Chapter Twenty.
South Central Africa—Its territorial divisions and boundaries. The River System and their Basins.
This extensive region is bounded on the south by the Cape Colony and the Orange Free States; the Orange river by the former, and the Vaal river from the fountain-head down to where it enters the Orange, in 29 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, 23 degrees 47 minutes East longitude, by the latter State, with the exception of a portion of Griqualand West, which extends beyond those two rivers, and forms part of the above region. The Orange enters the South Atlantic in 28 degrees 40 minutes South latitude, 16 degrees 25 minutes East longitude, and up to the junction of the Vaal is the boundary of the Cape Colony and South Central Africa, which extends northwards up to the basin of the Congo, a distance of 1400 miles, and in width, from the South Atlantic to the Indian Ocean, in the northern part 1800 miles, the extreme south 1100 miles, an area of over 2,000,000 square miles, divided into divisions or territories, ruled over by independent chiefs, and will be dealt with under their respective heads. Great Namaqua and Damaralands embrace the whole of the west coast-line, from the Orange river northwards to the Qunene river, the boundary of the Portuguese settlement of Benguela and Angola, a coast-line of 730 miles. The remaining portion by the Portuguese settlement, the eastern coast, extends from the south side of Delagoa Bay, and the southern extremity of the Portuguese settlement, to the mouth of the Zambese river, on to Quilimain, a Portuguese port on the north, a distance of coast-line of 700 miles, up to the boundary of the Congo Confederation.
This vast area is divided into three separate watersheds, the most important one divides the waters of the South Atlantic from the Indian Ocean. This watershed commences at the extreme southern point on the Drakensberg mountain in Natal, 10,000 feet in altitude, following that range round to New Scotland, 6100 feet in altitude, in the Transvaal, then turns west, along the high veldt between Potchefstroom and Pretoria, 6300 feet, to the north of Lichtenburg, a town in the same State, 6100 feet, then in a north-west direction through a portion of Bechuanaland, the Kalahara desert, to Ovampoland, 4300 in altitude, on to Benguela, the Portuguese settlement on the west coast. All on the west of this shed the country is drained by the Orange and Vaal rivers and their tributaries, and the Swakop and other small streams in Damaraland, into the South Atlantic Ocean. The second watershed commences on the high land, 4260 feet in altitude, half-way through the desert, in 23 degrees 40 minutes South latitude, 23 degrees 20 minutes East longitude, takes a north-east direction, passing on the east side of the great brak vlei Makarakara, along the granite range of the Molopo in Matabeleland, on to the Lobolo mountain, 4500 feet in altitude, near the Zambese river, 300 miles from its mouth. The above river and its tributaries drain the country on the north of this watershed, and is called the Zambese basin; on the south side it is drained by the Limpopo river and its tributaries, called the Limpopo basin; both rivers discharge themselves into the Indian Ocean. These three large rivers, the Orange, Zambese, and Limpopo, with their branches, with the exception of a small portion of great Namaqua and Damaralands on the west coast, and also part of Umzela’s territory and the Transvaal by Delagoa Bay on the east coast, drain nearly 2,000,000 square miles of South Central Africa. The Orange, south of the above region, with its tributaries, drain the Orange Free State, and part of the Cape Colony, to the extent of 170,000 square miles in addition. Each of these river systems I propose to describe, as they form the principal geographical features, previous to going more into the detail of the several territories ruled over by independent chiefs.
The Zambese System, Covering an Area of 860,000 Square Miles.
The entire length of this river, from the fountain-head to its mouth in the Indian Ocean, south of Mozambique, is 1550 miles. The small lake Dilolo, in 11 degrees 30 minutes South latitude, 23 degrees 0 minutes East longitude, situated in the Lololala region, and within a few miles of the upper springs of the Kuana, a branch of the Congo; and from thence falls south and south-east, through Lui Banda, Barotsi, Makololo, Banyeti, and other tribes, with its many branches, to the Victoria Falls, and then on to the sea in an easterly direction. The other important tributaries, taking their rise in the region west of the above, are the Chobe, Quito, Cubango or Okavango, and many branches in the country of the Kimbandi and Bunda; the source of the Cubango or Okavango is but a short distance from the upper springs of the river Quanza, that passes through Angola to the South Atlantic, and belongs to the Portuguese. The Chobe takes a winding course south, through a level and swampy country, full of jungle, past a Kaffir kraal, Matambaya, to within seventy miles to the west of Linyanti; past that chief’s kraal, in an easterly and north-easterly direction, it enters the Zambese thirty-seven miles above the Victoria Falls. The Chobe is a large and broad river with several rapids. There are many streams and laagte which intersect this extensive and swampy region.
