TO THE READER.
_Courteous Reader,
I Think it not amiss, since I have given you, as I think, a very full Direction for all kinds of Food both for Nourishment and Pleasure, that I do shew also how to eat them in good order; for there is a Time and Season for all things: Besides, there is not anything well done which hath not a Rule, I shall therefore give you several Bills of Service for Meals according to the Season of the Year, so that you may with ease form up a Dinner in your Mind quickly; afterwards I shall speak of ordering of Banquets; but these things first, because Banquets are most proper after Meals.
All you who are knowing already and Vers'd in such things, I beseech you to take it only as a_ Memorandum; and to those who are yet unlearned, I presume they will reap some Benefit by these Directions; which is truly wished and desired by
Hanna Woolley alias Chaloner.
* * * * *
A Bill of Service for extraordinary Feasts in the Summer.
1. A Grand Sallad.
2. A boiled Capon or Chickens.
3. A boiled Pike or Bream.
4. A Florentine in Puff Paste.
5. A Haunch of Venison rosted.
6. A Lomber Pie.
7. A Dish of Green Geese.
8. A Fat Pig with a Pudding in the belly.
9. A Venison Pasty.
10. A Chicken Pie.
11. A Dish of young Turkeys.
12. A Potato Pie.
13. A couple of Caponets.
14. A Set Custard.
The Second Course
1. A Dish of Chickens rosted.
2. Souced Conger or Trouts.
3. An Artichoke Pie.
4. A Cold Baked Meat.
5. A Souced Pig.
6. A Dish of Partridges.
7. An Oringado Pie.
8. A Dish of Quails.
9. Another cold Baked Meat.
10. Fresh Salmon.
11. A Dish of Tarts.
12. A Joll of Sturgeon.
The Third Course.
1. Dish of fried Perches.
2. A Dish of Green Pease.
3. A Dish of Artichokes.
4. A Dish of Lobsters.
5. A Dish of Prawns or Shrimps.
6. A Dish of Anchovies.
7. A Dish of pickled Oysters.
8. Two or three dried Tongues.
* * * * *
Another Bill of Fare for Winter Season.
1. A Collar of Brawn.
2. A Capon and White Broth.
3. A boiled Gurnet.
4. A Dish of boiled Ducks or Rabbits.
5. A rosted Tongue and Udder.
6. A made Dish in Puff-Paste.
7. A Shoulder of Mutton with Oysters.
8. A Chine of Beef.
9. A Dish of Scotch Collops of Veal.
10. Two Geese in a Dish.
11. An Olive Pie.
12. A Pig.
13. A Loin of Veal.
14. A Lark Pie.
15. A Venison Pasty.
16. A Dish of Capons, two in a Dish or three.
17. A Dish of Set Custards.
The Second Course.
1. Young Lamb cut in Joints, three Joints in a Dish Larded.
2. A couple of Fat Rabbets.
3. A Kickshaw fried or baked.
4. A Dish of rofted Mallards.
5. A Leash of Partridges.
6. A Pigeon Pie.
7. Four Woodcocks in a Dish.
8. A Dish of Teal, four or six.
9. A cold baked Meat.
10. A good Dish of Plover.
11. Twelve Snites in a Dish.
12. Two Dozen of Larks in a Dish.
13. Another cold baked Meat.
The Third Course.
1. An Oister Pie hot.
2. A Dish of fried Puffs.
3. Three or four dried Neats Tongues.
4. A Joll of Sturgeon.
5. Laid Tarts in Puff-paste.
6. Pickled Oisters.
7. A Dish of Anchovies and Caveare.
8. A Warden Pie or Quince Pie.
Note, That when your last Course is ended, you must serve in your Meat-Jellies, your Cheeses of several sorts, and your Sweet-meats.
* * * * *
A Bill of Fare for lesser Feasts.
1. An Almond Pudding boiled or baked.
2. A Dish of boiled Pigeons with Bacon.
3. A Leg of Mutton, boiled with good Sauce, or a leg of Pork.
4. A Dish of rosted Olives of Veal.
5. A Dish of Collops and Eggs.
6.A piece of rosted Beef.
