Contents

ChapterPage
[AT THE RISING OF THE SUN][3]
[NOR’EASTER][5]
[A DRIVE DOWN CAPE][9]
[FARMING THE SALT SEA][12]
[With the Captain][12]
[Weir Fishing][16]
[Not All Fishing Is From A Boat][20]
[Not All Fishing Is For Fish][22]
[“J.F.”][25]
[AUNT ALICE][30]
[SOME NIGHT BEFORES][37]
[SOME PURVEYORS OF NOSTRUMS][43]
[MODERN HEROES OF THE SEA][49]
[THE CAPTAINS][52]
[THE CAPTAINS’ HOUSES][58]
[Two Captains, Two Sisters][61]
[East Is West][64]
[OF CAPE COD FENCES][67]
[SOME OLD MEETING HOUSE][70]

CAPE COD
Is A Number of Things

ALLAN NEAL

The selections in this book
have appeared in different form in the
column Soundside of the Yarmouth
Register.

Printed at the Register Press
Yarmouth Port
Cape Cod
December 1954

We had been driving along in the full glory of a September afternoon on the Cape. It was a wonderful world of deep blues and green pines, of gleaming white sands and of sunshine singing over everything. I had been pointing out things, afraid she might miss them, or not see all there was to see in them.

She said, “I wish you could hear yourself as you sound to others. When you talk about the Cape it is as if you owned it, all of it,—and you treat everyone else here as your guest.” There was nothing to say to that because I knew it was the truth. Still, I knew that there was a better than even chance that, given a year, more or less, she would be irritating some newcomer from the Mainland with her own possessiveness. She said, “It is really a very nice place you know, especially on a day like this. But you have been everywhere and everywhere leads you right back here. You never leave the Cape except under protest, and you rush back as if it might disappear in your absence. What is it between you and the Cape?”

So I thought I would try, anyway, and I began:

Cape Cod is a number of things, and it means a number of things to me....

First of all there is the land, the bounteous and the beautiful land, and then there is the beautiful and bounteous sea that surrounds it. And there is the special way in which the land and the sea respond to nature and her varied seasons. There are a thousand colors and a thousand variations of each; there are a thousand moods and you never know which one to expect. You only know that the land and sea are there and that there is no dullness in them.