Textile Fabrics / A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
84.
HOOD OF A COPE
Embroidered by hand in silks & gold, with the Adoration of the Magi, & bordered with green & yellow silk fringe. __Flemish 16 th . century.
SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM.
A DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE
Of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum .
BY THE VERY REV. DANIEL ROCK, D.D.
Published for the Science and Art Department of the Committee of Council on Education.
LONDON: CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193, PICCADILLY. 1870.
Like every other specific collection of art labour among the several such brought together within these splendid halls of the South Kensington Museum, this extensive one made from woven stuffs, tapestry, and needlework, is meant to have, like them, its own peculiar useful purposes. Here, at a glance, may be read the history of the loom of various times and in many lands. Here may be seen a proof of the onward march of trade and its consequent civilizing influences. Here we take a peep at the private female life in ages gone by, and learn how women, high-born and lowly, spent or rather ennobled many a day of life in needlework, not merely graceful but artistic. Here, in fine, in strict accordance with the intended industrial purposes of this public institution, artizans, designers, and workers in all kinds of embroidery, may gather many an useful lesson for their respective crafts, in the rare as well as beautiful samples set out before them.
The materials out of which the articles in this collection were woven, are severally wool, hemp, flax, cotton, silk, gold, and silver. The silken textures are in general wholly so; in many instances they are wrought up along with either cotton, or with flax; hence, in ancient documents, the distinction of “holosericum,” all silk, and “subsericum,” not all silk, or the warp—that is, the longitudinal threads—of cotton or flax, and the woof—that is the cross-threads of silk. Very seldom is the gold or the gilt silver woven into these textiles found upon them in a solid wire-drawn form, but almost always, after being flattened very thin, the precious metal was wound about a very small twist of cotton, or of flax, and thus became what we call gold thread. As a substitute for this, the Moors of Granada, and after them the Spaniards of that kingdom, employed strips of gilded parchment, as we shall have to notice.
Daniel Rock
---
TEXTILE FABRICS.
Contents of the Introduction.
INTRODUCTION.
Section I.—TEXTILES.
Silks had various names
In Woven Stuffs there are Styles nicely defined, and Epochs easily discernible.
Silks were distinguished through their colours and shades of colour.
Section II.—EMBROIDERY.
The Opus Anglicum, or English Work,
Our Old English Opus Consutum, or Cut Work,
Gold, and Silver gilt,
Glass,
Enamel.
Diapering,
Thread Embroidery,
Quilting,
Section III.—Tapestry.
Carpets
Section IV.
The Historian,
Section V.—Liturgy.
Section VI.—Artists and Manufacturers
Section VII.—SYMBOLISM.
Section VIII.—LITERATURE AND LANGUAGES.
Section IX.—HERALDRY,
Section X.—BOTANY AND ZOOLOGY.
CONTENTS OF THE BOOK.
ILLUSTRATIONS.
64.
78.
79.
84.
540.
623.
624.
625.
626.
627.
673.
675.
698.
699.
700.
701.
702.
703.
704.
705.
706.
707.
708.
709.
710.
711.
712.
713.
714.
715.
716.
717.
718.
719.
720.
721.
722.
723.
724.
725.
726.
727.
728.
729.
730.
731.
732.
750.
786.
792.
839.
840.
841.
842.
843.
882.
1029.
1030.
1031.
1032.
1033.
1035.
1037, 1037A.
1038.
1039.
1194, 1195.
1233.
1234.
1235.
1236.
1237.
1238.
1239.
1240.
1240A.
1241.
1242.
1243.
1244-1244C.
1245.
1246.
1247.
1248.
1249.
1250.
1251.
1252.
1252A.
1253.
1254.
1255.
1256.
1257.
1258.
1259.
1260.
1261.
1262.
1263.
1264.
1265.
1266.
1267.
1267A.
1268.
1269.
1270.
1271.
1272.
1273.
1274.
