The Delmonico Cook Book: How to Buy Food, How to Cook It, and How to Serve It.

by Alexander Filippini

VEAL.

549. Blanquette of Veal.

—Cut into two-inch-square pieces two and a half pounds of breast of veal. Soak it in fresh water for one hour; drain it well, then lay it in a saucepan; cover with fresh water; boil, and be very careful to skim off all the scum. Add a well-garnished bouquet ([No. 254]), six small, well-peeled, sound, white onions, two good pinches of salt and a pinch of white pepper. Cook for forty minutes. Melt about an ounce and a half of butter in another saucepan, add to it three tablespoonfuls of flour, stir well for three minutes; moisten with a pint of broth from the veal; boil for five minutes. Set it on the side of the stove. Beat up in a bowl three egg yolks, with the juice of a medium-sized, sound lemon and a very little grated nutmeg. Take the preparation in the saucepan, gradually add it to the egg yolks, &c., briskly mix with a wooden spoon meanwhile until all added. Throw this over the veal, lightly toss the whole, but be careful not to allow to boil again; then serve. All blanquettes are prepared the same way, adding different garnishings.

550. Blanquette of Veal à la Reine.

—The same as for [No. 549], adding six chopped mushrooms, and twelve godiveau quenelles ([No. 221]) two minutes before serving.

551. Blanquette of Veal With Peas.

—The same as for [No. 549], adding one pint of cooked, green, or canned blanched peas two minutes before serving.

552. Blanquette of Veal With Nouilles.

—The same as for [No. 549], adding a quarter of a pound of cooked nouilles ([No. 1182]) around the serving-dish as a border.

553. Blanquette of Veal à l’Ancienne.

—The same as for [No. 549], adding one ounce of salt pork cut into small pieces, and cooked with the meat from the commencement, and six sliced mushrooms two minutes before serving.

554. Brisotin of Veal.

—Cut up six pieces of lean veal about a quarter of an inch thick, and of the length of the hand. Flatten them, and season with one pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper. Lard the centres, using a small larding needle, with strips of larding-pork. Lay any kind of forcemeat at hand on them, roll well, and tie with a string. Put them into a deep sautoire with a very little fat, one sliced carrot, and one medium-sized, sliced onion. Cover the whole with a piece of buttered paper; set it on the fire, and let it take a good golden color for about five minutes. Moisten with half a pint of white broth ([No. 99]), then put the saucepan in the oven, and cook slowly for twenty minutes, basting it occasionally, and serve.

Brisotins are all prepared the same way, adding different garnishings.

555. Brisotin of Veal à l’Ecarlate.

—The same as for [No. 554], adding half a pint of hot écarlate sauce ([No. 539]).

556. Brisotin of Veal, Nantaise.

—The same as for [No. 554], placing six stuffed lettuce-heads ([No. 953]) around the dish, and pouring one gill of hot Madeira sauce ([No. 185]) over it.

557. Calf’s Brains with Black Butter.

—Place three fine, fresh calf’s brains in cold water, and then peel off the skins. Wash again in cold water; neatly drain; put them in a sautoire and cover with fresh water. Add two pinches of salt, half a cupful of vinegar, one medium-sized, sliced carrot, one sprig of thyme, one bay-leaf, and twelve whole peppers. Boil for five minutes, drain well, and cut each brain in two. Dress them on a dish, and serve with a gill of very hot black butter ([No. 159]).

Calf’s brain is always prepared as above, adding any desired sauce.

558. Calf’s Brains à la Vinaigrette.

—Exactly the same as for [No. 557], serving on a folded napkin on a dish, garnishing with a few green parsley-leaves, and a gill of vinaigrette sauce ([No. 201]), separately.

559. Fried Calf’s Brains, Tartare Sauce.

—Proceed as in [No. 557], then dry the brains well in a napkin; bread them a à l’Anglaise ([No. 301]), and fry in hot grease for five minutes. Serve with half a pint of tartare sauce ([No. 207]), separately.

560. Veal Cutlets à la Pagasqui.

—Chop well two or three times in the machine two pounds of lean veal, from the hip if possible; place the meat in a bowl with two ounces of finely chopped, raw veal-suet. Season with one good pinch of salt, half a pinch of pepper, and the third of a pinch of nutmeg. Add half a cupful of good cream, one chopped shallot and two raw eggs. Mix well together. Shape six pieces like chops, sprinkle them with bread-crumbs, and fry in a stewpan with two ounces of clarified butter for four minutes on each side. Serve with a gill of any kind of sauce.

