STOCKS, SAUCES, FORCEMEATS, AND GARNISHINGS.
135. White-Roux.
—Put in a saucepan two ounces of butter, and place it on the corner of the hot range, add to it two tablespoonfuls of flour; keep stirring constantly for seven minutes. Then let it cool, and when cold, use in various sauces, as directed.
136. Brown-Roux.
—Place two ounces of good butter in a saucepan on the hot range; mix in two tablespoonfuls of flour, and cook rapidly for about seven minutes, or until it assumes a rich brown color. Let it thoroughly cool off, and then use in different sauces, as mentioned.
137. White Stock—for one gallon.
—Reduce in saucepan on the hot range, one ounce of very good, finely shred, salt pork, previously well washed, and the same of beef suet. Add one carrot, one onion, a bouquet of aromatic herbs ([No. 254]), twelve whole peppers, and four cloves. Brown these well on a moderate fire for four minutes. Add four ounces of flour; stir well, and moisten with a glassful of white wine and three quarts of white broth ([No. 99]). Add one tablespoonful of salt, and stir until it comes to a boil; then let it cook thoroughly for one hour; strain through a fine sieve. This stock should be used without any further thickening.
138. Mirepoix.
—Stew in a saucepan two ounces of fat, two carrots, one onion, one sprig of thyme, one bay-leaf, six whole peppers, three cloves, and, if handy, a ham bone cut into pieces. Add two sprigs of celery and half a bunch of parsley roots; cook for fifteen minutes, and use when directed in other recipes. Scraps of baked veal may also be added, if at hand.
139. Marinade Stock, cooked—for one gallon.
—Stew together a finely sliced sound onion and four parsley roots, adding one pint of vinegar and four quarts of fresh water, also a quarter of a bunch of thyme, six bay-leaves, twenty-four whole peppers, and twelve cloves. Cook well for thirty minutes on a brisk fire, then place in a stone jar, and keep it in a cool place for general use.
140. Marinade Stock, raw—for six persons.
—Finely slice one medium-sized, sound, peeled onion, place it in an earthen crock, with three slices of lemon, two bay-leaves, twelve whole peppers, four cloves, three whole mace, and three sprigs of parsley roots. Add to these two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, a cupful of vinegar, and a pinch of salt. Place the meat or fish in this, and leave it to souse as long as necessary, or about six hours.
141. Meat Glaze—Glace de Viande.
—As this meat glaze, when properly made, will keep in perfect condition for any length of time, I would advise that half a pint be made at a time, in the following manner. Place in a large saucepan ten quarts of white broth ([No. 99]), or nine quarts of consommé ([No. 100]), and reduce it on a moderate fire for fully four hours, at which time it should be reduced to half a pint. Transfer it in a stone jar or bowl; put a cover on, and keep in a cool place for general use.
142. Court Bouillon.
—Cut up one good-sized, peeled and well-washed carrot, with a sound onion, and half a bunch of parsley roots, also cut up; brown them in a glassful of white or red wine, according to the fish; add to it any well-washed pieces of fish-heads and a pint of water. Season with half a pinch each of salt and pepper. Boil well for five minutes; let cool; strain through a napkin or a sieve into a jar, and use when needed. Always avoid straining anything acid into tin or copper vessels—to prevent blackening.
143. Cooked Fine Herbs.
—Chop up one sound onion and two well-peeled shallots; brown them in a saucepan with one ounce of butter, for five minutes, then add double the quantity of finely minced mushrooms and a grain of garlic; season with half a tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper, and finish with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Cook ten minutes longer, and then let it cool.
144. Raw Fine Herbs.
—Chop separately, half an onion, two shallots, two sprigs of parsley, four hairs of chives, and the same of chervil; mix thoroughly before using.
145. Butter, maître d’hôtel.
—Put one ounce of good butter in a bowl with a teaspoonful of very finely chopped parsley, adding the juice of half a sound lemon. Mingle well with a very little nutmeg, and keep it in a cool place to use when needed.
146. Anchovy Butter.
—To one ounce of good butter, add one teaspoonful of anchovy essence; mix well, and keep it on ice—for general use.
147. Butter à la Ravigote.
—Pound together in a mortar one sprig of parsley, the same of tarragon, very little chives, the same of chervil, and one small, peeled shallot. Add half a teaspoonful of anchovy essence, one ounce of good butter, and half a drop of spinach-green. Rub through a fine sieve, and keep it in a cool place for general use.
148. Horseradish Butter.
—Pound in a mortar one teaspoonful of grated horseradish with one ounce of good butter, and season with very little red pepper—third of a saltspoonful. Rub through a fine sieve, and keep it in a cool place. When this butter is added to other sauces, it should not boil again.
149. Lobster Butter.
—Extract the coral from one cooked lobster (the eggs may be used instead); pound it in a mortar to a paste, mixing it with one ounce of good butter and a teaspoonful of mustard. Rub through a fine sieve, and keep in a cool place. The butter can also be used for coloring purposes.
150. Crawfish Butter.
—Pick the meat from the tails of twelve boiled crawfish; dry the shells, and pound them all together in a mortar, adding one ounce of good butter; then place it in a saucepan on a moderate fire, stirring, until it clarifies, for about five minutes; then strain through a napkin, letting it drop into cold water. When it is congealed, take it out, and place it in a warm basin, stirring until it assumes the desired color. The same method can be used for lobsters and shrimps.
151. Sauce Espagnole—for one gallon.
—Mix one pint of raw, strong mirepoix ([No. 138]) with two ounces of good fat (chicken’s fat is preferable). Mix with the compound four ounces of flour, and moisten with one gallon of white broth ([No. 99]). Stir well, and then add, if handy, some baked veal and ham bones. Boil for three hours, and then remove the fat very carefully; rub the sauce through a very fine sieve, and keep it for many purposes in cooking.
