A guide to modern cookery

by A. Escoffier

BEEF

[1043—FILLET OF BEEF (Relevé)]

Fillet of beef for a Relevé may consist either of the whole piece, trimmed, studded, or larded, or a more or less large piece cut from the whole, and treated after one of the methods suited to the whole fillet. The fillet may be braised, [poëled], or roasted; but the last two modes of preparation suit it best, as it is generally preferred underdone and somewhat red towards the centre.

The garnishes for a Relevé of fillet of beef are as numerous as they are varied; and, as they are applicable not only to fillet of beef but to all Relevés of butcher’s meat, I give them here in preference, since fillet of beef may be considered the choicest of Relevés.

[1044—FILETS DE BŒUF ANDALOUSE]

Having removed all the connective tissue from the fillet, lard it with thin strips of bacon, and [poële] or roast it. Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it with:—(1) Some grilled half-capsicums, filled with rice à la grecque (No. [2253]); (2) roundels of egg-plant, two inches in diameter and one inch thick, hollowed out to form cases, fried in oil, and garnished with [concassed] tomatoes tossed in oil. Arrange the half-capsicums and the egg-plant alternately round the fillet, and place a grilled [chipolata] sausage between each.

Sauce to be sent separately.—The gravy taken from the [poëling]-stock, strained, cleared of all grease, and thickened.

[1045—FILET DE BŒUF BOUQUETIERE]

Having larded the fillet and [poëled] or roasted it, set it on a long dish and surround it with:—(1) Small heaps of carrots and turnips, turned by means of a small grooved spoon, and cooked in consommé; (2) small heaps of little potatoes turned to the shape of olives and cooked in butter; (3) small heaps of [354] ]peas and of French beans, cut into lozenges and cohered with butter; (4) five bunches of cauliflower.

Arrange these different products in such wise as to vary their colours and throw them into relief.

Serve the gravy of the fillet separately, after having cleared it of all grease and strained it.

[1046—FILET DE BŒUF CAMARGO]

Trim the fillet; suppress the long muscle lying on its thicker side (Fr. chaîne), and open the meat lengthwise from the same side. Withdraw the meat from the inside of the fillet so as to leave a wall of meat only one-half inch thick all round. Finely chop the withdrawn meat and combine with it, per lb., little by little, from four to five tablespoonfuls of cream and four oz. of fresh foie gras. Season with salt and pepper, rectify the consistence of the paste, and add thereto, per lb., two oz. of chopped truffles.

Fill the hollow fillet with this forcemeat, thereby returning it to its original shape, and stud its top surface with pointed pieces of truffle one inch long by one-quarter inch wide, stuck into the meat aslant. In order to facilitate this operation, bore the meat, before the insertion of the pieces of truffles, by means of a small knife.

Now cover the fillet with slices of bacon and string it laterally, leaving a space of one inch between each strand.

[Poële] the meat carefully, and take care that the forcemeat inside be well, but not over-done. This may be ascertained by thrusting a braiding needle into the thickest part of the fillet, as soon as the meat seems resisting and elastic to the touch. If the needle withdraws clean, the fillet is ready.

Now glaze it, after having cut away the string and removed the slices of bacon; dish it, and surround it with the following garnish:—Small tartlet-crusts garnished by means of noodles with cream; a slice of foie gras stamped out with a round cutter and tossed in butter, upon the noodles; and a fine slice of truffle on the foie gras.

Sauce to be sent to the table separately.—The reduced [poëling]-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease, and added to a Périgueux sauce.

[1047—FILET DE BŒUF CHÂTELAINE]

Lard the fillet, [poële] it, and glaze it just before dishing up. Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish:—(1) Medium-sized artichoke-bottoms garnished with thick Soubise; (2) fine, peeled chestnuts cooked in the [355] ][poëling]-liquor; (3) small heaps of lightly browned potatoes, cooked in butter at the last moment.

Sauce to be sent separately.—The reduced [poëling]-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease and added to a Madeira sauce.

[1048—FILET DE BŒUF CLAMART]

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish and surround it with:—(1) Little tartlet-crusts garnished with peas, prepared à la Française (No. [2193]), combined with the [ciseled] lettuce used in their cooking-process, and cohered with butter; (2) small quoits of “Pommes Macaire” (No. [2228]). Arrange the tartlet-crusts and the quoits alternately.

Sauce to be sent separately.—The gravy slightly thickened.

[1049—FILET DE BŒUF DAUPHINE]

Lard the fillet and [poële] it.

Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish of potato croquettes à la Dauphine, moulded to the shape of corks, and fried just before dishing up.

Sauce to be sent separately.—Pale half-glaze with Madeira.

[1050—FILET DE BŒUF DUBARRY]

Lard the fillet with bacon, and roast it.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with small heaps of cauliflower moulded to the shape of balls, coated with Mornay sauce, besprinkled with grated cheese, and put in the oven for the [gratin] to form just in time for the dishing up.

Send a thickened gravy to the table separately.

[1051—FILET DE BŒUF DUCHESSE]

Either roast or [poële] the larded fillet. If it be [poëled], glaze it at the last moment.

Set it on a long dish and surround it with potatoes à la Duchesse (the shape of which may be varied according to fancy), lightly browned and coloured in the oven for a few minutes before the dishing.

Sauce to be sent separately.—Half-glaze with Madeira.

[1052—FILET DE BŒUF FINANCIÈRE]

[Poële] the larded fillet.

Glaze it at the last moment and set it on a long dish.

Surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) quenelles of ordinary forcemeat; (2) grooved and cooked button-mushroom heads; (3) cocks’ combs and kidneys; (4) turned and [blanched] olives. Each garnish should be placed on the dish in distinct heaps.

[356]
]Cover the garnish with a little financière sauce, and send the same sauce separately.

[1053—FILET DE BŒUF GASTRONOME]

Insert truffles, cut to the shape of ordinary larding-bacon, into the fillet, and set the latter to [marinade] for four or five hours in one-quarter pint of Madeira.

This done, thoroughly wipe it; cover it with slices of bacon, and braise it in Madeira. When about to serve it, remove the slices of bacon; glaze it slightly, and set it on a long dish.

Surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) large and thick slices of truffle, cooked in a fine [mirepoix] with champagne; (2) fine chestnuts cooked in consommé and glazed; (3) fine cocks’ kidneys, rolled in pale, thin meat-glaze; (4) noodles tossed in butter. These different garnishes should be arranged in alternate heaps, and connected by means of medium-sized truffles cooked in Madeira.

Sauce to be sent separately.—Half-glaze combined with the cooking-liquor of the truffles, strained through linen and reduced to two-thirds.

[1054—FILET DE BŒUF GODARD]

Lard the fillet with alternate strips of bacon and salted tongue, and [poële] it. Glaze it a few minutes before serving; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) quenelles of ordinary forcemeat with chopped mushrooms and truffles added thereto, moulded by means of a coffee-spoon, and poached just before dishing up; (2) turned and cooked button-mushroom heads; (3) glazed lamb sweet-breads; (4) cocks’ combs and kidneys; (5) truffles fashioned like olives.

Slightly coat these garnishes, which should be arranged in heaps, with sauce; finish the dish with four oval quenelles decked with tongue and truffle, and place one of these at either end and side of the dish.

Sauce to be sent separately.—A Godard sauce combined with the cooking-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease and reduced.

[1055—FILET DE BŒUF HONGROISE]

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish and surround it with a garnish consisting of medium-sized onions, cooked in white consommé, and glazed in butter at the last minute.

Sauce to be sent separately.—Thin Soubise with paprika.

[357]
][1056—FILET DE BŒUF JAPONAISE]

Lard the fillet and [poële] it.

Glaze it just before dishing; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) small [croustades] cooked in grooved brioche-moulds and garnished with Japanese artichokes cohered by means of velouté; (2) potato croquettes moulded to the shape of eggs and fried just before dishing up. Arrange the [croustades] and the croquettes alternately.

Send the gravy of the fillet, strained and cleared of all grease, to the table separately.

[1057—FILET DE BŒUF JARDINIÈRE]

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish and surround it with the following garnishes, which should be arranged in distinct heaps in such wise as to alternate their colours:—Carrots and turnips, raised by means of a grooved spoon-cutter and cooked separately in consommé; peas, French beans in lozenge-form and small flageolets, each of which vegetables should be cooked in a manner in keeping with its nature, and separately cohered with butter; portions of freshly-cooked cauliflower, kept very white and of tight growth.

Send some Hollandaise sauce for the cauliflower, and some clear gravy, to the table, separately.

[1058—FILET DE BŒUF LORETTE]

Lard the fillet and [poële] it.

Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish as follows:—(1) A small pyramid of Lorette potatoes (No. [2226]) at either end of the fillet; (2) fine heaps of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, on either side.

Send some [tomatéd] half-glaze separately.

[1059—FILET DE BŒUF MACÉDOINE]

Prepare the fillet as directed under “Filet de Bœuf Jardinière.” Set it on a long dish and surround it with a [Macédoine] garnish. The latter comprises the same ingredients as the “Jardinière”; but, instead of their being heaped separately, they are mixed together and cohered by means of butter.

[1060—FILET DE BŒUF AU MADÈRE ET AUX CHAMPIGNONS]

Lard and [poële] the fillet.

Glaze it; dish it as before, and surround it with fine mushroom-heads, turned and grooved.

[358]
]Send to the table, separately, a Madeira sauce finished with the [poëling]-liquor, cleared of all grease and reduced.

[1061—FILET DE BŒUF MODERNE]

Lard the fillet alternately with bacon and tongue, and [poële] it.

Glaze it just before dishing; set it on a long dish, and surround it with garnish as follows:—On either side of the fillet lay a row of small “chartreuses,” made in small, hexagonal moulds.

To make these “chartreuses,” butter the moulds and deck the bottom of each with a slice of truffle, big enough to almost entirely cover it. Now line the sides of the moulds with various vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, peas, and French beans; each of which vegetables should be cooked as its nature requires.

Arrange them in such wise as to vary their colours, and spread over the whole a thin layer of rather flimsy forcemeat.

Fill up the moulds with braised cabbage, which should be well pressed with the view of ridding it of all its moisture, and put the chartreuses in a [bain-marie] ten minutes before dishing the fillet.

At either end of the fillet set some braised half-lettuces, arranging them so that they frame the ends of the fillet in half-circles.

Between the lettuce and the chartreuses set four round quenelles, decorated with salted tongue and poached in time to be ready for the dishing of the meat.

Send to the table, separately, the [poëling]-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease, strained, and slightly thickened with arrowroot.

[1062—FILET DE BŒUF MONTMORENCY]

Lard the fillet and [poële] it.

Glaze it just before dishing up, and set it on a long dish.

Send to the table, separately, a Madeira sauce finished with the [poëling]-liquor of the fillet, to which add (per pint of the sauce) three tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly; two tablespoonfuls of finely-grated horse-radish, or the latter finely grated first, and then chopped; thirty moderately-sweetened cherries, set to soak in tepid water seven or eight minutes beforehand, and drained just before being added to the sauce.

[1063—FILET DE BŒUF NIVERNAISE]

Lard the fillet and [poële] it.

Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and [359] ]surround it with garnish as follows:—(1) Heaps of small carrots, shaped like elongated olives, cooked in white consommé and a little butter and sugar, and rolled in their cooking-liquor (reduced to the consistence of syrup), with the view of glazing them.

Send the [poëling]-liquor (cleared of all grease and strained) to the table separately.

[1064—FILET DE BŒUF ORIENTALE]

Roast the fillet “plain,” i.e., without previously larding it.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish, taking care to alternate the ingredients, viz., (1) timbales of rice à la grecque (No. [2253]) moulded in buttered [dariole-moulds], each timbale being placed on a medium-sized half-tomato, seasoned and tossed in butter; (2) croquettes of sweet potatoes, moulded to the shape of corks, and fried just before dishing up.

Send to the table, separately, a highly seasoned tomato sauce.

[1065—FILET DE BŒUF PERIGOURDINE]

Lard the fillet and [poële] it.

Glaze it just before dishing up; set it on a long dish, and surround it with medium-sized truffles, freshly cooked in Madeira and fine [mirepoix], and glazed. Send a Périgueux sauce separately.

[1066—FILET DE BŒUF PETIT DUC]

Lard the fillet and [poële] it.

Glaze it in good time; set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish:—(1) crisp, small patties of puff paste garnished with asparagus-heads cohered by means of cream sauce; (2) medium-sized artichoke-bottoms, prepared in the usual way, and garnished with slices of truffle.

Send, separately, a light, meat glaze, combined with four oz. of butter per one-half pint.

[1067—FILET DE BŒUF PORTUGAISE]

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish, and garnish it as follows:—

1. A row of medium-sized, stuffed tomatoes on either side.

2. At either end a nice heap of potatoes, shaped like long olives, and cooked in butter just before dishing up.

Send a light, Portugaise sauce separately.

[1068—FILET DE BŒUF PROVENÇALE]

Lard the fillet and [poële] it.

Glaze it at the last minute; set it on a long dish, and [360] ]surround it with the following, alternated:—Tomatoes and mushrooms stuffed à la Provençale (Nos. [2266] and [2075]).

Send a [tomatéd] half-glaze sauce, separately.

[1069—FILET DE BŒUF RÉGENCE]

[Marinade] the fillet in Rhine wine two or three hours in advance; cover it with a Matignon (No. [227]); envelop the fillet and the Matignon in slices of bacon, and set the whole to braise with its [marinade].

A few minutes before dishing up, remove the slices of bacon and the Matignon, and glaze the fillet.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish, which, except for the decorated quenelles, which are left plain, should be arranged in distinct heaps, and slightly coated with sauce:—(1) quenelles of ordinary forcemeat, combined with chopped tongue, moulded by means of a coffeespoon, and poached at the last minute; (2) collops of foie gras tossed in butter; (3) fine cocks’ combs; (4) very white, cooked mushroom-heads, and truffles shaped like large olives.

Send, separately, the braising-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease, strained with pressure, reduced, and added to a half-glaze sauce.

[1070—FILET DE BŒUF RENAISSANCE]

Lard the fillet and [poële] it.

Glaze it at the last minute; set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish of early-season vegetables, comprising carrots and turnips, raised by means of a large, round, grooved spoon-cutter, cooked in consommé and glazed; very green peas; small French beans; small faggots of asparagus-heads; portions of cauliflowers, and small potatoes cooked in butter.

Renaissance garnish is, however, subject to no fixed rules, and it may consist of all the available early-season vegetables, small artichoke-bottoms included.

Send a clear gravy separately.

[1071—FILET DE BŒUF RICHELIEU]

Lard the fillet, and either [poële] or roast it.

If it be [poëled], glaze it in good time; set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish, which should be arranged in distinct heaps and in such wise as to contrast its colouring:—(1) Small tomatoes and medium-sized mushrooms, stuffed; (2) small or half-lettuces, braised and well trimmed; (3) potatoes, the size of pigeons’ eggs, cooked in butter and prepared just in time for the dishing up.

[361]
]Send the cooking-liquor, cleared of all grease, and slightly thickened, separately.

[1072—FILET DE BŒUF SAINT-FLORENTIN]

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish:—(1) At either end, a heap of [cèpes], prepared à la Bordelaise at the last minute; (2) croquettes of potatoes à la Saint-Florentin, on either side. These croquettes are prepared from the same potato-paste as “Pommes Duchesse,” but in this case the paste receives a copious addition of chopped tongue. Mould them to the shape of lozenges, and treat them [à l’anglaise], using for the purpose very fine vermicelli instead of bread-crumbs.

Fry the croquettes just before dishing up.

Send, separately, a Bordelaise sauce with white wine, kept somewhat light.

[1073—FILET DE BŒUF SAINT-GERMAIN]

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish:—(1) At either end of the fillet a nice heap of glazed carrots, cut to the shape of olives; (2) a heap of very small potatoes, cooked in butter, on either side of the carrots; (3) a row of small timbales of very green peas purée (No. [2196]) on either side of the fillet.

[1074—FILET DE BŒUF TALLEYRAND]

Cut up the necessary number of raw truffles for the garnishing of the fillet. The pieces of truffle should be one inch long and one-quarter inch wide, and so pointed as to enable them to be easily stuck into the meat.

To stick them in, make small incisions in the fillet, and in these set the bits of truffle. [Marinade] the fillet for three hours in Madeira; wrap it in slices of bacon; string it, and set it to braise with its [marinade].

This done, remove the slices of bacon; glaze it, and set it on a long dish. Send the following garnish separately:—Poached macaroni, cut into pieces one and one-half inches long, and combined per lb. with three oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan, one and one-half oz. of butter, three oz. of a [julienne] of truffles, and three oz. of cooked foie gras, cut into large dice.

As an adjunct, send a Périgueux sauce with a fine [julienne] of truffles instead of the latter chopped.

[362]
][1075—FILET DE BŒUF FROID (Relevé)]

Fillet of beef, when properly dished, makes an excellent cold Relevé.

For this purpose lard it, roast it (keeping it somewhat underdone towards the centre), and, when it is quite cold, trim, and coat it with half-melted jelly.

Then set it either directly upon a dish or upon a cushion of bread or carved rice, which makes the dish more sightly when the garnish is added.

Before setting the fillet on the dish or on the cushion of rice, it is well to cut a slice one-fifth inch thick from the whole of its base; leave this slice under the fillet when dishing; by this means, when the carving is proceeded with, each slice will be found to be neatly trimmed.

Cold fillet of beef allows of every possible cold vegetable garnish.

The vegetables should be cooked with the greatest care and be left to cool naturally.

When they are quite cold, either cohere them by means of jelly, or set them round the fillet in neat heaps, taking care to alternate their shades, and coat them with almost melted aspic.

Finally, between each heap of vegetables lay a little chopped and very clear aspic, and, round the whole, arrange a border consisting of bits of aspic (round, oval, square, lozenge-shaped, &c.) very regularly cut.

I see no reason for devoting any further space to this subject. What has been said should, I think, suffice to show how varied and numerous are the possible ways of dishing cold fillet of beef, the minute details of which may, with advantage, be left to the ingenuity of the operator.

FILLET OF BEEF FOR ENTRÉES

[1076—CHÂTEAUBRIAND, FILLET STEAK, TOURNEDOS]

By fillet steaks are understood those pieces of meat cut laterally from the thickest part of the fillet of beef.

They ought to be about one and one-half inches thick, and weigh from six to seven oz. Tournedos are half-fillets in respect of their weight, and might well be called the “kernels” of the fillet of beef. The usual thickness of a tournedos is about one and one-quarter inches, and they should be cut to a nice, round shape. With the object of preserving their shape, they may be tied round with string.

Châteaubriand is also procured from the centre of fillet of [363] ]beef, and its weight is often twice, thrice, and sometimes more than thrice as much as that of the ordinary fillet steaks.

As a rule, especially when grilled, it constitutes a special roast for luncheons; when it is cooked in the saucepan, i.e., [sautéd], it is more often served as a Relevé.

The same garnishes suit fillet, Châteaubriands, and tournedos, the only necessary modifications being in respect of size and arrangement, which should be subject to the size of the piece of meat.

The garnishes detailed hereafter are for the tournedos, which supply the greatest number of the dishes prepared from the three different cuts of fillet. If a fillet steak be prepared after one of the following recipes, the garnish should be made a little stronger, and its constituents modified in the dishing, neither of which changes need in any way alter the formula.

The same holds with regard to a Châteaubriand. Thus, for example, if it be required to prepare a fillet steak or a Châteaubriand, after the recipe “Tournedos à l’Algérienne,” the number of croquettes and tomatoes should be half as much again, and they should be arranged alternately round the meat, instead of the latter being placed on the croquettes, as in the case of the tournedos.

If the fillets are to be treated “à l’Alsacienne,” after the recipe for tournedos, the sauerkraut should be dished in a timbale instead of in tartlet-crusts, &c.

All that is needed, therefore, is a change in the method of arrangement, and this can be decided upon at a glance, without necessarily interfering with the principle of the recipe.

It should be borne in mind that nearly all the garnishes given under fillet of beef, served whole, may be applied to Châteaubriands, fillet steak, and tournedos, provided they be made in proportion to the size of the different pieces. I see no need, therefore, to repeat these vegetable recipes in so far as they relate to the various cuts of fillet of beef.

It is only necessary to add that for the fillet of beef, as well as for tournedos, noisettes, &c., a large number of plain vegetable garnishes may be used, the details of which I prefer to omit for fear of unduly lengthening this work.

Whole fillets, fillet steak, and tournedos may thus be served with garnishes of braised celery, tuberous fennel, cardoons with gravy, chow-chow and endives, braised lettuce, various purées, &c., and, generally, with all the vegetable preparations given in [Chapter XVII].

[364]
]Important Remarks relative to the Sauces suited to Entrées of Butcher’s Meat, Garnished with Vegetables

The derivative sauces of the Espagnole are not, as a rule, suited to entrées garnished with vegetables. Thickened gravy is better.

The finest adjunct, however, is meat-glaze, which should receive an addition of four oz. of butter per pint, and should be slightly acidulated by means of a few drops of lemon juice. This glaze ought to be so light as not to impaste the vegetables.

Such vegetables as asparagus-heads, peas, French beans, [macédoines], &c., have a disintegrating action upon the sauces, and this is owing either to their natural moisture or to their leason. As a result of this action the preparation has an unsightly appearance when served upon the diner’s plate.

With Châteaubriand sauce (No. [71]) or buttered meat-glaze this objection does not obtain, seeing that this sauce does not decompose, but combines admirably with the garnish, and lends the latter a certain noticeable mellowness.

I therefore emphasise this point, viz., that the derivative sauces of the Espagnole and tomato sauces should be exclusively used with such preparations garnished with truffles, cock’s combs and kidneys, quenelles and mushrooms, as “la Financière,” “la Godard,” &c.

TOURNEDOS

[1077—TOURNEDOS ALGÉRIENNE]

Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.

Arrange them in the form of a crown on a round dish, and set a croquette of sweet potato, moulded to a round shape, upon each.

Around the whole lay some small, emptied, and seasoned half-tomatoes, stewed in oil.

[1078—TOURNEDOS ALSACIENNE]

Season and grill the tournedos.

There should have been prepared in advance as many small tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos.

Garnish these tartlets with well-drained, braised sauerkraut, and set on each a roundel of the lean of ham, stamped out with an even cutter. Arrange them in the form of a crown on a dish, and set a tournedos upon each tartlet.

[365]
][1079—TOURNEDOS ARLÉSIENNE]

Fry the tournedos in butter and oil.

When about to serve, set the tournedos on a dish, and surround them with fried roundels of egg-plant and tossed tomatoes, alternating the two garnishes, and placing roundels of fried onions on the tournedos.

[1080—TOURNEDOS BALTIMORE]

Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.

Set them in the form of a crown on small tartlets garnished by means of maize with cream.

Upon each tournedos set a roundel of tomato, seasoned and tossed in butter, and a smaller slice of green capsicum, also tossed in butter, on each roundel of tomato.

Accompanying sauce: a Châteaubriand (No. [71]).

[1081—TOURNEDOS BÉARNAISE]

Season the tournedos, and grill them.

Set them on round crusts, half an inch thick, fried in clarified butter; slightly coat the surface of the tournedos with meat-glaze, and surround them with a thread of Béarnaise sauce (No. [62]).

In the centre arrange a heap of small potatoes cooked in butter and kept very soft, and sprinkle thereon a pinch of chopped parsley.

N.B.—The tournedos may be simply coated with glaze and the Béarnaise sauce served separately.

[1082—TOURNEDOS BELLE-HÉLÈNE]

Prepare as many small croquettes of asparagus-tops, shaped like quoits, as there are tournedos, and fry them while the latter are being cooked. Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.

Arrange them, in the form of a crown, on a dish; place a croquette on each tournedos, and a large, glazed slice of truffle on each croquette.

[1083—TOURNEDOS BERCY]

Grill the tournedos, and coat them lightly with pale meat-glaze.

Dish them in the form of a crown, and serve a half-melted “Beurre à la Bercy” (No. [139]) separately.

[1084—TOURNEDOS BORDELAISE]

Grill the tournedos, and dish them in the form of a crown.

Set a large slice of poached marrow on each, and serve a Bordelaise sauce (No. [32]) separately.

[366]
][1085—TOURNEDOS BRABANÇONNE]

Prepare as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos.

Garnish them with very small parboiled Brussels sprouts, stewed in butter; cover these with Mornay sauce, and set to glaze a few moments before dishing.

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter; set them on the prepared tartlets of sprouts, and surround with a border of small “pommes de terre fondantes” (No. [2214]).

[1086—TOURNEDOS CASTILLANE]

Prepare (1) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) peeled, pressed, and seasoned tomatoes, cooked in butter; these should be in the proportion of one tablespoonful per tartlet; (3) rings of onion, fried in oil as for “Tournedos à l’Arlésienne”; (4) a garnish of one tablespoonful of small French beans, cohered with butter, per tartlet.

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown on fried crusts.

Place a tartlet, garnished with a [fondue] of tomatoes, on each tournedos; all round arrange a border of the fried roundels of onion, and serve the French beans, either in the middle of the dish or separately in a timbale.

[1087—TOURNEDOS CENDRILLON]

Prepare (1) as many fine artichoke-bottoms as there are tournedos; (2) a Soubise purée, combined with chopped truffles, and well buttered.

A few moments before the tournedos are ready, garnish the artichoke-bottoms with the Soubise, and set them to glaze in a fierce oven.

Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and set them on the artichoke-bottoms, which should be arranged in a circle round the dish.

[1088—TOURNEDOS AUX CHAMPIGNONS]

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown; drain the butter from the sautépan; swill the latter with some mushroom cooking-liquor, and add thereto a proportional quantity of mushroom sauce. Set to boil for a few minutes, and pour the sauce, with the mushrooms, in the midst of the circle of tournedos.

[1089—TOURNEDOS CHASSEUR]

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.

[367]
]Drain the butter away; swill the sautépan with white wine, and add to this a quantity of Chasseur sauce, which should be in proportion to the number of tournedos.

Set to boil for a moment or two, and pour the sauce over the tournedos.

[1090—TOURNEDOS CHORON]

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Set them on crusts fried in butter; round the top of each lay a thread of Choron sauce (No. [64]), and in the middle of each set a medium-sized artichoke-bottom garnished with peas or asparagus-heads cohered with butter.

All round, arrange a border of potatoes, lightly browned in butter, or heap them in the middle of the crown of tournedos.

N.B.—The sauce may be served separately.

[1091—TOURNEDOS COLIGNY]

1. With a preparation of sweet potatoes, made after the manner of “Duchesse potatoes” (No. [221]), make as many small [galettes] as there are tournedos, and of the same size as the latter.

Place them on a tray; [gild] them, and set them to brown in the oven a few minutes before the tournedos are ready.

2. Cut some chow-chows in thick slices

, [paysanne fashion]; parboil them; stew them in butter, and add thereto an equal quantity of Provençale sauce.

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, on the [galettes] of potato, and cover them with the [paysanne] of chow-chow.

[1092—TOURNEDOS A L’ESTRAGON]

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown, and on each set either a spray of parboiled tarragon leaves or a lattice composed of the latter. Send separately a thickened gravy with tarragon (No. [41]).

[1093—TOURNEDOS FAVORITE]

Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on crusts stamped out with an indented cutter and fried in butter.

On each tournedos place a round collop of foie gras, a little smaller than the piece of meat; the collop should be seasoned, dredged, and tossed in butter. On each collop of foie gras put a fine, glazed slice of indented truffle. Garnish the centre of the dish with a fine heap of asparagus-tops cohered with butter, or merely set these in small heaps round the tournedos.

[368]
]Serve separately a timbale of potatoes (of the size of hazel-nuts) cooked in butter, rolled in pale meat-glaze, and slightly sprinkled with chopped parsley.

[1094—TOURNEDOS A LA FLORENTINE]

Prepare (1) as many [subrics] of shredded spinach as there are tournedos; make them of the same size as the latter, and cook them at the same time as the tournedos; (2) small, round croquettes of semolina the size of walnuts; these should be fried a few minutes before the tournedos are ready.

Grill the tournedos, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on the spinach [subrics]. The croquettes of semolina may be arranged either in the middle or all round.

[1095—TOURNEDOS FORESTIÈRE]

Season the tournedos, and [sauté] them. Set them on crusts fried in butter. Surround them with alternate heaps of noodles and potatoes cut into large dice and tossed in butter.

The potatoes may also be placed in the midst of the tournedos with the noodles all round, or vice versâ.

[1096—TOURNEDOS GABRIELLE]

Make a preparation from the white meat of a chicken and truffles—both cut into dice and cohered with the necessary quantity of somewhat light “Duchesse-potatoes” paste.

With this preparation make as many small quoit-shaped croquettes as there are tournedos, and fry them while the latter are being cooked.

Season the tournedos, and fry them with oil and butter in equal quantities. Dish them, in the form of a crown, on the prepared croquettes, and on each tournedos set a fine roundel of poached marrow and one slice of truffle.

Around the tournedos arrange some very small, braised, and well-trimmed lettuces.

[1097—TOURNEDOS HENRI IV]

Grill the tournedos, and set them on crusts fried in butter.

Round the edge of each tournedos lay a thread of Béarnaise sauce, and on top of each an artichoke-bottom garnished with very small potatoes (of the size of hazel-nuts) cooked in butter.

N.B.—Instead of putting the sauce on the edge of the tournedos, it may be served separately.

[1098—TOURNEDOS JUDIC]

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown on crusts fried in butter. On each [369] ]tournedos set a crown of truffle slices, with a cock’s kidney in the centre, and surround with braised, trimmed, and quartered lettuces.

[1099—TOURNEDOS LAKMÉ[!-- TN: original reads "LACKME", changed to match index --]

Prepare (1) as many small tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) the same number of grilled, medium-sized mushrooms; (3) a garnish of one tablespoonful of broad beans with cream per tartlet.

Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a tartlet garnished with broad beans, and set a grilled mushroom on each tournedos.

[1100—TOURNEDOS LESDIGUIÈRES]

Select onions sufficiently large to admit of placing the tournedos upon them, and let their number equal that of the tournedos.

Trim their tops, and parboil them almost long enough to cook them.

Then, by means of a small knife, cut out their insides so that they may form little cases. Fill the latter, two-thirds full, with spinach prepared with cream, cover the spinach with Mornay sauce, and set them to glaze in a fierce oven a few moments before the tournedos are ready.

Grill the tournedos; dish them in the form of a crown, each on an onion.

[1101—TOURNEDOS LILI]

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Dish them, in the form of a crown, each on a crust of “Pommes de terre Anna” (No. [2203]), stamped out with a round, even cutter of the same size as the tournedos.

On each tournedos set an artichoke-bottom garnished with a roundel of foie gras tossed in butter, and on the foie gras place a slice of truffle. Send, separately, a reduced and well-buttered Périgueux sauce.

[1102—TOURNEDOS LUCULLUS]

Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on fried crusts. Surround them with a garnish consisting of quenelles of chicken forcemeat, cocks’ combs, truffles, and [blanched] olives, and coat the whole with half-glaze sauce prepared with truffle essence.

[1103—TOURNEDOS MADELEINE]

For ten tournedos prepare (1) ten timbales of a purée of haricot beans. For these timbales the purée of haricot beans [370] ]must be cohered per lb. with one egg and three yolks, finished with two oz. of butter, put into well-buttered [dariole-moulds], and set these to poach fifteen minutes in advance.

(2) Ten small artichoke-bottoms garnished with reduced Soubise.

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter; dish them, and surround them with the timbales and the artichoke-bottoms, alternating the two garnishes.

[1104[!-- TN: original reads "104" --]—TOURNEDOS MARÉCHALE]

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them upon fried crusts. On each of the tournedos set a large, glazed slice of truffle, and surround them with little heaps of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.

[1105—TOURNEDOS MARIE-LOUISE]

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Dish them, in the form of a crown, upon crusts one-third inch thick, fried in butter. On each tournedos set a small artichoke-bottom, stewed in butter, garnished in the shape of a dome, by means of a piping-bag, with a purée of mushrooms combined with a quart of very reduced Soubise.

[1106—TOURNEDOS MASCOTTE]

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Have a garnish ready consisting of raw, quartered artichoke-bottoms fried in butter; small, olive-shaped potatoes, also cooked in butter; and olive-shaped truffles.

When about to serve, dish the tournedos in a cocotte with the garnish above described.

Swill the sauté-pan with white wine; add thereto a little gravy; reduce the whole, strain it into the cocotte, and put the latter in the front of the oven for a minute or two.

[1107—TOURNEDOS MASSÉNA]

Season the tournedos and fry them in butter; dish them on fried crusts of the same size, and, in the middle of each tournedos, set a large slice of poached marrow.

Surround with a row of small artichoke-bottoms, garnished with very stiff Béarnaise sauce.

[1108—TOURNEDOS A LA MÉNAGÈRE]

Put into an earthenware cocotte the following vegetables, which should be in proportion to the number of tournedos:—Haricot butter or “Princesse” cut into small pieces, minced new carrots, very small new onions, and very fresh peas.

[371]
]All these vegetables should be equally apportioned.

Add salt, butter, and a very little water, for the cooking of the vegetables should be effected mainly by the concentration of steam inside the cocotte, which, for the purpose, should therefore be well closed.

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon the vegetables in the cocotte at the last moment.

[1109—TOURNEDOS A LA MEXICAINE]

Prepare (1) a [fondue] of peeled and pressed tomatoes, cooked in butter, well reduced, and in the proportion of one tablespoonful per mushroom; (2) as many large grilled mushrooms as there are tournedos, while the latter are being fried; (3) some grilled or fried capsicums in the proportion of half a one per tournedos.

Season the tournedos, and fry them in oil and butter in equal quantities. Dish them each on a mushroom garnished with the [fondue] of tomatoes, and cover them with the grilled or fried capsicums.

[1110—TOURNEDOS MIKADO]

Select some fine, rather firm tomatoes—“Mikados,” as they are called—and cut them in two laterally. Squeeze them with the object of expressing all their juice and seeds; season them inside, and grill them so that they may be ready at the same time as the tournedos.

Season the latter and fry them in butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a grilled half-tomato, and garnish the centre of the dish with Japanese artichokes tossed in butter.

[1111—TOURNEDOS MIRABEAU]

Grill the tournedos.

Lay eight fine strips of anchovy fillets upon each, crossing the former after the manner of a lattice. Cover the edges with a crown of [blanched] tarragon leaves, and set a large stoned olive in the middle of each tournedos.

Send some half-melted anchovy butter separately, and allow two-thirds oz. of it for each tournedos.

[1112—TOURNEDOS MIREILLE]

For ten tournedos, prepare in advance, (1) five [croustades] from the preparation used for “pommes Duchesse.” To make these [croustades], fill some buttered [dariole-moulds] with the preparation referred to, taking care to press it snugly into them. Dip the moulds into tepid water, turn out, treat the mouldings [372] ][à l’anglaise], fry them, hollow out their centres, and keep them hot.

(2) A [fondue] of tomatoes in the proportion of one heaped tablespoonful per [croustade].

(3) Five timbales of pilaff rice, made after the same manner as the [croustades], and kept hot until required for dishing.

Season the tournedos, fry them in butter, and dish them as soon as they are ready.

Surround them with timbales of rice, and the [croustades] garnished with the [fondue], the two garnishes to be alternated.

[1113—TOURNEDOS MIRETTE]

Prepare as many small timbales of “pommes Mirette” (No. [2234]) as there are tournedos.

Turn them out on a dish, sprinkle with grated Parmesan and a few drops of melted butter, and set them to glaze a few minutes before the tournedos are ready. Grill the tournedos, dish them in the form of a crown, and set a timbale of pommes Mirette upon each.

Swill the sauté-pan with white wine; add thereto a little meat-glaze, finish with butter, and pour the resulting sauce over the tournedos.

[1114—TOURNEDOS A LA MOELLE[!-- TN: original reads "MOËLLE" --]

Grill the tournedos and dish them in the form of a crown.

Lay on each of them a large slice of poached marrow, and either surround them with Bordelaise sauce or send the latter to the table separately.

[1115—TOURNEDOS MONTGOMERY]

Season the tournedos and fry them in butter.

Dish them upon a pancake of spinach (No. [2138]), cooked in a tartlet-mould. Deck each tournedos with a rosette of reduced Soubise, made by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, and put a fine slice of truffle in the centre of the rosette.

[1116—TOURNEDOS MONTPENSIER]

Prepare (1) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) a garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, in the proportion of one heaped tablespoonful per tartlet.

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon fried crusts.

On each of them set a tartlet garnished with asparagus-heads, with a slice of truffle in the middle.

[373]
][1117—TOURNEDOS AUX MORILLES]

Grill the tournedos or fry them in butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown; in the centre arrange a heap of morels tossed in butter, and besprinkle them moderately with chopped parsley.

[1118—TOURNEDOS A LA NIÇOISE]

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.

In the centre of each tournedos set a small heap, consisting of one half-tablespoonful of peeled, pressed, and [concassed] tomatoes, tossed in butter, together with a little crushed garlic and chopped tarragon.

Surround with small heaps of French beans cohered with butter, and other heaps of small potatoes, cooked in butter, alternating the two garnishes.

[1119—TOURNEDOS NINON]

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon crusts of “pommes Anna,” stamped out with a round fancy-cutter of the same size as the tournedos. On each of the latter set a small patty, garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered with butter and combined with a fine and short [julienne] of truffles.

[1120—TOURNEDOS PARMENTIER]

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.

In the middle of the dish or round it set a fine heap of potatoes, cut into regular cubes of two-thirds inch side, or raised by means of an oval, grooved spoon-cutter. The potatoes should be cooked in butter and kept very soft.

Slightly sprinkle the potatoes with chopped parsley.

[1121—TOURNEDOS PERSANE]

Prepare as many green capsicums, stuffed with rice moulded to the shape of balls and braised, and as many grilled half-tomatoes as there are tournedos. Also have some fried slices of banana ready, and allow three for each tournedos.

Fry the tournedos in butter and dish them, in the form of a crown, on the grilled half-tomatoes. On each tournedos set a stuffed and braised capsicum.

In the centre of the dish arrange the fried slices of banana in a nice heap. Send separately to the table a Châteaubriand sauce, combined with the reduced braising-liquor of the capsicums.

[374]
][1122—TOURNEDOS PERUVIENNE]

Prepare, after the manner described below, as many [oxalis] roots as there are tournedos.

Peel the [oxalis] roots; cut a slice from underneath them, in order to make them stand upright, and hollow them out to form little cases.

Chop up the pulp extracted from them in the last operation, and add it to a preparation of duxelles, made as for stuffed mushrooms.

Fill the [oxalis] cases with this preparation, shaping it above their edges after the manner of a dome; besprinkle with raspings and oil, and put them in the oven in good time for them to be ready at the same time as the tournedos.

Grill the tournedos, dish them in the form of a crown, and surround them with the [oxalis] cases.

[1123—TOURNEDOS PIÉMONTAISE[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Butter as many tartlet-moulds as there are tournedos; fill them with Rizotto à la Piémontaise, combined with white truffles cut into dice, and keep them hot.

Fry the tournedos in clarified butter; dish them, in the form of a crown, on the rizotto tartlets, turned out at the last minute.

[1124—TOURNEDOS[!-- TN: original reads "TOURNENOS" --] PROVENÇALE]

For ten tournedos, prepare (1) ten medium-sized mushrooms, stuffed with duxelles, slightly flavoured with garlic, and put in the oven in good time; (2) ten half-tomatoes à la Provençale (No. [2266]).

Fry the tournedos in equal quantities of butter and oil; dish them, in the form of a crown, on fried crusts, with a half-tomato upon each, and around them set the stuffed mushrooms.

[1125—TOURNEDOS RACHEL]

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on fried crusts one-third inch thick.

On each tournedos set a small artichoke-bottom, garnished with a large slice of poached marrow.

Send a Bordelaise sauce separately.

[1126—TOURNEDOS ROSSINI]

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, upon fried crusts.

On each tournedos set a round slice of foie gras, just a little smaller than the former; the slices should be seasoned, dredged, and fried in butter.

On each slice of foie-gras, set a fine slice of truffle.

[375]
][1127—TOURNEDOS ROUMANILLE]

Cut the tournedos a little smaller than usual. Season them; fry them in butter, and dish them in a circle on grilled half-tomatoes.

Coat the tournedos with Mornay sauce, and set them to glaze quickly.

In the middle of each tournedos set a large stuffed and poached olive, encircled by a ring consisting of an anchovy fillet.