561. Veal Cutlets à la St. Cloud.

—Lard thoroughly six veal cutlets with two small truffles, cut julienne-shape, one ounce of cooked beef-tongue, and one ounce of larding-pork, both cut the same. Place them in a sautoire with a pinch of salt, one sliced carrot, and one sliced onion, and let them brown for ten minutes, being careful to keep the lid on the pan. Moisten with half a pint of broth, and put them in the oven to finish cooking for at least fifteen minutes. Serve with a hot salpicon sauce, the chicken cut in large pieces ([No. 256]), pouring the sauce on the dish, and lay the chops on top.

562. Veal Cutlets à la Maréchale.

—Pare nicely six veal cutlets; season them with a tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper. Cook in a sautoire with two ounces of butter for five minutes on each side. Moisten with half a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), adding four sliced mushrooms, twelve small godiveau quenelles ([No. 221]), and three chicken livers, blanched and cut into pieces. Cook for five minutes longer, and serve with six croûtons ([No. 133]).

563. Veal Cutlets à la Milanaise.

—Pare nicely and season well with a tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper six veal cutlets. Dip them in beaten egg, then in grated Parmesan cheese, and finally in fresh bread-crumbs. Flatten them, and cook them in a sautoire with six ounces of clarified butter for five minutes on each side, and serve with half a pint of garnishing Milanaise ([No. 251]).

To prepare breaded veal cutlets with tomato sauce, bread six cutlets as for the above, omit the cheese, cook them as described, and serve with half a pint of tomato sauce ([No. 205]).

564. Broiled Veal Cutlets.

—Cut six even veal cutlets from a fine piece of the loin of white veal, pare them and flatten them slightly; lay them on a dish, and season with a tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of pepper, and one tablespoonful of sweet oil. Turn the cutlets around several times; then put them on the broiler to broil for eight minutes on each side. Remove them from the fire; arrange them on a hot dish, spread a little maître d’hôtel ([No. 145]) over them, and send to the table.

565. Veal Cutlets à la Philadelphia.

—Pare and brown in a sautoire with two ounces of butter six veal cutlets. Season them with a pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper, turning them carefully at times. Add two onions cut in thick slices, and place the lid on the sautoire. Stir the onions occasionally, and when of a golden brown color, moisten with half a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]). Cook for fifteen minutes, and serve with one teaspoonful of chopped parsley.

566. Veal Cutlets en Papillotes.

—Pare nicely six veal cutlets; put them in a sautoire with one ounce of butter, and season with a tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper. Add half a chopped onion, and brown slightly. Cook for eight minutes with four finely chopped mushrooms, moistening with a gill of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]). Cook for four minutes longer. Then take out the cutlets, drain them, and put them to cool. Add to the gravy a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and two tablespoonfuls of fresh bread-crumbs. Now take six pieces of oiled white paper cut heart-shaped, put a thin slice of cooked ham on one side of the paper; then lay on the ham a little of the stock, and on top of it a cutlet, and another layer of the stock, and over all a thin slice of cooked ham. Cover with the second part of the paper, close it by folding the two edges firmly together, and proceed the same with the other cutlets. Bake for a short time (at most five minutes) in the oven, rather slowly, and then serve.

567. Curry of Veal à l’Indienne.

—Cut into pieces and blanch in salted water two pounds of any kind of lean, raw veal. Drain and wash them well. Put the pieces into a saucepan, and cover them with warm water; seasoning with two pinches of salt and one pinch of pepper, adding also a bouquet ([No. 254]), and six small whole onions. Cook for twenty-five minutes. Then make a gill of roux blanc ([No. 135]), in a saucepan, moistening it with the liquor from the veal; stir it well, and then add a tablespoonful of diluted curry-powder and three raw egg yolks, beating up as they are put in. Dress the veal on a hot dish; immediately strain the roux over it (as it must not cook again). Neatly arrange half a pint of hot, plain, boiled rice all around the dish, then serve.