152. Sauce Velouté.
—Melt one ounce of good butter in a saucepan, adding two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir well, not letting it get brown. Moisten with a pint and a half of good veal and chicken stock, the stronger the better. Throw in a garnished bouquet ([No. 254]), half a cupful of mushroom liquor, if at hand, six whole peppers, half a pinch of salt, and a very little nutmeg. Boil for twenty minutes, stirring continuously with a wooden spatula; then remove to the side of the fire, skim thoroughly, and let it continue simmering slowly for one hour. Then rub through a fine sieve. This sauce will make the foundation for any kind of good white stock.
153. Sauce Villeroi.
—Strain and place in a saucepan with one ounce of butter, two tablespoonfuls of raw mirepoix ([No. 138]), adding two tablespoonfuls of flour. Cook, and mix well together for five minutes; moisten with three pints of white broth ([No. 99]), and season with half a tablespoonful of salt. Boil for one hour; then strain through a fine sieve and use when needed.
154. Béchamel Sauce.
—Place in a saucepan two ounces of butter, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir constantly for five minutes. Moisten with a pint and a half of boiling milk, being careful to pour it in gradually; then beat it well with a whisk. Add half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, a pinch of salt, a bouquet ([No. 254]), twelve whole peppers, and a little mushroom liquor, if at hand. Cook well for fifteen minutes, and when done rub through a fine sieve.
155. Melted Butter Sauce.
—Put one ounce of good butter in a saucepan on a slow fire, stir, and when melted add the juice of half a lemon. Serve in a sauce bowl.
156. Nut-brown Butter Sauce.
—Place one ounce of good butter in a frying-pan, let it heat until it assumes a nut-brown color, then add one drop of vinegar, and use when needed.
157. Black Butter Sauce.
—Warm one ounce of good butter in the frying-pan until it becomes brown; add six parsley leaves, heat again for one minute, then throw in five drops of vinegar. Pour it into a sauce-bowl and serve.
158. Lobster Sauce.
—Pour one pint of Hollandaise sauce ([No. 160]) into a saucepan; place it on the hot stove, but do not allow it to boil. Add the claw of a good-sized boiled lobster cut into lozenge-shaped pieces; heat well for five minutes, stirring it lightly, add a quarter of an ounce of lobster butter ([No. 149]), and serve when needed.
159. Drawn-Butter Sauce.
—Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, adding two tablespoonfuls of flour while stirring; moisten with one quart of water, and season with one tablespoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Let it simmer on the side of the stove for thirty minutes until it thickens; then add, little by little, half an ounce of butter, beating it continuously until it becomes perfectly white. Squeeze in the juice of a lemon; stir once more, strain through a hair sieve and serve.
160. Sauce Hollandaise.
—Place one sound, sliced onion, six whole peppers and a bay-leaf in a saucepan with two ounces of good butter on the hot stove; stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour to thicken, then moisten with a pint and a half of either chicken or white broth ([No. 99]); mix well with a whisk or wooden spatula, being careful to remove any accumulated fat. Add half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg and half a tablespoonful of salt, and cook for twenty-five minutes. Beat the yolks of three eggs separately with the juice of half a medium-sized sound lemon. Pour them gradually into the sauce, being careful not to boil it again after they have been added. Rub through a hair sieve into a serving bowl, and finish with half an ounce of good butter, mixing it well, and serve.
161. Egg Sauce.
—Use one pint of the Hollandaise sauce ([No. 160]), and when ready to serve sprinkle it with two chopped hard-boiled eggs and a teaspoonful of minced parsley.
162. Bread Sauce.
—Crumble one and a half ounces of fresh bread crumbs, and place them in a saucepan with not quite half a cupful of cold water; add half an ounce of butter, half a tablespoonful of salt, and six whole peppers. Cook for five minutes; then pour in half a cupful of cream or milk. Cook again for five minutes, and serve in a sauce-bowl, removing the peppers.
163. Anchovy Sauce.
—To three-quarters of a pint of drawn-butter sauce ([No. 159]), or Hollandaise sauce ([No. 160]), add one tablespoonful of anchovy essence; beat well together and serve.
164. Horseradish Sauce.
—Add two tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish to three-quarters of a pint of béchamel sauce ([No. 154]); also half a pinch of powdered sugar, a third of a pinch of cayenne pepper, and half a pinch of salt. Boil for five minutes. Should the sauce be too thick add a little cream or milk, and three drops of vinegar in case the horseradish be fresh.
165. Sauce Percillade.
—Pour half a cupful of sweet oil into an earthen bowl with the juice of half a lemon, half a tablespoonful of salt, and a scant teaspoonful of pepper. Beat well with a spoon or whisk, adding one teaspoonful of parsley, half the quantity of chervil, the same of tarragon and chives all chopped very fine together, and a teaspoonful of mustard. Mix the whole well before serving.
166. Sauce Béarnaise.
—Chop very fine two medium-sized, sound, well-peeled shallots; place them in a small saucepan on the hot range, with two tablespoonfuls of either tarragon or chervil vinegar, and five whole crushed peppers. Reduce until nearly dry, then put away to cool. Mingle with it six fresh raw egg yolks, sharply stirring meanwhile, then gradually add one and a half ounce of good fresh butter; seasoning with half a tablespoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, and twelve finely chopped sound tarragon leaves. Have a much wider pan on the fire with boiling water, place the small one containing the ingredients into the other, and see that the boiling water reaches up to half its height; thoroughly heat up, beating briskly with the whisk; when the sauce is firm add one teaspoonful of melted meat-glaze ([No. 141]), beat lightly for two seconds longer, then strain through an ordinary, clean kitchen towel, neatly arrange the sauce on a hot dish to be sent to the table; and dress over it any article required to be served.
