Climate
Extending from 30° to 35° South Latitude with no considerable elevation and being close to the sea, Uruguay naturally has a temperate climate with no great variation over its limited area. The temperature generally ranges from 40° to 90°. There is sufficient rainfall, about 40 inches, and the country is well watered. Its coast offers agreeable places for summer resorts, which are patronized both by natives and by Argentines. The country in general has a particularly salubrious climate, 244 sunny days, it is said, in the year.
CHAPTER XLIII
URUGUAY: CAPITAL, DEPARTMENTS, CHIEF CITIES, PORTS
The Capital
Montevideo, the capital and chief port of Uruguay, with a population approaching 400,000, is a pleasant city, a more homelike place than Buenos Aires and preferred as a residence by many, though doubtless more persons enjoy life better in the larger gayer capital. Favorably situated near the entrance, but on the Plata River, on a peninsula of high ground which shelters a good harbor on the west, while attractive beaches lie on the side towards the ocean, Montevideo is in some respects a contrast to South America’s metropolis, 100 miles distant, on the other shore. With fine drainage facilities it is a clean healthful city, well lighted, and well served by electric tramways. Pure water is brought a distance of 30 miles. Though with fine buildings, theatres, broad, well-paved avenues (150 miles of them), open squares, and attractive parks, the city seems quite up to date, yet somehow a trifle old fashioned, with an agreeable air of solid respectability. The hotels are comfortable, but only those facing the beaches, at a distance from the business section, are really of the first class. An underground telephone system is proposed.
Departments
Canelones is directly north and east of Montevideo, extending along the River Plata. In proximity to the Capital and with good rail connection, fruit growing and agriculture are important, viticulture is common; but even here the pastoral industry leads. Canelones boasts of several towns of 8000-10,000 population, one of which, Pando, a pleasant agricultural centre, is connected with Montevideo by a good macadamized road.
San José, west of Montevideo and Canelones, has industries similar to the latter with timber in addition, supplying wood for fuel and for building.
The capital, San José, with a population of 15,000, has the distinction of being the largest of the country towns as distinguished from the ports. It has a good macadam road to the capital, Montevideo, 60 miles, and an up-to-date flour mill.
Colonia, west of San José, running up to the entrance of the Uruguay, is called the richest Department of the Republic. Agriculture, dairy farming, fruit and viticulture are well developed; its stone quarries are worked; and lying opposite Buenos Aires, with good steamship service to that city as well as rail connection with Montevideo, it is certain of increasing prosperity.
The capital city of Colonia is a quiet old town with historic associations; a new town three miles east has been created as a pleasure resort. Colonia Suiza, with 4000 people and many Swiss chalets, is devoted to the dairy industry; one enterprising proprietor who began as a milk peddler now turns out from his factory in the spring one ton of butter daily.
Soriano on the Uruguay River, nevertheless has its chief town, Mercedes, population 18,000, on a tributary, the Rio Negro, here one-fourth of a mile wide. The main industry is cattle raising; the town has a saladero and is also a centre of charcoal making. Stone quarrying is carried on in the Department and some minerals exist, topaz and amethyst in considerable abundance. A peculiar water stone is of curious and undetermined origin.
Rio Negro follows on the north of the Negro River, the chief centre for the breeding of live stock, as might be expected from the fact that the capital is Fray Bentos, the original home of the Liebig industry, beginning in 1865. The company now owning nearly 5,000,000 acres, and establishments elsewhere, Fray Bentos is of less relative importance than formerly; yet with 180,000 cattle slaughtered here in a single season, the business is considerable. It is quite a model town, with good streets and homes for employes, schools, etc.
Paysandú, the next Department north, has a larger population of which the capital of that name contains nearly half, 22,000, being the second city of the Republic in commercial importance. Electric lights and telephones are in service, also horse cars. Here the stream narrows and this is the last port of call for ocean steamers. The chief employments in the Department are agricultural and pastoral; there are some meat curing factories.
Salto, Department and city, each with larger population than the Department south, is also a pastoral region; but it is rich in minerals, and is an important wine producing district, where a great variety of other fruits, including oranges, flourish well. Here the Uruguay River is bridged to Concordia in Argentina, an important railway centre. This is called the head of navigation, as here are falls and rocks, but smaller boats ply the river above.
Artigas, the most northern Department with a long frontier on Argentina and Brazil both, has some railway service, though not the main line to Brazil. The capital, Artigas, population 10,000, is on the Brazilian border. This Department has more timber, hard and soft, and less agriculture and grazing. Some districts are noted for minerals and precious stones.
Rivera is next along the Brazilian border, one of the largest Departments. The capital, population 15,000, is a clean, well paved town, of growing importance as the terminus of the Central Uruguay Railway, here connecting with the Brazilian Railway to São Paulo. The Department, though thinly peopled, has considerable agriculture and gold mines of importance.
Tacuarembó, directly south, largest of all the Departments, is the most sparsely populated. It is chiefly devoted to agriculture; tobacco flourishes, and rice culture has met with some success. Gold and manganese are found.
Cerro Largo next to Rivera on the Brazilian border is chiefly pastoral with agriculture advancing. Its prosperity is likely to increase with connection with Brazil now planned from the capital, Melo, 14,000 population, the present railway terminus.