568. Escalops of Veal, plain.

—Pare and cut two pounds of veal (from the hip is preferable) into six even steak-form slices. Season with one pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper. Then brown them in a sautoire on a very hot range, with one ounce of butter, for five minutes on each side; dress on a hot dish, and serve with any kind of sauce or garnishing desired.

569. Escalops of Veal à la Duxelle.

—Prepare six escalops as for [No. 568], adding a chopped shallot, six mushrooms shred as finely as possible, one crushed clove of garlic, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Moisten with a gill of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), and half a glassful of white wine. Cook for five minutes longer, pour them on a hot dish, place the escalops over, and then serve.

570. Escalops of Veal with Stuffed Peppers.

—Proceed exactly as for [No. 568], adding the juice of half a medium-sized, sound lemon, and a gill of hot Madeira sauce ([No. 185]). Cook for three minutes longer, and decorate the dish with six stuffed green-peppers ([No. 975]) three minutes before serving.

571. Escalops of Veal à la Chicorée.

—-Prepare and proceed precisely the same as for [No. 568]. Cook for eight minutes. Then dress half a pint of chicorée au jus ([No. 934]) on the hot dish, and send to the table.

572. Escalops of Veal à l’Italienne.

—The same as for [No. 568], adding one medium-sized, chopped onion, six chopped mushrooms, one teaspoonful of parsley, and a crushed clove of garlic. Moisten with half a glassful of white wine, and cook for five minutes with a gill of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), and serve.

573. Escalops of Veal à la Provençale.

—Prepare as for [No. 568], replacing the butter by the same quantity of oil. Season well, and when browned on both sides add one shallot or a finely chopped onion. Let them color, and then moisten with a gill of broth. Add two tablespoonfuls of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), three chopped cêpes, two crushed cloves of garlic, and a teaspoonful of parsley. Boil once, and then serve with six croûtons of fried bread ([No. 133]).

574. Escalops of Sweetbreads à la Richelieu.

—Take four blanched sweetbreads ([No. 601]); cut them into slices, and stew them in a saucepan, with an ounce of butter and half a glassful of white wine. Season with a tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of pepper, and half a teaspoonful of nutmeg. Cook for six minutes, then moisten with a gill of thick Allemande sauce ([No. 210]), and add two sliced truffles and four sliced mushrooms. Fill six scallop-shells with the preparation; sprinkle the tops with fresh bread-crumbs; pour a few drops of clarified butter over all, and brown slightly in the oven for five minutes. Serve on a dish with a folded napkin.

575. Minced Veal à la Catalan.

—Mince two pounds of lean veal, and brown it in a saucepan with three tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, one onion cut in quarters, and half a minced green-pepper. When a fine color, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and mix thoroughly. Moisten with one pint of white broth ([No. 99]), and season with a heaped tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of pepper; stir briskly, and add a bouquet ([No. 254]), three cloves of crushed garlic, and a gill of tomato sauce ([No. 205]). Cook well for twenty-five minutes; then serve, sprinkling a little chopped parsley over it.

576. Minced Veal à la Biscaënne.

—Proceed as for [No. 575], adding one pint of potatoes Parisiennes ([No. 986]), and two cut-up tomatoes, fifteen minutes before serving.

577. Fricandeau with Sorrel.

—Cut a slice of three pounds from a leg of veal; remove the sinews, and lard the surface with a medium-sized larding needle. Place it in a sautoire in which there are already pieces of pork-skin, one sliced onion, one sliced carrot, and a bouquet ([No. 254]). Season with a tablespoonful of salt, cover with a buttered paper, and let it color slightly for five minutes on the stove. Then moisten with half a pint of white broth ([No. 99]), and cook one hour, basting it occasionally. Serve with half a pint of purée of sorrel ([No. 974]) on the dish, placing the veal on top.

All fricandeaus are prepared in the same way.

578. Fricandeau with Spinach.

—The same as for [No. 577], adding half a pint of hot spinach au gras ([No. 943]) instead of the sorrel.

579. Fricandeau à la Morlaisienne.

—The same as for [No. 577], serving it with a gill of hot Madeira sauce ([No. 185]), and garnishing with six small stuffed cabbages around the dish ([No. 919]).

