Collins' Illustrated Guide to London and Neighbourhood / Being a Concise Description of the Chief Places of Interest in the Metropolis, and the Best Modes of Obtaining Access to Them: with Information Relating to Railways, Omnibuses, Steamers, &c.

by Anonymous

UP THE RIVER.

Chelsea.—Chelsea, once a village, is now a part of the metropolis, Pimlico and Belgravia having supplied the intervening link. During the last century a pleasant ramble across the fields was much in favour to the Chelsea bunhouse; but no one thinks of Chelsea now, except as part of London. Sloane Square and Street, and Hans Place, were named after Sir Hans Sloane, who lived in that neighbourhood. The chief place of interest at Chelsea is the Hospital for retired invalid soldiers, an institution similar to the asylum for old seamen at Greenwich. The hospital, which is situated on a flat stretch of ground bordering the Thames, and was planned by Sir Christopher Wren, consists chiefly of one large edifice of red brick, several stories in height, forming a centre and two wings, or three sides of a square, with the open side towards the bank of the Thames. On the north, in which is the main entrance, the style of architecture is simple, being ornamented with only a plain portico. The inner part of the centre building is more decorated, there being here a piazza of good proportions, forming a sheltered walk for the veteran inmates. In the centre of the open square stands a statue, by Grinling Gibbons, of Charles II., in whose time the hospital took its rise. The only parts of the structure considered worthy to be shewn to strangers are the chapel and old dining-hall, both in the central building. The chapel is neat and plain in appearance; the rows of benches being furnished with prayer-books and hassocks, and the floor being paved with chequered marble. Above the communion-table is a painting of the Ascension, by Sebastian Ricci. The dining-hall is equally spacious, but is now disused as a refectory. In the hall and chapel are about 100 flags, taken by British troops in various battles. The usual number of in-pensioners is about 500, and of out-pensioners not fewer than 60,000 to 70,000, who reside in all parts of the United Kingdom. The former are provided with all necessaries, while the latter have each pensions varying according to their grade. The inmates wear an antique garb of red cloth, in which they may be seen loitering about the neighbourhood.

Near Sloane Square is situated a large building forming the Royal Military Asylum, familiarly called the Duke of York’s School, for the support and education of about 500 poor children, whose fathers were non-commissioned officers and privates in the army. Each regiment of the British army contributes annually one day’s pay, to aid in supporting the institution. Between Sloane Square and Chelsea Bridge is the fine new Barracks for the Foot Guards: the only handsome barrack structure in the metropolis.

Chelsea to Chiswick.—Battersea Park, elsewhere described, is just opposite Chelsea. Beyond the park are Battersea and Wandsworth, places containing very few objects of interest; and backed by Clapham and Wimbledon, where many London merchants and tradesmen have their private residences. Beyond Wandsworth lie Putney, Barnes, and Mortlake, where the river makes a great bend towards Kew. Between Putney and Kew many Regattas, or boat-races, take place during the summer; especially the famous annual contest, from Putney to Mortlake, between the universities of Oxford and Cambridge: these are among the most pleasant of the up-river scenes. Omnibuses, steamboats, and the South-Western Railway, give abundant accommodation to the places here named. On the Middlesex side of the river, just beyond Chelsea, are Cremorne Gardens. Next, we get into a region of Market-Gardens, from which London is supplied with vast quantities of fruit and vegetables. Walham Green, Parson’s Green, and Fulham, lie in the immediate vicinity of these gardens. Strangers would find an hour or two pleasantly spent hereabouts. The bishops of London have their palace at Fulham, a picturesque old structure. After passing Hammersmith, where there is a pretty suspension bridge, we come to Chiswick, noted for its market-gardens; here is the house in which Hogarth died; and in the churchyard is his tomb, with an inscription by David Garrick. The Duke of Sutherland has a fine mansion at Chiswick; and near at hand are the old gardens of the Horticultural Society.