Treinta y Tres, its capital with 8000 population, is chiefly pastoral with very little agriculture; it is well wooded with valuable timber. The great Lake Mirím along the eastern border is of much value, and further railway construction will promote development.
Rocha, south of Treinta y Tres, has also a long eastern frontier on the Lake, a bit of Brazil, and much on the Atlantic. Grazing is the chief industry with some viticulture. Seal fishery is important, and there are minerals: copper, gypsum, alabaster, marble, jasper.
Maldonado, south of Rocha and east of Canelones, also borders on the ocean at the southeast. Chiefly pastoral, the Department has some agriculture and wine making. There is seal fishing on the islands off the coast. Timber will soon be important as tree planting is encouraged by the Government. The British Consul received a gold medal for planting over 10,000 maritime pines. The beginning was difficult, the young trees being continually buried in masses of sand. Dunes are characteristic of this coast. But when the trees were once established continuance was easy and now 100,000 or more are flourishing in this section. Others followed the example, making land formerly worthless now rated at $5-$25 an acre. Piriápolis, a new town west of the capital city, is a remarkable place due to the patriotic energy of Señor Piria, who here began planting trees over 20 years ago. These are now a forest, with millions of trees, seven miles of eucalyptus woodland stretching from the Piria castle to the ocean, near which a hotel has been erected and chalets, the beginning of a prosperous town and summer resort. A railway serves this western edge of Maldonado.
Minas is back of Maldonado and west of Rocha. It has pastoral and agricultural industries with a good endowment of minerals.
Florida, west of Minas and north of Canelones, abounds in cattle and is developing agriculture.
Durazno, north, in the centre of the Republic, is also chiefly devoted to cattle raising.
Flores, west of Durazno, is not well populated and is chiefly pastoral.
Ports
Ocean Ports. The only ocean port of importance in Uruguay is Montevideo and this indeed is on the Plata River. It ranks, however, among the best in South America in depth, capacity, and ease of access, admitting ships of 32-foot draft at low tide. A free port for goods in transit, where they may remain a year in the Custom House without tax, it has excellent docks and harbor works, including ample warehouses and facilities for handling all classes of merchandise, 1400 tons unloaded in ten hours. A port railway serves to connect sea and land traffic, transferring passengers as well as freight directly from steamers to railway cars. The port works constructed by the French, concluded for the most part before the War, cost in the neighborhood of $40,000,000. In the vicinity a Hotel for Immigrants accommodates 1000.
Ships of many lines call in passing, passenger steamers for Buenos Aires and many which do not go up the river, either because of too heavy draft, or to save time when on the way to the West Coast or to other ports. For some this is the ultimate destination. Nightly trips between the two great cities are made by steamers of the Mihanovich Line, which rival all but the finest plying between New York and Boston. Smaller steamers sail from here or pause on their way up the Uruguay, or the Paraná and the Paraguay, the latter perhaps going through to Corumbá, 1800 miles, those for the Uruguay at most 300 miles to Salto or Concordia.
River Ports. Montevideo would strictly come under this head. Others of importance are Colonia on the Plata and Paysandú on the Uruguay, to which ocean steamers of 14-foot draft may ascend; to Salto beyond, steamers of 8-foot draft. Above the rapids at Salto on the Uruguay and on a few of its branches smaller steamboats and other craft are used. The Rio Negro is navigable 50 miles to the town of Mercedes. The entire fluvial navigation is 700 miles. The Uruguay Navigation Company with a capital of $10,000,000 has recently been organized for traffic on the Plata, Paraná, Uruguay, and Paraguay Rivers.
CHAPTER XLIV
URUGUAY: TRANSPORTATION, RESOURCES AND INDUSTRIES
Railways
Even more than in Argentina the railways have been developed by British capital. The first concession in 1865 was for a road from Montevideo to the Rio Negro. Construction has been more expensive than on the plains of the neighboring Republic, on account of rolling country and the many bridges required, over 300. There is a single tunnel, in the Department Rocha. Happily all of the railways are of the same gauge, the standard, 4 feet 8¹⁄₂ inches. The length of those in operation is 1680 miles, the greatest in proportion to area of any country in South America.
The Central Uruguay, with its extensions, is the main line from which most of the others branch. The original ran from Montevideo to the Rio Negro in the centre of the Republic, from which it was prolonged to the northern border at Rivera. In May, 1917, closer connection was established with Sant’ Anna, across the Brazilian border, and sleeping car service to São Paulo in 4¹⁄₂ days, which should shortly be 3¹⁄₂. The prolongation is called the Northern Extension. The Eastern Extension starts at Toledo, 16 miles from Montevideo, diverging to San Ramón, Nico Peréz, and Melo, with a branch from Nico Peréz, to Treinta y Tres, 311 miles in all. The Western Extension runs from San José on a branch of the Central, to Mal Abrigo and Mercedes. From Abrigo a line goes to Rosario and Puerto del Sauce, and from Rosario on to Colonia, altogether 211 miles.
Other roads are the Midland and the Northwestern, the former connecting with the Central near the Rio Negro, passing west to Paysandú, then north to Salto, while the Northwestern runs 113 miles from Salto to Cabellos, then northwest to the corner of the Republic, there connecting by an international bridge across the Cuareim River with Quarahim, Brazil, and its Great Southern Railway running northward. At Salto there is considerable interchange of traffic with Argentina through Concordia opposite, an important railway junction and city. At Cabellos connection is made with the Uruguay Northern, another road running to the Brazilian Boundary, the terminus San Eugenio.