580. Calf’s Liver Stewed à l’Italienne.

—Cut two pounds of fresh calf’s liver into small pieces. Put them with one ounce of clarified butter into a pan on the hot range, with one peeled and finely chopped, sound onion, and a clove of crushed garlic. Season with one pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper. Cook well for five minutes, shuffling the pan well meanwhile, then moisten with half a glassful of white wine and a gill of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]). Add six chopped mushrooms, and cook once more for three minutes. Serve with a teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley.

581. Calf’s Liver Sauté à la Provençale.

—Proceed as for [No. 580], adding two crushed cloves of garlic. Squeeze in the juice of half a lemon. Serve with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley.

582. Calf’s Liver à l’Alsacienne.

—Cut two pounds of calf’s liver into square pieces, and put them in a sautoire with one ounce of clarified butter. Season with a tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper, and add two medium-sized, sliced onions. When well stewed for six minutes, pour in a teaspoonful of vinegar, and two tablespoonfuls of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), and let it just come to a boil. Serve with a little chopped parsley.

583. Calf’s Liver Braised à la Bourgeoise.

—Place a small calf’s liver, larded thoroughly with pieces of larding pork, previously seasoned with a pinch of chopped parsley and a hashed clove of garlic, in a saucepan on the fire, with two tablespoonfuls of clarified butter, one sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves, half a sliced carrot, and half a sliced onion. Turn the liver over and moisten it with one gill of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), and a gill of white broth ([No. 99]). Season with a pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper, and cook for forty-five minutes. Strain the sauce into another saucepan (meanwhile keeping the liver in a warm place), adding to the gravy two medium-sized, sound, well-scraped, sliced, raw carrots, and two ounces of salt pork cut into shreds. Stew well together for twenty-five minutes, and pour the garnishing over the liver just before serving, decorating with six small onions around the dish.

584. Calf’s Liver Broiled with Bacon.

—Take a nice, tender, fresh calf’s liver weighing a pound and a half; pare and trim off the hard portions; cut it into six equal-sized slices, and put them on a dish. Season with a tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of pepper, and one tablespoonful of sweet oil; mix well together. Broil for four minutes on each side. Arrange the slices on a hot serving-dish, and decorate with six thin and crisp slices of broiled bacon ([No. 754]). Spread a gill of maître d’hôtel butter ([No. 145]) over, and serve very hot.

585. Loin of Veal, Roasted.

—Saw from a fine, white, fresh, and fat loin of veal with the kidney, the spine, and whatever hip-bone remains. Season the loin with a tablespoonful and a half of salt, and one heaped teaspoonful of pepper and roll the flank part neatly over the kidney, and tie it with a string.

Have ready a lightly buttered roasting-pan. Lay in it the loin; pour in half a glassful of water, and distribute a few bits of butter over the meat. Then cover its entire length with a piece of well-buttered paper. Place the pan in a moderate oven, and roast it for one hour and three-quarters, meanwhile basting it frequently with its own gravy. Take it out of the oven, untie it, and place it on a hot serving-dish. Add three tablespoonfuls of broth to the gravy in the pan, skim off the fat and reduce it to the consistency of a demi-glace sauce; then strain it through a colander, either over the roast or into a separate sauce-bowl, and send it to the table immediately.

Loin of lamb, roasted, is to be prepared exactly as above described, letting it cook fifty minutes instead of an hour and three-quarters.

Loin of mutton is also to be roasted and served in the same way, but one hour’s cooking will be sufficient.

586. Grenadins of Veal, Purée of Peas.

—Cut into six pieces two pounds of lean veal from off the leg; extract the sinews, and lard the veal nicely on one side, using a needle for the purpose. Lay the pieces in a sautoire, with one carrot, one onion, and some scraps of pork, and let them brown together for six minutes. Season with a tablespoonful of salt, and moisten with a gill of white broth ([No. 99]). Put the sautoire into the oven, covering it with a piece of buttered paper. After thirty minutes, or when of a good color, remove, and serve with half a pint of hot purée of peas ([No. 49]) on the dish, the grenadins on top, and the gravy strained over all.

587. Grenadins of Veal à la Chipolata.

—The same as for [No. 586], only adding half a pint of hot chipolata garnishing ([No. 232]) instead of the peas.

588. Grenadins of Veal à la Sevigné.

—The same as for [No. 586], only decorating the dish with six bouchées Sevigné, made by preparing six small bouchées ([No. 270]), and filling them with very finely chopped spinach au jus (No 943). Lay the covers on and serve very hot without any other garnishing.

