THE ZAMBESI, THE RIVER OF SOUTHEAST AFRICA.
The extensive region in Southeast Africa was described in the geographies of the middle ages under the name of the empire of Monomotapa. It is shown upon the old time maps as being dependent upon the river Zambese, or Zambere, for drainage.
The course of this river is, in the main, correctly designated upon these maps, and several large towns are shown as having a location upon its banks. A small lake is also indicated, not far from the actual position of Lake N'gami, whose real existence was not proved until within comparatively a few years.
This lake is now considered one of the most southern of inland waters which have any communication with the modern Zambesi River and the more eastern lakes.
On the old maps the Nyassa and the more northern lakes, Victoria Nyanza and Tanganyika, are given with a good deal of accuracy.
We must believe, then, that those who compiled these early maps must have had some definite knowledge of these regions.
It is believed that they gained this knowledge from the Arabs. Various settlements were located along the eastern and southeastern coast of Africa, extending from the Red Sea to Sofala.
Strange to say, although the lower region of the Zambesi, for a distance of three hundred miles at least, has been in the hands of the Portuguese since the early part of the sixteenth century, yet it is only since the middle of the present century that we have succeeded in getting any accurate or scientific knowledge of the vast territory.
This knowledge we owe to the untiring exertion of such intrepid African explorers as Dr. Kirk, Charles Andersson, Dr. Livingstone, and others.
Upon Dr. Livingstone's map the total length of the main stream, from the mouth to the point in the course where the Leeba River joins it, cannot be less than twelve hundred miles.
The Leeba River proceeds from Lake Dilolo, which is situated on the summit of the watershed which divides the rivers that run northwest into the Atlantic from those which run southeast into the Indian Ocean.
A curious fact is connected with Lake Dilolo; it appears to have two outlets, one to the north and one to the south. The northern outlet probably joins the system of lakes west of Tanganyika.
The river basin of the Zambesi has many features of interest. On the north it probably terminates with a portion of the river system of the Nile. On the west it is separated from the Orange River basin and the various rivers running through Ovampo Land into the Atlantic by a rather undefined watershed, which crosses the Kalahari Desert. On the northwest the main waters very likely have their rise in the near vicinity of the tributaries of the great Congo River.
A well-defined mountain range on the southeast separates the rivers which flow into the Zambesi from those which unite to form the Limpopo.
The Zambesi River retains this name from a point only a short distance above its mouth to the junction of the main stream with the Chobe.
By means of the Chobe the Zambesi is connected with the sluggish intermingling streams of the N'gami region. Flowing on after its junction with the Chobe, the river is known under another name, the Leambye.
Our most accurate knowledge of the river extends as far as its union with the Leeba. At this point it seems to make a sudden bend to the northeast and form a network of streams. These mingle with one another, and, far to the east, seem to form several other connections with the main stream, if we can believe the reports of the natives.
The portion of Central South Africa through which the Zambesi flows may be regarded as an extensive table-land, or plateau.
This vast table-land stands from three to four thousand feet above the level of the sea. On its outer edge it is fringed by a border of basaltic rocks.
The river cuts its way through the rocks of this region to form one of the most strikingly picturesque scenes upon the globe.
It was to this section of the river that Livingstone gave the name Victoria Falls. The natives gave it the odd name Mosiotunge. This may be translated to mean "Smoke sounds there," or "Smoke which sounds."
The falls of the Zambesi have been compared to those of Niagara. Charles Livingstone, a brother of Dr. Livingstone, considered those of the Zambesi more beautiful and more wonderful than those of Niagara.
The river in the vicinity of the falls is more than a mile in breadth. It flows peacefully along its bed and plunges suddenly into a fissure three hundred feet deep, which lies directly in its course.
This fissure is scarcely two hundred feet wide. It is by no means an even opening in the rocks, but for several miles runs in and out in a series of zigzags, which are separated from each other by four vertical promontories of basaltic rock. These promontories are hardly as wide as the fissure. They are so narrow, that if we could stand on the center of one of them we could easily toss a stone into the chasm lying on either hand. It is not known accurately how far below the falls this chasm extends.
The height of the cataract has been estimated as twice that of Niagara. In flood time the volume of water pouring over the falls is very probably much greater than that at Niagara.
Dr. Livingstone relates that, when he visited these falls, one of the first questions asked by a native warrior was, "Have you smoke that sounds in your country?"
"SMOKE-RESOUNDING" FALLS OF THE ZAMBESI.
The natives were too much in awe of these falls to approach near enough to them to examine them. They viewed them with fear and wonder from a distance. They would refer to the vapor and noise with the remark, "Smoke does sound there!"
Livingstone learned that at one time another name had been given to these falls by the natives. He was unable to find the exact translation of the name, but believed it to have meant "seething caldron."
Embarking in a canoe Livingstone, after about twenty minutes' sail, came in sight of the falls. The columns of vapor, so appropriately called smoke, rose to a distance of five or six miles. He had noticed much the same appearance when large tracts of grass were burning on the African plains.
As he looked on the wonderful sight, five columns of smoke arose. They seemed to bend in the direction of the wind, as if to lean against a low ridge covered with trees. Seen from a distance, the tops of the columns appeared to mingle with the clouds. White below, and somewhat darker above, the resemblance was a striking one.
The whole scene was most beautiful. The banks of the river and the islands dotting the stream were covered with foliage and vegetation of the most beautiful form and color. At that season of the year several of the trees were covered with blossoms.
Towering over all stood the great burly baobab, with its enormous branches, each as large as the trunk of a tree. To add to the beauty of the scene, groups of graceful palms waved their feather-shaped leaves in the air, against the background of the sky.
To Livingstone the sight of these trees, native to Africa, was always suggestive of "far from home." He could not remain unconscious of the foreign tone they gave to every picture of the landscape.
A silvery-leaved tree, which bore a strong resemblance to the cedar of Lebanon, stood in pleasing contrast with one of cypress-like form and dark-colored foliage, dotted over with scarlet fruit. Here were trees, too, like our spreading oak; others like our elms and chestnuts.
No one could picture the beauty of the scene as it revealed itself to Livingstone's appreciative eyes. To him it seemed as if so lovely a scene could have been gazed upon only by angels in their flight.
The wonder had never before been viewed by white men; for none had ever penetrated the mysterious realms of the Zambesi waters. Mountains in the background was the only feature lacking to make the picture perfect.
Livingstone found that the falls are bounded on three sides by high ridges. These ridges are from three hundred to four hundred feet high, and are covered with forests. Here and there the red soil appears among the trees.