In the centre of the dish arrange a fine heap of egg-plant roundels, seasoned with salt and pepper, dredged, fried in oil, and kept very crisp.

[1128—TOURNEDOS SAINT MANDE]

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of a circle, each on a little cushion of “pommes de terre Macaire,” moulded in ordinary tartlet-moulds.

In the centre of the dish set a garnish consisting of peas cohered with butter.

[1129—TOURNEDOS A LA SARDE]

Prepare a garnish of (1) hollowed, parboiled, and braised sections of cucumber, stuffed with duxelles, and [gratined]; (2) small tomatoes, similarly treated; (3) small round croquettes of rice flavoured with saffron, thickened with egg-yolks, treated [à l’anglaise], and fried.

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.

Set a croquette of rice upon each tournedos, and frame the whole with the stuffed cucumber cases and the stuffed tomatoes, laid alternately.

[1130—TOURNEDOS SOUBISE]

Grill the tournedos and dish them in the form of a crown.

Serve a light Soubise purée separately.

[1131—TOURNEDOS TIVOLI]

For ten tournedos, prepare ten small grilled mushrooms, and allow one half-tomato tossed in butter for each mushroom.

Fry the tournedos in butter and dish them, in the form of a crown, upon fried crusts. On each tournedos set a grilled mushroom, garnished with a tossed half-tomato, and all round set some fine “pommes soufflées” made in ribbon-form, of a round shape, and in the proportion of one potato to each tournedos.

Send a Béarnaise sauce separately.

[376]
][1132—TOURNEDOS TYROLIENNE]

For ten tournedos, prepare the following sauce:—Gently cook one chopped onion in butter; add two peeled, pressed, and roughly-chopped tomatoes, salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and a little crushed garlic.

When the tomatoes are sufficiently cooked, add thereto a few tablespoonfuls of poivrade sauce, and set to boil for five minutes.

Fry the tournedos in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, and cover them with the prepared sauce.

[1133—TOURNEDOS VALENÇAY]

Fry the tournedos in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, each on a small, round, and flat croquette of noodles and ham, fried just before dishing up.

Send a Châteaubriand sauce separately.

[1134—TOURNEDOS VALENTINO]

Prepare as many pieces of turnips, of the same diameter as the tournedos and one and one-half inch thick, as there are tournedos. Cut them neatly round, stamp them with an even and round cutter, and parboil them until they are almost completely cooked. Hollow them out, by means of a spoon, inside the mark left by the fancy-cutter, and stuff them with a preparation of semolina with Parmesan.

Put these stuffed pieces of turnip in a sautépan; add a little water, butter, and sugar, and glaze them while finishing their cooking-process.

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in a circle, each on a stuffed case of turnip.

[1135—TOURNEDOS VERT-PRÉ]

Grill the tournedos, and dish them simply with half-melted butter à la Maître-d’Hôtel upon them.

Surround them with alternate heaps of water-cress and freshly-fried straw potatoes.

[1136—TOURNEDOS VICTORIA]

Fry the tournedos in butter.

Dish them in a circle, each on a little round and flat croquette of chicken-meat. On each tournedos set a half-tomato tossed in butter.

[1137—TOURNEDOS VILLARET]

Prepare (1) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) a sufficient quantity of very smooth flageolet purée to garnish the tartlets; (3) a fine grilled tomato per each tournedos.

[377]
]Grill the tournedos, and dish them on the garnished tartlets. On each tournedos set a grilled mushroom, the hollow of which should have been filled with Châteaubriand sauce.

[1138—TOURNEDOS VILLENEUVE]

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in a circle on little quoit-shaped croquettes of chicken-meat, fried at the last moment.

On each tournedos set a crown of small roundels of tongue and truffle, laid alternately, and a small grooved mushroom in the middle.

Send a Châteaubriand sauce separately.

[1139—TOURNEDOS VILLEMER]

Grill the tournedos, and dish them in a circle, each on a fried, hollowed-out crust, garnished with truffled Soubise.

On each tournedos set a large slice of truffle coated with meat-glaze.

[1140—FILETS EN CHEVREUIL]

For the “en chevreuil” treatment, the meat used is generally cut from the narrowest end of the fillet of beef. The weight of the pieces cut should average about three oz. each.

After having slightly flattened and trimmed them, lard them with very thin strips of bacon, and [marinade] them for a few hours in the raw [marinade] given under No. [169]. When about to cook them, dry them thoroughly, and fry them quickly in hot oil, taking care that the latter be smoking, and therefore hot enough to set the meat and to cause its external moisture to evaporate.

The fillets may be accompanied by all vegetable purées and highly-seasoned sauces, the most suitable of the latter being the Poivrade and the Chasseur.

[1141—SIRLOIN OF BEEF (Relevé)]

Sirloin of beef is that part of the bullock’s back reaching from the haunch to the floating ribs, which is equivalent to the saddle in veal and mutton. This piece, however, cannot properly be called “sirloin,” except when it comprises the fillet or undercut, and the upper fillet (Fr.: contrefilet), so-called to distinguish it from the undercut. If this joint be treated whole, it need only be shortened by suppressing the flank, and by sectioning the ligament lying alongside of the chine on the upper fillet, in different places.

A little fat is left on the undercut, but none whatever must be removed from the upper fillet. As a rule, when sirloin of beef is braised, it is cut laterally into pieces weighing from [378] ]six to seven lbs. If it is to be roasted, it is best to keep it whole.

When served as a relevé, it is braised or roasted, and is kept underdone if so desired. Unless it be of excellent quality, however, braised sirloin generally turns out to be dry.

All garnishes given for “Filet de Bœuf” may be served with sirloin; but, as a rule, the bulkiest, such as the “Richelieu,” the “Provençale,” the “Godard,” &c., are selected.

The accompanying sauce is that indicated for the above garnishes.

[1142—PORTERHOUSE-STEAK (Grill)]

Porterhouse-steak is a slice from the sirloin of beef, which may be more or less thick. It is cleared of the flank and of the bones of the chine, and it is always grilled.

It may be served with any of the various garnishes and sauces suited to grills; but it is more often served plain.

[1143—UPPER FILLET AND RIBS OF BEEF (Relevé)]

The upper fillet is that part of beef which lies between the top of the haunch and the floating ribs, alongside of the chine. It may be treated like the fillet, and all the garnishes suited to the latter may also be applied here.

If the piece is to be braised, it should be completely boned; if intended for roasting, it is best to retain the bones. In the latter case, the large ligament should be cut at various points with the view of preventing distortion, while the bones constituting the spinous process should be broken close to the point where they join the body of the vertebræ, that they may be easily removed when the meat is being carved.

The upper fillet, especially when it is of good quality, is best roasted.

Ribs of beef may likewise be braised or roasted.

In either case, the meat should be properly trimmed and cleared of all the bones of the spinous process.

This piece should only be used after having been well hung, in order that it may be as tender as possible.

[1144—GRILLED SIRLOIN STEAKS AND RIBS OF BEEF]

The sirloin steak may be cut either from the upper fillet or the ribs of beef, i.e., between two rib-bones. In order that its cooking may be regular, it should not weigh more than from two to three lbs.

Ribs of beef may also be grilled, provided they be sufficiently tender.

[379]
]They may be braised, too, and in this case they are served with any of the various garnishes given under Fillet of Beef.

[1145—PIÈCE DE BŒUF BRAISÉE (Relevé)]

The piece of beef called rump is the one preferred for boiling and braising. Whatever be the use for which the meat is intended, the weight of the pieces should not be more than six or eight lbs. at the most, and they should be cut in the length rather than in the thickness, that the cooking process may be facilitated.

All the garnishes of braised sirloin of beef are suited to braised pieces of beef.

Boiled beef is generally accompanied by the vegetables used in its cooking-process, by purées, green or dry vegetables, pastes, macaroni, &c., &c.

[1146—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA BOURGUIGNONNE]

Lard the piece of beef, and [marinade] it for three hours in brandy and red wine. Braise it after the manner described under No. [247]; moisten first with the wine of the [marinade], and, when the latter is reduced, with some veal gravy and one-half pint of Espagnole sauce per quart of liquid, taking care that the whole moistening reaches the top of the piece of meat. Add a faggot and some mushroom parings; set to boil, and cook gently in the oven.

When the meat is two-thirds cooked, transfer it to another saucepan, and surround it with mushrooms cut into two or four, according to their size, and tossed in butter; breast of bacon, cut

into dice, [blanched] and tossed in butter, and some small onions half-glazed with butter.

Strain the sauce through a sieve over the piece of beef and its garnish, and complete the cooking gently.

A few minutes before serving, put the meat on a dish and glaze it in the oven. Transfer the meat to the dish intended for the table; quickly reduce the sauce if necessary, and pour it over the piece of beef and the garnish.

[1147—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA CUILLER]

Select a very square or oval piece of beef, and bear in mind, in selecting it, that it will have to be fashioned to the shape of a case when it has been cooked.

String it, and braise it after the manner described under No. [247], almost entirely covering it with moistening liquor.

Set it to cook gently; withdraw the piece when the meat is still somewhat firm, and let it cool under slight pressure.

[380]
]This done, cut out the meat from the inside; leave a thickness of about half-inch round the sides and on the bottom, and the piece thus emptied should constitute a square or oval case, in accordance with the shape originally adopted.

Coat the outside of the whole piece with a mixture of beaten eggs and fine bread-crumbs, combined with Parmesan; sprinkle melted butter over it with a brush, and put the case into a sufficiently hot oven to allow of a crust forming round it.

Meanwhile chop up the meat extracted from the inside of the piece; add thereto a little salted tongue, some braised slices of sweet-bread, and mushrooms; put the whole into a sautépan with an Italian or a half-glaze sauce, according to the requirements, and heat this garnish.

N.B.—This preparation was quite common in old-fashioned cookery, but though it is still served occasionally, it is now looked upon more as a curiosity than anything else. As a curiosity, therefore, I chose to include it among these recipes; but it does not follow from this that I in any way recommend it.

[1148—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA FLAMANDE]

Lard the piece of beef, and braise it as explained under No. [247].

Meanwhile prepare the following garnish:—(1) Cut a nice firm cabbage into four, remove the heart, and parboil it for seven or eight minutes. Drain it; cool it; divide up the quarters, leaf by leaf, so as to remove the hard ribs, and season with salt and pepper.

Mould them to the shape of balls by pressing them in the corner of a towel into balls weighing about three oz. each, or simply put them into a saucepan with a quartered carrot, an onion stuck with a clove, a faggot, six oz. of [blanched] breast of pork, and a little raw sausage with garlic, which latter must be withdrawn after cooking has gone on for one and one-half hours.

Moisten the cabbage with just sufficient consommé to cover it; add a few tablespoonfuls of good stock-fat; set to boil, and cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours.

(2) Cut the required quantity of carrots and turnips to the shape of olives; cook them in consommé, and reduce the latter for the purpose of glazing.

(3) Prepare some potatoes [à l’anglaise].

Set the piece of beef on a dish large enough to allow of the former being surrounded with the moulded or plainly-heaped cabbages, the glazed carrots and turnips, and the potatoes à [381] ][l’anglaise]. The last two vegetables should be set in alternate heaps with the cabbages and the bacon (cut into small rectangles) and the sausage (cut into roundels) should be distributed all round.

Serve separately the gravy of the piece of beef, cleared of all grease, reduced to a half-glaze and strained.

[1149—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA MODE CHAUDE]

Lard the piece of beef, which should not, if possible, weigh more than from four to five lbs. The strips of bacon used for larding ought to have been prepared fifteen or twenty minutes in advance, [marinaded] in a few tablespoonfuls of brandy, and sprinkled with parsley just before being used.

Rub the piece with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and put it into a basin with one bottle of red wine and one-fifth pint of brandy, and set it to [marinade] for four or five hours, taking care to turn it over from time to time.

Then set it to braise after the manner described under No. [247]; add its [marinade] to the moistening, and surround it with three small, boned, [blanched], and strung calf’s feet.

When the cooking is three-quarters done, transfer the piece of beef to another saucepan, and surround it with the following garnish:—

1. About one-quarter lb. of carrots turned to the shape of elongated olives, and already two-thirds cooked.

2. Small onions coloured in two-thirds lb. of butter.

3. The calf’s feet cut into small, square, or rectangular pieces.

Strain the braising-liquor over the whole, and complete the cooking gently. When about to serve, either glaze the piece of beef, or dish it plain; coat it lightly with sauce, and send what remains of the latter, with the garnish, in a timbale.

[1150—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA MODE FROIDE]

Bœuf à la mode is very rarely prepared specially for cold dishing, the remains of a fine piece being generally used for that purpose. The piece of meat must first be well trimmed. If the quantity of sauce do not seem enough, or if the sauce itself seem too stiff, add a third of its volume of aspic jelly to it.

For moulding, take a [terrine à pâté], a mould, or other utensil capable of holding the piece of meat, its garnish, and its sauce. Deck the bottom of the utensil in any suitable way with the carrots and the onions, and surround the piece with what remains of the latter and the dice of calf’s foot.

[382]
]Add the sauce, combined with the jelly, after having passed it through a strainer, and put the whole in the cool for a few hours. Turn out just before serving, and surround with very light, chopped jelly.

[1151—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA NOAILLES]

Lard the piece of beef, and [marinade] it in brandy and red wine.

This done, dry it thoroughly, and brown it evenly in butter all over; moisten it with its [marinade] and an equal quantity of veal gravy, and set to cook gently.

When the meat is half-cooked, surround it with two lbs. of minced onions, tossed in butter, and three oz. of rice. Complete the cooking of the piece with onions and rice.

Now withdraw the piece of beef, and quickly rub the onions and the rice through tammy. Reduce this Soubise with rice for a few moments.

Neatly trim the piece of beef; cut it into even slices; reconstruct it on a dish, and between each slice pour a tablespoonful of Soubise purée.

Cover the reconstructed piece of beef with the remainder of the Soubise; sprinkle the surface with two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs fried in butter, and some melted butter, and put the whole in the oven, that the [gratin] may form speedily.

[1152—THE RUMP]

Rumpsteak and Beefsteak.

The rump is that portion of the sirloin of beef which touches the top of the haunch.

It may be braised, but it is more often grilled in slices from one inch to one and one-half inches thick, which are called “rumpsteaks.”

With reference to this subject, it is as well to point out that the term “Beefsteak,” so hackneyed in France, is scarcely used in England, owing to its want of precision.

In France, beefsteak is either a cut from the fillet, the upper-fillet, or the rump, according to the standing of the catering-house which supplies it. But the nature of the piece cannot very well be mistaken, inasmuch as the term beefsteak, which designates it, is generally followed by other French words which reveal its origin, whereas in England the term “Beefsteak” does not convey any particular meaning.

Rumpsteak is either grilled or [sautéd], but whatever be the method of cooking it, it is generally served plain.

[383]
]All garnishes suited to fillets, however, may be served with it, as also the various butters and sauces generally used with grills.

[1153—LANGUE DE BŒUF]

Ox tongue is served fresh or salted, but, even when it is to be served fresh, it is all the better for having been put in salt a few days previously. In order to salt it, put it into a special brine, as explained under No. [172]. When salted, it is cooked in boiling water; when fresh, it is braised exactly after the manner of any other piece of meat.

Ox tongue may be served with almost all the garnishes suited to relevés of fillet of beef, but more particularly with the following:—Bourgeoise; Flamande; Milanaise; Noodles or Macaroni with cream, cheese or tomatoes; and all vegetable purées.

The most suitable sauces are:—Madeira sauce, Piquante sauce, Tomato sauce, or their derivatives.

[1154—LANGUE DE BŒUF CHOUCROÛTE]

Braise the tongue as described under No. [247], and glaze it at the last moment. Dish it, and send to the table separately (1) a timbale of well-braised sauerkraut; (2) a timbale of potato purée; (3) a Madeira sauce, combined with the braising-liquor of the tongue, cleared of all grease, and reduced.

[1155—LANGUE DE BŒUF BOURGEOISE]

Braise the tongue in the usual way.

When it is two-thirds cooked, surround it with carrots fashioned to the shape of olives and already two-thirds cooked, and small onions browned in butter.

Complete the cooking gently, and for the rest of the operation, proceed as for “Pièce

de Bœuf à la Mode chaude.”

[1156—LANGUE DE BŒUF AUX FÈVES]

Tongue intended for this preparation should be put in salt a few days in advance.

Boil it in the usual way and very gently; glaze it when about to serve, and dish it. Send to the table separately (1) a timbale of very fresh, skinned, broad beans, cooked in salted water with a spray of savory, and cohered with butter at the last moment.

(2) A Madeira sauce.

[1157—LANGUE DE BŒUF FLAMANDE]

Braise the tongue, and glaze it at the last moment. Surround it with the garnish “à la Flamande” given under the beef [384] ]recipe of that name, i.e., braised cabbages, glazed carrots and turnips, potatoes [à l’anglaise], rectangles of lean bacon, and roundels of sausage.

[1158—LANGUES DE BŒUF FROIDES]

Ox tongues intended for cold dishing should be kept in brine (No. [172]) for eight or ten days. When about to use them, put them to soak in cold water for a few hours, and then cook them plainly in water for three hours.

This done, withdraw them from their cooking-liquor; skin them; cover them with buttered paper, and let them cool. The object of the paper is to keep off the air, the tendency of which is to blacken the surface of the meat.

When quite cool, coat the tongues with a glaze composed of one-half lb. of gelatine dissolved in one pint of water; the latter is given a scarlet tint by means of carmine and caramel.

Cold ox tongues are dished amidst aspic jelly dice and curled-leaf parsley.

N.B.—The gelatine glaze described above will be found a great improvement upon the coating of reddened gold-beaters’ skin.

OX TAILS.

Ox tails, sectioned or unsectioned, are usually braised, and only the thicker half of the caudal appendage is ever used.

[1159—QUEUE DE BŒUF A L’AUVERGNATE]

Section the tail, and braise it in white wine, after recipe No. [247].

Prepare a garnish of rectangles of lean bacon, large chestnuts cooked in consommé and glazed, and small onions cooked in butter.

Put the sections of the tail in an earthenware cocotte with the garnish.

[1160—QUEUE DE BŒUF A LA CAVOUR]

Section the tail, and braise it in a moistening two-thirds of which is brown stock and one-third white wine. It is well for the moistening to be somewhat abundant. Set to cook very gently, until the meat falls from the bones, i.e., for a matter of about four and one-half or five hours.

This done, dish the sections of the tail in a cocotte; add some small, cooked mushrooms; clear the cooking-liquor of grease; reduce it, and thicken it slightly with fecula. Strain [385] ]this thickened cooking-liquor over the sections of the tail and the mushrooms, and set to boil very gently for ten minutes.

Serve thus in the cocotte set on a dish, and send a timbale of chestnut purée to the table at the same time.

[1161—QUEUE DE BŒUF FARCIE]

Choose a large ox tail, and bone it carefully without bursting it.

Lay it on a napkin, and stuff it with a forcemeat consisting of the following ingredients:—Three-quarters lb. of very lean beef and one-half lb. of chopped fat bacon, the two mixed with four oz. of bread-crumbs soaked in milk and pressed; two whole eggs; three oz. of truffle peel; one-half oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper, and a very little spice.

Sew up the tail, cover it with a piece of linen after the manner of a galantine, and cook it gently for three hours in a very light stock with vegetables as for boiled beef.

At the end of the three hours take it out of the linen; put it into a sautépan, the bottom of which should be garnished as for a braising; add a little of the cooking-liquor of the tail, and complete the cooking, basting often the while. Take care to baste more frequently towards the close of the operation with the view of properly glazing the meat.

When about to serve, dish it, after having removed all string, and lightly coat the bottom of the dish with a sauce consisting of the cooking-liquor, reduced and thickened with arrow-root. Send what remains of the cooking-liquor in a sauceboat.

Serve separately either a purée, a garnish of braised vegetables, or one of the sauces suited to pieces of beef.

[1162—QUEUE DE BŒUF GRILLÉE]

Cut the tail into sections twice the usual length, and cook these in a stewpan for five hours with salted water and aromatics.

Drain the sections; dry them well; dip them in melted butter, and roll them in very fine bread-crumbs. Sprinkle with melted butter, and set to grill gently.

Grilled ox tail may be served with any vegetable purée. An ordinary Soubise, or one prepared “à la Noailles,” as explained under the piece of beef of that name, also suits very well.

In any case, the Soubise should be sufficiently thick.

Such sauces as à la Diable, Hachée, Piquante, Robert, Tomato, Italienne, &c., are also suited to grilled ox tail.

N.B.—When the adjunct to grilled ox tail is a [386] ]highly-seasoned sauce, the sections should first be covered with a coat of mustard, then dipped in melted butter, and finally rolled in bread-crumbs.

[1163—QUEUE DE BŒUF EN HOCHEPOT]

Cut the tail into sections, and put these into a stewpan of convenient size, with two pig’s trotters, each of which must be cut into four or five pieces, and one pig’s ear. Cover the whole with cold water; add salt to the extent of one-third oz. per quart of the liquid; set to boil; skim, and leave to cook gently for two hours.

This done, add one small cabbage, cut into quarters, parboiled and cooled; ten small onions; five oz. of carrots, and the same weight of turnips, cut to the shape of large, garlic cloves.

Set the whole to cook for a further two hours at least.

When about to serve, dish the sections of tail in a circle; put the vegetable garnish in the centre, and surround the latter with the pig’s ear cut into small, narrow strips, and ten grilled [chipolata] sausages.

Serve, separately, a timbale of potatoes cooked [à l’anglaise].

Various Preparations of Beef.

[1164—STEWED STEAKS AND ONIONS]

Select some steaks one and one-third inches thick; fry them in butter on both sides, and set them to braise in short moistening, with a sufficient quantity of quartered and browned onions to constitute an abundant garnish.

Leave the whole to cook gently for three hours.

Dish the steak, and surround it with the onions and the braising-liquor cleared of all grease and reduced.

[1165—SALT BEEF]

The pieces of beef chiefly selected for salting are brisket, silver side, and round of beef, and these are always boiled for a more or less lengthy period, according to their size.

To the cooking-liquor is added a copious garnish of carrots and turnips. These are served with the meat, together with a sauceboat of cooking-liquor and a suet dumpling, prepared as follows:—

[1166—SUET DUMPLING]

Finely chop up some suet; add to it an equal quantity of flour and about one-quarter oz. of salt per lb. of suet and flour.

Moisten with just enough water to make a thick paste of [387] ]about the same consistence as brioche-paste. Cut this paste into portions weighing about one oz., and roll them into small balls. Put the latter in a sautépan containing some boiling beef cooking-liquor, which need not have been cleared of grease, and let them poach for one and one-half hours.

Now drain the dumplings, and arrange them around the meat with the garnish of carrots and turnips, as explained above.

[1167—COLD SALT BEEF]

Salt beef, served cold, constitutes an excellent sideboard dish for luncheons.

It need only be neatly trimmed all round, care being taken to preserve all the fat so highly esteemed by some. Indeed, a piece of cold salt fat is sometimes added to that already existing around and in the meat, in which case the extra quantity is fixed to the beef by means of a [hatelet].

[1168—PRESSED BEEF]

Salt beef also serves in the preparation of “Pressed Beef,” but, for this purpose, the breast is generally used.

After having thoroughly cooked the salted breast of beef in accordance with the procedure indicated for salt beef, cut it into large pieces of the same size as the moulds into which the meat is going to be pressed. Lay the pieces of beef one on top of another in a square or rectangular mould, and cover with a thick board, cut flush with the inside edge of the mould. Now apply pressure, either by means of a strong press or heavy weight, and leave the beef to cool under the applied pressure.

When the meat is quite cold, turn it out; trim it carefully on all sides, and glaze it, i.e., cover it entirely with a coating of rather firm, clarified gelatine, brought by means of carmine and caramel to a nice red-brown colour.

[1169—STEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING]

Cut three lbs. of very lean beef into slices one-third inch thick.

Season these slices with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and add a little chopped onion and parsley. Take a pudding-basin; line it with a firm layer of suet-dough (No. [1166]), and garnish the bottom and sides of the basin with the slices of beef.

In the middle put one lb. of kidney of beef, of veal, or of mutton, cut up as for tossing, and seasoned like the steaks. Moisten with just sufficient water to cover.

Now close up the basin with a layer of the same paste as that used in lining, pinching it with the latter, all round, that it may adhere thoroughly. In order to effect this with greater [388] ]certainty, the respective edges of the two layers of paste may be moistened.

This done, cover the basin with a buttered and dredged napkin, fastened on by means of string tied round just beneath the lip of the utensil. Cook for five hours, either in boiling water or in steam, and, after having removed the napkin, serve the pudding as it stands.

[1170—STEAK PUDDING]

Make some rather stiff paste with two lbs. of flour, one and one-quarter lbs. of the chopped fat of kidney of beef, a pinch of salt, and one-quarter pint of water.

With the rolling-pin, roll out this paste to a round layer one-quarter inch thick, and put it into a buttered dome-mould or pudding-basin.

Cut the lean beef into pieces, and season them, exactly as for steak and kidney pudding. Fill up the basin with the pieces arranged in layers; moisten with just enough water to cover, and close up the basin with a layer of the same paste as that used for its lining.

Carefully join the edges of the two layers of paste, assisting the operation with a little moisture applied by means of a brush; swathe the basin in a buttered pudding-cloth, and fasten the latter firmly with string.

Put the pudding in a saucepan of boiling water or a steamer, and leave it to cook for three hours if the beef has been cut from the fillet, and for four hours if cut from any other piece.

At the end of the required time take the pudding out of the saucepan and remove the cloth.

Dish on a folded napkin.

[1171—STEAK AND OYSTER PUDDING]

Proceed exactly as for steak and kidney pudding, but take only two lbs. of beef, and replace the odd pound by forty fine oysters.

[1172—DAUBE CHAUDE A LA PROVENÇALE]

Cut four lbs. of shoulder or cushion of beef into cubes weighing about four oz. each. Lard each piece of meat with a strip of bacon two inches long by one-half inch wide, and put the cubes or pieces into a bowl with salt, pepper, a very little spice, five or six tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and a glass of red wine. Leave to [marinade] for two or three hours, and toss the pieces, from time to time, in the marinading liquor, in order that each may be well saturated with it. Heat six oz. of [389] ]grated bacon in an earthenware stewpan, and brown therein twelve small onions, fifteen carrots in the shape of olives, two sticks of celery cut into pieces of the same size as the carrots, and four cloves of garlic. Add the [marinaded] pieces of meat, which should have been properly dried; fry the whole, meat and vegetables, for a further seven or eight minutes, and moisten with the [marinade] and two glasses more of red wine.

Complete with one-half lb. of fresh bacon rind, [blanched] and cut into square pieces of two-thirds inch side; a faggot made up of parsley stalks, thyme, bay, and, in the centre, a small piece of dry lemon rind. Set to boil, completely close the stewpan, and leave to cook in a moderate oven for six or seven hours.

When about to serve, remove the faggot, clear all grease from the gravy, and dish in a hot timbale, or serve the “daube” in the stewpan itself.

[1173—DAUBE A LA PROVENÇALE FROIDE]

A daube is rarely prepared specially for cold dishing; generally the remains of one already served hot are used.

Take the pieces, one by one, with a fork, and place them in a [terrine à pâté] with the carrots, onions, and squares of bacon rind, which have remained almost untouched.

Strain the gravy over them through an ordinary strainer, pressing lightly the while, and leave to cool.

When about to serve, turn out the daube on a cold dish, and surround with chopped aspic jelly.

[1174—CARBONNADES A LA FLAMANDE]

Cut three lbs. of lean shoulder or cushion of beef into thin, short slices. Season the latter with salt and pepper, and brown them quickly on both sides in stock fat. At the same time toss one and one-quarter lbs. of minced onions in butter, until they are well browned.

Put the slices of beef and the onions in alternate layers into a saucepan, and in their midst place a faggot.

Drain the grease from the sautépan in which the slices were fried; swill with one and one-half pints of beer (old Lambic in preference); add the same quantity of brown stock, thicken with four oz. of brown roux; finish the seasoning with one and one-half oz. of powdered sugar; set to boil, stirring the while, and strain this sauce over the slices of beef and the onions.

Cover and cook gently in the oven for from two and one-half to three hours.

N.B.—Carbonnades

are served thus, mingled with the onions; but they may also be dished in a timbale and covered [390] ]with a Soubise consisting of the onion and the sauce rubbed through tammy.

[1175—ÉMINCÉ DE BŒUF]

Cold roast or boiled meats may be warmed up in many different ways.

In their preparation, however, the reader should follow one rule, the non-observance of which invariably leads to failure.

Whatever the meat be, it should first be cut into the thinnest possible slices; set on a dish, and covered with a boiling sauce or garnish, which should effect its warming up. If the meat boil in the sauce or garnish, it toughens, and this, above all, should be avoided when roast meat is used.

Sauces suited to Émincés

are the Bordelaise, the Piquante, the Italienne, the Chasseur, the Poivrade, the Périgueux, and the Tomato.

[1176—ÉMINCÉ DE BŒUF EN MIROTON]

For one lb. of beef mince two fine onions somewhat finely, and toss them in butter until they are evenly and well [gilded].

Sprinkle with one-half tablespoonful of flour; set to cook for a moment, and then moisten with one-half glassful of white wine and one-half pint of consommé; season with a pinch of pepper; boil, and leave to cook gently for seven or eight minutes.

The flour may be dispensed with, but, in this case, the white wine is reduced to two-thirds, one-half pint of half-glaze is added, and the whole is cooked for seven or eight minutes.

Cut the beef into very thin slices, and set these on a dish.

A minute before serving, add a few drops of vinegar to the onions; cover the meat with the onions and the sauce; stand the dish for a moment on the hob, and sprinkle it slightly with chopped parsley.

N.B.—When the miroton is prepared with boiled beef, the slices should be cut somewhat more thickly, and left to simmer gently in the sauce for as long as possible

—an hour or more if necessary.

The miroton is then dished with some minced gherkins, sprinkled with raspings, and placed in the oven at the last moment for the [gratin] to form.

[1177—GOULASH DE BŒUF A LA HONGROISE]

Cut three lbs. of ribs or shoulder of beef into squares weighing about three oz. each. Fry these pieces on a moderate fire in four oz. of lard, together with one-half lb. of onions cut into large dice, until the latter acquire a nice, even, golden colour. [391] ]Season with one-third oz. of salt and the necessary quantity of paprika; add one and one-quarter lbs. of peeled, pressed, and quartered tomatoes, and one-sixth pint of water.

Cover and cook in the oven for one and one-half hours.

This done, add one-third pint of water and one and one-quarter lbs. of quartered potatoes to the Goulash.

Continue the cooking in the oven, basting often the while, and do not stop the operation until the moistening-liquor is entirely reduced. When about to serve, dish the Goulash in a timbale.

[1178—HACHIS DE BŒUF A L’AMÉRICAINE]

Cut the meat into small cubes.

Also cut into dice the same weight of potatoes as of meat.

Season these potatoes and toss them in butter.

This done, put half their quantity into a saucepan with the meat dice, and cohere the whole with a few tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce and reduced veal gravy. Heat without allowing to boil; dish in a hot timbale; distribute the remainder of the potatoes, which should be crisply fried, over the hash, and sprinkle with a pinch of freshly-chopped parsley.

[1179—HACHIS DE BŒUF PARMENTIER]

Bake some fine potatoes in the oven.

The moment they are done, slice off a piece of their baked shell, and remove the pulp from their insides by means of a spoon handle.

Crush this pulp with a fork, and toss it in butter as for “pommes de terre Macaire.” Then add to it as much beef in dice as there is pulp; two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion cooked in butter per lb. of the preparation; a pinch of chopped parsley, and a few drops of vinegar. Now toss the whole together for a few minutes, and then fill the empty potato shells with the preparation.

Sprinkle with Lyonnaise sauce rubbed through tammy, and add as much of it as the hash will absorb.

Replace the portion of shell cut off at the first, that the potatoes may seem untouched; arrange them on a dish, and put the latter in the oven for ten minutes. When about to serve, dish the stuffed potatoes on a napkin.

[1180—TRIPES A LA MODE DE CAEN]

In the preparation of this culinary speciality of Normandy, a very common mistake is often made; to wit, that of using calves’ feet instead of those of the ox, an innovation to which there are many objections.

[392]
]In the first place, the gravy of the tripe cannot absorb so much gelatine, and is indifferently thickened in consequence; secondly, since calves’ feet are much more tender than those of the ox, the former get boiled to shreds before the cooking of the tripe has been properly effected. This supposed improvement on the old method is thus seen to actually run counter to the end in view; but means there are, nevertheless, whereby those who insist upon the use of calves’ feet may be satisfied. It is only necessary to braise a number of calves’ feet beforehand, the number being in proportion to the quantity of tripe, and to add these to the latter a quarter of an hour before serving.

Another mistake which obtains somewhat widely in respect of this dish is the serving of it in a silver utensil—a method quite as unreasonable as that of serving a Chaudfroid in an earthenware dish.

By virtue of its simplicity, tripe should be served in either sandstone or special earthenware stewpans, wherein heat is best retained; and the operator should rather direct his attention to the serving of tripe as hot as possible, than to this or that fanciful method of dishing, which really has no raison d’être in this case.

The Preparation of Tripe.—Under the head of “beef tripe” are understood: (1) The feet; (2) tripe proper, which comprises the Paunch, the Honey-comb Bag, the Manyplies, and the Reed.

First soak the tripe in cold water for some considerable time; then cut it into squares of two inches side.

For the seasoning and flavouring of tripe, complete in all its parts, take: (Seasoning) one-quarter oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper per lb.; (flavouring) four lbs. of onions stuck with four cloves; three lbs. of carrots; one faggot, comprising two lbs. of leeks, one-third lb. of parsley stalks, a sprig of thyme, and a bay leaf.

Moisten with two quarts of good cider (not likely to turn black while cooking, otherwise use water); one-half pint of brandy or liqueur-cider.

The quantity of the moistening-liquor largely depends upon the shape of the utensil; a little less will be needed in the case of a narrow one, and a little more in the case of a wide one.

In any case, however, the tripe should be just covered.

Treatment and Cooking-process.—Take a stewpan or braising-pan, just large enough to hold the tripe and the garnish.

On the bottom of this lay carrots, onions, seasoning, and the four ox feet, bound and cut into fair-sized pieces.

[393]
]Add the tripe, placing the faggot in its midst; upon the tripe lay the bones of the feet, broken lengthwise; some slices of beef-fat, well soaked in cold water; and, finally, the moistening.

Cover the whole with a kind of [galette] of paste, consisting of flour mixed with hot water and kept somewhat stiff, and fix the paste well on to the edges of the utensil.

Place in the oven, and, when about two hours have elapsed and the paste is well baked, close the utensil with its own cover.

In a regular and moderate oven, allow about ten hours for the cooking.

The Dishing and Serving.—After taking the tripe out of the oven, remove the cover of paste, the bones, the fat, the carrots, the onions, and the faggot, and by means of a slice withdraw the pieces of tripe and set them in the special earthenware bowls, taking care to distribute the pieces, coming from different portions of tripe, in such wise as to meet the demands or fancies of the various consumers.

When the tripe has been transferred to the bowls, clear the gravy of all grease, and dole it out evenly among the number of receptacles. It is best, now, to put the latter in a [bain-marie], for they must only be served quite hot, on chafers or otherwise.

N.B.—(1) To make the dish to perfection, the tripe should be put into special earthenware pots (wherein the heat is more effectively concentrated), and cooked in a baker’s or pastry-cook’s oven.

I dealt with the alternative of cooking tripe in a stewpan in order to make provision for those who can avail themselves of neither special pots nor a baker’s oven.

(2) The measures I prescribe, namely, those of first laying the slices of beef-fat upon the tripe, and then covering the whole with a lid of paste, are intended to stop a too rapid evaporation of the liquid—a contingency that must be guarded against, more particularly in a kitchen oven—and to preserve the whiteness of the tripe.

The cover of paste would be quite useless if a baker’s oven were available, for the latter not only ensures perfectly regular heat, but also wanes regularly.

[394]
]2. VEAL.

With the exception of veal sweetbreads, it cannot be denied that this meat is considerably less popular in England than abroad, nor does it ever seem to appear on important menus in this country.

Of course, and the fact must not be lost sight of, English veal is admittedly inferior in quality—badly fattened, and mostly red, soft, and dry. Probably, therefore, its unpopularity may be the indirect cause of its poor quality; for it is inconceivable that a country so famous for cattle-rearing as England undoubtedly is could not produce veal equal in quality to its beef, mutton, and pork, if rearers thought it worth their while to perfect that special branch of their business. Be this as it may, almost all the best veal consumed in England comes from the Continent, principally from France, Belgium, and Holland; and, in this respect, I not only refer to the larger joints, but to those odd parts such as the head, the liver, the sweetbreads, &c., the continental quality of which is likewise very superior to that of the English produce.

[1181—SELLE DE VEAU (Relevé)]

Saddle of veal is the only Relevé of this meat which is sometimes allowed to appear on an important menu, and it is, in fact, a splendid and succulent joint.

It may be roasted, but I should urge the adoption of the braising treatment, not only as a precaution against dryness, but because of the fine stock yielded by the operation.

Whatever be the method of cooking, trim the saddle on one side, flush with the bones of the pelvis, and up to the first ribs on the other side. Then cut out the kidneys, leaving a thick layer of fat on the under fillets or “filets mignons”; pare the flank on either side, in such wise that what is left of it, when drawn under the saddle on either side, may just cover the fillets above referred to. This flank should only be drawn over the fillets after the inside of the joint has been salted; then cover the top surface of the joint with slices of bacon, and tie round with string, five or six times, that the bacon and the flank may not shift.

When the saddle is intended for only a small number of people, half of it may be used at a time; that is to say, one fillet, in which case the joint may be cut in two, lengthwise.

The procedure for braising this piece is in pursuance of the directions given under “The Braising of White Meats” (No. [248]).

[395]
]The process of braising, whether it be in respect of the saddle or other veal Relevés, such as the cushion, the loin, the neck, &c., demands particular care, must be accompanied by frequent basting, and should always be carried on with short moistening.

[1182—SELLE DE VEAU A LA CHARTREUSE]

Braise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment, after having removed the slices of bacon. Set it on a long dish, and, at each end of the latter, place a chartreuse of vegetables.

Round the joint put a few tablespoonfuls of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced, and well-strained; and serve what remains in a sauceboat.

Chartreuses of Vegetables.—Take two dome- or Charlotte-moulds, capable of holding two-thirds of a quart. Butter them liberally; line them with buttered paper, and on the latter, over the bottom and sides of the utensil, lay carrots, turnips, peas, and French beans; each of which vegetables should be cooked in a way suited to its nature. This operation, which is somewhat finicking, may either be effected on the plan of a draught-board, or the different vegetables may be superposed in alternate rows of varying colours.

When the moulds are garnished in this way, spread thereon, over the vegetables, a layer of forcemeat softened with beaten white of egg; the object of this measure is to keep the vegetable decoration in position, and this is effected by the poaching of the forcemeat before the chartreuse is filled with its garnish.

This done, fill the moulds to within one-third inch of their brims with a [Macédoine] of vegetables cohered by means of stiff Béchamel and cream, and cover with a layer of forcemeat.

Set these chartreuses to poach thirty-five minutes before serving, and take care to let them rest for five minutes before unmoulding them on either side of the saddle.

[1183—SELLE DE VEAU A LA METTERNICH]

Braise the saddle, and, when it is ready, put it on a dish. Now draw a line within one-half inch of its extreme edge on either side and end, pressing the point of a small knife along the meat in so doing.

Proceed in the same way on either side of the chine, and remove the fillets from the joint, severing them from the bone with care.

Cut the fillets into regular collops, keeping the knife somewhat at a slant.

In the double cavity left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls of Béchamel with paprika; return the colloped fillets [396] ]to their respective places in the joint, reconstructing them in such wise as to make them appear untouched; and between the collops pour one-half tablespoonful of Béchamel and lay two slices of truffle.

This done, cover the whole surface of the joint with Béchamel sauce with paprika, and set to glaze quickly at the salamander. Now, with a large slice, carefully transfer the saddle to a dish.

Serve separately (1) the braising-liquor of the saddle, cleared of all grease and reduced; (2) a timbale of pilaff rice.

[1184—SELLE DE VEAU A LA NELSON]

Braise the saddle. When it is ready, remove the fillets, proceeding exactly as described under “Selle à la Metternich,” and cut the fillets in a similar manner.

In the cavities left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls of Soubise; return the colloped fillets to their place, and, between the collops, place a thin slice of ham, of the same size and shape as the adjacent piece of meat, and a little Soubise sauce.