7. A Dish of Scotch Collops.
8. A Loin of Veal.
9. A fat Pig rosted.
10. Two Turkies in a Dish.
11. A Venison Pasty.
12. A Dish of Pheasants or Partridges.
13. A Dish of Custards in little China Pots.
The Second Course.
1. Three or four Joints of Lamb rosted asunder, though never so small.
2. A Couple of Rabbits.
3. A Dish of Mallard, Teal or Widgeon.
4. A Leash of Partridges or Woodcocks.
5. A Pigeon Pie.
6. A Dish of Plovers or Snites.
7. A Dish of fat Chickens rosted.
8. A Warden or Quince Pie.
9. A Sowced Pig.
10. A Dish of Tarts of several sorts.
11. A Dish of Lobsters, or Sturgeon.
12. A Dish of pickled Oysters.
* * * * *
A Bill of Fare for Fish Days and Fasting Days in Ember week, or in Lent.
1. A Dish of Butter newly Churned.
2. A Dish of Rice Milk or Furmity.
3. A Dish of Buttered Eggs.
4. A Dish of stewed Oysters.
5. A Dish of Gurnets boiled.
6. A boiled Sallad.
7. A boiled Pike or two Carps stewed.
8. A Dish of Buttered Loaves.
9. A Pasty of Ling.
10. A Dish of Buttered Salt Fish.
11. A Dish of Smelts.
12. A Dish of White Herrings broiled.
13. A Potato Pie or Skirret Pie.
14. A Dish of Flounders fryed.
15. An Eel Pie or Carp Pie.
16. A Dish of fryed Whitings.
17. A Dish of Salt Salmon.
18. A Dish of Custards.
19. A Joll of Sturgeon.
20. A Dish of Pancakes or Fritters.
The Second Course.
1. A Dish of Eels spichcockt.
2. A Fricasie of Eels.
3. A Dish of fryed Puffs.
4. A Dish of Potatoes stewed.
5. A Dish of fryed Oysters.
6. A Dish of blanched Manchet.
7. An Oyster Pie with Parsneps.
8. A Pippin Pie Buttered.
9. A Dish of Buttered Shrimps.
10. Two Lobsters rosted.
11. A Dish of Tarts of Herbs.
12. A Dish of souced Fish.
13. A Dish of pickled Oysters.
14. A Dish of Anchovies and Caveare.
* * * * *
A Bill of Fare without feasting; only such a number of Dishes as are used in Great and Noble Houses for their own Family, and for familiar Friends with them.
The First Course in Summer Season.
1. A Fine Pudding boiled or baked.
2. A Dish of boiled Chickens.
3. Two Carps stewed or a boiled Pike.
4. A Florentine in Puff-Paste.
5. A Calves head, the one half hashed, and the other broiled.
6. A Haunch of Venison rosted.
7. A Venison Pasty.
8. A Couple of fat Capons, or a Pig, or both.
The Second Course.
1. A Dish of Partridges.
2. An Artichoke Pie.
3. A Dish of Quails.
4. A cold Pigeon Pie.
5. A Souced Pig.
6. A Joll of fresh Salmon.
7. A Dish of Tarts of several sorts.
8. A Westphalia Gammon and dried Tongues about it.
* * * * *
A Bill of Fare in Winter in Great Houses.
1. A Collar of Brawn.
2. A Capon and White Broth, or two boiled Rabbits.
3. Two rosted Neats Tongues and an Udder between them.
4. A Chine of Beef rosted.
5. A made Dish in Puffpaste.
6. A Shoulder of Mutton stuffed with Oysters.
7. A fine Sallad of divers sorts of Herbs and Pickles.
8. An Eel Pie or some other Pie.
9. Three young Turkies in a Dish.
10. A Dish of souced Fish, what is most in season.
The Second Course in Winter in great Houses.