The Uruguay East Coast Railway with 78 miles of road, starting from Olmas on the Central Uruguay runs to Maldonado. Much of the traffic is to the seaside resorts, Puente del Este and Piriápolis; there is also considerable freight for the Montevideo market, of agricultural and pastoral products and fish. An extension northward from San Carlos to Rocha is authorized. The road has been purchased by the Government. A line from Durazno on the Central to Trinidad, begun by the Farquhar-Pearson Syndicate as part of a line designed to cross the country diagonally from Colonia to the Brazilian border, was taken over by the Government, which has in view the securing of a system of State railways. Besides building the 31-mile line from San Carlos on the East Coast Railway it intends purchasing the 23-mile line from Rocha to the port Paloma. Further needed construction is planned by the Government as soon as may be practicable.
Aeroplane service is to be installed by a British company from Montevideo to Rio de Janeiro and Pernambuco, and aerial postal service is planned for the interior.
Resources and Industries
Stock raising is by far the leading industry, as is evident from the fact that in 1917 nearly 98 per cent of the exports were of stock products. Of the 44 million acres devoted to livestock and agriculture the latter occupies hardly 5 per cent. In 1603, 100 cattle and two herds of horses were brought into the country; the cattle increased so rapidly that at one time they were killed for their hides, as more recently in Paraguay. Since 1860 when Durham bulls were imported and stock breeding began, much advance has been made in quality. Herefords, Devon, a few Polled Angus and others have also been imported; some for dairy purposes, as Swiss and Flemish. In 1917 the cattle numbered about 8,000,000. The best estancias have sheds to house pedigreed stock, they plant trees and have cattle dips. Societies encourage scientific breeding and the Government subsidizes agricultural shows. One estancia of 60,000 acres has 15,000 cattle, 20,000 sheep, some horses, and pays dividends of 16-25 per cent on a capital of £120,000. Another company with 40,000 acres and a capital of £40,000 pays dividends of 14-20 per cent. At least 20,000 acres are devoted to dairy farming; 50,000 pounds of butter are made monthly, and both butter and cheese are exported. The best of apparatus is employed.
Sheep, imported from Argentina in 1608, flourish to the number of 11,700,000; the varieties of Merino, Lincoln, Romney Marsh are found among others, the English breeds being preferred.
Horses of good quality are raised, 570,000, both light and heavy, but few in comparison to the cattle. There are 300,000 pigs, a few mules, 16,000, and 12,000 goats.
Meat Packing. In 1754 the first meat salting plant was established but the true pioneer dates from 1786. Others followed. There are now 13 besides seven factories for preserving meat and two frigorificos. The slaughter season is from November to January. The meat for saladeros is separated from the bones, dried 4-6 days in the sun, and then salted. It is arranged in four grades according to fat or lean; the fat meat is sent to Brazil, the lean to Cuba and elsewhere.
Of frigorificos the Swifts own one, and exported to Europe in 1915 and 1916, each, over 700,000 frozen quarters of beef and 100,000 chilled; also mutton and lamb. The Frigorifica Uruguaya shipped nearly 44,000,000 pounds of beef to Europe in 1916 and over 2,000,000 pounds of mutton. The total export of animal products shipped in 1916 was worth $73,000,000. A model slaughter house and cold storage plant is in prospect. A new one for wool washing has a capacity of 132,000 pounds daily. Saving in freight cost and immunity from deterioration are thereby attained.
The Liebig Extract of Beef Company, with extensive holdings in and near Fray Bentos and with a total capitalization of £2,000,000 usually pays 20 per cent dividends on the ordinary shares; 5 per cent in 1916. They use the best of meat, and their Oxo capsules and Lemco have a world-wide reputation. They own and rent in Uruguay, Argentina, and Paraguay 1,120,000 acres.
In spite of strikes and labor troubles the livestock industry has brought prosperity to the country, with record prices for beef, mutton, hides, and wool, thus greatly increasing land values. The cattle are pastured on the natural long thick grass, very little alfalfa being cultivated. Hogs, hens, bees, and silkworms are raised. The seal industry and fisheries are important.
Agriculture
The agricultural products are insufficient for the use of the country although 2,000,000 acres are in cultivation. About 900,000 acres are in wheat, 700,000 in corn, 128,000 in flax, 100,000 oats, some barley and canary seed. In 1916 agricultural exports were valued at $1,500,000. Among other crops are tobacco, which is especially promising, linseed, alfalfa, sugar cane, some cotton, potatoes, etc. Viticulture is quite extensive, American grapes growing better in the south, and French and Italian in the north. Other fruits, oranges, olives, apples, pears, cherries, peaches, and melons flourish.
Forestry
Forestry is encouraged so far as planting is concerned; about 1,000,000 acres are in natural forest land. Millions of trees have been planted on land not otherwise useful. The supply of wood in future will be greatly increased and there may even be export.
Minerals
Minerals are of some importance and may become of more. The country is believed to contain considerable wealth in gold, silver, coal, marble, jasper; and in other minerals and semi-precious stones, including amethyst and topaz. There is little export save sand, stone for paving, and similar articles.
