§ IV.
His return to the Portugals: invasions of diverse countries; abuses; flight from them and living in the woods diverse months; his strange boat, and coming to Loango.
[João Rodrigues Coutinho’s Campaign, 1602.]
Being departed from the Gagas I came to Masangano, where the Portugals have a town of garrison. There was at that time a new Governor, which was called Sienor Iuan Coutinho,[113] who brought authority to conquer the mines or mountains of Cambamba; and to perform that service the King of Spain had given him seven years’ custom off all the slaves and goods that were carried thence to the West Indies, Brazil, or whithersoever, with condition that he should build three castles, one in Demba,[114] which are the salt mines, the other in Cambamba, which are the silver mines, and the other in Bahia das Vaccas, or the Bay of Cows.
This gentleman was so bountiful at his coming that his fame was spread through all Congo, and many mulatoes and negroes came voluntarily to serve him. And being some six months in the city he marched to the Outaba of Tombo,[115] and there shipped his soldiers in pinnaces, and went up the river Consa or Coanza, and landed at the Outaba of Songo,[116] sixty miles from the sea. This lord Songo is next to Demba, where the salt-mines be. In this place there is such store of salt that most part of the country are perfect clear salt, without any earth or filth in it, and it is some three feet under the earth as it were ice; and they cut it out in stones of a yard long, and it is carried up into the country, and is the best commodity that a man can carry to buy anything whatsoever.
Here the Governor staid ten days, and sent a pinnace to Masangano for all the best soldiers that were there. So the captain of the castle sent me down among a hundred soldiers, and I was very well used by the Governor; and he made me a sergeant of a Portugal company, and then he marched to Machimba,[117] from thence to Cauo, and then to Malombe, a great lord. Here we were four days, and many lords came and obeyed us. From thence we marched to a mighty lord called Angoykayongo,[118] who stood in the defence of his country with more than sixty thousand men. So we met with him, and had the victory, and made a great slaughter among them. We took captives all his women and children, and settled ourselves in his town, because it was a very pleasant place, and full of cattle and victuals. And being eight days in this town the Governor sickened and died, and left a captain in his room to perform the service.
[Manuel Cerveira Pereira carries on the war.]
After we had been two months in the country of Angoykayongo we marched towards Cambambe, which was but three days’ journey, and came right against the Serras da Prata, and passed the river Coanza, and presently overran the country, and built a fort hard by the riverside. Here I served two years.
They opened the silver-mines, but the Portugals did not like of them as yet, because they yielded small share of silver.[119]
This new upstart governor was very cruel to his soldiers, so that all his voluntary men left him; and by this means he could go no further.
At this time there came news by the Jesuits that the Queen of England was dead, and that King James had made peace with Spain.[120] Then I made a petition to the Governor, who granted me licence to go into my country; and so I departed with the Governor and his train to the city of St. Paul. But he left five hundred soldiers in the fort of Cambambe, which they hold still.[121]
[A Trading Trip to Congo.]
Then I went with a Portugal merchant to the province of Bamba, and from thence to the Outeiro [“hill”], or city standing upon a mountain of Congo,[122] from thence to Gongon[123] and Batta,[124] and there we sold our commodities and returned in six months to the city [Loanda] again.
[Final Escape from Captivity.]
Then I purposed to have shipped myself for Spain, and thence homewards. But the Governor denied his word, and commanded me to provide myself within two days to go up to the Conquest again. This Governor had served his three years,[125] and the citizens looked every day for another out of Portugal. So I determined to absent myself for ten or twenty days, till the other Governor came, and then to come to the city again. For every Governor that cometh maketh proclamation for all men that be absent, to come with free pardon.
The same day, at night, I departed from the city with two negro boys that I had, which carried my musket and six pounds of powder, and a hundred bullets, and that little provision of victuals that I could make. In the morning I was some twenty miles from the city, up along the river Bengo, and there I staid certain days, and then passed Bengo and came to the river Dande, which is to the northward, purposing to know what news was in the city, for I was near the highway of Congo. And one of my negroes inquired of those that passed, and brought me word that it was certain that the new Governor came not that year.