167. Sauce Trianon.
—The same as for Béarnaise sauce ([No. 166]), but pour the sauce over the article to be served, instead of under; finish with two medium-sized sliced truffles, nicely arranged on top.
168. Apple Sauce.
—Core, peel and quarter four sour apples. Place them in a saucepan with half a glassful of water, half a tablespoonful of salt, and two ounces of sugar. Cover and cook for about twenty-five minutes, or until the apples are reduced to a marmalade; then strain through a colander, and add the third of a pinch of cinnamon, if necessary.
169. Mint Sauce.
—Take one-quarter of a bunch of finely minced mint-leaves, moistening with half a cupful of water and half a cupful of broth ([No. 99]), or consommé ([No. 100]); add four tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a tablespoonful of salt, and half an ounce of sugar; stir well and serve in a sauce-bowl.
170. Green Sauce.
—Pound in a mortar one sprig of parsley and three hairs of chervil; add three medium-sized vinegar-pickles, half a small, white onion, one anchovy, and a teaspoonful of capers. Mix these with soaked bread the size of an egg, and pound all well together. When the preparation is reduced to a paste, rub it through a fine sieve, put it in a bowl and stir well, adding half a cupful of sweet oil, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and half a tablespoonful of salt. This sauce must be consistent and of a green color.
171. Suprême Sauce.
—Clean thoroughly the carcass of one raw chicken and place it in a saucepan, covering it with water; cook quickly, and at the first boil take it off, drain and wash the carcass well. Put it back into a very clean saucepan, covering it with one quart of white broth ([No. 99]), adding a bouquet ([No. 254]) and half a tablespoonful of salt. Cook for forty-five minutes; have two tablespoonfuls of white roux ([No. 135]) separate; pour the broth over it, continuing to stir; reduce to half, and strain through a fine Chinese strainer. Add half a cupful of good cream and an ounce of fresh butter and finish with the juice of half a lemon.
172. Tarragon Sauce.
—Put half a pint sauce velouté ([No. 152]) to boil in a saucepan on the hot stove. Add half a cupful of white broth ([No. 99]) and two sprigs of tarragon. Season with a very little salt, and cook for ten minutes. Cut up very fine, and add to the sauce when serving twelve blanched tarragon leaves.
173. Oyster Sauce.
—Open eighteen medium-sized, fine Shrewsbury oysters and put them in a saucepan with one ounce of good butter, placing the pan on the stove. Cook for four minutes; remove half the liquid from the pan and add a pint of hot Allemande sauce ([No. 210]). Then with the spatula mix lightly together without allowing it to boil, and serve.
174. Indian Sauce.
—Brown in a saucepan one sliced onion, one ounce of raw lean ham, one sprig of thyme, and twelve whole peppers, with one ounce of butter. Add a teaspoonful of powdered curry diluted in a pint of sauce velouté ([No. 152]); boil for ten minutes. Then strain through a Chinese strainer into another saucepan, being careful to pour in half a cupful of cream, the juice of half a lemon and two egg yolks. Then serve.
175. Sauce Normande, for Fish.
—To a pint of sauce velouté ([No. 152]) add two tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor. Reduce the sauce for ten minutes, and place in it two tablespoonfuls of fish-stock ([No. 214]). Let it just boil again, then add two egg yolks and the juice of half a lemon; strain through a fine sieve and stir in half an ounce of fresh butter. This sauce should be consistent.
175½. Normande, garnishing for Meat.
—Neatly peel and wash well twelve celery knobs, drain, and then place six of them in a saucepan with one tablespoonful of butter, one pinch of salt, half a pinch of pepper, and a gill of white broth ([No. 99]), and cook for twenty minutes on a moderate fire; then mash them as you would potatoes; when thoroughly mashed place them in a warm place for further action. Take the other six celery knobs, cut out very carefully the centres with the aid of a vegetable scoop, leaving about half an inch uncut at the bottom to prevent burning. Season with one pinch of salt only, evenly divided. Stuff them with the above farce; then place them in a saucepan with half a medium-sized, sound, scraped and sliced carrot, half a peeled and sliced onion, and a tablespoonful of butter. Cook three minutes on a moderate fire. Add a wine-glassful of good cider and a gill of white broth ([No. 99]). Cook again for twenty minutes. Arrange the remaining mashed celery in the centre of the hot serving dish, place the meat over it, nicely surround the dish with the six stuffed celery knobs, strain the gravy over, arranging a small piece of cooked cauliflower on top of each, and serve very hot.
176. Sauce à la Toulouse.
—To a pint of Hollandaise sauce ([No. 160]) add two tablespoonfuls of white wine, one sliced truffle, and six minced mushrooms. Heat well without boiling, and when serving add a little meat-glaze ([No. 141]).
177. Sauce maître d’hôtel, liée.
—Add to half a pint of warm Hollandaise sauce ([No. 160]), a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, half an ounce of butter, a scant teaspoonful of pepper, and half a teaspoonful of nutmeg; then serve.
178. Shrimp Sauce.
—Place half an ounce of shrimp butter ([No. 150]) in half a pint of Hollandaise sauce ([No. 160]); stir well on the fire for five minutes, and when ready to serve add twelve picked shrimp tails and the juice of half a lemon. Heat without boiling, and serve.
179. Sauce à la Venitienne.
—Reduce for four minutes one tablespoonful of tarragon-vinegar and chervil-vinegar with six whole peppers, one ounce of lean cooked ham cut into small dice, six parsley roots, one sprig of thyme, and one bay-leaf. Then strain through a napkin into a bowl; moisten with half a pint of sauce velouté ([No. 152]), and finish the sauce with twelve leaves of finely cut tarragon, two drops of spinach green, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley.
