Perfumes and their preparation
CONTAINING
COMPLETE DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING HANDKERCHIEF PERFUMES, SMELLING-SALTS, SACHETS, FUMIGATING PASTILS; PREPARATIONS FOR THE CARE OF THE SKIN, THE MOUTH, THE HAIR; COSMETICS, HAIR DYES, AND OTHER TOILET ARTICLES.
WITH A
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF AROMATIC SUBSTANCES; THEIR NATURE, TESTS OF PURITY, AND WHOLESALE MANUFACTURE.
BY GEORGE WILLIAM ASKINSON, Dr. Chem., MANUFACTURER OF PERFUMERY.
Translated from the Third German Edition by ISIDOR FURST. (WITH CORRECTIONS AND ADDITIONS BY SEVERAL EXPERTS.)
Illustrated with 32 Engravings.
Copyrighted, 1892, by NORMAN W. HENLEY & CO.
The great progress which the art of perfumery has made during recent times is due to several causes, the chief one of which is fully realized only by the manufacturer on a large scale, who stands, as it were, behind the scenes and has access to facts and information concerning the materials he uses, which are not so easily accessible to the dilettante in perfumery, or remain altogether unknown to the latter. This important factor is the advance in our knowledge of the physical and chemical properties of the several substances used in perfumery, whereby we can better discriminate between the genuine and the spurious, the choicest and the inferior, thus insuring, at the very start, a satisfactory result, instead of being compelled to resort to wasteful experimentation and empiricism. A better knowledge has also been gained of the sources of the commercial varieties of many of the crude products, and a better insight into the conditions affecting their qualities or properties. A more exhaustive study of the proximate principles of many of the essential oils has thrown an entirely new light upon this heretofore obscure class of bodies, placing into our hands new products of definite chemical composition, unvarying in physical properties, and many of them valuable additions to the perfumer’s stock of ingredients. Synthetic chemistry has also added to the list of materials required by the perfumer, and is surely going to add many more to it hereafter. Though some of these, like the new artificial musk, are not yet in a condition to enter into serious competition with the natural products, yet it is merely a question of time when the latter need no longer be depended upon. The increasing demands for the staple articles used by the perfumer have also caused a large increase in the cultivation of many important plants in various parts of the world, and have led to the establishment of new plantations, in some cases to such an extent that the commercial relations have been entirely revolutionized, new territories producing larger crops and a finer product than the old home of the plant. The exploration of hitherto unknown or imperfectly known countries has also largely added to the perfumer’s art, and is likely to continue to do this for a long time to come, since it is now well known that vast districts, more particularly in tropical Africa, are inhabited by a flora abounding in new odoriferous plants.
George William Askinson
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PREFACE.
CONTENTS.
The Division of Aromatic Substances According to their Origin.
The Chemical Constitution of Vegetable Aromatic Substances.
Hedyosmum Flowers.
Origanum.
Volkameria.
Ylang-Ylang.
Hyraceum.
A. Chemicals used for the Extraction of Aromatic Substances.
B. Chemical Products used for the Preparation of Perfumes.
Glycerin.
C. The Colors used in Perfumery.
Pressure.
Distillation.
Maceration (Infusion).
Absorption or Enfleurage.
Extraction.
The Yield of Essential Oils.
Oil of Cassie.
Oil of Anise
Oil of Bergamot
Oil of Bitter Almond (Oleum Amygdale Amaræ),
Oil of Cajeput (Oleum Cajuputi)
Oil of Calamus (Oleum Calami).
Oil of Chamomile (Oleum Chamomillæ).
Camphor (Camphora).
Oil of Cascarilla
Oil of Cassia (Oleum Cassiæ)
Oil of Cedar.
Oil of Citron.
Oil of Lemon (Oleum Limonis, Oleum Citri)
Oil of Citronella.
Oil of Lemon-Grass.
Oil of Coriander (Oleum Coriandri)
Oil of Lilac
Oil of Geranium.
Oil of Heliotrope.
Oil of Elder (Oleum Sambuci).
Oil of Jasmine,
Oil of Cherry-Laurel
Oil of Culilaban (Oleum Culilavani)
Oil of Caraway (Oleum Cari)
Oil of Lavender (Oleum Lavandulæ).
Oil of Wallflower
Oil of Lily
Oil of Lemon (Oleum Limonis),
Oil of Sweet Bay (Laurel) (Oleum Lauri)
Oil of Magnolia,
Oil of Marjoram (Oleum Majoranæ).
Oil of Melissa.
Oils of Mint.
Oils of Mace and Nutmeg (Oleum Macidis and Oleum Myristicæ).
Oil of Myrtle.
Oil of Narcissus.
Oil of Pink,
Oil of Clove (Oleum Caryophylli).
