Linotype mechanism

by Alvin Garfield Swank; Raymond Means

MOLD SLIDE

The mold slide, which carries the mold disk and molds, moves in a slideway at the right of the metal pot and gets its action from cam No. 9, and the mold cam lever on which are assembled two rollers. One roller is fastened to the lever by a screw and a washer, and is seated in a depression in the rear end of the mold slide connecting the mold slide with cam No. 9. The other roller has as its bearing an adjustable eccentric pin fastened to the mold cam lever, and follows the contour of the cam in the right side of cam No. 9.

When a line of matrices is in position in front of the mold, the mold slide advances so that the lugs of the matrices will enter the aligning grooves of the mold. This position is held until the spacebands are driven up for justification and the line is raised for alignment. The slide then comes forward a second time for final lockup just as the metal pot locks against the back of the mold.

When the mold slide comes forward the first time there should be .010 of an inch space between the mold and the vise jaws or the line. This space between the mold and the jaws is regulated by the eccentric pin in the mold cam lever roller, and allows the proper justification and alignment of the matrices before the final lockup.

During the alignment and during the first justification, the matrices must be perfectly free, so that they may readjust themselves sidewise in the line. Hence the importance of preventing the mold from pressing forward against the matrices and spacebands at its first movement.

If the slide advances too far forward the aligning groove of the mold would engage the lugs of the matrices before the first elevator jaws were seated properly on the vise cap, shearing the lugs of the matrices. Or if the mold was forced to lockup tight against the line, it would prevent justifying properly, causing hair lines to show between the matrices or a squirt on the left-hand end. If there is too much space between the mold and the jaws, when the first elevator raises for alignment, the lugs of the matrices not being in the aligning groove, would permit the line of matrices to raise to the upper aligning groove of the mold, causing the line of matrices to be cast on the raised position; or if the aligning groove did not advance close to hold the lugs, there would be a small squirt.

The .010 of an inch adjustment also affects the lockup of the slide at ejecting position. If there is a trifle more space between the mold and the line than .010 of an inch, the mold will not seat against the banking blocks at ejecting point. This will sometimes allow the slug to twist slightly, causing it to be trimmed crooked.

To test this adjustment: Turn the casting mechanism until the first elevator jaws are resting on the vise cap; place a pig of metal under the head of the slide and on top of the vise automatic stop rod; fold a piece of newspaper three thicknesses, or proof paper until it measures about .010 of an inch; close the vise jaws; place the paper between the mold and the vise jaws; turn the machine by hand until the metal pot is just ready to move forward; pull up on the paper, which should bind a trifle as it is being withdrawn. If the paper does not bind or binds too tight it would show that the slide is out of adjustment.

To make the slide adjustment, place the paper between the jaws and the mold as in the test. Change the position of the mold slide by moving the eccentric pin in the mold cam lever roller so that the paper can be withdrawn, binding just a trifle. Moving the handle forces the mold slide either forward or backward, as desired.

The mold slide moves in the slideway on a gib. There should be .007 of an inch play between the mold slide and the gib because the mold slide will expand from the heat of the metal pot, but by having the above mentioned play, it will not bind, and will slide in and out freely.

This adjustment is made by the two square head screws under the gib on which the slide moves. There is no gib on the late model machines, and consequently no adjustment for the slideway.

As the mold slide advances, it slides up on the locking stud blocks on the vise, raising the slide approximately .007 of an inch. The screw beneath the mold disk guide on the mold gear arm should have a little clearance above it when the slide is forward on the locking stud blocks. There should be play enough to slip a sheet of paper between the screw and the guide when the mold disk is forward on the locking studs.

To remove a mold slide: Lower the vise to second position, disconnect the mold slide, and take out the ejector lever link. Pull forward on the slide and disk, assembled, and lift out.