| PAGE |
| CHAPTER I. | |
| Down the Danube from Buda-Pest—Amusements on board the
steamer—Basiash—Drive to Oravicza by Weisskirchen—Ladies of
Oravicza—Gipsy music—Finding an old school-fellow—The
czardas. | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| Consequences of trying to buy a horse—An expedition into
Servia—Fine scenery—The peasants of New Moldova—Szechenyi
road—Geology of the defile of Kasan—Crossing the
Danube—Milanovacz—Drive to Maidenpek—Fearful storm in the
mountains—Miserable quarters for the night—Extent of this
storm—The disastrous effects of the same storm at
Buda-Pest—Great loss of life. | [15] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| Maidenpek—Well-to-do condition of Servians—Lady Mary Wortley
Montague's journey through Servia—Troubles in
Bulgaria—Communists at Negotin—Copper mines—Forest
ride—Robbers on the road—Kucainia—Belo-breska—Across the
Danube—Detention at customhouse—Weisskirchen—Sleeping
Wallacks. | [33] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| Variety of races in Hungary—Wallacks or
Roumains—Statistics—Savage outbreak of the Wallacks in former
years—Panslavic ideas—Roumanians and their origin—Priests of
the Greek Church—Destruction of forests—Spirit of
Communism—Incendiary fires. | [46] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| Paraffine-works in Oravicza—Gold mine—Coal mines at
Auima-Steirdorf—Geology—States Railway Company's
mines—Bribery | [54] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| Mineral wealth of the Banat—Wild ride to Dognacska—Equipment
for a riding tour—An afternoon nap and its consequences—Copper
mines—Self-help—Rare insects—Moravicza—Rare
minerals—Deutsch Bogsan—Reschitza | [58] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| Election at Oravicza—Officialism—Reforms—Society—Ride to
Szaszka—Fine views—Drenkova—Character of the
Serbs—Svenica—Rough night walk through the forest | [70] |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| Hospitable welcome at Uibanya—Excursion to the Servian side of
the Danube—Ascent of the Stierberg—Bivouac in the
woods—Magnificent views towards the Balkans—Fourteen eagles
disturbed—Wallack dance | [83] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| A hunting expedition proposed—Drive from Uibanya to
Orsova—Oriental aspect of the market-place—Cserna
Valley—Hercules-Bad, Mehadia—Post-office mistakes—Drive to
Karansebes—Rough customers en route—Lawlessness—Fair at
Karansebes—Podolian cattle—Ferocious dogs | [90] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| Post-office at Karansebes—Good headquarters for a
sportsman—Preparations for a week in the mountains—The party
starting for the hunt—Adventures by the way—Fine
trees—Game—Hut in the forest—Beauty of the scenery in the
Southern Carpathians | [104] |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| Chamois and bear hunting—First battue—Luxurious dinner 5000
feet above the sea-level—Storm in the night—Discomforts—The
bear's supper—The eagle's breakfast—Second and third day's
shooting—Baking a friend as a cure for fever—Striking
camp—View into Roumania | [118] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| Back at Mehadia—Troubles about a carriage—An unexpected night
on the road—Return to Karansebes—On horseback through the Iron
Gate Pass—Varhely, the ancient capital of Dacia—Roman
remains—Beauty of the Hatszeg Valley | [131] |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| Hungarian hospitality—Wallack laziness—Fishing—"Settled
gipsies"—Anecdote—Old régime—Fire—Old Roman bath—The
avifauna of Transylvania—Fly-fishing | [140] |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| On horseback to Petrosèny—A new town—Valuable
coal-fields—Killing fish with dynamite and poison—Singular
manner of repairing roads—Hungarian patriotism—Story of
Hunyadi Janos—Intrusion of the Moslems into Europe | [152] |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
| Hunting for a guide—School statistics—Old times—Over the
mountains to Herrmannstadt—Night in the open—Nearly setting
the forest on fire—Orlat | [160] |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
