NEEDLES.

The needles principally used are tapestry needles, which are thick and blunt and have a long open eye,—Sharps, which are similar needles with sharp points, and are used for working on thicker substances than canvas,—as cloth, &c.; and short long eyes, which are used for the same purpose, and are like common needles, but very short, and with long eyes.

CROCHET COLLAR.
[SEE FIG. 1, FRONTISPIECE.]

Materials.—Crochet cotton, No. 30. Crochet hook, No. 20, or 21. Make 320 chain.

1st.—✕ 2 tc. in one chain, 1 ch., miss 1 ✕. Repeat.

2nd.—✕ 1 tc. under every chain, 3 ch., miss 2 tc. ✕. Repeat.

3rd.—✕ Sc. in every alternative loop of 3 ch., 8 ch. ✕; repeat.

4th and 5th.—✕ sc. through every loop with 8 ch. between ✕. Repeat.

6th.—dc. in every loop.

7th.—✕ 10 tc., 1 ch., 10 tc., without missing any; 8 ch., miss 6, 1 dc., 8 ch., miss 6 ✕, 12 times, but ending with the 2nd 10 tc.

8th.—10 tc. on first 10 of last row, 2 ch., miss 1, 9 tc., ✕ 8 ch., 1 tc. on dc., 8 ch., 9 tc., beginning on the 2nd of 10, 2 ch., miss 1, 9 tc. ✕ 10 times, 8 ch., 1 tc. on dc., 8 ch., 9 tc. (beginning on the 2nd), 2 ch., miss 1, 10 tc.

9th.—10 tc., 2 ch., miss 2, 8 tc. ✕ 6 ch., 1 tc. on tc., 4 ch., 1 tc. on the same, 6 ch., 8 tc., beginning on the 2nd of last row, 2 ch., miss 2, 8 tc. ✕ 10 times; 6 ch., 1 tc. on tc., 4 ch., 1 tc. on same, 6 ch., 8 tc. (beginning on 2nd of last row), 2 ch., miss 2, 10 tc.

10th.—10 tc., miss 2, 3 ch., 5 tc., ✕ 6 ch., 1 tc. in loop, * 4 ch., 1 tc. in the same loop * twice, 6 ch., 5 tc. (beginning on 3rd), 3 ch., miss 2, 5 tc. ✕ 10 times, 6 ch., 1 tc. into loop, † 4 ch., 1 tc. into same, † twice, 6 ch., 5 tc. (beginning on 3rd), 3 ch., miss 2, 10 tc.

11th.—16 tc. in 16 successive stitches, ✕ 6 ch., 1 tc. into first loop * 4 ch., 1 tc. into the same loop, * twice, 1 tc. into the next loop, † 4 ch., 1 tc. into same, † twice; 6 ch., 9 tc. in 9 successive stitches, beginning on the 3rd of the previous row, ✕ 10 times; 6 ch., 1 tc. into first loop, ¶ 4 ch., 1 tc. into the same, ¶ twice; 1 tc. into the next, (a) 4 ch., 1 tc. into the same (a), twice; 6 ch., 16 tc.

12th.—14 tc. ✕ 6 ch., tc. into first loop, 4 ch., 1 tc., into the same; 10 ch., 1 tc. into the last loop, 4 ch., 1 tc. into the same, 6 ch., 5 tc. (beginning on 3rd), ✕ 10 times; 6 ch., 1 tc. into 1st loop, 4 ch. 1 tc. into the same, 10 ch., 1 tc. into the last loop, 4 ch., 1 tc. into the same, 6 ch., 14 tc.

13th.—12 tc., ✕ 6 ch., * 1 tc., 4 ch., * 10 times through the 10 ch.; 6 ch., 3 tc., ✕ 10 times; 6 ch., † 1 tc., 4 ch. through 10 ch., † 10 times; 6 ch., 12 tc.

14th.—10 tc. ✕ 6 ch., 1 tc. under the 6 ch. of the last row; 4 ch., 1 tc.; repeat into each loop; 4 ch., 1 tc. under the 6 ch., 6 ch., 1 dc. on centre of 3 tc., ✕ 10 times; 6 ch., 1 tc. under previous 6 ch., 4 ch., 1 tc. in every loop as before; 4 ch., 1 tc. under 6 ch., 6 ch., 10 tc.