180. Sauce à la Matelote.
—Reduce for five minutes one glassful of good red wine with a bouquet ([No. 254]) and a small glassful of mushroom liquor; then add half a pint of velouté ([No. 152]) and boil for five minutes. Strain, and then add the third of a tablespoonful of salt and a scant teaspoonful of pepper, and throw in twelve small, cooked, glazed onions ([No. 972]), four mushrooms cut into quarters, and one ounce of cooked salt pork cut in dice. Cook again for five minutes, and serve.
181. Cream Sauce.
—Take half a pint of béchamel sauce ([No. 154]); add half an ounce of butter, and beat them together carefully, adding half a cupful of sweet cream. Then serve.
182. Sauce à l’Aurore.
—To half a pint of hot, highly seasoned béchamel sauce ([No. 154]) in a saucepan add a small glassful of mushroom liquor, half an ounce of butter, and three tablespoonfuls of very red tomato sauce ([No. 205]). Stir well on the fire for five minutes, then add square cuts of six whole mushrooms, and serve.
183. Sauce à la Duchesse.
—Cut up in small dice-shaped pieces half an ounce of cooked ham and two truffles, place these in a saucepan on the fire, with half a wine-glassful of white wine; let reduce for three minutes on a brisk fire. Add one gill of good tomato sauce ([No. 205]). Boil for one minute with a tablespoonful of glace de viande ([No. 141]). Add half a pint of Allemande sauce ([No. 210]). Toss well while heating, but do not allow to boil again, and serve very hot.
184. Sauce Princesse.
—Take eighteen chicken quenelles, two truffles cut in slices, and one blanched chicken liver cut in dice shape; place all in a saucepan on the fire with half a glassful of white wine, and let reduce for three minutes; then add one tablespoonful of glace de viande ([No. 141]), let come to a boil; add half a pint of good Allemande sauce ([No. 210]). Toss well together, but do not allow to boil, and serve very hot.
185. Sauce Demi-Glace, or Madeira.
—Add one small glassful of mushroom liquor to one pint of good Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]); also a small glassful of Madeira wine, a bouquet ([No. 254]), and a scant teaspoonful of pepper. Remove the fat carefully and cook for thirty minutes, leaving the sauce in a rather liquid state; then strain and use when needed. This takes the place of all Madeira sauces.
186. Sauce Bordelaise.
—Chop up two shallots very fine; put them with half a glassful of red wine in a saucepan on the fire, reduce to half, and then add three-quarters of a pint of good Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]) and a scant teaspoonful of red pepper. Cook for twenty minutes, and before serving place eighteen round slices of blanched marron in the sauce.
187. Sauce à la Génoise.
—Strain about two tablespoonfuls of cooked mirepoix ([No. 138]), and moisten it with half a glassful of red wine; reduce to half on the hot stove, then add half a pint of Espagnole ([No. 151]), two tablespoonfuls of white broth ([No. 99]), and a scant tablespoonful of pepper. Cook for ten minutes, then strain through a sieve; put in half an ounce of good butter and a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce ([No. 163]), and serve.
188. Sauce Italienne.
—Brown two medium-sized, fine, peeled, and chopped-up shallots in a saucepan with a quarter of an ounce of butter, adding half an ounce of cooked, lean ham cut into small dice shape, four minced mushrooms, one finely minced truffle, and a glassful of Madeira wine. Let all cook together for five minutes; then add half a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]); let it then come to a boil, and serve very hot.
189. Sauce Duxelle.
—Reduce half a pint of Madeira sauce ([No. 185]) with half a glassful of white wine; add to it twelve very finely chopped mushrooms, two shallots also chopped up and browned in a very little butter for five minutes, and half an ounce of chopped, cooked beef-tongue. Boil again for five minutes and serve.
190. Sauce Colbert.
—Put in a saucepan half a pint of very thick Madeira sauce ([No. 185]); add to it very gradually one ounce of good, fresh butter, also two tablespoonfuls of meat-glaze ([No. 141]). Mix well together without boiling; then squeeze in the juice of half a sound lemon, and add one teaspoonful of chopped parsley when serving.
191. Sauce Perigueux.
—Chop up very fine two fine truffles; place them in a sautoire with a glassful of Madeira wine. Reduce on the hot stove for five minutes. Add half a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]). Just allow to come to a boil, and serve very hot.
192. Sauce Robert.
—Slice half an onion and fry it in a saucepan with half an ounce of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar until it is of a golden color, or about five minutes; then moisten with half a glassful of white wine and half a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]). Boil for ten minutes; then add a teaspoonful of dry English mustard, diluted in cold broth or gravy; stir carefully, and finally rub through a hair sieve and serve.
193. Sauce Salmi.
—Place in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of fumet of game ([No. 213]) with a half pint of Madeira sauce ([No. 185]); add two or three livers of any kind of game at hand, cut into small dice-shape pieces. Cook together on a moderate fire for ten minutes; then strain through a colander; mix in the zest of a sound lemon just before serving.
194. Sauce Poivrade.
—Fry in half an ounce of butter half an onion and half a carrot, cut up, a sprig of thyme, one bay-leaf, six whole peppers, three cloves, a quarter of a bunch of parsley-roots, and half an ounce of raw ham cut in pieces. Cook it together for five minutes, then moisten with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]). Boil thoroughly for twenty minutes, then strain through a colander, being careful to remove every particle of grease.
195. Sauce Napolitaine.
—Reduce in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of raw mirepoix ([No. 138]) with half an ounce of butter; after five minutes moisten with a small glassful of Madeira wine, half a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), two tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce ([No. 205]), and two tablespoonfuls of fumet of game ([No. 218]), if any on hand. Reduce for ten minutes, and rub through a sieve.
196. Sauce Hachée.
—Chop up very fine two shallots and fry them lightly in a saucepan with half an ounce of butter; add a tablespoonful of capers and three small chopped vinegar-pickles, also a teaspoonful of vinegar. Reduce the sauce for ten minutes; then moisten with half a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), adding a tablespoonful of cooked fine herbs ([No. 143]). Cook again for ten minutes, and serve.