| Herrmannstadt—Saxon immigrants—Museum—Places of interest in
the neighbourhood—The fortress-churches—Heltau—The Rothen
Thurm Pass—Turkish incursions | [173] |
| CHAPTER XVII. | |
| Magyar intolerance of the German—Patriotic revival of the
Magyar language—Ride from Herrmannstadt to Kronstadt—The
village of Zeiden—Curious scene in church—Reformation in
Transylvania—Political bitterness between Saxons and Magyars in
1848 | [184] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. | |
| Political difficulties—Impatient criticism of
foreigners—Hungary has everything to do—Tenant-farmers
wanted—Wages | [195] |
| CHAPTER XIX. | |
| Want of progress amongst the Saxons—The
Burzenland—Kronstadt—Mixed character of its
inhabitants—Szeklers—General Bem's campaign | [199] |
| CHAPTER XX. | |
| The Tomöscher Pass—Projected railway from Kronstadt to
Bucharest—Visit to the cavalry barracks at Rosenau—Terzburg
Pass—Dr Daubeny on the extinct volcanoes of Hungary—Professor
Judd on mineral deposits | [209] |
| CHAPTER XXI. | |
| A ride through Szeklerland—Warnings about robbers—Büksad—A
look at the sulphur deposits on Mount Büdos—A lonely lake—An
invitation to Tusnad | [219] |
| CHAPTER XXII. | |
| The baths of Tusnad—The state of affairs before
1848—Inequality of taxation—Reform—The existing land
laws—Communal property—Complete registration of titles to
estates—Question of entail | [232] |
| CHAPTER XXIII. | |
| Fine scenery in Szeklerland—Csik Szent Marton—Absence of
inns—The Szekler's love of lawsuits—Csik Szereda—Hospitality
along the road—Wallack atrocities in 1848—The Wallacks not
Panslavists | [243] |
| CHAPTER XXIV. | |
| Ride to Szent Domokos—Difficulty about quarters—Interesting
host—Jewish question in Hungary—Taxation—Financial matters | [252] |
| CHAPTER XXV. | |
| Copper mine of Balanbanya—Miners in the wine-shop—Ride to St
Miklos—Visit to an Armenian family—Capture of a robber—Cold
ride to the baths of Borsék | [260] |
| CHAPTER XXVI. | |
| Moldavian frontier—Tölgyes—Excitement about robbers—Attempt
at extortion—A ride over the mountains—Return to St Miklos | [275] |
| CHAPTER XXVII. | |
| Toplicza—Armenian hospitality—A bear-hunt—A ride over to the
frontier of Bukovina—Destruction of timber—Maladministration
of State property—An unpleasant night on the
mountain—Snowstorm | [282] |
| CHAPTER XXVIII. | |
| Visits at Transylvanian châteaux—Society—Dogs—Amusements at
Klausenburg—Magyar poets—Count Istvan Széchenyi—Baron
Eötvos—'The Village Notary'—Hungarian self-criticism—Literary
taste | [291] |
| CHAPTER XXIX. | |
| A visit at Schloss B———National characteristics—Robber
stories—Origin of the "poor lads"—Audacity of the
robbers—Anecdote of Deák and the housebreaker—Romantic story
of a robber chief | [302] |
| CHAPTER XXX. | |
| Return to Buda-Pest—All-Souls' Day—The cemetery—Secret burial
of Count Louis Batthyanyi—High rate of mortality at Buda-Pest | [315] |
| CHAPTER XXXI. | |
| Skating—Death and funeral of Deák—Deák's policy—Uneasiness
about the rise of the Danube—Great excitement about
inundations—The capital in danger—Night scene on the
embankment—Firing the danger-signal—The great calamity averted | [321] |
| CHAPTER XXXII. | |
| Results of the Danube inundations—State of things at
Baja—Terrible condition of New Pest—Injuries sustained by the
island garden of St. Marguerite—Charity organisation | [335] |
| CHAPTER XXXIII. | |
| Expedition to the Marmaros Mountains—Railways in Hungary—The
train stopping for a rest—The Alföld—Shepherds of the
plain—Wild appearance of the Rusniacks—Slavs of Northern
Hungary—Marmaros Szigeth—Difficulty in slinging a hammock—The
Jews of Karasconfalu—Soda manufactory at Boeska—Romantic
scenery—Salt mines—Subterranean lake | [339] |
| CHAPTER XXXIV. | |
| The Tokay district—Visit at Schloss G———Wild-boar
hunting—Incidents of the chase | [355] |
| CHAPTER XXXV. | |
| Tokay vineyards—The vine-grower's difficulties—Geology of the
Hegyalia—The Pope's compliment to the wine of Tállya—Towns of
the Hegyalia—Farming—System of wages at harvest—The different
sorts of Tokay wine | [364] |
| [Map of the Banat and Transylvania with Mr Crosse's route.] | |