It is a most unhealthy and sickly country, whence it has obtained the name of the Fever District. The Cubango river: the source of this river also flows south 19 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, 15 degrees 0 minutes East longitude, the altitude was 3370 feet above sea-level; from that station the river runs in a south-east direction for fifty-five miles to Libebe kraal, then in an easterly course winding through the desert for sixty-five miles to Debabe’s kraal, 17 degrees 22 minutes South latitude, 21 degrees 30 minutes East longitude. Thirty miles below my station the river Quito joins, which forms a broad and fine stream. At Debabe’s the river turns south-south-east, and receives a new name, the Tonga; one portion flowing into the Chobe; the other continuing, with many turns and windings, for 220 miles, finally entering the north-west corner of Lake N’gami at an altitude of 2813 feet, receiving in its course the Laagte Okayanka that rises in Ovarapoland at Chambomba vlei, 3900 feet above sea-level, flowing east, and enters the Tonga 110 miles below Debabe town, where the country is full of swamps, with outlets into the Mababe river. Lake N’gami is forty-five miles long when full, and about ten miles in width, very shallow, and is getting less every year. The western end is in 20 degrees 25 minutes South latitude, 22 degrees 38 minutes East longitude. There are several small streams which flow into it in the rainy season. On the eastern side the Zouga river joins it, sometimes flowing into it, and sometimes out; the direction of the current depending on the rainfall. The Zouga, from the lake, winds easterly through a flat country for eighty miles, then turns south for 130 miles to Kumadua vlei, and then north-east for sixty miles, and joins the great Makarakara brak vlei, which is nearly fifty miles across, where five streams enter it on the eastern side from the watershed that passes through the Matabeleland, viz. the Nata, Quabela, Shuari, Mia, and Tua. The Zouga river having such a perfect level, the water in April and May flows easterly, in June and July westerly. The only outlet for the surplus water of the Zouga, lake, and vlei, is the Mababe into the Chobe; and when all are full, and no stream flowing, the water in the Mababe goes north or south according to the rain. If a great rush of water comes out of the lake or vlei, the Mababe is the outlet which connects the lake system with the Zambese, and the hippopotami find their way up from the latter river into the Zouga. The length of the Mababe from these two points is 200 miles, but there are several watercourses throughout this region, more particularly round the hilly district of Ngwa hills, traversing the country in all directions; pans and vleis intersect this extensive district, many of them extensive—the Sira and Etwetwe are considerable.
The tributaries to the east of the Victoria Falls to the coast comprise the following:—Daka, Zimboya, Gwaii with its many branches, Sebuana, Lohala, Sinyaki, Lozenza, Banyeka, Panyama, Zingisi, Nake, Luenya, Landeen, Sankatsi, Zangwe; all of them take their rise in the watershed of the Molopo and Lobolo mountains. The principal known tributaries on the north of the Zambese are the Shire, which enters it ninety miles from the mouth—it is a broad and extensive river, being the outlet to the waters of the Lake Shirwa—the Kewubue, Loangwa, Kafue, Majecla, Luamba, and many intervening branches not yet sufficiently surveyed. This comprises the Zambese basin, the most valuable and important region in South Central Africa.
The Limpopo River Basin, Covering an Area of 620,000 Square Miles.
This river, from the fountain-head to its mouth, where it enters the Indian Ocean, eighty miles up the coast from Delagoa Bay, in 25 degrees 25 minutes South latitude, 33 degrees 30 minutes East longitude, is 850 miles in length. Its configuration is nearly three parts of a circle. The chief fountains rise south of Pretoria in the Transvaal, on the watershed between Potchefstroom and Pretoria, 26 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, 28 degrees 40 minutes East longitude, taking a north-north-west course for 200 miles, then turns north-east, and then easterly for 400 miles, and then in a south-south-east direction for 250 miles over a flat country to the ocean.