197. Sauce Chasseur.
—Reduce in a saucepan half a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]) with two tablespoonfuls of fumet of game ([No. 218]); after five minutes thicken it with two tablespoonfuls of hare’s blood—the blood of any other kind of game will answer—mixed with six drops of vinegar. Do not let it boil after the blood is added to the sauce.
198. Sauce Diable.
—Pour a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]) into a saucepan with a teaspoonful of dry mustard, diluted in two teaspoonfuls of Parisian sauce, adding a third of a saltspoonful of red pepper. Mix well together. Cook for five minutes and serve.
199. Crapaudine Sauce.
—Place half a pint of light piquante sauce ([No. 203]) in a saucepan on the fire, add four chopped mushrooms, and a teaspoonful of dry mustard, diluted in two teaspoonfuls of tarragon-vinegar. Boil for five minutes and serve.
200. Celery Sauce.
—Clean well, nicely pare, and cut into dice-shaped pieces, and then wash thoroughly in fresh water three roots of fine celery, using only the white parts. Lift them out with the hand, so that the sand and dirt remain at the bottom of the pan, and place them in a saucepan. Cover them with fresh water, adding two pinches of salt and half an ounce of butter. Put on the lid, and cook on the hot stove for twenty-five minutes. Drain, and place the celery in the saucepan again with a pint of hot Allemande sauce ([No. 210]); toss well for just a little while, and serve.
201. Vinaigrette Sauce.
—Chop up together very fine one shallot, two branches of parsley, the same of chervil and chives, and when very fine place them in a sauce-bowl with a tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of pepper, and three tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Stir all well together; then add four tablespoonfuls of good oil, mix well again, and serve.
202. Mustard Sauce.
—Dilute in a saucepan one tablespoonful of ground English mustard with a tablespoonful of tarragon-vinegar, and half the same quantity of Parisian sauce; strain into this a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), and place the pan on the hot stove. Beat continually until thoroughly heated, then add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. This sauce must not be allowed to boil.
203. Sauce Piquante.
—Place one onion chopped up very fine in a saucepan with half a cupful of vinegar; reduce until almost dry, and then add one pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), one tablespoonful of capers, three small gherkins and three mushrooms, all finely chopped up together. Cook for ten minutes; season with the third of a tablespoonful of salt, and a scant teaspoonful of pepper, and serve.
204. Champagne Sauce.
—Place two cloves, six whole peppers, one bay-leaf, half a tablespoonful of powdered sugar in a saucepan with a good glassful of champagne; place it on the fire, and reduce for five minutes. Then moisten with three-quarters of a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), and cook for fifteen minutes longer; strain through a Chinese strainer, and serve.
205. Tomato Sauce.
—Place two tablespoonfuls of raw mirepoix ([No. 138]) in a saucepan with one ounce of butter; cook on a moderate fire for five minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls of flour, brown all well. Select one quart of well-washed, ripe, sound, fresh tomatoes, cut them into quarters, and plunge them into the saucepan with the rest, stirring briskly with a wooden spoon until they boil. Season with a good pinch of salt, half a pinch of pepper, and half a teaspoonful of powdered sugar. Boil the whole for forty-five minutes, then strain through a sieve into a vessel, and use when needed. This sauce can also be made with canned tomatoes, in which case cook them for only thirty minutes.
206. Sauce Mayonnaise.
—Place two fresh egg yolks into an earthen bowl, with half a teaspoonful of ground English mustard, half a pinch of salt, half a saltspoonful of red pepper; sharply stir with a wooden spoon for two or three minutes without ceasing. Pour in, drop by drop, one and a half cupfuls of the best olive oil. Should it become too thick, add, drop by drop, the equivalent of a teaspoonful of very good vinegar, stirring vigorously with the wooden spoon meanwhile. Taste, and if found a little too acid, gradually add a tablespoonful of oil, stirring continually until all added. The whole operation to prepare the above sauce will take from ten to twelve minutes. To avoid spoiling the sauce, the sweet oil should always be kept in a place of moderate temperature, say, from 70° to 75° Fahrenheit.
207. Sauce Tartare.
—Chop up one shallot exceedingly fine, with half a tablespoonful of chervil, and the same of tarragon, and twelve capers chopped exceedingly fine. Place these in an earthen bowl with half a teaspoonful of ground English mustard, two raw egg yolks, a teaspoonful of vinegar (a small drop at a time), half a pinch of salt, and a third of a pinch of pepper. Pour in very lightly, while continuing to stir, a cupful of good olive oil, and if too thick, add a little more vinegar. Taste it to find whether the seasoning is correct; if too salt, add a little more mustard and oil.
208. Victoria Sauce.
—Pound one tablespoonful of lobster coral very fine with half an ounce of fresh butter. Then lay it aside. In three-quarters of a pint of Allemande sauce ([No. 210]), place half a glassful of white wine and six chopped mushrooms; let it warm thoroughly, without boiling, in a saucepan, and then mix in the lobster coral. Stir well, and serve. A few sliced truffles can be used, according to the quality of the dinner.
209. Remoulade Sauce.
—Chop up very fine twelve capers, one shallot, three small vinegar-pickles, and add one-half a tablespoonful of chives, with one tablespoonful of parsley. Place them in a bowl with a whole raw egg, a teaspoonful of ground English mustard, half a pinch of salt, and half a pinch of pepper. Incorporate well together, adding four tablespoonfuls of oil and four of vinegar, but keep the sauce sufficiently liquid. Serve when required.
