INTRODUCTION.
In commencing our instructions in Crochet Work in all its variations, we supply what certainly is a great want in the American Household, where some sort of fancy work is essential to the completion of those domestic circles which render an American home so cheerful. In giving those general directions regarding terms and stitches, which will, we trust, prove acceptable, we have endeavored to be as concise and clear as the nature of the subject will admit.
“The Ladies’ Complete Guide to Crochet and Needlework,” may therefore be regarded as a compendium both of choice and accurate receipts and of clear elementary instruction.
We will begin by giving those which are required for Crochet, and beg our fair readers to refer to them on any future occasion of doubt or difficulty.
Chain Stitch (abbreviated into ch.) is the foundation stitch in crochet. A loop of thread made on the hook, and through this the thread is drawn, forming the first chain stitch; draw the thread through this one, and a second is formed. Continue the process until you have done the required number.
Slip Stitch (sl.) is a stitch chiefly used for the veinings of leaves, and similar parts, in imitations of Honiton lace. It serves, also, to carry the thread from one part to another, without either breaking it off or widening the work. Insert the hook in the stitch next to that already on the needle (unless the directions particularly say, miss so many,) and draw the thread at once through both stitches. Repeat.
Single Crochet (sc.)—Insert the hook in the chain, and draw the thread through it; this forms a second loop on the hook. Draw the thread through these two by a single movement and the stitch will be completed.
Double Crochet (dc.)—Raise the thread over the hook, so as to pass it round, before inserting the latter in the chain; draw the thread through, and you will find three loops on the hook; bring the cotton through two, which makes one instead of those taken off. Thus two are still on the needle; finish the stitch by drawing the thread through these.
Treble Crochet (tc.) is a stitch precisely similar to the last; but as the thread is passed twice round the hook before the insertion of the latter in the chain, there will be four loops on, when the thread is drawn through. Bring the thread three times through two loops to finish the stitch.
Long Treble Crochet (l tc.) has the thread twisted three times round the hook, before it is passed through the chain; consequently, it will require the thread to be drawn four times through two loops to finish the stitch.
To work THROUGH a stitch, is to draw the thread under instead of in it. This is stronger than the usual method, but not so neat; it is, therefore, rarely used for anything but very open work.
Square Crochet is that which is made entirely in small squares, those which form the pattern being closely filled in, and the ground open. Open squares are formed thus: 1 dc. 2 ch., miss 2, repeated. Close squares contain three dc. stitches, thus: 1 c. 1 o., would have 4 dc. 2 ch. Every pattern in square crochet requires a foundation chain of stitches which can be divided by three and leave one over; as it is obvious that if an open square were the last on the pattern, a dc. stitch would be required to form the square at the end.
Sometimes a very large piece of work may be made in treble square crochet. In this work, a close square of 4 tc. stitches; an open square, 1 tc. 3 ch. miss 3. This style requires the pattern to be divisible by four, with one stitch over.
The stars, daggers, and asterisks used in printing knitting and crochet receipts signify that any stitches given between two similar marks are to be done as many times as directed; thus, ✕ 3 dc. 2 ch. ✕ three times, means 3 dc. 2 ch., 3 dc. 2 ch., 3 dc. 2 ch.
When one repetition occurs within another italics are used at each end of the part. * 1 p. 2 k. 1 p. 1 k. (a) m. 1, k. 1 (a) 6 times * 8 times, means that one complete pattern being finished, when you have made 1, knitted 1, 6 times, 8 of those patterns, beginning again each time at the first *, will be required for the round or row.
HONITON LACE COLLAR.
[Fig. 1.]
The same sprigs and edgings may be used for a Bertha, or Veil, as they are complete in themselves, and only require to be tastefully grouped and lightly sewed on Italian net, already cut into the form required.
Materials.—Crochet cotton, No. 60; crochet hook, No. 24; eagle card-board gauge.
For the Border.—Make a chain of the length required, taking care that there are so many sevens and two over. 2 sc. on ch. ✕ 5 ch., miss 5, 2 sc. on 2 ch. + repeat.
2nd Row.—2 sc. on the other side of the chain, ✕ 2 dc. 3 tc., 2 dc., in 5 ch., 2 sc. on same 2 ch. that were worked in the last row + repeat.