15th.—Sc. on end of the first row, 9 ch., sc. on 3rd row, 9 ch., sc. on 5th row, 9 ch., sc. on 8th row, 9 ch., sc. on 10th row, 9 ch., sc. on 12th row, 10 ch., sc. on first tc. stitch of last row, 10 ch., sc. on 8th tc. ✕ 4 ch., tc. under 6 ch. 4 ch., 1 tc. into each loop, ✕ repeat until you come to the last 9 tc. stitches, then repeat backwards from before the 4 ch. to the commencement of the row.

16th.—Sc. 10 ch., sc. into every loop, until you come to the one of 4 ch.; then work 5 dc. into every loop, 10 ch. to the last 4 ch. End as you began.

17th.—Sc. 11 ch., sc. in every loop until you come to the 5 dc.; then ✕ 4 ch., sc. through every loop, ✕ to the last 5 dc. Make the second end to correspond with the first.

Those who crochet very loosely should use a hook still smaller than the one I have recommended; as the collar, to look well, should be done very tightly.

KNITTED LACE UNDERSLEEVE.
[Fig. 2.]

Materials.—Crochet cotton, No. 40; 2 steel knitting needles, No. 20. Cast on 101 stitches. Purl one row.

1st.—Knit 1, ✕ m. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 1 ✕, repeat.

2nd.—Purled.

Knit from 50 to 60 rows in this manner, and cast off. This forms one puffing; and, of course, for a pair of sleeves, you will require four.

For the Insertion.—Cast on 13 stitches; knit one row, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1; then begin the pattern.

1st.—K. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 3, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 3, m. 1, k. 2 t.

2nd, and every alternate row.—K. 3, p. 7, k. 3.

3rd.—K. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 2, m. 1, k. 2 t.

5th.—K. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t.

7th.—K. 1, m. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 5, ✕ m. 1, k. 2 t., ✕ twice.

8th.—As 2nd, which completes the pattern.

Do as much of this as may be required for the wrists, allowing a few plain rows at the end to set a button on; and also two pieces to be inserted between the puffs, which must be put rather full into the bands. At the top of the upper puff, sew on a muslin band, which may be tacked in the dress.

According to the present style of sleeves, the ruffle should not fall over the hand, but should be sewed at the other edge of the wristband with the puff, on which it must fall back. For cold weather, an undersleeve of sarsenet, made of the same dimensions as the knitted one, and tacked under it, will be found a very great improvement, and if of a colour that will harmonise with the dress, will be very becoming.

Knitted Lace Ruffle.—Cotton No. 50; Needles, No. 22. Cast on 17 stitches.

1st Row.—Knit 2, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, slip 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 3, m. 2, k. 2 t., m. 2, k. 2.

2nd.—K. 3, p. 1, k. 2, p. 1, k. 3, p. 5, k. 5.

3rd.—K. 2, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, slip 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, m. 1., k. 10.

4th.—K. 2, m. 2, k. 2 t., k. 1, k. 2 t., m. 2., k. 2 t., k. 2, p. 3, k. 6.

5th.—K. 2, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 2, m. 1, k. 3 t., m. 1, k. 4, p. 1, k. 4, p. 1, k. 2.

6th.—K. 12, p. 3, k. 6.

7th.—K. 2, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 2 t., m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 2 t., k. 2, m. 2, slip 1, k. 3 t., pass the slip stitch over, m. 2, k. 2 t., k. 2 t.

8th.—K. 3, p. 1, k. 2, p. 1, k. 3, p. 5, k. 5.

9th.—Like 3rd.

10th.—Cast off 3, k. 6, p. 2, m. 1, p. 2 t., p. 1, k. 5.

This lace should be put on rather full; and on no account should knitted articles be ironed by the laundress. It is quite sufficient to pull them into proper shape whilst they are drying at the fire.

INSERTIONS IN EMBROIDERY.
[Figs. 7 & 8.]

Suitable for the fronts of shirts, and for other purposes; to be worked in satin stitch, with embroidery cotton, No. 80. The centres of the leaves and cups of the flowers may be done in very small eyelet-holes. The stalks sewn over with extreme neatness.

TABLE MAT.
[Fig. 3.]

Materials.—Shaded green and scarlet 8 thread Berlin wool; bone crochet hook. Make a chain of six and form it into a round.