1275.
1276.
1277.
1278.
1279.
1280.
1281.
1282.
1283.
1283A.
1284.
1284A.
1285.
1286.
1287.
1288.
1289.
1289A.
1290.
1291.
1292.
1292A.
1293.
1294.
1295.
1296.
1297.
1298, 1298A.
1299.
1300.
1301.
1302.
1303.
1304.
1305.
1306, 1306A.
1307.
1308.
1309.
1310.
1311.
1312.
1313.
1314.
1315.
1316.
1317.
1318.
1319.
1320.
1321.
1322.
1323.
1324.
1325.
1326.
1327.
1328.
1329.
1330.
1331.
1332.
1333.
1334.
1335.
1336.
1337.
1338.
1339.
1340.
1341.
1342.
1343.
1344.
1345.
1346.
1347.
1348.
1349.
1350.
1351.
1351A.
1351B.
1352.
1352A.
1352B.
1353.
1354.
1355.
1356.
1357.
1358.
1359.
1360.
1361.
1362.
1363.
1364.
1365.
1366.
1367.
1368.
1369.
1370.
1371.
1372.
1372A.
1373.
1374.
1374A. ’64.
1375. ’64.
1376.
1375.
1376.
1378.
1379.
1547, 1548.
1622.
2864A.
2865.
4015.
4016.
4018.
4024.
4513-4516.
4045.
4046, 4046A.
4059.
4061.
4062.
4068.
4069.
4070.
4209, 4210.
4216.
4456.
4457.
4458.
4459.
4460.
4461.
4462.
4522.
4643.
4644.
4645.
4646.
4647.
4648.
4649.
4661.
4665.
4666.
4667.
4894.
5662.
5663.
5664, 5664A.
5665.
5666.
5670-5676.
5677.
5678.
5723.
5728.
5788.
5900.
5958.
6998.
7004.
7005.
7006.
7007.
7008.
7009.
7010.
7011.
7012.
7013.
7014.
7015.
7016.
7017.
7018.
7019.
7020.
7021.
7022.
7023.
7024.
7025.
7026.
7027.
7028.
7029.
7030.
7031.
7032.
7033.
7034.
7035.
7036.
7037.
7038.
7039.
7040.
7041.
7042.
7043.
7044.
7045.
7045A.
7046.
7047.
7048.
7049.
7050.
7051.
7052.
7053.
7054.
7055.
7056.
7057.
7058.
7059.
7060.
7061.
7062.
7063.
7064.
7064A.
7065.
7066.
7067.
7068.
7069.
7070.
7071.
7072.
7073.
7074.
7075.
7076.
7077.
7078.
7079.
7080.
7081.
7082.
7083.
7084.
7085.
7086.
7087.
7088.
7089.
7090.
7091.
7092.
7093.
7094.
7095.
7099.
7218.
7219.
7468.
7674.
7788.
7789, 7790.
7791.
7792.
7793.
7794.
7795.
7799.
7813.
7813A.
7833.
7900.
8128.
8226.
8227.
8228.
8229.
8230.
8231.
8231A.
8232.
8233.
8234.
8235.
8236.
8237.
8238.
8238A.
8239.
8240, 8240A.
8241.
8242.
8243.
8243A.
8244, 8244A.
8245.
8245A.
8246.
8247.
8248.
8249.
8250.
8250A.
8251.
8252.
8253.
8254.
8255.
8256.
8257.
8258.
8259.
8260.
8260A.
8260B, C.
8261.
8262.
8263.
8264.
8265.
8266.
8267.
8268.
8269.
8269A.
8270.
8271.
8272.
8273.
8274.
8275.
8276.
8277.
8278.
8279.
8279A.
8280.
8281.
8282.
8283.
8284.
8285.
8286.
8287.
8288.
8289.
8290.
8291, 8291A.
8292.
8293.
8294.
8295.
8296.
8297.
8298.
8299.
