Canetons Froids
[1765—CANETON A LA CUILLER]
Braise the duckling with Madeira, and cook it well. Put into a terrine just large enough to hold it; cover with the braising-liquor, strained through a napkin, and combined with enough aspic jelly to completely coat the duckling. Leave to cool.
When about to serve, clear the surface of grease, first by means of a spoon, then with boiling water, and dish on a napkin.
[1766—CANETON GLACÉ AUX MANDARINES]
[Poële] the duckling, and let it cool in its liquor.
When it is quite cold, set it on its back; glaze it with aspic jelly, and place it on a low rice or carved-bread cushion lying on a long dish.
Surround it with emptied tangerines, filled with cold [mousse] made from ducklings’ livers and foie gras. Alternate the tangerines with small timbales of aspic, combined with the [poëling]-liquor and the juice squeezed from the sections of the tangerines.
[1767—CANETON GLACÉ AUX CERISES]
Roast the duckling, and keep it underdone.
When it is quite cold, remove the breast, and remove the bones in such wise as to form a case with the carcass. Cut each fillet into eight thin slices; coat them with a brown chaud-froid sauce, and decorate with truffles. Fill the carcass with a [mousse] made from the remains of the meat, the duckling’s liver, and some foie gras, and shape it so as to imitate the convex breast of the bird.
Glaze with aspic, and set in the refrigerator, that the [mousse] may harden. When the latter is firm, lay the chaud-froid-coated collops upon it, and set the piece in a deep, square dish. Surround with cold, stoned, morello cherries, poached in Bordeaux wine, and cover these with an aspic jelly flavoured with duckling essence.
[562]
][1768—AIGUILLETTES DE CANETONS] [A L’ÉCARLATE]
[Poële] a Rouen duckling until it is just cooked, and let it cool in its liquor. Raise the fillets; skin them, and cut them each into eight thin slices. Coat them with a brown chaud-froid sauce, and decorate with truffles. Prepare an equal number of slices of tongue the size and shape of the slices of duckling, and coat them with aspic.
With the remains and the meat of the legs, prepare a [mousse], and pour it into a square or oval silver dish; let it cool, and then set the [aiguillettes] of duckling and the slices of tongue upon it, alternating them in so doing, and cover the [mousse] with aspic.
[1769—MOUSSE ET MOUSSELINES DE CANETON ROUENNAIS]
These are prepared with the same quantities as the chicken [mousses] and [mousselines], but they allow of no other sauce than the Rouennaise or the Bigarrade, nor of any other garnishes than sections of orange, cherries, vegetable purées, or creams.
[1770—MOUSSE DE CANETON ROUENNAIS]
With the exception of the nature of the principal ingredient, the preparation, quantities, and moulding of this [mousse] are the same as for chicken [mousse]. The reader is, therefore, begged to refer to No. [1670], which may be applied perfectly well to Rouen duckling.
[1771—SOUFFLÉ FROID DE CANETON A L’ORANGE]
Proceed as for the “Caneton aux cerises,” but with this difference, that the duckling is used entirely for the [mousse].
Serve, similarly, in a square dish, and surround with sections of oranges skinned raw. Cover with an aspic jelly flavoured with the juice of Seville oranges, and combined with a liqueur-glassful of curaçao per pint of jelly.
[1772—TERRINE DE CANETON ROUENNAIS A LA GELÉE]
First prepare the following forcemeat:—Heat three oz. of fat bacon, cut into small dice, and three oz. of butter in a frying-pan. Throw six fine ducks’ livers (seasoned with salt and pepper, and sprinkled with a pinch of powdered thyme, bay-leaf, and half an onion chopped) into this fat. Toss them over a fierce fire, just long enough to heat them; leave them to cool, and rub them through a sieve.
Bone the breast of a Rouen duckling and its back as far as the region of the legs, and suppress the tail. Stuff it with the preparation given above; truss as for an entrée, and put [563] ]it in a terrine just large enough to hold it. Sprinkle it with a glassful of brandy; cover with a slice of bacon, and cook it in the [bain-marie], in the oven, and under cover for forty minutes.
With the carcass and some strong veal stock, prepare two-thirds pint of excellent aspic, and, when withdrawing the duckling from the oven, cover it with this aspic, and let it cool. When about to serve, remove all grease, first by means of a spoon, and then by means of boiling water, and set the [terrine] on a napkin lying on a long dish.
[1773—TIMBALE DE CANETON A LA VOISIN]
Roast a Rouen duckling, and keep it underdone; let it cool, and raise its fillets. With the carcass prepare a Salmis sauce, and thicken it with aspic as for a chaud-froid sauce.