The principal tributaries on the west and north are the Eland, Great Marico, Notuane, Makalapsie, Setuane, Serube, Pakwe, Maclutsie, Shasha, Makhae, Kubie, and the Nuanettie, and their several branches, which drain the country on the eastern side of the two watersheds. The Great Marico, with its branches of Little Marico and Molmane, drains a considerable extent of country in the Marico and Molmane district, and a large portion of Bechuanaland under the chiefs Gaseitsive, Sechele, Makose, and Lindsey. The remainder pass through the chief Khama’s country, and the Mashona country under the Matabele king, Lo-Bengulu. The eastern branches all rise in the Transvaal as under:—the Apies passes by Pretoria, Pienaar, Matlabas Sand, Palala, Magalaquen, Hout, Lovolo, and the Olifants river with its many branches.
Their fountains rise on the north side of the watershed, which passes east. The other rivers are the Manica, with its three principal branches, the Sabie, Crocodile, and Umcomati, that partly drain the Lydenburg gold-fields; the Umbolosi and the Maputa, with two main branches, the Uzutu and Pongola, that fall into Delagoa Bay. The eastern coast-line, north of the Limpopo, drains the territory under the chief Umzela; the two principals are the Sabie or Sabia, which rises in the northern watershed at Sakaloto kraal, 18 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, 32 degrees 8 minutes East longitude, at an altitude of 4210 feet above sea-level, and the Buzi river, which supplies Umzela’s kraal, and both rivers enter the Indian Ocean in Sofala Bay. These rivers complete the Limpopo basin, which drains the northern portion of the Transvaal, the Portuguese settlement, in addition to those already named.
The Orange and Vaal River System, and the Ancient River System of the Kalahara Desert, Covering an Area of 520,000 Square Miles.
The only portion of the Orange river which forms the south boundary of South Central Africa is that part from its mouth to the junction of the Vaal. The Orange above that junction turns south-east, and from Ramah, which is the point where the boundary between Griqualand West and the Orange Free State join, the river is the northern boundary of the Cape Colony up to Basutoland, where the head-fountains rise in the mountain regions of that territory, and it is the boundary of Natal near Giant’s Castle, at an altitude of 10,000 feet above sea-level.
The Caledon forms one of its tributaries, draining a portion of the Orange Free State. The Vaal river, which forms the south-east boundary of South Central Africa, rises in the Quathlamba mountain—a beautiful range of hills on the eastern division of the Transvaal, now called New Scotland—and Wakkerstroom district, and from Klip Staple, an isolated hill, 6110 feet in altitude above sea-level, also from Lake Cressie, a large sheet of water at an elevation of 5813 feet. Rensberg, a part of the Quathlamba, is 6800, and in 26 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, 30 degrees 32 minutes East longitude. From this point the river flows south-west, seventy miles, to Standerton, a town in the Transvaal, and on the main transport road from Natal to Pretoria, passing through an open country, receiving in its course many small feeders. From that town the river takes a winding course west for 120 miles, down to where the Moi river, upon which Potchefstroom is built, joins it; on the northern bank several small streams flow into it that rise in the watershed, running from Klip Staple westerly to Lichtenburg, the altitude averaging 5000 feet. The principal are Bushman, Kalk, and Rand. Heidelburg is situated on the latter, between the Kalk and Rand. On the south bank the river Wolga is one of the upper tributaries, rising in the Drakensberg above Harrysmith in the Orange Free State. It is an important stream draining a large extent of country. From the Moi river the Vaal flows south-west, with many bends and turns, for 240 miles, to the town of Barkly in Griqualand West, where the altitude is 3750 feet, and 28 degrees 30 minutes South latitude, 24 degrees 41 minutes East longitude. Between these two points there are several spruits falling into it from the north, and rising on the south slope of the watershed. The most noted are Scoon, rising in the Dwaasberg, a gold-bearing district, on which are situated the towns of Fenterdrop and Klarksdorp; Klip, Maquassie, and Bamber spruits. The other towns between Klarksdorp and Barkly are Bloemhof, Christiana, and Hebron, situated on its banks, the latter being the first town built on the river diggings after diamonds were discovered. The rivers on the south side drain the Orange Free State: the principal are the Rhinoster, Valsch, and Vet. The Vaal from Standerton down to Barkly, and beyond to its junction with the Orange, is very picturesque, well-wooded with fine timber, and bush on its banks, which are steep—the water has been known to rise