Chapter Fifteen.
Ovampoland. South Central Africa.
This extensive region is situated to the north of Damaraland, its eastern boundary is the Kalahara desert, already described, and on the north-west the Cunene river and the Portuguese settlement forms its boundary. The high table-land extends over the whole of this region, and is exceedingly healthy, the highest altitude being 5300 feet, as far as I have been able to take them.
The Ovampos have large herds of cattle and goats, and cultivate corn extensively. The people are very black, finely proportioned for strength, and are hardworking and industrious; they speak the Otjiherero tongue, and are very jealous of strangers.
The only river not yet described that drains Ovampoland is the Ovampo river, which commences on the west of the Central Watershed, at an altitude of 4200 feet, and in 19 degrees 20 minutes South latitude, 18 degrees 56 minutes East longitude, then passes north-west, through the Great Salt vlei, it falls into the Cunene river, and thence to the Atlantic.
The country is said to be rich in minerals, but no time was allowed for exploring. Ovampoland is one of the most beautiful parts of South Central Africa, with picturesque mountains, lovely open glades, well-wooded districts, a rich soil for corn, and a dry and healthy climate.
I left Otabengo on the 10th of September, 1869, and proceeded along the Okayanka, which passes east and enters the Tonka, already described; it rises in 17 degrees 48 minutes South latitude, 17 degrees 50 minutes East longitude. At Chambombo vlei, between this and the Ovampo river, we cross the Great Watershed, and get into the Zambese basin. Game of every kind is to be found here, the elephant, rhinoceros, giraffe, eland, sable-antelope, gemsbok, and a variety of other kinds; the ostrich, zebra, buffalo, wild boar, besides the lion, wolf, leopard, and other beasts of prey, which nightly visited our camp, causing at times great alarm. There are large open plains with palms, the mighty baobab, the giant of the forest, and other tropical trees and plants.
I halted at a small village of the Kasaka Bushmen, which I named my station, and followed up the river before commencing my return journey. Ondonga wherf is where the chief Nangaro lived, and was succeeded by Chipanga. The country is divided into small chieftainships. The chief Chikongo lived on the banks of the Cubango or Okavango, which is broad, and in the rainy season forms a fine sheet of water. The population is numerous, the villages are fortified, their language is similar to the Ovaherero tongue; many of the tribes call themselves Ovambuola. The Ovaquangari are a tall, well-made race, but very ugly, smeared over with fat and yellow clay; their huts are round, the roof going up into a peak.
It is a thickly populated country. Bushmen and poor Ovaheros are scattered over this region, which with the tribes have already been described. There are no mission stations, but the people are friendly, honest, and hospitable, and travelling through the country in the rainy season is not so difficult. In the dry season there are many parts which cannot be visited. The produce of Ovampoland is brought down by traders to Walfish Bay. Some few Portuguese travel through it from the Portuguese settlement, their merchandise and themselves being carried by slaves. Along the Ovampo river there are many extensive vleis; some retain their water throughout the year, others are partially dry. The Otjihero tribe have many wherfs along the river, and on the banks of the vleis, under petty chiefs, who are almost independent. Extensive open grass plains, and portions thickly wooded, fine timber trees, and beautiful flowers. The cotton-plant is indigenous, and if cultivated the country might become a valuable district. Between this and the Cubango the Batibe tribe is found. The natives hunt the leopard, panthers, and the lynx with dogs. Wild dogs or African wolves go in large droves and roam the country; they are seen in packs of 200 and upwards. In one of the low-lying swampy pans or pools I witnessed a novel sight late at night; nearly one hundred elephants came to drink, and seven giraffes. The latter have difficulty in bringing their heads down to water. To enable them to do this where the water is shallow they spread out their fore-legs as wide apart as possible, and then bring their long necks down to enable their mouths to reach the water. A full-grown bull-giraffe measures eighteen feet in height. The front legs six feet, six feet at the shoulder, and the neck six feet. When galloping, their unwieldy movements, throwing their heads on each side, give them a strange appearance. Although they seem to move slowly, they get over an immense extent of ground in a short time. I have had some difficulty when in the saddle to keep pace with them; they are as timid as lambs. I have ridden for some distance abreast of several at different times within a few yards before I could get a shot; that is the time when their size becomes apparent; and when they fall, after receiving a vital bullet, the sight is grand; but at the same time it is painful to think that such noble animals should be killed to keep the pot. Lions sometimes kill them, by springing on their back, seizing the upper part of their shoulder with their mouth, and with one of their hind legs bury their powerful claws into the flank, tearing open the side. This soon cripples them, and they fall with a crash, the lion still holding on; frequently their skeletons are found on the open plain.
The man-eating lions are a great terror to the natives. When once they have tasted human flesh they will procure it whenever they have the chance. Frequently they will enter the native huts and carry off the first victim within reach. Many districts have been abandoned by the people where these man-eaters are numerous. At one of my bivouacs, where I was watching for one of these lions, near a small pool north of the Otabengo vlei, there were seven human skeletons that had been brought there by lions, and eaten by them.