1. A Quarter of Lamb rosted, the Joints Larded with several things, and rosted asunder.
2. A Couple of Rabbits.
3. A Kickshaw fried.
4. A Dish of Mallard or Teals.
5. A Cold Venison Pasty, or other cold Baked meat.
6. A Dish of Snites.
7. A Quince or Warden Pie.
8. A Dish of Tarts.
9. A Joll of Sturgeon.
10. A Dish of pickled Oysters.
* * * * *
A Bill of Fare for Fish Days in Great Houses and at familiar Times.
1. A Dish of Milk, as Furmity, or the like.
2. A Dish of stewed Oysters or buttered Eggs.
3. A boiled Gurnet, or such like.
4. A Dish of Barrel Cod buttered.
5. A Dish of Buttered Loaves or fryed Toasts.
6. A Pasty made of a Joll of Ling.
7. A Potato Pie, or Skirret Pie.
8. A Dish of Plaice or Flounders.
9. A Piece of salt Salmon.
10. A Carp Pie cold, or Lamprey Pie.
The Second Course to the Same.
1. A Dish of Eels spitchcockt.
2. A Chine of Salmon broiled.
3. A Dish of Oysters fryed.
4. An Apple pie buttered.
5. A Dish of fryed Smelts.
6. A Dish of buttered Shrimps.
7. A Dish of Skirrets fryed.
8. Two lobsters in a Dish.
9. A Dish of pickled Oysters.
10. A Dish of Anchovies.
When all these are taken away, then serve in your Cheeses of all sorts, and also your Creams and Jellies, and Sweet-meats after them, if they be required.
Thus I have done with the Bills of Fare in Great Houses, although it be impossible to name half which are in season for one Meal; but this will serve you for the number of Dishes, and any Person who is ingenious, may leave out some, and put in other at pleasure.
* * * * *
A Bill of Fare for Gentlemens Houses of Lesser Quality, by which you may also know how to order any Family beneath another, which is very requisite.
The First Course in Summer season.
1. A Boiled Pike or Carp stewed.
2. A very fine Pudding boiled.
3. A Chine of Veal, and another of Mutton.
4. A Calves head Pie.
5. A Leg of Mutton rosted whole.
6. A couple of Capons, or a Pig, or a piece of rost Beef, or boiled Beef.
7. A Sallad, the best in season.
The Second Course to the same.
1. A Dish of fat Chickens rosted.
2. A cold Venison Pasty.
3. A Dish of fryed Pasties.
4. A Joll of fresh Salmon.
5. A couple of Lobsters.
6. A Dish of Tarts.
7. A Gammon of Bacon or dried Tongues.
After these are taken away, then serve in your Cheese and Fruit.
Note, That this Bill of Fare is for Familiar times.
* * * * *
A Bill of Fare for Gentlemens Houses at Familiar Times Winter Season.
The First Course.
1. A Collar of Brawn.
2. A rosted Tongue and Udder.
3. A Leg of Pork boiled.
4. A piece of rost Beef.
5. A Venison Pasty or other Pie.
6. A Marrow Pudding.
7. A Goose, or Turkie, or Pig.
8. A Sallad of What's in season.
The Second Course to the same.
1. Two Joints of Lamb rosted.
2. A Couple of Rabbits.
3. A Dish of wild Fowl or Larks.
4. A Goose or Turkie Pie cold.
5. A fryed Dish.
6. Sliced Venison cold.
7. A Dish of Tarts or Custards.
8. A Gammon of Bacon, or dried Tongues, or both in one Dish.
When these are taken away, serve in your Cheese and Fruit as before I have told you.
* * * * *
A Bill of Fare for Gentlemens Houses upon Fish Days, and at Familiar Times.
1. A Dish of Buttered Eggs.
2. An Almond Pudding Buttered.
3. A Dish of Barrel Cod Buttered.
4. A Sallad of what's in season.
5. A Dish of Fresh Fish boiled.
6. A Dish of Eels Spitchcockt.
7. An Oyster Pie or Herring Pie.
8. A Fricasie of Eels and Oysters.
9. A Carp Pie cold, or Lamprey Pie.
. The Second Course to the same.
