TO MARK PATTERNS.
Designs are invariably marked on satin, cloth, or velvet, by means of what are termed pounced patterns. These are prepared in the following manner:—The design is carefully traced on rather thick writing paper; then, with a fine stiletto it is marked in holes, distant from each other not more than the eighth of an inch: from the pattern thus prepared, any number almost may be marked. The material to be embroidered is then laid on the table, and the pattern placed in the proper position over it, and kept there by means of leaden weights. A little pounce, or powdered flake white must then be rubbed over the paper, with a large and flat stump, and, on the paper being raised, the design appears accurately marked on the cloth. It requires to be afterwards re-marked with a fine sable brush, dipped in a mixture of flake white and milk, or an artist’s color, contrasting with the material, mixed up with a few drops of spirits of turpentine.
White satin, or any very light color on which white would not show may be pounced with very finely powdered charcoal, and then marked with a solution of Indian ink.
For drawing a pattern on any washing material a still simpler plan may be adopted. Scrape some red or blue chalk; brush it lightly over a sheet of thin tissue paper, shake off the loose grains, lay the chalked side of the paper on the muslin, and over it the pattern, which you will trace with a hard sharp-pointed pencil, and the design will be clearly marked, and require no further trouble.
When any parts of a pattern are repeated—as the quarters of a cushion or a handkerchief, or the scallops of a flounce—have only the pounced pattern of one quarter or section, and mark all from that one. It will be found a much more accurate mode than that of making the whole paper pattern perfect.
The next step is to put the material in a frame, two or three inches wider than the work it is to receive. I must refer to my Instructions in Berlin Canvas Work, Part II. of this book for the directions for this very important part of the process. The needles used are technically called short long eyes and strands. The latter are like common needles, but unusually long. It injures the work to use too fine a needle, as the small eye frays the silk; on the other hand a needle that is too large makes holes in the cloth.
The materials chiefly used for embroidery are wools, chenille, and silks: there are great varieties of the last-mentioned article, the principal being Mitorse, Dacca, Berlin, fine and coarse flax, crochet, and netting silks. Of the netting silks there are many sizes, which may be used according to the delicacy of the work.
Initials intended to be in gold, for sachets, &c., are almost as effective if rich gold-colored twisted silk be used instead; and the silk will wear for ever, whilst it is almost impossible to obtain gold thread which will not tarnish in a few months.