8300.
8301.
8302.
8303.
8304.
8305.
8306.
8307.
8308.
8309.
8310.
8311.
8312.
8313.
8314.
8315.
8316.
8317.
8318.
8319.
8320.
8321.
8322.
8323.
8324.
8325.
8326.
8327.
8328.
8329.
8330.
8331.
8332.
8333.
8334.
8335.
8336.
8837.
8338.
8338A.
8339.
8340.
8341.
8342.
8343.
8344.
8345.
8346.
8347.
8348.
8349.
8350.
8351.
8352.
8353.
8354.
8355.
8356.
8357.
8358.
8359.
8360.
8361.
8388.
8561.
8562.
8563.
8564.
8565.
8566.
8567.
8568.
8569.
8570.
8571.
8572.
8573.
8574.
8575.
8576.
8577, 8577A.
8578, 8578A.
8579.
8580.
8581.
8582.
8583.
8584.
8585.
8586.
8587.
8588.
8589.
8590.
8591, 8591A.
8592.
8593.
8594.
8595.
8596.
8597.
8598.
8599.
8600.
8601.
8602, 8602A, B, C, D, E.
8603.
8604.
8605.
8606.
8607.
8608.
8609.
8610.
8611.
8612.
8613.
8614.
8615.
8616.
8617.
8618.
8619.
8620.
8621.
8622, 8623.
8624.
8625.
8626.
8627.
8628, 8628A.
8629.
8630.
8631.
8632.
8633.
8634.
8635.
8636.
8637.
8638.
8639.
8640.
8641.
8642, 8642A.
8643.
8644.
8645.
8646.
8647.
8648.
8649.
8650.
8651.
8652.
8653-8661A.
8662.
8663.
8664.
8665.
8666.
8667.
8668.
8669.
8670.
8671.
8672.
8673.
8674.
8675.
8676.
8677.
8678.
8679.
8680, 8680A.
8681.
8682.
8683, 8684.
8685.
8686.
8687.
8688.
8689.
8690.
8691.
8692.
8693.
8694.
8695.
8696.
8697.
8698.
8699.
8700.
8701.
8702.
8703.
8704.
8705.
8706.
8707.
8708.
8709.
8710.
8711.
8712.
8713.
8942.
8973.
8975.
8976.
8977.
8978.
8979.
9047.
9047A.
9182.
197.
198.
1207.
524.
733.
902.
910.
911.
1296.
1297.
1465.
1480.
1481.
1483.
1582.
1683.
6733.
2442.
2443.
2807.
3818.
4331.
4650.
7926.
189.
8225.
7927 to 7930.
594.
8979.
THE BROOKE COLLECTION.
542. ’64.
858, 858B. ’64.
859, 859B. ’64.
860. ’64.
861. ’64.
862. ’64.
863. ’64.
864. ’64.
865. ’64.
866. ’64.
867. ’64.
868. ’64.
869. ’64.
870. ’64.
871. ’64.
872. ’64.
873. ’64.
874. ’64.
875. ’64.
876. ’64.
877. ’64.
878. ’64.
879. ’64.
880. ’64.
881, 881A. ’64.
882. ’64.
883. ’64.
884. ’64.
885. ’64.
886, 886A. ’64.
887, 887A. ’64.
888. ’64.
889. ’64.
890 ’64.
891. ’64.
892. ’64.
893. ’64.
894. ’64.
895. ’64.
896. ’64.
897. ’64.
898. ’64.
899. ’64.
900. ’64.
919. ’64.
932. ’64.
933. ’64.
934. ’64.
935. ’64.
966. ’64.
978. ’64.
979. ’64.
980. ’64.
981. ’64.
982, 982D. ’64.
983. ’64.
983A. ’64.
LENT BY HER MAJESTY AND THE BOARD OF WORKS.
INDEX I.
EUROPE.
ASIA.
AFRICA.
Transcriber's Notes