1. An Apple Pie buttered, or some Pancakes or Fritters.
2. A Dish of fryed Smelts.
3. A Dish of broiled Fish.
4. A Dish of buttered Crabs.
5. A Dish of Lobsters and Prawns.
6. A Joll of Sturgeon or Fresh Salmon.
7. A Dish of Tarts or Custards.
8. A Dish of Anchovies or Pickled Herring.
When these are taken away, serve in your Cheese and Fruit as before I have told you.
* * * * *
Now because I would have every one Compleat who have a Desire to serve in Noble or Great Houses, I shall here shew them what their Office requires; And,
First, For the Kitchin, because without that we shall look lean, and grow faint quickly.
The Cook, whether Man or Woman, ought to be very well skilled in all manner of things both Fish and Flesh, also good at Pastry business, seasoning of all things, and knowing all kinds of Sauces, and pickling all manner of Pickles, in making all manner of Meat Jellies; also very frugal of their Lords or of their Masters, Ladies or Mistresses Purse, very saving, cleanly and careful, obliging to all persons, kind to those under them, and willing to inform them, quiet in their Office, not swearing nor cursing, nor wrangling, but silently and ingeniously to do their Business, and neat and quick about it; they ought also to have a very good Fancy: such an one, whether Man or Woman, deserves the title of a fit Cook.
* * * * *
For a Maid under such a Cook.
She ought to be of a quick and nimble Apprehension, neat and cleanly in her own habit, and then we need not doubt of it in her Office; not to dress her self, specially her head, in the Kitchin, for that is abominable sluttish, but in her Chamber before she comes down, and that to be at a fit hour, that the fire may be made, and all things prepared for the Cook, against he or she comes in; she must not have a sharp Tongue, but humble, pleasing, and willing to learn; for ill words may provoke Blows from a Cook, their heads being always filled with the contrivance of their business, which may cause them to be peevish and froward, if provoked to it; this Maid ought also to have a good Memory, and not to forget from one day to another what should be done, nor to leave any manner of thing foul at night, neither in the Kitchin, nor Larders, to keep her Iron things and others clean scowred, and the Floors clean as well as places above them, not to sit up junketing and gigling with Fellows, when she should be in bed, such an one is a Consumer of her Masters Goods, and no better than a Thief; and besides, such Behaviour favoureth much of Levity. But such an one that will take the Counsel I have seriously given, will not only make her Superiours happy in a good Servant, but she will make her self happy also; for by her Industry she may come one day to be Mistress over others.
* * * * *
Now to the Butler.
He ought to be Gentile and Neat in his Habit, and in his Behaviour, courteous to all people, yet very saving of his Masters Goods, and to order himself in his Office as a faithful Steward, charge and do all things for the honour of his Master or Lady, not suffering their Wine or Strong Drink to be devoured by ill Companions, nor the small to be drawn out in waste, nor Pieces of good Bread to lie to mould and spoil, he must keep his Vessels close stopped, and his Bottles sweet, his Cellars clean washed, and his Buttery clean, and his Bread-Bins wholsom and sweet, his Knives whetted, his Glasses clean washed that there be no dimness upon them, when they come to be used, all his Plate clean and bright, his Table, Basket and Linnen very neat, he must be sure to have all things of Sauce ready which is for him to bring forth, that it may not be to be fetched when it is called for, as Oil, Vinegar, Sugar, Salt, Mustard, Oranges and Limons, and also some Pepper; he must also be very neat and handy in laying the Clothes for the Chief Table, and also the Side-boards, in laying his Napkins in several Fashions, and pleiting them, to set his Glasses, Plate, and Trencher-Plates in order upon the Side-boards, his Water-Glasses, Oranges or Limons; that he be careful to set the Salts on the Table, and to lay a Knife, Spoon and Fork at every Plate, that his Bread be chipped before he brings it in; that he set drink to warm in due time if the season require; that he observe a fit time to set Chairs or Stools, that he have his Cistern ready to set his Drink in; that none be spilt about the Room, to wash the Glasses when any one hath drunk, and to wait diligently on them at the Table, not filling the Glasses too full; such an one may call himself a Butler.