210. Sauce Allemande.
—Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan on a slow fire, with three tablespoonfuls of flour to thicken. Stir well, not letting it brown; then moisten with one pint of white broth ([No. 99]), beating constantly, and cook for ten minutes. Dilute three egg yolks separately in a bowl; pour the sauce over the eggs, a very little at a time; strain through a Chinese strainer, and finish with half an ounce of good butter and the juice of half a lemon, taking care that it does not boil a second time.
211. Prussian Sauce.
—Add to three-quarters of a pint of hot béchamel sauce ([No. 154]), a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a scant teaspoonful of red pepper, three tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, and two tablespoonfuls of cold cream. Let it boil for four minutes, meanwhile stirring it well, and use when needed.
212. Sauce Chambord.
—Place one truffle and three mushrooms, sliced very thin, in half a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), adding three tablespoonfuls of Court bouillon ([No. 142]), six fish quenelles ([No. 227]), and twelve medium-sized, whole, blanched oysters. Cook slowly for five minutes, and serve.
213. Sauce Montglas.
—Cut very carefully into small julienne-shaped pieces one ounce of cooked smoked beef tongue, one ounce of cooked chicken, two truffles, and four mushrooms. Place all in a saucepan, with half a wineglassful of good Madeira wine; place the pan on a brisk fire, and let reduce for three minutes. Then add half a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), and one gill of good tomato sauce ([No. 205]). Let all cook for five minutes longer, and serve very hot.
214. Cuisson de Poisson—Fish Broth. For one Gallon
—Fill a saucepan with three quarts of water, a good handful of salt, half a glassful of vinegar, one carrot, and one onion (both sliced), half a handful of whole peppers, one bunch of parsley-roots, three sprigs of thyme, and three bay-leaves. Cook on a moderate fire for fifteen minutes. Cool, and use when needed for various methods of cooking fish.
215. Duxelle.
—Reduce half a pint of cooked, fine herbs ([No. 143]) in a saucepan, with a quarter of a pint of Madeira sauce ([No. 185]), on a moderate stove for about ten minutes, when it will then be of a proper consistency and ready to serve.
216. Clear Gravy—For One Gallon.
—Place two carrots and one onion cut in slices in a saucepan, with two ounces of uncooked, sliced, salt pork, one sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves, and half a bunch of parsley-roots. Add any scraps of meat, such as shin-bone of veal or beef, or chicken giblets, and a handful of salt; cover well, as it should not color, and moisten with one and a half gallons of water. Cook thoroughly for an hour and a half, then press through a napkin; place it in a stone jar, and use it after carefully removing all the fat.
217. Chicken Essence.
—Press one quart of chicken broth through a napkin, and then reduce it in a saucepan until there remains only one-half a pint, and use when needed.
218. Fumet of Game.
—Pare and slice one sound carrot and half a medium-sized onion; place them with half a sprig of thyme, one bay-leaf, a small piece of raw, lean ham, also cut up, and the carcass of any kind of raw game in a covered saucepan. Let them brown well; add a glassful of Madeira wine, let it come to a boil; then moisten with one quart of white broth ([No. 99]), or consommé ([No. 100]); add a pinch of salt, twelve whole peppers. Cook well for forty-five minutes, then press through a napkin.
219. Game Stock.
—Place in a saucepan two game carcasses and one pint of mirepoix ([No. 138]); cover them with water, adding a pinch of salt. Cook for twenty minutes, and use when needed.
220. Sausage Forcement.
—Cut up one pound of fresh pork into small pieces, season it with one pinch of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, half a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, and the same quantity of powdered thyme, and chop all up very fine. A quarter of a pound of lean, raw meat can be added if desired. Use when needed.
221. Godiveaux Forcemeat.
—Remove the stringy tissue from half a pound of veal suet, pound it in a mortar; take the same quantity of lean veal, chopped in the machine, a quarter of a pound of very consistent pâte-à-chou ([No. 1240]), omitting the eggs, and pound all together. Season highly with a tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of pepper, and half a teaspoonful of nutmeg. Add four raw egg yolks and two whole ones, and when well incorporated strain through a sieve, and put it on ice to be used when required in other recipes. Poach it for three minutes before serving.
This recipe can be prepared with poultry or game instead of veal.
222. Lobster Forcemeat.
—Fry an onion, chopped very fine, in one ounce of good butter until it is of a golden brown color, adding one tablespoonful of flour to make a roux ([No. 135]). Moisten with half a pint of white stock ([No. 137]), stirring well and constantly until the sauce hardens. Season with half a tablespoonful of salt, a scant teaspoonful of white pepper, the same of cayenne, one tablespoonful of English sauce, half a teaspoonful of mustard, a crushed grain of garlic, and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Stir well, adding two pounds of cooked lobster, cut up very fine, with twelve mushrooms, also chopped. Cook for thirty minutes in a saucepan, then put it back off the hot fire; add four egg yolks, stir again for a moment, cool, and serve when required.
223. Crab Forcemeat.
—The same as for [No. 222], using twelve crabs in the place of lobster.
224. Clam Forcemeat.
—Proceed the same as for [No. 222], seasoning it more highly, and having twenty-four clams blanched and minced exceedingly fine, so that they will better incorporate in the forcemeat.
225. Chicken Forcemeat à la Crême.
—Cut two raw chicken breasts in slices, pound them well in a mortar, adding the whites of three eggs; bruise well together, and season with half a tablespoonful of salt, a scant teaspoonful of pepper, and a teaspoonful of nutmeg. Add three tablespoonfuls of very fresh cream, strain through a sieve, cool on the ice, and use when required.
226. Chicken Forcemeat.
—Cut in large pieces two raw chicken breasts, pound them in a mortar, adding the same quantity of bread soaked in milk, a teaspoonful of fresh butter and four egg yolks, seasoning with half a tablespoonful of salt, a scant teaspoonful of pepper, and a teaspoonful of nutmeg. Mix all together; strain, and put it in a bowl with three tablespoonfuls of velouté sauce ([No. 152]).