There are many fine euphorbia, aloes, acacias, mimosas, kameel-doorns, maparri trees, ningano, lotus, and palms, which give a novel appearance to the scenery to a northern eye. On nearing the Cubango we fell in with many herds of buffaloes. We shot two, but had a very narrow escape. A dense bush surrounded us, which enabled us to escape, with great difficulty. The next day I found a tree bearing yellow fruit similar to an orange, with a kernel in the centre, rather pleasant flavour, very similar to the marula tree in Matabeleland. Many kinds of beautiful birds, mocking-bird, swarms of the butcher-bird, namaqua-grouse. Along the banks near water thousands of butterflies are seen of many colours, particularly where the ground is moist they settle to suck.
Almost daily I go in search of insects, and I made many valuable collections to be thrown away from being destroyed by worms and moths. I collected no less than five kinds of bats, some of them very large. These also fell to pieces. Although I was not molested by the Batibe tribe, I found a stay in the country would add to the suspicions they already entertained, I could see, of my presence, so I moved on, and, taking another route, passing Okayanka, crossed a desert through a bush and open country, guided by two Kasaka Bushmen, and returned to Westley Vale after a tedious and long journey. Although in the rainy season we had difficulty to find water, the soil being sandy, a heavy shower of rain soon soaks into the ground. Permanent water there is none. On our way we were caught in one of those extensive veldt fires that are so common all over Africa, and narrowly escaped. Following down along the great Salt vlei, Otjando, Otjikolo, skirting the Otjiokaka mountains, we reached the wells, and up the Omuramba, where water was plentiful, made for Barmen, where I remained a day, then to Eikham, Rhenoster vlei, Ames, to Westley Vale on the Nosop. The country through which I passed has already been described, in the Kalahara desert. On our way down we saw many herds of game, small troops of elephants, a few rhinoceros, koodoos, pallahs, wild boars and others. Lions we heard in plenty, but they did not come near. I was anxious to leave the country, as the rainy season was just past, and water was getting scarce, having great difficulty on several occasions to find water for man and beast, and it is refreshing to be able after a toilsome and hazardous journey to arrive at a safe haven, where rest and good water are procurable.
As a country Ovampoland is rich in game of every description, corn and native products. Cotton, if cultivated, would be a valuable product for exportation, but at the present time it is no country for emigration, being extensively occupied by too many uncivilised natives, who are averse to whites living in that country. It is only fit to be preserved at present to the British crown for its native produce and an outlet for British merchandise.
Before leaving Ovampo it will be necessary to give some short description of the ants and ant-hills which are in every conceivable form and size. First comes the lion-ant, that lives in the bottom of a little funnel-shaped hole in the sand, about four inches in depth and four inches in diameter. Any fly or small ant coming near falls down with the rolling sand, when out springs the ant, carries him under the sand where he has been watching for his prey, and, when devoured, waits for another. The largest specimen in my possession only measures half an inch in length. The smallest ant makes a little circular ring of sand formed by the ground brought out from a small hole just beneath the ground. They ate so small that when put upon a white sheet of paper they look like fine dust; and yet these little industrious insects form such beautiful and perfect nests with cells in the ground, the extent of which seldom exceeds the size of a small apple. There is a variety of ant-hills over the country, some of them seventeen feet in height and sixty feet in circumference, made by the small white ant, which is so destructive to buildings. Mosquitoes also infest the country near the swamps and lagoons. My Bushmen and Hottentots had a very ingenious method of being free from them at night by digging holes in the ground where they intended to sleep, covering themselves in their blankets in these holes, and throwing bushes over them as they disposed themselves to sleep. Sand-flies were also very annoying, and as evening closed in hundreds of fire-flies would be seen in all directions, not forgetting the crickets and frogs, which would keep up a perfect din of noises. Beetles of every description and size, particularly some very large rhinoceros-beetles, swarm all over the country. Then there is that small animal called the skunk, with black and white fur, but which gives out a most offensive smell, more pungent than the pole-cat. The swamps seem full of the water-tortoise, and the land-tortoise is also very common and grows to a great size. Tree-toads and tree-lizards may be seen in the old trees and on the branches. I have found many leaf insects in the desert of various kinds. They look very peculiar walking along; some of them are very pretty, many of a light-green colour, others like brown leaves. There are a great variety of beautiful birds, where water is not far away, and the goat-sucker is a constant visitor at the camp. But of all the most welcome birds is the turtle-dove. When we hear its call we know water is not far away. If proper means were adopted to procure water this region would be capable of supporting a large population, as the country is rich in almost everything that man requires, and is most healthy. The first step to take to open up this part of the desert is to improve the road from Walfish Bay to Lake N’gami, and open out the fountains. This would lessen the distance to our interior trade 800 miles.
Of late years the game of the country has been greatly reduced in consequence of the natives having guns.