Gold. The chief gold fields are in the Department Rivera near Cuñapiru not far from the Brazilian border. A district 35-40 miles long and 7 wide contains auriferous reef with gold 5 ounces to the ton; if deep the prospect is limitless. A modern English plant is now getting out gold. Bars worth $4000 were exported in 1915. Four hundred mines have been denounced in the Department. Enormous quantities of manganese are in the neighborhood. Gold is found also in Minas, Salto, and Tacuarembó.
Copper exists in quantity in Cerro Largo, Maldonado, Minas, Paysandú, and Salto. Iron, silver, slate, gypsum, asbestos, lead, etc. may be exploited later. Even greatly needed coal of fair quality has been found in Montevideo, Santa Lucía, and especially in Cerro Largo where it seems promising, though no working of minerals is sufficiently developed to present decisive results. Indications of petroleum have been noted at the north, the strata coming in from Brazil.
Manufactures
Naturally manufacturing save for home consumption is of slight importance, except of products of the pastoral industry, as of dairies and of meat extract. For home use there are 115 flour mills, 45 others, as of hardware, soap, macaroni; 1 sugar factory, 3 starch, 1 cement, 4 breweries. Many of these are in Montevideo. The Government proposes the construction of chemical factories for the production of sulphuric, nitric, carbolic, and acetic acid, glycerine, benzol, alcohol, sulphuric ether, etc., and a powder and explosive factory; these to cost over $2,000,000, material and machinery to enter free of duty.
An important project of the Government is the development of water power from the cataracts of the Uruguay River, which will be equivalent to 3,000,000 tons of coal per annum. Two dams are planned, one movable and one fixed, with canals by which 419 miles of river will be open to navigation from the lower section. Irrigation is included in the project, and 37,000 acres near Montevideo are to be irrigated as an illustration. Fifteen cities have authorized work in connection with this project.
Investments
Aside from the development of hydro-electric power and the construction of public works of various kinds including railways, it is probable that agriculture and fisheries present the most favorable openings, with good possibilities also in manufacturing industries, stone cutting, and mining. Stock raising is already pretty well developed.
CHAPTER XLV
BRAZIL: AREA, HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, POPULATION, ETC.
The country of Brazil, largest of the South American Republics, has also a greater area than the United States without Alaska, and is more than three-fourths the size of all Europe. It cannot therefore be considered as a whole so easily as the other Republics. It is essential to differentiate between the various regions and States; for the dissimilarity is not confined to climate and productions; or to the character of the people, by reason of some being indigenous and others of European descent. It arises in part from the long coast line and the difficulty of land communication; in part from the fact that in some districts the population is almost entirely of European descent while in others there is a large percentage of negro blood; as well as from differences in physical and climatic conditions. Thus the Capital is not so markedly the centre of the Republic as in Argentina, and the States are more loosely bound together than in the other Republics. The States and the character of the people may be said to differ as much among themselves as the countries of the West Coast from each other, a point of importance to notice in commercial relations.
Area, Population, Boundary
Area. Brazil covers a surface of 3,112,453 square miles. Its length, 2750 miles, is about that of Chile; its extreme width, 2560 miles, is ten times at great. The coast-line is much longer, 4140 miles. A considerable portion of this immense area is still but superficially explored.
Population. According to the cabled report of the census of 1920, Brazil has 30,553,509 inhabitants. Its population, therefore, exceeds that of any other South American Republic even more largely than its area.
Boundary. The boundary of the country, though familiar from that of the others, may be rehearsed. On the north we find Colombia, Venezuela, and the three Guianas with the Atlantic beyond; on the east and southeast the Atlantic only, on the south Uruguay, a speck of Argentina, Paraguay, Bolivia, a bit of Peru; on the west a small corner of Argentina, Paraguay, Bolivia, and Peru. The only countries of the continent not touching its border are Ecuador and Chile. However, a few writers mention Ecuador on the west, as the southeast boundary line of that country is still undetermined.
History
The first of the South American countries to be discovered after Colombia and Venezuela, it was to the region of Brazil that the name America was first applied. It is therefore especially unbecoming for us to appropriate to ourselves in any exclusive sense the title of Americans; though having no other name, with apologies to the others, it may be pardonable for us to employ it when necessary.
In the year 1500 the first landing on this part of the continent was made by Pedro Alvares Cabral, then on his way from Portugal to the West Indies. In commemoration of that event, May 3rd is a Brazilian national holiday and the date of the assembling of Congress. As soon as the news was received in the home country, an expedition was sent out under Amerigo Vespucci, who explored the coast from its eastern extremity almost to La Plata, nearly 2000 miles. Fifteen Captaincies, each 150 miles along the coast, were later allotted and settlements were begun. The earliest of these which rose to importance were São Vicente in the neighborhood of Santos, and Pernambuco; a little later, Bahia and Rio de Janeiro. These were the first agricultural colonies to be founded in South America, gold and silver being the attraction elsewhere. The French also had an eye to this country, making a settlement at Rio de Janeiro; the Dutch as well, who about a century later captured Bahia and Pernambuco; but both were ultimately expelled, the whole country remaining in the hands of the Portuguese. Conflicts with the Indians took place, at first with some who were unfriendly, and afterwards through attacks made by the invaders upon those Indians who had been christianized by the Jesuits. Their settlements were destroyed, 300,000 are said to have been slaughtered, and the rest were driven by the Paulistas from the region of the upper Paraná.