* * * * *
To the Carver.
If any Gentleman who attends the Table, be employed or commanded to cut up any Fowl or Pig, or any thing else whatsoever, it is requisite that he have a clean Napkin upon his Arm, and a Knife and Fork for his use, that he take that dish he should carve from the Table till he hath made it ready for his Superiours to eat, and neatly and handsomly to carve it, not touching of it so near as he can with his Fingers, but if he chance unawares to do so, not to lick his Fingers, but wipe them upon a Cloth, or his Napkin, which he hath for that purpose; for otherwise it is unhandsom and unmannerly; the neatest Carvers never touch any Meat but with the Knife and Fork; he must be very nimble lest the Meat cool too much, and when he hath done, return it to the Table again, putting away his Carving Napkin, and take a clean one to wait withal; he must be very Gentile and Gallant in his Habit, lest he be deemed unfit to attend such Persons.
* * * * *
To all other Men-Servants or Maid-Servants who commonly attend such Tables.
They must all be neat and cleanly in their Habit, and keep their Heads clean kembed, always ready at the least Call and very attentive to hear any one at the Table, to set Chairs or Stools, and not to give any a foul Napkin, but see that every one whom their Lord or Master is pleased to admit to their Table, have every thing which is fit for them, and that they change their Plates when need shall be; also that they observe the eyes of a Stranger what they want, and not force them still to want because they are silent, because it is not very modest for an Inferiour to speak aloud before their Betters; and it is more unfit they should want, since they have leave to eat and drink: they must wait diligently, and at a distance from the Table, not daring to lean on the Chaires for soiling them, or shewing Rudeness; for to lean on a Chair when they wait, is a particular favour shewn to any superiour Servant, as the Chief Gentleman, or the Waiting Woman when she rises from the Table; they must not hold the Plates before their mouths to be defiled with their Breath, nor touch them on the right side; when the Lord, Master, Lady or Mistress shew that favour to drink to any Inferiour, and do command them to fill for them to pledge them, it is not modesty for them to deny Strangers that favour, as commonly they do, but to fulfill their Commands, or else they dishonour the Favour.
When any Dish is taken off the Table, they must not set it down for Dogs to eat, nor eat it themselves by the way, but haste into the Kitchin with it to the Cook, that he may see what is to be set away, and what to be kept hot for Servants; when all is taken away, and Thanks given, they must help the Butler out with those things which belong to him, that he may not lose his Dinner.
They must be careful also to lay the Cloth for themselves, and see that nothing be wanting at the Table, and to call the rest of the Servants to Meals, whose Office was not to wait at the Table, then to sit down in a handsom manner, and to be courteous to every Stranger, especially the Servants of those Persons whom their Lord or Master hath a kindness for.
If any poor Body comes to ask an Alms, do not shut the Door against them rudely, but be modest and civil to them, and see if you can procure somewhat for them, and think with your selves, that though you are now full fed, and well cloathed, and free from care, yet you know not what may be your condition another day: So much to Inferiour Servants.
* * * * *
To the Gentlewomen who have the Charge of the Sweet-Meats, and such like Repasts.
Gentlewomen,
Perhaps you do already know what belongs to serving in fine Cream Cheeses, Jellies, Leaches or Sweet-meats, or to set forth Banquets as well as I do; but (pardon me) I speak not to any knowing Person, but to the Ignorant, because they may not remain so; besides really there are new Modes come up now adays for eating and drinking, as well as for Clothes, and the most knowing of you all may perhaps find somewhat here which you have not already seen; and for the Ignorant, I am sure they may ground themselves very well from hence in many accomplishments, and truly I have taken this pains to impart these things for the general good of my Country, as well as my own, and have done it with the more willingness, since I find so many Gentlewomen forced to serve, whose Parents and Friends have been impoverished by the late Calamities, viz. the late Wars, Plague, and Fire, and to see what mean Places they are forced to be in, because they want Accomplishments for better.