Now I was put to my shifts, whether I would go to the city again and be hanged, or to stay and live in the woods, for I had run away twice before. So I was forced to live in the woods a month, betwixt the rivers of Dande and Bengo. Then I went to Bengo again, to Mani Kaswea, and passed over the river, and went to the lake of Casansa.[126] Here is the greatest store of wild beasts that is in any place of Angola. About this lake I staid six months, and lived only upon dried flesh, as buffes [buffaloes], deer, mokokes,[127] impolancas,[128] and roebucks, and other sorts, which I killed with my musket, and dried the flesh, as the savages do, upon an hurdle, three feet from the ground, making underneath it a great fire, and laying upon the flesh green boughs, which keep the smoke and heat of the fire down, and dry it. I made my fire with two little sticks, as the savages used to do. I had sometimes Guinea wheat [maize] which my negro boy would get of the inhabitants for pieces of dried flesh.
This lake of Casanze doth abound with fish of sundry sorts. I have taken up a fish that hath skipped out of the water on shore, four feet long, which the heathen call Sombo.[129]
Thus, after I had lived six months with the dried flesh and fish, and seeing no end of my misery, I wrought means to get away.
In this lake are many little island that are full of trees called Memba [bimba][130] which are as light as cork and as soft. Of these trees I built a lergado [Jangada], with a knife of the savages that I had, in the fashion of a box nailed with wooden pegs, and railed round about, because the sea should not wash me out; and with a blanket that I had I made a sail, and prepared three oars to row withall.
This lake of Casanza is eight miles over, and issueth into the river Bengo. So I entered into my gingado [Jangada], and my two negro boys, and rowed into the river Bengo, and so came down with the current twelve leagues to the bar. Here I was in great danger, because the sea was great; and being over the bar I rode into the sea, and then sailed afore the wind along the coast, which I knew well, minding to go to the kingdom of Longo [Loango], which is towards the north; and being that night at sea, the next day I saw a pinnace come before the wind, which came from the city, and was bound to San Thomé, and she came near to me. The master was my great friend, for we had been mates together, and for pity’s sake he took me in, and set me on shore in the port of Longo, where I remained three years, and was well beloved of the king, because I killed him deer and fowls with my musket.
§ V.
Of the Province of Engoy [Ngoyo], and other Regions of Loango, with the Customs there observed by the King and People.
[Kabinda.]
From the Point of the Palmar [Ponta do Palmar],[131] which is the north side of the river Zaire, is the port of Cabenda [Kabinda],[132] where many ships use to water and refresh themselves; and it is five leagues northwards. This place is called, Engoy [Ngoyo], and is the first province of Longo [Loango], and is full of woods and thickets. And seven leagues northwards of that place is the river Cacongo,[133] a very pleasant place and fruitful. Here is great stock of elephants’ teeth, and a boat of ten tons may go up the river.
The Mombales[134] have great trade with them, and pass the river Zaire in the night, because then it is calm, and carry great store of elephants’ teeth to the town of Mani Sonna [Sonyo], and sell them in the port of Pinda to the Portugals, or any other stranger that first cometh.[135]
At four leagues from Cacongo is the river of Caye, or Longo Leuyes.[136] This town of Caye [Kaia] is one of the four seats or lordships of Longo. And then the Angra, or Gulf, das Almadias.[137] In this gulf, or bay, are great store of canoes or fishermen, because the sea is smoother there than upon the coast. And two leagues northward is the port of Longo [Loango]. And it is a sandy bay, and a ship may ride within a musket-shot of the shore in four or five fathoms.
[The Capital of Loango.]
The town of Mani Longo is three miles from the waterside, and standeth on a great plain. This town is full of palm and plantain-trees and very fresh, and their houses are built under the trees. The streets are wide and long, and always clean swept. The King hath his houses on the west side, and before his door he hath a plain, where he sitteth, when he has any feastings or matters of wars to treat of. From this plain there goeth a great wide street, some musket-shot from the place; and there is a great market every day, and it doth begin at twelve of the clock.