589. Grenadins of Veal à l’Africaine.

—Prepare the same as for [No. 586], serving very hot, with three small, stuffed egg-plants ([No. 909]), and eighteen medium-sized, cooked gumbos ([No. 1030]).

590. Braised Noix of Veal à la Providence.

—Lard thoroughly a knuckle of veal of three pounds, braise it nicely in a saucepan with an ounce of fresh salt pork, one tablespoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful of pepper. Cook for fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally, and moistening with half a pint of white broth ([No. 99]), and half a pint of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151].) Add one pint of raw Jardinière ([No. 1033]) and a cupful of flageolets. Cook for forty-five minutes all together. Transfer the knuckle to a hot dish, pour the garnishing over, and serve.

591. Braised Noix of Veal en Daube.

—Proceed the same as for braised beef en Daube ([No. 483]).

592. Panpiette of Veal à la Faubonne.

—Cut two pounds of veal off the leg into six thin slices. Pare them to the size of the hand, and season with a tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper. Fill them with any kind of forcemeat, roll, and tie together with string. Put them in a sautoire with small scraps of pork, adding half a sliced carrot and half a sliced onion. Cover with a barde of larding pork on top, and brown for ten minutes. Moisten with a gill of white broth ([No. 99]); cover with buttered paper, and put in the oven to finish cooking for twenty-five minutes. Serve, with half a pint of purée of lentils ([No. 46]), mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley.

593. Panpiette of Veal à l’Ecarlate.

—The same as for [No. 592], pouring half a pint of hot Ecarlate sauce ([No. 247]) over the panpiettes.

594. Panpiette of Veal, Purée of Chestnuts.

—The same as for [No. 592], adding half a pint of hot purée of chestnuts ([No. 131]).

595. Panpiette of Veal, Sauce Duxelle.

—The same as for [No. 592], putting half a pint of hot Duxelle sauce ([No. 189]) on the dish, and arranging the panpiettes over it.

596. Breast of Veal à la Milanaise.

—Bone a breast of veal of two and a half pounds; season with one tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper. Stuff it in the usual way with forcemeat ([No. 229]). Roll and tie it, making a few incisions in the skin, and put it in a saucepan, with one sliced carrot and one sliced onion. Braise it for one hour and a half in the oven, basting it occasionally with its own gravy. Serve with half a pint of hot Milanaise garnishing ([No. 251]) on the dish, placing the meat on top, and straining the gravy over it.

597. Calf’s Feet, Naturel.

—Split each of three calf’s feet in two; remove the large bone, and put them in fresh water for one hour. Wash thoroughly, drain, and place them in a saucepan, with two tablespoonfuls of flour and three quarts of cold water. Stir well; add a gill of vinegar, one onion, one carrot (all cut in shreds), twelve whole peppers, a handful of salt, and a bouquet ([No. 254]), and cook briskly for one hour and a half. Drain well, and serve with any kind of sauce required.

598. Calf’s Feet à la Poulette.

—The same as for [No. 597], adding half a pint of hot poulette sauce, made by putting one pint of hot Allemande sauce ([No. 210]) into a saucepan, with one ounce of fresh butter, adding the juice of half a medium-sized lemon, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Heat well on the hot stove until thoroughly melted and mixed, but do not let it boil. Keep the sauce warm, and serve for all sauce poulettes.

599. Calf’s Feet, Sauce Piquante.

—Same as for [No. 597], adding half a pint of hot piquante sauce ([No. 203]).

600. Calf’s Feet, Sauce Remoulade.

—Same as for [No. 597], adding half a pint of hot Remoulade sauce ([No. 209]).

601. How to Blanch Sweetbreads.

—Clean and neatly trim three pairs of fine sweetbreads. Soak them for three hours in three different fresh waters, one hour in each water, with one pinch of salt in each water. Drain, place in cold water, and blanch them until they come to a boil. Then drain, and freshen them in cold water. Cover with a napkin, lay them aside in a cool place, and they will now be ready for general use. When they are to be used in molds, they should be gently pressed down with a pound weight.