Kew Gardens.—Kew is one of the pleasantest villages near London. When we have crossed the Thames from Brentford, by the bridge, we come upon the green, bounded on three sides by countryfied-looking houses, and on the fourth by the splendid gardens. The place is very easily reached—by omnibuses from the city to the Middlesex end of the bridge; by steamers every half-hour during summer; and by trains from the Waterloo and the North London Stations. It may be well to remember, however, that the so-called Kew Station is not actually at Kew. There is another, however, near the Gardens. By far the most interesting object at Kew is the famous Botanic Gardens. This is a very beautiful establishment, maintained at the public expense. It contains a rare collection of plants, obtained from all parts of the world, arranged and labelled in admirable order by Dr. Dalton Hooker. The flower-beds, hot-houses, and conservatories, are very numerous. The great palm house, with its exotics, reaching to a height of 60 feet, and constructed at a cost of £30,000, forms a grand object. The new temperate-house was constructed from the designs of Mr. Burton; 212 feet long, 137 wide, and 60 high, with two wings 112 feet by 62. Extensive new works have been added—including a lake having a communication with the Thames by a tunnel under the river-terrace, and a winter-garden, or enclosed conservatory, more than twice as large as the palm-house. Three detached buildings have been fitted up as a Museum of Economic Botany. The Pleasure Grounds form a kind of Park contiguous to the Botanic Gardens; the gardens are 75 acres in extent, and the grounds 240 acres. This beautiful place is freely open to the public in the afternoon, on Sundays as well as week-days, after one o’clock.

Richmond.—Richmond is a village situated on the south bank of the Thames, at about 9 miles by land from Hyde Park Corner, and 16 miles by following the windings of the river. The most pleasant mode of conveyance to it used to be by one of the small steamboats from Hungerford Pier; for then an opportunity was afforded of seeing numerous beautiful and interesting spots on both banks of the river. The river is now, however, so shallow, that steamers can seldom reach this spot; and the trip is usually made by railway—from the Waterloo and Vauxhall Stations, and from all stations on the Blackwall, North London, and North and South Western lines. Omnibuses also run very frequently from the City and West End. Richmond stands on a slope overhanging the river. Opposite the village is a stone bridge crossing the Thames. South from the village, a pretty steep bank ascends to the green and bushy eminence called Richmond Hill; and from the terrace on its summit a view is obtained of the beautifully wooded country up the river, stretching away to Windsor. Among numerous villas, ornamental grounds, and other attractive objects, may be seen Twickenham, situated in the immediate vicinity, on the left bank of the Thames. In the house for which the present was erected as a substitute, lived Pope the poet, and his body is entombed in the church.