forty feet without flooding its banks—many islands, with their rich foliage, particularly in the autumn, in April and May, when the lovely tints give great beauty to the river. Kimberley, the diamond centre, is twenty-five miles south-east from Barkly on the south side of the river. From Barkly the river flows for twenty-five miles in a north-westerly course, where the Harts river joins it. In this distance there were, and are now, several diamond-diggings, viz. Pniel, opposite Barkly, Waldick’s plant, Good Hope, Gong Gong, Kesi Kamma, and others. The Harts river rises in the Transvaal at two large fountains, with vleis at Lichtenburg, 26 degrees 22 minutes South latitude, 26 degrees 37 minutes East longitude, at an altitude of 6100 feet above sea-level, passing down south-west for 220 miles, enters the Vaal at Lekatlong Kaffir station, and also a mission station of the London Mission Society, passing through, in its winding course, an open grass country. On and near its banks are the native kraals Maamuosa, Taung, and Phokwane, as also Boetsap in Griqualand West. From the junction of the Harts to the junction of the Orange the Vaal flows south-west for sixty miles, through a hilly country, particularly at what is called the “Poort,” where the river enters a mountain district, and for seven miles the scenery is grand and wild, to within a short distance of Siffonel kraal, where formerly the chief Siffonello lived, and after 1869 it became a diamond-digging camp. At the junction of the Orange and Vaal the two rivers form a broad sheet of water, well-wooded on both banks, which is now the Orange, and flows west by south for eighty miles, through a hilly country, to the great bend near Prieska, which is on the colonial side of the river, then turns north-west for 120 miles, winding between lofty and rugged mountain scenery, with broad belts of wood on both banks, to a Griqua town, where Klaas Lucus lives, passing Bultfontein and Kheis, a Korunna village, and the extreme western boundary of Griqualand West. From Klaas Lucus the Orange flows in a westerly direction, with many extensive bends, for 380 miles, where it enters the South Atlantic Ocean, 28 degrees 40 minutes South latitude, 16 degrees 25 degrees East longitude. At Kakaman’s drift, thirty miles below the bend at Klaas Lucus, the ancient river Hygap enters it, which is the main stream that carries off the waters from the Kalahara desert, being the only outlet of the river system of that extensive region. At the junction of these two rivers a Korunna chief, Puffadder, had his head kraal—fifteen years ago.
The river from this point is very beautiful and grand; noble and lofty hills flank it on both sides. Many hundred islands, with dense bush, add immensely to the beauty of the country. Between the Hygap and the South Atlantic Ocean there are four rivers that drain the South Kalahara, the Nisbit, Aamo, Keikab, and the Great Fish river; the three former rise on the south side of the Brinus mountain, the latter is a large and extensive tributary of the Orange, being over 400 miles in length, rising in Damaraland in 22 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, flowing south through the desert, receiving in its course, on the western bank, many branches that rise in the mountain region of Great Namaqualand, the most important being the Amhup, Koros, Huntop, Chun, Oip, and Manobis, and enters the Orange river about ninety miles from its mouth. The total length of the Orange to the Vaal, and up that river to Lake Cressie, is 1110 miles. There are several cataracts and rapids on both the Orange and the Vaal, with long stretches of smooth water. The most extensive cataract is Aukrabies, below Kakaman’s drift, where there is a foil of nearly ninety feet. The ancient river system of the Kalahara desert, of which the Hygap is the outlet into the Orange, requires care to properly describe the peculiar formation of the several watercourses that intersect that extensive region, and from the magnitude of some of them show that at some remote period they were vast flowing rivers, whereas at the present time water is seldom seen in them. The upper or more northern fountains rise in Ovampoland, at an altitude of 3350 feet near the Omareru river, distant from the Orange river at the junction of the Hygap nearly 700 miles; 200 miles below the upper fountain of this river the elevation is 3200 feet; 130 miles to the south of this, at the junction of the Nosop river, the altitude is 2700 feet; and 160 miles following the course of the Nosop down south to the junction of the Molapo, along that river to the junction of the Kuruman river, the height is 2400 feet, which river receives the name of the Hygap; and 170 miles following that river due south to the junction of the Orange, the altitude is 1470 feet,—consequently there is a fall of 1880 feet from the fountains in Ovampoland to the Orange river. The Black and