602. Sweetbreads, Braised.

—Take six blanched heart-sweetbreads as above, lard the upper parts slightly, and put them in a sautoire with some slices of pork-skin. Add half a sliced carrot, half a sliced onion, and a bouquet ([No. 254]). Sprinkle over them a pinch of salt, and cover them with a buttered paper. Reduce to a golden color, and moisten with half a pint of strong white broth ([No. 99]). Cook it in the oven for forty minutes, basting occasionally with the gravy, lifting the buttered paper, and replacing it each time in the same position. The sweetbreads will now be ready to serve with any kind of sauce or garnishing desired. Always place the sauce or garnishing on a hot serving-dish, and lay the sweetbreads over it, then send to the table.

603. Sweetbreads Braised à la Financière.

—Prepare six sweetbreads, as in [No. 602], and serve with half a pint of hot Financière sauce ([No. 246]).

604. Sweetbreads Braised with Sorrel.

—The same as for [No. 602], adding half a pint of hot purée of sorrel ([No. 974]).

605. Sweetbreads Braised au Salpicon.

—The same as for [No. 602], adding half a pint of hot salpicon ([No. 256]).

606. Sweetbreads à la Soubise.

—The same as for [No. 602], adding half a pint of hot soubise ([No. 250]).

607. Sweetbreads Braised, with Spinach.

—The same as for [No. 602], adding half a pint of hot spinach ([No. 943]).

608. Sweetbreads à la Sauce Duxelle.

—The same as for [No. 602], adding half a pint of hot duxelle sauce ([No. 189]).

609. Sweetbreads Braised, with Mushroom Sauce.

—The same as for [No. 602], adding half a pint of hot mushroom sauce ([No. 230]).

610. Sweetbreads Braised à la Sauce Béarnaise.

—The same as for [No. 602], adding half a pint of hot Béarnaise sauce ([No. 166]).

611. Sweetbreads Braised aux Cêpes.

—The same as for [No. 602], adding half a pint of hot cêpes.

612. Sweetbreads Braised aux Gourmets.

—The same as for [No. 602], adding half a pint of hot gourmet garnishing ([No. 241]).

613. Sweetbreads Braised à la Parisienne.

—The same as for [No. 602], adding half a pint of hot Parisienne garnishing ([No. 240]).

614. Sweetbreads Braised à la Godard.

—The same as for [No. 602], adding half a pint of hot Godard garnishing ([No. 238]).

615. Sweetbreads Braised à la Montglas.

—Place six braised sweetbreads, prepared as for [No. 602], in six small, buttered paper-boxes, having cooked fine herbs ([No. 143]) strewn around the bottom. Heat in the oven for five minutes; then pour one tablespoonful of hot montglas sauce ([No. 213]) over each. Serve on a dish with a folded napkin.

616. Stewed Sweetbreads à la Catalan.

—Cut four blanched sweetbreads ([No. 601]) into slices; put them in a sautoire with half a gill of sweet oil, one tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of pepper, two well-hashed shallots, and half a sliced green pepper. Reduce to a good golden color for about six minutes, and add two peeled tomatoes cut into pieces, one gill of Espagnole sauce ([No. 151]), and a crushed clove of garlic. Cook for ten minutes; arrange on a hot dish, and serve.

617. Sweetbreads Broiled à la Colbert.

—Cut in two each of three fine blanched sweetbreads as in [No. 601]. Season them with one pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper, and pour one tablespoonful of sweet oil over them; mix them in well, and then broil them on a brisk fire for five minutes on each side. Dress on a hot dish, and serve with half a pint of hot Colbert sauce ([No. 190]).

618. Sweetbreads Braised à la Pompadour.

—Braise the sweetbreads exactly as for [No. 602]. Serve with half a pint of hot Béarnaise sauce ([No. 166]), two truffles cut in small square pieces; arrange six artichoke-bottoms on the sauce, place a sweetbread on each artichoke, with a thin slice of truffle on top of each, and serve.

619. Sweetbread Croquettes, Périgueux Sauce.

—Prepare six sweetbread croquettes ([No. 276]), and serve them on a dish with a folded napkin. Serve half a pint of Périgueux sauce ([No. 191]), separate.

620. Sweetbread Croquettes with Peas.

—The same as for [No. 619], adding half a pint of cooked peas, with a gill of Madeira sauce ([No. 185]), cooked together for two minutes. Pour it on the dish; place the croquettes over it, and serve.