3rd Row.—2 slip on 2 sc. + 1 sc. 3 dc., 1 sc. on 5 ch. 1 slip on sc.; make a chain of 12, close for a loop, and work round in sc., 1 slip on second sc. stitch + repeat. Do not make the loop of 12 at the last pattern.
For the small Sprigs.—16 ch. close in 5th for a loop, leaving a stem of four; work round the loop in sc., 2 ch. in continuation of stem, 18 ch., close for loop, round which work thus: 3 ch., miss 2, sc. on 3rd, 3 ch., miss 2, dc. on 3rd, ✕ 3 ch., miss 1, dc. on 2nd + twice, 3 ch., miss 2, dc. on 3rd, 3 ch. miss 2, sc. on 3rd, 3 ch., miss 2, slip stitch at the close of the loop; work round in sc. and down the 6 ch. of the stem.
The large Sprig.—30 ch., close for a loop, and work round it thus: 1 sl., 2 sc. dc. all the rest but 3; 2 sc., 1 slip. Turn the work on the wrong side; 16 ch., miss 3, slip on 4th, + 4 slip on the last 4 of the chain; 16 ch., miss 4, slip on 5th, + 5 times; 4 slip on last 4 of the 16; 12 ch., miss 3, slip on closing stitch; work all round these loops in dc., except the first and last stitches of each loop, which must be sc. This completes the flower: 16 ch., on which work back, 1 sc. + 2 dc. in one chain, + 4 times, 1 dc., 9 ch., 1 sc., 7 dc. on the 9; 1 dc. 1 tc., in next chain of 16; 1 dc., in next; 1 sc. in next; 1 slip in next; slip back on the last 3 stitches; 6 ch., on which 1 slip, 1 sc., 8 dc. (the last of which will come on the 16 ch.) ; 2 sc., 1 slip, leaving 2 ch. for the stem, 8 ch.
Shamrock.—21 ch., join in 7th for loop, and slip 4 on the last 4; 11 ch., join to the stitch which closed the loop; slip back 4 as before 11 ch., join at the close of the loop, and work all round in sc., also 6 sc. on stem; 26 ch. slip 11, leaving 14 for stem; work round the 11 thus: 1 slip, 1 sc., 7 dc., 1 sc. 1 slip, on each side, which forms a close leaf; repeat leaf, with 8 ch. for stem instead of 14; then another leaf close to it; 8 sc. on 8 ch. of stem; repeat the leaf; 7 sc. on stem; repeat the shamrock; 7 sc. on stem; repeat the leaf, making a ch. of 14 instead of 12; work in sc. to the base of the flower; fasten off.
Honiton lace sprigs and edgings must be finished by running the ends of thread at the back with a fine sewing needle, and then cutting them off.
To make hemstitch for the neck, make a chain the required length, and work thus: 2 ch. miss 1, 1 dc. This gives the circular form requisite for the neck of a collar.
PASSION FLOWER IN CHENILLE
[Fig. 2.]
Materials.—One piece of green chenille, of a medium tint; one of a very delicate green; one of violet ditto; and a small quantity of rather stout liteaux. This last is a kind of fine wire, used in making up flowers, &c. The chenille is the fine kind termed chenille a broder. Crochet hook, No. 14.
Cut a piece of liteaux, about a quarter of a yard long; make a loop at one end of it, occupying an eighth of the whole length, and twist the wire, to keep the round perfect; on this loop work 16 dc. stitches with the lightest green or white chenille, and on these another round of dc. stitches. Repeat this seven times more; so that on the length of liteaux eight of these petals are formed. When all are done, twist together the ends of every two, and fasten them thus on a piece of liteaux, as close together as possible. Then prepare the stamens and pistil. Twist some short pieces of liteaux, into a form as nearly as possible resembling that of the natural pistil, which, it will be remembered, has three branching arms. Cover this with pale green chenille. The stamens are short pieces of liteaux, some covered with violet, and some with green chenille: they are to be made of different lengths, and the ends to be twisted round that of the pistil, so that they may surround it. Then make a small ring of liteaux, put it round the stamens and pistil, and cover it with violet chenille, when the centre of the flower is completed. Put round it the liteaux with the eight petals attached, so that the ring of violet covers the joins. Work on a small wire ring two rounds of dark green chenille for the calyx, in which place the flower.