Here is great store of palm-cloths of sundry sorts, which is their merchandizes; and a great store of victuals, flesh, hens, fish, wine, oil, and corn. Here is also very fine log wood,[138] which they use to dye withall—it is the root of the log wood which is the best—and molangos[139] of copper. Here is likewise great store of elephants’ teeth, but they sell none in the market-place.
[A Royal Audience.]
The King hath ten great houses, and is never certain to be found but in the afternoon, when he cometh to sit. And then he keepeth always [to] one house. The house is very long, and at twelve of the clock it is full of noblemen. They sit upon carpets upon the ground. The house is always full of people till midnight.
The last king, Gembe [Njimbe],[140] never used to speak in the day, but always in the night. But this king speaketh in the day: howbeit he spendeth most of the day with his wives. And when the king cometh in he goeth to the upper end of the house, where he hath his seat, as it were a throne. And when the king is set, they clap their hands and salute him, saying in their language: Byani Pemba, Ampola, Moneya, Quesinge.[141]
[The King’s Wives.][142]
On the south side of the king’s houses he hath a circuit [compound] or village, where his wives dwell, and in this circuit no man may come on pain of death. He hath in this place one hundred and fifty wives and more. And if any man be taken within this circuit, if he be with a woman, or do but speak to her, they be both brought into the market-place and their heads be cut off, and their bodies quartered, and lie one day in the street. The last king Gymbe [Njimbi], had four hundred children by his women.
[The King Drinks!]
When the king drinketh he hath a cup of wine brought, and he that bringeth it hath a bell in his hand, and as soon as he hath delivered the cup to the king, he turneth his face from the king and ringeth the bell; and then all that be there fall down upon their faces, and rise not till the king have drunk. And this is very dangerous for any stranger that knoweth not the fashions, for if any seeth the king drink he is presently killed, whatsoever he be. There was a boy of twelve years, which was the king’s son. This boy chanced to come unadvisedly when his father was in drinking. Presently the king commandeth he should be well apparelled and victuals prepared. So the youth did eat and drink. Afterward the king commandeth that he should be cut in quarters and carried about the city, with proclamation that he saw the king drink.[143]
[The King at Dinner.][144]
Likewise for his diet, when it is dinner-time, there is a house of purpose, where he always eateth, and there his diet is set upon a bensa,[145] like a table. Then he goeth in, and hath the door shut. So when he hath eaten, then he knocketh and cometh out. So that none see the king eat nor drink. For it is their belief, that if he be seen eating or drinking, he shall presently die. And this is an order with all kings that now are, or shall succeed, unless they abolish this cruel custom.
[The King as a Rain-maker.]
The king is so honoured as though he were a god among them, and is called Sambe and Pongo,[146] that is God. And they believe that he can give them rain when he listeth. So once a year, when it is time to rain, that is in December, the people come to beg rain and bring their gifts to the king, for none come empty.[147] Then he appointeth the day, and all the lords far and near come to the feast with all their troops, as they go in the wars. And when all the troops of men be before the king, the greatest Lord cometh forthwith his bows and arrows, and sheweth his skill with his weapon; and then he hath a merry conceit or jest that he speaketh before the king, and kneeleth at his feet; and then the king thanketh him for his love; and in like manner they do all.
The king sitteth abroad in a great place, and hath a carpet spread upon the ground, which is some fifteen fathoms about, of fine ensacks,[148] which are wrought like velvet, and upon the carpet his seat, which is a fathom from the ground. Then he commanded his Dembes [Ndamba][149] to strike up, which are drums, so great, that they cannot carry them, and others that are very great. He hath also eight Pongos,[150] which are his waits, made of the greatest elephants’ teeth, and are hollowed and scraped light, which play also. And with the drums and waits they make an hellish noise. After they have sported and shewed the king pleasure, he ariseth and standeth upon his throne, and taketh a bow and arrows in his hand, and shooteth to the sky; and that day there is great rejoicing, because sometimes they have rain. I was once there when the king gave rain, and it chanced that day to rain mightily, which made the people have a great belief in their folly.[151]
[Albinos.]
