An embroidery book

by Anne Knox Arthur

CHAPTER VI

BUTTON-HOLE AND BORDER STITCHES—HEMSTITCHING
AND OPEN FILLINGS

“And she that is wise, her time will pris.”

Part of a Curtain.—This illustration (Plate IV.) gives a part of a curtain, which is a fine piece of work. The design has been well considered. The simple masses are admirably juxtaposed; they have been skilfully arranged in a manner singularly appropriate to the work. As a piece of embroidery that would generally be looked at from some distance there has been no time spent on minute detail which would involve unnecessary labour. The bold, yet dainty treatment of the needlework is first-rate, and the whole arrangement of the design, colour and stitchery show that the purpose for which the embroidery was meant must have been continually in the mind of the worker.

The circular massed forms in rich reddish-orange are set, most successfully, the one against the other; the green masses, so simple in shape and satisfactory in colour, are clearly silhouetted against the dark background; the white oblongs with the little orange circles, the applied hem and bands in vivid blue, the interesting variation in stitchery, all go to make a charmingly harmonious piece of simple decoration. Work of this type can be made from materials which are quite inexpensive, and its value on that account is increased tenfold. In the illustration, the various parts of the design, colour and stitchery are so clearly brought out that a detailed description is not required. The background is of linen of a firm quality; the applied forms may be of linen or of any firm material in wool or cotton; the embroidery is in wools, cottons and silks. For the method of working the button-hole filling, see [Fig. 11]. The large circular forms are fixed to the foundation with a row of chain stitch; the little orange circles on the white ground are in the same stitch (Fig. 1). The blue bands are applied with darning or tacking stitch outlined with coral stitch (Fig. 2), the hem with button-hole stitch. The effective little groups of white on the green ground are in petal stitch (Fig. 3). All the little square blocks are in satin stitch. How interesting this constructional design can become to the needlewoman who uses her powers of mind and brain, and who applies her ideas to decorate all manner of things. She would no longer be content to work detached sprays of flowers and leaves, strewn promiscuously over her work, once she discovered what good patterns she could make with simple shapes and with the aid of small pieces of bright-coloured patches and short lengths of material, which she might adapt and use for many purposes.

Various Button-hole Stitches.—Button-hole stitch is one of the most useful of stitches, owing to its construction and adaptability, and the decision with which it marks a line. It can be used equally well for plain needlework, embroidery, or needle-point lace; for borders or fillings, either open or solid, for the covering of raw edges, the outlining of appliqué forms, or the working of flowers or leaves. The direction, spacing and grouping of the stitch may be arranged to suit the work and curved lines may be followed with the utmost facility.

Indeed, the interesting variations and combinations which may be obtained by an ingenious worker are endless.

Fig. 10a.

There are two ways of working the stitch, single button-hole (Fig. 10A), and double or tailor’s button-hole; the former, when worked with rather a wide space between each stitch, is generally known as blanket stitch. Fig. 10A gives a corner for a border, which will also make a suitable finish or heading to the neck of a dress or blouse; it may be spaced in various ways, worked in slanting lines, or with stitches of equal lengths, worked over threads or narrow braids of a different colour or tone. When the heading forms a close line, it is usually considered as a button-hole stitch. Plate I. shows two lines of button-holing worked in groups of three, in orange wool, between two rows of chequered chain stitch, where they serve to connect the broad bands of orange which surround the border of the runner.

For the making of an actual button-hole, or where a firmer and more decorative heading is wanted, it is better to use the variety known as tailor’s button-hole, which has an extra knot added to it; it is this knot which gives greater firmness as well as beauty to the stitch.

To work Blanket Stitch (Fig. 10a).—Blanket, or single button-hole stitch, is so well known that it is hardly necessary to describe it. Bring the needle out at the left end of the line or border; place the thread under the left thumb and insert the needle as shown in Fig. 10A; draw it through, still keeping the thumb on the thread—the needle is thus brought out over it.

Tailor’s Button Stitch.—Tailor’s button-hole—the method of working:—Put the needle into the same position, with the thread under it, as for the single stitch, then take the thread, near the eye of the needle, in the right hand and pass it from right to left again under the needle; draw the needle through both loops and the stitch is complete.

Fig. 10.

Crossed Button-hole (Fig. 10).—Fig. 10 shows another variety of the stitch. The threads are crossed by sloping the needle to the right for the one, and to the left for the other. When worked on a loosely-woven material they can easily be kept exact. The knotted edge may be further strengthened by a row of chain stitch, which always improves the line. As may be seen from the figure, either the under or upper stitches may be the longer, but they should not be varied on the same border, otherwise the regularity of the work will be impaired.