227. Forcemeat Quenelles of Fish.
—Select one pound of firm fish (bass is preferable), remove the skin and take out the bones. Pound it well in a mortar, adding the whites of three eggs a little at a time. When well pounded add half a pint of cream, half a tablespoonful of salt, and a little white pepper and nutmeg. Mix well, and use when needed.
228. Partridge Forcemeat.
—Cut two breasts of partridges into large pieces, pound them well in a mortar, gradually adding the same quantity of bread soaked in milk, four egg yolks, one after another, and a teaspoonful of butter. Season with half a pinch of salt, the third of a pinch of pepper, and the same quantity of grated nutmeg; thoroughly pound all together, then rub through a sieve. If not sufficiently consistent, add one more egg yolk.
When game other than partridge is used add two pounded truffles, and use when required.
229. American Forcemeat.
—Place on the fire in a saucepan for five minutes two very finely chopped onions with an ounce of butter. Soak in water for fifteen minutes the crumbs of a loaf of bread; press out all the water either with the hands or through a cloth, put the crumbs in a bowl with three whole raw eggs, a tablespoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of pepper, a tablespoonful of sage, a large half teaspoonful of nutmeg, three skinned sausages, and a pinch of chopped parsley. Add the cooked onions, and mix well together; use the forcemeat when needed in other recipes.
230. Mushroom Garnishing.
—Mince finely twelve mushrooms and place them in a saucepan with half a pint of Madeira sauce ([No. 185]). Cook for five minutes, and serve.
231. Garnishing Bayard.
—Cut into very thin round slices with a tube one good-sized truffle, one ounce of cooked smoked beef-tongue, three mushrooms, and two artichoke bottoms. Place all in a saucepan on the fire with half a wine-glassful of Madeira wine. Reduce to one-half, which will take about five minutes. Then add half a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), and cook for fifteen minutes. Surround the dish with croûtons of bread ([No. 133]) covered with thin slices of pâté-de-foie-gras.
232. Garnishing à la Chipolata—for one gallon.
—Fry a quarter of a pound of salt pork, cut dice-shaped, for two minutes in a saucepan; then add half a pint of carrots cut tubular shaped, half a pint of onions browned and glazed in the oven ([No. 972]), one pint of blanched and peeled chestnuts, half a pint of mushrooms, and six small sausages cut in pieces. Add two quarts of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), half a pint of tomato sauce ([No. 205]), a tablespoonful of salt, and a large teaspoonful of pepper. Cook for thirty minutes, and use when needed.
233. Garnishing Vanderbilt.
—Peel one green pepper; chop it very fine, and place it in a stewpan with one tomato cut into small pieces. Add an ounce of butter and eighteen canned, picked, and chopped-up shrimps; season with a third of a tablespoonful of salt and a scant teaspoonful of pepper. Cook for ten minutes, and use for garnishing.
234. Garnishing Valencienne.
—Cut in long shreds one truffle, three mushrooms, and a very little cooked tongue, adding three tablespoonfuls of cooked rice; put all together in a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce ([No. 205]), a third of a tablespoonful of salt, a scant teaspoonful of pepper, and one tablespoonful of grated cheese. Boil for five minutes, and serve when needed.
235. Garnishing Régence.
—Take one pint of hot Allemande sauce ([No. 210]), add to it six mushrooms cut into large pieces, two truffles, six quenelles, either of godiveau ([No. 221]) or chicken, according to the usage, pieces of sweetbreads, six cocks combs (if handy) and six kidneys. This garnishing must be poached, before adding it to the sauce, in half a glassful of white wine, seasoned with a little salt and pepper. Let cook for six minutes, and add it to the sauce; warm it for three minutes, and serve. The same for fish, omitting the sweetbreads.
236. Garnishing à la St. Nazaire.
—Add three tablespoonfuls of court bouillon ([No. 142]) to a small glassful of white wine, also one tablespoonful of cooked fine herbs ([No. 143]); add half a pint of Allemande sauce ([No. 210]), and a third of a pinch each of salt and pepper; pour the sauce over the fish to be served, and garnish with six very small, hot, stuffed clams ([No. 376]).
237. Garnishing à la Grecque—for roast or broiled meats.
—Cut off both ends from twelve medium-sized whole okras, parboil them in boiling water for five minutes, drain, and put them into any kind of meat-juice or Madeira sauce ([No. 185]). Cook for ten minutes, and serve arranged in clusters with a quarter of a pint of Béarnaise sauce ([No. 166]).
238. Godard Garnishing.
—Take six godiveau quenelles ([No. 221]), two truffles cut dice-shaped, six cocks’ combs, six cocks’ kidneys, and three mushrooms cut into square pieces; add half a glassful of Madeira wine, a pinch of salt, and half a pinch of pepper. Cook in a saucepan for five minutes, then add a pint of Madeira sauce ([No. 185]); boil again for five minutes, and serve when needed.
239. Tortue Garnishing.
—Boil three chicken livers in water for three minutes, let them get cool, then cut them up into three pieces each, put them in a saucepan with six stoned and blanched olives, two truffles, four mushrooms, and a throat sweetbread, all cut dice-shaped; add a glassful of Madeira wine, half a pinch of salt, and the third of a pinch each of pepper and nutmeg. Let cook for five minutes, then put in half a pint of Madeira sauce ([No. 185]), and cook for five minutes longer. Serve with six bread croûtons ([No. 133]) and six fried eggs ([No. 413]) as garnishing.
240. Garnishing Parisienne.
—Put in a saucepan half a glassful of Madeira wine, six sliced mushrooms, three sliced truffles, and let cook for four minutes. Add half a pint of Madeira sauce ([No. 185]), cook again for five minutes, then serve.
