ISLANDS OF GROUP II.
Baffin island, with its area of 211,000 square miles, is the largest and probably the most important and valuable of the Arctic islands. Its southern shores form the north side of Hudson strait; its eastern side extends from Hudson strait to Lancaster sound, or from 61° N. latitude to 74° N. latitude, a distance of over 850 miles fronting on Davis strait and Baffin bay. The island is bounded on the north by Lancaster sound and on the east by Prince Regent inlet, Fury and Hecla strait and Fox channel. As Archæan crystalline rocks occupy the greater part of the island, the Silurian limestones being almost confined to the western side, the coast is very irregular, and is indented by deep bays, especially along the east and north sides. The larger ones on the eastern side, passing northward, are Frobisher bay, Cumberland gulf, Exeter sound, Home bay, Clyde river, Scott inlet, and Ponds inlet, together with many more of considerable size and length. The principal indentations of the northern coast are the long narrow bays named Navy Board and Admiralty inlets. Much of the western coast is at present unexplored, but enough is known of it to say that no very long bays are to be found there.
Head of Cyrus Field Bay, Baffin Island.
Islands are very numerous along those parts of the coast formed of the crystalline rocks, and these vary greatly in size.
The coast between Ponds inlet and Cape Dier to the northward of Cumberland gulf has never been properly surveyed, and the present charts of this part are, according to the whaling captains, quite erroneous.
The eastern coast of Baffin island is generally high and rocky. The land rises quickly from the sea, often in abrupt cliffs, to elevations of a thousand feet or more, after which the upward slope is more gentle as the land rises towards the interior tableland. The general elevation of the tableland, to the south of Cumberland gulf, ranges from 2,000 to 3,000 feet, while to the northward this wide coastal area is much higher, reaching a general elevation of 5,000 feet, with hills rising above that perhaps one or two thousand feet higher. Inland to the south of Ponds inlet the general elevation does not appear to exceed 3,000 feet, and to the westward is considerably lower. The land fronting on Lancaster sound, between Navy Board and Admiralty inlets, is very rough and broken, and rises in the interior to perhaps a general elevation of 2,000 feet. The remainder of this northern coast between Admiralty inlet and Prince Regent inlet is formed of flat-bedded limestone, and rises in steep cliffs about a thousand feet high to a comparatively flat plateau. This plateau with its cliffs continues down the east side of Prince Regent inlet nearly to Fury and Hecla strait, the land gradually becoming lower towards the south. The eastern side of Fox channel is as yet unexplored, and all information concerning it has been obtained from the Eskimos. They describe the coast as generally low, and much the same in character as that of the limestone islands of Hudson bay. The limestone country terminates some distance north of King cape, which marks the western limit of Hudson strait on its north side, and the coast is again formed of crystalline rock, with its characteristic broken outline and fringe of islands. The northern shores of Hudson strait along its western half although bold are not high, and the interior probably does not reach a general elevation of 1,000 feet. To the eastward of Big island the coast becomes higher, and the land rises slowly inland to elevations of 2,000 to 3,000 feet.
The highlands to the northward of Cumberland gulf, along the east side of the island, appear to be covered with an ice-cap, from which glaciers flow down the valleys leading to the many bays on this coast. These glaciers are neither as heavy nor as active as those of the islands north of Lancaster sound, and only rarely do they project into the sea and discharge icebergs. The lower lands adjoining the coast are usually free of snow during the summer. The ice-cap, according to the natives, does not extend far inland, the interior being practically free of snow during the summer months. About Cumberland gulf and to the southward the highlands are partly snow-covered, but the patches are detached, and there are no glaciers sufficiently large to discharge into the sea. The Grinnell glacier is an ice-cap covering the summit of the highland between Frobisher bay and Hudson strait. It is said to discharge by one small glacier into a fiord on the south side of Frobisher bay, but the ice from it rarely breaks off as icebergs.
Shore of Cumberland Gulf From Blacklead Island.
The northern land between Admiralty and Navy Board inlets is ice-covered, with glaciers filling its seaward valleys, and with the separating rocky ridges rising dark and forbidding from the general field of white. A thin ice-cap covers the northern part of the limestone plateau on the east side of Prince Regent inlet.
The western interior of the northern half of Baffin island is described by the Eskimos as a rough plain, probably less than 1,000 feet in elevation, diversified by rolling hills with numerous lakes in the valleys between. This country is well covered with an Arctic vegetation which provides food for large bands of barren-ground caribou.
There are two large lakes in the lower country of the southwestern part of the island called Nettilling and Amadjuak; both are upwards of a hundred miles long, and the low lands surrounding them are the favourite feeding grounds for large bands of barren-ground caribou. The natives from Cumberland gulf, Frobisher bay and the north shores of Hudson strait resort to the shores of these lakes annually to slaughter large numbers of these animals for food and for their skins, which are used for winter clothing and bedding.
Bylot island lies to the northeast of Baffin, being separated from the latter by the Ponds and Navy Board inlets. It is roughly circular in outline, with a diameter of nearly ninety miles. In physical character it closely resembles the northeastern part of Baffin, already described, being formed from crystalline rocks. The general elevation of the interior ranges from 2,000 to 3,000 feet, and the coastal highlands are covered with an ice-cap which extends ten or fifteen miles inland, the interior, according to the Eskimos, being free of snow during the summer. The ice-rim feeds numerous glaciers, some of which discharge bergs.