As Philip II of Spain in 1581 became ruler of Portugal, during the 60 years following, the expansion of Brazil to the west in territory which had been assigned to Spain was permitted, and such possession remained permanent. At other times conflicts occurred with the Spaniards at the south, but in 1777 peace was made with the boundaries as at present.
In 1807, Prince João, fleeing from Napoleon, came with his court to Brazil. He soon opened the five chief ports to commerce, he encouraged science, education, literature, art, and the immigration of foreigners, thus inaugurating a development of permanent value. On his return to Europe in 1821, the Prince, in view of the revolts of the Spanish colonies, hinted to his son whom he left in charge the advisability of himself assuming the crown, if a disposition towards independence became manifest. Accordingly in 1822, the son was crowned Emperor of Brazil; but having alienated his supporters, in 1831 he abdicated in favor of his infant son, Pedro. In 1889, the old Emperor, Dom Pedro II, who for many years had ruled wisely and well, was expelled on 24 hours’ notice; after a brief interim a Republic was established in 1891. Extravagance, insurrections, and financial distress followed, but since 1900 the country has made rapid advancement in wealth and in varied lines of development.
Government
The government is a federalized republic with the usual branches, the States more loosely bound together than with us, or than in any other South American Republic. They may even fix export taxes, and levy stamp duties. The President, with a Vice President, is elected for four years and is ineligible for a succeeding term. He has a Cabinet of seven Ministers. Congress is composed of a Senate with 63 members and a Chamber of 212 Deputies. There are 20 States, a Federal District, and the Territory of Acre. The last is composed of three Prefectures, with capital cities where government is administered by Government appointees. The States have their own administrative bodies, some with one house of legislation, some with two; and with a Governor or President as chief executive, a slight confusion possibly arising at times where the latter term is employed. All male citizens over 21 may vote except illiterates, soldiers, beggars, and members of monastic orders subject to vows of obedience, a wise prescription. The list of States precedes, with the usual figures, as accurate as obtainable, the areas from the latest Government survey. The list begins at the northwest, goes down the coast, and follows with the interior.
| States | Area, in square miles | Population | Capitals | Population | Altitude, in feet |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Amazonas | 645,940 | 435,000 | Manaos | 60,000 | 131 |
| Pará | 399,000 | 992,300 | Belem | 250,000 | 23 |
| Maranhão | 150,830 | 853,000 | Maranhão | 40,000 | 198 |
| Piauhy | 89,850 | 548,250 | Therezina | 35,000 | |
| Ceará | 62,160 | 1,436,300 | Fortaleza | 65,000 | |
| Rio Grande do Norte | 15,925 | 552,000 | Natal | 20,000 | 25 |
| Parahyba | 22,548 | 785,100 | Parahyba | 20,000 | |
| Pernambuco | 38,570 | 1,975,440 | Recife | 200,000 | |
| Alagôas | 10,400 | 990,000 | Maceió | 40,000 | |
| Sergipe | 8,983 | 535,000 | Aracajú | 30,000 | |
| Bahia | 206,990 | 3,373,000 | São Salvador | 300,000 | 147 |
| Espirito Santo | 16,860 | 479,200 | Victoria | 20,000 | |
| Rio de Janeiro | 16,408 | 1,502,000 | Nictheroy | 30,000 | |
| São Paulo | 101,890 | 4,823,000 | São Paulo | 510,000 | 2,510 |
| Paraná | 73,465 | 674,300 | Curityba | 50,000 | 2,980 |
| Santa Catharina | 43,168 | 633,000 | Florianopolis | 30,000 | |
| Rio Grande do Sul | 92,350 | 2,138,800 | Porto Alegre | 125,000 | |
| Minas Geraes | 227,238 | 5,789,000 | Bello Horizonte | 35,000 | 3,081 |
| Goyaz | 284,000 | 529,000 | Goyaz | 18,000 | 1,577 |
| Matto Grosso | 554,400 | 274,100 | Cuyabá | 32,000 | 953 |
| Territory of Acre | 67,712 | 104,000 | |||
| Federal District | 450 | 1,150,080 | Rio de Janeiro | 1,150,080 |
Population
The population, by the recent census 30,553,509, is of a more varied character than that of Uruguay and Argentina at the south. Some figures given are 52 per cent white, 26 mixed, 13 Indian, and 9 per cent negro. The original settlers were Portuguese, and at first immigration was from the mother country. In the early days many negroes were imported from Africa as slaves, yet there was little color prejudice so that the number of mulattoes and lighter as well as of negroes in some sections is very large.
During the last hundred years over 3,000,000 immigrants have arrived, of whom the Italians formed the larger proportion; next in number were the Portuguese, half as many Spaniards; those of other nationalities included 100,000 Germans, and a small colony from our Southern States, who left in disgust in 1867. The negroes, freed in 1888 and endowed with suffrage, were less qualified for it than in the United States. While some have made good advancement others have relapsed into a worse condition, being able in many parts of the country to exist on almost nothing. Indolence is a failing among many of all complexions, as is natural in tropical regions; on the other hand many Brazilians even in the warmer sections are characterized by great activity and industry. In the large cities culture and elegance are noticeable and aristocracy of birth is cherished. In some regions the inhabitants are less pretentious, live more simply, and practise the homely virtues; the most primitive section according to Oakenfull is between the São Francisco River and Maranhão. Women in general are more secluded than in some of the other Republics. The Brazilians have much literary and artistic taste and as a rule are punctilious in courtesy, though exceptions may be noted.
