EMBROIDERY ON CAMBRIC.
[Fig. 1.]
SUITABLE FOR THE CORNER OF A HANDKERCHIEF.
Materials.—Ingrain red and white embroidery cotton, No. 80.
The design may be traced on the cambric from that given in the Engraving, and then worked in raised satin stitch; the flowers (excepting the calyxes) in red cotton, and the leaves, stems, and calyxes in white. The little dots in the flowers are raised.
[Fig. 2.]
TO CONTAIN INITIALS.
Materials.—Either the same as in the proceeding, or white embroidery cotton only. For a morning handkerchief, it would look very well in scarlet, the initials only being in white. The little rounds in this design are eyelet-holes very neatly sewed over.
KNITTED LACE COLLAR.
[Fig. 3.]
Materials.—Cotton, No. 40; needles, No. 24. Cast on fifteen stitches.
1st Row.—Knit 2, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, k. 2, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2, slip 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over.
2nd, and every alternate row.—Purl all but two, and knit them plain.
3rd.—Knit 2, m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over the knitted, k. 1, m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 1, slip 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over.
5th.—Knit 2, m. 1, k. 5, m. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 5, m. 1, slip 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over.
7th.—Knit 4, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, k. 2, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, k. 2, m. 1, k. 1.
9th.—Knit 3, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, k. 1, m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2.
11th.—Knit 2, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 5, m. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 3.
12th.—As 2nd. Repeat until sufficient is done, then trim it with lace. Take up the stitches at the neck. Knit one row, taking two together every ten. Knit a few rows more and cast off.
For the edging, the same materials. Cast on sixteen stitches, and knit one plain row.
1st.—Knit 2, ✕ m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ twice, k. 2, * m. 1, k. 2 t., * 3 times, m. 1, k. 2.
2nd.—Pearl 11, k. 6.
3rd.—Knit 2, ✕ m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ twice, k. 3, * m. 1, k. 2 t., * 3 times, m. 1, k. 2.
4th.—Pearl 12, k. 6.
5th.—Knit 2, ✕ m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ twice, k. 2, m. 1, k. 2, * m. 1, k. 2 t., * 3 times, m. 1, k. 2.
6th.—Pearl 14, k. 6.
7th.—Knit 2, + m. 1, k. 2 t., + twice, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, * m. 1, k. 2 t., * 3 times, m. 1, k. 2.
8th.—Pearl 15, k. 6.
9th.—Knit 2, + m. 1, k. 2 t., + twice, k. 1, m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, * m. 1, k. 2 t., * 3 times, m. 1, k. 2.
10th.—Pearl 16, k. 6.
11th.—Knit 2, + m. 1, k. 2 t., + twice, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 9.
12th.—Knit 1, ✕, k. 2 t., m. 1, ✕ 4 times, p. 7, k. 6.
13th.—Knit 2, ✕ m. 1, k. 2, ✕ twice, k. 2, m. 1, k. 3 t., m. 1, k. 11.
14th.—Knit 1, k. 2 t., ✕ m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ 4 times, p. 5, k. 6.
15th.—Knit 2, + m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ twice, k. 1, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 10.
16th.—Knit 1, k. 2 t., ✕ m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ 4 times, p. 3, k. 6.
17th.—Knit 2, ✕ m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ twice, k. 13.
18th.—Like 16th, but purl 2.
19th.—Knit 2, + m. 1, k. 2 t., + twice, k. 2 t., k. 10.
20th.—Like 16th, without purling any.
21st.—Knit 2, ✕ m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ twice, k. 10.
22nd.—Plain knitting.
Repeat as often as may be required.
I may observe that this Edging is well suited for the trimming of a counterpane, or any similar large piece of work. It should, of course, be knitted in suitable materials.
SPANISH CROCHET EDGING
[Fig. 4.]
Materials.—Cotton, No. 16; crochet hook, No. 18; eagle card-board gauge.
29 ch., turn, sc. in 15th, 5 ch., slip into the same stitches, ✕ 7 ch., miss 4, sc. in 5th, 5 ch., slip into the same, ✕ twice, 7 ch., sc. in 1st ch.—this forms the foundation. You will now begin to work the pattern.
1st.—Turn the work, 7 ch., sc. under last 7, 5 ch., slip on the sc. stitch, ✕ 7 ch., sc. under next loop, 5 ch., slip on the sc. stitch, ✕ 3 times, 5 ch., sc. under the same loop.
2nd.—Turn the work, and slip 3 on 3 of the last 5 ch., + 7 ch., sc. under the next loop, 5 ch., slip on sc. stitch, + 3 times, 7 ch., sc. under last loop.
3rd.—Turn the work, ✕ 7 ch., sc., under the next loop, 5 ch., slip on sc. stitch, ✕ 4 times, 4 ch., 3 dc. under the same loop, 3 ch., 1 dc. in the last of the 3 slip of the preceding row, 4 ch., 1 dc. in the first of the 3 slip, 3 ch., 2 dc. and 1 sc. in the first loop of the foundation.