Cut the fillets into slices, coat them with Salmis sauce, and leave this to set. Let a thickness of sauce set on the bottom of a timbale.
Upon this sauce lay some of the coated slices, alternating them with slices of truffle, and cover with a thin layer of aspic jelly. Lay another row of slices of fillet and of truffles, followed as before by a layer of aspic, and continue thus in the same order. Complete with a somewhat thick layer of aspic, and keep in the cool until ready for serving.
N.B.—This old and excellent cold entrée is really only a cold salmis. The procedure may be applied to all game suited to the salmis method of preparation. It is the simplest and certainly the best way of serving them cold.
[1774—PINTADES (GUINEA FOWL)]
The guinea-fowl is not equal to the pheasant from the gastronomical standpoint, though it often takes the place of the latter among the roasts after the shooting season. But, though it has neither the fine flavour nor the delicate meat of the pheasant, it does good service notwithstanding. The majority of pheasant recipes may be applied to it, especially à la Bohémienne, à la crème
, en [Chartreuse], en salmis, à la choucroûte, &c.
[1775—PIGEONS AND SQUABS (PIGEONS ET PIGEONNEAUX)]
Young pigeons are not very highly esteemed by English gourmets, and this is more particularly to be regretted, since, when the birds are of excellent quality, they are worthy the best tables.
[1776—PIGEONNEAUX A LA BORDELAIS]
Open the squabs down the back; season them; slightly flatten them, and toss them in butter. They may just as [564] ]well be halved as left whole. Dish, and surround with the garnish given under “Poulet à la Bordelaise” (No. [1538]).
[1777—PIGEONNEAUX EN CASSEROLE A LA PAYSANNE]
Cook the squabs in the oven in an earthenware saucepan.
When they are two-thirds done, surround them with one and one-half oz. of salted breast of pork, cut into small dice and [blanched], and two oz. of sliced and [sautéd] potatoes for each pigeon. Complete the cooking of the whole gently, and, when about to serve, add a little good gravy.
[1778—PIGEONNEAUX EN CHARTREUSE]
Prepare the Chartreuse in a Charlotte mould, as explained under No. [1182]. Line the bottom and sides with a layer of braised, drained, and pressed cabbages; in the centre set the squabs, cooked “[à la casserole]” and cut into two lengthwise, and alternate them with small rectangles of [blanched], salted breast of pork, and sausage roundels. Cover with cabbages, and steam in a [bain-marie] for thirty minutes.
Let the Chartreuse stand for five minutes after withdrawing from the [bain-marie]; turn out on a round dish, and surround with a few tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce.
[1779—PIGEONNEAUX EN CRAPAUDINE]
Cut the young pigeons horizontally in two, from the apex of the breast to the wings. Open them; flatten them slightly; season them; dip them in melted butter, roll them in bread-crumbs, and grill them gently.
Serve a devilled sauce at the same time.
[1780—PIGEONNEAUX EN COMPOTE]
Fry in butter two oz. of [blanched], salted breast of pork and two oz. of raw mushrooms, peeled and quartered. Drain the bacon and the mushrooms, and set the squabs, trussed as for an entrée, to fry in the same butter.
Withdraw them when they are brown; drain them of butter; swill with half a glassful of white wine; reduce the latter, and add sufficient brown stock and half-glaze sauce ([tomatéd]), in equal quantities, to cover the birds. Plunge them into this sauce, with a faggot, and simmer until they are cooked and the sauce is reduced to half.
This done, transfer the squabs to another saucepan; add the pieces of bacon, the mushrooms, and six small onions, glazed with butter, for each bird; strain the sauce over the [565] ]whole through a fine sieve; simmer for ten minutes more, and serve very hot.
[1781—PIGEON PIE]
Line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with very thin, flattened collops of lean beef, seasoned with salt and pepper, and sprinkled with chopped shallots.
Set the quartered pigeons inside the dish, and separate them with a halved hard-boiled egg-yolk for each pigeon. Moisten half-way up with good gravy; cover with a layer of puff paste; [gild]; streak; make a slit in the top, and bake for about one and one-half hours in a good, moderate oven.
[1782—VOL AU VENT DE PIGEONNEAUX]
Suppress the feet and the pinions; [poële] the squabs, and only just cook them.
Cut each bird into four, and mix them with a garnish “à la Financière” (No. [1474]) combined with the [poëling]-liquor. Pour the whole into a vol-au-vent crust, and dish on a napkin.
