KNITTING INSTRUCTIONS.
Whatever other arts may become popular among ladies, that of Knitting will ever be held in high estimation, not merely from the elegance of the articles produced by an accomplished knitter, but from the great facility it offers for the employment of the invalid, the aged, and the blind. The dexterity the last named acquire, is too well known to need comment, nor would I remark on it but for the sake of convincing those who possess the blessing of sight, that there is no good reason for a piece of simple knitting so absorbing eyes, ears, and thoughts, as to render them the mere knitting machines they usually are. To see young ladies stooping, with rounded shoulders and contracted chest, over a simple piece of knitting, no one would imagine that they were exercising an art in which the blind are the greatest adepts. The fact is, that the blind exercise their sense of touch as well as their memory, until the most elaborate pattern is produced in a manner perfectly mechanical; why then should we not be able, in the same manner, to use our fingers, whilst our thoughts, tongues, and eyes, are at liberty for the enjoyment of more intellectual pleasures? A few hints will very soon enable knitters to pursue their favorite occupation whilst reading, studying, or conversing; and although it may appear a matter of little or no consequence to be able to knit by touch, none of us can tell how soon sickness or weak sight may compel us to abandon all employment which requires strong light or exertion of thought.
The sense of touch appears to be most acute at the extreme points of the fingers; and it is desirable so to hold our work as to avail ourselves of this power. The needles are to be held in the following manner:—
The work being held in the left hand, the needle must be held closely pressed between the palm and the third and fourth fingers, whilst the foremost stitches are kept near the point by the thumb and second finger; the first is thus left free to assist in knitting, slipping the stitches forward, shortening the point of the needle, &c. The usual mode of knitting, is to hold the stitch between the thumb and the first finger; and those who have been accustomed to this method, and will try mine, will be astonished at the rapidity with which the delicate point of the fore-finger distinguishes between one kind of stitch and another; the other needle is held between the thumb and first finger of the right hand, and rests on the hand. The thread is passed loosely round the little finger, under the second and third, and over the tip of the first, which is quite close to the needle. The thumb should be quite quiet—the jerking motion, so observable in some knitters, being both inelegant and detrimental to the work.
Knitting needles should have no sharp points. The needles should gradually taper to a rounded, smooth end, half an inch, at least, being thus gradually diminished. I have, as yet, only found one make of this description; but in no manufactured article is there a greater difference than between good and bad knitting needles.
Some patterns have a much better effect woven than knitted, principally from the superior method of diminishing; of that, and the best mode of casting on, I have given diagrams.
Fig. 1.—This gives the first process in casting on with two needles, (by far the best method.) Make a loop with your finger and thumb, slip the needle in, and with the thread (a) knit in the ordinary way. This forms the first loop. You will now hold the needle in the left hand; take another in the right, and slip it into the last loop. With the point of the finger, carry the thread between the two needles, and bring the point of the right hand needle in front, (fig. 2,) when the stitch is completed. It must then be slipped on to the left hand needle, and the process repeated.
Fig. 3.—Purling, (or pearling,) is generally known. The right hand needle is inserted in front of the stitch, the thread passed round it, and then the point pushed backwards, and drawn out behind.
Fig. 4.—Represents the woven method of knitting three together, which should always be employed where the centre stitch is intended for the uppermost one. The usual mode is this:—slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over the knitted. The best way is to slip two together off the needle, knit the third, and slip the two over. The centre of the three stitches will then be the front one. If a stitch is to be made before and after, you will merely bring the thread in front on each occasion.
Figs. 5 and 6.—Show the manner of purling three together in the back rows, to correspond with the knitted ones. We will suppose an open hem to be on each side, as seen in fig. 7. Put the thread round the needle, immediately before the loose stitch c; then insert the point of the right hand needle in b c, taking both off the left hand. Purl a and slip the others over them.
In working from knitting receipts it is necessary to remember that no two people knit alike, and therefore, the needles which suit one person admirably, will be too large, or too small for another. I give the sizes which suit an ordinary worker; but those who are conscious of being very light, or very loose knitters, will do well to use needles one or two sizes coarser or finer.
