PART II.
CHAPTER I.
The Double Bridle.
The horse that can perform successfully the foregoing exercises, that has found his balance while moving forward, that is easy to control by the aids at the walk and trot, and that has learned the use of his legs in accomplishing a good walk, trot, and gallop, is ready for the double bridle. It normally takes about three months to accomplish this.
Definition.—The double bridle is one with usually four cheek straps, which fasten, one into the eye of the curb bit the other into the ring of the snaffle bit.
The curb bit is nearer the front of the horse’s mouth than the snaffle, and the curb chain likewise passes in front of the snaffle bit.
The Severity of the Curb Bit Increases—
1. With the difference between the length of the upper and lower branches.
2. With the tightness of the curb chain.
3. With the height of the port.
4. Inversely with the size of the canons. (De Saint-Phalle.)
Bits with branches similar in length to the U. S. regulation bit are arranged below in order of mildness:
1. The broken curb bit. (Like a snaffle bit, but with upper and lower branches and curb chain.)
2. Rubber- and leather-covered bits.
3. The straight bar bit.
4. The regulation bit.
Kinds.—The “Weymouth” or “Pump” bit is quite universally used for polo. Why it is considered efficacious for polo especially is not known. It is a good bit, except the lips are liable to become pinched.
The “Pelham” is a bit provided with rings for the snaffle rein at the junction of the canon with the branches. The action of the curb reins on this bit does not produce the same effect, when the snaffle reins are used at the same time, as it does on a curb bit, where the snaffle reins are attached to a separate snaffle bit.
It is a general rule to follow, that all complicated bits are useless, and that with a well-trained horse the mildest bit that will insure obedience is the correct one.
Schedule for Accustoming the Horse to the Curb Bit.
The reins are held in both hands, snaffle reins outside the little fingers.
1. Use the curb bit without curb chain until the horse becomes accustomed to it.
2. Use the mildest bit available and fasten the curb chain loosely. At first only move on straight lines until the horse takes the bit quietly, then execute simple exercises in which the horse is proficient. These exercises at first are begun on the snaffle bit.
3. Use the bit best adapted to the horse, and set the curb chain to keep the bit from falling through. Work mainly on the snaffle bit until the horse becomes accustomed to the bit and curb chain.
The preceding movements should be begun at first at a slow gait.
Use.—The curb bit is used primarily, in training, to lower the head, to flex the jaw, and to bring the nose in towards the body.
The snaffle bit raises the head and supports the horse.
A curb bit will not stop a horse that makes up his mind to bolt.
A curb bit roughly used may cause a horse to make up his mind to bolt.
A “hard mouth” is often a tender mouth accustomed to hard hands.
The Curb Bit “Gathers” the Horse.—A horse is gathered when his head and neck are well raised, the front line of the face nearly vertical, and the jaw and the junction of the head and neck at the poll flexible.
A horse in a state of “collection” is in a position to obey, to the utmost of his capability, any demands the aids may give.
A horse is in “collection” when he is gathered and his hind legs are well up under the body.
When a horse is collected, the rider, by having omitted bending the neck near the shoulders during training, has the neck firm on the shoulders and not flexible or “rubber-necked.” Hence the rider acts on the neck through the mouth and on the shoulders through the neck. The hind quarters by being under the horse bind themselves to the forehand. The rider then by acting on the forehand acts likewise upon the hind quarters.
The entire body of the horse should be, if properly collected, an energetic and harmonious whole. The horse is “in hand,” because his jaw is flexible and he yields to the effects of the bit. The horse is light or handy, because he is balanced by continual training and because his center of gravity is equally near both front and hind quarters; hence the proper movement on the part of the rider will disturb this balance in any direction desired.
The rider at this point, being supposed to be able to get the hind legs up under the horse, must learn to gather him.
To gather the horse involves:
1. Direct flexion (the flexion of the jaw and head in the direction of the axis of the horse.)
2. Lateral flexion (the flexion of the neck at the poll in a direction perpendicular to the axis of the horse).
Direct Flexion.—Direct flexion is the concession the head and lower jaw of the horse make in the vertical plane of the axis, of the horse when the action of the reins arrests the extension of the neck. The giving of the neck is confined to the upper portions; the front line of the face is made to approach a vertical line and the head is made to make in an almost imperceptible manner a movement analogous to a nod.
