HORSE-RADISH.
“By Apollo!” cried, mournfully, a philanthropic and gastronomic Greek, “one must be completely mad to buy horse-radish, when fish can be found in the market.”[IX_172] So thought the philosopher Amphis. And at Rome, as in Greece, this reviled and despised root hardly found a place on the table of the poor, when anything else could be had.
There were several serious causes for this fatal proscription: this plant was found to be bitter, stringy, and of difficult digestion;[IX_173] it was looked upon as a very common food;[IX_174] the lowest class alone dared to feed upon it; the opulent were therefore compelled to exclude it from the number of their dishes. And again, certain strange customs, authorised by the Roman law, contributed greatly to make the horse-radish an object of horror and detestation; so true it is, that the manner in which objects are associated with our ideas determines almost invariably our love or hatred for them.
Nevertheless, all the species of this vegetable (and there were five in number, distinctly mentioned by Theophrastus[IX_175]) ought not to have been condemned so severely. The Corinthian, the Leiothasian, the Cleonian, the Amorean, and the Bœotian, were so many distinct and separate species, each of which possessed its own peculiar property and quality.[IX_176] The last-named, with its large and silky leaves, was tender, and had a sweet, agreeable taste.[IX_177] The others, not so good, perhaps, were wholesome and nourishing, and their natural bitterness never failed to disappear, when the seeds were allowed to soak for some time in sweet or raisin wine before they were sown.[IX_178]
Shall we now mention the properties the horse-radish possessed, and which ought to have been sufficient to establish its reputation, if prejudice were not both deaf and blind?
Take, fasting, some pieces of this beneficent and despised root, and the most inveterate poisons will be changed for you into inoffensive drinks.[IX_179]
Would you have the power to handle and play with those dangerous reptiles whose active venom causes a speedy and sure death? Wash your hands in the juice of horse-radish.[IX_180]
Do you seek an efficacious remedy for the numerous evils which besiege us unceasingly? Take horse-radish,—nothing but horse-radish.[IX_181]
It is true that this incomparable root attacks the enamel of the teeth, and, indeed, soon spoils them;[IX_182] but why should we be so particular when so many marvellous properties are in question?
As to its culinary preparation, Apicius recommends us to serve it mixed with pepper and garum.[IX_183]