Hampton Court.—Hampton is about 13 miles from London by railway, and 24 by water. Trains run there very frequently, and at low fares, from Waterloo Station. The village is unimportant, but rendered pleasant by its large and open green. The chief object of attraction is Hampton Court Palace, situated within an enclosed garden near the north bank of the Thames. The palace was originally built by Cardinal Wolsey, and a portion of the structure which he reared is still extant in the northern quadrangle. Here was the scene of the humiliation and forfeiture of that favourite of Henry VIII., who at this place often held his court, and made it the scene of his Christmas festivities; there Edward VI. was born; here were held the masques, mummeries, and tournaments of Philip and Mary, and Elizabeth; here James I. held his court and famous meeting of controversialists; here Charles I. was immured as a state prisoner, and took leave of his children; here was celebrated the marriage of Cromwell’s daughter and Lord Falconberg; here Charles II. sojourned occasionally with his dissolute courtiers; here lived William and Mary after the revolution of 1688; and here, till the reign of George II., royal courts were sometimes held. The palace, in external appearance, is a lofty and magnificent structure of red brick, with stone cornices and dressings. The older part, including the famous Great Hall, the scene of the court masques and revels, is of the time of Henry VIII.; the eastern part, including the public rooms and the long garden front, was built by Wren for William III. Altogether, the edifice consists of three quadrangles. Entering by the grand staircase, which is decorated with paintings by Antonio Verrio, the visitor is conducted through a suite of lofty and large apartments, furnished in an old-fashioned style. The guard-room, which is first in order, contains, besides a series of English admirals by Kneller and Dahl, a variety of ancient warlike instruments. In the next apartment are portraits of various beauties of Charles II.’s court, painted by Sir Peter Lely, who has here depicted several lovely countenances, though a sensual character is common to them all. In the third room, or audience-chamber, is seen what is generally regarded as the finest painting in the palace—a portrait of Charles I. on horseback, by Vandyck. The third room has also some good pictures; among others, a painting of the family of Louis Cornaro, a person celebrated for his extraordinary temperance. The picture, which is from an original by Titian, shews Cornaro and three generations of descendants, who appear in the act of adoration at a shrine. There are likewise portraits of Titian and his uncle, painted by Titian himself, and a spirited battle-piece by Giulio Romano. The fourth apartment, or Queen’s drawing-room, is enriched with an exceedingly fine painting of Charles I., a whole length, by Vandyck, esteemed the best likeness we have of that monarch. There is a well known and beautiful print from it by Sir Robert Strange, the prince of English line-engravers. In the next room, or state bedchamber, the visitor will see a portrait of Ann Hyde, daughter of Hyde, Earl of Clarendon, and mother of the successive queens, Mary and Anne. The Queen’s dressing-room and writing-closet, and Queen Mary’s state bedchamber, which follow, contain many fine pictures, by Holbein, Sir Peter Lely, Sebastian del Piombo, Leonardo da Vinci, Albert Durer, and others. A series known as the Beauties of the Court of William and Mary comprises portraits (by Kneller) more staid than those of the court of Charles II., and, it must be admitted, more tame and dull. After having traversed these stately and silent halls, one of which contains a valuable collection of historical portraits, the visitor is led out through the gallery lately containing the famous Cartoons of Raphael—which were transferred in 1865 to the South Kensington Museum. Another room contains a fine series of Cartoons by Andrea Mantegna. The whole of the pictures at Hampton Court are little less than 1000 in number.

The palace garden has a Vinery, where there is a grape vine ninety years old, which has sometimes yielded 3000 bunches of grapes in one year. The garden also possesses a Maze, a source of great delight to holiday juveniles. On the opposite side of the Hampton Wick Road from the palace gardens, is Bushy Park, a royal domain, embellished with an avenue of horse-chestnut trees, which present a splendid sight when in full bloom. The palace grounds are also exceedingly beautiful. Bushy Park is open for omnibuses and other vehicles, as well as for pedestrians. The palace is open free every day except Friday, from 10 till 4 or 6, according to the season; and the grounds or gardens till dusk. This is one of the very few public buildings in or near the metropolis open on Sundays.

Windsor.—Passing over the country between Hampton and Windsor, which does not comprise many spots interesting to strangers, we come to the famous royal domain. Windsor is situated in the county of Berks, at the distance of 22 miles west from London by the road through Brentford; but it may now be reached in an hour or less by the Great Western Railway from Paddington, or the South-Western from Waterloo Bridge. Windsor occupies a rising-ground on the south bank of the Thames, and is interesting for its ancient and extensive castle, the grandest royal residence in this country. The gates of the castle are close upon the main street of the town, and lead to enclosures containing a number of quadrangles, towers, gates, mansions, barracks, and other structures.

Outside the castle, facing the north, is the famed terrace, from which a view is obtained over a most beautiful expanse of country. On another side are the new royal stables, the finest in England, having, with the Riding House, cost £70,000. In the gardens immediately adjoining the Queen’s apartments, the royal family, before the death of the Prince Consort, were wont occasionally to promenade, at an hour when the public might see them. The Home Park, bounding the palace on two sides, is not open to the public; but the Great Park is freely open, to persons on foot, on horseback, or in vehicles. The Long Walk through this park, extending 3 miles, is one of the finest things of the kind in England.

Eton College, with its school-rooms for 900 boys, chapel, quadrangles, and playing-fields, lies beautifully situated opposite Windsor Castle.

A ramble from the Slough Station, near Eton, would take a visitor to the scenes rendered memorable by Gray’s Elegy.