Having reconstructed the joint, cover its surface with a layer, about one inch thick, of “[Soufflé au Parmesan],” combined with one quart of truffle purée.

Bind the joint with a strong band of buttered paper, for the purpose of holding in the [soufflé], and set it to cook in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. After having taken the saddle out of the oven, remove the paper band, and send it to the table without changing the dish.

Send the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced and strained, to the table separately.

[1185—SELLE DE VEAU A L’ORIENTALE]

Braise the saddle; remove the fillets, and cut them into collops as for “Selle à la Metternich.” Garnish the cavities with Soubise sauce “au currie”; reconstruct the fillets, putting a little of the same sauce between the collops, and coat the surface of the piece with the sauce already referred to.

Surround the joint with braised celery, and serve its cooking liquor and a timbale of pilaff rice separately.

[1186—SELLE DE VEAU A LA PIÉMONTAISE[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Braise the saddle, and cut the fillets into collops as before. When reconstructing the fillets, between the collops put a little Béchamel sauce, combined with three and one-half oz. of grated Parmesan and three and one-half oz. of grated white truffles per quart of the sauce.

[397]
]Coat the surface of the joint with the same sauce, and set to glaze quickly.

Serve the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and strained, separately; as also a timbale of rizotto à la Piémontaise (No. [2258]).

[1187—SELLE DE VEAU PRINCE ORLOFF]

Braise the saddle and proceed as above, placing between the collops of fillet a little Soubise sauce and a fine slice of truffle.

Coat the surface of the joint with Mornay sauce, combined with one quart of highly-seasoned Soubise, and set to glaze quickly.

N.B.—This saddle may be accompanied either by a garnish of asparagus-heads or by cucumbers with cream.

[1188—SELLE DE VEAU A LA ROMANOFF]

Braise the saddle; remove the fillets, and cut the latter into collops as for “Selle à la Metternich.” Reconstruct the fillets, placing a small quantity of minced mushrooms, cohered by means of a few tablespoonfuls of cream, between the collops, and coat the surface of the joint with highly-seasoned Béchamel sauce, finished with four oz. of crayfish butter per quart.

Surround the piece with a border of braised half-fennels. Serve the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced and strained, separately.

[1189—SELLE DE VEAU A LA TOSCA]

Braise the saddle, and then prepare it as for No. [1183]. Almost completely fill the cavities left by the fillets with a garnish of macaroni, cut into short lengths, cohered with cream, and combined with a [julienne] of truffles.

Reconstruct the fillets upon this garnish and coat the collops with Mornay sauce, placing a slice of truffle between the collops. The reconstructed fillets thus appear raised on either side of the chine.

Coat the surface of the joint with the same sauce as that already used, and set to glaze quickly. Send the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and strained, to the table separately.

[1190—SELLE DE VEAU A LA RENAISSANCE]

Braise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment. Dish it and surround it with a large heap of cauliflower at either end; on either side, nice heaps of carrots and turnips, raised by means of an oval, grooved spoon-cutter, cooked in consommé and glazed; peas; French beans in lozenge-form; asparagus-heads [398] ]cohered with butter; and some small potatoes cooked in butter.

Send the braising-liquor of the joint, cleared of grease and strained, separately.

[1191—SELLE DE VEAU A LA TALLEYRAND]

Prepare twenty studs of truffle, about one inch long and one-third oz. in weight. Stick them upright and symmetrically into the meat of the joint, making way for them by means of little incisions cut with a small knife. Now envelop the joint in slices of larding bacon, string it, braise it, and glaze it at the last moment.

Dish it with some of its braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and reduced.

Serve separately (1) what remains of the braising-liquor; (2) a garnish of macaroni, cut into half-inch lengths, cohered with one and one-half oz. of butter, three oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan, combined with three oz. of foie gras, cut into large dice, and three oz. of a [julienne] of truffles, per lb. of macaroni.

[1192—SELLE DE VEAU FROIDE]

Cold saddle of veal makes an excellent sideboard dish which admits of all cold-dish garnishes, such as [Macédoines] of vegetables cohered with jelly or mayonnaise sauce; artichoke-bottoms and tomatoes, variously garnished; small, moulded vegetable salads, &c.

Decorate it with fine, regular, jelly dice; but its usual and essential adjunct is its own braising-liquor, cooked, cleared of grease poured carefully away, and served in a sauceboat without having been either clarified or cleared.

All the pieces of veal given as relevés, the cushion, the loin, the fillet, and the fricandeau, may be served cold like the saddle, and are generally much appreciated, more particularly in summer.

[1193—LOIN OF VEAL]

[1194—NECK OF VEAL]

[1195—SHORT LOIN OF VEAL]

[1196—CHUMP OF VEAL OR QUASI]

[1197—CUSHION OF VEAL (Relevés)]

I have grouped these various Relevés together owing to the identicalness of their garnishes.

The directions I give below for cushion of veal are, with a very few exceptions which I shall point out, applicable to all other large veal joints. In the circumstances, therefore, it would be quite unnecessary to repeat the recipe in each case.

[399]
]Loin of Veal is that piece which corresponds with the sirloin in beef. It extends from the floating ribs to the extreme end of the haunch, the latter being cut flush with the pelvic bone at its junction with the femur, and following the direction of the former bone. The loin thus consists of two distinct parts:—(1) the caudal region (called the chump end; Fr. quasi), which comprises the bones of the pelvis and the haunch, up to the level of the latter, and is one of the best pieces of veal for braising; and (2) the region extending from the haunch to the floating ribs, comprising the fillet and the upper fillet. This last portion also constitutes a choice joint, to which the kidneys are generally left attached, after all their superfluous fat has been removed.

Neck or Best End of Veal consists of the first eight or nine ribs, cut two inches above the kernel of meat. The ends of the rib-bones are cleared of meat to a height of about two-thirds inch, and the naked bone is then called the “handle” of the cutlet, which ultimately holds the ornamental frill of paper.

The vertebræ are then suppressed, so that the bones of the ribs alone remain; the yellow ligament is cut away; and the bared parts are covered with slices of bacon, tied on by means of string.

Cushion of Veal consists of an enormous muscle, which represents almost half of the haunch and all the inside part of it, from the pelvis to its junction with the tibia. A certain quantity of white fat will always be found to lie over the cushion, and it should be carefully reserved.

If the cushion is to be larded, a procedure which I do not advise, it should be done on the bared part adjoining the fat-covered region.

The various pieces of veal enumerated above may be roasted, but, as in the case of the saddle, I prefer braising, owing to the greater succulence of the dish resulting from this process, and its accompanying gravy, which has an incomparable flavour. (See Braising of White Meats, No. [248].)

[1198—ADJUNCTS TO CUSHION OF VEAL]

Cushion of veal, like the other large pieces of veal, admits of an almost unlimited number of vegetable garnishes, simple or compound, as also garnishes of various pastes.

From among these garnishes the following may be quoted, viz.:—Bouquetière, Bourgeoise, [Chartreuse], Choisy, Chicorée, Cardoons, Clamart, Braised Celery, Japanese Artichokes, Chow-chow, Endives, Spinach, Braised Lettuce, à la Vichy, à la Nemours, &c.; Jardinière, [Macédoine], Renaissance, &c.

[400]
]Among the paste garnishes:—Noodles, Macaroni, Spaghetti, variously prepared; various Gnocchi, &c.

And, in addition to all these, the garnishes already given under Beef Relevés, which need not be repeated here.

I shall, therefore, give only three recipes which are proper to cushion of veal; though even these should be regarded as mere curiosities, seeing that, far from recommending them, I consider them rather as gastronomical mistakes. But some provision must be made for outlandish tastes, and, for this reason alone, I include the following recipes.

[1199—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE]

Braise the cushion of veal, keeping it somewhat firm. This done, set it on a dish, and let it almost cool.

Then cut a slice from it laterally, at a point one-third inch of its height from the top; and, within one-half inch of its edges, make a circular incision, pressing the point of a sharp knife into the meat, and withdraw the centre of the cushion. Take care to leave the same thickness of meat on the sides as on the bottom, that is to say, about one-half inch. The cushion of veal, thus emptied, should have the appearance of a round or oval case.

If the meat withdrawn from the centre of the cushion is to serve for the garnish, or is to be used sliced to surround the case, cut it from out the whole in the largest possible pieces, in order that slices may easily be cut therefrom.

The inside of the emptied cushion of veal is then garnished according to fancy; the top of the piece that was cut off at the start is returned to its place, with the view of giving the piece an untouched appearance, and the whole is put in the oven for a few minutes that it may be hot for serving.

The braising-liquor, cleared of grease and strained, should be sent to the table separately.

[1200—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA MACÉDOINE]

Braise the cushion of veal, and hollow it out as explained above.

Meanwhile (1) prepare a [Macédoine] garnish, or mixed Jardinière (cohered with butter or cream), the quantity of which should be in proportion to the size of the case; (2) cut the meat, withdrawn from the centre of the cushion, into thin rectangles.

Garnish the bottom of the case with a layer of [Macédoine], and set thereon a litter consisting of the rectangles of meat. Cover with [Macédoine]

; set thereon another litter of the pieces [401] ]of meat, and renew the operation until the case is filled. Finish up with a layer of [Macédoine].

Replace the slice cut from the cushion at the start; put the case in the oven for a few minutes; serve, and send the braising-liquor separately.

[1201—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA PITHIVIERS]

Braise the cushion of veal, and prepare the case as directed above.

Stuff fifteen larks without boning them; that is to say, put a lump of stuffing about the size of a hazel-nut into each. Fry them in butter with one-half lb. of mushrooms and three oz. of truffles, each of which vegetables should be raw and minced. Cohere the whole with the necessary quantity of half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game essence; put this garnish in the case; return the sliced piece to its place; seal the cover to the case by means of a thread of almost liquid forcemeat, and set in the oven for seven or eight minutes.

When taking the case out of the oven, surround with the withdrawn meat, which should have been cut into thin slices and kept warm until required for the dressing.

The larks may be replaced by quails or thrushes, or other small birds, but the name of the particular bird used must be referred to in the title of the dish.

[1202—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA TOULOUSAINE]

Braise the cushion and cut it to the shape of a case as explained above. Pour therein a garnish consisting of quenelles of chicken forcemeat; lamb sweetbreads, or collops of veal sweetbreads, braised without colouration; cocks’ combs; small mushrooms, cooked and very white; and slices of truffle; the whole to be cohered by means of an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence.

Return the piece sliced off at the start to its place, and surround with slices of the meat withdrawn from the inside of the cushion.

N.B.—All the garnishes suited to Vol-au-vent and timbales may be served with cushion-of-veal case, which latter thus stands in the stead of the Vol-au-vent and Timbale crusts.

Finally, I must ask the reader to bear in mind that methods like those described above have no place in really good cookery, the ruling principle of which should always be simplicity.

[1203—NOIX DE VEAU FROIDE A LA CAUCASIENNE]

Cut a cold cushion of veal into slices two inches long by one-half inch wide by one-sixth inch thick.

[402]
]On each slice spread a little butter seasoned with salt and pepper, combined with finely-chopped chives and anchovy fillets cut into dice.

Couple the slices together as for sandwiches; round off their angles and put them under slight pressure. Prepare a Purée of tomatoes with jelly; mould it in a dome- or Bombe-mould, and let it set on ice.

When this moulding of tomatoes is quite firm, turn it out in the middle of a round, cold dish; arrange the meat slices all round, and border the dish with cubes of very clear veal jelly.

[1204—NOIX DE VEAU FROIDE A LA SUÉDOISE]

(1) From the widest part of a cold cushion of veal, cut a lateral slice one and one-third inch thick, and trim it nicely round.

(2) Let a coating of aspic jelly set on the bottom of a round dish, and upon this jelly, when it is quite firm, lay the slice of veal.

(3) Cut what remains of the piece of veal into slices two inches long, by one and one-half inch broad, by one-eighth inch thick. Prepare the same number of rectangles of salted tongue, of the same size, though slightly thinner than those of veal.

(4) Cohere a nice vegetable salad with cleared mayonnaise; mould it in an oiled, Bombe-shaped or narrow pyramid mould, and put it on ice to set.

Coat the rectangles of veal with horse-radish butter; place a rectangle of tongue on each, and finish off these sandwiches by rounding their corners.

For Dishing.—By means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, garnish the edges of the slice of veal with a thread of previously softened butter.

Turn out the vegetable salad in the centre of the piece of meat; set on it the heart of a small lettuce (nicely opened), and arrange the veal and tongue sandwiches all round.

Serve a cold sauce, derived from the mayonnaise, separately.

[1205—LONGES, CARRÉS[!-- TN: acute invisible --] ET NOIX DE VEAU FROIDS]

What was said in respect of cold saddle of veal likewise applies to the different pieces mentioned in the above title. They may be coated with aspic jelly and dished with [Macédoines] of vegetables, cohered with jelly; small salads, cohered with cleared mayonnaise; garnished artichoke-bottoms, &c.

The dishes should always be bordered with cubes of very clear jelly.

[403]
][1206—FRICANDEAU (Relevé)]

Fricandeau is a lateral cut from the cushion of veal; that is to say, a piece cut with the grain of the meat. It should not be thicker than one and one-half inches.

After beating it with a beater or the flat of a chopper, to break the fibres of the meat, finely lard the piece of meat on the cut side with strips of bacon, somewhat smaller than those used for fillet of beef. Only when the piece is larded may it be called “Fricandeau”; for, when not treated thus, it is nothing else than an ordinary piece of veal. Fricandeau is invariably braised; but it differs from other braisings of white meat in this, namely, that it must be so cooked as to be easily cut with a spoon. Connoisseurs maintain that Fricandeau should never be touched with a knife.

It is glazed at the last moment, like other braisings, and, in view of its prolonged cooking, should be dished with great care.

All the garnishes enumerated for cushion of veal may be adapted to Fricandeau.

[1207—FRICANDEAU FROID]

Cold fricandeau constitutes an excellent luncheon dish. It is dished and surrounded with its braising-liquor, cleared of grease and strained. This braising-liquor sets to a jelly, and is the finest adjunct to fricandeau that could be found.

The piece may be glazed with half-melted jelly, smeared over it by means of a brush.

[1208—POITRINE DE VEAU FARCIE]

This is really a family dish, admirably suited for a luncheon relevé. It is accompanied chiefly by vegetable purées, but all the vegetable and other garnishes given under Cushion of Veal may be served with it.

Breast of veal is prepared thus:—After having boned the piece, open it where it is thickest, without touching the ends. A kind of pocket is thus obtained, into which put the previously-prepared stuffing, taking care to spread it very evenly.

Now, with coarse cotton, sew up the opening, and remember to withdraw the cotton when the piece is cooked.

Stuffing for Breast of Veal.—For a piece weighing four lbs., add to one lb. of very fine sausage-meat (No. [196]), two oz. of dry duxelles, two oz. of butter, a pinch of chopped parsley, tarragon and chives, a small beaten egg, and a little salt and pepper.

Cooking.—Breast of veal is usually braised; the moistening [404] ]should be short and the cooking process gentle. For a piece weighing four lbs. when stuffed, allow three hours in a moderate and regular oven. Glaze breast of veal at the last moment, as in the case of other braised meats.

[1209—TÊTE DE VEAU (Relevé and Entrée)]

Nowadays, calf’s head is rarely served whole, as was the custom formerly. Still more rarely, however, is it served at a dinner of any importance; and it has now, by almost general consent, been relegated to luncheon menus where, indeed, it has found its proper place.

After having boned the head, soak it or hold it under a running tap, for a sufficiently long time to allow of its being entirely cleared of blood. Then, [blanch] it for a good half-hour; cool it in cold water; drain it, and rub it with a piece of lemon to avoid its blackening.

If it is to be cooked whole, as sometimes happens, wrap it in a napkin, that it may be easily handled; if not, cut it into pieces. In either case, plunge it immediately into a boiling blanc (No. [167]).

With a view of keeping the calf’s head from contact with the air, which would blacken it, cover it with a napkin, or cover the liquid with chopped suet. A layer of chopped suet is the best possible means of keeping the air from the calf’s head.

Whatever be the method of serving calf’s head, it is the rule to send slices of tongue and collops of brain to the table with it.

The tongue may be cooked simultaneously with the head, and the brain is poached as described under No. [1289].

[1210—TÊTE DE VEAU A L’ANGLAISE]

Calf’s head à l’anglaise is cooked in a blanc, as explained above; but in halves and unboned.

Dish it on a napkin with sprays of very green parsley and a piece of boiled bacon.

Send a sauceboat of parsley sauce (No. [119a]) to the table at the same time.

[1211—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA FINANCIÈRE]

Cook the calf’s head in a blanc as already directed. Suppress portions of the meat, where the latter is thick, in such wise as to leave only a very little on the skin.

Cut off

pieces into squares of one, two or three in. side; [405] ]put them in a timbale, and cover them with a financière garnish; adding a few small slices of tongue and brain.

[1212—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA POULETTE]

Cook the calf’s head in a blanc.

Cut the pieces of the head into small slices, somewhat aslant, and toss them into a previously-prepared poulette sauce (No. [101]).

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.

[1213—TÊTE DE VEAU EN TORTUE]

With a round cutter one, two, or three in. in diameter, cut up the pieces of calf’s head, the meat of which must be entirely suppressed. For this preparation, only the skin of the head should be used.

Put the pieces of head in a timbale or on a dish, and cover them with a Tortue garnish.

Tortue garnish consists of: Small quenelles of veal forcemeat with butter; cock’s combs and kidneys; small mushrooms; stoned, stuffed and poached olives; slices of truffle; gherkins cut to the shape of olives (these should only be put into the sauce at the last moment); and Tortue sauce.

This garnish comprises, besides, among unsauced ingredients: Slices of tongue and calf’s brain; small, trussed crayfish, cooked in court-bouillon; fried eggs, the half of whose raw whites should be suppressed; and small [croûtons] of bread-crumb, fried in butter at the last moment.

[1214—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA VINAIGRETTE OU A L’HUILE]

Set the boiling pieces of calf’s head on a napkin, lying on a dish. Surround them with slices of tongue, collops of brain, and sprigs of very green, curled-leaf parsley.

Serve separately, on a hors-d’œuvre dish, without mixing them, capers, chopped onion and parsley.

Send to the table at the same time a sauceboat of vinaigrette or sauce à l’huile, prepared by mixing one part of vinegar, two parts of oil, and one part of the calf’s-head cooking-liquor, together with the necessary salt and pepper.

[1215—ESCALOPES DE VEAU]

Collops of veal may be cut from either the fillet or the saddle; but they are more often cut from the cushion. Their weight varies from three to four oz., and they should always be cleared of all connective tissue. They may be fashioned to the shape of ovals, or curve-based triangles, and they should [406] ]be more or less flattened, according to their use. Thus, when they are to be plainly tossed, to be afterwards served with a sauced garnish or with a sauce, they are simply beaten in order to break the fibres of the meat, without flattening the latter too much; but if, on the contrary, they are to be treated [à l’anglaise], they should be beaten very thin with the moistened beater.

In either case, they should be cooked somewhat quickly in clarified butter; for, if their cooking lag at all, their meat hardens.

All the garnishes of veal cutlets, and a large number of those of the cushion, may be served with the collops. These garnishes may be set on the same dish with the collops when the latter are plainly tossed; but, in the case of collops treated [à l’anglaise], the garnish or sauce which accompanies them should be served separately, lest its moisture soften the crisp coating of the collops.

[1216—GRENADINS]

Grenadins are veal collops larded with rows of very thin bacon strips, and cut somewhat thicker than ordinary collops. They are really small fricandeaux, the braising of which is a comparatively lengthy operation; for their cooking must be the same as that of the fricandeaux, and needs quite as much attention. In order that the grenadins be not too dry, they should be frequently basted with their braising-liquor.

When they are cooked, glaze them rapidly, and dish them with one of the garnishes given for the cushion of veal.

[1217—GRENADINS FROIDS EN BELLEVUE]

This dish may be prepared in several more or less complicated ways; here is a simple way:—

Take as many shell-shaped hors-d’œuvre dishes as there are grenadins. Let a thin coat of jelly set on the bottom of each, and set thereon a slight decoration composed of bits of carrot, turnip, peas, French beans in lozenge-form, &c. Put a grenadin, larded side undermost (i.e.

, upside down) into each hors-d’œuvre dish; add enough melted aspic jelly to reach half-way up the thickness of the grenadin.

When this jelly has set, lay on it, all round the grenadin, a border consisting of carrots, turnips, French beans and peas. Sprinkle these vegetables with a few drops of jelly, so as to fix them, and keep them from floating, and then fill up the hors-d’œuvre dishes with jelly.

When about to serve, dip the hors-d’œuvre dishes into hot [407] ]water; turn out the grenadins on a very cold dish, and arrange them on it to form a crown.

Surround with a border of very clear, chopped aspic jelly.

[1218—RIS DE VEAU (Sweetbreads)]

Veal sweetbreads may be looked upon as one of the greatest delicacies in butchers’ meats, and may be served at any dinner, however sumptuous. Select them very white, entirely free of blood stains, and leave them to soak in fresh water, which should be frequently changed, for as long as possible; or, better still, place them under a running tap.

To [blanch] them (an operation the purpose of which is to harden the surface) put them in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover them completely, and bring to the boil gently. Let them boil for ten minutes; withdraw them and plunge them into a basin of fresh water.

When the sweetbreads are cold, trim them; that is to say, cut away all cartilaginous and connective tissue; lay them between two pieces of linen, and put them under a light weight for two hours.

Now lard them with fine bacon, tongue or truffle, subject to the way in which they are to be served. They may also be studded with either tongue or truffles, or they may be left unlarded and unstudded, and plainly braised, just as they are.

Certain it is, that neither studding nor larding enhances in any way whatsoever their quality or sightliness.

Veal sweetbread consists of two parts, as unequal in quality as in shape. They are: the “kernel” or heart sweetbread, which is the round and most delicate part, and the “throat,” or throat sweetbread, which is the elongated part, and not of such fine quality as the former.

In a well-ordered dinner, heart sweetbreads only should be used, as far as possible.

There are three ways of cooking sweetbreads, viz.:—Braising (No. [248]), poaching (No. [249]), and grilling (No. [259]). In the following recipes, therefore, the reader will kindly refer to the directions given under one of the numbers just mentioned, according as to whether the dish is to be a braising, a poaching, or a grill.

[1219—ATTEREAUX DE RIS DE VEAU A LA VILLEROY]

Cut some veal sweetbreads (preferably the throat kind) into roundels one and one-third in. in diameter and one-third in. thick. Prepare an equal number of mushrooms and truffle roundels, somewhat thinner than those of sweetbread.

[408]
]Impale these roundels on little wooden skewers, the size of matches, and about four in. long; alternating the different products in so doing. Dip these skewers into a Villeroy sauce, and set them on a dish. When the sauce is quite cold, remove the attereaux; clear them of any superfluous sauce that may have fallen on to the dish; dip them in an anglaise (No. [174]); roll them in very fine and fresh bread-crumbs, and turn them with the fingers, so as to shape them like small cylinders. Plunge them into plenty of hot fat eight minutes before serving; drain them on a piece of linen; carefully withdraw the wooden skewers and put little silver ones in their place. Dish the attereaux on a folded napkin, with fried parsley in the centre; or set them upright in a circle, on a rice or semolina cushion lying on a dish, and put some very green, fried parsley in the middle.

Serve a Périgueux sauce separately.

[1220—CHARTREUSE DE RIS DE VEAU]

Prepare (1) one and one-quarter lbs. of fine forcemeat with cream (No. [194]); (2) two poached, veal throat sweetbreads, cut into slices; (3) one-half lb. of cooked mushrooms, cut into large slices, and three oz. of sliced truffles; (4) a garnish of carrots and turnips, raised by means of a tube- or spoon-cutter, or cut into grooved roundels two-thirds inch in diameter; and peas and French beans. Each of these vegetables should be cooked in a way befitting its nature, and kept somewhat firm.

Liberally butter a quart Charlotte-mould. Line its bottom and sides with the vegetables, arranged in alternate and vari-coloured rows, and spread thereon a layer of forcemeat, one-half inch thick.

This done, set upon the layer of forcemeat just spread, another of slices of sweetbread, mushrooms, and truffles; cover the whole with a coat of forcemeat; start the operation again with a litter of sweetbread, mushroom, and truffle slices, and proceed as before until the mould is filled. Finish with a layer of forcemeat. Cover with a round piece of buttered paper, and set to poach in a [bain-marie] and in the oven, for from forty-five to fifty minutes.

When taking the chartreuse out of the [bain-marie], let it stand for seven or eight minutes, that the ingredients inside may settle a little, and then turn it out in the middle of a round dish; place a large, cooked, grooved, and very white mushroom on the top of it, and encircle its base with a crown of small braised and well-trimmed half-lettuces.

[409]
]Send to the table, separately, a sauceboat of Velouté flavoured with mushroom essence.

[1221—RIS DE VEAU BONNE MAMAN]

Cut the vegetables intended for the braising stock into a short and coarse [julienne], and add thereto an equal quantity of similarly-cut celery.

Braise the veal sweetbreads with this [julienne], after the manner described under No. [248], and moisten with excellent veal stock. Take particular care of the vegetables, that they do not burn.

When the sweetbreads are ready, glaze them and dish them in a shallow, round cocotte with the [julienne] of vegetables and the braising-liquor all round.

Cover the cocotte, and serve it on a folded napkin.

[1222—CRÉPINETTE[!-- TN: acute invisible --] DE RIS DE VEAU]

For this dish take either some white throat sweetbreads, or some remains of the latter, from which slices have already been cut.

Chop up the throat sweetbreads or the remains, together with their weight of raw calf’s udder.

Season with one-half oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper; add five oz. of chopped truffles and two whole eggs per lb. of the mince-meat. Mix the whole well; divide it up into portions weighing three oz., and wrap each portion in a piece of very soft pig’s caul.

Sprinkle with melted butter and bread-crumbs, and grill gently.

Dish in the form of a crown, and serve a Périgueux sauce at the same time.

[1223—RIS DE VEAU A LA CÉVENOLE]

Braise the veal sweetbreads and glaze them at the last moment.

Dish them with a heap of small glazed onions at either end, and serve, at the same time, a purée of chestnuts and a sauceboat of thickened gravy.

[1224—RIS DE VEAU DEMIDOFF]

Lard the sweetbreads with bacon and truffles; braise them brown, and only half-cook them. Then place them in a shallow cocotte, and surround them with the following garnish:—Two oz. of carrots and the same weight of turnips, both cut into grooved crescents; an equal quantity of small onions, cut into large roundels, and some celery cut [paysanne-fashion]. All these vegetables should be first stewed in butter.

[410]
]Add the braising-liquor of the sweetbreads, and one oz. of minced truffles, and complete the cooking of the former. Clear of all grease and serve in the cocotte.

[1225—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU BÉRENGÈRE]

Braise the veal sweetbreads and cut each piece into four medium-sized slices. Trim each slice with an even, oval fancy-cutter; and, by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe, one-sixth inch in diameter, garnish the edge of each slice with a thick border of [mousseline] forcemeat, combined with chopped salted tongue. Set the slices on a tray, and put them in a moderate oven to poach the forcemeat.

Now, by means of another piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, garnish the centre of the slices with a nice rosette of fine and very white Soubise purée; and, in the middle of each rosette, place a little ball of very black truffle.

Set each slice on a thin, oval [croûton] of the same size as the former and fried in butter. Serve at the same time, in a sauceboat, the braising-liquor of the sweetbreads, cleared of all grease, and a timbale of fresh peas.

[1226—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU A LA FAVORITE]

[Blanch] the veal sweetbreads; cool them under pressure, and cut them into slices. Season the latter and toss them in clarified butter.

At the same time, toss an equal number of slices of foie gras of the same size as those of the sweetbread, after having seasoned and dredged them.

Dish in a circle, alternating the foie gras and the sweetbread slices; put a crown of sliced truffle on the circle already arranged; and, in the centre, pour a garnish of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.

Send, separately, a Madeira sauce flavoured with truffle essence.

[1227—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU GRAND DUC]

[Blanch] and cool the sweetbreads, and cut them into slices. Season the latter and cook them in butter without colouration. Dish them in the form of a crown, placing a large slice of truffle between each; coat with Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly.

When taking the dish out of the oven, arrange a heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter, in the middle of the dish, and serve instantly.

[411]
][1228—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU JUDIC]

[Blanch] and cool the sweetbreads, and cut them into slices.

Prepare and poach a roll of chicken forcemeat, large enough to allow of slices being cut therefrom of the same size as those of the sweetbreads.

Season, dredge, and toss the slices of sweetbread in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown, each on a roundel of the poached chicken forcemeat.

On each slice place a very small, braised, and well-trimmed lettuce, a slice of truffle, and a cock’s kidney.

Send a sauceboat of thickened gravy separately.

[1229—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU A LA MARÉCHALE]

Braise the veal sweetbreads, keeping them somewhat firm, and cut them into slices.

Treat the latter [à l’anglaise]; brown them in clarified butter, and dish them in a circle, placing a fine slice of truffle between each.

In the middle of the dish arrange a fine heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.

[1230—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉS]

After having [blanched], cooked, and trimmed the sweetbreads, set them to get quite cold under pressure. Then cut them in two, laterally, at their thickest point; dip each piece into melted butter, and grill gently, basting frequently the while with melted butter.

The sweetbreads may also be grilled whole, but the process is perforce a more lengthy one.

[1231—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉS[!-- TN: acute invisible --] CARMAGO]

Cook a brioche, without sugar, in a fluted mould, the aperture of which is a little larger than the veal sweetbreads. Carefully remove the top of the brioche, following the direction of the fluting, and withdraw all the crumb from the inside.

Fill this kind of [croustade], two-thirds full, with a garnish consisting of peas, prepared “à la française,” and carrots “à la Vichy,” in equal quantities.

Set the grilled veal sweetbreads on this garnish, and cover it with slices of grilled bacon.

Dish on a napkin and serve at once.

[1232—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉ[!-- TN: acute invisible --] GISMONDA]

Prepare a shallow [croustade], without colouration, in an oval flawn ring of the same length as the veal sweetbread. Grill the veal sweetbread after the manner already described.

[412]
]Garnish the bottom of the [croustade] with equal quantities of artichoke-bottoms and mushrooms, minced raw, tossed in butter, and cohered with cream sauce.

Set the grilled sweetbread on the garnish, and place the [croustade] on a folded napkin.

Serve, separately, a slightly buttered meat-glaze.

[1233—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉ[!-- TN: acute invisible --] JOCELYNE]

Cut some potatoes into roundels one and one-half inch thick and of the same size as the veal sweetbread. Stamp the roundels, close up to their edges, with a round, even cutter, and cook them in butter. Grill the sweetbread at the same time.

When the potatoes are cooked, withdraw all their inside in such wise as to give them the appearance of cases, and fill them with Soubise prepared with curry.

Dish them and set the grilled sweetbread upon them. On the sweetbread lay a small half-tomato and a green half-capsicum, both grilled.

[1234—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉS[!-- TN: acute invisible --] SAINT-GERMAIN]

[Blanch], prepare, and grill the veal sweetbreads as already explained. Set them on a long dish, and surround them with alternate heaps of small potatoes cooked in butter and of a nice golden colour, and carrots cut to the shape of elongated olives, cooked in consommé and glazed.

Serve a Béarnaise sauce and a purée of fresh peas, separately.

[1235—RIS DE VEAU DES GOURMETS]

Braise the veal sweetbreads, and, as soon as they are ready, set them in a round, flat cocotte, just large enough to hold them. Cover them with raw truffles, cut into thick slices; strain the braising-liquor over the whole; cover the cocotte, and seal the cover to the edges of the utensil by means of a thread of soft paste, made simply from a mixture of flour and water.

The object of this last precaution is to prevent any escape whatsoever of steam, and to hold the aroma of the truffles within.

Put the cocotte into a very hot oven for ten minutes; set it on a dish, and serve it as it stands. The cover should be removed only when the dish reaches the table.

[1236—RIS DE VEAU AUX QUEUES D’ÉCREVISSES]

Stud the sweetbreads with truffle and braise them without colouration. Dish them, and, on either side, set a heap of crayfishes’ tails (in the proportion of four to each person), cohered with cream.

[413]
]At either end place some crayfishes’ carapaces (in the proportion of two to each sweetbread), garnished with chicken forcemeat combined with crayfish butter, and poached.

Serve, separately, an Allemande sauce prepared with crayfish butter.

[1237—RIS DE VEAU A LA RÉGENCE]

Stud the sweetbreads with truffles, and braise them without colouration.

Dish them; pour their reduced braising-liquor round the dish, and surround them with a Régence garnish, arranged in alternate heaps representing the constituents of the former, which are: quenelles of fine truffled chicken forcemeat; small grooved mushrooms; curled cocks’ combs, and truffles cut to the shape of olives. Serve separately an Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence.

[1238—RIS DE VEAU SOUS LA CENDRE]

Stud the veal sweetbreads with truffles and tongue, and three-parts braise them.

Cut some slices of salted tongue of the same size as the sweetbreads, garnish them with slices of truffle, and set a sweetbread on each.

Cover each sweetbread with a layer of short paste (No. [2358]); set them on a tray; [gild]; flute; make a small incision on the top of the paste to allow the escape of steam, and bake in a hot oven for thirty minutes.

When withdrawing them from the oven, pour in some half-glaze sauce with Madeira, and dish them on a napkin.

[1239—RIS DE VEAU A LA TOULOUSAINE]

Stud the sweetbreads with truffles and braise them without colouration.

Dish them with the Toulousaine garnish, arranged in heaps all round, and surround the latter with a thread of meat-glaze.

Toulousaine garnish comprises small chicken-forcemeat quenelles; cocks’ combs and kidneys; very white button-mushroom heads, and slices of truffle.

Serve, separately, an Allemande flavoured with mushroom essence.

[1240—CROUSTADE DE RIS DE VEAU A LA FINANCIÈRE]

Prepare (1) the required number of small, fluted [croustades], baked without colouration in rather large tartlet moulds. (2) The same number of slices of braised veal sweetbread as there are [croustades], and of the same size. (3) A financière garnish, consisting of very small chicken-forcemeat quenelles; grooved [414] ]button-mushrooms, and sliced cocks’ combs and kidneys. The whole covered by half-glaze with Madeira, in the proportion of one tablespoonful per [croustade]. (5) As many fine slices of truffle as there are [croustades].

Put a tablespoonful of the garnish into each [croustade]; set thereon a slice of sweetbread; put a slice of truffle upon that, and dish the [croustades] on a folded napkin.

[1241—PÂTÉ[!-- TN: circumflex invisible --] CHAUD DE RIS DE VEAU]

Butter an ordinary round hot raised pie, or a Charlotte-mould. Take about one and one-half lbs. of short paste and roll it into [galettes], one-third inch thick; fold the paste over after having dredged it slightly; draw the two ends gently towards the centre, to form a kind of skullcap, which, when placed in the mould, immediately lines the latter. Avoid making folds in the paste while preparing the skullcap, for they would spoil the look of the patty when turned out.

Press the paste on the bottom and sides of the mould, that the latter may impart its shape to its lining, and cut the projecting paste to within half inch of the brim. Now coat the bottom and sides of the mould with a layer of chicken forcemeat, of an even thickness of two-thirds of an inch.

Pour into the centre of the mould a garnish composed of slices of poached veal sweetbread; sliced and cooked mushrooms and sliced truffles; the whole covered with reduced and somewhat stiff Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence.

Cover the garnish with a coating of forcemeat, and close the patty with a layer of paste, the edges of which should be moistened and sealed down all round the brim of the mould. Pinch the rim of paste inside and outside, and finish off with leaves of paste stamped out with a fancy-cutter, ribbed by means of the back of a knife, and laid upon the paste cover. [Gild] with beaten egg; make a central slit for the escape of steam, and set to bake in a hot oven, for from forty-five to fifty minutes.

When taking the patty out of the oven, turn it out and dish it on a napkin.

[1242—TIMBALE DE RIS DE VEAU]

Butter a timbale mould and decorate its sides with thin pieces of noodle paste, in the shape of lozenges, crescents, indented rings, discs and imitation-leaves. Excellent ornamental arrangements may be effected thus; but the reader should bear in mind that the simplest are the best.

Prepare a skullcap of paste as explained under No. [1241]; [415] ]slightly moisten the ornamental work in the mould, that it may cling to the paste of the timbale, and line the latter with paste which should be well pressed in all directions, that it may take the shape of the mould.

Then pierce the paste on the bottom, to prevent its blistering during the baking process; line the bottom and sides with buttered paper, and fill the timbale, three-quarters full, with split peas or lentils.

Cover the latter with a round piece of paper, and close the timbale by means of a round layer of paste, which should be sealed down round the edges. Make and trim the crest of the timbale; pinch it inside and out, and finish the cover, by means of applied imitation-leaves of paste, superposed to form a kind of dome.

Set in a moderate oven, and when the timbale is baked, remove its cover with the view of withdrawing the lentils or peas and the paper, the sole object of which was to provide a support for the cover. Besmear the inside of the timbale with a brush dipped in the beaten white of an egg; keep it for a minute or two in front of the oven, with the view of drying it inside; turn it out, and spread upon its bottom and sides a very thin coat of chicken or ordinary forcemeat, the purpose of which is to shield the crust from the softening effects of the juices of the garnish.

Put the timbale in the front of the oven for a moment or two, that this coating of forcemeat may poach.

Garnish.—Veal sweetbreads, braised without colouration and cut into collops; small mushrooms; cocks’ combs and kidneys; small quenelles of chicken, [mousseline] forcemeat, or roundels of chicken forcemeat rolls one-third inch thick, trimmed with the fancy-cutter; and slices of truffles, half of which should be kept for the purposes of decoration.

Cover this garnish with Allemande sauce, prepared with mushroom essence. Pour it into the timbale, just before serving; upon it set the reserved slices of truffle, in the form of a crown; replace the cover; dish upon a folded napkin, and serve.

N.B. (1) As already stated the garnish of the timbale may be cohered with a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with Madeira or truffle essence.

(2) In this garnish, whether it be cohered by means of a white or brown sauce, the slices of veal sweetbreads are always the principal ingredient; but, subject to the circumstances, the other details may be altered or modified.

[416]
][1243—VOL AU VENT DE RIS DE VEAU]

Vol au vent, which formerly held the place of honour on bourgeois menus, has now fallen somewhat into the background; nevertheless, I wished it to appear among the recipes in this work.

The preparation of the paste: Make the vol au vent crust as explained under No. [2390].

Garnish.—Prepare it exactly as explained under “Timbale de ris de Veau.” This garnish may also be cohered with a brown sauce, and its minor ingredients may be modified; but the slices of veal sweetbread must always stand as the dominating element.

Whatever be the selected kind of garnish, vol au vent should always be accompanied by medium-sized, trussed crayfish, cooked in court-bouillon.

Dishing.—Set the vol au vent crust upon a dish covered with a napkin; pour the garnish into it; decorate with slices of truffle; arrange the crayfish round the edge, and lay the cover upon the crayfish.

[1244—RIS DE VEAU A LA RICHELIEU]

Braise the veal sweetbreads exactly as described under “Ris de Veau Bonne Maman,” taking care to keep the braising-liquor sufficiently plentiful to well cover the sweetbreads in the cocotte.

When the sweetbreads are in the cocotte, together with the [julienne] of vegetables and a [julienne] of truffles, strain the braising-liquor over the whole; leave to cool well, and, when the liquid has turned to a jelly, remove the grease that has risen to the surface.

Dish the cocotte on a napkin.

[1245—RIS DE VEAU A LA SUÉDOISE]

Poach the veal sweetbreads without colouration, and, when they are quite cold, cut them into thin and regular collops. Spread some horse-radish butter over the latter, and cover with a slice of tongue of the same size as the underlying collop.

Bake a crust without colouration in a flawn ring, of a size in proportion to the number of slices, and garnish it with a vegetable salad cohered with mayonnaise. This crust must necessarily be made in advance.

Upon the salad now set the collops, either in the form of a crown or in that of a small turban; in the middle place a fine lettuce heart, the leaves of which should be slightly opened out.

[417]
][1246—PALETS DE RIS DE VEAU] [A L’ÉCARLATE]

Poach the sweetbreads; when they are cold, cut them into collops half-an-inch thick, and trim them with a round, even cutter. Stamp out some roundels of salted tongue with the same cutter, but let them be only one-eighth inch thick, and twice as many as the collops of veal sweetbread.

Coat the latter, on either side, with butter prepared with mustard; and cover with a roundel of tongue.

