To Cuba and Back
The steamer is to sail at one P.M.; and, by half-past twelve, her decks are full, and the mud and snow of the pier are well trodden by men and horses. Coaches drive down furiously, and nervous passengers put their heads out to see if the steamer is off before her time; and on the decks, and in the gangways, inexperienced passengers run against everybody, and mistake the engineer for the steward, and come up the same stairs they go down, without knowing it. In the dreary snow, the newspaper vendors cry the papers, and the book vendors thrust yellow covers into your face— Reading for the voyage, sir—five hundred pages, close print! And that being rejected, they reverse the process of the Sibyl—with Here's another, sir, one thousand pages, double columns. The great beam of the engine moves slowly up and down, and the black hull sways at its fasts. A motley group are the passengers. Shivering Cubans, exotics that have taken slight root in the hothouses of the Fifth Avenue, are to brave a few days of sleet and cold at sea, for the palm trees and mangoes, the cocoas and orange trees, they will be sitting under in six days, at farthest. There are Yankee shipmasters going out to join their cotton wagons at New Orleans and Mobile, merchants pursuing a commerce that knows no rest and no locality; confirmed invalids advised to go to Cuba to die under mosquito nets and be buried in a Potter's Field; and other invalids wisely enough avoiding our March winds; and here and there a mere vacationmaker, like myself.
Captain Bullock is sure to sail at the hour; and at the hour he is on the paddle-box, the fasts are loosed, the warp run out, the crew pull in on the warp on the port quarter, and the head swings off. No word is spoken, but all is done by signs; or, if a word is necessary, a low clear tone carries it to the listener. There is no tearing and rending escape of steam, deafening and distracting all, and giving a kind of terror to a peaceful scene; but our ship swings off, gathers way, and enters upon her voyage, in a quiet like that of a bank or counting-room, almost under a spell of silence.
Richard Henry Dana
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TO CUBA AND BACK
CONTENTS
FROM MANHATTAN TO EL MORRO
HAVANA: First Glimpses (I)
HAVANA: First Glimpses (2)
HAVANA: Prisoners and Priests
HAVANA: Olla Podrida
HAVANA: A Social Sunday
HAVANA: Belén and the Jesuits
MATANZAS
TO LIMONAR BY TRAIN
A SUGAR PLANTATION: The Labor
A SUGAR PLANTATION: The Life
FROM PLANTATION TO PLANTATION
MATANZAS AND ENVIRONS
REFLECTIONS VIA RAILROAD
HAVANA: Social, Religious and Judicial Tidbits
HAVANA: Worship, Etiquette and Humanitarianism
HAVANA: Hospital and Prison
HAVANA: Bullfight
HAVANA: More Manners and Customs
HAVANA: Slaves, Lotteries, Cockfights and Filibusters
A SUMMING-UP: Society, Politics, Religion, Slavery, Resources and Reflections
LEAVE-TAKING