621. Coquilles of Sweetbreads à la Dreux.

—Cut four blanched sweetbreads ([No. 601]) into small slices, and stew them in a saucepan with half an ounce of good butter, half a glassful of white wine, and three tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor. Reduce them for ten minutes, then add a gill of velouté sauce ([No. 152]), six minced mushrooms, and two truffles cut the same. Season with half a tablespoonful of salt, a scant teaspoonful of pepper, and half a teaspoonful of nutmeg, and finish by adding two tablespoonfuls of good cream, or half an ounce of good butter. Fill six silver table-shells with this; sprinkle them with fresh bread-crumbs; pour a few drops of clarified butter over them, and put them in the baking oven. Brown slightly for six minutes longer, and serve on a hot dish with a folded napkin.

622. Coquilles of Sweetbreads à la Cardinal.

—The same as for [No. 621], but instead of truffles use one ounce of smoked beef-tongue, and the same quantity of tomato sauce ([No. 205]), instead of the cream.

623. Coquilles of Sweetbreads à la Reine.

—Cut four blanched sweetbreads ([No. 601]) in slices, and fry them in half an ounce of butter, half a glassful of white wine, and three tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor. Season with half a tablespoonful of salt, a scant teaspoonful of pepper, and half a teaspoonful of nutmeg. Reduce for ten minutes, and moisten with one gill of Allemande sauce ([No. 210]), adding six sliced mushrooms, two sliced truffles, and twelve small quenelles of godiveau ([No. 221]). Finish the same as for [No. 621].

624. Veal Stew, Marengo.

—Cut three pounds of lean veal into pieces, and reduce them in a stewpan with one gill of oil, a cut-up onion or two shallots, and two ounces of salt pork, also cut up. Toss them occasionally, and when well browned after ten minutes, strew in two tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring well again. Moisten with one quart of white broth ([No. 99]), and one gill of tomato sauce ([No. 205]); season with a good tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper, adding a crushed clove of garlic, and a bouquet ([No. 254]). Cook for forty minutes, and serve with six croûtons ([No. 133]) around the dish, and a little chopped parsley sprinkled over it.

625. Veal Stew à la Provençale.

—Cut three pounds of lean veal from the breast or shoulder into pieces, and place them in a stewpan with one ounce of butter, two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, and one chopped onion. Cook them for ten minutes, stirring occasionally; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir again, and moisten with one quart of white broth ([No. 99]). Season with a heaped tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper, and add six minced mushrooms, three crushed cloves of garlic, and a bouquet ([No. 254]). Cook for forty minutes, and serve on a hot dish, sprinkling a little chopped parsley over it.

626. Veal Stew à la Grecque.

—Place two pounds of lean veal cut in pieces in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter and one cut-up onion, and reduce for ten minutes, adding two tablespoonfuls of flour. Moisten with one quart of white broth ([No. 99]), and one gill of tomato sauce ([No. 205]). Add a heaped tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of pepper, and half a teaspoonful of nutmeg, a bouquet ([No. 254]), three white roots of table-celery, cut in two, and eighteen raw okras, pared whole. Cook for thirty minutes, and serve with the dish nicely decorated with the garnishing.

627. Veal, Stewed à la Portugaise.

—The same as for [No. 626], substituting three stuffed tomatoes ([No. 987]), or plain, roasted tomatoes, and three timbales of cooked rice ([No. 501]) for the other garnishing.

628. Veal, Stewed à la Solferino.

—Reduce three pounds of pieces of veal cut from the breast or shoulder, in one ounce of butter, with six small onions. When cooked for ten minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of flour. Moisten with one quart of white broth ([No. 99]), and one gill of tomato sauce ([No. 205]), seasoning with one heaped tablespoonful of salt, and one teaspoonful of pepper. Stir well together until it reaches boiling-point; then add two carrots, and two turnips cut out with a vegetable-scoop, and a bouquet ([No. 254]). Cook again for forty minutes, and serve.

Any kind of vegetables in season can be added.

629. Veal, Stewed à la Bourgeoise.

—Reduce in one ounce of butter three pounds of lean veal cut in pieces, with six small onions. After cooking ten minutes add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and moisten with one quart of white broth ([No. 99]). Stir well, and season with one heaped tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, and half a glassful of red wine. Add two carrots cut in square pieces, one ounce of salt pork also cut in pieces, and a bouquet ([No. 254]). Cook for forty minutes longer, remove the bouquet, and serve.