1st Round.—12 dc.

2nd.—4 ch., miss 1 sc. in 2nd. stitch; repeat all round.

3rd.—Like 2nd.

4.—Scarlet wool; 6 ch., sc. under the loop of 4 ch.; repeat.

5th.—7 ch., sc. under 6 ch. of former round; repeat.

6th.—9 ch. worked as before.

7th.—12 ch. worked as before: fasten off the scarlet and begin with the green wool once more.

8th.—12 tc. on 12 ch. of last round, miss sc. stitch; repeat.

9th.—Sc. on 2nd. stitch, 2 ch., miss 1; repeat.

10th.—+ 1 tc., 3 ch., miss 3 +; repeat.

11th.—+ 1 tc., on tc. of last round, 4 ch. +; repeat.

12th.—+ Dc. on 4 ch. of last round, 1 ch. +; repeat.

13th.—[Scarlet wool,] 4 tc. on 4 dc. of last round, 1 ch.; repeat.

14th—+ 9 dc. on 9 stitches, of last round, 9 ch., dc. into same stitch as the last +; repeat.

15th.—6 ch., sc. in 3rd dc. of last round; repeat this twice more; 8 ch., unite into the loop formed by 9 ch. in last round; three times more, then repeat from the commencement of the 15th round.

16th.—Sc. in centre loop of 8 ch. in scallop; 1 ch., sc. into centre loop of 8 ch. in next scallop, 11 ch.; repeat.

17th.—12 ch., sc. in third stitch; repeat.

18th.—12 dc. through every chain of 12 in last round.

19th.—5 ch. unite with sc. on the point of the loop; repeat.

20th—Dc. all round, and fasten off.

GENTLEMEN’S KNITTED BRACES.
[Fig. 4.]

Materials.—Rich, dark blue, or crimson crochet silk; two knitting needles, No. 14. Cast on 19 stitches.

1st. Row.—K. 2, m. 1, k. 1, slip 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, p. 1, k. 1, slip 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 1, k. 2 t., k. 1, m,. 1, k. 2.

2nd.—P. 5, k. 1, p. 2, k. 1, p. 2, k. 1, p. 5.

3rd.—K. 2, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, slip 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 1, k. 2 t., p. 1, slip 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2.

4th.—P. 6, k. 1, p. 1, k. 1, p. 1, k. 1, p. 6.

5th.—K,. 2, m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, p. 1, slip 1, k. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, k. 2.

6th.—P. 8, k. 1, p. 8.

7th.—K. 2, m. 1, k. 5, m. 1, slip 1, k,. 2 t., pass the slip stitch over, m. 1, k. 5, m. 1, k. 2.

8th.—Purled.

Repeat this pattern until you have done the length required for one half of the braces. Then cast on, and do another length. When made up, they should be lined with white Petersham ribbon, and finished with white kid trimmings.

SMALL GIMPS IN CROCHET
[Fig. 5.]

Materials.—Crochet cotton, No. 6; crochet hook, No. 18.

No.—1.—Make a chain the length required and then work back in dc. This is a very neat little trimming for children’s dresses; and if required to be made of silk and purse twist be used, will be found to answer every purpose for which a narrow gimp may be required. It forms also an excellent substitute for the braid which is run on the skirt of a dress, as the wools of which it should then be made, can be procured of any shade whatever, which the braid itself cannot.

No. 2.—Make a chain of the length required, and on it work 1 dc., 1 ch, miss 1.

JUDY’S ANTI-MACASSAR.
[Fig. 6.]

Materials.—Crochet cotton, No. 10; crochet hook, No. 16. 133 ch.

Four rows of open square crochet.

5th.—20 os., 4 dc., 3 ch., miss 3, 12 dc., 2 ch., 17 os., 1 dc.

6th.—10 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 16 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 3 os., 9 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 21 os., 1 dc.

7th.—10 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 59 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 13 os., 1 dc.

8th and 9th.—The same.

10th.—11 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 54 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 14 os., 1 dc.

11th, 12th, and 13th.—Like 10th.

14th.—12 os., 20 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 32 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 14 os., 1 dc.

15th.—Like 14th.

16th.—12 os., 20 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 14 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 14 os., 1 dc.

17th.—12 os., 7 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 18 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 13 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 14 os., 1 dc.