Set the prepared collops on a tray; let the butter harden, coat with jelly, and deck the middle of each quoit with a fine slice of truffle.

Arrange the quoits in a circle on a round dish; put some chopped jelly in the centre, and border the dish with very regularly-cut jelly dice.

Serve a horse-radish sauce and an Italian salad separately.

Calf’s Liver.

Calf’s liver is served chiefly as a breakfast or luncheon entrée.

Nevertheless, in ordinary menus, it is sometimes served as a relevé, braised and whole.

[1247—FOIE DE VEAU BRAISÉ A LA BOURGEOISE]

Lard the piece with large, seasoned strips of bacon, as for “Bœuf à la Mode.” Brown it slightly in the oven, and then put it into a saucepan garnished for braising. (No. [247].)

Moisten with one pint of white wine, and reduce it completely. This done, moisten again with brown stock, adding one pint of Espagnole sauce per quart of the moistening.

It is sufficient if the moistening and the sauce reach a little above the middle of the piece of liver.

When the cooking is two-thirds completed, transfer the liver to another saucepan; surround it with carrots, shaped like elongated olives and half-cooked in consommé; and some small onions, half-cooked in butter.

The amount of this garnish of carrots and onions should naturally be in proportion to the size of the piece of liver.

Strain the sauce over the whole, and complete the cooking gently in the oven. Dish the liver with the carrots and onions all round; reduce the sauce if necessary, and pour it over the garnish.

N.B. The latter need not be arranged symmetrically.

On the contrary simplicity should be made a feature of these bourgeois dishes.

[418]
][1248—FOIE DE VEAU A L’ANGLAISE]

Cut the calf’s liver into fairly thin slices, from two-and-a-half oz. to three oz. in weight. Season them with salt and pepper; dredge them, and toss them in butter. Grill an equal number of rashers of bacon.

Dish the slices of liver and the rashers of bacon alternately, and sprinkle them with the butter in which the liver was cooked, or with a brown butter.

[1249—BROCHETTES DE FOIE DE VEAU]

Select a pale piece of calf’s liver and cut it into square pieces two-thirds of an inch thick. Season with salt and pepper, and toss the pieces in butter, just to stiffen them.

Put them into a basin with an equal quantity of [blanched] salted breast of pork, cut into squares, and of slices of cooked mushrooms. Add a few tablespoonfuls of stiff Duxelles sauce, and toss the whole together, that each particle of the various ingredients may become coated with Duxelles.

This done, impale the squares of liver and pork and the slices of mushrooms upon a ringed skewer, alternating them in so doing; sprinkle copiously with fine raspings and melted butter, and set to grill gently.

These brochettes are served, either on a maître-d’hôtel butter, or on a Duxelles, Fines Herbes, an Italian or other sauce.

[1250—FOIE DE VEAU A L’ESPAGNOLE]

Cut the calf’s liver into slices weighing three and a half oz.; season these with salt and pepper; dredge them; sprinkle them with oil, and grill them gently.

Meanwhile, prepare:—(1) As many grilled half-tomatoes as there are pieces of liver; (2) onions cut into thin roundels, seasoned, dredged, and fried in oil; (3) a proportionate quantity of fried parsley.

Arrange the grilled slices of liver along the centre of an oval dish; place a half-tomato upon each; and, on one side, set the fried onions, on the other, the fried parsley.

[1251—FOIE DE VEAU SAUTÉ[!-- TN: acute invisible --] AUX FINES HERBES]

Cut the calf’s liver into slices, as above; season these with salt and pepper; dredge them, and toss them in butter.

Arrange the slices in a circle on a round dish; and either pour the herb sauce over the slices, or serve it separately.

[1252—PAIN DE FOIE DE VEAU]

For a calf’s liver loaf made in a quart mould: Cut one lb. of calf’s liver into dice, and finely pound these together with [419] ]one-third oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Add, little by little, five oz. of very cold frangipan

panada, and two eggs.

Rub through a sieve; put the forcemeat in a bowl; work it over ice, and finish it with two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, cooked in butter, without colouration; the yolks of two eggs, and quarter pint of thick cream, added by degrees.

Pour this forcemeat into a well-buttered quart Charlotte-mould; knock the latter gently on a folded serviette, with the view of settling its contents, and put it to poach in the oven in a [bain-marie], for about forty-five minutes.

When taking the loaf out of the oven, let it stand for five minutes, that the forcemeat inside may thoroughly settle; turn it out on a round dish, and cover it with a Duxelles, Italienne, Bordelaise, brown caper, or other sauce.

[1253—CÔTES DE VEAU]

Veal cutlets may either be grilled or [sautéd], but the second method of cooking them is, in most cases, preferable.

When they are [sautéd], the cutlets should be cooked in clarified butter, over a somewhat fierce fire and in a utensil large enough to hold them without crowding.

This done, dish them; pour away the butter in which they have been cooked; swill the saucepan, i.e., dissolve the concentrated gravy adhering to the sides and bottom of it with a liquid in keeping with the garnish; either mushroom cooking-liquor, white or red wine, or Madeira, etc.; and add this swilling-liquor, reduced, to the accompanying sauce. The latter is generally a buttered half-glaze, but the best adjunct to veal cutlets is a pale meat glaze, moderately buttered.

All vegetable and paste garnishes, given under Cushion of Veal, suit veal cutlets. I must therefore beg the reader to refer to those recipes, as circumstances may dictate; and restrict myself to a few formulæ which, in my opinion, are suited more particularly to veal cutlets.

[1254—CÔTE DE VEAU A LA BONNE FEMME]

Put the veal cutlet into an earthenware saucepan, with one and one-half oz. of butter, and brown it well on both sides. Add six small onions cooked in butter, three oz. of potatoes cut into roundels; and complete the cooking gently in the oven, keeping the saucepan covered.

Serve the preparation in the saucepan as it stands.

[420]
][1255—CÔTE DE VEAU EN CASSEROLE]

Heat one oz. of butter in an earthenware saucepan; insert the veal cutlet, seasoned, and cook it gently, taking care to turn it over from time to time.

At the last moment, add a tablespoonful of excellent veal gravy, and serve in the saucepan.

[1256—CÔTE DE VEAU EN COCOTTE A LA PAYSANNE]

Toss the veal cutlet in butter, in the cocotte, with two small slices of [blanched] salted breast of pork. Add four small onions, and two small, long potatoes, cut [paysanne-fashion]; and complete the cooking of the cutlets and the garnish very gently in the oven.

Send the preparation to the table in the cocotte.

[1257—CÔTE DE VEAU A LA DREUX]

Stud the kernel of the veal cutlet with tongue, ham and truffle, and cook it gently in butter. This done, trim it to the quick on both sides, that the studding may be clean and neat; dish it with a frill on the bare bone, and, beside it, arrange a small garnish of quenelles, mushrooms, cocks’ combs and kidneys, and turned and [blanched] olives.

Pour a little half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, over the garnish.

[1258—CÔTE DE VEAU MILANAISE]

With a moistened butcher’s beater, flatten the meat in suchwise as to reduce it to half its normal thickness. Dip the veal cutlet into beaten egg; roll it in bread-crumbs, mixed with half as much grated Parmesan, and cook it in clarified butter, or butter and oil in equal quantities.

Dish it with a frill on the bare bone, and the garnish beside it.

Milanaise garnish consists of cooked macaroni, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and cohered with butter, grated Gruyère and Parmesan cheeses, and very red tomato purée; and combined with a [julienne] of very lean cooked ham, salted tongue, mushrooms and truffles, heated in Madeira.

[1259—CÔTE DE VEAU PAPILLOTE]

Toss the veal cutlet in butter, and prepare, meanwhile:—

(1) Two tablespoonfuls of Duxelles sauce, combined with a cooked and sliced mushroom.

(2) Two heart-shaped slices of ham, of about the same size as the cutlet.

(3) A doubled sheet of strong paper, cut to the shape of a heart and well-oiled.

[421]
]Spread out the sheet of paper, and, in the middle thereof, lay a slice of ham; spread a tablespoonful of Duxelles on the latter; put the cutlet on the sauce; cover it with the remainder of the Duxelles, and finish with the other slice of ham.

Fold the sheet of paper so as to enclose the whole; pleat the edges nicely; put the cutlet on a tray, and blow out the papillote in a fairly hot oven. When taking it out of the oven, transfer it to a dish, and serve instantly.

[1260—CÔTE DE VEAU POJARSKI]

Completely separate the meat of the veal cutlet from the bone; clear it of all skin and gristle, and chop it up with half its weight of butter, salt and pepper. Mass this mince-meat close up to the bone, shaping it like a cutlet, and cook the whole in clarified butter, turning it over very carefully in the process.

Dish with a suitable garnish.

[1261—CÔTE DE VEAU ZINGARA]

Cook the veal cutlet in butter; at the same time prepare a slice of raw ham, cut to the shape of the cutlet, and likewise tossed in butter.

Dish the cutlet; set the slice of ham upon it, and surround with a few tablespoonfuls of Zingara sauce.

Zingara sauce is prepared thus: Reduce a few tablespoonfuls of white wine and mushroom cooking-liquor to half. Add one-fifth pint of half-glaze, two tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, one tablespoonful of veal stock, one oz. of a [julienne] of tongue, mushrooms and truffles; and set to boil for a few seconds.

[1262—CÔTE DE VEAU FROIDE EN BELLE VUE]

Let a little jelly set in a utensil somewhat resembling a cutlet in shape. Trim the veal cutlet; decorate it with various little vegetables, and sprinkle the latter with half-melted jelly, so as to fix them.

Put the cutlet on the layer of set jelly, inside the utensil, and let it lie with its decorated side undermost.

Add enough jelly to cover the cutlet, and let the former set.

This done, pass the blade of a small knife (dipped in hot water) round the cutlet; set the utensil for a moment upon a napkin dipped in hot water, turn out the cutlet with care, and set it on a cold dish, with a border of chopped aspic, and a frill on the bone.

[422]
][1263—CÔTE DE VEAU FROIDE RUBENS]

Trim the veal cutlet; coat it with half-melted aspic, and cover it with young hop shoots, cohered with tomato sauce cleared by means of aspic.

Let the sauce thoroughly set, and then put the cutlet between two layers of aspic as explained above.

N.B. Cold veal cutlets may also be served Belle-vue fashion, after the very simple manner described under “Grenadins en Belle-vue” (No. [1217]).

[1264—ROGNON DE VEAU]

When [sautéd] after the usual manner, veal kidney admits of all the preparations given for sheep’s kidney. (See the chapter on Mutton.)

I shall now, therefore, only give those recipes which are proper to veal kidney.

[1265—ROGNON DE VEAU EN CASSEROLE]

Trim the veal kidney and only leave a very slight layer of fat all round it.

Heat one oz. of butter in a small, earthenware saucepan, also called “cocotte”; put the seasoned kidney into the latter, and cook it gently for about thirty minutes, taking care to turn it often the while.

At the last minute sprinkle it with a tablespoonful of good veal gravy. Serve it in the cocotte as it stands.

[1266—ROGNON DE VEAU EN COCOTTE]

Prepare the veal kidney and fry it in butter, as in the case of the “[en casserole]” dish. Surround it with one and one-half oz. of small pieces of [blanched] bacon, tossed in butter; one and one-half oz. of raw, quartered mushrooms, also tossed, and one and one-half oz. of small [blanched] potatoes, of the size and shape of garlic cloves, and the same quantity of small, glazed onions. Complete the cooking of the whole gently.

At the last minute, add a tablespoonful of good, veal gravy, and serve the cocotte as it stands.

[1267—ROGNON DE VEAU GRILLÉ[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Trim the veal kidney, and leave a slight layer of fat all round it. Cut it in half lengthwise, without completely separating the two halves, and impale it on a small skewer, with the view of keeping it in shape.

Season with salt and pepper, and grill it gently; basting it often the while with melted butter.

[423]
]Send separately, either a Maître-d’hôtel, a Bercy, or other butter suited to grills.

[1268—ROGNON DE VEAU A LA LIÉGEOISE[!-- TN: original reads "LIÈGEOISE" --]

Prepare the veal kidney as for “[en casserole].” One minute before serving, add one small wineglassful of burned gin, two crushed juniper berries, and one tablespoonful of good veal gravy. Serve in the cooking-utensil.

[1269—ROGNON DE VEAU A LA MONTPENSIER]

Trim the veal kidney, leaving a slight coating of fat all round it, and cut into five or six slices. Season the latter, toss them in butter over a brisk fire, and transfer them to a plate.

Swill the saucepan with one tablespoonful of Madeira, and add thereto three tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze, a few drops of lemon juice, one and one-half oz. of butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley.

Dish the pieces of kidney, or set them in a timbale; sprinkle them with the sauce, and in their midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and one and one-half oz. of truffle slices.

[1270—ROGNON DE VEAU PORTUGAISE]

Cut up the veal kidney, and toss it in butter, after the manner described under No. [1269].

Dish the pieces in a circle on a dish; set a very small, stuffed half-tomato upon each, and garnish the centre of the dish with a very reduced tomato [fondue]. Surround the kidney with a sauce prepared as directed above.

[1271—ROGNON DE VEAU A LA ROBERT]

Heat one oz. of butter in a small cocotte; put the seasoned veal kidney therein; fry it over a brisk fire, and set it to cook in the oven for about fifteen minutes. Serve the kidney as it leaves the oven, and complete the procedure, at the table, in the following manner:—

Transfer the kidney to a hot plate. Place the cocotte on a spirit lamp; pour into the former one glassful of excellent liqueur brandy, and reduce to half. Meanwhile, quickly cut the kidney into extremely thin slices, and cover these with an overturned plate.

Add to the reduced liqueur brandy one coffeespoonful of mustard, one oz. of butter cut into small pieces, the juice of a quarter of a lemon, and a pinch of chopped parsley; and work the whole well with a fork, with the view of effecting the leason.

Put the sliced kidney into this sauce, together with the [424] ]gravy that has drained from it; heat the whole well, without boiling, and serve on very hot plates.

[1272—TENDRONS DE VEAU]

The tendrons are cut from breast of veal. They are, in fact, the extreme ends of the ribs, including the cartilage of the sternum.

If the tendrons are braised, treat them after the manner described under “The Braising of White Meats” (No. [248]); or, simply stew them in butter; moisten them with excellent veal stock, and baste them frequently while cooking them. They may also be treated like an ordinary veal [sauté], from which they only differ in shape, and the various preparations of which may be adapted to them.

The garnishes best suited to them are those of early-season vegetables, and, as a matter of fact, the latter, together with such pastes as noodles, macaroni, spaghetti, etc., are the garnishes most often served with them.

[1273—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU A L’ANCIENNE]

Cut the veal tendrons into pieces weighing about three oz. Then, slightly [blanch] them; cool them, and put them into a saucepan with enough white stock to cover; add a very little salt; set to boil, and skim.

For two lbs. of tendrons, add one small carrot; one fair-sized onion, stuck with a clove; a faggot, consisting of one leek, parsley stalks, and a fragment of thyme and bay; and set to cook gently for one and one-half hours.

Prepare a white roux from one and one-half oz. of butter and one and one-half oz. of flour; moisten with one pint of veal cooking-liquor; add one oz. of mushroom parings, and cook for a quarter of an hour, despumating the sauce the while.

Transfer the pieces of tendron, one by one, to a sautépan with twelve small onions cooked in consommé, and fifteen small, cooked and very white mushrooms. Finish the sauce with a leason of two egg-yolks, mixed with three tablespoonfuls of cream and a few drops of lemon juice; strain it over the veal and its garnish; heat without boiling; dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.

N.B. This blanquette may also be prepared with noodles or [cèpes], instead of with ordinary mushrooms.

[1274—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AUX CÉLERIS, CARDONS, ETC.]

Prepare the blanquette exactly as explained above, and set it to cook with the veal and the vegetable selected for the garnish, [425] ]i.e., either small heads of celery cut into two or four, or cardoons, cut into pieces and well [blanched]. The endives are not [blanched]; they need only be well washed and put with the veal.

When cooked, drain the vegetables, trim them, and dish them in a timbale with the veal and the sauce; the latter prepared as directed and strained over the meat.

[1275—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AUX NOUILLES]

Proceed as for “Blanquette à l’ancienne,” but suppress the garnish of onions and mushrooms.

When the blanquette is dished, set thereon heaps of noodles, parboiled and cohered with butter, and cover these with raw noodles tossed quickly in butter; allow three oz. of tossed noodles per lb. of those cohered.

[1276—FRICASSÉE DE VEAU]

Fricassée differs from blanquette in this, namely, that the pieces of veal in the former are stiffened in butter without colouration.

When the meat has been well stiffened, besprinkle it with about one oz. of flour per lb.; cook this flour with the meat for a few minutes; then moisten the fricassée with white stock; season, and set to boil, stirring the while. All the garnishes of mushrooms and vegetables given for blanquette may be served with fricassée; but in the case of the latter, both the meat and the garnish are cooked in the sauce, the leason of which is effected by means of egg-yolks and cream, as for blanquette.

[1277—FRICADELLES]

Fricadelles are a kind of meat balls, somewhat like those commonly prepared in private households. They are made from raw or cooked meat, in the following manner:—

Fricadelles with Raw Meat.—For ten fricadelles, each weighing three and one-half oz., chop up one lb. of very lean veal, cleared of all fat and gristle, together with two-thirds of a lb. of butter. Put the whole into a bowl, and add thereto five oz. of soaked and well-pressed crumb of bread, two eggs, half an oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper and a little nutmeg, and two oz. of chopped onion cooked in butter without colouration.

Mix the whole well, and divide it up into portions weighing three and one-half oz.

Fashion these portions to the shape of quoits, by first rolling them into balls on a flour-dusted board, and afterwards flattening them out with the flat of a knife.

Heat some butter or very pure fat in a sautépan; put the [426] ]fricadelles therein; brown them on both sides, and then complete their cooking in the oven.

This done, set them on a round dish, and serve them, either with a vegetable purée, a Piquante or a Robert sauce.

Fricadelles with Cooked Meat.—For ten fricadelles, each weighing two and one-half oz., chop one lb. of cooked veal, fat and lean, somewhat finely.

Put it into a bowl with a large pinch of salt, another of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Add the pulp of three fair-sized potatoes, baked in the oven; three oz. of chopped onions, cooked in butter without colouration; one large egg, and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Mix well; divide up into portions of the weight already given, and shape and cook them as in the previous case.

These fricadelles are served with vegetable purées and the sauces suited to those prepared from raw meat.

[1278—PAUPIETTES DE VEAU]

[Paupiettes] or scrolls are made from extremely thin slices of veal, four in. long by two in. wide. After having seasoned them, cover them with forcemeat or very fine mincemeat; roll them, with their forcemeat-coat inside, into scrolls, and tie them round, once or twice, with string, that they may keep their shape while cooking. They are sometimes covered with thin rashers of bacon. [Paupiettes] are always braised, gently and protractedly.

They are generally garnished with vegetable purées; but they may be served just as well with all vegetable garnishes.

By making them half the usual size, they may, after having been braised, serve as the garnish for a timbale, together with noodles, gniokis, spaghetti, or with Financière, Milanaise or Napolitaine garnish, etc.

[1279—SAUTÉS DE VEAU]

The pieces best suited to veal [sautés] are: the breast and the shoulder, as also those parts of the haunch other than the cushion and undercushion.

[1280—SAUTÉ DE VEAU A LA MARENGO]

Heat one pint of oil in a sautépan, until it smokes. Put therein two lbs. of veal, cut into pieces, each weighing two oz., and fry until the latter are well set. Add a chopped half onion and a crushed half-clove of garlic, and fry again for a few moments.

Drain away the oil, tilting the sautépan with its lid on, for [427] ]the purpose; moisten with a quarter of a pint of white wine; reduce, and add two-thirds of a quart of thin Espagnole sauce, one and one-half lbs. of tomatoes, pressed and cut into pieces (or one pint of tomato sauce), and a faggot.

Set to boil, and cook in the oven gently for one and one-half hours.

At the end of that time, transfer the pieces of veal, one by one, to another saucepan with fifteen small glazed onions, and five oz. of mushrooms. Reduce the sauce; strain it over the veal and its garnish, add two large pinches of [concassed] parsley, and cook for a further quarter of an hour.

When about to serve, clear of all grease, dish in a timbale, and surround with small heart-shaped [croûtons] of bread-crumb, fried in oil.

[1281—SAUTÉ DE VEAU CHASSEUR]

Cut the veal into pieces as above, and fry these well in butter or oil.

Drain away the grease; moisten with one quart of brown stock, add two tablespoonfuls of tomato purée, and a faggot; set to boil, and cook in the oven gently for one and one-half hours.

Transfer the pieces to another saucepan; strain; reduce their cooking-liquor by a quarter, and add it to one-quarter of a pint of Chasseur sauce (No. [33]).

Pour this sauce over the pieces of veal, and cook again for a quarter of an hour. Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

[1282—SAUTÉ DE VEAU PRINTANIER]

Fry the pieces of veal in butter. Moisten with two-thirds of a quart of brown stock and one-fifth of a pint of half-glaze; add a faggot; boil, and cook in the oven gently for one hour.

This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan; add thereto a garnish of carrots, new turnips, and small, new potatoes; strain the sauce over the veal and the garnish, and cook for a further three-quarters of an hour.

Dish in a timbale and distribute over the [sauté] a few tablespoonfuls of peas and French beans in lozenge-form, both cooked [à l’anglaise].

[1283—SAUTÉ DE VEAU A LA CATALANE]

Cut up, [sauté], and cook the veal gently for one and one-half hours, as for No. [1280].

Transfer the pieces of veal to another saucepan, and add [428] ]to them three small peeled and pressed tomatoes, quartered and tossed in butter; ten small onions cooked in butter; six oz. of raw, quartered mushrooms; ten chestnuts, three-parts cooked in consommé, and eight [Chipolata] sausages.

Reduce the sauce to one-third of a pint; strain it over the veal and its garnish; cook for a further quarter of an hour, and dish in a timbale.

[1284—SAUTÉS[!-- TN: acute invisible --] DE VEAU DIVERS]

Veal [sauté] may also be prepared with mushrooms, fines herbes, egg-plant, tomatoes, or “Currie à l’Indienne,” etc.

[1285—PAIN DE VEAU]

Prepare “Pain de Veau” exactly as directed under No. [1252]; but substitute for the liver some very white veal.

Pain de veau is generally accompanied by a white sauce, such as velouté prepared with mushroom essence, Allemande sauce prepared with mushrooms, Suprême sauce, etc.

[1286—CALF’S FEET]

Calf’s feet serve chiefly in supplying the gelatinous element of aspics, and the body of braising stock. They are rarely used in the preparation of a special dish; but, should they be so used, they may be cooked and served after the manner directed in the recipes treating of calf’s head.

[1287—CALVES’ TONGUES]

Provided the difference of size be allowed for, calf’s tongue may be prepared like ox tongue, and served with the same garnishes. (See Ox Tongue, Nos. [1153] to [1158] inclusive.)

[1288—CALF’S BRAINS AND AMOURETTES]

Calf’s brains form the most wholesome and reparative diet for all those who are debilitated by excessive head-work; and the same remark applies to the brains of the ox and the sheep.

The amourettes mentioned here, which almost always accompany ox brains, are only the spinal marrow of the ox or the calf. This may be used in the preparation of a few special dishes; but all the recipes dealing with brains may be applied to it.

[1289—THE COOKING OF BRAINS]

Carefully remove the membrane enveloping the brains or the [amourettes], and put them to soak in fresh water, until they are quite white. Put the brains in a saucepan with enough boiling [429] ]court-bouillon (No. [163]) to cover them well; skim and then set to cook gently.

Brains have this peculiarity, namely, that prolonged cooking only stiffens them; thus, calf’s brains only take half an hour to cook; but they may cook for two hours more without harm, seeing that the process only tends to make them firmer.

[1290—CERVELLE A LA BEAUMONT]

Cut the brains into slices; on each slice put a layer of gratin force-meat (No. [202]) prepared from foie gras and softened by means of a little cold, brown sauce, and a slice of truffle. Reconstruct the brains by putting the coated slices together again.

Roll some puff-paste remains into a [galette] one-fifth of an inch thick, the diameter of which should be in proportion to the size of the brains under treatment. Put the brains in the middle of the [galette], and cover them with the same forcemeat as that laid on the slices; sprinkle with chopped truffles; moisten the edges of the paste, and draw these over the brains so as to enclose the latter completely.

[Gild]; make a slit in the top for the escape of steam, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. After taking the pie out of the oven, pour a few tablespoonfuls of Périgueux sauce into the former, and dish on a napkin.

[1291—CERVELLE AU BEURRE NOIR]

Slice the brains; set the slices on a dish, and season them with salt and pepper.

Cook two oz. of butter in the frying-pan until it is slightly blackened; throw therein a pinch of parsley [pluches], and sprinkle the brains with this butter. Pour a few drops of vinegar into the burning frying-pan, and add it to the brains.

[1292—CERVELLE AU BEURRE NOISETTE]

Slice and season the brains as above. Cook the butter until it has acquired a golden colour and exhales a nutty smell; pour it over the brains, and finish with a few drops of lemon juice and a pinch of chopped parsley.

[1293—CERVELLE A LA MARÉCHALE[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Cut the brains into regular slices, one-third of an inch thick; treat them [à l’anglaise] with very fine bread-crumbs, and brown them in clarified butter.

Dish them in the form of a circle, with a slice of truffle on each, and garnish the centre of the dish with a fine heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.

[430]
][1294—CERVELLE A LA POULETTE]

Prepare half a pint of poulette sauce (No. [101]), combined with three oz. of small, cooked, and very white mushrooms.

Add the brains, cut into slices; toss them gently in the sauce, taking care lest they break; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.

[1295—CERVELLE A LA VILLEROY]

Cut the raw brains into slices; season them, and poach them in butter.

Dip the slices into an almost cold Villeroy sauce, in suchwise as to cover them with a thick coating of it. Leave to cool, and treat them [à l’anglaise]. Set to cook for a few minutes before serving, and dish on a napkin with fried parsley.

Serve a light Périgueux sauce separately.

[1296—VOL AU VENT DE CERVELLE]

Prepare a vol-au-vent crust, as explained under No. [2390]. Slice the brains, and put the slices into half-a-pint of Allemande sauce, with twelve quenelles of ordinary forcemeat, poached just before dishing up; four oz. of small, cooked mushrooms, and one oz. of truffle slices, five or six of which should be reserved.

Pour the garnish into the vol au vent; set upon the latter the reserved slices of truffle, and dish on a folded napkin.

[1297—AMOURETTES A LA TOSCA]

Poach one lb. of [amourettes], as explained above, and cut them into lengths of one in.

Prepare a garnish of macaroni cohered with butter and grated Parmesan, and add thereto four tablespoonfuls of a crayfish cullis per four oz. of macaroni; three crayfishes’ tails for each person, and two-thirds of the pieces of [amourettes]. Toss well, in order to thoroughly mix the whole; dish in a timbale; cover the macaroni with what remains of the pieces of [amourettes], and cover them slightly with crayfish cullis.

[431]
]MUTTON, GRASS LAMB AND HOUSE LAMB

Relevés and Entrées.

From the culinary standpoint, the ovine species supplies three kinds of meat, viz:—

Mutton—properly so-called when the meat is derived from the adult animal.

Lamb—the young, weaned sheep, not yet fully grown, the meat of which is the more highly esteemed the younger the animal is.

House Lamb—the sheep’s unweaned young that has not yet grazed.

The “Pauillac” lamb, which is imported from France, is the most excellent example of the last kind. Good house lambs are also killed in England; they are quite equal to Pauillac lamb, but their season is short. As regards ordinary English mutton and lamb, however, the delicacy and quality of these meats are unrivalled.

But for its greater delicacy and tenderness, grass lamb, which corresponds with what the French call “agneau de pré-salé” is scarcely distinguishable from mutton. The recipes suited to it are the same as those given for mutton; and all that is necessary is to allow for differences of quality in calculating the time of cooking.

House lamb, the white flesh of which is quite different, admits of some of the mutton recipes; but it is generally prepared after special formulæ, the details of which I shall give hereafter.

When served roasted, hot or cold, mutton and grass and house lamb are always accompanied by mint sauce, the recipe for which I gave under No. [136].

In view of the similarity of their preparations, and in order to avoid finicking repetitions, I have refrained from giving separate recipes for lamb and mutton respectively. The reader will therefore bear in mind that the formulæ relating to mutton also apply to grass lamb.

[432]
][1298—SADDLE OF MUTTON]

[1299—BARON OR PAIR OF HIND-QUARTERS OF MUTTON]

[1300—DOUBLE OR PAIR OF LEGS OF MUTTON]

[1301—FILLETS OF MUTTON]

[1302—NECK OF MUTTON (Relevés)]

Saddle of mutton is that part of the sheep which reaches from the bone of the haunch to the floating ribs.

Baron of mutton comprises the saddle and the two legs, i.e., a pair of hind-quarters.

Double consists of the two unseparated legs, minus the saddle.

The Baron and the Double are almost always cuts of lamb.

The fillet is one half of the saddle, when the latter is cut into two, lengthwise; that is to say, divided down the middle in suchwise as to bisect the spinal column. These fillets are sometimes boned, rolled over with the kernel of meat in the centre, and strung, in which case the skin should be removed before rolling. Saddle of mutton, before being roasted, should be cleared of all its superfluous underlying fat; and the flanks should be so shortened as to just meet when drawn over the fillets. The overlying skin should be removed, and the saddle should be strung in five or six places to keep it in shape.

In the case of a saddle of lamb, the skin need not be completely removed, but slit in various places. As to neck of mutton, this should be shortened as for the cutting of ordinary cutlets; the skin and the bones of the chine should be removed, as also the meat at the end of the rib-bones, down to two-thirds in. from the extremity of each. The cushion is then covered with slices of bacon, tied on with string.

When the piece is roasted and dished, a frill should be placed on the end of each bared bone. Neck of mutton ought never to comprise more than nine to ten ribs, counting from the floating ones; it should consist of rather less if anything.

Mutton Relevés allow more particularly of vegetable and rice garnishes.

Garnishes with sauces do not suit them so well, even when the pieces are braised. As for paste garnishes, such as macaroni, noodles, gniokis; they are seldom used.

Garnishes for mutton relevés should therefore be chosen, in preference, from among the following, the details of which I gave under “Filet de Bœuf” (Nos. [1044] to [1074]) and which I recall hereafter:—

Andalouse, Bouquetière, Châtelaine, Clamart, Dauphine, [433] ]Dubarry, Duchesse, Japonaise, Jardinière, Lorette, [Macédoine], Montmorency, Moderne, Nivernaise, Orientale, Petit-Duc, Provençale, Renaissance, Richelieu, St. Germain.

Apart from these compound garnishes, the following simple garnishes also suit admirably, either alone, or separated by some kind of potato preparation:—

Braised Lettuce, stuffed with ordinary forcemeat or rice.

Cabbages, moulded to the shape of small balls, braised and stuffed with fine mince-meat or rice.

Haricot-beans, Peas and Broad-beans, cohered with butter.

Asparagus-heads, white or green, cooked and cohered with butter.

Celery, Endives, and Chicory, all braised. Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflowers, Broccoli

, etc.

Finally, the garnishes and modes of preparation termed: à l’Anglaise, à la Boulangère, Braisés, Mariné en Chevreuil

, which I give below for the leg and the shoulder, may be applied perfectly well to other large pieces of mutton.

[1303—LARGE COLD JOINTS OF MUTTON]

Refer to Cold Beef; in all cases keep the dishing simple.

The garnishing is optional.

[1304—LEG AND SHOULDER OF MUTTON]

Legs of mutton or lamb ought never to appear on any but an ordinary luncheon menu. Although, strictly speaking, they should always be served after one of the ways described hereafter, all the garnishes given above may be applied to them.

Shoulders may be roasted whole; but they may also be boned, seasoned inside, rolled up, and firmly strung. They may be treated like the legs, and the same garnishes are suited to them.

[1305—GIGOT BOUILLI A L’ANGLAISE]

Trim the leg, shorten it in the region of the tibia bone, and plunge it into a stewpan of boiling water, salted in the proportion of one-third oz. of salt per quart of water.

For an ordinary leg, add: three medium-sized carrots, two onions, each stuck with a clove, a faggot, and two cloves of garlic.

Let the leg cook for a quarter of an hour for each two lbs. of its weight.

Dish with vegetables all round, and serve at the same time a butter sauce with capers.

N.B.—Leg of mutton [à l’anglaise] may be accompanied by [434] ]purées of turnips, celery, etc., and these vegetables should cook with the meat. A purée of potatoes or of haricot beans may be sent to the table with the meat; but, in this case, of course, the vegetables would be served separately.

[1306—BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON]

Suppress the pelvic bone, shorten the end bone and brown the leg in the oven.

Now, put it in an oval utensil, garnished for braising; add just enough white stock to barely cover the joint, and cook gently, allowing forty minutes per lb. of meat.

Transfer the leg to a tray; strain the braising-liquor; clear it of all grease, and reduce it to half. Sprinkle the meat with a few tablespoonfuls of this reduced gravy, and set it to glaze in the oven.

Serve at the same time:—

(1) Either a purée of potatoes, of turnips, of haricot-beans, of cauliflower, etc., or

(2) The reduced braising-liquor.

[1307—GIGOT A LA BOULANGÈRE[!-- TN: grave invisible --]

The leg may either be boned, seasoned inside and strung; or the end-bone may simply be shortened and that of the pelvis removed.

In either case, put it in an earthenware dish, and brown it well in the oven, on both sides; then complete its cooking, all but a third.

This done, set round the joint four large, sliced onions, just tossed in butter, that they may acquire some colour, and eight large, peeled potatoes cut into roundels one half in. thick. Sprinkle this garnish with the grease of the joint, and then complete the cooking of the leg and its garnish.

Serve in the dish in which the joint has cooked.

[1308—GIGOT MARINE EN CHEVREUIL]

Shorten the end-bone; remove the bone of the pelvis, and skin the top of the leg, leaving the meat in that region quite bare. Lard with very small strips of bacon, and put the meat into a [marinade] prepared after the manner described under No. [170]. The length of its stay in the [marinade] should be based upon the tenderness of the meat and atmospheric conditions. In winter the time averages about three or four days, and in summer two days.

To Roast the Joint.—Withdraw it from the [marinade] and dry it thoroughly; set it on a stand in the baking-tray; and put [435] ]it into a very fierce oven, that the meat may set immediately. The object of the very fierce oven is to prevent the juices absorbed from the [marinade] escaping in steam and thereby hardening the meat.

Towards the close of the operation, [rissole] the larding bacon well.

Set on a long dish; fix a frill to the bone, and serve a Chevreuil sauce separately.

Chevreuil Sauce à la Française.—With the [marinade] of the joint and a [Mirepoix] with ham, prepare a sufficient quantity of Poivrade sauce (No. [49]) to obtain two-thirds of a pint of it after it has been strained through a colander—an operation which should be effected with the application of great pressure to the aromatics.

Despumate this sauce for thirty minutes, and add, little by little, half a wine-glassful of excellent red wine. Finish the seasoning with a little cayenne and a pinch of powdered sugar, and once more rub the whole through tammy or a fine strainer.

[1309—GIGOT A LA SOUBISE]

Braise the leg of mutton as shown under No. [247]. When it is two-thirds done, transfer it to another utensil; strain the braising-liquor over it, and add thereto three lbs. of sliced onions and two-third lb. of rice.

Gently complete the cooking of the joint, together with the onions and the rice. This done:—(1) put it on a baking-tray and glaze it in the oven; (2) quickly rub the onions and the rice through a fine sieve or tammy.

Set the leg of mutton on a long dish; put a frill on the bone, and serve, separately, the well-heated Soubise, finished with one oz. of butter.

N.B.—This Soubise may be prepared separately; but in this case it has much less flavour than when it is made from the onions and the rice which have cooked in the braising-liquor. I therefore urge the adoption of the recipe as it stands.

[1310—COLD LEG OF MUTTON]

Dish it very simply, like other cold large joints of mutton.

[1311—CUTLETS]

Mutton and lamb cutlets are sometimes [sautéd]; but grilling is the most suitable method of cooking them. When the nature of their preparation requires that they should be treated [à l’anglaise], fry them in clarified butter. All the garnishes, given [436] ]under “Tournedos,” except those served with sauces, may be applied to cutlets.

The latter also allow of a few special garnishes, and these I give in the following recipes.

[1312—CÔTELETTES A LA CHAMPVALLON (10 Cutlets)]

Take some cutlets from the region underlying the shoulder; that is to say, those uncovered by the removal of this joint. And do not clear the bone-ends of their meat, as when frills are to be fixed to them.

Season them with salt and pepper, and brown them in butter on both sides. This done, put them in an earthenware dish with half lb. of sliced onions, tossed in butter without colouration; moisten with enough white stock to almost cover the cutlets and the onions; add the quarter of a clove of garlic, crushed, and a faggot; boil, and set in the oven. At the end of twenty minutes, add one and one-half lbs. of potatoes, fashioned to the shape of corks, and cut into thin roundels; season, and complete the cooking, basting often the while.

When the cutlets are cooked, the moistening should be almost entirely reduced.

[1313—CÔTELETTES LAURA]

Grill the cutlets, and, meanwhile, prepare a garnish (the quantity of which should be such as to allow two and one-half oz. of it per cutlet) of parboiled macaroni, cut into half-inch lengths, cohered with cream, and combined, per lb., with three and one-half oz. of peeled, pressed, and [concassed] tomatoes, tossed in butter.

Or, when white truffles are in season, prepare some macaroni with cream, as above, combined with the peelings of raw, white truffles.

Cut some very soft pig’s caul into triangles, proportionate in size to the cutlets; spread a little macaroni on each triangle; on the latter set a cutlet; cover the cutlets with some more macaroni, and enclose the whole in the caul. Lay the cutlets on a dish.

Sprinkle with fine raspings and melted butter, and set to grill at the salamander, or in a fierce oven, for seven or eight minutes.

Dish the cutlets in the form of a crown, and surround them with a thread of clear half-glaze sauce, combined with tomatoes.

[1314—CÔTELETTES A LA MAINTENON]

Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. This done, put a heaped tablespoonful of a Maintenon preparation (No. [226]) [437] ]on each; shape it like a dome, by means of the blade of a small knife dipped in tepid water, and put the cutlets, one by one, on a tray. The Maintenon preparation should be laid on the cooked side of each cutlet and sprinkled with fine raspings and melted butter. Now put the cutlets in a rather hot oven for seven or eight minutes in order to:—

(1) Allow a [gratin] to form over the surface of the garnish.

(2) Finish the cooking of the cutlets.

Dish the latter in the form of a crown, and serve, separately, a sauceboat of meat glaze finished with butter.

[1315—CÔTELETTES A LA MURILLO]

Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only; and garnish the cooked side, dome-fashion, with a fine hash of mushrooms, cohered with a little very reduced Béchamel sauce.

Set them on a tray; sprinkle with grated Parmesan and a few drops of melted butter, and glaze in a fierce oven. Dish the cutlets in the form of a crown; fix a frill to each, and surround them with mild capsicums and tomatoes, both of which should be sliced, tossed in butter, and mixed.

[1316—CÔTELETTES A LA PROVENÇALE]

For ten cutlets:—(1) Reduce one-half pint of Béchamel sauce to a third, and add thereto the third of a garlic clove, crushed, and the yolks of three eggs; (2) prepare at the same time as the cutlets, ten grilled mushrooms; and ten stoned, stuffed and poached olives, girded by a strip of anchovy fillet.

Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. Cover the cooked side of each with the preparation described above; set them on a tray; sprinkle them with a few drops of melted butter, and put them in the oven, that their garnish may be glazed and that their cooking may be completed.

Dish in the form of a circle; place a grilled mushroom (convex side uppermost) in the middle of each cutlet, and, on each mushroom, a stuffed olive.

[1316a—CÔTELETTES DE MOUTON A LA REFORME]

Trim six mutton cutlets; season them; dip them in melted butter, and roll them in bread-crumbs, combined with finely-chopped ham in the proportion of a third of the weight of the bread-crumbs. Now cook them gently in clarified butter.

Dish them in a circle on a hot dish, and send the following sauce to the table with them:—

Take a small saucepan, and mix therein three tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce, the same quantity of Poivrade sauce, [438] ]and one coffeespoonful of red-currant jelly; add one coffeespoonful of each of the following short [julienne] garnishes to the sauce; viz.: hard-boiled white of egg; very red, salted tongue; gherkins; mushrooms, and truffles.