630. Veal, Stewed with Oyster-plant.

—The same as for [No. 629], substituting for the garnishing one bunch of well-cleaned, raw oyster-plant cut into pieces, forty minutes before serving.

631. Veal, Stewed with Peas.

—The same as for [No. 629], substituting one pint of fresh peas for the oyster-plant thirty minutes before serving. Should green peas be out of season, use one pint of canned peas five minutes before serving.

632. Veal, Stewed à la Chasseur.

—The same as for [No. 629], substituting for the garnishing twelve minced mushrooms, sixteen quenelles de godiveau ([No. 221]), and one clove of garlic three minutes before serving. Serve with six croûtons ([No. 133]) around the dish.

633. Tendron of Veal à la Nantaise.

—Pare nicely three pounds of the breast of veal; make a few incisions on the top, and tie it firmly together. Lay it in a deep sautoire with a piece of pork-skin cut up, a carrot, and a cut-up onion. Cover with a buttered paper, and when it begins to color after five minutes, moisten it slightly with a pint of water or broth. Baste as frequently as possible, and let it cook one hour. Then put it on a dish, strain the sauce over it, garnish with six stuffed lettuce-heads ([No. 953]). Decorate with a tablespoonful of croûtons all around the dish, and serve.

634. Tendron of Veal with Sorrel.

—The same as for [No. 633], substituting one pint of cooked, hot sorrel ([No. 974]) on the dish, for the other garnishing.

635. Tendron of Veal à la Morlaisienne.

—The same as for [No. 633], substituting six small stuffed cabbages ([No. 919]) for the other garnishing.

636. Tendron of Veal à la Chipolata.

—The same as for [No. 633], pouring one pint of hot chipolata ([No. 232]) on the dish, and placing the tendron on top.

637. Calf’s Head, plain.

—Plunge a fine, fresh, white calf’s head into hot water for one minute, lift it up, sharply rub it all over with a coarse towel, so as to remove all the remaining hairs. Carefully cut the flesh, starting from the centre of the head, right down to the nostrils. Then, with a very keen knife, bone it from the top to the base on both sides. Place in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of flour, one gill of vinegar, one medium-sized, well-cleaned, sliced carrot, one sound peeled onion, eighteen whole peppers, and two pinches of salt. Pour in very gradually two quarts of cold water—briskly stirring meanwhile until all added. Cut up half of the head into six equal pieces; add them to the broth, as also the other whole half. Let all cook together on a moderate fire for one hour and a half. Lift up the pieces and half the head, place the six pieces on a dry napkin. Have ready a hot dish with a folded napkin over it, neatly dress the six pieces on it, decorate with parsley-greens, and serve with any desired sauce. Place the remaining whole half in a stone jar, strain the broth over it, and keep in a cool place for any purpose required.

For calf’s brains, see [No. 557].

638. Calf’s Head à la Cavour.

—Take half a boiled calf’s head as for [No. 637]. Before serving pour a gill of hot tomato sauce ([No. 205]) over it, and surround it with twenty-four stoned and blanched olives, arranged in clusters, and six sippets of fried bread ([No. 133]).

639. Calf’s Head à la Poulette.

—The same as for [No. 637], pouring half a pint of hot poulette sauce ([No. 598]) over it, and sprinkling it with half a tablespoonful of parsley.

640. Calf’s Head à la Vinaigrette.

—The same as for [No. 637], laying a folded napkin on the dish, and arranging thereon the half of the head. Serve with parsley-leaves around the dish, and one pint of vinaigrette ([No. 201]), separately.

641. Calf’s Head en Tortue.

—Prepare and cut into six equal pieces, as for [No. 637], half a calf’s head. Place them on a hot dish, pour over it half a pint of hot tortue garnishing ([No. 239]), decorate with three pieces of heart-shaped, fried croûtons ([No. 133]), a little fried parsley, and send to the table very hot.

A pinch of salt represents 205 grains, or a tablespoonful.

Half a pinch of pepper represents 38 grains, or a teaspoonful.

A third of a pinch of nutmeg represents 13 grains, or half a teaspoonful.

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