The giving of the jaw consists in opening the mouth, causing complete abandon of the bit, followed immediately by the closing of the mouth and the taking up of contact with the bit again.
To flex the jaw in direct flexion, first start the horse into a walk. Never let the gait slacken during flexion. Close the legs. When the horse goes up into the bit, close one hand on one snaffle rein (if the movement is done with a snaffle bit), or close the hand on both curb reins. Do not make the pressure of long duration if resistance is encountered. Alternate the action, first by releasing, then increasing the pressure. This is more uncomfortable to the horse than continued pressure, and he will soon yield.
The head is flexed in direct flexion so that it is set with the front line of the face nearly vertical by the action of both curb reins. The head and neck are raised by the snaffle bit, should they be lowered too much.
Lateral Flexion.—Lateral flexion is a concession which the head and neck make by turning the head to the right or to the left when an opposing action of the reins stops an extension of the neck. The jaw gives in lateral flexion as in direct flexion. The neck gives by making the head make a turn of a quarter of a circle to the right or left at the poll.
Lateral flexion should be demanded, in the beginning, at the walk. To obtain it, to the right, for example: first, resistance must be offered by the right direct rein, which leads the head into the desired position; the left rein then acts to limit this movement and to work together with the right rein to obtain the concession of the jaw.
Flexion may be made dismounted, if absolutely impossible of execution mounted.
Direct Flexion Dismounted.—Stand on the near side of the horse. Take the snaffle reins off the neck over the horse’s head and hold them a few inches in front of his head with the left hand. Urge the horse forward into a walk and raise the head slightly to the proper elevation with the snaffle reins. When the horse moves out at the walk, take the curb reins in the right hand and assimilate the movement of the reins as though flexing the jaw mounted. Do not let the horse slacken speed or, at any cost, back up.
Lateral Flexion Dismounted.—Stand on the near side, with the snaffle rein held as for direct flexion. Execute direct flexion and when performed lead the horse’s head to the right with a snaffle rein, increasing the pressure of the right curb rein slightly until the head is turned to the right at the poll. Do not let the horse move backward, nor let the neck flex in rear of the poll. The maximum movement of the head is over an arc of a circle of 90 degrees.
CHAPTER II.
The Change of Lead at the Gallop.
This movement is to be undertaken when the horse is capable of taking the desired lead from a trot on a straight line.
1. Put the horse on a circle of large radius, at a gallop. Leave the circle by a line parallel to the diagonal of the riding-hall and form another large circle to the opposite hand, keeping the same lead at the gallop as on the first circle. Galloping on the second circle with the same lead as on the first is galloping “false.” Besides lowering the croup and balancing the horse, the false lead impresses the aids upon the horse, because to maintain a false lead the aids used on the first circle must be more strongly used on the second.
2. Gallop the horse on a straight line, leading right. Bring him down to a trot, previously having changed the aids to gallop left, which assists in bringing the horse to the trot and prepares the way for the next move. As soon as the trot is taken, increase the aids of gallop left, increase the impulsion, and send the horse into gallop left, with only a few steps of the trot intervening between gallops. Gradually, as the horse becomes proficient, decrease the number of steps taken at the trot.
3. When the amount of trot required between changes of lead is hardly more than a slackening of speed, or “half halt,” make a large circle to the right at the gallop, leading right. Leave the circle on the diagonal, as before, and make another circle to the left, holding the right lead. Change the aids, while on the second circle, to gallop left, without coming to the trot, and force the horse into the change of lead.
4. When the horse can accomplish the above, attempt the change of aids and force the change of lead on the straight line without diminishing the gait.
The above movements are very difficult to accomplish smoothly and correctly. The change of aids must not be accomplished roughly and the aids must be used with only the intensity required to change the lead, thereby not forcing the horse to increase of speed.