[1317—CÔTELETTES A LA SÉVIGNÉ[!-- TN: second acute invisible --]

Have ready a preparation of mushroom and artichoke-bottom croquettes, in the proportion of one heaped tablespoonful for each cutlet.

Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. Garnish the fried side of each, dome-fashion, with the above preparation; treat them [à l’anglaise], and sprinkle them with melted butter.

Put them in the oven to complete their cooking, and, at the same time, to colour their coating of egg and bread-crumbs.

Dish in the form of a crown.

[1318—CÔTELETTES A LA SUÉDOISE[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Place the cutlets on a dish, and drop thereon some minced onions and shallots, bits of parsley stalks, thyme and bay. Sprinkle them with the juice of a lemon and a few drops of oil, and leave them to [marinade] for thirty minutes, turning them over the while, from time to time.

This done, dry them; dip them in melted butter, sprinkle them with bread-crumbs, and grill them.

Dish them in the form of a crown, and garnish the centre of the dish with the following, which may also be sent separately: one-half lb. of peeled and finely-sliced apples, quickly stewed to a purée with the third of a wineglassful of white wine. When about to serve, add to this purée two and one-half oz. of finely-grated horse-radish, or the latter grated and afterwards finely chopped.

[1319—CÔTELETTES EN BELLE VUE]

Proceed after one of the recipes given for veal cutlets and grenadins “en Belle Vue.”

[1320—CÔTELETTES EN CHAUDFROID]

Cut some very regular cutlets from a neck of mutton or lamb, which should have been trimmed as explained, braised, and left to cook in its braising-liquor. Clear all grease from the latter; strain it; reduce it, and add to it a brown chaud-froid sauce (No. [34]).

Dip the cutlets in the sauce when it is almost cold; set them on a tray; deck the kernel of meat in each with a fine slice [439] ]of truffle, and sprinkle with cold, melted aspic. When the sauce has set well, pass the point of a small knife round the cutlets, with the view of removing the superfluous sauce; and either dish them round a vegetable salad, cohered and moulded, or simply dish them in the form of a circle and place a pyramid of cohered, vegetable salad in their midst.

[1321—NOISETTES DE MOUTON]

Mutton noisettes, and especially those of lamb, may be classed among the choicest of entrées. They are cut from either the fillet or the neck; but, in the latter case, only the first six or seven ribs are used.

Noisettes are grilled or [sautéd], and all the recipes given for Tournedos (Nos. [1077] to [1139]) and for cutlets, may be applied to them.

[1322—MINION FILLETS]

The minion fillets of mutton or lamb consist of the two muscles which lie under the saddle. Their mode of preparation changes according to their size. Thus, if they are small, they are served whole, after having been trimmed, sometimes larded; and [sautéd].

If they are large, they are divided into two or three parts, cut laterally and aslant; they are flattened, trimmed to the shape of ellipses, seasoned, dipped in melted butter, sprinkled with fine bread-crumbs, and finally, gently grilled.

Minion fillets of beef, obtained from the narrow extremity or head of the fillet, are also used occasionally; and these are generally flattened, dipped in butter and fine bread-crumbs, and grilled.

These fillets are served chiefly with vegetable purées or with [macédoines] of fresh vegetables.

The sauces best suited to them are the Béarnaise and the Robert Escoffier.

[1323—SHEEP’S TONGUES]

Salted or fresh sheep’s tongues make an excellent luncheon entrée.

They are cooked after the manner of ox and calf’s tongues, due allowance being made for the difference of size.

The various garnishes given for ox and calf’s tongues may also be used in this case.

[1324—SHEEP’S TROTTERS]

Sheep’s trotters, as they reach us from the purveyor, should first be well singed over spirits of wine, and then rubbed with a clean piece of linen. The little tuft of hair in the cleft of [440] ]the hoof is next removed, the hoof itself is suppressed, and the trotters are split open lengthwise and boned. Sheep’s trotters are cooked like calf’s feet, in the special court-bouillon or blanc, given under No. [167].

[1325—FRITÔT[!-- TN: original lacks circumflex --] OF SHEEP’S TROTTERS]

Fifteen minutes before frying them, put the sheep’s trotters into a receptacle with lemon juice, a few drops of oil and some chopped parsley; keeping the quantity of these ingredients in proportion to the number of trotters. Be careful to toss the latter from time to time in the [marinade].

A few moments before serving, dip the half-trotters into batter (No. [232]) and plunge them into an abundant and hot frying-medium.

Drain them when the batter is nicely dry and golden; and dish on a napkin with a border of very green fried parsley.

Serve a tomato sauce separately.

[1326—PIEDS DE MOUTON POULETTE]

For this dish the trotters should, as far as possible, be freshly cooked. For twenty trotters prepare two-thirds of a pint of poulette sauce; add the trotters thereto, well drained; toss them in the sauce, and dish them in a timbale with a sprinkling of chopped parsley.

[1327—PIEDS DE MOUTON ROUENNAISE]

Instead of cooking the sheep’s trotters in a blanc, braise them; add a little Madeira to their braising-liquor, and cook them thoroughly.

Prepare a forcemeat, consisting of one and one-half lbs. of very fine sausage-meat; three oz. of chopped onions, cooked in butter without colouration, and a large pinch of parsley.

When the trotters are cooked, transfer them to a dish; almost entirely reduce their braising-liquor; add to this two liqueur-glassfuls of burnt brandy, for each ten trotters, and add this reduced braising-liquor to the forcemeat. Cut ten rectangles six inches long by four inches wide out of pig’s caul.

Spread a tablespoonful of forcemeat over each; set two trotters on the forcemeat of each rectangle; cover up with forcemeat, and draw the ends of the caul together in suchwise as to enclose the whole.

Sprinkle with bread-crumbs and melted butter; grill gently, and serve.

[441]
][1328—PIEDS DE MOUTON TYROLIENNE]

Cook a fair-sized chopped onion in butter, together with three peeled, pressed, and roughly-chopped tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper; add a pinch of chopped parsley, a little crushed garlic, one-sixth of a pint of Poivrade sauce, and twenty freshly-cooked and well-drained sheep’s trotters.

Simmer for ten minutes and dish in a timbale.

[1329—MUTTON KIDNEYS]

Mutton kidneys are either grilled or [sautéd]. When they are to be grilled, first remove the fine skin enveloping them, cut them in halves, without completely severing them on their concave side, and impale them on a small skewer, with the view of keeping them open during the grilling operation. Before grilling they may or may not be dipped in melted butter and rolled in bread-crumb.

When they are to be [sautéd], clear the kidneys, as before, of the thin skin which envelops them; cut them into halves, and then into slices one-quarter in. thick.

Kidneys, of what kind soever, should be cooked very quickly, otherwise they harden. After having seasoned them, put them into very hot butter, and toss them over a fierce fire in order to stiffen them. This done, drain them; and let them stand for a few minutes, that they may exude the blood they contain, which sometimes has a distinct ammoniacal smell.

Meanwhile, swill the utensil in which they have been [sautéd], and finish the sauce, to which they are added when dishing up. Never let the kidneys boil in the sauce, for they would immediately harden.

[1330—ROGNONS SAUTÉS[!-- TN: acute invisible --] BERCY]

Slice, season, and quickly toss the mutton kidneys in butter, and drain them.

For six kidneys put one tablespoonful of finely-chopped shallots into the saucepan, and just heat it. Moisten with one-sixth of a pint of white wine; reduce to half; add two tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze, and a few drops of lemon-juice, and put the kidneys in this sauce. Add two and one-half oz. of butter, cut into small pieces; melt this on the corner of the stove, tossing and rolling the pan the while; dish in a timbale, and sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over the kidneys.

[1331—ROGNONS SAUTÉS[!-- TN: acute invisible --] BORDELAISE]

Fry the mutton kidneys, and drain them as above.

Put into the saucepan one-third of a pint of Bordelaise sauce [442] ]combined with poached dice of marrow, a pinch of chopped parsley, and three oz. of sliced [cèpes], tossed in butter and oil and well drained.

Return the kidneys to the saucepan; toss them in the sauce, and dish in a timbale.

[1332—ROGNONS SAUTÉS[!-- TN: acute invisible --] CARVALHO]

Fry the skinned, halved and seasoned mutton kidneys in butter, and dish them, each on a small [croûton] of bread-crumb, cut to the shape of a cock’s comb and fried in butter. On each half-kidney, set a small cooked mushroom and a slice of truffle.

Swill the saucepan with Madeira; add a little half-glaze; put in a small quantity of butter, away from the fire, and pour this sauce over the kidneys.

[1333—ROGNONS SAUTÉS[!-- TN: acute invisible --] AU CHAMPAGNE]

Remove the outer skin from the mutton kidneys; cut them in two lengthwise; season them; fry them quickly in butter, and dish in a timbale.

Swill the saucepan with one-half pint of champagne per six kidneys; reduce almost entirely; add two tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze; add a small quantity of butter, and pour this sauce over the kidneys.

N.B.—The preparation of kidneys [sautéd] with wine always follows the same principle; that is to say, the saucepan in which the kidneys have cooked is always swilled with a quantity of wine, in proportion to the number of kidneys; a proportionate amount of meat glaze is then added, and after the sauce has been slightly buttered, the kidneys are tossed in it.

[1334—ROGNONS SAUTÉS[!-- TN: acute invisible --] HONGROISE]

Remove the outer skin from the mutton kidneys; cut them into halves; slice and season them; fry them in butter, and drain them.

In the saucepan that has served in the cooking of the kidneys, fry a chopped onion with butter, and add thereto a pinch of paprika.

Moisten with a tablespoonful of cream, and reduce; add one-sixth of a pint of velouté, boil for a moment, and rub through tammy.

Heat this sauce; put the kidneys into it, toss them for a minute, so as to heat without boiling them, and dish in a timbale.

[1335—ROGNONS SAUTÉS[!-- TN: acute invisible --] CHASSEUR]

Quickly fry the sliced mutton kidneys in butter and drain them.

[443]
]Swill the saucepan with white wine and almost entirely reduce; add one-third of a pint of Chausseur sauce for each six kidneys; put the kidneys in this sauce, toss them for an instant; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.

[1336—ROGNONS SAUTÉS A L’INDIENNE]

For six mutton kidneys: fry a chopped onion in butter and add a large pinch of curry thereto. Moisten with one-sixth pint of velouté; cook for a few minutes, and rub through tammy.

Clear the kidneys of their outer skin; slice and season them, and fry them quickly in butter. Put them into the sauce; dish them in a timbale, and serve some rice “à l’Indienne” separately.

[1337—ROGNONS SAUTÉS[!-- TN: acute invisible --] TURBIGO]

Clear the mutton kidneys of their outer skin and cut them in halves; season them; fry them quickly in butter, and dish them in a circle in a timbale.

In their midst set a garnish of small, cooked mushrooms, and grilled [chipolata] sausages; and pour thereon a highly-seasoned, [tomatéd] half-glaze sauce.

[1338—CROÛTE AUX ROGNONS]

Cut some crusts two and one-half in. in diameter and one and one-third in. thick, from a tin-loaf, and allow one for each person. Remove the crumb from their inside, leaving only a slight thickness at the bottom; butter them, and dry them in the oven.

Garnish these crusts with mutton kidneys [sautéd] with mushrooms, and combined with small, ordinary forcemeat quenelles, and slices of truffle.

Dish on a napkin, and serve very hot.

[1339—TURBAN DE ROGNONS A LA PIÉMONTAISE[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Garnish a border or a [Savarin-mould] with “rizotto à la Piémontaise,” press the latter lightly into the utensil, and keep the mould hot.

Clear the mutton kidneys of their outer skin; cut them into halves; season them, and fry them quickly in butter.

Turn out on a round dish, set the half-kidneys in a circle on the “Turban,” alternating them with fine slices of truffle, and pour a [tomatéd] half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, in the middle.

[1340—ROGNONS A LA BROCHETTE]

Cut the mutton kidneys into halves, as explained, without dividing them; impale them two or four at a time, on a skewer; [444] ]season them, and grill them in a somewhat fierce oven. Set them, with the skewers withdrawn, upon a hot dish, and put into the cavity of each a piece of softened, Maître-d’hôtel butter, the size of a hazel nut.

[1341—ROGNONS BROCHETTE A L’ESPAGNOLE]

Prepare the mutton kidneys as above.

Grill the same quantity of small, pressed and seasoned half-tomatoes. Garnish these tomatoes with a piece, the size of a walnut, of Maître-d’hôtel butter, combined with two-thirds oz. of chopped capsicum per three oz. of butter. Dish these tomatoes in a circle; set a kidney on each, and surround with a border consisting of rings of onion, seasoned, dredged and crisply fried in oil.

[1342—ROGNONS BROCHETTE AU VERT PRÉ]

Prepare the mutton kidneys exactly as explained under the first of this kind of recipes, and surround them with small heaps of straw potatoes and bunches of very green parsley.

[1343—BROCHETTES DE ROGNONS]

Remove the outer skin from the mutton kidneys, and cut them into roundels one-third in. thick. Season these roundels and stiffen them in butter over a very fierce fire. Impale them on skewers, alternating them with squares of [blanched] lean bacon and slices of [sautéd] mushrooms. Sprinkle with melted butter and raspings, and grill.

These brochettes are generally served as they stand.

Various Preparations of Mutton.

[1344—CASSOULET]

(1) Set one quart of haricot beans to cook with two quarts of water, one-third oz. of salt, one carrot, one onion stuck with a clove, one faggot, six garlic cloves, and two-thirds lb. of fresh pork rind, [blanched] and strung together. Boil; skim; cover, and cook gently for one hour. At the end of this time, add two-thirds lb. of breast of pork, and a sausage with garlic, of the same weight as the pork. Salt the beans very moderately, allowing for the reduction which they have ultimately to undergo.

Complete the cooking of the whole gently.

(2) Fry gently in lard one lb. of shoulder, and the same weight of breast, of mutton; both cut into pieces one and one-half oz. in weight.

This done, drain away half the grease; add two chopped [445] ]onions and two crushed cloves of garlic, and fry again until the onions have acquired a slight colour. Now pour in one-sixth pint of good tomato purée; moisten the meat, enough to cover, with the cooking-liquor of haricot beans, and cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours at least.

(3) Garnish the bottom and sides of some cocottes or deep dishes with bacon rind; fill these with alternate layers of the pieces of mutton, the beans, the bacon cut into dice, and the sausage cut into roundels.

Sprinkle the surface with raspings, and set the [gratin] to form in a moderate oven for one hour; taking care to baste from time to time with some reserved haricot-beans cooking-liquor.

[1345—CURRIE A L’INDIENNE]

Cut two lbs. of lean mutton into cubes of one and one-third in. side, and fry these in three oz. of lard, with one chopped onion, salt, and a pinch of powdered curry. When the meat is frizzled and the onions begin to colour, sprinkle with one and one-third oz. of flour; cook the latter a while; moisten with one and one-third pints of water or stock; boil, stirring the while, so as to dissolve the roux, and then cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours. When about to serve, clear of all grease and dish in a timbale.

Send a timbale of rice à l’Indienne

separately.

[1346—DAUBE A L’AVIGNONNAISE]

Bone a medium-sized leg of mutton, and cut the meat into squares, three oz. in weight. Lard each square with a large, seasoned strip of bacon, inserted with the grain of the meat. Put the pieces into a [daubière] with a sliced half-carrot and onion, three cloves of garlic, a little thyme, bay, and parsley stalks. Moisten with one and one-third pints of good, red wine and four tablespoonfuls of oil, and [marinade] in the cool for two hours.

Prepare:—(1) Three chopped onions mixed with two crushed garlic cloves; (2) one-half lb. of lean bacon, cut into dice and [blanched]; (3) one-half lb. of fresh, bacon rind, [blanched] and cut into squares of one in. side; (4) a large bunch of parsley, containing a small piece of dry, orange peel. Garnish the bottom and sides of a [daubière] with thin slices of bacon; set the pieces of mutton in layers inside, and alternate them with layers of onion, bacon and bacon rind; sprinkle a pinch of powdered thyme and bay on each layer of meat. Put the faggot in the middle.

[446]
]Moisten with the [marinade], strained through a sieve, and one-fifth pint of brown stock; cover with slices of bacon; close the [daubière], and seal down the lid by means of a thread of soft paste, in order that the steam may be concentrated inside.

Boil on the side of the stove; put the [daubière] in an oven of regular heat (a baker’s oven if possible) that the cooking process may be gentle and steady, and cook for five hours.

When about to serve, uncover the [daubière]; remove the overlying slices of bacon; clear of grease; remove the faggot, and dish the [daubière] on a napkin.

N.B.—According to the household method, the “Daube” is served in the [daubière] itself; but, subject to the demands of the service and in order that the preparation may keep its bucolic character, it may be served in small earthenware utensils.

[1347—DAUBE FROIDE]

Cold Daube constitutes an excellent luncheon dish. All that is needed is to put what is left into a small [daubière], where, as a result of the binding properties of the pork rinds, it will set in a mass.

When about to serve, turn out on a round dish; surround with very light, chopped jelly; and carve into very thin slices.

[1348—ÉMINCÉS[!-- TN: both acutes invisible --] ET HACHIS]

An unalterable principle governs the preparation of émincés

and hashes, which is that the meats constituting these dishes should never boil if it be desired that they be not hard.

They should, therefore, only be heated in their accompanying garnish or sauce, and in the case of émincés

, cut as finely as possible.

For the various recipes under this head, see the Chapter on Beef. (Nos. [1175], [1178] and [1179].)

[1349—HARICOT DE MOUTON]

Heat three oz. of lard in a sautépan. Put therein one-half lb. of lean bacon, cut into dice and [blanched], and twenty small onions. When the bacon is frizzled and the onions have acquired a good colour, drain both on a dish. In the same fat, fry three lbs. of breast, neck and shoulder of mutton, all three being cut into pieces weighing about three oz. Keep the meat in the fat until each piece of it has acquired a frizzled coat.

Drain away half of the grease; add three crushed cloves of garlic; dust with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and cook the latter, stirring the while.

Moisten with one quart of water; season with one-third oz. [447] ]of salt and a pinch of pepper; boil and stir; add a faggot, and cook in the oven for thirty minutes.

This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan; add the bacon and the onions and a quart of half-cooked haricot beans; strain the sauce over the whole, and complete the cooking in the oven for one hour.

Dish in a timbale or in small cocottes.

[1350—IRISH STEW]

Cut two lbs. of boned breast and shoulder of mutton into pieces, as above.

Slice two lbs. of potatoes and chop four medium-sized onions.

Take a saucepan just large enough to hold these ingredients and the moistening; line the bottom of the utensil with a layer of the pieces of meat, and season the latter with salt and pepper. Upon the meat spread a litter of sliced potatoes and chopped onions; repeat the operation, again and again, until all the ingredients are used up, and remember to place a faggot in the middle.

Moisten with one and one-third pint of water, and cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours. The potatoes in this preparation answer the double purpose of garnish and leason.

Dish in a timbale and serve boiling.

[1351—MOUSSAKA]

(1) Cut six fine egg-plants into halves, lengthwise; [cisel] the pulp somewhat deeply with the point of a small knife, and fry them until their pulp may be easily removed. Do this with a spoon, and put the pulp aside with the skins of the egg-plants.

(2) Peel two fair-sized egg-plants; cut them into roundels one-third in. thick; season them, dredge them; fry them in oil, and put them aside.

(3) Chop up the pulp withdrawn from the egg-plants, and put it into a basin with one and one-half lbs. of very lean, cooked mutton, chopped or cut into very small dice; two tablespoonfuls of very finely-chopped onion, fried in butter; a pinch of parsley; a piece of crushed garlic as large as a pea; three oz. of roughly-chopped raw mushrooms, fried in butter; two eggs; two tablespoonfuls of cold Espagnole sauce; one tablespoonful of tomato purée; a pinch of salt, and another of pepper. Mix the whole well.

(4) Butter a low-bordered quart Charlotte mould; line it all over with the egg-plant skins, and lay these black side [448] ]uppermost. Garnish the bottom of the mould with a layer of mincemeat, one in. thick; on this layer place a few fried roundels of egg-plant, and continue thus with alternate layers of mince and egg-plant. Cover the last layer of mince-meat with the remains of the egg-plant skins, and cook in a [bain-marie] for one hour.

When taking the mould out of the oven, let it stand for five minutes in order that the ingredients may settle; turn out on a round dish, and besprinkle the surface of the Moussaka with chopped parsley.

[1352—MUTTON PUDDING]

Follow the directions given under beefsteak pudding (No. [1170]) exactly. The preparation is just the same, but for the substitution of mutton for the beef.

[1353—NAVARIN PRINTANIER]

Heat four oz. of clarified fat in a sautépan, and put into it four lbs. of breast, neck and shoulder of mutton; all three cut into pieces weighing two and one-half oz. Fry over a very brisk fire; season with one-third oz. of salt, a pinch of ground pepper, and another of sugar.

The sugar settles slowly on the bottom of the sautépan, where it turns to caramel; it is then dissolved by the moistening, and thus gives the sauce the required colour.

When the meat is well fried, remove almost all the fat; sprinkle with one and one-half oz. of flour; cook the latter for a few minutes, and moisten with one and one-half quarts of water or stock.

Boil, stirring the while, and add two-thirds lb. of fresh [concassed] tomatoes or one-fifth pint of tomato purée; one crushed clove of garlic, and a large faggot. Cover and cook in the oven for one hour.

This done, transfer the pieces of mutton, one by one, to another saucepan with twenty small, new onions; twenty pieces of new trimmed carrots; twenty pieces of new turnips, cut to the shape of long olives and tossed with butter in a frying-pan; twenty small, new potatoes, cut into two, and trimmed, or whole; one-sixth pint of fresh peas, and an equal quantity of raw French beans, cut into lozenges. Strain the sauce over the whole; set to boil, and continue cooking slowly in the oven for one hour; taking care from time to time to baste the overlying vegetables with sauce.

Dish in a timbale and serve very hot.

N.B.—When put into the sauce, the vegetables cook much less quickly than in boiling water. In the Navarin, moreover, [449] ]they are cooked by means of gradual penetration; thus, by slackening the cooking speed of the Navarin, they are cooked to the required extent.

[1354—PILAW DE MOUTON A LA TURQUE]

Mutton Pilaff is, in fact, nothing but a Navarin in which the tomatoes dominate the other ingredients; it is flavoured with ginger or saffron, according to circumstances, and the usual vegetables are replaced by rice. Prepared in this way, it does not lend itself very well to the exigencies of a restaurant service.

More often, therefore, it is treated like curried mutton; but, instead of serving it with rice à l’Indienne, it is dished in the midst of a pilaff-rice border. Sometimes, too, the rice is served separately, after the manner of a curry dish.

HOUSE LAMB.

[1355—BARON (OR PAIR OF HIND-QUARTERS) OF LAMB]

[1356—DOUBLE (OR PAIR OF LEGS) OF LAMB]

[1357—QUARTER OF LAMB]

[1358—FILLET OF LAMB]

[1359—SADDLE AND NECK OF LAMB]

Large joints of lamb for Relevés are cut like those of mutton.

One joint, however, should be added, which is “The Haunch”; and this consists of one leg and half the loin attached.

Large joints of house lamb should be [poëled] or roasted. Their most suitable adjunct is either their own stock, or a thickened, highly seasoned and clear gravy.

House Lamb Relevés are chiefly garnished with early-season or new vegetables; but all the garnishes given under Mutton Relevés may also be served with them, provided the difference in size be taken into account. In addition to these garnishes, saddle of lamb admits of all the preparations given under saddle of veal (Nos. [1181] to [1191]).

[1360—SELLE D’AGNEAU DE LAIT ÉDOUARD[!-- TN: acute invisible --] VII.]

Completely bone the saddle from underneath, in suchwise as to leave the skin intact; season it inside, and place in the middle a fine foie gras, studded with truffles and [marinaded] in Marsala.

Reconstruct the saddle, and wrap it tightly in a piece of muslin; put it in a saucepan just large enough to hold it, on a litter of pieces of bacon rind, cleared of all fat and [blanched]. [450] ]Moisten, enough to cover, with the braising-liquor of a cushion of veal; add thereto the Marsala used in marinading the foie gras, and poach for about forty-five minutes.

Before withdrawing the saddle, make sure that the foie gras is sufficiently cooked. Remove the muslin, and put the saddle in an oval [terrine à pâté] just large enough to hold it. Strain the cooking-liquor over it, without clearing the former of grease, and set it to cool.

When the saddle is quite cold, carefully clear away the grease that lies upon it, first by means of a spoon and then by means of boiling water. Serve it very cold, in the terrine as it stands.

[1361—CARRÉ[!-- TN: acute invisible --] D’AGNEAU BEAUCAIRE]

Having trimmed the neck of lamb, as explained, brown it in butter; surround it with eight small, Provence half-artichokes, and cook gently in the oven. The artichokes in question have no chokes and are very tender.

Meanwhile, peel, press, [concass] and season four or five tomatoes, and fry them in butter. When they are ready, add a large pinch of chopped tarragon to them.

Dish the tomatoes; set the neck upon them, and surround it with the stewed half-artichokes.

[1362—CARRÉ[!-- TN: acute invisible --] D’AGNEAU EN COCOTTE A LA BONNE FEMME]

Fry a shortened and well-trimmed neck of lamb, in butter.

This done, transfer it to an oval cocotte with ten small onions browned in butter, and two medium-sized potatoes, cut into large dice, shaped like garlic cloves, and [blanched]. Sprinkle the whole with melted butter and cook gently in the oven.

Serve the preparation as it stands, in the cocotte, placing the latter on a folded napkin.

[1363—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU A LA BOULANGÈRE]

Fry the neck of lamb with butter, in an earthenware dish, and surround it with sliced onions, tossed in butter, and sliced potatoes; both of which vegetables should be in quantities in proportion to the size of the piece of meat. The “à la Boulangère” procedure is always the same, and was explained under No. [1307], but allowances should always be made for the particular size and tenderness of the piece.

[1364—CARRÉ[!-- TN: acute invisible --] D’AGNEAU[!-- TN: apostrophe invisible --] GRILLÉ]

Having shortened and well trimmed the neck, season it; sprinkle it with melted butter, and grill it gently.

[451]
]When it is almost cooked, sprinkle it again with melted butter and bread-crumbs, and let it acquire a golden colour while completely cooking it.

Serve very hot with mint sauce and a suitable garnish.

[1365—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU MIREILLE]

Prepare some Anna potatoes (No. [2203]) in an oval earthenware dish, and add a third of the quantity of potatoes of raw, minced artichoke-bottoms.

When the potatoes are three-parts cooked, stiffen the neck in butter; place it on the potatoes, and complete the cooking of the two, basting often the while with melted butter.

Send the preparation to the table on the dish that has served in the cooking process.

[1366—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU PRINTANIER]

Prepare the following garnish: eight small onions, half-cooked in butter; ten carrots of the size and shape of garlic cloves, cooked in consommé and glazed; and ten turnips of the same shape and size, similarly treated.

Put these vegetables into a cocotte with three tablespoonfuls of fresh peas; the same quantity of raw, French beans, cut into lozenge form; two or three tablespoonfuls of good and very clear stock, and complete the cooking of the whole.

Meanwhile, [poële] the neck of lamb, which should have been shortened and trimmed in the usual way. Dish the neck of lamb and serve the vegetables in the cocotte.

[1367—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU SOUBISE]

Having shortened and trimmed the neck of lamb, stiffen it in butter; surround it with one-half lb. of finely-minced and well-[blanched] onions, and complete the cooking of both by stewing.

This done, transfer the neck to a dish and keep it hot. Add one-quarter pint of boiling Béchamel sauce to the onions, and rub them quickly through tammy or a fine sieve. Heat this Soubise; finish it with one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour it over the neck.

Border the dish with a thread of rather light meat glaze, and serve.

[1368—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU A LA TOSCANE]

Shorten the neck of lamb; suppress the cartilaginous portions and stiffen it in butter. Garnish the bottom of an oval earthenware dish, of the same size as the neck, with a layer of Anna potatoes (No. [2203]). Set the neck on this layer, and cover it [452] ]over with a second layer of the same potato preparation. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan; cook in the oven as for Anna potatoes, and take care that the bottom be so well set as to prevent any of the juices of the joint from exuding and depositing on it.

Serve the dish as it stands.

[1369—LEG AND SHOULDER OF LAMB]

All the recipes given under Haunch and Double (pair of legs), may be applied to the legs and shoulders of house lamb.

The shoulders are often grilled, the operation being effected over a moderate fire after the joints have been incised lattice-fashion, and the same applies to the breast. The “à la Boulangère” treatment (No. [1307]) admirably suits the legs and shoulders of house lamb.

[1370—CUTLETS]

According to custom, lamb cutlets are usually served like “Noisettes,” i.e.

, two are allowed for each person.

As a rule, when they are to be grilled, they are previously dipped in melted butter and sprinkled with fine bread-crumbs.

When they are to be [sautéd] they are treated [à l’anglaise] (egg and bread-crumbs) except when, subject to their mode of preparation, they have to be served plain or stuffed.

[1371—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT A LA BULOZ]

Prepare:—(1) a rizotto (No. [2238]) with truffles, in proportion to the number of cutlets; (2) some very reduced Béchamel sauce, combined with one-half oz. of grated Parmesan per one-fifth pint of the sauce, and allowing one small tablespoonful of it for each cutlet.

Half-grill the cutlets; dry them, and cover them, on both sides, with the reduced sauce. As soon as the cutlets have received their coat of sauce, dip them, one by one, into beaten egg ([anglaise]); roll them in very fine bread-crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan. Thoroughly press this coating of bread-crumbs with the flat of a knife, that it may adhere well to the egg and produce a crust at the close of the operation. This done, set the cutlets in a sautépan of very hot, clarified butter, and brown them on both sides.

Dish the rizotto in a very even layer; set the cutlets in a circle on the rice, and fix a frill to the bone of each.

[1372—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT
MARÉCHALE]

Treat the cutlets [à l’anglaise], and cook them in clarified butter.

Dish them in a circle, with a fine slice of truffle upon each; [453] ]and, in their midst, set a nice heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.

[1373—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT
MILANAISE]

Treat the cutlets [à l’anglaise], but add to the bread-crumbs the quarter of their weight of grated Parmesan.

Cook the cutlets in clarified butter. Dish them in a circle, and, in their midst, arrange a garnish “à la milanaise” (see Côte de Veau

à la Milanaise,

No. [1258].)

[1374—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT
MORLAND]

Slightly flatten the cutlets, dip them in beaten egg, and roll them in finely-chopped truffle, which in this case answers the purpose of bread-crumbs. Press the truffle with the flat of a knife, that it may thoroughly combine with the egg, and cook the cutlets in clarified butter. Dish them in a circle; garnish the centre of the dish with a mushroom purée (No. [2059]), and surround the cutlets with a thread of buttered meat glaze.

[1375—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT
NAVARRAISE]

For twelve cutlets, make a preparation consisting of four oz. of ham, four oz. of cooked mushrooms, and one-half oz. of chopped, red capsicums; the whole being cohered by means of a very reduced Béchamel sauce, flavoured with truffle essence.

Grill the cutlets on one side only, and garnish them on their grilled side with a tablespoonful of the above preparation, which should be shaped like a dome upon them.

Set the cutlets upon a tray as soon as they are garnished; sprinkle the surface of the preparation, covering them with grated cheese and melted butter, and place them in the oven, that their cooking may be completed and the [gratin] formed. Meanwhile, toss twelve seasoned half-tomatoes in oil. Dish these tomatoes in a circle; set a cutlet upon each, and border with a thread of tomato sauce.

[1376—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT
NELSON]

Grill the cutlets, and, at the same time, prepare as many bread-crumb [croûtons] as there are cutlets, and of exactly the same shape as the latter. Fry the [croûtons] in butter, and coat them with foie-gras purée.

Place a grilled cutlet on each coated [croûton], and a slice of truffle on the kernel of each cutlet. Now, by means of a [454] ]piping-bag, fitted with an even pipe, cover the cutlets with some soufflé au Parmesan (No. [2295a]

); dish them in a circle, and put them in the oven for five minutes, that the [soufflé] may poach.

After withdrawing them from the oven, garnish the centre of the dish with a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

[1377—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT FARCIES A LA PÉRIGUEUX]

Cook the cutlets in butter on one side only, and cool them under slight pressure.

Garnish the cooked side of each with a tablespoonful of forcemeat with butter (No. [193]), which should have received a copious addition of chopped truffles. Shape this forcemeat dome-fashion, by means of the flat of a small knife, dipped in tepid water, and set the cutlets, one by one, on a tray. Now put them in the front of the oven for seven or eight minutes that the forcemeat may be poached.

Dish them in a circle, and pour a Périgueux sauce in their midst.

[1378—EPIGRAMMES D’AGNEAU]

A lamb “epigram” consists of a cutlet, and a piece of braised breast, cooled under slight pressure and cut to the shape of a heart of the same size as the cutlets. The cutlets and the pieces of breast must be treated [à l’anglaise], and [sautéd] or grilled according to circumstance.

Epigrams should be dished in a circle, the cutlets and the pieces being alternated.

They are usually garnished with braised chicory, or [macédoines] of early-season vegetables.

[1379—RIS D’AGNEAU]

Lamb sweetbreads are, according to circumstances, either used as the principal constituent of various preparations, or they answer the purpose of a garnish.

Due allowance having been made for their particular size, they may be treated after the same manner as veal sweetbreads; that is to say, once they have been cleared of blood, they are [blanched] and braised according to the nature of the selected mode of preparation.

If they are to form part of a large garnish, cohered by means of a brown sauce, they are braised brown and glazed. If they stand as an adjunct to poached fowl, they may be either studded or left plain, and braised white.

Apart from their two uses as principal and garnishing [455] ]constituents, the undermentioned methods of preparation, explained in the various preceding series, may be applied to them; viz.:—

[Attereaux], Brochettes, [Croustades], Pâté

chaud, Vol au vent, &c.

[1380—SAUTÉ[!-- TN: acute invisible --] D’AGNEAU PRINTANIER]

Prepare the following garnish:—Twenty new carrots, cut to the shape of large olives, cooked in consommé and glazed; twenty pieces of turnip, similarly treated; fifteen small, new onions, cooked in butter; twenty very small new potatoes, cooked in butter (or [à l’anglaise] if desired); three tablespoonfuls of peas; the same quantity of French beans cut into lozenge-form, and an equal quantity of small flageolet beans. The three last vegetables should be cooked [à l’anglaise], and kept rather firm.

Cut two lbs. of shoulder and breast of lamb into pieces weighing two oz., and completely cook them in butter without any moistening.

This done, transfer them to a dish. Swill the saucepan with three tablespoonfuls of water; add five tablespoonfuls of pale meat glaze; heat without boiling, and finish with two and one-half oz. of butter.

Put the pieces of lamb and the vegetables into this sauce, and gently rock the saucepan, that all the ingredients may partake of the sauce.

Serve in a hot timbale.

[1381—PILAW D’AGNEAU]

Proceed exactly as explained under “Pilaw de Mouton” (No. [1354]), only bear in mind that the time allowed for cooking should be proportionately shortened in view of the greater tenderness of lamb’s meat.

[1382—CURRIE D’AGNEAU]

Proceed as for “Currie de Mouton,” after duly allowing, as above, for the greater tenderness of the meat.

[456]
]PORK

Relevés and Entrées.

[1383—FRESH LEG OF PORK]

[1384—FRESH PORK FILLETS]

[1385—FRESH NECK OF PORK]

Relevés of fresh pork are only served at family and bourgeois meals. They are always roasts and allow of all the dry or fresh vegetable garnishes, as well as the various vegetable purées, and the pastes, such as macaroni, noodles, polenta, gnochi, &c. I shall, therefore, give only a few recipes, and shall select Fresh Neck of Pork as the typical joint.

[1386—FRESH NECK OF PORK A LA CHOUCROÛTE]

Roast the neck of pork and withdraw it from the oven a few minutes before it is done.

Keep it in the stove for an hour, that its cooking may be completed gently; but remember, that if a stove is not available, the cooking of the piece should be well finished in the oven; for pork is indigestible when it is not thoroughly well cooked.

Meanwhile, prepare a garnish of sauerkraut (No. [2097]), and, during the last hour of its cooking, sprinkle it frequently with the fat of the neck.

Dish the neck; clear the sauerkraut of any superfluous fat, and set it round the piece of meat in spoonfuls; slightly pressing it in so doing.

[1387—FRESH NECK OF PORK WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTS]

Roast the neck of pork. Three-parts cook the Brussels sprouts; completely drain them, and put them round the piece of meat, that they may complete their cooking in its gravy and fat, being frequently basted the while.

For this preparation it is well to roast the neck in an earthenware dish, in which it may be served with its garnish—a much better plan than that of transferring it to another dish.

[1388—FRESH NECK OF PORK WITH RED CABBAGE A LA FLAMANDE]

Roast the neck of pork; dish it and surround it with a garnish of red cabbages, prepared à la Flamande (No. [2098]).

[457]
]Sprinkle the garnish of vegetables with the gravy of the joint, three-parts cleared of grease.

[1389—FRESH NECK OF PORK WITH STEWED APPLES]

Roast the neck of pork and see that it is well done.

Meanwhile, peel and mince one lb. of apples; put them in a saucepan with one oz. of sugar and a few tablespoonfuls of water; seal the lid of the saucepan well down, so as to concentrate the steam inside, and cook quickly. When about to serve, thoroughly work the apple purée with a wire whisk, in order to smooth it. Dish the neck with its gravy, three-parts cleared of grease, and serve the apple purée separately in a timbale.

[1390—FRESH NECK OF PORK A LA SOISSONNAISE]

Roast the neck on a dish that may be sent to the table.

When it is three-parts done, set one quart of cooked and well-drained haricot beans round it, and complete the cooking gently. Serve the dish as it stands.

[1391—BOILED SALTED PORK A L’ANGLAISE]

Cook plainly in water three lbs. of shoulder, breast, or gammon of bacon, and add thereto a garnish of vegetables as for boiled beef, and six parsnips.

Serve the vegetables round the piece of meat, and send a pease-pudding (prepared as directed below) separately.

Pease-pudding: put one lb. of a purée of yellow or green, split peas into a basin, and mix therewith three oz. of melted or softened butter, three eggs, a pinch of salt, another of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Pour this purée into a pudding basin, and poach it in steam or in a [bain-marie].

This preparation may also be put into a buttered and flour-dusted napkin; in which case, close the napkin up purse-fashion, tying it up securely with string, and cook the pudding in the same stewpan with the pork. This procedure is simpler than the first and quite as good.

Very often a purée prepared from split, yellow or green peas, is used instead of the pudding given above.

[1392—PORK PIE]

Completely line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with thin slices of raw ham, and prepare, for a medium-sized dish:—(1) one and one-half lbs. of fresh pork in collops, seasoned with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with two tablespoonfuls of dry Duxelles (No. [223]), a pinch of parsley and another of chopped [458] ]sage; (2) one and one-half lbs. of raw, sliced potatoes, and one large, chopped onion.

Garnish the bottom of the dish with a litter of collops; cover with potatoes and onions; spread another litter of collops, and begin again in the same order. Add one-quarter pint of water; cover with a layer of fine paste or puff-paste trimmings, which should be well sealed down round the edges; [gild] with beaten egg; streak the paste with the prongs of a fork; make a slit in the centre of the covering of paste for the escape of steam, and bake in a moderate oven for about two hours.

Fresh-pork Cutlets.

[1393—FRESH-PORK CUTLETS A LA CHARCUTIERE]

Season the cutlets; dip them in melted butter, and sprinkle them with fine raspings. Grill them gently, and baste them from time to time.

Dish them in a circle; pour a Charcutière sauce in their midst, and serve a timbale of potato purée separately.

Charcutière sauce for eight or ten cutlets: prepare one pint of Robert sauce (No. [52]) and mix with it, just before dishing up, two oz. of gherkins, cut in short [julienne] fashion or minced.

[1394—FRESH-PORK CUTLETS A LA FLAMANDE]

Season the cutlets, and fry them on both sides in butter or fat.

Meanwhile, peel and slice some eating apples, allowing three oz. of the latter for each cutlet, and put them in an earthenware dish. Set upon them the half-fried cutlets; sprinkle with fat, and complete their cooking, as well as that of the apples, in the oven.

Serve the dish as it stands.

[1395—CÔTES DE PORC FRAIS A LA MILANAISE]

Treat the cutlets [à l’anglaise], but remember to add one quart of grated Parmesan to the bread-crumbs. Cook them gently in butter.