Here are sometimes born in this country white children, which is very rare among them, for their parents are negroes. And when any of them are born, they are presented unto the king and are called Dondos [Ndundu].[152] These are as white as any white man. These are the king’s witches, and are brought up in witchcraft, and always wait on the king. There is no man that dare meddle with these Dondos. If they go to the market they may take what they list, for all men stand in awe of them. The King of Longo had four of them.
[The Nkishi, or Fetishes.]
The king also is a witch, and believeth in two idols which are in Longo. The one is called Mokisso à Longo, the other is called Checocke.[153] This last is a little black image, and standeth in a little house at a village called Kinga, which standeth in the landing-place of Longo. This house of Checocke standeth in the highway, and they that go by clap their hands, which is the courtesy of the country. Those that be craftsmen, as fishermen, hunters, and witches, do offer to this idol, that they may have good luck. This Checocke doth sometimes in the night come and haunt some of his best beloved: sometimes a man, sometimes a boy or a woman. And then they be frantic for the space of three hours; and whatsoever the frantic person speaketh, that is the will of Checocke. And they make a great feast and dancing at his house.[154]
There is another Mokisso which is also in Kinga, and it is called Gomberi. It is the name of a woman, and is in a house where an old witch dwelleth, and she is called Ganga Gomberi, which is, the Priest of Gomberi. Here once a year is a feast made, and Ganga Gomberi speaketh under the ground.[155] And this is a common thing every year. I have asked the negroes what it was, and they told me that it was a strong Mokisso that is come to abide with Checocke.
[Children are born White.]
The children in this country are born white, and change their colour in two days to a perfect black. As, for example, the Portugals, which dwell in the kingdom of Congo, have sometimes children by the negro women, and many times the fathers are deceived, thinking when the child is born it is theirs, and within two days it proveth the son or daughter of a negro; which the Portugals do greatly grieve at, for they rejoice when they have a mulato child, though it be a bastard.
[The Royal Princes.]
The town of Longo [Loango] standeth in the midst of four Lordships, and is governed by four Princes, which are the King’s sisters’ sons, for the King’s sons can never be kings. The first is Mani Cabango,[156] the second Mani Salag, the third Mani Bock, the fourth Mani Cay. This Mani Cay is next to be king, and hath his train and court as a Prince. And when the King dieth he cometh presently into the seat of the King. Then, Mani Bock cometh to Cay, Mani Salag cometh to Bock, and Mani Cabango cometh to Salag. And then they provide another to go to Cabango, so there be four Princes that wait on the King when their turns come.
[The Kings Mother.]
The mother of these Princes is called Mani Lombo,[157] and she is the highest and chief woman in all the land. She maketh choice of her husband, and when she is weary of him she putteth him away, and taketh another. Her children are greatly honoured, and whosoever passeth by them kneel down and clap their hands, which is the courtesy of the country.
These Lordships are champaign grounds, and full of corn and fruit.
[Palm Cloth.][158]
The men in this kingdom make good store of palm-cloth of sundry sorts, very fine and curious. They are never idle: for they make fine caps of needlework as they go in the streets.
[The Royal Tombs.]
There is a place two leagues from the town of Longo, called Longeri,[159] where all their kings be buried, and it is compassed round about with elephants’ teeth pitched in the ground, as it were a Pale, and it is ten roods in compass.
[Europeans Committed to the Sea.]
These people will suffer no white man to be buried in their land,[160] and if any stranger or Portugal come thither to trade, and chance to die, he is carried in a boat two miles from the shore, and cast into the sea. There was once a Portugal gentleman, that came to trade with them, and had his house on shore. This gentleman died, and was buried some four months. That year it did not rain so soon as it was wont, which beginneth about December, so that they lacked rain for some two months. Then their mokisso told them that the Christian, which was buried, must be taken out of the earth, and cast into the sea; and within three days it rained, which made them have a great belief in the devil.