RECAPITULATION OF GENERAL RULES.
At all times have the feathers, which are to be dyed, scoured well, that is, washed clean from all externally adhering impurities, fat, etc.; naturally colored feathers bleached for all light and medium shades to be dyed upon them, and rinsed perfectly clean from the scouring or bleaching bath, first in two or three warm waters and then in cold water.
On taking the feathers from any bath, always squeeze the liquid out first by drawing the feathers through the hand closed upon them, then by placing them straight between several laps of clean dry muslin and repeatedly passing the hand with quite a smart pressure over it. Never transfer the feathers, in any case, from one bath to another in a wet, but in a moist condition, or nearly dry.
Never allow the feathers to become dry in the course of operations. If it is necessary to interrupt work, or to put feathers to one side for further treatment, dry them properly by first passing them through a bath of raw starch, in order to have the flues at all times as well opened as possible.
In no case let the temperature of a bath, in which feathers are treated, rise to actual boiling, although for some dyestuffs a temperature near the boiling point is required to make them dye up, to become level or to fix them.
In every instance, where an acid or acid salt is employed, either in a separate mordanting or fixing bath, or as a component of the dyebath, rinse well before drying.
When sulphuric acid is used in the composition of a bath, add only so much of it as to give the water a very slight, scarcely perceptible acid taste.
Although some artificial dyestuffs dye up without an addition of acid to the dye bath (basic dyestuffs), the addition of sulphuric acid, in a very small quantity, to the dye-bath is advantageous, rendering the colors brighter and also faster.
When bisulphate of soda is employed, it is not necessary to also add sulphuric acid to the dye-bath; if it is added, however, it must only be in a very small quantity; careful rinsing in several warm and cold waters after dyeing is required.
When alum alone is used without any other addition as mordant, sulphuric acid may be added, but only in the proportion of one tenth or, at the most, up to one fifth of the weight of alum, and careful rinsing in several warm and cold waters is the more indispensably required the more acid has been employed.
All solutions of dyestuffs, as well as of chemicals, ought to be carefully filtered, and decoctions of woods, etc., strained before adding them to the bath; never add dyestuffs, drugs or chemicals in substance to any bath, in order to prevent solid particles from settling upon the feathers.
Never add all the dyestuff probably required or prescribed by a recipe to the dye-bath at one time, but in several small quantities, each time after taking up the feathers, stir the bath after making the addition, re-enter the feathers and watch the progress of the dyeing carefully; when approaching the desired shade, add the dyestuff very cautiously, by drops if necessary, particularly with mixed colors, such as modes.
Sample in proper time, and take not a whole feather for it, but pull off two or three fibres from the lower part of a feather, dry them quickly by squeezing between dry muslin, match, correct the bath and finish dyeing.
While drying keep the feathers as much as possible in constant motion, shake and beat them.
Do not interrupt operations, if it can be avoided, but do the work rapidly and continuously, without pausing.
Keep every utensil scrupulously clean.
THE END.
CONTENTS.
| PAGE. | |
| Preface | [i] |
| Growth of the Ostrich Feather Trade, etc. | [1] |
| The Bird, Its Plumage and Habits | [3] |
| Sketch of Dyestuffs, etc. | [5] |
| Logwood | [5] |
| Turmeric | [7] |
| Bichromate of Potash | [7] |
| Archil | [8] |
| Safranine | [10] |
| Oxalic Acid | [11] |
| Indigo Blue | [11] |
| Sulphuric Acid | [12] |
| Copperas | [13] |
| Bismarck Brown | [14] |
| Concentrated Cotton Blue | [14] |
| Roceline | [15] |
| Recipes for Dyeing | [16] |
| Hints about the Dye-house | [85] |
| Miscellaneous Information | [88] |
| Washing Raw Stock | [91] |
| Shading | [94] |
| Paring, Steaming and Curling | [95] |
| Note of the Publisher | [99] |
INDEX TO RECIPES.
