[Contents.] [List of Illustrations]
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THE PORTICO DE GLORIA, IN THE CATHEDRAL OF SANTIAGO

G A L I C I A
THE SWITZERLAND OF SPAIN

BY
ANNETTE M. B. MEAKIN

“Lugar mais hermoso
No mundo n’hachara
Qu’aquel de Galicia
Galicia encantada.”
Rosalia Castro

WITH 105 ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP
METHUEN & CO.
36 ESSEX STREET W.C.
LONDON

First Published in 1909
THIS VOLUME
IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED
TO
HER MAJESTY
VICTORIA EUGENIA
GALICIA’S QUEEN

CONTENTS

CHAP. PAGE
[I.] Ancient Galicia[1]
[II.] The Geography of Galicia[17]
[III.] The First Golden Age[24]
[IV.] The Salve Regina[39]
[V.] The Language of Galicia[49]
[VI.] Pilgrims to Santiago[60]
[VII.] The Architecture of Galicia[78]
[VIII.] The Cathedral of Santiago[94]
[IX.] The Pórtico de Gloria[107]
[X.] Sculptured Capitals[126]
[XI.] The Royal Hospital[136]
[XII.] The Colegiata de Sar[145]
[XIII.] La Coruña[152]
[XIV.] Emigration[172]
[XV.] Rosalia Castro[182]
[XVI.] Santiago de Compostela[190]
[XVII.] Galicia’s Livestock[210]
[XVIII.] Padron[222]
[XIX.] La Bellísima Noya[231]
[XX.] Pontevedra[254]
[XXI.] Vigo and Tuy[276]
[XXII.] Orense[286]
[XXIII.] Monforte and Lugo[297]
[XXIV.] Betanzos and Ferrol[308]
[XXV.] The Great Monasteries of Galicia[317]
[XXVI.] Trees, Fruits, and Flowers[343]
[XXVII.] Dives Callaecia[352]
[Bibliography][359]
[Index]: [A], [B], [C], [D], [E], [F], [G], [H], [I], [J], [K], [L], [M], [N], [O], [P], [Q], [R], [S], [T], [U], [V], [W], [X], [Y], [Z][363]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

[The Pórtico de Gloria in the Cathedral of Santiago][Frontispiece]
FACING PACE
[Map of Galicia][1]
[The River Sil, Orense][22]
[Where the Sil joins the Cabe][57]
[A Mountain Vineyard][57]
[The Treasury, Santiago Cathedral][102]
[Puerta de las Platerias, Santiago Cathedral][102]
[Puerta Santa, Santiago Cathedral][102]
[The Silver Altar with Statue of St. James in Santiago Cathedral][104]
[The Stone Coffin in which the Lost Body of St. James was discovered in 1879. It had been hidden there when Sir Francis Drake attacked Coruña][104]
[Window in the Palace of Gelmirez][127]
[Archway in the Palace of Gelmirez][127]
[Sculpture in the Chapel beneath Santiago Cathedral][127]
[Sculpture in the Refectory of the Palace of Gelmirez][128]
[Sculpture in the Chapel][130]
[Sculptured Pillar in the Chapel][130]
[Entrance to the Chapel beneath Santiago Cathedral][130]
[Sculptured Capitals exactly beneath the Pórtico de Gloria][132]
[The Palace of Gelmirez][132]
[Entrance to the Royal Hospital at Santiago][136]
[Vestibule of the Royal Hospital][140]
[Cloister in the Royal Hospital][140]
[Convent of San Payo, where each Nun had a Separate Kitchen and a Maid to wait on her][142]
[Royal Hospital, Santiago][142]
[A Corner of a Cloister, Royal Hospital, Santiago][144]
[A Doorway leading to a Cloister, Royal Hospital, Santiago][144]
[A Sculptured Altar, Royal Hospital, Santiago][144]
[Interior of the Colegiata de Sar][147]
[Cloister of the Colegiata de Sar][147]
[Peasants in Costumes peculiar to Galicia][154]
[A Native Cart][158]
[A Street in La Coruña][158]
[A Water-Carrier][158]
[Keeping May Day][158]
[The Tower of Hercules][159]
[The Tomb of Sir John Moore on the Ramparts of La Coruña][159]
[Padron][228]
[Bridge of Alonso where the Tambre joins the Ria de Noya][228]
[Noya][234]
[The Bed of San Mamed, Noya][236]
[Cloister of San Justo de Tojosutos][236]
[Group of Musicians; one is holding the Galician Bagpipe][239]
[Merchant’s Palace of Sixteenth Century, Noya][239]
[Ruined Church of Cambados][256]
[Interior of Santa Maria la Grande][256]
[The Church of Santa Maria la Grande and Houses once inhabited by Merchant Fishermen][256]
[Old Jewish Quarter, Pontevedra][260]
[The Ruins of Santa Domingo now an Open-Air Archæological Museum, Pontevedra][260]
[Part of the Museum of Archæology, Pontevedra][262]
[Tomb of an Ambassador to Tamerlane in the Museum of Santa Domingo, Pontevedra][262]
[The Village of Combarro, Pontevedra][267]
[A Native Dovecot][267]
[Castello Mos, now the Summer Residence of the Marquis de la Vega de Armijo, Pontevedra][272]
[Prehistoric Writing discovered on Boulders near the Town of Pontevedra in 1907][274]
(From a Drawing by E. Campo)
[Bell Tower of the Cathedral, Tuy][282]
[The Cathedral at Tuy][282]
[Porch of Tuy Cathedral][284]
[Apse of the Parish Church at Allariz][289]
[Façade of the Church of El Mosteiro][289]
[Entrance to Orense Cathedral][289]
[Stone Reredos in the Capilla de los Condes, Monterrey][290]
[The Puente Mayor, one of the Wonders of Orense][290]
[Northern Entrance to Orense Cathedral][292]
[Side Entrance to the Church of Santa Domingo at Tuy][292]
[Romanesque Façade of the Parish Church at Allariz][292]
[Window in the Church of Santiago at Ribadavia][292]
[Tower near Monterrey][294]
[Church of Aquasantas][294]
[Apse of the Church of El Mosteiro][294]
[Apse of a Church near Orense][296]
[Conventual Church of the Monastery of Osera][296]
[Part of the Apse of the Church of Aquasantas][296]
[The Market-Place, Lugo][312]
[Children playing Hide-and-Seek among the Coffins exposed for Sale in a Street of Santiago][312]
[Romanesque Side Entrance to Church of Tiobre, Betanzos][312]
[Tomb of Andrada, Betanzos][312]
[The Monastery of Osera, Orense][321]
[Cloisters in the Monastery of Osera, two Pictures][321]
[Cloister in the Colegiata de Junquera de Ambia][321]
[Cloister in the Monastery of Celanova][329]
[Santa Comba de Bande][332]
[Horseshoe Arch in Santa Comba de Bande][332]
[Oratory of San Miguel in Garden of Celanova Monastery][332]
[Monastery and Church of Celanova][332]
[The River Cabe][335]
[My Guide leading me up to the Monastery of San Estevan][335]
[The Bishop’s Cloister, Monastery of San Estevan, Orense][338]
[Rock-hewn Chapel in the Monastery of San Pedro de Rocas][340]
[Vestibule of the Rock Chapels of San Pedro de Rocas][340]
[Primitive Maize Barn in Village near Osera][345]
[Mountain Slope cultivated in Steps or Terraces, Orense][345]