Dish in a circle; set a milanaise garnish (No. [1258]) in the centre, and serve a tomato sauce separately.

[1396—FRESH-PORK CUTLETS WITH PIQUANTE OR ROBERT SAUCE]

Season and grill or [sauté] the cutlets. Dish them in a circle, with Piquante or Robert sauce in their midst.

N.B.—(1) Cutlets accompanied by either of the two above-mentioned sauces, may be treated with melted butter and bread-crumbs [459] ]and grilled or [sautéd]; but, in this case, the sauce should be served separately.

(2) For cutlets with Piquante sauce, border the dish on which they are served with gherkins, and send the sauce either separately or on the dish.

(3) All the garnishes given under fresh neck of pork may accompany grilled or [sautéd] pork cutlets.

[1397—SUCKING PIG]

Stuffed or not stuffed, sucking pigs are always roasted whole, and the essential point of the procedure is that they should be just done when their skin is crisp and golden.

While cooking, they should be frequently basted with oil; the latter being used in preference to any other fatty substance owing to the greater crispness it gives to the skin of the sucking pig.

Serve a sauceboat of good gravy at the same time.

[1398—ROAST STUFFED SUCKING PIG A L’ANGLAISE]

For a sucking pig of medium weight, prepare the following forcemeat:—Cook three lbs. of large onions with their skins, and let them cool. This done, peel and finely chop them, and put them in a basin with one lb. of the chopped fat of kidney of beef, one lb. of soaked and well-pressed bread-crumb, four oz. of parboiled and chopped sage, two eggs, one oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper and a little nutmeg.

Mix the whole well, and put this stuffing inside the sucking pig. Sew up the latter’s belly; put it on the spit, and roast as directed above.

Serve separately, either a timbale of apple sauce or of mashed potatoes. Four oz. per lb. of selected raisins, washed and swelled in tepid water, are sometimes combined with the apple sauce.

[1399—ZAMPINO DE MODÈNE]

Zampino, or stuffed leg of pork, is a product of Italian pork-butchery.

It is cooked like a ham, after having been tied in a napkin lest its skin burst.

Served hot, it is accompanied by a Madeira or tomato sauce, a garnish of boiled, braised, or [gratined] cabbages; of French beans, or of potato purée.

[1400—ZAMPINO FROID]

Zampino is served cold, alone or mixed with other meats; but it is used more particularly as a hors-d’œuvre. For this purpose, cut it into the thinnest possible slices.

[460]
][1401—OREILLES A LA ROUENNAISE]

After having singed and well cleaned the inside of the pig’s ears, cook them in water, salted to the extent of one-third oz. of salt per quart, together with a garnish of vegetables as for pot-au-feu. This done, cut them across in suchwise as to have the end where the flesh is thickest on one side, and the thinnest end on the other side of the strips.

Chop up the thick portion; cut the other into collops, and put the whole into a saucepan with one-quarter pint of half-glaze with Madeira.

Cook gently for thirty minutes. This done, add to the minced ears, one and one-half lbs. of sausage meat and a pinch of chopped parsley. Divide up the whole into portions, weighing three oz; wrap each portion in a piece of pig’s caul, insert a collop of ear into the wrapping, and give the latter the shape of ordinary [crépinettes]. Grill gently, until the cooking is three-parts done; sprinkle with butter and raspings, and complete the cooking of the [crépinettes], colouring them in so doing.

Dish in a circle, and serve a Madeira sauce at the same time.

[1402—OREILLES A LA SAINTE MENEHOULD]

Cook the ears as explained above, and let them cool.

Cut them in two, lengthwise; coat them with mustard; sprinkle them with melted butter and raspings, and grill them gently.

Ears are usually served plain, but they may be accompanied by apple sauce.

[1403—PIEDS DE PORC TRUFFÉS[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Truffled pig’s trotters may be bought already prepared; all that remains to be done, therefore, is to grill them.

Sprinkle them with melted butter; grill them very gently, basting them from time to time the while, and serve them with a Périgueux sauce.

[1404—PIEDS DE PORC PANES]

Sprinkle the pig’s trotters copiously with melted butter, and put them on the grill, which should be very hot.

Grill them very gently, turning them with care; and serve them plain, or with a tomato purée separately.

[461]
]Boudins.

[1405—BOUDIN BLANC ORDINAIRE]

Chop and afterwards pound one-half lb. of very lean fresh pork, and three-quarters lb. of fat fresh bacon. Add one and one-half oz. of foie gras, and rub through a fine sieve.

Put this forcemeat into a basin, and finish it with two fresh eggs; one and one-half oz. of chopped onion, cooked in butter without colouration; one-sixth pint of thick cream; one-half oz. of salt, a pinch of white pepper, and a little nutmeg.

Mix the whole well; put it into the gut, without overfilling the latter, and tie round with string at regular intervals. Now set the boudins on a willow lattice, and plunge them into a receptacle full of boiling water. From this moment keep the water at 203° F., and let the boudins poach for twelve minutes. This done, withdraw them, and let them cool.

Before serving them, grill them very gently, and, as a precautionary measure, wrap them in buttered paper. Do not [cisel] them, but prick them with a pin.

Serve a purée of potatoes with cream at the same time.

[1406—BOUDINS BLANCS DE VOLAILLE]

Pound separately one lb. of raw chicken fillets and three-quarters lb. of fresh fat bacon.

Combine the two products in the mortar; pound again with the view of thoroughly mixing them, and add three oz. of chopped onion, cooked in butter without colouration, together with a little thyme and bay; one-half oz. of salt, a pinch of white pepper, and a little nutmeg.

Mix the whole well, and add four eggs, one by one, working the forcemeat vigorously the while with the pestle.

Rub through a fine sieve; return the forcemeat to the mortar, and add thereto, little by little, one pint of boiled and very cold milk.

Put the forcemeat into the gut; poach it in the [bain-marie], and set it to grill, observing the same precautions as in the preceding recipe.

Serve a purée of potatoes with cream at the same time as the boudins.

[1407—BOUDINS NOIRS]

Make the following preparation, putting the various ingredients into a basin:—One lb. of very fresh pork fat, cut into large dice, and half-melted; one sixth pint of thick cream; two eggs; six oz. of chopped onions, cooked in lard without colouration; [462] ]two-thirds oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper, and a little spice; a pinch of wild-thyme leaves, and a leaf of bay, both chopped.

Mix the whole well with one pint of blood of pork, and put it into the gut without over-filling it, for it should be borne in mind that the preparation swells in poaching.

Set the boudins on willow lattices or baskets; plunge them into boiling water, and, from that time, keep the latter at 203° F.

Let them poach for twenty minutes, and remember to prick all those that, by rising to the surface, show they contain air, which might burst their skins. When about to serve them, [cisel] them on both sides, and grill them very gently.

They are generally accompanied by a potato purée with cream.

[1408—BOUDINS NOIRS A L’ANGLAISE]

Have ready the same preparation as for black boudins, given above, and add to it three-quarters lb. of rice, cooked in consommé and kept somewhat firm. Poach as before, and leave to cool. [Cisel] the boudins, and grill them over a moderate fire.

Serve very hot with an apple purée.

[1409—BOUDINS NOIRS A LA FLAMANDE]

Have ready the same preparation as for black boudins, and add to it three oz. of moist sugar, two oz. of raisins, and the same quantity of currants, washed and swelled in lukewarm water.

Put the preparation into the gut, and poach in the usual way.

When about to serve, grill these boudins gently, after the manner of black boudins, and send them to the table with a sugared apple sauce.

Crépinettes and Sausages.

[1410—CRÉPINETTES TRUFFÉES]

Add to two lbs. of very good sausage-meat, four oz. of chopped truffles, and two tablespoonfuls of truffles cooking-liquor. Mix the whole well; divide into portions weighing two and one-half oz., and wrap each portion in a square of pig’s caul. Shape the crépinettes thus formed rectangularly. Sprinkle with melted butter, and grill gently.

Dish them in a circle; pour a Périgueux sauce in their midst, and serve a potato purée with cream separately.

[463]
][1411—CRÉPINETTES A LA CENDRILLON]

Prepare the [crépinettes] as above; wrap them in a double sheet of buttered paper; over them set a heap of cinders covered with burning embers, and keep the latter alive for a space of twenty minutes, when the cooking operation should be completed.

Formerly, the above was the mode of procedure, but nowadays the [crépinettes] are merely enveloped, each in an oval layer of paste. They are then [gilded], their tops are streaked, and, after having been laid on a tray, they are baked in a warm oven for twenty minutes.

This done, they are dished on a napkin.

[1412—SAUCISSES ANGLAISES]

The most well-known of English sausages are those of Cambridge.

They are cooked like the French kind, and they are often served at breakfasts as an adjunct to bacon. Sometimes, too, they serve as a garnish to roast fowls, young turkeys, &c.

Their seasoning is often excessive.

[1413—SAUCISSES AU VIN BLANC]

First Method.—Put the sausages in a well-buttered sautépan; poach them gently in the oven, and dish them on thin crusts of bread fried in butter.

For twelve sausages, swill the sautépan with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce this to half; add one-sixth pint of half-glaze sauce; boil for a few minutes, and finish, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter. Pour this sauce over the sausages.

Second Method.—Stiffen the sausages in butter; add one-third pint of white wine, and complete their poaching. Set them on fried crusts; reduce the wine by two-thirds, and add thereto the yolk of one egg, a few drops of lemon juice, two tablespoonfuls of pale melted meat-glaze, and three oz. of butter. Pour the sauce over the sausages.

[1414—SAUCISSES DE FRANCFORT ET DE STRASBOURG]

Plunge the sausages into a saucepanful of boiling water, and then poach them for no more than ten minutes; should they be allowed to cook for a longer time, they would only lose their quality.

They may be served with a hors-d’œuvre dish of grated horse-radish, and an apple sauce separately; but their proper adjunct is braised sauerkraut.

[464]
]Ham.

However deservedly pork may be praised, it could never have been included among the preparations of first-class cookery (except subsidiarily) had it not been for the culinary value of hams.

With the latter it triumphs, and, be they of Bayonne or York, of Prague or Westphalia, no other joints enjoy more favour than these as Relevés.

Though it is somewhat difficult to decide which one of the various kinds of ham should be adopted, in my opinion that of Bohemia, known as Prague ham, is best for a warm dish, and that of York for a cold dish.

The latter is also excellent when served hot, but, even so, for this purpose it is inferior to the Prague kind, the delicacy of which is incomparable.

Still, York ham ranks first in the opinion of many, for it should be remembered that England has no rival in the preparation of seasoned pork, and her famous bacon, the renown of which is enormous, constitutes one of the greatest discoveries in the science of gastronomy.

[1415—HOT HAM—Its Preparation]

York ham is the kind chiefly used.

After having soaked it in cold water for six hours, brush it and remove the pelvic bone; put it into a stewpan of cold water, and set to boil. This done, keep the water just simmering, that the ham may cook after the poaching method.

There is no need of any seasoning or aromatic garnish. As often as possible, leave the ham to cool in its cooking-liquor. If the ham is to be braised, take it out of the water thirty minutes before it is cooked. Skin it; clear it of any superfluous fat, and put it in a braising-pan, just large enough to hold it, with two-thirds pint of some such wine as Madeira, Port, Xeres, Chypre, &c. Select the wine in accordance with the title of the dish on the menu.

Having thoroughly sealed down the lid of the pan, put it in the oven, and continue the cooking of the ham gently for one hour, turning it over from time to time during the operation. If it have to reach the table whole, glaze it at the last moment.

Its usual adjunct is a light and highly seasoned half-glaze sauce, combined with some of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease.

[465]
][1416—JAMBON A LA CHANOINESSE]

Having poached the ham as explained above, braise it in white wine, adding thereto three oz. of mushroom parings.

Dish and send separately a garnish of large, fresh noodles, cohered with butter and a Soubise purée, and completed with a [julienne] of truffles.

Serve separately a half-glaze sauce, combined with the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and reduced.

[1417—JAMBON A LA CHOUCROÛTE]

Completely cook the ham by poaching; skin and trim it.

If served whole, send, separately, some braised sauerkraut and potatoes, freshly cooked [à l’anglaise]. Serve a half-glaze sauce with Rhine wine at the same time.

If served already carved, arrange the slices in a circle on a round dish; put the sauerkraut in their midst, and border with the potatoes.

Serve, separately, the same sauce as before.

[1418—JAMBON A LA MAILLOT]

Poach the ham; braise it, and glaze it at the last moment. Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish, arranged in alternate heaps:—Carrots and turnips, cut to the shape of large, elongated olives, cooked separately in consommé, and glazed; small onions cooked in butter; braised and trimmed half-lettuces; peas and French beans cohered with butter separately.

Serve apart a thickened gravy combined with some of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease.

[1419—JAMBON A LA PRAGUE SOUS LA CENDRE]

Poach the ham and drain it on a dish. Remove the skin and all the black, outside parts. Prepare a piece of patty paste large enough to enclose the ham. Besprinkle the surface of the ham with powdered sugar; glaze quickly at the salamander, and place the ham (glazed side undermost) on the layer of paste.

Draw the ends of the paste towards each other; seal them together, with the help of a little moisture, in such wise as to enclose the ham completely; turn the latter over, and put it on a tray with the sealed side of the paste lying underneath. [Gild] and streak, make a slit in the middle of the paste for the escape of steam, and put the joint in the oven.

Leave it there until the paste is dry and well coloured. After taking the ham out of the oven, inject into it, through a [466] ]prepared hole, a large wineglassful of Port wine or Sherry. Stop up the hole with a little pellet of paste; dish, and serve immediately.

Serve at the same time a garnish of Gnochi, spinach, or Soufflé au Parmesan (No. [2295a]

).

The best adjunct to Prague ham is a very light glaze prepared with Port wine, and buttered at the last minute.

[1419a—JAMBON DE PRAGUE A LA METTERNICH]

Prepare a ham “sous la cendre” as described above.

Send to the table with it as many fine collops of foie-gras, tossed in butter and each covered with a nice slice of truffle, as there are diners. Send also a timbale of asparagus-heads.

The waiter in charge then puts a slice of ham, a collop of foie-gras, and a tablespoonful of asparagus-heads on each plate and serves.

The sauce should be a Madeira flavoured with truffle essence.

[1419b—JAMBON DE PRAGUE A LA NORFOLK]

Prepare a ham as in No. [1419]. Serve each slice of it with one collop of braised veal sweetbread and one tablespoonful of fresh peas à la paysanne.

Send as an adjunct the braising-liquor of the veal sweetbread.

[1420—VARIOUS GARNISHES FOR BRAISED HAM]

The garnishes best suited to ham relevés are:—

Spinach; new broad beans; braised lettuce; endives; fresh peas à la paysanne.

Noodles; Spaghetti; various Macaronis; Gnochi; Purées of fresh beans, broad beans.

The most usual accompanying sauce is half-glaze with Madeira.

[1421—JAMBON SOUFFLÉ]

This is a variety of the ham [soufflés] given hereafter. The preparation used is the same, and it may be made either from raw or from cooked ham.

After having completely boned it, but for the end bone, which must be kept, cook the ham, and cool it.

Now cut it horizontally, one-half inch above its bone, from the extremity of the end bone to the head of the latter. At the last-mentioned point, make a vertical incision meeting and ending at the first; remove the cushion of ham, which should by now be quite separated from the rest of the joint, and put aside for some future purpose.

[467]
]All that remains of the ham, therefore, is a thick piece adhering to the end-bone. Carefully trim this piece, and surround it with a strong band of buttered paper, tied on by means of string, the purpose of which is to hold in the [soufflé].

This done, put a sufficient quantity of soufflé de Jambon (described hereafter) on the remaining meat of the ham to reconstruct it entirely. Smooth the surface of the preparation with the flat of a knife (dipped in cold water), and so finish off the contour of the ham. Decorate according to fancy; place the dish containing the ham on a saucepanful of boiling water, and put the two in the oven with the view of obtaining the maximum amount of steam, which latter helps to poach the [soufflé]. This souffléd ham may be poached just as well in a steamer.

When the preparation is properly poached, remove the band of paper; dish the ham, and send one of the garnishes or sauces given for braised ham separately.

[1422—SOUFFLÉS AU JAMBON]

Ham [soufflés] are prepared after two recipes; in the first, cooked ham is used, and in the second the ham is raw. This last procedure is derived from [mousseline] forcemeat, and, inasmuch as the preparation resulting from it is less flimsy than that of the first, it is preferred when a large number of people have to be served.

[1423—THE PREPARATION OF THE SOUFFLÉ WITH COOKED HAM]

Finely pound one lb. of lean, cooked ham, and add thereto, one after the other, three tablespoonfuls of very cold Béchamel sauce. Rub through a fine sieve; put the resulting purée into a sautépan, and finish with one-quarter pint of very creamy and boiling Béchamel sauce, flavoured with ham essence; four egg-yolks, and the whites of six eggs, beaten to a stiff froth.

This preparation may be combined with three oz. of grated Parmesan, and the two flavours will be found to blend very agreeably.

Prepared in this way, it is particularly well suited to the “Jambon Soufflé,” the recipe whereof is given above (No. [1421]).

[1424—THE PREPARATION OF THE SOUFFLÉ WITH RAW HAM]

Following the quantities given under “Farce mousseline” (No. [195]), make the [soufflé] preparation, and add thereto four [468] ]tablespoonfuls of reduced and very cold Béchamel sauce per lb. of raw ham.

Keep the forcemeat somewhat stiff, and finish it with the whites of four eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, per lb. of ham.

[1425—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON ALEXANDRA]

Make the [soufflé] preparation after one of the methods given above. Spread it in layers in a buttered timbale, alternating the layers of [soufflé] with others of asparagus-heads cohered with butter. Smooth the surface to the shape of a dome; decorate with a fine slice of truffle, and cook in a moderate oven, of a temperature suited to this kind of preparation. Serve the [soufflé] as soon as it is ready. If it be small, spread only one layer of asparagus-heads in the middle of it.

If it be large, spread two or three layers of asparagus-heads.

[1426—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON CARMEN]

Add to the selected one of the two [soufflé] preparations—either will do—for one lb. of ham, the purée of one-half lb. of pressed tomatoes, cooked in butter with one half-capsicum, rubbed through a sieve and very much reduced.

Dish the [soufflé] in a buttered timbale; sprinkle the surface with a pinch of red capsicum, cut in fine [julienne] fashion, and cook as described above.

[1427—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON GASTRONOME]

Dish the selected ham [soufflé] preparation in layers in a buttered timbale, and between each layer of it spread a litter of noodles, tossed in butter.

Sprinkle the surface with chopped truffles; set a ball of truffle well in the centre of the [soufflé], and cook in the usual way.

[1428—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON MILANAISE]

Dish the ham [soufflé] preparation in a buttered timbale, and spread it in alternate layers with a fine garnish à la Milanaise (No. [1258]).

Deck the surface with small pieces of poached macaroni, fried in butter; sprinkle with grated cheese, and cook the [soufflé] in a moderate oven.

[1429—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON PERIGOURDINE]

Dish the [soufflé] preparation in layers in a buttered timbale, and between each layer spread a litter of truffle slices. Besprinkle the surface with chopped truffles, and cook the [soufflé] in the usual way.

[469]
][1430—MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES CHAUDES DE JAMBON]

[Mousses] and [Mousselines] are made from the same preparation as “Farce mousseline de jambon,” in pursuance of the general principles given under No. [195].

The need of differentiating the terms arises from the fact that [mousses] are poached in a mould the contents of which are sufficient for a number of people, whereas [mousselines] are spoon-moulded quenelles, shaped like eggs.

In the preparation of “Farce mousseline de jambon” it is necessary to allow, in the salt seasoning, for the amount of salting the ham has already received.

If the meat of the ham is not very red, the colour of the forcemeat may be intensified by means of a little vegetable red, in order that it may be of a distinct pink shade.

[1431—TREATMENT AND ACCOMPANIMENT OF HAM MOUSSE]

Put the forcemeat in a deep border-mould, somewhat like a Charlotte, and poach it under cover in a [bain-marie].

That the poaching may be regular, keep in water at a constant temperature of 205° or 208° Fahrenheit, and allow forty-five minutes for the operation in the case of a [mousse] made in a quart mould.

The preparation is seen to be cooked when it swells and rises in the mould.

As soon as this occurs, withdraw the latter from the [bain-marie]; let it stand for five minutes, that its contents may settle; turn it upside-down on a dish, and wait two minutes before removing the mould. In any case, do not take off the mould until the liquid which has drained from it, all round the dish, has been soaked up. Ham [mousses] are chiefly accompanied by Suprême sauce, or Veloutés with curry or paprika; sometimes, too, a highly-seasoned and buttered half-glaze sauce, with Madeira, Port, or Marsala may be used. The most suitable garnishes for ham [mousses] are those I have already given for Ham.

[1432—TREATMENT AND POACHING OF HAM MOUSSELINES]

As I have already stated, [mousselines], like quenelles, are moulded with a spoon.

They may also be laid, by means of a piping-bag, on the bottom of the well-buttered sautépan in which they are to be poached; they are shaped like [meringues], even or grooved, [470] ]and, in either case, they are decorated with lozenges, crescents, or discs, &c., of ham or truffle.

Having carried out the selected method of preparation, cover them with boiling water, salted to the extent of one-third oz. per quart, and poach them for from eighteen to twenty minutes, taking care to keep the water at a constant temperature of 208° F. These [mousselines] may also be poached dry in a steamer or in a drying stove.

[1433—MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON ALEXANDRA]

Decorate the [mousselines], prepared according to one of the two methods above described, with one lozenge of ham and another of truffle. Poach them; drain them well, and dish them in the form of a crown. Cover them with an Allemande sauce, flavoured with ham essence, and combined with two oz. of grated Parmesan per pint of the sauce, and glaze quickly.

After taking the [mousselines] out of the oven, set in their midst a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

[1434—MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON A LA FLORENTINE]

Spread a layer of shredded spinach, fried in butter, on a dish.

Upon it set the poached and well-drained [mousselines]; cover them with the same sauce as that prescribed for the “Mousselines Alexandra,” and glaze them quickly.

[1435—MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON A LA HONGROISE]

Poach the [mousselines], the forcemeat of which must be flavoured with paprika. Drain them; dish them in a circle; cover them with Hongroise sauce, and glaze them quickly.

On withdrawing the dish from the oven, set a fine heap of baked cauliflowers with cheese in the middle of it.

[1436—MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON AUX PETITS POIS]

Proceed exactly as described under No. [1433], but substitute for the asparagus-heads a garnish of very small peas cohered with butter.

Cold Ham.

[1437—JAMBON FROID A LA GELÉE]

When ham is to be dished cold, it should, if possible, be allowed to cool in its cooking-liquor, except when it has to be boned. In the latter case, take it out as soon as it is cooked; incise it underneath, following the edge of the cushion; detach and remove the bones.

[471]
]Now roll up the ham; bind it tightly in a piece of linen, and cool it under pressure.

Whether boned or unboned, skin it when it is cold; remove some of its fat, and sprinkle it with cold, melted aspic until the latter covers it evenly.

Dish it up; fix a frill to it, and surround it with fine aspic dice.

[1438—JAMBON SOUFFLÉ FROID]

Proceed exactly as in No. [1421], but substitute for the [soufflé] preparation therein described the cold ham [mousse] below.

[1439—MOUSSE FROIDE DE JAMBON]

The Preparation of the [Mousse].—Finely pound one lb. of very lean, cooked ham; add to it one-third pint of cold Velouté, and rub through a fine sieve.

Put the resulting purée into a basin; season it; work it on ice for a few minutes, and mix therewith, little by little, one-quarter pint of melted aspic. Finally combine two-thirds pint of half-beaten cream with it.

The [mousse] may be moulded, either in an aspic-[clothed] mould, decorated with truffles, as explained under No. [956], or in small [cassolettes], lined with a thin strip of paper inside their brims, after the manner of small, cold [soufflés].

As the dishing and serving of [mousses] are always the same, the reader is begged to refer to those recipes dealing with the question.

[1440—MOUSSE FROIDE DE JAMBON A L’ALSACIENNE]

Take a deep, square dish and garnish it, half-full, with fine, ham [mousse]. Even the surface of this layer of [mousse], and, when it has set, arrange upon it some shells, raised by means of a spoon dipped in hot water, from a foie-gras Parfait. As soon as this is done, pour over the foie-gras shells, a sufficient quantity to cover them of half-melted succulent chicken aspic with Madeira, and let this jelly set.

When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of ice.

[1441—MOUSSE DE JAMBON AU BLANC DE POULET]

Garnish a deep, square dish with some ham [mousse]. When the latter has set, arrange thereon the [suprêmes] of a very white, poached fowl. These [suprêmes], cut into regular collops, should be coated with a white chaud-froid sauce.

Cover with aspic, as directed under “Mousse à l’Alsacienne,” and serve.

N.B.—If desired, the collops need not be coated with chaud-froid sauce, but, in this case, they should be covered with aspic.

[472]
][1442—MOUSSELINES FROIDES DE JAMBON]

These [mousselines] are made from the same preparation as that used for the [mousse], and, but for the basic ingredient, which is not the same, they are treated after the manner described under “Petites Mousses de Homard” (No. [958]). To avoid needless repetition, therefore, the reader will kindly substitute the word ham for lobster in the recipe just referred to.

[473]
]CHAPTER XVI
POULTRY (VOLAILLE)

Although the term “poultry” (Fr. volaille), in its general sense, implies Turkeys, Geese, Ducks and Pigeons, just as well as Fowls, only the latter are meant, from the culinary standpoint, when the word “Volaille” appears on a menu.

Four qualities of fowl are recognised in cookery, and each plays its part, has its uses, and is quite distinct from the other three. We have:—

(1) Pullets and capons; usually served whole, either as relevés or roasts.

(2) Chickens, so-called “à la Reine”; used for [sautés] and chiefly for roasts.

(3) Spring chickens; best suited to [en cocotte] or grilled preparations.

(4) Chicks; served only [en cocotte] or grilled.

[Suprêmes] and [ailerons] of fowl, which are among the finest entrées, are supplied by chickens à la Reine or by Spring chickens.

Finally, there are the giblets, consisting of the pinions, necks, gizzards, and livers of fowl, which give rise to a number of preparations, the recipes whereof I shall give briefly at the end of the series.

[1443—PULLETS AND CAPONS FOR RELEVÉS]

Pullets and capons for relevés and entrées are poached or [poëled]; sometimes, but more rarely, they are braised.

The birds to be treated by poaching are trussed with the claws folded back and inserted into the belly; their fillets and legs are rubbed with lemon, so as to keep them white, and they are then covered with thin slices of larding bacon.

The ingredients for chicken poaching stock were given under No. [249]. The bird is known to be cooked when the blood which issues from a prick on the leg is white or faintly pink.

These fowls are sometimes larded or studded. When this is to be done, dip the legs and belly of a trussed and [474] ]lemon-rubbed fowl into boiling white stock; this will be found to sufficiently harden the flesh to allow of its being treated in the required way. The products used for studding and larding are, according to circumstances, ham or tongue, truffles or mushrooms, and sometimes, the red part of a carrot for the larding. Only truffles, ham and tongue are used for studding.

[Poëled] fowls are trussed as above; they are covered with slices of bacon in order that the fillets may be protected during the first stages of the cooking; then they are cooked in butter on [poëling]-aromatics, under cover and in a deep, thick saucepan. When the piece is almost cooked, just moisten it a little, either with rich poultry-stock, with the cooking-liquor of truffles or mushrooms, with Madeira, red or white wine, &c. This moistening serves in the basting of the fowl and must therefore be renewed if it reduces too quickly. After having been cleared of all grease, it is always added to the sauce which accompanies the piece of poultry.

Braised fowls are always treated after the manner described under No. [248]; they are not rubbed with lemon, but they are covered with slices of bacon. The latter should only cover the breast, but be thick, notwithstanding; for they protect the belly, which, without them, would shrivel by the time the legs cooked.

The covering of bacon is essential to all pieces of poultry, whether these be poached, [poëled], braised or roasted.

[1444—THE WAY TO SERVE POULTRY RELEVÉS QUICKLY AND HOT]

I feel bound to call the reader’s attention to this very important point in culinary work:—

Owing to the difficulties involved in the carving of the fowl and the placing and arranging of the pieces and their garnish upon the consumers’ plates—both of which operations require dexterity and expertness, which those in charge very often do not possess, or thanks to the inefficiency of particular installations, or what not, I have noticed for some considerable time, that the method of serving large pieces of poultry is, in many cases, very far from being the right one.

For, indeed, how often does not the diner find himself presented with a plate of fowl which is neither appetisingly dainty nor yet sufficiently hot! It follows from this, that all the care and trouble devoted by a chef to the preparation of the dish are entirely wasted. Now, I have tried to improve this state of affairs, by planning a method of serving which would be at once simple and expeditious, without necessarily being devoid of tastefulness and presentability.

[475]
]In the first place, it is my practice to remove the fowl’s two [suprêmes], in the kitchen, and to keep them warm in a little cooking-liquor until the last minute. Secondly, I remove all the bones of the breast, and I reconstruct the fowl with a garnish in keeping with the dish, i.e., either a [mousseline] forcemeat, pilaff rice combined with cream, foie gras and truffles, spaghetti, or noodles with cream.

Having properly smoothed and arranged the selected garnish, the fowl may now be placed, either at one end of any but a round dish, or on a low cushion of fried bread, on which it may be set firmly.

It may also be entirely coated with Mornay sauce, sprinkled with grated cheese, and speedily glazed.

When the body of the bird is dished, its garnish should be set round it in fine, tartlet crusts; its [suprêmes], quickly sliced, should be distributed among the tartlets, and the dish sent to the table with the sauce separately.

By this means, it reaches the table hot, it is served quickly and cleanly; and every person gets a slice of meat, and not garnish only, as was so often the case formerly.

Instead of tartlets, one may use thin [croûtons] of bread, of the size of the slices of chicken, and fried in fresh butter.

Thus, for a “Poularde à la Derby,” after having stuffed the pullet with rice, suppressed the bones of the breast, and removed the [suprêmes]; all that is necessary is to properly shape the rice, and to dish the fowl on a cushion.

This done, prepare as many [croûtons] and slices of foie-gras, [sautéd] in butter, as there are diners, and arrange them round the pullet—the slices of foie-gras lying on the [croûtons]. Now, quickly cut the [suprêmes] into slices; put one of these on each slice of foie-gras, and on each of the latter put a slice of truffle. Put the pullet, thus prepared, in the oven for a few minutes; let it get very hot, and send it to the table with the sauce separately.

In the dining-room the Maître-d’hôtel quickly serves the garnished [croûtons] on hot plates, beside each [croûton] he puts a tablespoonful of the rice with which the pullet has been stuffed, and, finally, a tablespoonful of sauce.

In less than two minutes after its entrance into the dining-room, the pullet is thus served warm to each person.

Of course, the above measures refer to the fowl that has to be dished whole and presented; but, when this is not required, the rice withdrawn from the cooked bird need only be set in the centre of a deep, square entrée dish (fitted with a cover), [476] ]and surrounded by the sliced [suprêmes], with intercalated slices of foie-gras and truffle. The sauce is also served separately in this case. Cover the dish, so that it may stand and keep hot a few minutes, if necessary, without spoiling.

The legs, which are rarely served at a well-ordered dinner, remain in the kitchen together with the carcass.

I cannot too strongly recommend the system just described, whenever the circumstances allow of its being put into practice. It is the only one that ensures an efficient service, calculated to give entire satisfaction to all concerned.

[1445—POULARDE ALBUFERA]

Stuff the pullet with the rice prescribed under No. [2256], and poach it. Dish it and coat with Albuféra sauce.

Surround with small tartlet crusts, garnished with truffles raised by means of a spoon the size of a pea; quenelles of the same shape; small button mushrooms, and cocks’ kidneys. Cohere this garnish with Albuféra sauce.

Between each tartlet, place a slice of salted tongue, cut to the shape of a cock’s comb.

[1446—POULARDE ALEXANDRA]

Having larded the pullet with tongue and truffle, poach it.

This done, remove the [suprêmes], and replace them by [mousseline] forcemeat; smooth this forcemeat, giving it the shape of the pullet in so doing, and set to poach in the front of the oven.

Now, coat the piece with Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly. Dish, and surround with tartlet-crusts garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered with butter; place a collop of the reserved [suprêmes] (which should have been kept hot) on each tartlet, and border the dish with a thread of pale glaze.

[1447—POULARDE AMBASSADRICE]

Stud the pullet with truffles, cover it with a Matignon (No. [227]), wrap it in muslin, and braise it.

Remove the [suprêmes]; suppress the bones of the breast; fill the carcass with a garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and arrange this garnish as already described under No. [1444].

Slice the [suprêmes], and put them back on the garnish, in suchwise as to reconstruct the breast of the fowl. Coat the piece with somewhat stiff and fine suprême sauce; dish it, and surround it with lamb sweet-breads, studded with truffles, [477] ]braised and glazed, and alternate the sweetbreads with little faggots of asparagus-heads.

[1448—POULARDE ANDALOUSE]

[Poële] the pullet. Dish it, and coat it with its [poëling]-liquor, combined with [tomatéd] half-glaze sauce. On either side of it set some capsicums, stuffed with rice, and some roundels of egg-plant, seasoned, dredged and tossed in butter; alternating the two products.

[1449—POULARDE A L’ANGLAISE]

Poach the pullet, and coat it with a Béchamel sauce flavoured with chicken-essence.

Dish it and surround it with slices of salted tongue, laid tile-fashion on either side; and heaps of carrots and turnips (cut to the shape of balls) and peas and celery, at either end. All these vegetables should be cooked [à l’anglaise]; i.e., either in boiling water or in steam.

[1450—POULARDE A L’AURORE]

Poach the pullet without colouration; dish it, and coat it with an “Aurore Sauce” (No. [60]). Surround it with medium-sized, decorated quenelles; and trimmed oval slices of salted tongue, arranged according to fancy.

[1451—POULARDE A LA BEAUFORT]

Stuff the pullet with a fine foie-gras, stiffened in the oven for twenty minutes with a little Madeira, and cooled.

Fill up the pullet with a little, fine sausage-meat; stud it with truffles, and braise it in short moistening.

Dish it on a low cushion, and surround it with braised, lambs’ tongues, alternated with artichoke-bottoms, garnished with a rosette of Soubise purée. As an adjunct, use the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease.

[1452—POULARDE BOUILLIE A L’ANGLAISE]

Cook the pullet in light, white stock with one lb. of breast of bacon and a garnish of vegetables as for pot-au-feu. Dish, and surround with the bacon, cut into slices.

Serve, separately, an English parsley sauce, and a sauceboat of the pullet’s cooking-liquor.

[1453—POULARDE AUX CÉLERIS]

[Poële] the pullet, and baste it towards the close of the operation with strong veal stock.

Prepare a garnish of braised celery.

[478]
]Dish the pullet; surround it with the braised celery, and cover the latter with the [poëling]-liquor.

[1454—POULARDE AUX CHAMPIGNONS A BRUN]

[Poële] the pullet, and swill the saucepan with mushroom essence. Add this swilling-liquor (reduced) to one-quarter pint of half-glaze with Madeira.

Dish the pullet, and surround it with twenty grooved and cooked mushroom-heads. Serve separately the reduced half-glaze, to which add two oz. of fresh butter.

[1455—POULARDE AUX CHAMPIGNONS A BLANC]

Poach the pullet.

Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce flavoured with mushroom essence.

Surround it with twenty grooved, cooked and very white mushroom-heads.

[1456—POULARDE CHANOINESSE]

Prepare a “Poularde Soufflée” after recipe No. [1518]. Dish it, and surround it with small heaps of crayfishes’ tails, alternated with small [croûtons] of fried bread, on each of which place a collop of the [suprêmes]. Finish off with a slice of truffle on each collop of the [suprêmes].

Serve a Mornay sauce, finished with crayfish butter, separately.

[1457—POULARDE CHÂTELAINE]

[Poële] the pullet without letting it acquire too much colour.

Dish it, and surround it with small artichoke-bottoms, stewed in butter and garnished with Soubise.

Alternate the artichoke-bottoms with small heaps of chestnuts cooked in consommé and glazed.

Pour a little thickened [poëling]-liquor on the bottom of the dish, and serve what remains of it, separately, in a sauceboat.

[1458—POULARDE CHEVALIÈRE]

Remove the [suprêmes], and the minion fillets. Lard the former with two rows of truffles and two rows of tongue; trim the minion fillets; make five or six slits in each; insert a thin slice of truffle half-way into each slit, and draw the respective ends of the two fillets together in suchwise as to form two rings. Put the [suprêmes] and the minion fillets each into a buttered sautépan, and cover the latter.

Remove the pullet’s legs, keeping the skin as long as possible; bone them to within one and one-third inches of the [479] ]joints, and cut off the claws, aslant, just below the same joints. Garnish the boned regions with godiveau prepared with cream close the opening by means of a few stitches of strong cotton, and truss each leg in such a manner as to imitate a small duck.

Poach these stuffed legs in stock made from the pullet’s carcass.

Also poach the [suprêmes] and the minion fillets in good time, with a little mushroom cooking-liquor, and a few drops of lemon juice.

With a pinch of flour mixed with water, stick a fried [croûton] (the shape of a pyramid, three inches high and of two inch base) in the middle of a dish.

Around this pyramid, arrange the two stuffed legs and the two [suprêmes]; putting each of them on a decorated quenelle with the view of slightly raising them. Set the minion fillets on the legs, and, between the latter and the [suprêmes], lay small heaps of cocks’ combs and kidneys, and some very white mushroom-heads. Pierce the [croûton] with a [hatelet] garnished with one truffle, one fine cock’s comb, and a large mushroom.

Serve a suprême sauce separately.

N.B.—This dish is generally bordered, either with noodle-paste, white English paste, or with a chased silver border.

[1459—POULARDE CHIMAY]

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of half-poached noodles, tossed in butter, and combined with a little cream and three oz. of foie-gras cut into large dice.

[Poële] it gently; dish it, and coat it with some of its [poëling]-liquor, thickened.

Distribute over the pullet a copious amount of raw noodles, [sautéd] in clarified butter; and serve the remainder of the thickened [poëling]-liquor separately.

[1460—POULARDE CHIPOLATA]

[Poële] the pullet and put it into a [terrine à pâté] with a garnish consisting of small, glazed onions; [chipolata] sausages, poached in butter; chestnuts cooked in consommé; fried pieces of bacon; and, if desired, some small glazed carrots.

Add the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and simmer for ten minutes before serving.

[1461—POULARDE A LA CHIVRY]

Poach the pullet. Dish it and coat it with Chivry sauce (No. [78]).

Serve a [Macédoine] of new vegetables; cohered with butter or cream, separately.

[480]
][1462—POULARDE CUSSY]

Braise the pullet. Dish it and surround it with whole truffles, cooked in [Mirepoix] with Madeira, and alternated with fine, grilled mushrooms, garnished with artichoke purée.

In front of the pullet set a small, silver shell, in which shape a pyramid of large cocks’ combs, heated in butter.

[1463—POULARDE EN DEMI-DEUIL]

Between the skin and the fillets of the fowl insert a few fine slices of raw truffle. Lard the pullet and poach it.

When it is ready, strain the cooking-liquor through a napkin; reduce it, and add it to a very white suprême sauce, containing slices of truffle.

Dish the pullet; cook it with some of the sauce, and send what remains, separately, in a sauceboat.

[1464—POULARDE DEMIDOFF]

[Poële] the pullet. When it is three-parts done, put it into a cocotte and surround it with the following garnish, prepared in advance and stewed in butter; viz:—one-half lb. of carrots and five oz. of turnips, cut into grooved crescents, one inch in diameter; five oz. of small onions cut into thin roundels, and five oz. of celery.

Complete the cooking of the pullet with this garnish, and add to it, when about to serve, three oz. of truffles, cut to the shape of crescents, and one-sixth pint of chicken stock.

Serve the preparation in the cocotte, after having cleared the liquor of all grease.

[1465—POULARDE DERBY]

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. [2256]; and [poële] it. Dish, and surround it with collops of foie-gras, tossed in butter (each set on a small, fried [croûton]), and alternate these with large, whole truffles, cooked in champagne.

As an adjunct, serve the pullet’s cooking-liquor, cleared of all grease, combined with the cooking-liquor of the truffles and one-sixth pint of veal gravy. Reduce the whole to one-sixth pint and thicken with arrow-root.

[1466—POULARDE DIVA]

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. [2256], and poach it without colouration.

Dish it, and coat it with suprême sauce, flavoured with paprika.

