Friction Clutch Hints
To remove the friction clutch: Push in on the starting and stopping lever. Take out the fulcrum screw or remove the nut from the outer end of the clutch rod. Remove the clutch arm key screw. The clutch can now be removed. Be careful in replacing the friction to have the key with the bevel down and toward the back of the keyway.
The driving pulleys or gear can be removed only when the friction clutch is removed.
To remove the clutch rod spring: Remove the friction clutch. Unscrew the screw bushing from the end of the shaft, take out the screw extending through the collar, and pull out the clutch rod and the spring.
If the machine stops on the upper stopping lever with a jerk, the inner side of the driving pulley or the friction clutch leathers are gummy or the friction is out of adjustment.
The inner surface of the driving pulley must be kept clean.
If the machine slows up while casting or ejecting, the clutch is slipping.
The 15/32 of an inch adjustment is made by the nut on the clutch rod on the old style, and by building up under the leathers on the new.
The 1/32 of an inch adjustment is made by the screw in the lower part of the upper stopping lever.
The machine will not stop when the key screw in the clutch arm works loose, allowing the friction clutch to work toward the outer end of the shaft.
A screw holding the clutch leather shoe in place, may extend above the shoe and cause the friction to slip.
The friction link collar, where it fastens on to the clutch rod, should be parallel with the driving pulley or gear when the machine is in operating position; if not, there is unequal pressure on the links and shoes, causing a slipping clutch.
Study the friction clutch adjustments, but do not change them every time something stops the machine. It is much easier to break an adjustment than to make one.
A piece of metal from a squirt lodged between the mold disk guide or back of the rim on the disk will cause it to bind, placing more pull on the clutch.