Oil of Orange Flowers (Oleum Naphæ, Oleum Neroli),
Oil of Orange,
Oil of Patchouly.
Oil of Syringa.
Oil of Allspice,
Oil of Sweet Pea
Oil of Rue (Oleum Rutæ).
Oil of Reseda (Mignonette).
Oil of Rose (Oleum Rosæ),
Oil of Rhodium.
Oil of Rosemary (Oleum Rosmarini).
Oil of Sage (Oleum Salviæ),
Oil of Santal (Oleum Santali).
Oil of Sassafras (Oleum Sassafras)
Oil of Meadow-sweet (Oleum Spirææ).
Oil of Star-Anise (Oleum Anisi Stellati; Oleum Illicii)
Oils of Thyme (Oleum Thymi).
Oil of Vanilla,
Oil of Violet
Oil of Verbena
Oil of Vetiver (Oleum Ivaranchusæ),
Oil of Wintergreen (Oleum Gaultheriæ).
Oil of Ylang-Ylang (Oleum Unonæ odoratissimæ)
Oil of Hyssop (Oleum Hyssopi)
Oils of Cinnamon (Oleum Cinnamomi).
Oil of Turpentine (Oleum Terebinthinæ),
A. Adulteration of Essential Oils with Other Essential Oils.
B. Adulteration of Essential Oils with Fixed Oils.
C. Adulteration with Alcohol.
D. Adulteration with Paraffin, Spermaceti, or Wax.
Extract of Cassie (Extrait de Cassie).
Tincture of Ambergris (Extrait d’Ambregris).
Tincture of Benzoin (Extrait de Benjoin).
Essence of Bergamot (Extrait de Bergamotte).
Tincture of Castor (Extrait de Castoreum).
Tincture of Musk Seed (Extrait d’Ambrette).
Essence of Bitter Almond (Extrait d’Amande).
Essence of Calamus (Extrait de Glaïeul).
Essence of Cedar (Extrait de Cèdre).
Tincture of Cedar (Extrait de Bois de Cèdre).
Essence of Citronella.
Essence of Lemon Grass (Extrait de Schoenanthe).
Extract of Lilac (Extrait de Lilas).
Essence of Geranium.
Extract of Cucumber (Extrait de Concombres).
Extract of Heliotrope (Extrait de Héliotrope).
Extract of Jasmine (Extrait de Jasmin).
Essence of Lavender (Extrait de Lavande).
Extract of Wallflower (Extrait de Giroflé).
Extract of Lily (Extrait de Lys).
Essence of Lemon (Extrait de Limon).
Extract of Magnolia (Extrait de Magnolia).
Essence of Peppermint (Extrait de Menthe).
Tincture of Musk (Extrait de Musc).
Extract of Myrtle (Extrait de Myrte).
Extract of Narcissus.
Essence of Clove (Extrait de Clous de Girofles).
Extract of Pink (Extrait d’Œillet).
Extract of Orange Flower or Neroli (Extrait de Fleurs d’Oranges, Extrait de Néroli).
Essence of Patchouly (Extrait de Patchouli).
Tincture of Balsam of Peru (Extrait de Pérou).
Essence of Allspice (Extrait de Piment).
Extract of Sweet Pea (Extrait de Pois de senteur).
Extract of Reseda (Extrait de Mignonette).
Essence or Extract of Rose (Extraits de Rose).
Extract of Santal (Extrait de Santal).
Tincture of Storax (Essence de Styrax).
Tincture of Tolu (Extrait de Baume de Tolou).
Tincture of Tonka (Extrait de Tonka).
Extract of Tuberose (Extrait de Tuberose).
Tincture of Vanilla (Extrait de Vanille).
Extract of Violet (Extrait de Violette).
Tincture of Orris Root (Extrait d’Iris).
Extract of Verbena (Extrait de Verveine).
Extract of Verbena A.
Extract of Verbena B.
Extract of Volcameria (Extrait de Volcameria).
Essence of Vetiver (Extrait de Vétiver).
Extract of Wintergreen (Extrait de Gaulthérie).
Tincture of Civet (Extrait de Civette).
Tincture of Cinnamon (Extrait de Canelle).
True Perfumes.
Preparations for the Care of the Skin.
Preparations for the Care of the Hair.
Cosmetics.
Bouquet de l’Alhambra.
Extrait d’Ambre, I.
Extrait d’Ambre, II.
Bouquet de l’Amour.
Baisers du Printemps (Spring Kisses).
Eau de Berlin.
Buckingham Flowers.
Bouquet d’Andorre.
Bouquet du Bosphore.
Bouquet des Chasseurs.
Bouquet de la Cour.
Bouquet de Chypre.
Bouquet des Délices.
Bouquet de Fleurs (Nosegay).