White Nosops join in the desert, forty miles to the east of Rhinoster vlei. They both rise on the eastern boundary of Damaraland, having many feeders from the mountain range 8000 feet above sea-level, flowing south and east to Narukus, where the Elephant river joins it, receiving its waters from the Limestone Peak, 4444 feet in altitude. Twenty miles below Narukus the river is called the Oup, which meanders in a south-east and south direction, and falls into the Molapo, twenty-four miles below the junction of that river and the Nosop. The distance of the upper springs of the Black and White Nosop to the Molapo is nearly 500 miles. Twenty miles below Narukus the Nosop separates from the Oup, and continues more to the east, which has already been described. Forty miles to the west of the junction of the Oup and Kuruman rivers is a large vlei, thirty-two miles in length, called Hogskin vlei, and in places from two to three miles broad. This vlei receives three small rivers, the Knaas, Snake, and Moi; their fountain-heads are in the hill district on the west, covered with bush and rugged in form. The country is very pretty and picturesque, with fine kameel-doorn trees, prickly thorns, and mimosa trees. On the east of this large vlei is an extensive salt-pan, but not used, as there are no inhabitants except Bushmen and Korannas. To the south is the Back river, which rises in those beautiful mountains known as the Brinus hills; from the topmost springs it flows in two directions, one to the Great Fish river, the other eastward past Liefdote, Tobas, and Klopper vlei, turns south-east, and enters the Hygap sixty miles above the Orange river, and seventeen miles below Swaart-Modder, where I built a stone house under the hanging cliff, in the dry bed of the Hygap. The other two rivers that complete this ancient river system are the Molapo or Mafeking, and the Kuruman. The former rises on the central watershed in the district of Molapo in Montsioa’s territory. The eye of this river is situated 26 degrees 7 minutes South latitude, 26 degrees 20 minutes East longitude, in a lovely wooded glen, 5350 feet above sea-level, and only ten miles from the main eye of the Molmane river that falls into the Limpopo basin; the watershed passing across the desert divides the two. From this fountain the Molapo turns westerly, passing Melemas and Macebe’s kraals, continuing in the same direction for 315 miles, joins the Nosop above described, and forms the main stream of which the Hygap is a continuation. The Setlakooly and Moretsane are the only branches of any size that drain the country in that long distance.
The Kuruman river rises south of the mission station of that name, flows west and enters the Hygap a few miles below the junction of the Oup, passing through a wild and broken country the last ninety miles of its course. The Hygap river from this point to the Orange is a broad and deep river, and from the lofty and perpendicular sandstone rocks, reaching in many places 200 feet in height at the bends, where the current acted upon them in its course down, it is evident that at a remote period it was a river of some magnitude; the force of water in many places has undermined the base of the cliffs, forming caves, that have been used by the early inhabitants as dwelling-places, and in one of which I erected a stone front to live in for a time when in that region many years ago.
At the fountain-heads of many of these desert rivers the springs are very powerful, but the water does not continue for any great distance above the sand in their beds, but sinks and percolates through the sand until it reaches the Orange river. Knowing this, I had very little difficulty in procuring water by digging a few feet into their beds, the sand in many places filling up the original beds eight to ten feet in depth. The water when procured was clear and cool. There are several rivers on the west coast that drain Damaraland, the country being so dry that rarely any water is found in them near the coast; Swakop is the most important, the mouth being in Walfish Bay, as also the Kuisip river, south of Swakop, which enters the south side of the above bay.
The rivers on the north are Omaruru, Ugab, Hubb. The northern boundary of Damaraland, the Cunene river, separates the Portuguese settlement, Benguela. And in Great Namaqualand is the Little Orange river which rises on the west slope of the mountain range, and enters the South Atlantic near Angra Peguena island, lately annexed by Germany, which completes the Orange and Vaal basin in South Central Africa. The rivers or branches of the south side of the Orange, which drain a large portion of the Cape Colony and Little Namaqualand west of the junction of the Vaal river, are the Ongar, which enters the Orange near Prieska, Hartebeest or Vish river, Pillans, and some small streams of no note. The country which these rivers pass through is wild and very hilly.