4th.—Turn the work, 3 ch., 3 dc. under first loop, 3 ch., 4 dc. under next, 3 ch., 3 dc. under next, 3 ch., 1 sc. under next, + 7 ch., sc. under next loop, 5 ch., slip through sc. stitch, + 3 times, 7 ch., sc. under the last loop.
As Dentelles de Laine are at present such fashionable trimmings for aprons, dresses, and mantles, our friends would find such an edging as the above, done in black or colored Pyrenees wool, far more beautiful and economical than anything they can purchase. It may also be done in crochet, or netting silks, and would then be a most elegant trimming for the Mandarin sleeves, and berthes of dresses.
When fine cotton edging is desired use No. 30, and crochet hook 20 or 21.
COLLAR IN FRIVOLITE.
[Fig. 5.]
Materials.—Bobbinet and fancy ditto, for the foundation of the collar. For the Frivolite, use Tatting-cotton, No. 3.
Cut out two collars, one in each kind of net, and connect them by a line of close button-hole stitch at the distance of an inch-and-a-quarter from the outer edge and ends. Then cut off the inner part of the fancy net and the outer of the plain, leaving thus one complete collar composed of two kinds of net.
Make in Frivolite twenty-five stars of eight loops each, all drawn up as closely as possible. The loops should consist of about twenty double stitches each; make also twenty-four eyelet-holes in Tatting; sew the stars and eyelet-holes alternate on the line of button-hole stitch, beginning and ending with a star. Then make as many loops (all at a distance from each other) as may be necessary to cover the plain net in the manner seen in the Engraving; sew them on along the lines of thread.
For the border, do a length of Tatting in alternate single and trefoil loops, with a small piece of thread between each; and, after whipping the net, sew the Tatting on. The corner trefoils should be larger than the others.
A narrow band of net may be put on the neck.
Ladies who prefer Crochet to Tatting, may work any pattern given for Frivolite in their favorite manner, by substituting dc. stitches instead of the double tatting stitches.
For working eyelet-holes in Crochet, I refer my readers to the instructions for the Anti-Macassar, in Part V. of this work.
COLLAR IN FRIVOLITE.
[Fig. 6.]
Materials.—Tatting-cotton, No. 3; shuttle and pin.
Make 22 trefoils thus: 18 double stitches for each loop, which must be drawn up quite tightly; three of these form a trefoil.
Make 22 trefoils, of 15 double stitches, in the same manner for the next row; and then a similar set of 12, 9, and 6 double stitches in each loop. Sew the trefoil of a collar of fancy net; put on 2 rows of tatted purled edging, as indicated in the Engraving, finish last line of Trefoils with a tatted round, and sew a muslin band round the neck.
FISH CLOTH.
[Fig. 7.]
Materials.—Cotton of the following colors: two reels white, two green, one dark blue, one light blue, one black, one lemon color. The colors will be indicated throughout by their respective initials. The cotton should be Nos. 10 or 12, and a very small quantity of Evans’s boar’s-head, No. 40; hooks, Nos. 10 and 20; eagle card-board gauge.
Begin by making the lemon slices thus:—with cotton, No. 40; hook, No. 20, make 1 chain of 12; close it into a loop, and work it all round in dc., taking the stitches under the chain. Do this four times, when all the pips will be made. With the yellow cotton, work a chain, connecting all these from point to point, in a circle. Work a round of white in the yellow, with two tc. stitches in every chain. Then a round of tc. in yellow on the white, with two stitches in every alternate one. This completes one lemon slice. Four of them must be made and sewed on the corners of the fish cloth after it is completed. The pips only are to be done with a fine needle and fine cotton.
With the coarse white cotton, and hook, No. 10, make a chain of 116; work eight rows in open square crochet.
9th.—17 os. in white, 1 dc. in dark blue, 3 dc. in light blue, 2 ch. in white, 2 dc. light blue, 18 open squares in white. Observe that in future rows the colors will be indicated by their respective initials.
10th.—17 os. w., 1 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 2 ch. w., 3 dc. l. b., 18 os. w.
11th.—17 os. w., 2 dc. d. b., 3 dc. l. b 2, dc. w., ? dc. l. b., 17 os. w.
12th.—16 os. w., 3 dc. d., 2 dc. l. b., 2 dc. b., (to form the eye), ? dc. w., 4 dc. l. b., 17 os. w.
13th.—16 os. w., 4 dc. d. b., 3 dc. l. b., 4 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b., 17 os. w.
14.—16 os. w., 4 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 4 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b., 16 os. w.
15th.—15 os. w., 4 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 5 dc. w., 4 dc. l. b., 1 dc. d. b., 15 os., w.
16th.—15 os. w., 4 dc. d. b., 3 dc. l. b., 6 dc. w., 2 dc. l. b., 1 dc. d. b., 3 dc. l. b., 1 ch. w.; open squares in white to the end.