I trust that the above observations will enable every reader to understand perfectly the receipts for various choice and beautiful patterns in knitting, which I shall introduce, from time to time, in our pages. I therefore proceed, at once, to the articles represented in the Engraving.
INFANT’S CAP CROWN.
[Fig. 1.]
Materials.—Cotton Nos. 70 and 90. Crochet hook, No. 22, eagle card-board gauge, and a fine sewing needle.
This cap crown is formed by a very pretty admixture of crochet with point lace stitches.
The sprig, which forms the centre as well as the border, is made in crochet, in a Honiton lace pattern. The mode of engraving, with figures to indicate the number of stitches in every part, is one invented by myself, already familiar to many of our readers, to whom it has been found extremely useful.
Work the crochet with No. 70 cotton. Begin the sprig at the end of the stem (a,) work up the two-leaved side, then the flower, and down the other side of the stem, beginning where you left off: 10 ch. for the stem.
Leaf, 30 ch., join in the first to form a loop; work the first and last stitches in sc. and all the rest in dc., three stitches being made in the centre chain; slip 1 at the joining of the loop; 16 ch. for stem; repeat the leaf with 20 ch. instead of 30; 10 ch. for stem.
Flower.—This is worked round and round, the right side being always uppermost, and the thread being passed under the stem at every round. The inner circle is made first; 18 ch., join into a loop, and work all round in sc. ✕ 5 ch., 1 dc. through every 3rd of last round, ✕ 5 times, 5 ch., slip 1 at the stem. Work round these in sc. * 13 ch., 1 sc. through dc. of last round * 5 times 13 ch., slip 1 on the stem. Sc. all round, working on the chain stitches only. Make a slip stitch at the stem to close the flower well; sc. on the 10 ch.; then make a leaf of 20 ch. opposite to the last; 8 sc. on chain.
Bud.—22 ch., 1 dc. on the 18th, ✕ 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc., ✕ twice, 2 ch., miss 2, slip 1. This forms the open part of the bud. Work round it, 1 sc., 1 dc., 5 tc., 2 dc., 1 sc., 4 ch., 3 sc. on 4, 2 slip, 4 ch., 3 sc. on 4, 1 sc., 2 dc., 5 tc., 1 dc. 1 slip. Slip down the stem of the bud, sc. 8 on the flower stem, make a leaf opposite the first, work down the stem, and fasten off.
Take a fine needle, and run a few stitches on the wrong side with each end, when you may cut them off closely.
The Border which would serve very well for a collar, or any other article, is made thus:—32 ch. for each pattern, or 256 for the round. Close, to form it into a circle, and on one side of the chain work thus:—
1st round.—✕ slip 2, 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc. * 2 ch., miss 2, 1 tc., * twice; 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, slip 2, 20 ch., miss 14, slip 2, ✕ 8 times.
2nd, or outer round.—(To be worked on the other side of the chain.) ✕ 2 slip on 2 slip, 1 sc., 1 dc., 1 tc., 8 long tc., 1 tc., 1 dc., 1 sc., ✕ 16 times.
3rd or inner round.—(To be worked on the first, beginning at the open hem.) ✕ 2 slip on 2 slip, 1 sc., 2 dc., 8 tc., 2 dc. 1 sc. 2 slip; then on the 20 ch., 1 sc., 7 dc., 1 sc., 1 slip, 12 ch.; form these into a loop, work round them in sc., then continue on the 20, 1 slip, 1 sc., 7 dc., 1 sc., ✕ 8 times. Fasten off, and put on the pearl edging with the ends of thread.
To make up the crown, draw a circle the size of the copy, on mounted paper, tack the crochet on it, and connect all the parts with open English lace worked in Evans’s boar’s-head, No. 90. (For the Point Lace Stitches, see Part III. of this work.)
Those who prefer it, may sew the crochet on a round of Brussels net, as is so generally done with real Honiton lace.