BLOCKING AND FINISHING
Blocking is method used to shape a garment for a “professional look”. Steps to follow:
1—Conceal all ends: run ends through several stitches on wrong side. If yarn is heavy or bulky, split strand and run ends through several stitches.
2—Determine whether garment is to be washed. If so, wash each section separately by hand or machine wash garment according to specific instructions on yarn label or commercial laundering product. Most garments stretch larger when wet. Care, therefore, should be taken in handling wet sections. Squeeze gently in the washing, DO NOT TWIST or WRING. Rinse thoroughly. Place in turkish towel and squeeze out excess moisture. Place on turkish towel to dry. If sections of garment appear to be too big, adjust sections to measure by pushing sections into slight puckers. Puckers will disappear when sections dry.
3—Always use the stitch gauge given as a guide for blocking. Instructions are written for the average in any size, see [page 14] for our sizes. Any slight adjustment for individual size should be made in the blocking.
4—After measurements have been determined, place the sections individually and wrong side up on a well padded surface or table. It is sometimes helpful to draw outline on brown paper or heavy tissue paper. With rust proof pins, pin each section to measurement spacing pins about ½ inch apart.
5—Place a wet pressing cloth over a section. Using a rotary motion, hold iron as close as possible to section allowing steam to penetrate, but DO NOT at any time let iron rest on garment. Leave sections on pressing table until thoroughly dry.... Do not hurry this process.
6—Always bear in mind that cables and rib patterns have a tendency to pull in or shrink back. Each section should be blocked about 2 inches more than desired measure, but should NEVER be pressed flat. Also some patterns are especially designed for a textured effect. They too should NEVER be pressed flat. Never press ribbing of cuffs, waistband or neckline.
7—After all sections have been blocked garment is now ready for finishing. Seams may be woven (see [illustrations for weaving lengthwise and crosswise seams]) or back stitched (see illustration [page 31]), or by sewing machine. To weave lengthwise seam: thread tapestry needle with a single strand of matching yarn. Hold lengthwise edges together, right sides up. Insert needle in center of st on right side, pass under two rows and pull yarn through to right side. Insert needle in corresponding row of left side, draw yarn through in same way. Work from side to side in this manner taking care to keep seam elastic, matching rows, patterns, stripes, etc. To weave a crosswise seam: hold crosswise edges together. Starting at right edge, insert needle under two loops of stitch on top section, insert needle down through center of next stitch and up through center of next stitch on lower section. Continue in same manner working alternately into top section and then into lower section until seam is completed taking care to keep seam elastic and matching patterns, etc.
b—Back stitching: place right sides of sections to be seamed together. Pin, keeping edges even and matching rows or patterns. With tapestry needle and matching yarn back stitch close to edge taking care not to draw stitches too tight and keeping seam elastic.
c—Sewing machine: loosen tension on machine as you would for jersey or any stretchy fabric. Place right sides together and pin. Baste seam being careful not to draw stitches too tight. Remove pins. With matching thread machine stitch seam. If yarn is bulky or fuzzy sew over tissue paper. Remove paper when finished.
8—After garment is all assembled, carefully steam seams flat and even.
TO SHORTEN ...
(No hem desired). Determine length you desire; place a marker. Cut through one st at side seam about 2 rows below marker. * Pick up cut end and draw through several sts, cut this length close as possible to work. This drawn length will tighten sts. After length has been cut straighten edge taking care with loose sts. Place loose sts on free needle. Repeat from * until row has been ripped and sts have been placed on needle. With free needle bind off—or—attach yarn on P side, and with crochet hook work a slip stitch (see [page 30]) in each st, turn. Work a slip stitch in each st, cut yarn. If a hem is desired, allow for hem and complete same as above. Turn hem to wrong side and tack in place.
TO LENGTHEN ...
(If a sufficient amount of same dye lot is available). Cut off cast on edge in same manner as above. Pick up loose sts and knit to length desired. If there is a ribbing on section to be lengthened, cut into the row above the ribbing, then add to length. If you do not have enough of same dye lot to work garment to length desired, we suggest working a stripe of contrasting color and finishing with same color as garment.