LADY’S CHEMISETTE.
Materials.—Cotton No. 40, crochet hook, No. 22, eagle card-board gauge.
Make a chain of 36 stitches.
1st.—Dc.
2nd.—Open square crochet.
3rd.—Dc.
4th.—Open square crochet.
5th.—Dc.
6th.—10 sc., 10 ch., miss 4, 1 dc. under 5th ch., 16 ch., miss 5, 1 dc. under 6th, 10 ch., miss 4, 1 dc. under 5th. Turn, and work the three loops in sc.; turn again, and work them in dc.; turn again, and work three scallops in the first large one, thus: ✕ 1 sc., 1 dc. in one stitch, 3 tc. in the next, 1 dc., 1 sc in the next, ✕ 3 times; then, on the large loop work six times in the same way, and on the other small, three times; finish the row in sc.
7th.—Turn the work; make 15 ch., 2 sc. on the 5th and 6th of the loop of 10, 7 ch., 2 sc. at the back of the second loop, in the eighth and ninth of the chain of 16; 7 ch., 2 sc. on fifth and sixth of the first loop of 10; 15 ch., 2 sc. on the last two stitches at the end of the row.
8th.—Turn the work, and do a row of sc.
9th.—Turn; 15 ch., 2 dc. over the middle loops of the first scallop, 15 ch., 2 dc. in the middle of the second scallop, 15 ch, 2 dc. in the third scallop, 15 ch.; sc. on the last stitch of the row.
10th.—Turn and work a row of dc.
11th.—Turn and work a row of open square crochet.
12th.—Like tenth.
13th.—Like eleventh.
14th.—Like tenth.
Then repeat from the sixth row, observing that as the first lace row has only one scallop and this has two, you must count the number of stitches in the last row, and leaving three from the centre for half of the space between the two flowers, and sixteen for the three loops, so that you will work in sc. from the beginning of the row to within nineteen of the centre; then the chain of ten, of sixteen, and of ten again, as directed in row 6, and six sc. stitches in the centre; the remainder of the row to correspond with the first part.
The rest of the Chemisette is to be worked according to the directions already given, observing, that as the number of stitches gradually increases, an extra scallop must be made in every new pattern, and care must be taken that they fall regularly between those of the previous row.
When a different depth is done, to come up to the neck, leave a space of two patterns or so, in the centre, and continue working at each side, not increasing at the outer edge, and diminishing every row at the inner one, in order to fit the neck.
It is to be set in a habit-shirt of net or Mull muslin, and two rows of crochet-lace put round the neck.
ANTI-MACASSAR.
[Fig. 8.]
Materials.—Cotton, No. 12. Crochet hook, No. 14. Eagle card-board gauge.
Make a chain of 9. Close in the 3rd for a round, leaving 2 chain. Work under this round 12 dc.
+ Sc. on 1st dc., 5 ch. miss 1, + 6 times.
+ Sc. on 1st stitch of the 1st chain of 5, 3 dc. on three next, sc. on 5th, slip on sc., + 3 times; repeat from the beginning until as many are done as may be required for the length of an Anti-Macassar, without a border. Turn, and work the three loops left in each flower, like the first three, with a single crochet stitch on the chain which connects them. Break off your cotton. 5 ch., dc. under each side of the centre stitch of the second loop, 9 ch., dc. in the same place of the next flower, and continue so to the end, leaving off with 5 chain. Work on this a row of dc., then an open row, thus:—1 tc., 1 ch., miss 1. Repeat.
The next row in dc.
Make another length of flowers, and join them to the last row, thus:—in working the second side of the flowers, join the middle loop to the last row of dc., at the same intervals as the previous row of flowers is united.
Repeat alternately the open hem and the flowers, until the Anti-Macassar is sufficiently wide, finishing with the three rows which form the open hem. Work an open hem at the other side, and at both ends, carrying the dc. all round. Beyond this is a round of small eyelet-holes which are thus worked:—✕, make a chain of 9, close in 7th for a loop, under which work 2 dc.; drop the loop off your hook, take up a loop of the edge of the Anti-Macassar, then the dropped loop and make 3 more dc. under the chain, reckoning as one thread the dropped loop and that of the border, + repeat,—joining such eyelet-hole to every fifth chain of the Anti-Macassar. Work the 2nd side of the eyelet-holes at each corner, make a chain all round connecting it with the eyelet-holes in every fifth stitch. Next round, 1 dc. in the middle loop of the 2nd side of the eyelet-holes, 4 ch., repeat throughout the round with 5 ch. at the corners, dc. all round, working three stitches in one at the corners.
Next round, ✕ 1 tc., 1 ch., miss 1, ✕ all round, not missing any at the corners.
Next round, dc, with three in one at the corners.
Next, ✕ 5 dc. 5 ch., miss 1, 1 dc., 7 ch., miss 1, 1 dc., 5 ch., miss 1 ✕, repeat all round, taking care that the 7 ch. come exactly at each corner.
Next, sc. on each side of the 3rd dc., ✕ 3 ch., sc. in the loop of 5, 3 ch., sc. in the centre of the loop of 7, 3 ch., sc. in the 2nd loop of 5, 3 ch., sc. on each side of the 3rd of the 5 dc.
Next, sc. on a loop, + 3 ch., sc. on next, ✕, repeat all round, but with 5 ch. at the top of each Vandyke, and three chains of 5 at each corner.
This is one of the patterns which look extremely well when formed by an intermixture of cotton and wool, or colored and white cottons. A rich scarlet, green, or cerise wool may be used for all the eyelet-holes and the edge: the open-hems, throughout, in white cotton; or pink and drab cottons wash and wear extremely well, and possess the additional advantage of not being so soon soiled as white inevitably is, particularly in London.