[1783—CÔTELETTES DE PIGEONNEAUX[!-- TN: original reads "PIGEONNEAU" --] A LA NESLES]
Cut them in two, and reserve the claw, which serves as the bone of the cutlet. Flatten them slightly; season, and fry them in butter on one side only. Cool them under slight pressure; coat their fried side, dome-fashion, with some godiveau with cream, combined with a third of its bulk of [gratin] forcemeat and chopped truffles. Set them on a tray, and place in a moderate oven to complete the cooking, and poach the forcemeat. Dish in a circle, and separate the cutlets with collops of veal sweetbreads, dipped in beaten eggs, rolled in bread-crumbs, and tossed in butter. Garnish their midst with mushrooms and sliced fowls’ livers, tossed in butter and cohered with a few tablespoonfuls of Madeira sauce.
[1784—CÔTELETTES DE PIGEONNEAUX EN PAPILLOTES]
Cut the pigeons in two, as above; stiffen them in butter, and enclose them in papillotes as explained under “Côtelettes de Veau en Papillotes” (No. [1259]).
[1785—CÔTELETTES DE PIGEONNEAUX A LA SÉVIGNÉ[!-- TN: both acutes invisible --]
[Sauté] the half-pigeons in butter, and leave them to cool under slight pressure. Garnish their cut sides dome-fashion with a [salpicon] of white chicken-meat, mushrooms, and truffles, the whole cohered by means of a cold Allemande sauce.
Dip them in beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and cook them gently in clarified butter.
[566]
]Dish them in a circle; garnish their midst with asparagus-heads cohered with butter, and serve a light, Madeira sauce separately.
[1786—SUPRÊMES DE PIGEONNEAUX A LA DIPLOMATE]
Raise the fillets and slightly flatten them; stiffen them in butter, and leave them to cool under slight pressure. This done, dip them in a Villeroy sauce, combined with chopped herbs and mushrooms, and cool them. Dip each fillet in beaten egg; roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry just before serving.
Dish in a circle, and in their midst set a heap of fried parsley. Send separately a garnish of pigeon quenelles, mushrooms, and small, olive-shaped truffles, to which a half-glaze sauce flavoured with pigeon essence has been added.
[1787—SUPRÊMES DE PIGEONNEAUX A LA SAINT-CLAIR]
With the meat of the legs prepare a [mousseline] forcemeat, and, with the latter, make some quenelles the size of small olives, and set them to poach. [Poële] the breasts, without colouration, on a thick litter of sliced onions, and keep them underdone. Add a little velouté to the onions; rub them through tammy, and put the quenelles in this sauce.
In the middle of a shallow [croustade], set a pyramid of [cèpes] tossed in butter. Raise the fillets; skin them, and set them on the [cèpes]; coat them with the prepared sauce; surround with a thread of meat glaze, and place the quenelles all round.
[1788—SUPRÊMES DE PIGEONNEAUX A LA MARIGNY]
Cut off the legs, and, with their meat, prepare a forcemeat. Poach the latter on a tray, and stamp it out with an oval cutter into pieces the size of the [suprêmes].
Cover the breasts with slices of bacon, and [poële] them, taking care to only just cook them.
Quickly raise the [suprêmes], skin them, and set each upon an oval of forcemeat, sticking them on by means of a little [gratin] forcemeat.
Put the [suprêmes] in the oven for a moment, that this forcemeat may poach. Dish the [suprêmes] round a pyramid consisting of a smooth purée of peas, and coat with a velouté sauce, finished with an essence prepared from the remains and the [poëling]-liquor of the breasts.
[1789—SUPRÊMES DE PIGEONNEAUX AUX TRUFFES]
Raise the [suprêmes], flatten them slightly; toss them in clarified butter, and set them on a border of smooth forcemeat, [567] ]laid on a dish by means of a piping-bag, and poached in the front of the oven.
Swill the vegetable-pan with Madeira; add four fine slices of truffle for each [suprême], and a little pale melted meat glaze, and finish with a moderate amount of butter.
Coat the [suprêmes] with this sauce, and set the slices of truffle upon it.
[1790—MOUSSELINES DE PIGEONNEAUX A L’EPICURIENNE]
Prepare and poach these [mousselines] like the chicken ones, but make them a little smaller. Dish them in the form of a crown; set thereon a young pigeon’s fillet roasted, and in their midst arrange a garnish of peas with lettuce. Coat with a [fumet] prepared from the carcasses and cohered with a few tablespoonfuls of velouté.
N.B.—Pigeons and squabs may also be prepared after the recipes given for chicks.