Flowers in Button-hole Stitch (Plate XIII.).—Fig. 11 may be used for a solid or open groundstitch; it makes a charming filling when worked over the material for the petals of large flowers, each petal being outlined with chain stitch, couching, or back stitching (Plate XI.). When working over a foundation, the first row and the last only are fixed to the material; the intervening rows are worked into the headings or loops of the preceding rows. When the spaces to be filled with stitchery of this type are not of such a form as to allow of working continuously, each row of stitchery must be attached to the material at the sides, to keep it in position; the rows are then worked to and fro from right to left, or vice versâ.

“A Portière” (Plate IV.).—In this piece of work an excellent example of this method of filling is seen; the groups of five stitches worked in lemon wool, on a black linen background, make a bright chequered effect, which adds both interest and distinction to the design.

Fig. 11.

Button-hole Filling of a Space (Fig. 11).—Fig. 11 shows clearly the method of filling an open space in this way. The edges must be button-holed in the manner described for white work, unless a braid is used, when the firm edge which it gives is sufficient without extra stitching. Begin at the right upper corner; make three small overcast stitches to carry the thread into position for working the first row, which consists of groups of three button-hole stitches worked loosely into the edges of the braid or material; at the end of the row fasten the thread to the braid; again overcast three stitches; work the second row of button-hole into the loops or spaces of the previous row; continue in this way until the space is filled; the last row should be worked into the braid, in order to keep the others in position.

Plate X. has the central portion enriched by a filling worked in button-hole in blue flax thread. It is commenced from the centre; the lines of the pattern are then followed towards the outer edges (see description on [p. 112]). Plate XI. shows a similar filling, in the flower at the corner, which is also worked in colour and finished on the inner row of button-holing by a line of back stitch.

Fig. 12a.

A Diapered Border (Fig. 12a).—Quite an interesting solid diapered background may be obtained by working these stitches in rows, in groups of three or five. The clusters are worked closely at the top; the second row has the apex of each cluster fitting into the base of the preceding one. A very pleasing border in contrasting colours may be obtained in this way; the two firm lines of button-holing will, of course, form the outer edges.

Fig. 12b.

Double Button-hole (Fig. 12b).—Double button-holing has two rows of button stitch (Fig. 12B). The first must have the stitches spaced so as to allow of the second row of stitches dovetailing into those of the first. This variety can be applied very successfully to braid or galoons, in which cases the stitches need not reach to the opposite side as in Fig. 12B.

Leaves in Button-hole Stitch.—A very good method of filling leaves is to work them in two rows of button-holing, back to back, the firm central line forming the mid-rib of the leaf and the rather broken outer line suggesting the serration of the edges. Small flowers, flower centres and berries are frequently worked in this way (Plate XIII.). The heading of the stitch forms the outline. An old-fashioned, but quaint variety of ground-filling to be seen on some of the earlier samples consisted of successive rows of these little eyelet stitches. The material was first pierced by a stiletto at regular intervals; each hole was then button-holed or overcast round. The insertion of the needle into a common centre formed an opening which gave a lighter effect to the background.

Fig. 13.

Decorative Back Stitch (Fig. 13).—This figure is simply back stitch. To be effective and to make room for the interlacing thread, it should be worked rather larger than usual, and with a thicker thread, from one-eighth to a quarter of an inch in length. A thread of a contrasting tone is then laced through, eye of the needle foremost, the loops of each stitch being regulated before passing on to the next. Back stitch was greatly in use in the seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries, for the adornment of all sorts of articles. Quilts, hangings, and personal clothing were ornamented in this way with bands and patterns. These were sometimes produced by chain stitch worked on the wrong side of the material, which, as an embroideress knows, forms a row of back stitching on the reverse side—the right side in this case.

Reversible Back Stitch.—Sometimes these patterns were worked in reversible back stitch, in order to make both sides of the stitching alike, for in those days needleworkers did not grudge either the time or the patience spent on their embroideries.

Reversible back stitch, so-called, is a running or darning stitch. All should be regular and equal in length, or the appearance of the work, when finished, will not resemble back stitch. The “back” stitch is formed by going over the line a second time with a running stitch, which fills up the spaces on both sides of the material and renders it reversible.

Fig. 14.

Honeycomb Filling (Fig. 14).—This pattern has an advantage over some of the more elaborate background stitches; it is easily and quickly worked, and most of the thread is on the surface. It is known to some needlewomen as honeycomb stitch, to others as Mexican stitch.

