CARE OF HARNESS.
The estimated life of a set of artillery harness is seven years.
Harness, after being used, must be carefully wiped and cleaned; if possible, this is done before taking it off the horse; otherwise it is put in good order at the earliest practicable moment, and covered with the sack. Straps and leather parts generally are kept soft and supple; trace-chains and iron parts free from rust.
Collars and saddles will be aired and kept perfectly clean.
The greatest care must be exercised in keeping the collar where it bears against the horse in perfect order.
Harness should be oiled two or three times a year if necessary.
The best oil for this use is neat's-foot oil, the unctuous property of which is particularly suitable for preserving the suppleness of the leather; this oil contains no siccative part, and may be used unpurified. Four pints and a half will oil the harness of a team of three pairs. To keep it from becoming rancid, use 1 part kerosene to 4 parts neat's-foot.
Before using the oil every part of the leather must be perfectly cleaned and washed, without letting the water soak deeply into the leather; while still damp blacken with dye those places which have become red; when the leather begins to dry, oil it, spreading the oil on with a sponge or thick, soft brush. When neat's-foot oil cannot be had, pure fish-oil may be used, but it must be carefully ascertained that it does not contain any siccative matter, which would make it injurious.
Other oils may be usefully employed, as whale-oil, when they can be gotten pure; this is not easily done, it being hard to detect the frauds.
Vegetable oils are very hurtful.
As good oil cannot always be had, a mixture of three quarters of melted lard and one quarter of whale-oil may be used in emergencies; it should be spread over the leather with a piece of woollen cloth, and well rubbed in.
Blacking for harness and dressings are given under "Mountain Artillery," p. 61. The prepared harness-oil manufactured at Rock Island Arsenal is packed in tins 4½ × 4½ × 8½ inches, each containing 6 pounds of oil. Twenty-five tins are packed in a box.
Kerosene is good for cleaning rust from iron parts, and then use sperm-oil.
To paint metal parts, use asphaltum paint. Before applying care should be taken that every particle of rust is removed; then give two light coats, allowing plenty of time for the first coat to dry. Colgate's black harness soap and Frank Miller's harness soap No. 2½ are excellent for keeping harness clean and soft with little trouble.
Frank Miller's harness soap and asphaltum paint can be obtained from the Ordnance Department.
Recent orders from the War Department forbid the use of any dressings other than those furnished by the Ordnance Department.
In the field there will not usually be much time or many materials available for cleaning harness. Rust should be cleaned off ironwork with sand, kerosene, etc., the ironwork being then oiled. Leather should be kept soft and pliable by having a small quantity of soft soap, if proper oil be not on hand, worked into it, mud and sweat being first removed with as little water as possible.
The blanket must be kept clean, and folded to lie perfectly smooth on the horse's back. Inspect the collar and see that its bearing surface is free from dirt, dried hair, etc., before putting it on the horse, and at every opportunity. The necessity for repairs will be reported immediately, and the repairs will be made by the saddler at the earliest practicable moment.
In garrison harness is wiped off after each drill, and is carefully cleaned once a weak. A good driver should clean his harness thoroughly in from 1 to 1½ hours, especially if provided with a trestle on which to spread it out. First remove all dust and dirt with a damp cloth, disconnecting all of the parts for that purpose. Then apply either soap or dressing with a sponge, wetting the sponge with water when using the soap.
Harness-pegs.—Harness-pegs for each pair are arranged in the walls of the harness-room or in the heel-posts of the stalls. There should be three pegs for each double set of harness, the upper one for the pole-yoke, with the martingales attached, the bridles, and collars; the next for the off harness, and the lower one for the near harness.