I am blamed by many for divulging these Secrets, and again commended by others for my Love and Charity in so doing; but however I am better satisfied with imparting them, than to let them die with me; and if I do not live to have the Comfort of your Thanks, yet I hope it will cause you to speak well of me when I am dead: The Books which before this I have caused to be put in Print, found so good an acceptance, as that I shall still go on in imparting what I yet have so fast as I can.
Now to begin with the Ordering those things named to you:
If it be but a private Dinner or Supper in a Noble House, where they have none to honour above themselves, I presume it may be thus:
In Summer time, when the Meat is all taken away, you may present your several sorts of Cream Cheeses; One Meal one Dish of Cream of one sort, the next of another; one or two Scollop Dishes with several sorts of Fruit, which if it be small fruit, as Rasps or Strawberries, they must be first washed in Wine in a Dish or Bason, and taken up between two Spoons, that you touch them not.
With them you may serve three or four small Dishes also with Sweet-meats, such as are most in season, with Vine Leaves and Flowers between the Dishes and the Plates, two wet Sweet-meats, and two dry, two of one colour, and two of another, or all of several colours.
Also a Dish of Jellies of several colours in one Dish, if such be required.
If any be left, you may melt them again, and put them into lesser
Glasses, and they will be for another time:
If any dry ones be left, they are soon put into the Boxes again.
If any persons come in the afternoon, if no greater, or so great as the Person who entertains them, then you may present one or two Dishes of Cream only, and a whipt Sillibub, or other, with about four Dishes of Sweet-meats served in, in like manner as at Dinner, with Dishes of Fruit, and some kind of Wine of your own making; at Evenings, especially on Fasting Days at Night, it is fit to present some pretty kind of Creams, contrary from those at Dinner, or instead of them some Possets, or other fine Spoon Meats, which may be pleasant to the taste, with some wet and dry Sweet-meats, and some of your fine Drinks, what may be most pleasing.
At a Feast, you may present these things following.
So soon as the Meat is quite taken away, have in readiness your Cream Cheeses of several sorts and of several of Colours upon a Salver, then some fresh Cheese with Wine and Sugar, another Dish of Clouted Cream, and a Noch with Cabbage Cream of several Colours like a Cabbage; then all sorts of Fruits in season, set forth as followeth:
First, You must have a large Salver made of light kind of Wood, that it may not be too heavy for the Servitor to carry, it must be painted over, and large enough to hold six Plates round about and one larger one in the middle, there must be places made in it to set the Plates in, that they may be very fast and sure from sliding, and that in the middle the seat must be much higher than all the rest, because that is most graceful; your Plates must not be so broad as the Trencher Plates at Meat, and should be either of Silver or China.
Set your Plates fast, then fill every one with several sorts of Fruits, and the biggest sort in the middle, you must lay them in very good order, and pile them up till one more will not lie; then stick them with little green Sprigs and fine Flowers, such as you fancy best; then serve in another such Salver, with Plates piled up with all manner of Sweet-meats, the wet Sweet-meats round about and the dry in the middle, your wet Sweet-meats must be in little glasses that you may set the more on, and between every two glasses another above the first of all, and one on the top of them all; you must put of all sorts of dryed Sweet-meats in the middle Plate, first your biggest and then your lesser, till you can lay no more; then stick them all with Flowers and serve them: And in the Bason of Water you send in to wash the Hands or Fingers of Noble Persons, you must put in some Orange Flower Water, which is very rare and very pleasant.
In Winter you must alter, as to the season, but serve all in this
manner; and then dryed Fruits will also be very acceptable; as dryed
Pears and Pippins, Candied Oranges and Limons, Citrons and Eringoes,
Blanched Almonds, Prunelles, Figs, Raisins, Pistachoes and Blanched
Walnuts.
FINIS.
The CONTENTS of the First Part.