| PAGE. | |
| B. | |
| BEIGE | [62] |
| BLACK | [53] |
| BLEACHING LIGHT COLORS WHITE | [18] |
| BLEACHING NATURAL GRAYS OR BLACKS WHITE | [82] |
| BLUE, ARMY | [59] |
| BLUE, ELECTRIC | [65] |
| BLUE, GENDARME | [57] |
| BLUE, LIGHT | [21] |
| BLUE, MEDIUM | [67] |
| BLUE, NAVY | [31] |
| BRONZE | [74] |
| BROWN, BISMARCK | [28] |
| BROWN, MEDIUM | [66] |
| BROWN, OLIVE | [81] |
| BROWN, SEAL | [29] |
| C. | |
| CARDINAL | [33] |
| CHOCOLATE | [75] |
| COFFEE | [79] |
| CORN | [64] |
| CREAM | [25] |
| D. | |
| DRAB, FELT | [46] |
| DRAB, PLAIN | [78] |
| E. | |
| ECRU | [23] |
| G. | |
| GARNET | [40] |
| GRAY, SILVER | [26] |
| GREEN, BOTTLE | [43] |
| GREEN, MEDIUM | [61] |
| GREEN, PEA | [80] |
| L. | |
| LAVENDER | [38] |
| LEMON | [52] |
| LILAC | [56] |
| M. | |
| MAGENTA | [69] |
| MAROON | [51] |
| MOSS | [76] |
| O. | |
| OLD-GOLD | [39] |
| OLIVE | [36] |
| ORANGE | [48] |
| P. | |
| PINK, LIGHT | [20] |
| PLUM | [35] |
| PURPLE | [60] |
| S. | |
| SALMON | [71] |
| SCARLET | [50] |
| SEA-FOAM | [70] |
| SLATE | [47] |
| STEEL | [45] |
| STONE | [73] |
| STRAWBERRY, CRUSHED | [34] |
| T. | |
| TERRA COTTA | [42] |
| TRILEUL | [58] |
| W. | |
| WHITE | [16] |
INDEX TO SAMPLES.
| PAGE. | |
| B. | |
| BEIGE | [34a] |
| BLACK | [70a] |
| BLUE, ARMY | [46a] |
| BLUE, ELECTRIC | [70a] |
| BLUE, GENDARME | [40a] |
| BLUE, LIGHT | [26a] |
| BLUE, MEDIUM | [24a] |
| BLUE, NAVY | [64a] |
| BRONZE | [64a] |
| BROWN, BISMARCK | [76a] |
| BROWN, MEDIUM | [82a] |
| BROWN, OLIVE | [52a] |
| BROWN, SEAL | [76a] |
| C. | |
| CARDINAL | [82a] |
| CHOCOLATE | [34a] |
| COFFEE | [52a] |
| CORN | [34a] |
| CREAM | [26a] |
| D. | |
| DRAB, FELT | [40a] |
| DRAB, PLAIN | [58a] |
| E. | |
| ECRU | [30a] |
| G. | |
| GARNET | [40a] |
| GRAY, SILVER | [30a] |
| GREEN, BOTTLE | [52a] |
| GREEN, MEDIUM | [82a] |
| GREEN, PEA | [64a] |
| L. | |
| LAVENDER | [26a] |
| LEMON | [20a] |
| LILAC | [20a] |
| M. | |
| MAGENTA | [64a] |
| MAROON | [46a] |
| MOSS | [70a] |
| O. | |
| OLD-GOLD | [82a] |
| OLIVE | [58a] |
| ORANGE | [76a] |
| P. | |
| PINK, LIGHT | [20a] |
| PLUM | [58a] |
| PURPLE | [46a] |
| S. | |
| SALMON | [26a] |
| SCARLET | [70a] |
| SEA-FOAM | [30a] |
| SLATE | [40a] |
| STEEL | [46a] |
| STONE | [52a] |
| STRAWBERRY, CRUSHED | [76a] |
| T. | |
| TERRA COTTA | [58a] |
| TRILEUL | [30a] |
| W. | |
| WHITE | [20a] |
CONTENTS OF APPENDIX.