Education
Education is highly regarded in Brazil. Primary and secondary are free and secular, generally provided by the States and Municipalities. The Federal Government administers several Professional Schools as of Medicine, Law, Engineering, etc., and many of Agriculture in various parts of the country. With some of these, local schools are affiliated, as Schools of Law, of Applied Science, at Rio of Social Science, at Recife Engineering, etc. The different States spend 4-21 per cent of their revenue on primary education, averaging above ten. The Federal District spends 28 per cent. There are also private schools in different cities, several English or American; the American Mackenzie College at São Paulo is affiliated with the University of the State of New York.
Press, Religion, etc.
The Press is influential and of high quality, the leading papers of Rio, São Paulo, and other cities comparing well with those of cities of corresponding size in other parts of the world.
Religion. In Brazil there is entire separation of Church and State and absolute religious freedom. Civil marriage alone is recognized.
Post and Telegraph. Brazil has 3700 Post Offices.
Telegraph wires (over 26,000 miles) are in part national; other lines belong to the railways; there are submarine cables, and one up the Amazon. Wireless stations have been installed at many points on the coast and in the interior, including the Amazon district, as at Manaos and beyond. Telephones are to be found in all cities of any considerable size, about 80 systems.
Money is more complicated and bothersome than in any of the other countries, the unit being of 1000 instead of 100 parts, as is usual. Thus the milreis, written 1$000, equals 1000 reis as the name indicates. The milreis of gold is equal to 54.6 cents, but exchange varies, and the paper in common use varies from its ordinary value, 33.3 cents, to half that or even less in disturbed conditions. A conto of reis, a term often used, is 1000 milreis, and is written with a colon, thus: 5 contos, 20 milreis, and 300 reis would be written 5:20$300.
The Metric System is legal and compulsory, but in some places, the old Portuguese measures persist; these differ from the Spanish. A vara in Peru is less than a yard, but in Brazil it is 1.111 metre, or 1.215 yard. A libra is 4.695 kilos; an alquiere varies from 24 to 160 litres. Other variety exists in the same or in different places.
CHAPTER XLVI
BRAZIL: PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Brazil presents in physical characteristics more variety than is generally supposed. As the great Amazon Basin is in striking contrast to the immense Andean Range, the entire country is thought of as hot. Since it extends from 5° 10′ N. Lat. to 33° 45′ S. Lat. with the widest part near the equator, the greater portion of the territory is evidently in the torrid zone, 11° only in the temperate, with more than twice that in the tropics. However, in this comparatively low country, there is happily a variation in altitude sufficient to affect the climate and to give rise to variety in productions; to which diversity the 11° in the temperate zone also contribute. The territory may be considered as in four general sections: the Amazon Basin, the Plata (the two almost connected over low elevations), the Coastal Belt, and a mass of mountains and highlands along the coastal states, extending also at a lower level across to Bolivia. In addition there are the Guiana Highlands at the north.
The Coastal Belt
The coastal section is largely a low-lying sandy tract, varied by swamp lands overgrown with palms or other verdure, and slopes covered with dense tropical vegetation. Without deep indentations in the form of gulfs and bays there is a considerable number of good harbors. In the far south two large lakes have been created which are connected with the ocean. The coastal strip varies in width from one to 100 miles.
The Guiana Highlands
Of the mountainous regions, the range forming the boundary line with Venezuela and Guiana on the north with its offshoots and the country between has attracted little interest and been but slightly explored. From Mt. Roraima, 8500 feet, at the corner of Venezuela and British Guiana, the range lowers toward the East, the highest point on the French frontier being about 2600 feet. South of this are broken ranges and deep river courses on the Brazilian plateau, which with an altitude of 2000 feet slopes south and east. Excepting the part near the coast, this section called Brazilian Guiana is semi-arid, on account of the mountains extracting the moisture from the northeast trade winds. Inhabited by a few roving bands of Indians and in the east visited by white mining adventurers, it has been deemed one of the least attractive parts of the Republic. Recent exploration, however, has reported an extent of valuable forest lands and immense areas of open country suited to cattle ranges. A railway from British Guiana is talked of to render this district accessible to the outside world.
The Plateau and Mountain Region
An important part of Brazil is the plateau region (altitude 1000-3000 feet) south of the Amazon, especially that portion extending along the coastal states. The greater part of the central section was once covered with a thick sandstone sheet, now deeply eroded by numerous rivers which have left high flat ridges between the lower basins. The true mountain systems which rise from the plateau are parallel ranges following the coast, and the Central or Goyana system. An almost continuous range, the Serra do Mar, stretches from Rio Grande do Sul to Cape Frio, just east of Rio de Janeiro; beyond this, farther from the coast, broken sections extend well towards Cape St. Roque in Rio Grande do Norte. The highest point in the Serra do Mar or Coast Range is 7223 feet in the Organ Mountains near Rio, as the capital city is often called for short and may be so understood when here used.