Send a garnish consisting of [cèpes] with cream, separately.

[481]
]N.B.—This dish was served for the first time to Mme. Adelina Patti, the great singer.

[1467—POULARDE DEVONSHIRE]

Bone the breast of a fine pullet; season it inside, and fill it with a chicken forcemeat, prepared with cream and mixed with half its weight of very fine sausage-meat.

In the middle of the pullet set a nice salted and cooked calf’s tongue, trimmed and cleared of all cartilage; and place it so that its thin end lies in the region of the bird’s tail.

Sew up the pullet’s belly with thin string, allowing the skin sufficient play not to tear under the pressure of the forcemeat, which swells while cooking. Truss, cover the pullet with a slice of larding bacon, poach, and drain it.

When about to serve, make an incision around the breast with the point of a knife; detach the stuffing with the blade of a knife, passed horizontally on a level with the spine, and cut off, at a stroke, the piece consisting of the pullet’s breast, the stuffing, and the calf’s tongue.

Dish the carcass with the legs and wings still attached, on a low cushion. Cut the breast, lengthwise, into two; and, if the fowl has been properly stuffed, the tongue should then be found neatly bisected. Slice each half, and return them to the carcass in suchwise as to reconstruct the bird and give it an untouched appearance.

Coat lightly with Allemande sauce, combined with very red tongue, cut into dice; and surround with a border of timbales made from a purée of fresh peas (No. [2196]), each set on an artichoke bottom. Serve a sauceboat of the same sauce as that with which the pullet was coated.

[1468—POULARDE A L’ÉCOSSAISE]

Stuff the pullet with pearl barley cooked in white consommé, well drained, and combined, per lb., with an equal quantity of fine sausage-meat (to which has been added a chopped onion, cooked in butter), and two tablespoonfuls of cream.

Poach the pullet in the usual way; dish it and coat it with Écossaise sauce, i.e.

, an Allemande sauce, combined with a [brunoise] of vegetables: carrots, onions, leeks, and celery, and a large part of the reduced pullet’s poaching-liquor.

Serve a garnish of French beans with cream, separately.

[1469—POULARDE ÉDOUARD VII]

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. [2256], and poach it without colouration. Dish it, and coat it with a [482] ]curry sauce, combined with two oz. of red capsicums in dice, per pint of sauce.

Serve a garnish of cucumbers with cream, separately.

N.B.—This dish was originated at the Carlton Hotel on the occasion of His Majesty King Edward VII.’s Coronation.

[1470—POULARDE EN ESTOUFFADE]

Half-[poële] the pullet in a saucepan.

Line the bottom and sides of an oval cocotte with thin slices of ham. Put the half-[poëled] pullet into this cocotte, together with one lb. of carrots, onions, and celery, all three sliced, fried in butter and moderately seasoned with salt and pepper.

Swill the saucepan with one-third pint of strong veal stock; reduce to half; put this reduced stock into the cocotte; cover the latter; seal down the lid with a thread of paste, and complete the cooking of the pullet in a somewhat hot oven for three-quarters of an hour.

[1471—POULARDE A L’ESTRAGON]

Poach the pullet, and add to the ordinary garnish a bunch consisting of five or six sprigs of tarragon.

Dish, and decorate the pullet’s breast with a nice spray of [blanched] tarragon leaves.

Reduce and strain the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and serve it separately.

[1472—POULARDE A LA FAVORITE]

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of rice, prepared after recipe No. [2256].

Poach it; dish it, and coat with a suprême sauce.

Surround with a garnish of cocks’ combs and kidneys, and slices of truffle.

[1473—POULARDE A LA FERMIÈRE]

Prepare the pullet as for No. [1470]; but, instead of lining the cocotte with slices of ham, cut the latter into dice and add these to the garnish, together with four oz. of peas and four oz. of French beans, cut into small lozenges.

[1474—POULARDE A LA FINANCIÈRE]

Braise the pullet.

Dish it, and surround it with a garnish consisting of small heaps of quenelles made from chicken, [mousseline] forcemeat; grooved, button-mushroom heads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; [483] ]slices of truffle, and [blanched] olives. Add a small quantity of half-glaze sauce prepared with truffle essence.

Send a sauceboat of the same sauce separately.

[1475—POULARDE A LA GASTRONOME]

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of noodles, slightly tossed in butter, and [poële] it.

Swill the saucepan with one-quarter pint of champagne. Dish the pullet and surround it with medium-sized truffles, cooked in champagne, alternated with small heaps of cooked and glazed chestnuts, and place a cock’s kidney between each heap.

Serve, separately, a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence and combined with the reduced swilling-liquor.

[1476—POULARDE A LA GODARD]

Braise the pullet brown.

Dish it and surround it with spoon-moulded quenelles of forcemeat, combined with chopped mushrooms and truffles; large oval quenelles, decorated with tongue and truffle; grooved button-mushroom heads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; glazed small lambs’ sweetbreads; and olive-shaped truffles.

Slightly coat this garnish with Godard sauce, combined with some reduced braising-liquor, and send what remains of the latter in a sauceboat.

[1477—POULARDE A LA GRAMMONT]

Poach the pullet, and let it half-cool.

Now remove the [suprêmes] and the bones of the breast; fill up the cavity in the carcass with a garnish consisting of larks’ fillets, [sautéd] just before dishing; grooved button-mushroom heads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; and cohere the whole by means of Béchamel sauce, finished with truffle essence.

Slice the [suprêmes], and return them to their place, setting a slice of truffle between each. Coat the pullet with a stiff Allemande sauce; sprinkle with grated Parmesan and melted butter; glaze quickly, and serve at once.

[1478—POULARDE GRAND HÔTEL]

Cut up the fowl as for a [sauté] dish, and cook it in butter, under cover. Then set the pieces in a very hot cocotte, and distribute thereupon five oz. of raw truffles cut into thick slices and slightly salted and peppered.

Swill the sautépan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine; add a little chicken stock; pour this liquor into the cocotte; [484] ]thoroughly close the latter, and put it in a very hot oven for eight or ten minutes with the view of cooking the truffles.

Serve the preparation as it stands in the cocotte.

N.B.—This dish was invented at the Grand Hotel at Monte Carlo, as a means of offering to those who could not wait for the preparation of truffled pullets a substitute of a somewhat similar nature to the latter.

[1479—POULARDE AU GROS SEL]

Poach the pullet, and add to it ten small olive-shaped carrots and ten small onions.

Dish, and surround the bird with the carrots and the onions, arranged in small heaps.

Serve, separately, a sauceboat containing the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and a cellar

of kitchen salt.

[1480—POULARDE A LA GRECQUE]

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. [2253], and [poële] it.

Dish it, and coat it with very strong reduced chicken stock, thickened by means of arrowroot.

[1481—POULARDE A LA HONGROISE]

[Poële] the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with Hongroise sauce, and surround it with timbales of pilaff rice, combined with tomato pulp, cut into dice.

Send a Hongroise sauce separately.

[1482—POULARDE AUX HUÎTRES]

Boil the pullet gently in light, white stock, until it is well cooked. With the cooking-liquor prepare a suprême sauce, and add thereto the almost entirely reduced poaching-liquor of twenty-four oysters, one-half pint of cream, and the twenty-four oysters (cleared of their beards).

Dish the pullet, and pour this sauce over it.

[1483—POULARDE A L’INDIENNE]

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; coat with Indienne sauce, and serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne, prepared after recipe No. [2254], separately.

[1484—POULARDE ISABELLE DE FRANCE]

Stuff the pullet with rizotto, combined with two oz. of truffle slices and eighteen crayfishes’ tails, and poach it in white stock containing one bottle of Chablis wine.

With the pullet’s cooking-liquor prepare a highly-seasoned [485] ]suprême sauce. Dish the bird on a small cushion; coat it with sauce, and surround it with fine black truffles, cooked in champagne, and set each on a small, round, and slightly hollowed [croûton] of fried bread.

Serve the remainder of the sauce separately.

[1485—POULARDE A L’IVOIRE]

Poach the pullet, keeping it very white. Dish it, and serve it plain.

Send, separately, an ivory sauce, a sauceboat of the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and some kind of garnish, such as macaroni or noodles with cream [cèpes], cucumber, &c.

[1486—POULARDE LADY CURZON]

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. [2256], and poach it.

Dish it, and coat it with an Indienne sauce.

A garnish of [cèpes] or cucumber with cream may be served at the same time.

[1487—POULARDE LOUISE D’ORLÉANS[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Insert a whole foie gras into the pullet, the former having been studded with truffles, poached for fifteen minutes in some succulent veal stock, and one glassful of old Madeira, and afterwards

cooled.

Stiffen and colour the pullet for twenty minutes in the oven, sprinkling it with butter the while.

Cover it entirely with thick slices of truffles; cover these with slices of bacon, and envelop the whole in a layer of plain dough, which should be well sealed up. Set the pullet, prepared in this way, on a baking-tray; make a slit in the top of the paste for the escape of steam during the cooking process, and cook in a moderate oven for one and three-quarter hours.

This pullet is served as it stands, cold or hot.

[1488—POULARDE A LA LOUISIANE]

Stuff the pullet with one lb. of maize with cream, combined with one and one-half oz. of capsicums cut into dice, and [poële] it. Dish it and border it, on either side, with timbales of rice and fried bananas, arranged alternately. At either end of the dish set a [croustade] of lining paste, garnished with maize “à la crème.”

[1489—POULARDE A LA LUCULLUS]

Braise the pullet.

Dish it, and surround it with (1) fine truffles, cooked in champagne, alternated with (2) large, round quenelles of [mousseline] forcemeat. At either end of the dish, which should [486] ]be oval, set a small silver shell of the same height as the cushion on which the pullet lies.

Garnish these shells with very white, curled cocks’ combs and cocks’ kidneys. Add the reduced braising-liquor to a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence; cover the bottom of the dish with some of this sauce, and send what remains, separately, in a sauceboat.

[1490—POULARDE A LA MANCINI]

Poach the pullet.

Remove the [suprêmes]; suppress the bones of the breast without touching either the pinions or the legs, and set the carcass, thus prepared, on a very low cushion of bread or rice, so that it may be steady.

Fill the carcass with macaroni, cohered with cheese and cream, and combined with three oz. of foie gras in dice, and one-half oz. of a [julienne] of truffles.

Slice the [suprêmes], and reconstruct them on the macaroni, placing a fine slice of truffle between each. Coat the pullet with a stiff and unctuous cream sauce; sprinkle with grated cheese, and glaze quickly at the salamander.

Serve separately a creamy suprême sauce.

[1491—POULARDE MARGUERITE DE SAVOIE]

Fry quickly ten larks in butter, insert these into a fine pullet, and braise the latter in veal stock and white Savoy wine, in equal quantities. Prepare a milk polenta (No. [2294]); spread it on a tray in layers one inch thick, and let it cool. Now stamp it with a round cutter one and one-half inches in diameter, and, a few minutes before serving, dredge these roundels of polenta, and brown them in clarified butter.

Just before dishing up, sprinkle them with grated Parmesan, and glaze them quickly at the salamander.

Dish the pullet on a very low cushion of fried bread; surround it with the glazed roundels of polenta; pour a little of the fowl’s cooking-liquor, thickened, over the dish, and send what remains of it in a sauceboat.

Serve at the same time a vegetable-dish of white Piedmont truffles, slightly heated in a little butter and some consommé.

[1492—POULARDE A LA MÉNAGÈRE]

Poach the pullet in some rather gelatinous white stock. Slice six carrots, six new potatoes, six new onions; put the whole into a saucepan, and cook gently in the fowl’s poaching-liquor, with the lid of the saucepan off. When the vegetables [487] ]are cooked, and the liquor is sufficiently reduced, set the pullet in a special oval cocotte, and cover it with the prepared vegetables and their cooking-liquor.

[1493—POULARDE MIREILLE]

[Poële] the pullet.

Dish it; surround it with small timbales of rice with saffron, alternated with tartlet crusts, garnished with [concassed] tomatoes cooked in butter, and set a fine, stoned olive on each tartlet.

Serve a tomato sauce separately.

[1494—POULARDE A LA MONTBAZON]

Stud the pullet with truffles, and poach it.

Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it with poached lamb sweetbreads, spoon-moulded quenelles of [mousseline], chicken forcemeat, and grooved mushroom heads, arranged alternately.

Serve a suprême sauce separately.

[1495—POULARDE A LA MONTE CARLO]

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it on the one side with quenelles of pink, [mousseline], chicken forcemeat, and on the other with a border of fair-sized, very black truffles.

[1496—POULARDE A LA MONTMORENCY]

Lard the pullet with truffles, and braise it in Madeira.

Set it on an oval dish, and, at either end of the latter, place a fine, decorated quenelle; on either side of the fowl arrange some artichoke-bottoms, garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

Serve separately a half-glaze sauce with Madeira, to which the braising-liquor of the pullet has been added.

[1497—POULARDE A LA NANTUA]

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with a suprême sauce, finished with crayfish butter, and surround it with small heaps of quenelles with crayfish butter, crayfishes’ tails, and slices of truffle.

[1498[!-- TN: original reads "498"--]—POULARDE A L’ORIENTALE]

Stuff the pullet with one lb. of pilaff rice with saffron, and poach it.

Remove its [suprêmes]; suppress the breast-bones by means of scissors, without touching the rice, and coat the latter with [488] ]Béchamel sauce coloured with tomato sauce and flavoured with saffron.

Dish; reconstruct the sliced [suprêmes] on the rice, and set between each slice another of chow-chow stewed in butter. Cover the pullet with the same sauce as that indicated above, and surround it with quarters of chow-chow cooked in butter, or serve this garnish separately.

[1499—POULARDE AUX ŒUFS D’OR]

[Poële] the pullet without letting it acquire overmuch colour.

Strain the [poëling]-liquor; clear it of all grease; add thereto a little tomato purée, and thicken it with arrowroot. Finish with three oz. of butter, the juice of half a lemon, and a little cayenne.

Dish the pullet; surround it with a border of egg-shaped croquettes of egg with truffles, and send the sauce separately.

[1500—POULARDE A LA PARISIENNE]

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; cover it with Allemande sauce, and decorate it on top with slices of truffles and salted tongue cut to the shape of cocks’ combs.

Surround with spoon-moulded quenelles of chicken forcemeat, half of which should have been combined with chopped truffles, and the other half with chopped, salted ox-tongue.

Arrange the quenelles round the fowl, alternately, and border the dish with a thread of pale glaze.

[1501—POULARDE ADELINA PATTI]

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. [2256], and poach it in white, chicken stock. Dish it on a low cushion; cover it with a suprême sauce, flavoured with paprika, and surround it with fair-sized artichoke-bottoms, each garnished with a fine truffle, coated with pale meat glaze.

Serve separately a sauceboat of the same sauce as that already used in coating the pullet.

[1502—POULARDE A LA PAYSANNE]

Brown the pullet in butter, and put it into an oval cocotte.

Around it set a garnish consisting of four oz. of the red part of a carrot, three oz. of onion, and two oz. of celery, all three minced somewhat finely. Complete the cooking of the pullet with the vegetables, sprinkling it often the while with good veal stock.

Serve the preparation as it stands in the cocotte.

[489]
][1503—POULARDE A LA PÉRIGORD[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of truffles in the shape of large olives, cooked in two oz. of melted pork fat, and mixed, while hot, with one lb. of fresh, grated pork fat, rubbed through a sieve. String the piece, taking care to close all its openings, and [poële] it gently.

Dish it; coat it with a very fine half-glaze sauce, made from the [poëling]-liquor and finished with truffle essence.

[1504—POULARDE PETITE MARIÉE]

Poach the pullet in a little white stock, and surround it (when setting it to cook) with six small new onions, six small carrots, six small new potatoes, and one-quarter pint of freshly-shelled peas.

Set the pullet in a cocotte with the garnish of vegetables, and coat it with its reduced cooking-liquor, combined with some excellent suprême sauce.

[1505—POULARDE A LA PIÉMONTAISE[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Stuff the pullet with two-thirds lb. of rizotto combined with one-half lb. of white sliced truffles, and [poële] it in the usual way.

Dish it, and serve at the same time a thickened chicken gravy to which has been added the reduced [poëling]-liquor.

[1506—POULARDE A LA PORTUGAISE]

Stuff the pullet with three-quarters lb. of rice, combined with five oz. of peeled and [concassed] tomatoes, cooked in butter.

[Poële] the pullet. Dish it; coat it with a Portugaise sauce, combined with the [poëling]-liquor, and surround it with a garnish of medium-sized tomatoes, stuffed with rice “à la Portugaise.”

[1507—POULARDE PRINCESSE]

Poach the pullet.

Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence and finished with two oz. of asparagus-head butter per pint of sauce. Surround it with [croustades] of Duchesse potatoes, rolled in breadcrumbs and melted butter, fried, emptied, then garnished with asparagus-heads cohered with butter, and each surmounted by a fine slice of truffle. Between each [croustade] set a faggot of very green asparagus-heads.

[1508—POULARDE PRINCESSE HÉLÈNE]

Stuff the pullet with rice prepared after recipe (No. [2256]), and poach it. Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it with spinach [subrics], cooked at the last moment; add [490] ]to this garnish some shavings of white truffles, barely heated in butter, and set in a shell placed behind the fowl.

[1509—POULARDE RÉGENCE]

Stuff the pullet with one lb. of [mousseline] forcemeat of chicken, combined with three oz. of crayfish purée, and poach it.

Dish it; coat it with Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, and surround it with the following garnish, arranged in small heaps:—Spoon-moulded quenelles of [mousseline], chicken forcemeat; white, curled, cocks’ combs; slices of raw foie gras, stamped out with a round cutter, and tossed in butter; small, grooved, cooked, and very white mushrooms; olive-shaped truffles, and one round quenelle decorated with truffles at either end of the dish.

[1510—POULARDE DE LA REINE ANNE]

[Poële] the pullet.

When it is ready, remove the [suprêmes] and the breast bones, and fill the carcass with a garnish of macaroni and cream, combined with foie gras and truffle dice. Cover the macaroni with Mornay sauce; glaze quickly, and dish the pullet on a low cushion.

Surround it with small tartlet crusts garnished with cocks’ combs and kidneys, cohered with Allemande sauce, and set a slice of the [suprêmes] on each tartlet. Put a silver shell containing a pyramid of truffles behind the fowl.

Serve an Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, separately.

[1511—POULARDE REINE MARGOT]

Stuff the pullet with two-thirds lb. of [mousseline] forcemeat of chicken, combined with two oz. of almond purée, and poach it.

Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, finished with a little almond milk, and surround it with quenelles prepared with pistachio butter and quenelles prepared with crayfish butter, arranged alternately.

[1512—POULARDE REINE MARGUERITE]

Poach the pullet.

Remove the [suprêmes] and the breast bone, without touching either the wings or the legs, and set the carcass, thus trimmed, on a low cushion of bread or rice. Finely slice the [suprêmes]; add as many slices of truffle as there are collops of [suprêmes], and combine the whole with a [soufflé] preparation with Parmesan, which should not be too light.

[491]
]Reconstruct the pullet with this preparation; smooth the surface, and surround the base of the pullet with a band of paper, so that it may keep its form. Set some thin slices of Gruyère cheese upon it; dish it, and cook it in a moderately hot oven.

[1513—POULARDE AU RIZ]

Poach the pullet.

Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce, flavoured with chicken essence. Surround it with a garnish of rice, cooked in the pullet’s poaching-liquor, and moulded in small, buttered, timbale moulds.

[1514—POULARDE ROSSINI]

[Poële] the pullet.

Remove the [suprêmes]; slice them, and dish them in the form of a crown upon a round dish, alternating them with collops of foie gras, tossed in butter. Pour a very strong chicken stock finished with truffle essence in their midst.

Serve, separately, a timbale of noodles with butter covered with raw noodles tossed in butter.

[1515—POULARDE SAINTE ALLIANCE]

Heat in butter ten fine truffles seasoned with salt and pepper; sprinkle them with a glassful of excellent Madeira, and leave them to cool thus in a thoroughly sealed utensil. Now put these truffles into a fine pullet, and [poële] it just in time for it to be sent to the table.

When the pullet is ready, quickly cook as many ortolans, and toss in butter as many collops of foie gras as there are diners, and send them to the table at the same time as the pullet, together with the latter’s [poëling]-liquor, strained and in a sauceboat.

The waiter in charge should be ready for it with three assistants at hand, and he should have a very hot chafer on the sideboard. The moment it arrives he quickly removes the [suprêmes], cuts them into slices, and sets each one of these upon a collop of foie gras, which assistant No. 1 has placed ready on a plate, together with one of the truffles inserted into the pullet at the start.

Assistant No. 2, to whom the plate is handed forthwith, adds an ortolan and a little juice, and then assistant No. 3 straightway places the plate before the diner.

The pullet is thus served very quickly, and in such wise as to render it a dish of very exceptional gastronomical quality.

N.B.—The name “Sainte Alliance” which I give to this dish (a name that Brillat-Savarin employs in his “Physiology [492] ]of Taste” in order to identify a certain famous toast) struck me as an admirable title for a preparation in which four such veritable gems of cookery are found united—the [suprêmes] of a fine pullet, foie gras, truffles, and ortolans.

This dish was originally served at the Carlton Hotel in 1905.

[1516—POULARDE SANTA-LUCIA]

Stuff the pullet with truffles, prepared as for No. [1515], and braise it in Marsala. Dish it on a low cushion, and surround it with small tartlets of Gnochi “à la Romaine,” alternated with collops of foie gras, tossed in butter.

[1517—POULARDE SICILIENNE]

Poach the pullet.

Raise the fillets, leaving the wing-bones on the carcass; suppress the breast bones, and fill the resulting cavity with macaroni, cohered with the strong liquor of braised beef “à la Napolitaine,” and combined with dice of truffles and foie gras, cocks’ combs and kidneys.

Envelop the piece in pig’s caul, giving the former its natural shape; sprinkle with raspings and melted butter, and set in the oven that the pig’s caul may cook and colour.

Dish on a low cushion, and coat with chicken glaze with butter.

Surround with tartlet crusts, each garnished with a slice of the [suprêmes], covered with a slice of foie gras tossed in butter, and surmounted by a slice of truffle.

Send a chicken glaze with butter separately.

[1518—POULARDE SOUFFLÉE]

Poach the pullet.

Raise the [suprêmes], and cut them into thin slices; suppress the breast-bones by means of scissors, and stuff the bird with one lb. two oz. of [mousseline] forcemeat of chicken, combined with one-third lb. of foie-gras purée. Spread this preparation in layers, and between each of the latter set alternate slices of [suprême] and truffle.

Reconstruct the bird exactly; smooth its surface; deck it with bits of truffle, salted tongue, and boiled white of egg; place the dish on a deep tray containing a little boiling water, the steam of which assists the poaching of the preparation, and poach in a moderate oven.

When about to serve, coat the pullet with Allemande sauce flavoured with truffle essence.

N.B.—The use of a [bain-marie] consisting of a deep pan [493] ]containing boiling water, wherein the dish which holds the pullet is placed, is highly recommended, but the ideal method of poaching this sort of preparations is by means of a steamer.

[1519—POULARDE STANLEY]

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of rice, three oz. of mushrooms, and three oz. of a [julienne] of truffles. Poach it with one lb. two oz. of sliced and [blanched] onions, seasoned with a pinch of curry. When the pullet is ready, rub the cooking-liquor and the onions through tammy. Add one-third pint of Velouté and one-third pint of cream to this cullis; reduce to a stiff consistence; rub once more through tammy, and finish with one-sixth pint of cream.

[1520—POULARDE SOUVAROFF]

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of foie gras and five oz. of truffles cut into large dice, and three-parts [poële] it.

Now put it into a cocotte with ten fair-sized truffles stewed in Madeira for a few minutes in the same saucepan as that in which the pullet was [poëled]. Moisten with one-sixth pint of veal stock; close the cocotte; seal the cover with a thread of paste, and complete the cooking in a moderate oven for thirty minutes.

Serve the fowl as it stands in the cocotte.

[1521—POULARDE SYLVANA]

Stuff the pullet with one lb. of mushrooms, tossed in brown butter, and half-brown it in the oven.

Meanwhile put one pint of fresh peas into a saucepan, together with ten small new onions, one small lettuce cut [julienne]-fashion, and a faggot consisting of parsley stalks, chervil, and a sprig of mint. Add salt, sugar, two oz. of butter, and mix the whole up together.

Moisten with two small tablespoonfuls of water; cover and half-cook, taking care to toss from time to time during the operation. When the pullet is half-cooked, put it into a cocotte lined with a thin layer of paste, overreaching the edges of the cocotte by about two inches.

Surround it with a garnish of peas; cover it with a slice of bacon, and close the cocotte with its cover. Draw the overlapping paste over the latter; seal it down with some white of egg, that it may be hermetically closed, and set in the oven for about forty-five minutes.

Serve the preparation as it stands in the cocotte. A sauceboat of good chicken gravy may be served separately.

[494]
][1522—POULARDE TALLEYRAND]

[Poële] the pullet; raise the [suprêmes], and cut these into large dice. Mix them with an equal quantity of macaroni, cut short, and thickened with cream sauce combined with Parmesan, and add enough foie gras and truffles, cut into large dice, to equal half the weight of the [suprêmes].

Suppress the breast-bones; fill the fowl with the above preparation, and cover the latter with a layer of [mousseline] forcemeat, reconstructing the bird naturally in so doing. Deck the surface with a crown of truffle slices; cover with buttered paper, and set in the oven (1) to poach the forcemeat, (2) to thoroughly heat the preparation beneath.

Dish the pullet; pour a little half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence and combined with slices of truffle, over the dish, and serve what remains of the sauce separately.

[1523—POULARDE TOSCA]

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after No. [2256], and [poële] it in short moistening. Dish it on a low cushion of fried bread, and surround it with a garnish of braised, tuberous fennel-roots.

Send the pullet’s [poëling] liquor separately, after having reduced and finished it with butter.

[1524—POULARDE TOULOUSAINE]

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence, and surround it with the following garnish, arranged in heaps:—Quenelles of [mousseline] chicken forcemeat; slices of poached, veal sweetbreads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; cooked and very white button-mushroom heads, and slices of truffle.

Serve an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence, separately.

[1525—POULARDE TRIANON]

Poach the pullet.

Dish it, and surround it with quenelles of chicken forcemeat, stuffed with foie-gras purée. Arrange these quenelles in heaps, and set a nice, whole truffle between each heap.

Pierce the pullet with a [hatelet], garnished with one grooved mushroom, one fair-sized glazed truffle, and a quenelle decorated with salted tongue.

Serve a suprême sauce at the same time.

[495]
][1526—POULARDE VALENCIENNE]

[Poële] the pullet.

Dish it, and surround it with a garnish of rizotto, combined with ham dice. Set a crown of grilled slices of ham upon the rizotto.

Serve a well-seasoned [tomatéd] suprême sauce separately.

[1527—POULARDE AU VERT-PRÉ[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with a suprême sauce, finished with printanier butter (No. [157]), in the proportion of two oz. per pint of sauce; and surround it with a garnish consisting of peas, French beans, and asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

[1528—POULARDE VICHY]

Stuff the pullet with ordinary pilaff rice, and braise it white. Dish it, coat it with a suprême sauce, combined with the reduced braising-liquor, and surround with small tartlet crusts, garnished with carrots à la Vichy.

[1529—POULARDE VICTORIA]

Stuff the pullet with truffles and foie gras, and three-parts [poële] it, exactly as directed under “Poularde Souvaroff.”

Put it into a cocotte with one lb. of potatoes, cut into large dice and tossed in butter, and complete its cooking and that of the potatoes in the oven.

[1530—POULARDE WASHINGTON]

Stuff the pullet with ten oz. of green maize, three-parts cooked, and combined with one chopped onion cooked in butter and three oz. of good sausage-meat, fried in butter for one moment with the onion. Braise the pullet, and glaze it at the last minute.

Serve separately and at the same time a timbale of maize with cream.

[1531—CHAPON FIN AUX PERLES DU PÉRIGORD]

Stuff the capon with fine truffles, and envelop it in very thin slices of cushion of veal. Braise it with best liqueur-brandy.

Dish and serve separately (1) the braising liquor in a sauceboat; (2) a timbale of cardoons with gravy.

[1532—POULETS SAUTÉS[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

As I pointed out at the beginning of Part V. of this chapter, the chickens best suited to the [sauté] treatment are those termed [496] ]“à la Reine”; they should be of medium size, very fleshy, and tender.

In an extreme case, small pullets or large chickens might be used, but neither of these are so eminently suited to the procedure in question as chickens “à la Reine.”

The fowl which is to be [sautéd] should be cut up thus: after having emptied, singed, and thoroughly cleaned it; cut off its legs—quite a simple matter, since all that is necessary is the disjunction of the thigh-bones, after having cut the skin. Cut off the claws just below the joint of the tibia, and pare the spurs. Now cut the tibia above the joint, and remove the thigh-bone.

Cut the pinions at the first joint; remove the wings, after having cut round a portion of the breast in such wise that each wing holds one half of it; finally detach the centrepiece or breast-bone, which should be left whole if the fowl be small and cut into two if it be otherwise.

The carcass thus remains. Cut it into two, and trim each piece on both sides.

Before setting them to cook, moderately season the pieces of fowl with salt and pepper. Whatever the demands of a particular recipe may be, the preparatory principle of [sautéd] chickens is always as follows:—

Take a sautépan just large enough to hold the pieces of fowl, and heat therein two oz. of clarified butter; or, according to circumstances, half butter and half good oil. When the selected fat is quite hot, insert the pieces of fowl; let them colour quickly, and turn them over from time to time, that they may do so evenly. Now cover the utensil, and put it in a sufficiently hot oven to ensure the complete cooking of the fowl. Some tender pieces, such as the wings and the breast, should be withdrawn after a few minutes have elapsed, and kept warm; but the legs, the meat of which is firmer and thicker, should cook seven or eight minutes more at least.

When all the pieces are cooked, withdraw them; drain away their butter, and swill the sautépan with the prescribed liquor, which is either some kind of wine, mushroom cooking-liquor, or chicken stock, &c. This swilling forms, as I have already pointed out, an essential part of the procedure, inasmuch as its object is to dissolve those portions of solidified gravy which adhere to the bottom of the sautépan.

Reduce the swilling-liquor to half, and add thereto the sauce given in the recipe. Put the pieces of carcass, the claws, the pinions and the legs into this sauce, and simmer for a few [497] ]minutes. The other pieces, i.e., the wings and breast, are then added, but when the sauce is sufficiently reduced, it must stop boiling. When the pieces are completely cooked, it is obviously unnecessary for the sauce to boil, since the former would only be hardened thereby.

A few minutes before serving, put the pieces into a deep entrée dish (fitted with a cover) in the following order:—The pieces of carcass, the claws and the pinions on the bottom of the dish, upon these the legs and the breast, and, last of all, the wings.

The sauce is then finished according to the directions of the recipe, and is poured over the pieces of fowl.

Some chickens are prepared without colouration—that is to say, the pieces are merely stiffened in butter without browning, and their cooking is completed in the oven as above. In this case the swilling-liquor is invariably white, as also the supplementary sauces, and the latter are finished with cream.

[1533—POULET SAUTÉ ARCHIDUC]

Fry the pieces of fowl without colouration, i.e., merely stiffen them. Add four oz. of onions, previously cooked in butter, and complete the cooking of the onions and the fowl together.

Withdraw the pieces; dish them; cover the dish, and keep it hot. Moisten the onions with a small glassful of liqueur brandy; reduce the latter; add thereto one-sixth pint of cream and one-sixth pint of velouté, and rub through tammy.

Reduce this sauce to a stiff consistence; finish it, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter, the juice of the quarter of a lemon, and a tablespoonful of Madeira, and pour it over the fowl.

Set about ten slices of truffle on the latter, and serve.

[1534—POULET SAUTÉ ARLÉSIENNE]

[Sauté] the chicken in oil, and withdraw the pieces.

Swill with one-quarter pint of white wine; add a piece of crushed garlic as large as a pea, one-sixth pint of [tomatéd] half-glaze sauce, and reduce by a third. Dish the chicken, and surround with alternate heaps of onion and egg-plant roundels, seasoned, dredged, and fried in oil, and [concassed] tomatoes cooked in butter.

[1535—POULET SAUTÉ[!-- TN: acute invisible --] ARMAGNAC]

Cook the pieces of chicken in butter without colouration; add thereto three and one-half oz. of raw slices of truffle, and dish in a shallow cocotte.

Swill with a small glassful of old liqueur brandy; add a few [498] ]drops of lemon juice and one-sixth pint of cream; heat; finish this sauce, away from the fire, with two oz. of crayfish butter, and pour it over the fowl.

Serve in the cocotte.

[1536—POULET SAUTÉ D’ARTOIS]

[Sauté] the chicken in butter, and dish the pieces.

Swill with three tablespoonfuls of Madeira, and add one-seventh pint of light, pale meat glaze, four small quartered artichoke-bottoms, tossed in butter, ten carrots shaped like olives, cooked in consommé and glazed, and eight small onions cooked in butter.

Finish with one and one-half oz. of butter and a pinch of chopped chives, and pour this sauce over the pieces of fowl.

[1537—POULET SAUTÉ BEAULIEU]

[Sauté] the chicken in butter, and add to it five oz. of new potatoes (the size of hazel-nuts) and the same quantity of small quartered artichoke-bottoms, cooked in butter beforehand with the potatoes.

Keep the whole in the oven, under cover, for ten minutes.

Set the pieces of fowl, the potatoes and the artichoke-bottoms in an earthenware saucepan, and add twelve black olives.

Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine and a little lemon juice; complete with a tablespoonful of veal stock, and pour into the cocotte.

Simmer for five minutes, in the utensil, and serve the preparation as it stands.

[1538—POULET SAUTÉ BORDELAISE]

[Sauté] the chicken in butter, and dish it. Surround it with small quartered artichoke-bottoms stewed in butter; sliced potatoes cooked in butter, and roundels of fried onions, arranged in small heaps, with a small tuft of fried parsley between each heap.

Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of chicken gravy, and sprinkle the fowl with the latter.

[1539—POULET SAUTÉ BOIVIN]

Fry the chicken in butter and add twelve small onions; three quartered artichokes, small and very tender; twenty-four small potatoes of the size of hazel-nuts. Cover and cook the whole together, in the oven.

Dish the chicken with the onions and potatoes over it, and surround it with the artichokes.

[499]
]Swill the saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of consommé; add three tablespoonfuls of pale glaze, a few drops of lemon juice, and one and one-half oz. of butter; and pour this sauce over the chicken.

[1540—POULET SAUTÉ BRETONNE]

Stiffen the pieces without colouring them, and add thereto three oz. of the white of a leek and the half of an onion, both sliced and stewed in butter beforehand. Cover and set in the oven.

About five minutes before the fowl is quite cooked, add three oz. of mushrooms, minced raw and tossed in butter.

Dish the pullet, add one-sixth pint of suprême sauce and as much cream to the vegetables; reduce to half, and pour the sauce and the vegetables over the chicken.

[1541—POULET SAUTÉ AUX CÈPES]

[Sauté] the chicken in oil. When it is cooked, drain away the oil, dish it; heat three chopped shallots in the sautépan; swill with one-quarter pint of white wine; reduce, and complete with one and one-half oz. of butter.

Pour this sauce over the chicken, and surround the latter with eight oz. of [cèpes], [sautéd] à la Bordelaise.

Sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over the chicken.

[1542—POULET SAUTÉ CHAMPEAUX]

[Sauté] the chicken in butter; dish it, and surround it with small onions and potatoes (the size of hazel-nuts), both cooked in butter beforehand. Swill with a little white wine; add one-sixth pint of veal gravy and one tablespoonful of meat glaze; reduce; finish with one and one-half oz. of butter; and pour this sauce over the chicken.

[1543—POULET SAUTÉ CHASSEUR]

[Sauté] the chicken in equal quantities of butter and oil, and dish it. Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine, and reduce; add one-quarter, pint of Chasseur Sauce Escoffier; heat; pour over the chicken, and sprinkle the latter with a pinch of [concassed] parsley.

[1544—POULET SAUTÉ CYNTHIA]

[Sauté] the chicken in butter and dish it.

Swill the saucepan with a glass of dry champagne; reduce to half; add one tablespoonful of light poultry glaze; finish with two and one-half oz. of butter, the juice of half a lemon, and one tablespoonful of dry curaçao; pour this sauce over the chicken.

[500]
]Surround the latter with three oz. of grapes, cleared of all skin and pips, and ten sections of an orange, peeled in suchwise that the pulp of the fruit is raw.

[1545—POULET SAUTÉ DEMIDOFF]

Colour the chicken in butter; add the vegetable garnish given for “Poularde à la Demidoff” (1464), and put the two to stew in the oven. About ten minutes before the cooking is completed, add two oz. of truffles, cut to the shape of crescents like the carrots and turnips, and three tablespoonfuls of good veal stock.

Dish the pieces of chicken, and cover them with the garnish.

[1546—POULET SAUTÉ A LA DORIA]

Colour the pieces of chicken in oil and butter; add thereto one-half lb. of cucumber cut to the shape of garlic cloves; and complete the cooking by stewing in the oven.

Dish the chicken with the cucumber upon it. Swill the saucepan with one tablespoonful of veal gravy and a few drops of lemon juice; and sprinkle the chicken and its garnish with this swilling-liquor, to which add one and one-half oz. of brown butter.

[1547—POULET SAUTÉ A LA DURAND]

Dredge the seasoned pieces of chicken, and toss them in oil.

Dish them in the form of a crown; garnish their midst with a fine heap of roundels of fried onion; and, in the centre of the latter, set a cone, made from a very thin slice of ham and filled with [concassed] tomatoes cooked in butter.

[1548—POULET SAUTÉ A L’ÉGYPTIENNE]

Colour the pieces of chicken in oil. Toss in oil, together, three oz. of onion, and two oz. of mushrooms, sliced; and six oz. of raw ham, cut into dice.

Set the pieces of chicken in a cocotte, alternating them with the garnish, which should have been well-drained; cover with two tomatoes, cut into thick slices; cover the cocotte, and complete the cooking in the oven for twenty minutes.

When about to serve, sprinkle with a tablespoonful of veal stock.

[1549—POULET SAUTÉ A L’ESPAGNOLE]

[Sauté] the chicken in oil. Drain the latter away, and add one-half lb. of pilaff rice, combined with one and one-half oz. of capsicums in dice; three oz. of large green peas, cooked [à l’anglaise], and two sliced and poached sausages.

[501]
]Cover the sautépan, and set the whole to stew in the oven for ten minutes.

Dish the chicken; cover it with the garnish, and surround it with six small grilled tomatoes.

[1550—POULET SAUTÉ A L’ESTRAGON]

Toss the chicken in butter, and dish it.

Swill the sautépan with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce to half; add one-sixth pint of gravy in which tarragon has been infused, and thicken with arrowroot.

Pour this sauce over the chicken, and decorate its wings with sprays of parboiled tarragon leaves.

[1551—POULET SAUTÉ FEDORA]

[Sauté] the chicken in butter, without colouration, with four oz. of raw, sliced truffles; and dish.

Swill with one-sixth pint of cream; add three tablespoonfuls of Béchamel sauce, and reduce to half. Finish, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of crayfish butter, a few drops of lemon juice, and a little cayenne; add four oz. of parboiled asparagus-heads to this sauce, and pour it over the chicken. Or, after having cohered them with butter, the asparagus-heads may be arranged in heaps round the fowl.

[1552—POULET SAUTÉ AU FENOUIL]

[Sauté] the chicken in butter, without colouration; swill with cream; add three quartered tuberose fennels, trimmed to the shape of garlic cloves and parboiled, and complete the cooking of the fennels and the chicken, together.

Set the pieces of fennel in the form of a crown on a special earthenware dish, and put the chicken in their midst, placing the pieces side by side. Coat with Mornay sauce, flavoured with chicken essence, and set to glaze.

[1553—POULET SAUTÉ A LA FERMIÈRE]

Slice three oz. of the red part of a carrot, the same quantity of turnip, two oz. of celery, and half an onion. Season with a little salt and sugar, and half-stew in butter.

Brown the pieces of chicken in butter; put them in the cocotte with the garnish of vegetables; add thereto two and one-half oz. of ham cut into dice, and complete the cooking of both the chicken and the vegetables, in the oven.

When about to serve, sprinkle with four or five tablespoonfuls of veal stock.

