GUDGEON.
The gudgeon—thought excellent by every one, but which no one mentions—appeared with honour in the most magnificent repasts at Athens.[XXI_208] At Rome, it was served fried, at the beginning of supper;[XXI_209] and it disposed the guests to attack boldly the culinary corps de réserve, which took up the position as soon as the skirmish with the gudgeon was over.
“This fish is in abundance, principally in France and Germany; it is very good, and easily digested. They are served either fried or stewed; when done as last-mentioned, they must be drawn and wiped dry, put in a flat stewpan with butter, salt, pepper, good red wine, spring onions, mushrooms, shalots, thyme, bay leaves and basil—these last plants chopped very fine; stew the whole a quarter of an hour, and serve.”—Bosc.