To work Honeycomb or Mexican Stitch.—To obtain the best result work the small foundation stitches in one tone and the interlacing in another. If worked on a material where the warp and weft threads are distinct the small stitches may be kept quite regular without difficulty, otherwise it is better to mark their position by means of a ruler and pencil. The spacing will vary according to the material and the thread used; about half an inch should be left between each small stitch for bold effective work, and the second row should alternate with the first. When all are in position, a long thread is taken for the interlacing, which is done in rows. Fasten the thread at the right top corner, and, eye of needle foremost, pass through the first stitch in the top row, down to the second, up to the top row again, and so on, as shown in Fig. 14. As the edges are undefined, this stitch requires a good firm outline round it.

Table Runner (Plate V.) of cream cotton canvas, or netting, is of a very open texture; it is treated in a simple direct manner, which is both pleasing to the eye and interesting to the worker.

It may be made of half-a-yard of material, 54 inches by 18 inches. The pattern is worked in wools and thick cottons, in stitchery eminently suited to the loosely-woven texture.

Method of working:—Turn over on to the front surface a single fold of about 1 inch on each side and tack in place to prevent fraying; later on these raw edges will be covered with galoon or braid. Allow about 12 inches at each end for the wide hem, and from there about 14 inches for the needle-weaving. Get the centre line by means of a measuring tape; cut ten warp threads at each end of the bar, which in this material is about three-quarters of an inch. Great care must be taken in cutting the top threads to see that they correspond exactly with those already cut. It is a good plan to draw the two outer threads a little, the tightening of which will indicate the exact place to cut the upper ones. This bar should be worked before the adjacent bars are cut. Leave a strip of material about half an inch wide on either side, then proceed to cut the weft threads, as before, for the broader bands—each is about one-and-three-quarter inches wide, so that twenty-four threads are withdrawn.

PLATE V.

A BUREAU SCARF.

In weaving these wide strips, a frame is of assistance on account of the very soft nature of the material: the pattern should be easily followed from the illustration, but perhaps a few suggestions might help the beginner. Fig. 31 gives the method of weaving. Start with cream cotton or flax; run a few stitches on the under side; bring the needle to the point and weave, by passing over three of the double warp threads and under three, backwards and forwards, until these upright threads are completely covered—it is necessary during this process to press down the threads closely from time to time, and care must be taken not to tighten the groups too much or the material will get puckered. Repeat these woven bars in different groups of colour to the end of the strip, which gives five groups in cream flax and three in colour, jade green, reddish-purple, royal blue. Cover the half-inch bands of material with a herring-bone or oriental stitch, worked in cream linen floss embroidery thread. Take up the strands in groups of three on either side—this separates the threads into groups and simplifies the weaving of the next strip. Proceed now with the more elaborate weaving. It will be noticed that the weaving moves in a step-like manner, and that the pattern changes three times in each ascending or descending line, so that each line from edge to edge is divided into threads. Begin with the green group and pass under and over four groups of thread (in Plate V. the group worked in purple is the most distinct). Each group, as before, consists of three double warp strands; weave one-third of the space, then leave out the fourth group; continue to weave on three groups for another third of the space; leave out the third group; finish with two groups. Overcast one stitch into the canvas and weave over two fresh groups downwards for one-third of the distance, then over the next two groups of the second third; then take up the two next groups and weave to the edge of the threads—thus weaving diagonally in groups of two from the bottom of the bar, this last row produces a series of steps. Repeat the same in ascending groups; finish exactly in the same manner as before, with the exception that the weaving over four groups is this time at the top of the bar—these masses of weaving are separated by plain bars of cream, woven over four groups. The cut threads at the top are button-holed to keep them secure. Lines of darning stitches connect the edges with the woven bars. The bands of galoon are now laid over the turned-over folds, hemstitched on the one side and button-holed on the other, with dull blue; a line of tacking stitch in cerise gives a touch of bright colour to the outer edge.

Turn up about 6 inches at each end to give weight to the hems; fill the central parts with darning stitches worked in rows—it is best to mark off the central unworked space with lines before beginning this darning; this serves as a guide and prevents the stitching from encroaching on the space.

The galoon on either side is attached with button-holing and French knots—the spaces being filled with laid threads in cream, couched in the same colour. Latchet darns give emphasis and connect the green bars. Finally, the band of green is placed over the hem to finish it. The edges of the galoon are button-holed with blue to correspond with the rest of the runner.

Latchet darns are bands of weaving; the upright threads are laid, not too closely, to represent the warp threads, then the weft threads are woven in backwards and forwards; the edges are kept free exactly as in the other woven bars. These latchet darns make an excellent finish either to a bag, where they serve to hold the drawing-up cords, or to a dress, where they ornament or keep the belt in position.

All strands withdrawn, when of a useful length, should be carefully kept. They can be used in many different ways to make cords, tassels, or fringes.