A second parallel range runs from Eastern São Paulo northeast and north to the point where the São Francisco River turns east in Bahia; Itatiaiá, 9823 feet, in Rio de Janeiro State, is its culminating point in Brazil. West of the São Francisco River is the Central or Goyaz Range, also in two branches, running from the southern part of Goyaz northeast, one branch across western Minas Geraes, the other in Goyaz with highlands extending far north separating the Tocantins Basin from the São Francisco, and in the south separating it from the Paraná. The highest point is near the city of Goyaz, Mt. Pyraneus, 7750 feet. How the great table-land has been broken down by rivers is shown by the Tocantins-Araguaya Basin excavated northward for 700 miles. From 100 to 500 miles wide, it is from 10 to 1500 feet deep.
The eastern margin of the plateau is near the Atlantic where it breaks off suddenly with an average height of 2600-3200 feet. This plateau is the best part of the country, the Atlantic slope heavily wooded, the more gradual west slope with many grass covered plains. A fertile soil, rich forests, and regular rainfall make this a favored region. Farther north than Minas Geraes, the section has less rain, is thinly wooded in places, with large areas suited to grazing but subject to drought. The plateau extends across Brazil north of Paraguay abruptly breaking down from a height of 2600-3000 feet towards the Paraná and Paraguay Basins. It has a gradual slope towards the Amazon, the parts excavated by the rivers having lowland characteristics.
The Amazon Basin
The section of the Amazon Basin is indeed immense. The whole drainage area with that of the Tocantins, generally included though not strictly a component part, spreads over 2,700,000 square miles, much of it as we have already seen outside of Brazil, and occupying two-fifths of South America. This area is greater than the basins of the Mississippi, Missouri, Danube, and Nile, all combined. The course of one tributary to the sea is 3200 miles. Of the 55 largest rivers in the world, it is said that 33 are mainly if not wholly in Brazil. Twenty-seven thousand miles of navigable rivers are found in the country, the greater part connected with the Amazon, which is itself navigable for ocean steamers to Iquitos, Peru, a distance of 2300 miles, and 486 miles farther for vessels of 14 feet draft. The true mouth of the Amazon is west and north of the Marajos Island which is greater in area than Holland or Belgium, while the Pará River at the south and east is the mouth of the Tocantins. This, however, is the usual entrance for Amazon steamers even when they do not wish to call at Pará, for this river is connected by natural channels among islands with the greater stream, and the northern entrance has too strong a current to be desirable for navigation. As a matter of convenience the Tocantins is generally included with the Amazon in descriptions. The depth of the estuary is 90-900 feet, averaging 150.
The Tocantins River is a great artery of Brazil flowing from south to north a distance of 1600 miles, with a west affluent, the Araguaya, almost its equal in size and 1000 miles long above the union. Both rivers receive many tributaries. The flat broad valleys are overlooked by steep bluffs. The cataracts and rapids which occur on nearly all of the rivers as they come down from the plateau greatly interfere with navigation, but in their lower courses many are navigable for hundreds of miles, the Tocantins for 130.
The Xingú, the next river, with a length of 1260 miles is the first true tributary of the Amazon on the south. This also flows nearly north with many rapids and at last a fall, Itamaracá, at the head of navigation, 105 miles from its mouth. Near this the river expands into a great lake which communicates with the Amazon by many natural channels.
The Tapajós, 1158 miles long, entering the Amazon about 500 miles above Pará, rises near Diamantino on the plateau, and flows through a long, hot, unhealthful valley. One hundred and eighty-eight miles are navigable, the lower 100 of these being 4-9 miles wide and throughout much of its course very deep. Along the lower river valley are bluffs 300-400 feet high.
The Madeira, entering 870 miles above Pará, almost rivals the Amazon in volume. In the rainy season, during which it rises 50 feet, the largest ocean steamers may ascend 665 miles to the falls of Santo Antonio and the Madeira-Mamoré Railway; from June to December it is navigable for vessels of 5-6 foot draft only. Tributary to the Madeira on the east is the river formerly called the Duvida, first completely traversed by Colonel Roosevelt and his party and now named in his honor Rio Roosevelt. The Madeira which has 90 tributaries and a basin of over 600,000 square miles is formed a little higher up by the junction of the Beni and Mamoré, both of which streams rise close to the head waters of the Paraguay. From Santo Antonio south, the Madeira-Mamoré is obstructed for 263 miles by a series of rapids and cataracts, the Madeira Falls, where the Beni comes in, presenting a vast display of whirlpool and boiling torrents. Above Santo Antonio the drainage is received of the southwest slope of the State of Matto Grosso, the north slope of the Chiquitos Sierras, and the northeast slope of the Andes from Santa Cruz de la Sierra in Bolivia to Cuzco in Peru. The most important of the affluents are the Guaporé, Baurés, Itonamas, Mamoré, Beni, and Madre de Dios. The almost level Mojos and Beni plains are said to rival if not to exceed in fertility the Nile Valley; they are the most healthful and most inviting grazing and agricultural regions in the Amazon Basin, which has an area about equal to that of France and Spain. However, 35,000 square miles are flooded 2-3 feet, three or four months every year.
