Beef Roasts
[1947—ROAST RIBS OF BEEF]
Clear the joint of the vertebræ and the yellow ligaments. Roast before a moderately fierce fire, and place the joint if possible in an uncovered braising-pan, the sides of which may protect the meat during the cooking process.
[1948—ROAST UPPER-FILLET]
Break the projecting bones of the vertebræ, and sever the yellow ligament at various points. For this joint the heat should be fiercer than in the previous case, the limit of time being less.
[607]
][1949—ROAST SIRLOIN]
These enormous pieces are scarcely trimmed; the excess of flank alone is suppressed; but the fillet must remain covered by a considerable thickness of fat, which protects it while roasting.
Without this precautionary measure, the under-cut would be cooked long before the upper-fillet, and would dry up.
The fire should be concentrated, regular and not too fierce for this joint. The flat bones of the vertebræ must be broken at their base, but not detached.
[1950—FILLET OF BEEF]
Fillet of beef intended for roasting should be carefully cleared of its two sinewy envelopes. But, since this trimming tends to let it dry while cooking, were the meat left as it stands, it is customary to lard it with strips of fresh fat bacon, which protect it; or it may be wrapped in slices of bacon. In certain circumstances, it is covered on top and beneath with slices of beef fat, flattened to the thickness of a rasher of bacon by means of a beater, and tied on with string.
Fillet of beef should be cooked with a somewhat fierce fire, and, in England, it is usually kept underdone towards the centre.
N.B.—Large roast joints of beef are always accompanied by Yorkshire pudding, grated Horse-radish or Horse-radish sauce (No. [119] or [138]).
[1951—RÔTIS DE VEAU (Veal Roasts)]
In my opinion, the spit does not suit veal, whatever be the quality of the latter. Poëling (No. [250]) is preferable and suits it better.
The quality of meat can but be enhanced under the treatment I suggest, more particularly as the [poëling]-liquor constitutes a much richer gravy than that which generally accompanies veal roasted on the spit. In English cookery roast veal is always accompanied by boiled ham or breast of bacon. Veal Stuffing (No. [1945]) poached in steam in a special mould, and cut into slices, is sent at the same time.
Roast joints of veal are generally the Loin, the best end, the Neck or the Fillet.
Sometimes, too, but more rarely, the Cushion is roasted.
[1952—MUTTON AND LAMB ROASTS]
Mutton and Lamb are the best possible meats to roast, and, as far as they are concerned, the culinary treatment might be limited to roasting.
[608]
]True, good results are obtained from poaching mutton and [poëling] home-lamb; but it is advisable only to have recourse to these methods when a menu requires varying.
The Mutton joints roasted are the Leg, the Double or Pair of Hind-legs, the Baron or (Hindquarters), the Saddle and the Neck.
The Shoulder also makes an excellent roast, but it may only appear on more or less unimportant menus.
Roast joints of mutton and lamb are always accompanied by Mint Sauce (No. [136]).
[1953—PORK ROASTS]
Pork roasts may only appear on very ordinary menus, and really belong to domestic cookery. The pork joints for roasting are the Legs, the Fillets, and the Neck.
The joints selected should be those derived from very young animals, and the rind should be left upon them, and cut deeply in criss-cross lines, so as to form a lozenge pattern.
Pork should always be roasted before a fierce fire, and it is accompanied by its gravy and Sage and Onions (No. [1944]) or Apple sauce (No. [112]). Sometimes Apple sauce is replaced by Cranberry sauce (No. [115]); while Roberts sauce Escoffier is also admirably suited to these roasts.
[1954—VENISON ROASTS]
I have already pointed out that Roebuck is not very much eaten in England, and that this excellent ground game must be used without having been [marinaded]. Every piece of roebuck must be trimmed and cleared of tendons, larded with larding bacon, or, at least, carefully wrapped in the latter; and roasted before a fierce fire and kept underdone towards the centre.
The joints of roebuck most commonly roasted are the Legs and the Saddle.
The fallow Deer and the Stag supply the greater part of the Venison consumed in England; and when these animals are of good quality their flesh is covered by a thick coat of white fat, which is very highly esteemed by connoisseurs. Only the neck and the haunch are roasted, and the latter consists of one leg with half of the saddle attached.
This venison is never [marinaded], but it should be kept for as long as possible in a dry and well-aired place, that the meat may be gamy.
Before hanging the joint, dredge it well with a mixture of flour and pepper, that it may keep dry and free from the flies.
[609]
]When about to prepare this Venison, scrape off the coating of flour; wrap it in an envelope of firm suet dough. Cover the whole with oiled paper, tied on with string; and place the joint before a regular, red fire, concentrated and fierce.
When the joint is thought to be cooked, peel off its envelope; season it with salt; sprinkle it with a few pinches of flour, and plenty of melted butter, and brown it as quickly as possible.
Large joints of Venison allow of the following adjuncts:—Poivrade sauce and its derivatives, such as Venison sauce and Grand-Veneur sauce; also the Cumberland and Oxford sauces of English cookery. Generally a sauceboat of red-currant jelly is sent with these joints, unless the accompanying sauce already contains some of it.