241. Garnishing Gourmet.
—Take a cooked artichoke bottom, either fresh or conserved, and cut it into six pieces; place them in a saucepan with four mushrooms, two truffles, and a piece of cooked palate, all cut dice-shaped; add half a glassful of Madeira wine, and let cook five minutes; pour in half a pint of Madeira sauce ([No. 185]), cook again for five minutes, and serve.
242. Garnishing Cêpes.
—Cut four cêpes into pieces; cook them in a sautoire for three minutes with a tablespoonful of olive oil, half a tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of pepper, and half a clove of crushed garlic. Moisten with half a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), and serve.
243. Bordelaise Garnishing, for tenderloins and steaks.
—Place a peeled shallot chopped very fine in a sautoire with half a glassful of red wine, and cook for five minutes; add half a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), a small pinch of red pepper, and cook for five minutes longer. Serve it poured over the fillets or steaks, placing on each one six slices of beef marrow, previously parboiled for one-half a minute.
244. Marrow Garnishing.
—Open two fine marrow bones by setting them upright on the table, the narrow part on top, and with a sharp blow of the hatchet cleaving them in two, striking on one side only. Remove the marrow, put it into fresh salted water, and let it remain in for one hour. Then take it up, drain, and cut it into slices. Heat half a pint of Madeira sauce ([No. 185]), add the pieces of marrow, and let it boil up once with a few drops of tarragon-vinegar. Serve with the slices of marrow on top.
245. Garnishing à la Patti.
—Wash well two ounces of rice; drain, dry, and then put it in a saucepan with a pint of good white broth ([No. 99]). Pound the wing of a cooked chicken in a mortar and add it to the rice; season with a tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of white pepper. Cook on a moderate fire for thirty minutes; strain through a fine sieve, return it to the saucepan with half an ounce of good butter and three tablespoonfuls of sweet cream, and heat slowly on the stove without boiling. Dress this garnishing in an artistic crown-shape around the hot serving dish; arrange the suprêmes in the centre, and decorate the garnishing with thin slices of truffles; with a light hair-brush drip a little meat-glaze ([No. 141]) over it and serve.
Suprêmes of partridges, quails, cotelettes of squabs, or sweetbreads à la Patti, are all to be served this way.
246. Garnishing Financière.
—Cut a blanched, throat sweetbread into dice-sized pieces, put it in a saucepan with two truffles, six mushrooms, twelve stoned olives, six godiveau quenelles ([No. 221]), and two blanched chicken livers cut in pieces. Moisten with half a glassful of sherry or Madeira wine, and season with half a pinch each of salt and pepper, and a quarter of a pinch of nutmeg; add a pint of Madeira sauce ([No. 185]), cook again for ten minutes, skim off the fat, and serve when required.
247. Garnishing Ecarlate.
—Cook in a saucepan half a pint of tomato sauce ([No. 205]) with half a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), and a little cooked, smoked beef-tongue, chopped very fine; let cook for six minutes, then serve.
248. Garnishing à la Stanley.
—Pour a pint of very hot Russian sauce ([No. 211]) upon the hot serving-dish. Lay the mignons filets, or any other meat, including broiled fillets, sirloin steaks, etc., on top, and garnish with six fried bananas cut in halves, and send to the table immediately.
249. Garnishing à la Montebello.
—Place a pint of tomato sauce ([No. 205]) in a saucepan; add a pint of Béarnaise sauce ([No. 166]) and three good-sized, nicely sliced truffles; heat well by means of the Bain-Marie, without boiling, and serve.
250. Garnishing Soubise.
—Cut up three medium-sized, white onions, and place them in a saucepan with an ounce of butter, half a cupful of white broth ([No. 99]), a tablespoonful of salt, and a small saltspoonful of white pepper. Cover the saucepan and cook for twenty minutes, stirring frequently. Add one pint of béchamel sauce ([No. 154]), and boil again for five minutes. Strain the sauce through a tammy, return it to the saucepan, season it a little more, if necessary, adding a little grated nutmeg and a little warm milk, in case it should be too thick; warm it well again, and serve.
251. Garnishing Milanaise.
—Cut into julienne-shaped pieces two medium-sized truffles, six mushrooms, and the same quantity of smoked, cooked tongue, and place them in a saucepan with a pint of cooked rice, half a pint of tomato sauce ([No. 205]), half a pint of Madeira sauce ([No. 185]), a tablespoonful of salt, very little pepper, and three tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, either Parmesan or Swiss. Cook for ten minutes and serve.
252. Garnishing Rouennaise.
—Cut three medium-sized turnips into six pieces, clove-of-garlic-shaped, pare them nicely and put them in a sautoire with one ounce of butter, sprinkling over them a little powdered sugar. Put the lid on tightly and cook in the oven for ten minutes, shaking it by the handle frequently. Moisten with a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]); add a pinch each of salt and pepper; cook again for twenty minutes, skim off the fat, and serve.
253. Garnishing Robinson.
—Cut the gall away carefully from twelve chicken livers, wash clean and wipe them well, and then fry them with an ounce of butter in a frying-pan. Season them with a tablespoonful of salt and two teaspoonfuls of pepper, and after cooking three minutes, put them in a saucepan, with a pint of Madeira sauce ([No. 185]); boil for five minutes and serve.
254. A Bouquet.
—how to prepare.—Take four branches of well-washed parsley-stalks—if the branches be small, take six—one branch of soup-celery, well washed; one blade of bay-leaf, one sprig of thyme, and two cloves, placed in the centre of the parsley, so as to prevent cloves, thyme, and bay-leaf from dropping out of the bouquet while cooking; fold it well, and tightly tie with a string, and use when required in various recipes.
A pinch of salt represents 205 grains, or a tablespoonful.
Half a pinch of pepper represents 38 grains, or a teaspoonful.
A third of a pinch of nutmeg represents 13 grains, or half a teaspoonful.