18th.—12 os., 7 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 18 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 15 os., 1 dc.

19th.—12 os., 7 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 13 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 16 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 10 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 15 os., 1 dc.

20th.—12 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 7 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 16 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 8 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 16 os., 1 dc.

21st.—12 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 7 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 14 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 9 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 16 os., 3, 1, dc.

22nd.—13 os., 7 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 12 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 12 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 7 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 os., 1 dc.

23rd.—13 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 7 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 10 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 10 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 8 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 17 os., 1 dc.

24th.—14 os., 35 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 18 os., 1 dc.

25th—15 os., 40 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 15 os., 1 dc.

26th.—17 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 41 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 12 os., 1 dc.

27th.—17 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 12 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 16 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 12 os., 1 dc.

28th.—17 os., 12 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 10 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 2 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 1 os., 13 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 12 os., 1 dc.

29th.—16 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 3 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 3 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 12 os., 1 dc.

30th.—15 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 12 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 7 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 17 os., 1 dc.

31st.—15 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 10 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 11 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 10 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 os., 1 dc.

32nd.—15 os., 23 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 13 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 16 os., 1 dc.

33rd.—15 os., 21 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 15 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 16 os., 1 dc.

34th.—15 os., 19 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 15 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 os., 1 dc.

35th.—15 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 32 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 17 os., 1 dc.

36th.—16 os., 28 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 18 os., 1 dc.

37th.—16 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 29 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 17 os., 1 dc.

38th.—16 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 30 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 os., 1 dc.

39th.—17 os., 25 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 3 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 os., 1 dc.

40th.—15 os., 10 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 19 os., 1 dc.

41st.—14 os., 14 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 18 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 18 os., 1 dc.

42nd.—14 os., 15 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 5 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 16 os., 1 dc.

43rd.—14 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 16 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 22 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 16 os., 1 dc.

44th.—15 os., 17 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 17 os., 1 dc.

45th.—14 os., 20 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 16 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 17 os., 1 dc.

46th.—13 os., 23 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 7 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 4 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 18 os., 1 dc.

47th.—12 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 8 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 29 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 18 os., 1 dc.

48th.—13 os., 35 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 19 os., 1 dc.

49th.—13 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 30 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 20 os., 1 dc.

50th.—13 os., 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 15 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 12 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 20 os., 1 dc.

51st.—14 os., 13 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 1 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 8 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 20 os., 1 dc.

52nd.—14 os., 10 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 3 os., 5 dc., 1 ch., miss 1, 21 os., 1 dc.

53rd.—15 os., 6 dc., 2 ch., miss 2, 26 os., 1 dc.

54th to 57th inclusive.—In open square crochet.

The border to be the same as that given for Punch’s Anti-Macassar, in part I. of this book.

CROCHET D’OYLEY.
[Fig. 9.]

Materials.—7 shades of Berlin wool; bone hook.

Make a chain of 9, and form it into a round.

1st.—Dc., increasing 3 in the round.

2nd.—6 ch., 1 tc., miss 3. Repeat.

3rd.—Sc. on centre of 6 ch., 9 ch. Repeat.

4th.—Sc. on centre of 9 ch., 12 ch. Repeat.

5th. Sc. on centre of 12 ch., 15 ch., sc. on same stitch, and work 1 sc., 2 dc., 14 tc., 2 dc., 1 sc. in the loop thus formed. Fasten off, and repeat in the centre of every 12 ch.

6th.—Begin on the point of the leaf with a sc. stitch; 15 ch., sc. on point of next leaf, and so on.

7th and 8th.—Dc. all round.

9th.—✕ Sc., 6 ch., miss 2, ✕. Repeat.

10th.—✕ Sc. on centre of 6 ch., 9 ch., ✕; repeat.

11th.—✕ Sc. on centre of 9 ch., 12 ch., ✕; repeat.

12th.—✕ Sc. on centre of 12 ch., 9 ch., ✕; repeat.

13th.—Dc.

14th.—Dc., working two stitches into every one.

15th.—Sc. on the centre of one of the spaces. ✕ 12 ch., sc. in same stitch three times, 12 ch., sc on centre of next space. And repeat from ✕.

16th.—Dc. all round.

17th.—Sc., ✕ 5 ch., miss 2, sc. in 3rd ✕. Repeat all round, and fasten off.