Convallaria (Lily of the Valley, Fleurs de Mai).
Couronne de Fleurs (Garland of Flowers).
Court Bouquet.
Esterhazy Bouquets.
A. Bouquet d’Esterhazy (French formula).
B. Bouquet Esterhazy (German formula).
Cèdre du Libanon (Cedar).
Fiori d’Italia.
Lilac (Extrait de Lilas).
Essence des Bouquets, A (Ess. Bouquet).
Ess. Bouquet, B.
Ess. Bouquet, C.
Florida.
Bouquet de Flore.
Heliotrope, A (Extrait de Héliotrope).
Heliotrope, B.
New-Mown Hay.
Royal Horse-Guard’s Bouquet.
Bouquet d’Irlande.
Hovenia.
Huntsman’s Nosegay.
Bouquet du Japon.
Eau Japonaise.
Jockey Club.
Jonquille (Extrait de Jonquille).
Kiss me Quick.
Bouquet Cosmopolite.
Cologne Water (Eau de Cologne).
Lavender Perfumes.
Eau de Leipsic.
Wallflower (Extrait de Giroflé).
Lily (Extrait de Lys).
Eau de Lisbonne.
Magnolia (Extrait de Magnolia).
Lily of the Valley.
Lily of the Valley Extract.
Bouquet a la Maréchale.
A la Mode.
A. Eau de Mille Fleurs.
B. Eau de Mille Fleurs.
C. Eau de Mille Fleurs a Palmarose.
Fleurs de Montpellier.
Fleurs des Champs.
Huile de Mille Fleurs.
Musk (Extrait de Musc).
Mousseline.
Myrtle (Extrait de Myrthe).
Narcissus (Extrait de Narcisse).
Navy’s Nosegay.
New-Mown Hay.
Pink (Extrait d’Œillet).
Essence of Sweet Pea.
Polyanthus.
Eau du Portugal.
Queen Victoria’s Perfume.
Patchouly (Extrait de Patchouli).
Essence of Reseda.
Rondeletia Odoratissima.
Royal Nosegay.
Rose Odors.
Spring Nosegay.
Suave.
Heliotrope Bouquet (Fleurs Solsticiales).
Bouquet de Stamboul.
Syringa.
Tulipe Odoriférante.
Hungarian Water (Eau Hongroise).
Bouquet de Virginie.
Violet (Violettes).
Verbena A (Extrait de Verveine).
Verbena B.
Extrait de Verveine C.
Violettes des Montagnes.
Volcameria.
Forest Breeze (Pine-Needle Odor.)
West End.
Wintergreen.
Flowers of the Isle of Wight.
Yacht Club.
Ylang-Ylang.
Appendix.
A. Ammoniacal Perfumes.
B. Acid Perfumes.
FORMULAS FOR TOILET VINEGARS.
Ceylon Sachet Powder.
Cyprian Sachet Powder.
Field Flower Sachet Powder.
Frangipanni Sachet Powder.
Heliotrope Sachet Powder.
Indian Sachet Powder.
Lavender Sachet Powder.
Marshal Sachet Powder.
Mille Fleurs Sachet Powder.
Muslin Sachet Powder.
Olla Podrida.
Patchouly Powder.
Persian Sachet Powder.
Portugal Powder.
Potpourri.
Rose Sachet Powder, A.
Rose Sachet Powder, B.
Santal Powder,
Violet Sachet Powder.
Violet Sachet Powder.
Verbena Sachet Powder.
Vetiver Sachet Powder.
C. Fumigating Ribbons
Fumigating Waters and Vinegars (Eaux Encensoires, Vinaigres Encensoires).
Fumigating Powders (Poudres Encensoires).
APPENDIX.
Glycerin.
Emulsions.
A. Emulsions.
Olivine.
B. Meals and Pastes.
C. Vegetable Milk.
D. Cold-Creams and Lip Salves.
APPENDIX.
A. Pomades.
Beef-Marrow Pomade (Pomade à Moëlle de Bœuf).
B. Hair Oils.
A. Tooth Pastes.
B. Tooth Powders.
C. Tooth Tinctures (Lotions) and Mouth Washes (Essences Dentifrices).
A. White Skin Cosmetics.
B. Red Skin Cosmetics (Rouges).
C. Face Lotions.
D. Toilet Powders.
Kaloderm.
A. Hair Washes.
B. Hair Tonics.
A. Simple Hair Dyes.
B. Double Hair Dyes.
Melanogène.
Crinochrom.
C. Depilatories.
A. Wax Pomades.
B. Beard Wax.
C. Bandolines.
D. Brillantines.
Yellow Colors.
Red Colors.
Green Colors.
Blue Colors.
Violet
Brown
Black
INDEX.
Transcriber's Notes
