The Jacquard Machine Analyzed and Explained / With an appendix on the preparation of jacquard cards, and practical hints to learners of jacquard designing
BY E. A. POSSELT, Head Master, Textile Department, Pennsylvania Museum and School of Industrial Art , No. 1336 Spring Garden Street.
With 230 Illustrations.
PHILADELPHIA, PA.: PUBLISHED UNDER THE AUSPICES OF THE SCHOOL. 1888.
Copyrighted, 1887, BY E. A. POSSELT.
Press of Dando Printing and Publishing Co., 34 S. Third St., Philadelphia.
Photo-Engravings by The Levytype Company, Philadelphia.
Very little has been written upon the Jacquard machine, and the fabrics produced by it; and nothing at all has been heretofore published in this country with regard to the machines and systems, as employed here.
Greatly assisted by the guidance, help and advice of Mr. T. C. Search, President of the Philadelphia Textile Association, and Vice-President and Chairman of the Committee of Instruction of the Pennsylvania Museum and School of Industrial Art, the author gives here the results of his practical experience on this subject, with a very detailed description of the methods of procedure with the Jacquard and accompanying machines, in the different branches of Textile Manufacture.
E. A. POSSELT.
Philadelphia, Pa. , 1888.
E. A. Posselt
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THE FRAME.
THE PERFORATED BOARD.
THE PLUNGER.
THE CATCHES.
THE GRIFFE.
THE HOOK.
THE NEEDLE.
THE BATTEN MOTION.
THE CYLINDER.
THE HAMMER.
THE NEEDLE-BOARD.
THE JACQUARD CARDS.
The Comber-board and Methods of Figuring for it.
Comber-boards Made of a Solid Piece of Material.
The Changing of Solid Comber-boards for Different Textures.
Comber-boards made in Strips and Adjusted afterwards in a Frame.
Divisions of the Comber-board.
Heddles for the Jacquard Harness.
The “Leasing” of the Harness.
1. The Straight-Through Tie-up.
1st. The Jacquard Harness threaded on the machine in the direction from Front to Rear.
2d. The Jacquard Harness threaded on the machine from Rear to Front.
3d. The Straight-Through Tie-up on the English System.
II. Straight-Through Tie-up for Repeated Effects, in one Repeat of the Design.
III. Straight-Through Tie-up of a Jacquard Loom having Front Harness Attached.
IV. The Centre Tie-up.
V. “Straight-Through” and “Point” Tie-ups Combined.
Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.
Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.
Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.
Straight-Through and Point Tie-ups Combined.
VII. Tying-up a Jacquard Harness for Figuring Part of the Design with an Extra Warp, (part for Two Sections, part for Single).
VIII. The Straight-Through Tie-up in Three Sections.
IX. The Point Tie-up in Three Sections.
X. Combination Tie-up in Two Sections. (“Tie-up Amalgamate.”)
XI. The Straight-Through Tie-up in Four Sections.
XII. Tying-up of Jacquard Looms with Compound Harness attached.
XIII.—Tying-up Jacquard Looms for Gauze Fabrics.
I. Double Lift Single Cylinder Jacquard Machine.
II. Double Lift Double Cylinder Jacquard Machine.
III. The Substitution of Tail-cords for Hooks.
I. The Straight-Through Tie-up for Ingrain Carpets.
II. The Point Tie-up for Ingrain Carpets.
I. Dobby Card Punching Machines.
II. Piano Card Stamping Machines.
The Stamping of Cards.
III. Repeating Jacquard Pattern Cards by the Positive Action Repeater.
A. Lacing of Jacquard Cards by Hand.
B. Lacing of Jacquard Cards by Machine.
Practical Use of the Heavy Square in Designing Paper.
Selection of Designing Paper for Single Cloth.
Selection of Designing Paper For Double Cloth.
Selection of Designing Paper for Two-ply Ingrain Carpets.
Selection of the Proper Brush for the Different □ Designing Papers.
Colors used For Painting Textile Designs.
Preservation of Textile Designs.
Methods of Setting the Figures.
Size of Sketch Required.
Enlarging and Reducing Figures for Sketches.
Transferring of the Sketch to the Squared Designing Paper.
Outlining in Squares.
Rules for “Outlining in Squares” Inside or Outside the Drawing Outline.
Illustration of a Sketch.
Design for Damask Fabrics to be Executed on a Jacquard Loom, with Compound Harness Attached.
Designs for Two-ply Ingrain Carpet.
Designs for Dressgoods Figured with Extra Warp (one end Ground, one end Figure), and Executed on the Double Section Tie-up.
Designs for Figured Pile Fabrics.
The Shading of Textile Fabrics by the Weave.