The Purús, over 2000 miles in length, is a very sluggish stream parallel to the Madeira, in the great depression between the Brazilian plateau and the Andes. A peculiar feature is five parallel canals coming into it from the Amazon northwest at almost regular intervals, making five low islands; and nearer to the great river are three more. The Purús is navigable for light steamers 1648 miles five months in the year; for 800 miles its depth is not less than 45 feet. The lands are subject to inundation, the river at times rising 50 feet.
The Juruá is a similar river, navigable for 1133 miles.
The Javary, the boundary line between Brazil and Peru, is navigable for craft 260 miles. The region is occupied by savages.
The Trombetes. On the north side of the Amazon there are fewer important rivers, the Trombetes, the first from the east, which is navigable 135 miles, comes from the Guiana Highlands.
The Negro, 900 miles from Pará, 1500 miles long, is navigable for 450 miles forming midway a succession of lagoons, and overflowing its banks, often for a width of 20 miles. The rivers farther west have been sufficiently described.
The average depth of the Amazon is 50 feet, the current is three miles an hour. Beginning to rise in November the river is fullest in June, then falling to November. The Madeira, which rises and falls two months earlier, is in places 4-6 miles wide. The width of the Amazon is 20-60 miles, while in periods of inundation the forest is partly submerged for a width of 400 miles.
The Plata Basin
A much smaller portion of Brazil lies in the basin of La Plata; this, at least for the moment, is the best and richest part of the entire country, containing the greatest population outside of the coastal fringe.
The Uruguay. At the south the several rivers forming the Uruguay, which rise in the Serra do Mar, drain Rio Grande do Sul and part of Santa Catharina, while from there up to the north end of São Paulo and into Goyaz only a narrow coast region is outside the Paraná Basin.
The Paraná. The most remote source of the Paraná, that of the branch Paranahyba, is in the Serra Pyreneos in Goyaz, while the Rio Grande branch rises in the Serra da Mantiqueira near the peak Itatiaiá, so to say, in sight of Rio. Many affluents are received from the States of São Paulo and Paraná, these generally flowing northwest or west; the Paraná itself flows southwest forming the western boundary of those States. A branch, the Tiété, in São Paulo, 700 miles long, is broken by 54 rapids and two falls. The Paranapanema in Paraná, 600 miles long, is navigable for 30 miles. The Iguassú, rising in the Serra do Mar in Santa Catharina and flowing west is hardly navigable for canoes.
Twenty-eight miles above the mouth of the Tiété the course of the Paraná is interrupted by the Falls of Urubupungá. From here to the Guaira or Sete Quedas Falls, 400 miles, there is unobstructed navigation. At this point the river forms a lake 4¹⁄₂ miles long and 2¹⁄₂ wide before cutting through the Serra de Maracajú. Then after rushing through a deep and narrow gorge for two miles, it plunges down a long cañon hardly 200 feet wide in a series of rapids or falls called the Sete Quedas, Seven Falls. It is reported as able to supply over a million horse power, probably the most of any cataract in the world. Again the river is navigable from a little below the falls, and with regular service it forms an outlet for the State of Paraná to the ocean.
The Paraguay. The River Paraguay rises near Diamantino in Matto Grosso receiving a number of tributaries from that State, one of which, the Cuyabá, called the São Lourenço lower down, has its source close to that of the Tapajós branch of the Amazon.
Coast Rivers and Lakes
Other rivers flow directly into the Atlantic, several of some importance. North of the Amazon a few small rivers are called auriferous, the Araguary of considerable length. South of the Amazon Delta, some rivers flow north and northeast among the mountain ridges, others directly to the ocean. Of the former the most important are the Parnahyba, 900 miles long, navigable in sections, and farther south the São Francisco, the largest river of the coastal region, navigable 192 miles from the coast to the fine Paulo Affonso Falls, and above these for a much greater distance. The Jequitinhonha, 500 miles long, has 84 miles navigable. The most important river south of the São Francisco is the Parahyba do Sul, 658 miles long, rising in the State of São Paulo and flowing across Rio. It is navigable from its mouth a distance of 57 miles and 90 in its upper course.
The Ribeira de Iguapé. The only coast river of economic importance south of Cape Frio is the Ribeira de Iguapé which rises on the table-land of Paraná and after receiving several affluents breaks through the mountains near the boundary of São Paulo. Besides a navigable channel of 118 miles it communicates with an inland waterway called the Iguapé or Mar Pequeno, extending many miles along the coast. In Rio Grande do Sul, where the coastal plain extends half across the State, several rivers partly navigable flow into the important Lagôa dos Patos, with which is connected by a navigable channel, 61 miles long, the Lagôa Mirím.
Lakes. The Lakes of Brazil are few in comparison with the rivers. Those in the Amazon Basin are reservoirs from the overflow of the rivers and rise and fall with these. The coastal section has lagoons and inland channels formed by uplifted beaches; they are usually shallow and some, as in Bahia, are associated with swamps; but on the Alagôas coast the lakes are long, narrow, and deep. The largest coastal lakes are the two in Rio Grande do Sul already mentioned, separated by broad sand beaches from the ocean, with which they communicate by a channel 42 miles long at the south end of the Lagôa dos Patos. This lake is 140 miles long and 30 wide; the Mirím is 78 miles long and at the most 25 wide. Both are navigable, though shallow and with many sand bars.