FOOTNOTES:
[1] An edition of Apicius, with notes and comments, has been given by Dr. Lister, physician to Queen Anne.
[2] “Cours Gastronomique,” 124.
[3] “Namque cocus domini debet habere gulam.”—Martial.
[4] “Donat. in Terent. Andr.,” act. i. sc. 1.
[5] “Bourgeois Gentilhomme,” act iv. sc. 1.
[6] Amsterdam, 1726.
[7] “Almanach des Gourmands,” 6me année.
[8] Previous to 1789, says the “Almanach des Gourmands,” tom. i, p. 162, there were not one hundred restaurateurs in Paris. Now (in 1803) there are five times as many. Speaking at random and without book, there are at present 4000 or 5000, great and small. The author of the “Almanach des Gourmands” falls into the strange mistake of attributing the increase of restaurateurs to an Anglomania. “It is well known,” says he, “that the English almost always dine at a tavern.” What inconceivable ignorance!
[9] “Memoires Anecdotiques sur l’intérieur du Palais, et sur quelques Evenemens de l’Empire, depuis 1805 jusqu’au 1 Mai 1814, pour servir à l’Histoire de Napoleon,” par L. F. J. De Bausset, ancien Préfet du Palais Impérial.
[10] This was first printed at Milan, in 1498.
[11] At the beginning of this century, Weeks’ Bush Inn, at Bristol, was famous for its Christmas fare. The bill of fare for Christmas 1800 was as follows:—A turtle of 120 lbs., 72 pots of turtle, a bustard, red game, black game, fish of almost innumerable kinds, venison, 42 hares, 87 wild ducks, 17 pheasants, 41 partridges, 17 wild geese, 149 snipes, 81 woodcocks, 17 wild turkeys, 44 tame turkeys, 10 capons, 52 barrels of Purfleet oysters.
[12] Juvenal relates the story somewhat differently:—
“Sed deerat pisci patinæ mensura: vocantur
Ergo in concilium proceres,” &c.—Sat. II.
[13] Galen, Lib. III.—De Aliment. See also Lib. VIII.—Methodi Medendi.
[14] See also, Nonius de Re Cibar.—Lib. VIII.
[15] Dictionnaire des termes du vieux François, ou tresor de recherches et antiquités Gauloises et Françoises, par M. Borel, Conseiller et Médecin ordinaire du Roi. Paris: chez Briasson, Rue St. Jacques. MDCCL.
[16] Lib. XII. cap. 5.
[17] “Ludovici Nonni Dieteticon,” Antverpiæ, MDCXVI. Lib. II. p. 242.
[18] See 4 Inst., cap. lxvi. The office of swanherd is in Rot. Patentium, anno 11 and 4, called “Magister deductus Cygnorum.” See “Le case de Swannes,” lib. 7.
[19] “Observations on the Ancient Statutes.” Dublin: Grierson, 1767.
[20] Nonni “De Re Cib.” Lib. II.
[21] Nonni, “De Re Cibariâ,” lib. ii., p. 215.
[22] “Velocius quam asparagi coquuntur.” Suet.
[23] Cotignac was a confection of quinces.
[24] “Traité des Alimens,” par Lémery.
[25] See “Traité des Alimens de Lémery.” Par le Docteur Bruhier.
[26] “Traité des Alimens,” p. 360.
[27] Eutropius.
[28] Hist. des Empereurs, tom. ii.
[29] Julian in Misopogon, p. 359.
[30] I believe a third edition has been published in 1860.
[31] It would, however, appear that the Romans employed corks:—
“Corticem astrictum pice dimovebit
Amphoræ,”
says Horace.
[32] Henderson says that in some places where wood abounded, as in the neighbourhood of the Alps and in Illyria, wine casks were made of that material; but the vessels in general use among the Greeks and Romans were of earthenware. No authority is, however, cited by the Doctor for this statement.
[33] Lib. xxvii., c. 6.
[34] These customs are now (1864) exploded in London society, and only exist on circuit, at regimental messes, or at public dinners.
[35] “Un poinçon de vin, d’huile, &c. Dolium vel doliolum. Le poinçon est la moitié d’un tonneau d’Orléans, ou d’Anjou. C’est un nom qu’on donne en Blasois et en Touraine au muid de vin. A Rouen le poinçon contient treize boisseaux. C’est à Paris la même chose qu’une demi-queue. On dit, Voici vendanges, il faut acheter des poinçons, faire relier nos poinçons, en parlant de toutes sortes de futailles et de vaisseaux.”—Dictionnaire de Trevoux.
[36] This grape is named the Ciras. In the “Œnologie Française” for 1826, it is spelt Scyras, and it is stated, according to the tradition of the neighbourhood, the plant was originally brought from Shiraz, in Persia, by one of the hermits of the mountain.
[37] History of London, vol. I., p. 250.
[38] Riquette was then a young Parisian cook, who has since made a considerable fortune in the service of the Emperor Alexander. He spoke and wrote so remarkably, that his competitors called him the beau parleur.
Transcriber’s Notes:
1. Obvious printers’, punctuation and spelling errors have been corrected silently.
2. Where hyphenation is in doubt, it has been retained as in the original.
3. Some hyphenated and non-hyphenated versions of the same words have been retained as in the original.