| PAGE. | |
| General Remarks | [103] |
| Utensils | [107] |
| Preparation of Feathers | [107] |
| Cleaning, Bleaching, etc. | [109] |
| Drying or Starching | [111] |
| Bleaching or Decolorizing Natural Grays | [112] |
| Peroxyd of Hydrogen | [114] |
| Light Blue | [115] |
| Navy Blue | [117] |
| Gendarme Blue | [119] |
| Plum or Prune | [119] |
| Light Yellow | [121] |
| Medium Yellow | [121] |
| Dark Yellow | [122] |
| Golden Yellow | [123] |
| Old-Gold | [124] |
| Gray | [125] |
| Pearl Gray | [126] |
| Silver Gray | [126] |
| Brown | [127] |
| Light Brown | [129] |
| Rust Brown | [130] |
| Red Brown | [130] |
| Coffee Brown | [131] |
| Puce | [132] |
| Fawn | [133] |
| Chestnut Brown | [133] |
| Havanna | [134] |
| Mushroom | [135] |
| Light Drab | [136] |
| Beige | [137] |
| Modes | [138] |
| Reseda | [140] |
| Ordinary Green | [141] |
| Light Green | [142] |
| Moss Green | [143] |
| Bog Green | [143] |
| Grass Green | [144] |
| Russia Green | [144] |
| Rose | [146] |
| Red | [147] |
| Fast Alizarine Red | [147] |
| Scarlet | [148] |
| Ponceau | [150] |
| Bordeaux | [151] |
| Red Garnet | [152] |
| Brown Garnet | [152] |
| Ruby | [153] |
| Salmon | [153] |
| Amaranth | [154] |
| Bronze | [155] |
| Olive | [156] |
| Violet | [158] |
| Heliotrope and Lilac | [159] |
| Cream | [160] |
| White and Black | [161] |
| White | [164] |
| Black | [166] |
| Contrasts, Shadings, etc. | [173] |
| Edging or Borders | [176] |
| Gilding and Silvering | [178] |
| Frosting | [180] |
| Renovating Feathers | [182] |
| Dyeing in the Cold Way | [186] |
| Recapitulation of General Rules | [187] |
SPECIALTIES
FOR FEATHER AND SILK DYERS
PH. H. KARCHER & CO.,
55 CEDAR ST., NEW YORK,
Sole Agent for GILLIARD, P. MONNET and CARTIER'S
FRENCH ANILINE DYES
IMPORTERS OF
DYESTUFFS, EXTRACTS, CHEMICALS, &c.
ESTABLISHED 1861
HENRY A. GOULD & CO.
IMPORTERS AND JOBBERS OF
Indigo, Cutch, Dyewoods.
GENERAL AGENTS
Celebrated "Berlin Brand" Non-Poisonous Aniline Colors, including
Substantive Dyes, and many varieties Soloble in Oils, &c.
MANUFACTURED BY
Actien Gesellschaft fur Anilin-Fabrikation,
BERLIN, GERMANY.
17 & 19 Pearl Street, Boston.
78 William Street, New York.
71 North Front Street, Philadelphia.
A. KLIPSTEIN,
52 Cedar Street, NEW YORK.
ANILINE COLORS,
And all Dyestuffs and Chemicals used in Feather Dyeing.
BRANCH OFFICES:
134 Milk St., Boston. nbsp;nbsp;120 Arch St., Philadelphia.
WM. J. MATHESON & CO.,
20 Cedar Street, New York.
BRANCH HOUSES:
147 Milk St., Boston. nbsp;nbsp; 18 N. Front St., Philadelphia.
22 S. Water Street, Providence, R. I.
IMPORTERS OF AND DEALERS IN
Coal Tar Colors and Dyestuffs
MANUFACTURERS OF
Dyewood, Sumac and Indigo Extracts, and Carmines.
|
American Ultramarine and Globe Aniline Works | HELLER & MERZ, PROPRIETORS, 55 Maiden Lane, New York. P.O. Box 3508. Rose Bengal,Erythrosine, Fuchsine,Phloxine, Eosine,Violet, of Superior Quality. |
John M. Sharpless & Co.
MANUFACTURERS OF
SOLID AND PASTE
EXTRACTS OF DYEWOODS
CUT AND BOLTED
DYEWOODS
IMPORTERS OF
Cutch, Indigo, Chemicals, &c.
Office: 20 & 22 N. Front St., Philadelphia, Pa.
R. HOLLIDAY'S SONS,
128 MILK ST., BOSTON. MASS. 45 N. FRONT ST., PHILADELPHIA.
PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 PLATT ST., NEW YORK.
MANUFACTURERS OF ALL
ANILINE COLORS, ARCHIL, EXTRACT OF INDIGO, &c.
PATENTED OF ACID MAGENTA.
WORKS—Brooklyn, N. Y.; Huddersfield and Wakefield, England.
SCHOELLKOPF,
HARTFORD &
MACLAGAN, L't'd
3 Cedar St., NEW YORK. 103 Milk St., BOSTON.
42 N. Water St., PHILADELPHIA.
SOLE AGENTS FOR
SCHOELLKOPF ANILINE AND CHEMICAL CO.
BUFFALO, N. Y.
TEXTILE COLORIST,
A Monthly Journal
DEVOTED TO
PRACTICAL DYEING, BLEACHING,
PRINTING AND FINISHING,
DYES, DYESTUFFS, AND CHEMICALS AS
APPLIED TO DYEING,
Textile Machinery, Carding, Spinning, Weaving,
DESIGNING AND IMPROVED PROCESSES IN TEXTILE
MANUFACTURING.
ESTABLISHED, JANUARY, 1879.
Published on the 15th of each month, at
506 ARCH STREET,
PHILADELPHIA, U. S. A.