[502]
][1554—POULET SAUTÉ AUX FINES HERBES]

[Sauté] the chicken in butter, and two minutes before dishing it, sprinkle it with one-half oz. of chopped shallots. Swill the sautépan with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce; add three tablespoonfuls of strong, veal gravy and as much half-glaze sauce; and finish the sauce, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter and a coffeespoonful of chopped parsley, chervil, and tarragon. Pour it over the chicken.

[1555—POULET SAUTÉ FORESTIÈRE]

[Sauté] the chicken in butter; sprinkle it with a tablespoonful of chopped shallots; add five oz. of quartered morels; stew in the oven for ten minutes, and dish the chicken.

Swill with white wine; add one-sixth pint of veal stock; reduce, and pour over the chicken with the morels. Surround with four small heaps of potatoes, cut into large dice and tossed in butter; put a rectangle of frizzled bacon between each heap, and sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over the chicken.

[1556—POULET SAUTÉ GABRIELLE]

[Sauté] the chicken in butter, without colouration, and dish it.

Swill with one-eighth pint of mushroom cooking-liquor; add three tablespoonfuls of Béchamel sauce, and three tablespoonfuls of cream; reduce, and finish the sauce, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter.

Pour this sauce over the chicken; sprinkle on it some very black truffle, cut [julienne-fashion], and surround it with little leaves of puff-paste, baked white.

[1557—POULET SAUTÉ GEORGINA]

[Sauté] the pullet in butter with twelve small new onions and a small faggot, containing a sprig of fennel. Dish the chicken.

Swill with three tablespoonfuls of mushroom cooking-liquor and as much Rhine wine; add one-fifth pint of cream; twelve mushroom-heads, sliced; and reduce the cream to half.

Complete with a pinch of chopped chervil and tarragon, and pour over the chicken.

[1558—POULET SAUTÉ HONGROISE]

Prepare a sufficient quantity of pilaff rice, combined with [concassed] tomatoes, to make a border.

[Sauté] the chicken in butter, without colouration, with a chopped half-onion and a little paprika. When the onion is slightly coloured, add three peeled and quartered tomatoes, and [503] ]complete the cooking of the whole. Mould the rice to form a border, and set the chicken in the middle.

Add one-sixth pint of cream to the tomatoes; reduce to half; rub through tammy; heat this sauce, and pour it over the chicken.

[1559—POULET SAUTÉ A L’INDIENNE OU CURRIE DE POULET]

Cut the chicken into small pieces, and fry them in oil with a sliced onion and a large pinch of curry. Swill with one-sixth pint of cocoanut milk or, failing this, almond milk; add one-third pint of velouté, and complete the cooking of the chicken while reducing the sauce to half. Set in a deep dish, and serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne separately.

[1560—POULET SAUTÉ JAPONAISE]

Fry the chicken in butter; add one lb. of cleaned and parboiled stachys and complete the cooking of the whole, chicken and stachys, in the oven.

Dish the chicken with the stachys upon it. Swill with one-sixth pint of slightly thickened veal stock; complete, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour this over the chicken.

[1561—POULET SAUTÉ JURASSIENNE]

[Sauté] the chicken in butter and, when it is ready, add to it one-half lb. of [blanched] breast of fresh pork, cut into strips and well fried in butter. Drain away three-quarters of the chicken’s grease; swill with one-sixth pint of light half-glaze sauce, and dish the chicken.

Complete the sauce with a pinch of chopped chives, and pour it over the chicken with the strips of bacon.

[1562—POULET SAUTÉ LATHUILE]

Heat three oz. of butter in a sautépan, just large enough to hold the chicken and its garnish. Set the pieces of chicken in this butter, together with one-half lb. of potatoes and five oz. of raw artichoke-bottoms, both cut into fair-sized dice.

When the chicken and the vegetables are coloured underneath, turn the whole over at one stroke and complete the cooking on the other side; sprinkle the chicken with three tablespoonfuls of meat glaze and a pinch of chopped parsley containing a mite of crushed garlic, and set the chicken and the garnish on a dish, after the manner of “Pommes Anna.”

Pour two and one-half oz. of nut-brown butter over the whole, and surround with roundels of seasoned onions, dredged [504] ]and fried in oil, and very green, fried parsley, arranged in alternate heaps.

[1563—POULET SAUTÉ LYONNAISE]

[Sauté]

the chicken in butter and, when it is half-cooked, add three fair-sized onions, finely sliced, tossed in butter and slightly coloured.

Complete the cooking of the chicken and the onions together, and dish the former. Swill with one-sixth pint of veal gravy; reduce; pour this liquor and the onions over the chicken, and sprinkle the whole with a pinch of chopped parsley.

[1564—POULET SAUTÉ MARENGO]

[Sauté] the chicken in oil. Swill the sautépan with white wine; add two peeled and [concassed] tomatoes, or one and one-half tablespoonfuls of tomato purée, a mite of crushed garlic, ten small mushrooms, and ten slices of truffle.

Dish the chicken; cover it with sauce and garnish; surround it with heart-shaped [croûtons], fried in butter; small, fried eggs, and trussed crayfish cooked in court-bouillon, and sprinkle the whole with a pinch of [concassed] parsley.

[1565—POULET SAUTÉ MARYLAND]

Season the pieces of chicken; dip them in butter; roll them in bread-crumbs, and cook them in clarified butter. Dish, placing a slice of grilled bacon between each piece of chicken; surround with small, fried [galettes] of maize flour, and fried slices of banana.

Serve a horse-radish sauce with cream, separately.

[1566—POULET SAUTÉ MARSEILLAISE]

[Sauté] the chicken in oil, and, when it is half-cooked, add thereto two crushed cloves of garlic; three oz. of [ciseled], green capsicums, and the same weight of quartered tomatoes—all three tossed in oil.

When the chicken is cooked, drain away the oil; swill the pan with one-sixth pint of white wine and a few drops of lemon juice, and reduce almost entirely.

Dish the chicken; cover it with the garnish, and sprinkle with a pinch of [concassed] parsley.

[1567—POULET SAUTÉ MEXICAINE]

[Sauté] the chicken in oil; swill the sautépan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine; reduce, and add one-sixth pint of [tomatéd] veal gravy.

[505]
]Dish the chicken; pour the sauce over it, and surround it with grilled capsicums and mushrooms, garnished with [concassed] tomatoes cooked in butter.

[1568—POULET SAUTÉ MIREILLE]

[Sauté] the chicken in oil and add to it, when half-cooked, one chopped onion, four [concassed] tomatoes, and one pimento cut into dice. Ten minutes before serving, flavour with a small piece of crushed garlic.

Dish the chicken; pour the juice of the tomatoes into the sautépan; reduce to half, and strain over the chicken.

Serve a timbale of rice, flavoured with saffron, separately.

[1569—POULET SAUTÉ AUX MORILLES]

Colour the chicken in butter and three-parts cook it; add to it two-thirds lb. of morels, stewed in butter, and complete the cooking of the chicken, under cover, in the oven.

Dish the chicken with the morels upon it; swill the sautépan with a tablespoonful of brandy; add thereto the juice of the morels, two tablespoonfuls of meat glaze, and one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour this sauce over the chicken.

[1570—POULET SAUTÉ NORMANDE]

Half-[sauté] the chicken in butter, and set the pieces in a cocotte with one lb. of peeled and sliced russet apples. Swill with a small glassful of liqueur cider; put this liquor in the cocotte; cover, and set in the oven, that the chicken may be completely cooked and the apples as well.

Serve the preparation, as it stands, in the cocotte.

[1571—POULET SAUTÉ PARMENTIER]

Brown the chicken in butter, and add one lb. of potatoes, raised by means of an oval spoon-cutter, or cut into large dice, and already slightly frizzled in butter.

Complete the cooking in the oven, and dish the chicken with the potatoes arranged in heaps all round. Swill with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine; add to it a tablespoonful of veal gravy; pour this over the chicken, and sprinkle the latter with a pinch of chopped parsley.

[1572—POULET SAUTÉ PIÉMONTAISE[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

[Sauté] the chicken in butter and dish it.

Swill with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine; add thereto a tablespoonful of melted pale meat glaze, and pour this over the chicken. Sprinkle it at the last moment with two oz. of [506] ]nut-brown butter, and finally with chopped parsley, and serve a timbale of rizotto with white truffles separately.

[1573—POULET SAUTÉ PORTUGAISE]

[Sauté] the chicken in butter and oil, and dish it. Drain away a portion of the butter used in the cooking, add to the remainder a mite of crushed garlic and a chopped half-onion; and, when the latter is fried, add four oz. of peeled and [concassed] tomatoes, two oz. of sliced mushrooms, a few drops of white wine, and a pinch of [concassed] parsley.

Complete the cooking of the whole, taking care to reduce all moisture.

Cover the chicken with its garnish, and surround it with half-tomatoes or tomatoes stuffed with rice.

[1574—POULET SAUTÉ PROVENÇALE]

[Sauté] the chicken in oil and dish it. Swill with white wine and add thereto a mite of crushed garlic, three oz. of [concassed] tomatoes, four anchovy fillets cut into dice, twelve black olives stoned and parboiled, and a pinch of chopped sweet basil.

Leave the whole to simmer for five minutes, and cover the chicken with it.

[1575—POULET SAUTÉ STANLEY]

Colour the chicken in butter, and complete its cooking under cover with one-half lb. of minced onions. Dish it in a flat, earthenware cocotte, setting a heap of mushrooms on either side of it; add one-third pint of cream to the onions; simmer for ten minutes; rub through tammy, and reduce.

Finish this sauce with one oz. of butter, a little curry, and pour it over the chicken.

Set ten slices of truffle on the latter.

[1576—POULET SAUTÉ AUX TRUFFES]

Half-[sauté] the chicken in butter; add six oz. of raw truffles, cut into slices, and complete the cooking under cover. Dish; swill with a few tablespoonfuls of Madeira; reduce; add three tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce; finish with one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour this sauce over the chicken.

[1577—POULET SAUTÉ VAN DYCK]

Cook the chicken in butter without letting it brown; swill with one-sixth pint of cream; add one-sixth pint of suprême sauce, and reduce by a third.

Mix one-half lb. of young parboiled hop-sprouts to the [507] ]sauce; simmer for two minutes, and pour over the chicken, which should be dished in a cocotte.

[1578—POULET SAUTÉ VICHY]

Colour the chicken in butter; add one-half lb. of half-cooked carrots à

la Vichy (No. [2061]) to it, and complete the cooking of the chicken and the carrots under cover in the oven.

Swill with a few tablespoonfuls of veal stock; dish the pullet, and cover it with the garnish of carrots.

[1579—POULET SAUTÉ VERDI]

Prepare a border of rizotto à la Piémontaise.

[Sauté] the chicken in butter; set it in the centre of the border, and on the latter arrange a crown of slices of foie gras, tossed in butter, alternated with slices of truffle, resting against the chicken.

Swill with Asti wine; reduce; add three tablespoonfuls of veal stock and one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour this sauce over the pieces of chicken.

[1580—FILETS[!-- TN: period removed --] [1581—SUPRÊMES[!-- TN: period removed --] [1582—CÔTELETTES] [1583—AILERONS OF CHICKEN]

1581—SUPRÊMES

1582—CÔTELETTES

1583—AILERONS OF CHICKEN

The terms “Fillet” and “Suprême” are synonymous, and either one or the other may be used for variety to express the same thing on a menu. They are names given to the breast of the fowl, divided into two along the sternum, and cleared of all skin. Each fillet or suprême comprises the large and the minion fillets.

When [suprêmes] are taken from a small chicken, the minion fillets are not removed; if the chicken be an ordinary one or a pullet, the minion fillets are removed, cleared of all tendons, and twisted into rings or crescents, after having been [contised] with slices of truffle that are half-inserted into the little incisions, made at regular intervals in the meat with the point of a knife.

Prepared in this way, these fillets are generally included in the garnish of the [suprêmes]. Chicken ailerons and cutlets (the latter must not be mistaken for those prepared from cooked meat and which are only a kind of croquette) are [suprêmes] to which the humerus-bone of the wing is left adhering.

Cutlets are always cut from such fowls as chickens à la Reine, or very fleshy, spring chickens. The same rule applies to [suprêmes]: though, sometimes, the latter are cut from pullets. But, in that case, as they would be too large, they are cut into three or four very regular pieces, which are slightly flattened, and trimmed to the shape of hearts or ovals; except when they have to be stuffed.

[508]
]In the latter case, they are opened in the thickness, by means of the point of a small knife, to form sacks; and, in the resulting interstice the selected stuffing is inserted, with the help of a piping-bag fitted with a little, even pipe, and in a sufficient quantity to fill out the [suprêmes] well.

[Suprêmes] and cutlets are always cooked without liquor, or almost so; for should any moistening liquid even approach the boil, it would immediately harden them. If they be desired poached, it would be best to cook the whole fowl, and cut them from the latter when it is cooked.

This is how they are prepared, according as to whether they be required colourless or [sautéd]; though the brown method of preparing them is applied more particularly to cutlets.

Cutlets or [suprêmes] [sautéd]: Season them with salt; roll them in flour; set them in a vegetable pan containing some very hot clarified butter, and quickly [gild] them on both sides. These pieces of fowl are so tender that they are cooked and [gilded] at the same moment of time.

Cutlets or [suprêmes] prepared without colouration: Season them, and set them in a vegetable-pan, containing some fresh, melted, unclarified butter. Roll the [suprêmes] in this butter; add a few drops of lemon juice; thoroughly seal the vegetable-pan, and put it in a very hot oven.

A few minutes suffice for the poaching of the [suprêmes], which are known to be ready when they seem resilient to the touch, and are perfectly white.

Important Remarks: Chicken [Suprêmes] or cutlets should never be allowed to wait, lest they harden. They should be cooked quickly, at the last moment; dished and served immediately. The shortest wait is enough to spoil them, and to make an insipid and dry preparation of what should be an exquisite dish.

N.B.—The recipes given hereafter for [suprêmes] may of course be applied to fillets, cutlets, ailerons, blanc de poulet, &c.

[1584—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AGNÈS[!-- TN: grave invisible --] SOREL]

Line some oval buttered tartlet-moulds with [mousseline] forcemeat. Upon the latter, put some raw, sliced mushrooms, tossed in butter; cover with forcemeat so as to fill the mould, and poach in the [bain-marie].

Turn out in a circle on a round dish; put a poached [suprême] on each tartlet; coat with Allemande sauce; deck with a truffle girt by a ring of very red tongue, and surround the [suprême] with a thread of pale, meat glaze.

[509]
][1585—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ALEXANDRA]

Poach the [suprêmes] dry. Dish them with a few slices of truffle set upon them; coat them with Mornay sauce, flavoured with chicken essence, and glaze quickly. Surround with small heaps of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

[1586—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AMBASSADRICE]

Poach the [suprêmes] dry. Dish them; coat them with suprême sauce, and surround them with lamb sweetbreads, studded with truffles and cooked without colouration, alternated with faggots of asparagus-heads.

[1587—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ARLÉSIENNE]

Season and dredge the [suprêmes], and toss them in clarified butter.

Meanwhile, fry in oil some egg-plant roundels and some seasoned and dredged roundels of onion. Also prepare a garnish of tomatoes tossed in oil. Dish the egg-plant roundels in a circle on a round dish; set the [suprêmes] thereon, and garnish the latter with the tossed tomatoes and the fried onions, set in small heaps upon them.

Serve a delicate, [tomatéd] half-glaze sauce separately.

[1588—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE BOISTELLE]

Cut the [suprêmes] into heart shapes, and stuff them with [mousseline] forcemeat combined with half its bulk of mashed raw mushrooms.

Put the [suprêmes] in a buttered vegetable-pan, with two-thirds lb. of peeled, minced, raw mushrooms; season with salt, white pepper and lemon juice, and set to poach slowly in a moderate oven.

Dish in the form of a crown, in a timbale, with the mushrooms in the centre.

Add to the liquor, which should only consist of the moisture of the mushrooms, two and one-half oz. of butter and a few drops of lemon juice; pour this sauce over the [suprêmes], and complete with a pinch of chopped parsley.

[1589—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AUX CHAMPIGNONS, A BLANC]

Poach the [suprêmes] in a little mushroom cooking-liquor.

Dish them in the form of a crown, with some fine very white cooked mushroom-heads. Coat them moderately with Allemande sauce, combined with the cooking-liquor of the [suprêmes].

Serve what remains of the sauce separately.

[510]
][1590—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AUX CHAMPIGNONS, A BRUN]

Cook the [suprêmes] in clarified butter, as already described.

Dish them; surround them with mushrooms, minced raw and tossed in butter, and coat them with a light mushroom sauce.

[1591—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE CHIMAY]

Cook the [suprêmes] in clarified butter.

Dish them; garnish them with tossed morels and asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and surround with a thread of good thickened gravy.

[1592—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE CUSSY]

Collop the [suprêmes]; slightly flatten each collop; trim them round, dredge them, and toss them in butter.

Set each collop of [suprême] upon an artichoke-bottom about equal in size to the former; put a thick slice of glazed truffle on each collop, and a very white cock’s kidney upon each slice of truffle.

Serve a thickened gravy separately.

[1593—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE DORIA]

Season and dredge the [suprêmes], and toss them quickly in clarified butter. Dish them and surround them with pieces of cucumber, shaped like garlic cloves and cooked in butter.

When about to serve, sprinkle them with a little nut-brown butter, and a few drops of lemon juice.

[1594—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE DREUX]

Make some incisions, at short intervals, in the [suprêmes], and half-insert into these, alternate roundels of truffle and salted tongue. Poach them dry. Dish; surround with a garnish of cocks’ combs and kidneys, and slices of truffle, and pour a moderate quantity of Allemande sauce over this garnish.

[1595—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE] [ÉCARLATE]

Incise the [suprêmes] as above; but garnish them only with roundels of tongue. Poach them dry, and set them on oval, flat quenelles of [mousseline] forcemeat, sprinkled with very red chopped tongue.

Coat with clear suprême sauce, that the red of the tongue may be seen.

[1596—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ÉCOSSAISE]

Poach the [suprêmes].

Dish them; coat them with Écossaise sauce, and surround them with small heaps of French beans, cohered with butter.

[511]
][1597—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE FAVORITE]

[Sauté] the [suprêmes] in clarified butter.

Dish them in a crown, on tossed slices of foie gras, with three slices of truffle on each [suprême].

In their midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and serve, separately, a sauceboat of light meat-glaze, buttered.

[1598—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE FINANCIÈRE]

[Sauté] the [suprêmes] in clarified butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown, upon fried [croûtons] of the same size; in their midst arrange a garnish à la financière (No. [1474]), and coat the [suprêmes] and their garnish with financière sauce.

[1599—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AUX FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS]

[Sauté] the [suprêmes] in clarified butter.

Dish them with a garnish of raw artichoke-bottoms, sliced, tossed in butter, and sprinkled with fine herbs. Sprinkle a few drops of nut-brown butter over the [suprêmes], and serve a thickened gravy separately.

[1600—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE GEORGETTE]

Prepare as many “pommes Georgette” as there are [suprêmes], and take care to choose potatoes of the same size as the [suprêmes].

Poach the [suprêmes]. Set one on each potato, with a fine slice of truffle in the middle, and arrange in the form of a crown on a round dish.

[1601—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE HENRI IV.]

Collop the [suprêmes]; slightly flatten the collops, and trim them round. Season and dredge them; [sauté] them in clarified butter, and set each collop on an artichoke bottom, slightly garnished with buttered meat-glaze.

Serve a Béarnaise sauce separately.

[1602—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE HONGROISE]

Prepare some pilaff rice, combined with [concassed] tomatoes, and dish it in a shallow timbale.

Season the [suprêmes] with paprika

; toss them in clarified butter, and set them in a timbale, upon the pilaff rice.

Swill the vegetable-pan with a few tablespoonfuls of cream; add the necessary quantity of Hongroise sauce, and coat the [suprêmes] with this sauce.

[512]
][1603—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A L’INDIENNE]

[Sauté] the [suprêmes] in butter, and put them for a few minutes in a curry sauce à l’Indienne, but without letting the latter boil.

Dish the [suprêmes] in a timbale with the curry sauce.

Serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne, separately.

[1604—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE JARDINIÈRE]

[Sauté] the [suprêmes] in butter. Dish and surround with small heaps of vegetables, arranged very neatly, as explained in the case of the Jardinière garnish.

Sprinkle the [suprêmes] with a few drops of nut-brown butter, just before serving.

[1605—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE JUDIC]

Cut the [suprêmes] into heart shapes; season them, and poach them dry.

Dish them in a crown, upon little braised lettuces; and set a slice of truffle and a cock’s kidney upon each heart of [suprême]. Coat slightly with thickened gravy.

[1606—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE MARÉCHALE[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

It is the rule that all preparations termed “à la Maréchale” should be treated with chopped truffle; that is to say that the latter takes the place of the customary bread-crumbs.

For the sake of economy the à l’anglaise treatment (i.e., egg and bread-crumbs) is more commonly applied; so the reader may choose which of the two he prefers. In any case, [sauté] the [suprêmes] in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, with a fine slice of truffle on each, and set in their midst a garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

N.B.—Formerly, these [suprêmes], like all preparations “à la Maréchale,” were gently grilled upon buttered paper.

[1607—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE MARYLAND]

Proceed exactly as directed under “Poulet [sauté] à la Maryland” (No. [1565]).

[1608—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE MONTPENSIER]

Roll the [suprêmes] in beaten egg and bread-crumbs, and [sauté] them in clarified butter. Dish them in a crown with a slice of truffle upon each, and surround with small heaps of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

Sprinkle the [suprêmes] with a few drops of nut-brown butter.

[513]
][1609—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ORLY]

Take some [suprêmes] of chicken à la Reine, and set them on a dish with parsley stalks and finely sliced onions; sprinkle with a little oil and lemon juice, and set to [marinade] for an hour.

When about to prepare them, dry them by means of a piece of linen; dip them into light batter, and put them in a very hot frying fat that they may cook quickly.

Drain; dish on a napkin with bunches or a border of very green fried parsley, and serve a tomato sauce separately.

[1610—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A L’ORIENTALE]

[Sauté] the [suprêmes] in butter, and dish them each upon a thick slice of chow-chow, cut to the same shape, parboiled, and stewed in butter beforehand. Coat with Suprême sauce, combined with a quarter of its bulk of tomato purée, and flavoured moderately with saffron.

[1611—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE EN PAPILLOTE]

Cut out as many heart-shaped pieces of kitchen paper as there are [suprêmes], and either butter or oil them.

Quickly stiffen the [suprêmes] in butter. In the centre of each paper heart, set a slice of ham cut to the shape of a triangle; cover the ham with a tablespoonful of reduced Italienne sauce; set the [suprêmes] on the sauce, and cover it with the same sauce and another triangle of ham. Close the pieces of paper, and pleat their edges in such wise as to entirely enclose their contents; set the [papillotes], thus prepared, on a tray; and put them in a sufficiently hot oven to allow of completing the cooking of the [suprêmes] and blowing out the [papillotes].

[1612—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AU PARMESAN]

Season the [suprêmes]; dip them in beaten egg and roll them in grated Parmesan. [Sauté] them in butter, and dish them on [croûtons] of polenta (No. [2294]), shaped somewhat like the [suprêmes] and browned in clarified butter. When about to serve, sprinkle the [suprêmes] with nut-brown butter.

[1613—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A LA POLIGNAC]

Poach the [suprêmes] dry, and dish them.

Coat them with Suprême sauce, combined with a [julienne] of truffles and mushrooms.

[1614—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A LA POJARSKI]

Mince the [suprêmes], and, in so doing, combine with them, first, the quarter of their weight of bread-crumbs dipped in milk [514] ]and well squeezed, and the same weight of fresh butter; and then an equal quantity of fresh cream, which should be added little by little. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

Divide up this preparation into portions equal in size to the [suprêmes], and shape them exactly like the latter; in short, reconstruct the [suprêmes] exactly with this mince-meat.

Dredge; cook in clarified butter, and serve as soon as ready.

There is no hard and fast rule for the garnishing of these [suprêmes]; the garnish is therefore optional.

[1615—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE RÉGENCE]

Cut the [suprêmes] into heart shapes; flatten them slightly, and poach them. Set each [suprême] on a quenelle of chicken forcemeat, prepared with crayfish butter, and dish in the form of a crown. Coat with Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, and, on each [suprême], set an olive-shaped truffle and a cock’s kidney—the two separated by a cock’s comb.

[1616—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE RICHELIEU]

Treat the [suprêmes] [à l’anglaise], and cook them in clarified butter.

Dish them; coat them with half-melted butter à la Maître d’hôtel, and set four fine slices of truffle on each [suprême].

[1617—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ROSSINI]

[Sauté] the [suprêmes] in butter, and dish them on collops of foie gras, arranged in the form of a crown and also tossed in butter. Coat with a strong Madeira sauce, combined with slices of truffle.

[1618—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE TALLEYRAND]

Prepare:—(1) a [croustade] of lining paste, of a size in proportion to the garnish to be put inside it, just as the garnish should be in proportion to the number of [suprêmes]:—(2) a garnish of macaroni with cream, combined with three oz. of foie gras and three oz. of truffles in dice, per one-half lb. of macaroni.

Cut the [suprêmes] to the shape of hearts; stuff them with godiveau with cream (No. [198]), mixed with half its bulk of a purée of foie gras, and poach them dry.

Put the macaroni in the [croustade], shaping it like a dome in so doing; coat the [suprêmes] with Allemande sauce, and set them in a crown on the timbale and round the dome of macaroni.

Send a sauceboat of velouté to the table separately.

[515]
][1619—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE VALENÇAY]

Stuff the [suprêmes] with truffles, cut into small dice and cohered with very reduced Allemande sauce. Treat them [à l’anglaise] and cook them in butter.

Prepare some fried [croûtons], shaped like cocks’ combs, in the proportion of two for each [suprême]; cover these with a dome of fine truffled forcemeat, and put them in a moderate oven that the forcemeat may poach.

Dish the [suprêmes] in the form of a crown; surround them with the [croûtons]; and, in their midst, pour a purée of mushrooms.

[1620—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A LA VALOIS]

Treat the [suprêmes] [à l’anglaise], and cook them in clarified butter.

Dish them with a garnish of small, stoned olives, stuffed and poached at the last moment.

Serve a Valois sauce separately.

[1621—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE VERNEUIL]

[Marinade] the [suprêmes] as for No. [1609]; treat them [à l’anglaise], and cook them in clarified butter. Dish them in the form of a crown, and coat them with Colbert sauce.

Serve separately a purée of artichokes, combined with finely-minced truffles.

[1622—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE VILLEROY]

Poach the [suprêmes] without completely cooking them.

Dip them in a Villeroy sauce, in such wise that they may be well coated with it. Leave them to cool; treat them [à l’anglaise]; and, a few minutes before serving, put them in some very hot frying fat. Dish them in the form of a crown, and serve a Périgueux sauce separately.

[1623—BLANC DE POULET ÉLISABETH]

Raise the [suprêmes] of two small chickens; poach them in butter and lemon juice, and coat them with Suprême sauce.

Dish them around a low, very cold cushion of bread, placed on the dish at the last moment. Upon the cushion, quickly set a dozen shelled oysters, which should have been kept in ice for at least two hours before dishing.

Serve very quickly in order that the [suprêmes] may be very hot and the oysters very cold. Send a Suprême sauce separately.

[516]
][1624—TURBAN DE FILETS DE POULET]

Take the required number of fillets, which is determined by the size of the mould to be used. Flatten these fillets out somewhat thinly, and trim them neatly on both sides.

With these fillets, line a buttered [savarin-mould]; setting a row of thin slices of truffle between each of the fillets, and allowing the latter to hang over the edge of the mould. Over the fillets spread a layer of [mousseline] forcemeat, two-thirds in. thick.

Three-parts fill the remaining space with a large tongue, truffles and mushrooms [salpicon], cohered by means of a reduced Allemande sauce.

Cover this [salpicon] with forcemeat, so as to fill the mould, and then draw the overlapping ends of the fillets across the forcemeat.

Set to poach in the [bain-marie] for about forty minutes; and, upon withdrawing the mould, let it stand for five minutes, that its contents may settle. Turn out upon a round dish; pour a Toulousaine garnish (see Poularde No. [1524]) in the middle, and surround the turban with a thread of Allemande sauce.

[1625—MIGNONNETTES DE POULET]

Take the required number of small, minion fillets of pullet: trim them; make six incisions in each, and half-insert into each of these incisions alternate thin roundels of truffle and tongue.

Set these minion fillets on a buttered dish, and shape them like rings.

Trim and indent the edges of as many artichoke-bottoms as there are minion fillets, and heat them in butter. Garnish these artichoke-bottoms, dome-fashion, with a very white and somewhat stiff chicken purée. Sprinkle the minion fillets with a little mushroom cooking-liquor, and poach them in the oven for from five to six minutes.

Set the artichoke-bottoms in a circle on a round dish, and set a minion fillet upon each.

Serve a very delicate Suprême sauce, separately.

[1626—NONNETTES DE POULET AGNÈS[!-- TN: grave invisible --] SOREL]

Truss twelve ortolans for entrées, and stiffen them in butter for a moment.

Raise the fillets of twelve spring chickens; trim them; flatten them slightly and pair them off, putting the edges of one on the other, that a larger surface may be obtained.

[517]
]In the middle of these joined [suprêmes] of chicken, put an ortolan; wrap it in them, and tie them round once or twice with string, that they may keep the shape of a [paupiette].

Set these [paupiettes] in a shallow sautépan, and, five minutes before serving, sprinkle them with four oz. of boiling butter; salt moderately, and cook in a fierce oven.

After having removed the string, set each nonnette on a square, hollowed crouton of bread-crumb, fried in butter, and coated inside with foie-gras purée. Coat moderately with a light chicken glaze, finished with butter, and squeeze a drop of lemon juice on each nonnette.

[1627—URSULINES DE NANCY]

Prepare some [barquette] crusts.

Mould some chicken forcemeat into large, round, regular quenelles, and poach them in some white consommé, in time for them to be ready when the Ursulines are being dished.

A few moments before serving, garnish the [barquette] crusts with foie-gras purée, thinned with a little good half-glaze, flavoured with port or sherry wine. In the middle of each garnished [barquette], set a well-drained [mousseline] quenelle; deck each quenelle with a thin and wide slice of truffle; set a small heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, at either end of the [barquettes], that is to say, on either side of the quenelle; and slightly coat the latter with chicken glaze, finished with butter.

Serve, separately, a sauceboat containing some of the same chicken glaze with butter.

[1628—FILETS DE POULET A LA SAINT-GERMAIN]

Season the fillets, dip them in melted butter and roll them in bread-crumbs; grill them gently, each on a sheet of oiled paper, and sprinkle with clarified butter during the operation.

Dish the grilled fillets, and serve at the same time:—(1) a Béarnaise sauce; (2) a timbale containing a purée of foie gras with cream.

[1629—FILETS DE POULET MIREILLE]

Prepare a garnish as for No. [1365]; i.e., sliced, raw potatoes and artichoke-bottoms, set in a small earthenware dish and cooked as “Pommes Anna.”

[Sauté] the fillets in butter at the last moment; put them on the garnish, and sprinkle them with nut-brown butter.

[518]
]SPRING CHICKENS (POULETS DE GRAINS)

Spring chickens are usually either grilled or prepared “[en casserole]” in accordance with one or another of the many recipes applicable to them.

[1630—POULET DE GRAINS A LA BELLE-MEUNIÈRE]

Stuff the chicken with four sliced chickens’ livers and three oz. of raw, quartered mushrooms, slightly tossed in butter. Slip five or six fine slices of truffle under the skin of the breast; truss the chicken as for an entrée, and brown it in butter.

This done, put it into an oval cocotte, with two oz. of butter, four rectangles of [blanched] breast of pork, and three oz. of raw quartered mushrooms, quickly tossed in butter beforehand.

Cook in the oven, under cover, and add two tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, just before serving.

[1631—POULET DE GRAINS A LA BERGÈRE]

Fry in butter four oz. of [blanched] breast of pork, cut into dice, and one-half lb. of small, whole mushrooms. Drain, and set to brown in the same butter, the chicken stuffed with a half-onion and three oz. of mushrooms, chopped and fried in butter, and mixed with three oz. of butter and a coffeespoonful of chopped parsley.

When the chicken is well coloured or [gilded], put the bacon and the mushrooms round it; swill with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce by two-thirds; add four tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, and complete the cooking of the chicken in the oven.

Set it on a round dish; thicken the cooking-liquor with a piece of [manied] butter, the size of a hazel-nut, or a little arrow-root; pour the sauce and the garnish round the chicken, and surround it with a border of freshly-fried straw potatoes.

[1632—POULET DE GRAINS BONNE FEMME]

Fry in butter four oz. of breast of fresh or salted pork, cut into slices and [blanched]. Drain; colour the chicken in the same fat, and put it in an oval cocotte with the slices of bacon.

With the same fat, fry in a frying-pan two-thirds lb. of potatoes cut to the shape of corks and divided into roundels; put these round the chicken, and set to cook in the oven, under cover.

When about to serve, sprinkle the fowl with a few tablespoonfuls of veal gravy.

Serve the preparation in the cocotte.

[519]
][1633—POULET DE GRAINS EN CASSEROLE]

[Poële] the chicken with butter in an earthenware saucepan, and baste it often the while. When about to serve, clear of all grease, and add a tablespoonful of veal gravy.

This chicken is served plain, without any garnish.

[1634—POULET DE GRAINS EN COCOTTE]

Brown the chicken in butter, in a cocotte, and under cover.

When it is half-done, surround it with two oz. of frizzled pieces of fresh or salted pork cut in dice, twelve small onions partly cooked in butter, and twenty small potatoes, the size and shape of olives.

Complete the cooking of the whole together, and, when about to serve, sprinkle with a little veal gravy.

[1635—POULET DE GRAINS CLAMART]

Brown the chicken in butter; half-cook it, and put it in a cocotte with one-half pint of half-cooked peas à la Française (No. [2193]), the cooking-liquor of which should be very short. Complete the cooking of the whole, together, and serve the preparation as it stands, without cohering the peas.

[1636—POULET DE GRAINS GRILLÉ DIABLE]

Truss the chicken as for an entrée; split it open lengthwise along the middle of the back; flatten it with a butcher’s beater, and remove as many bones as possible. Season it; sprinkle it with melted butter, and half-cook it in the oven.

This done, coat it thoroughly with mustard strengthened by means of cayenne; sprinkle copiously with bread-crumbs; press upon the latter with the flat of a knife, that they may adhere to the mustard; sprinkle a little melted butter over the bird, and complete the latter’s cooking gently on the grill.

Set on a round dish, bordered with thin slices of lemon, and serve a Devilled Sauce Escoffier separately.

[1637—POULET DE GRAINS, GRILLÉ A L’ANGLAISE (Spatchcock)]

Split the chicken open, laterally, proceeding from the extremity of the belly to the wing-joints. Open it without separating the two halves, flatten it so as to break the joints and the bones, and remove the fragments of the latter with great care.

Fix the wings by means of a skewer; sprinkle the chicken with melted butter, season it, and half-cook it in the oven.

This done, sprinkle it with bread-crumbs and melted butter, and complete its cooking on the grill. Set it on a round dish, bordered with gherkins, and serve it as it stands.

[520]
][1638—POULET DE GRAINS AUX FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS]

Brown the chicken in butter, and put it in a cocotte with five fair-sized artichoke-bottoms, sliced while raw, and tossed in butter.

Complete its cooking gently in the oven, and, when about to serve, add a tablespoonful of veal gravy and a few drops of lemon juice.

[1639—POULET DE GRAINS A L’HOTELIERE]

Bone the chicken’s breast; stuff it with one-half lb. of good sausage-meat, and truss it as for an entrée. Brown it with butter in an earthenware saucepan, and put it in the oven.

When it is two-thirds done, add to it four oz. of quartered mushrooms, [sautéd] in butter, complete its cooking, and, when about to serve, finish it with three tablespoonfuls of veal gravy.

[1640—POULET DE GRAINS A LA KATOFF]

Split the chicken open along the back, and half-cook it in the oven as in No. [1636]. This done, complete its cooking on the grill.

Meanwhile, mould on a round, buttered dish a sort of [galette] of Duchesse potatoes (No. [2212]), one inch thick. [Gild], and colour in the oven.

Dish the grilled chicken on this [galette], and surround the latter with a thread of strong veal gravy.

[1641—POULET DE GRAINS A LA LIMOUSINE]

Stuff the chicken with one-half lb. of good sausage-meat, combined with two oz. of chopped mushrooms fried in butter. Put the chicken in a cocotte with one oz. of butter and six rectangles of [blanched] breast of bacon, and cook gently in the oven.

When about to serve, add two or three tablespoonfuls of veal gravy.

Send, separately, six fine chestnuts cooked in consommé.

[1642—POULET DE GRAINS MASCOTTE]

Brown the chicken in butter, and cook it “[en casserole]” with four oz. of potatoes the size and shape of olives and tossed in butter.

When the chicken is almost cooked, put it in a cocotte with the potatoes all round, two tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, and two oz. of sliced truffles set upon it.

Cover the cocotte; put the chicken in the front of the oven for ten minutes, and serve it as it stands.

[521]
][1643—POULET DE GRAINS AUX MORILLES]

Prepare this chicken like the one “[en casserole],” and surround it with one-half lb. of morels, tossed in butter for a moment. Complete the cooking under cover, and, when about to serve, finish with one tablespoonful of veal gravy.

[1644—POULET DE GRAINS SOUVAROFF]

Proceed exactly as explained under No. [1520], but reduce the garnish by half.

[1645—POULET DE GRAINS TARTARE]

Proceed as for No. [1636], but serve a Tartare sauce at the same time.

CHICKS (POUSSINS)

The most perfect example of this class would be the Hamburg chick, were it not for the fact that it is too often kept in confinement and fed on fish, which gives a disagreeable flavour to the young bird.

When it is bred rationally, however, this chick is a great delicacy.

[1646—POUSSINS CENDRILLON]

Open the chicks along the back, and brown them in butter.

This done, season them with salt and cayenne, and put them between two layers of pork forcemeat. Wrap them in very soft pig’s caul. Dip them in melted butter; roll them in bread-crumbs, and grill them gently for twenty or twenty-five minutes.

Dish, and serve a Périgueux sauce separately.

[1647—POUSSINS A LA PIÉMONTAISE[!-- TN: acute invisible --]

Stuff each chick with one and one-half oz. of white Piedmont truffles, pounded with an equal weight of very fresh pork fat. Now truss them as for an entrée; string them and fry them in butter over a fierce fire. At the end of ten minutes put them in a cocotte; partly surround and cover them with rizotto à la Piémontaise, and complete the cooking in the oven with lid off.

A few minutes before serving, sprinkle the rizotto with grated Parmesan; glaze; and, at the last minute, sprinkle with nut-brown butter.

[1648—POUSSINS A LA POLONAISE]

Stuff each chick with one and one-half oz. of [gratin] forcemeat, two-thirds oz. of soaked and pressed bread-crumbs, one-third oz. of butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley. Truss as for entrées; string; quickly fry the chicks in butter in a very [522] ]hot oven; put them in a cocotte, and complete their cooking in the oven.

At the last moment sprinkle them with a few drops of lemon juice and nut-brown butter, combined with one oz. of bread-crumbs per four oz. of butter.

[1649—POUSSINS A LA TARTARE]

Proceed exactly as for “Poulet à

la Tartare.”

[1650—TOURTE DE POUSSINS A LA PAYSANNE]

Prepare a round layer of short paste, ten inches in diameter. Upon this paste spread two-thirds lb. of sausage-meat, combined with five oz. of dry Duxelles, taking care to leave a margin two inches wide of bare paste all round.

Upon this coating of forcemeat set ten half-chicks, stiffened in butter; sprinkle two-thirds lb. of chopped mushrooms, [sautéd] in butter, over them; spread a second coating of sausage-meat and Duxelles over the whole; cover with a very thin slice of bacon, and close the whole with a layer of paste a little larger than the underlying one, the edges of which should have been moistened. Seal the two edges, and pleat regularly; [gild]; streak; make a slit in the top, and bake in a moderate oven for about forty minutes.

When taking the tourte out of the oven, pour into it, through the slit in its cover, a few tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce.

[1651—POUSSINS A LA VIENNOISE]

Cut the chicks each into four pieces; season them; dredge them; dip them in beaten egg, and roll them in bread-crumbs.

A few minutes before serving, put them in hot fat; drain them, and dish them in pyramid form on a folded napkin. Surround with fried parsley and sections of lemon, and serve very hot.