Twist the ends all together, to form a stem, and cover it with chenille of the same color.
For the Bud.—Work 20 tc. stitches with the light green chenille on a bit of liteaux, laying in another piece of wire at the edge. Draw the stitches rather together, so as to form a cup, in which put a morsel of cotton wool. Work on another bit of liteaux 16 dc. stitches with dark green chenille; twist the ends together, drawing the wire into the form of a leaf. Four of these make the calyx which is to surround the bud. Twist the ends together, and cover the stem so formed with chenille.
The Leaves.—Twist a piece of liteaux large enough to form the centre of a leaf, and work round it in dc. with the darkest green chenille, taking care to make your stitches very close together. Work round this another row of the same chenille, with a bit of very fine wire in the edge. Do all in dc. except the first and last stitches, which must be in sc. Twist the ends of the wires for a stem, and cover with the same shade of chenille. If these artificial flowers are to be used for a head dress, four of them must be made, and a sufficient number of leaves to form a drooping branch on each side of the hair. For a bonnet, they may be formed into a group.
To make a wreath of the present style, unite the two sprays by either a coronet of leaves, or a plait of lilac chenille.
For dark hair, make flowers of scarlet chenille instead of lilac.
CARD BASKET IN CROCHET
[Fig. 3.]
Materials.—Rich blue Berlin wool, two ounces; gold colour and scarlet filoselle, three-quarters of an ounce each; fine window cord; Bone crochet hook.
Form with the cord as small a round as you can for the commencement of the stand, and continue to work in it, round and round, until all the flat part of the basket is done, all in sc.
1st round.—12 stitches, blue.
2nd.—18 ditto.
3rd.—24 ditto.
4th.—36 ditto.
5th.—1 gold, 3 blue, 2 gold, 3 blue, 1 gold. 4 times.
6th.—1 gold, 4 blue, 2 gold, 4 blue, 1 gold,. 4 times.
7th.—2 gold, 5 blue, 3 gold, 5 blue, 1 gold,. 4 times.
8th.—4 gold (the 1st on the 1st of last row,) 1 blue, 7 gold, 1 blue, 3 gold. 4 times.
9th.—2 gold, 2 scarlet on 1 gold, 3 gold (the centre on the single blue,) 2 scarlet on 1 gold, 3 gold on 3 gold, 2 scarlet on 1 gold, 3 gold, 2 scarlet on 1 gold, 1 gold. 4 times.
10th.—1 gold on 1st gold of last row, 3 scarlet on two stitches, 5 gold, 3 scarlet on 2, 1 gold on centre of 3 gold, 3 scarlet as before, 5 gold, 3 scarlet. 4 times.
11th.—2 gold on 1, 4 scarlet, 4 gold on 3, 4 scarlet, 2 gold on 1, 4 scarlet, 4 gold on 3, 4 scarlet. 4 times.
12th.—3 gold on 2, 4 scarlet, 3 gold on 2, 4 scarlet, 6 gold, 4 scarlet, 3 gold on 2, 4 scarlet, 3 gold on 2. 4 times.
Thus it will be perceived, the written instructions are for one exact quarter of each round. After having done the last round, do one entirely of scarlet; cut off the cord at the end of the round, and work a few stitches to conceal the termination of it.
For the Sides of the Basket.—The rounds alternately blue and gold.
1st Round.—1 dc., 3 ch., miss 1; repeat.
2nd.—1 dc. on centre of 3 ch., 3 ch., miss 3.
3rd.—As last, with 4 ch. between.
4th.—Repeat, with 5 ch. between.
5th.—As 4th.
6th.—5 dc. on 5 ch., 1 ch., miss 1; repeat.
7th.—Sc. all round, with cord in as in the first part.
8th.—3 sc. on 3 centre of 5, 9 ch., miss 3, repeat.
9th.—To be worked on the same row as the last, 3 sc. on the 3 missed, 9 ch., miss 3; repeat. Work these two rows in different colours, and form a band of wire, covered with ribbon or crochet, to correspond; conceal the fastening with bows.