Roundabout to Moscow: An Epicurean Journey
Transcriber’s Note: Obvious typographic errors have been corrected.
AN EPICUREAN JOURNEY
BY JOHN BELL BOUTON AUTHOR OF “ROUND THE BLOCK”
NEW YORK D. APPLETON AND COMPANY 1887
Copyright, 1887, By D. APPLETON AND COMPANY.
TO THE SYMPATHETIC COMRADE IN THESE WANDERINGS, MY WIFE.
If any reader of this book happens to be carrying about a heavy pack of fine old English prejudices, I beg that he or she will drop it before entering upon the eleven chapters relating to Russia. The best preparative for crossing the Russian frontier is to throw out of the carriage-window every English volume with which the tourist has beguiled the way in the vain hope of forming correct impressions of the country ahead.
Englishmen can not be trusted to treat Russia fairly. John Bull hates Ivanovitch. With him the Russian is always a Tartar or a Cossack. Though these terms are not, in fact, opprobrious—since the Tartar of to-day is the model business man of Russia, industrious, faithful, highly respected, and the Cossack preserves none of his ancient traits but an excessive fondness for horses, a martial spirit, and fervent patriotism—they are slurring words in the English sense.
John Bell Bouton
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ROUNDABOUT TO MOSCOW
PREFACE.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I. BY TRAIN DE LUXE FROM PARIS TO NICE—THE MONTE CARLO GAMES.
CHAPTER II. OLDPAINT, COCKSPUR, AND NORTH ADAMS AT THE CASINO.
CHAPTER III. A BAD NIGHT IN GENOA HARBOR.
CHAPTER IV. ROME—GOOD-FRIDAY AND EASTER.
CHAPTER V. CUTTING A KING—MARGHERITA, QUEEN OF HEARTS.
CHAPTER VI. NAPLES—SORRENTO—CAPRI—PÆSTUM.
CHAPTER VII. FRESH DIGGINGS AT POMPEII—VESUVIUS “WORKING”—THE TELL-TALE SEISMOGRAPH—SOLFATARA.
CHAPTER VIII. ITALIAN BEGGARS—A NEGLECTED GRAVE—THE BLUE-GUM TREE AND MALARIA—PERUGIA—ETRUSCAN TOMBS.
CHAPTER IX. FLORENCE—BOLOGNA—COMO.
CHAPTER X. PEASANT-GIRLS—NIGHTINGALES—ISOLA BELLA—SAN CARLO BORROMEO IN COPPER.
CHAPTER XI. THE SIMPLON IN JUNE—VISPACH TO ZERMATT—THE MATTERHORN—A FINE VIEW FROM THE SNOWS OF GORNER-GRAT.
CHAPTER XII. EARLY ALPINE FLOWERS—A WEDDING-FEAST—THE RHÔNE VALLEY AND GLACIER—FURCA PASS.
CHAPTER XIII. AVALANCHES ON THE JUNGFRAU—THE GUIDES OF GRINDELWALD.
CHAPTER XIV. EXCELSIOR AND THE MAIDEN.
CHAPTER XV. AN ENGLISH ADMIRER OF THE “AMERICAN LANGUAGE.”
CHAPTER XVI. PREHISTORIC LAKE-DWELLERS—AN ISLAND INN AND ITS MEMORIES.
CHAPTER XVII. CARLSBAD—PRAGUE—DRESDEN.
CHAPTER XVIII. BERLIN—ITS MILITARY ATMOSPHERE.
CHAPTER XIX. ST. PETERSBURG IN JULY.
CHAPTER XX. THE FIRST DROSCHKY-RIDE—SUNSET AT THE ISLANDS—EARLY MORNING VIEWS OF THE NEVSKOI PROSPEKT.
CHAPTER XXI. GRAND-DUKE ALEXIS—THE AMERICAN MINISTER AND HIS CHASSEUR—RUSSIAN PRESS CENSORSHIP—AN INDIGNANT BRITON—UNDISCOVERABLE NIHILISTS.
CHAPTER XXII. THE HOLY CITY OF RUSSIA.
CHAPTER XXIII. THE MOSCOW FOUNDLING ASYLUM.
CHAPTER XXIV. RUSSIAN EPICURISM IN TEA—THE JOLTAI TCHAI, OR YELLOW-FLOWER BRAND.
CHAPTER XXV. A HUNT FOR MALACHITE AND LAPIS-LAZULI IN THE GOSTINNOI DVOR.
CHAPTER XXVI. THE PEACOCK-FEATHER MYSTERY—MANAYUNK AND THE OLD MASTERS—HIS FRUITLESS SEARCH FOR THE KREMLIN—THE MOSCOW RAG-FAIR—THE PETROVSKY PALACE—DINING IN THE GROUNDS.
CHAPTER XXVII. A COMEDY OF PASSPORTS—MYTHICAL POLICE ESPIONAGE.
CHAPTER XXVIII. SUMMER WEATHER IN RUSSIA—ST. PETERSBURG AND MOSCOW ENOUGH FOR SIGHT-SEERS—M. KATKOFF AND HIS GAZETTE—TSAR AND PEOPLE—REPUBLICAN POSSIBILITIES OF THE COSSACK.
CHAPTER XXIX. RUSSIAN FINLAND—STOCKHOLM—THE LARGEST KNOWN METEORITE—THE DJURGARDEN.
CHAPTER XXX. BY RAIL TO CHRISTIANIA—FARE ON THE ROAD—NORWAY’S CAPITAL—THE VIKING-SHIP—AN INLAND TOUR.
CHAPTER XXXI. A BABY KUDSK—TYRI-FIORD—HÖNEFOS—LAKE SPIRELLEN—DINNER AT A SANITARIUM.
CHAPTER XXXII. OMNIPOTENT KRONER—THE FAMILY PARLOR AT ODNÆS—RANDS AND CHRISTIANIA FIORDS.
CHAPTER XXXIII. THE GOTHENBURG WHALE—THREE KINGS IN A BUNCH—NORTHERN OUT-DOOR LIFE—A STUDY OF WINDMILLS.
CHAPTER XXXIV. DIAMOND-CUTTING AT AMSTERDAM.
APPENDIX.
CONSTITUTIONAL GOVERNMENT FOR RUSSIA.