17th.—15 os. w., 4 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 6 dc. w., 1 dc. l. b., 6 dc. l. b.; open squares in white to the end.
18th.—14 os. w., ending with one chain, 4 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., dc. w., 2 dc. d. b., 1 dc. w., 6 dc. l. b.; finish with os. in white.
19th.—14 os. w., 4 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 11 dc. w., 6 dc. l. b.; open squares to the end in white.
20th—14 os. w., 4 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 13 dc. w., 6 dc. l. b.; finish with open squares in white.
21st and 22nd.—Like 20.
23rd.—13 os. w., 1 ch, w., 3 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 15 dc. w., 7 dc. l. b.; open squares in white to the end.
24th.—13 os. w., 3 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 17 dc. w., 6 dc. l. b.; finish with white in os.
25th.—Begin on the first, leaving out the open squares. 3 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 19 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b.
26th to 31st inclusive.—The same. Now turn back to the twenty-fifth row, and begin a chain in the last stitch of the light blue for the fin; let the chain be composed of twelve stitches; on that chain, work 2 sc., 3 dc., 7 tc.; turn, and work 7 dc., 2 sc., which will make it even with the row above, if the three last stitches are missed along this; work a row of sc. to unite it to the fish, as in the Engraving. Then work open squares in white from the row you first missed, then to the last, that is, the thirty-first row. Do the same on the other side of the fish, taking care that the lower fin reaches a little lower than the upper one. Begin the second fin on the twenty-sixth row.
32nd.—13 os. w., 1 ch. w., 4 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 17 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b; finish with open squares in white.
33rd.—13 os. w., 2 ch. w., 4 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 15 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b; finish as before.
34th.—14 os. w., 3 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 13 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b.; finish as before.
35th.—14 os. w., 3 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 11 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b.; finish as before.
36th.—14 os. w., 1 ch. w., 3 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 9 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b.; finish with white os.
37th.—15 os. w., 3 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 7 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b.; finish with white open squares.
38th.—15 os. w., 1 ch. w., 3 dc. d. b., 5 dc. l. b., 5 dc. w., 5 dc. l. b.; finish with white os.
39th.—The same.
40th.—15 os. w., 2 ch. w., 3 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 5 dc. w., 3 dc. l. b., 2 dc. 2 ch. w.; open squares in white to the end.
41st.—16 os. w., 2 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 5 dc. w., 2 dc. l. b., 2 ch.; open squares in white to the end.
42nd.—15 os. w., 1 ch. w., 2 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 7 dc. w., 2 dc. l. b.; open squares in white to the end.
43rd.—15 os. w., 2 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 9 dc. w., 2 dc. l. b.; finish with open squares to the end.
44th.—14 open squares in white, 2 dc. d. b., 4 dc. l. b., 4 dc. w., 2 dc. l. b., 5 dc. w., 2 dc. l. b.; open squares in white at the end.
45th.—14 open squares in white, 2 dc. d. b., 3 dc. l. b., 5 dc. w., 1 dc. l. b., 2 ch. w.;, 1 dc. l. b., 6 dc. w., 1 dc. l. b., 1 ch.; and open squares to the end in white.
46th.—14 os. w., 2 dc. d. b., 3 dc. l. b., 4 dc. w., dc. l. b., 1 ch., 1 dc., 2 ch., 1 dc., 1 ch., all in white, 1 dc. l. b., 4 dc. w., 1 dc. l. b., 1 ch. and os. in white.
47th.—14 os. w., 1 ch. w., 2 dc. d. b., 1 dc. l. b., 3 dc. w., 1 dc. l. b., 2 ch., 1 dc.. 2 ch., 1 dc.. 2 ch., all in white, 1 dc. l. b., 2 dc. w., 1 dc. l. b., 2 ch. and open squares to the end in white.
48th.—14 os. w., 1 ch. w., 2 dc. d. b., 1 dc. l. b., 1 dc. w., 1 dc. l. b., ✕ 2 ch., 1 dc. ✕ 4 times, and 2 ch., w., 1 dc. l. b., 2 dc. w., 1 dc. l. b., 1 ch., and open squares to the end in white. Finish with eight rows of open squares in white cotton.
For the border, for which the green cotton is to be used:
Make a chain of 16, turn, miss 2, 2 sc., 3 dc., 4 tc., 3 dc., 2 sc., 1 ch., turn; work the same on the other side of the chain of 16, and fasten off.
This completes one leaf; let as many be done as may be required to go all round the D’oyley, rather more than twice. Then, with fine green cotton, sew the points of some, at regular intervals, round the Fish Cloth. Make a chain all round, connecting the base of the leaves at regular intervals. On the chain, work a row of sc., connecting the ends of the remaining leaves for the outer row.
Or the leaves might be made with a chain of 5 between each; the second row of leaves being worked on the other side.