MENAI.
This Strait, which separates Anglesea from the main land, although bearing only the appearance of a river, is an arm of the sea, and most dangerous in its navigation at particular periods of the tide, and in boisterous weather: during the flood, from the rush of water at each extremity, it has a double current, the clash of which, termed Pwll Ceris, it is highly rash and dangerous to encounter. In the space of fifteen miles, there are six established ferries: the first of which to the south is Abermenai, the next near Caernarvon, and three miles north from the first is Tal y foel; four miles further, Moel y don; three miles beyond which is the principal one, called Porthaethwy, but more generally known as Bangor Ferry; it is the narrowest part of the Strait, and is only about half a mile wide; this is the one over which the mails and passengers pass on their route to and from Holyhead, and near which is the bridge, of which a particular description and plan is for the first time given; a mile further north is the fifth, Garth Ferry; and the sixth, and widest ferry at high water, is between the village of Aber and Beaumaris. Yet notwithstanding these ferries, the principal part of the horned cattle that pass from Anglesea are compelled by their drivers to swim over the passage at Bangor Ferry, to the terror and injury of the animals, and the disgust and horror of the bystanders.
There appears but little doubt of Anglesea having been once connected with the main land, as evident traces of an isthmus are discernible near Porthaeth-hwy; where a dangerous line of rocks nearly cross the channel, and cause such eddies at the first flowing of the tide, that the contending currents of the Menai seem here to struggle for superiority. This isthmus once destroyed, and a channel formed, it has been the work of ages, by the force of spring tides and storms, gradually to deepen and enlarge the opening; as it appears by history, that both Roman and British cavalry, at low water, during neap tides, forded or swam over the Strait, and covered the landing of the infantry from flat-bottomed boats.
The violent rush of water, and consequent inconvenience, delay, and danger, when the wind and tide are unfavourable to the passage over Bangor Ferry, in the present state of constant and rapid communication with Ireland, gave rise to the idea of forming a bridge over the Menai. Various estimates and plans were submitted to the public consideration by our most celebrated engineers, and men of science; when, after numerous delays, Mr. Telford’s design for one on the suspension principle was adopted, and money granted by parliament for carrying it into effect. The first stone of this magnificent structure was laid on the 10th of August, 1819, without any ceremony, by the resident engineer, Mr. Provis, and the contractors for the masonry.
“When on entering the Straits,” [189] says a recent author, “the bridge is first seen, suspended as it were in mid air, and confining the view of the fertile and richly-wooded shores, it seems more like a light ornament than a massy bridge, and shows little of the strength and solidity which it really possesses. But as we approached it nearer, whilst it still retained its light and elegant appearance, the stupendous size and immensity of the work struck us with awe; and when we saw that a brig, with every stick standing, had just passed under it,—that a coach going over appeared not larger than a child’s toy, and that foot-passengers upon it looked like pigmies, the vastness of its proportions was by contrast fully apparent.” The whole surface of the bridge is in length 1,000 feet, of which the part immediately dependent upon the chains is 590 feet, the remaining distance being supported by seven arches, four on one side and three on the other, which fill up the distance from the main piers to the shore. These main piers rise above the level of the road 50 feet, and through them, two archways, each 12 feet wide, admit a passage. Over the top of these piers, four rows of chains, the extremities of which are firmly secured in the rocks at each end of the bridge, are thrown; two of them nearly in the centre, about four feet apart, and one at each side. The floor of the road is formed of logs of wood, well covered with pitch, and then strewn over with granite broken very small, forming a solid body by its adhesion to the pitch impervious to the wet. A light lattice work of wrought iron to the height of about six feet, prevents the possibility of accidents by falling over, and allows a clear view of the scenery on both sides, which can be seen to great advantage from this height. Having expressed our admiration of the skill evident in the construction, at once so simple and so useful, and having satisfied our curiosity on the top, we descended by a precipitous path to the level of the water, and gazed upwards with wonder, at the immense flat surface above us, and its connecting gigantic arches. The road is 100 feet above high water, and the arches spring at the height of 60 feet from abutments of solid masonry, with a span of 52 feet. These abutments taper gradually from their base to where the arch commences, and immense masses as they are, show no appearance of heaviness; indeed, taking the whole of the Menai Bridge together, a more perfect union of beauty with utility cannot be conceived. It has been erected to bear a weight upon the chains of 2,000 tons; the whole weight at present imposed is only 500, leaving an available strength of 1,500 tons; so that there is an easy remedy for a complaint which has been made of its too great vibration in a gale of wind, by laying additional weight upon it. The granite of which the piers and arches are built, is a species of marble, admitting a very high polish; of this the peasantry in the neighbourhood avail themselves, and every one has some specimen of polished marble ready to offer the tourist. There is so much magnificence, beauty, and elegance, in this grand work of art, that it harmonizes and accords perfectly with the natural scenery around, and though itself an object of admiration, still in connection it heightens the effect of the general view.
MONA, OR ANGLESEA, [191]
which forms one of the six counties of North Wales, was to that principality what the island of Sicily was to Italy, its granary, and chief dependence for subsistence; it was likewise the favourite spot, and the last asylum of the Druids in Britain; it was to their venerable and sacred groves, in this their last sanctuary, that they fled from Roman tyranny; and it was here, around their altars, defenceless and undefended, save by firebrands snatched from beneath the sacrifice, that these venerable bigots fell, on the score of their religion, under the murderous swords of Pagans, who, their means of attaining knowledge being considered, were more ignorant than themselves. Neither have we a right, on the bare testimony of these their bloody tyrannical persecutors, to believe them to have been guilty of the horrid rites and human sacrifices of which they are accused. In what portion of history do we find the state, the hero, or the conqueror, wanting a good and sufficient reason to cover the plea for conquest or aggression; and, above all, do we ever find the Romans, throughout their history, wanting in such plea to cover the basest of their actions? It was the religious stimulus by which the Druids urged the Britons, even the females, to deeds of heroic madness, to which the Romans owed the dear purchase in life and blood of their British conquest; and which, whilst that stimulus existed, they were but too well aware, must ever be insecure: no wonder then, that to cover the inhumanity of a cold-blooded warfare of extermination against a priesthood, that controlled and guided the energies of a daring people, they should represent them in their bloody orgies as immolating human victims: nay, most probably, even the accusation was founded in truth, but grossly and wilfully misrepresented; for the ministers of religion being, most probably, the administrators of justice, and sole keepers of traditionary laws, the sacrifice of guilty culprits to such laws, to make a deeper impression on the minds of hardy but superstitious barbarians, was made a religious act. When we reflect on the late horrible sacrifices that have been made in this country in the nineteenth century, to its offended laws, and on those disgusting, though less dreadful exhibitions, which are made so frequently, in a leading street of the metropolis of Britain, that they, from their business-like, unceremonious mode of execution, no longer deter from similar offences: and when we see the culprits come forth attended by ministers of religion, who may appear to uninformed by-standers to superintend the ceremony, as to the lot of one of them it falls to give the fatal signal; we should reflect how such a spectacle may be misrepresented by an Indian, a Chinese, or an Esquimaux, and then judge with due candour of the religious rites and actions of the Druids.
Anglesea can no longer, with propriety, as it did of old, bear the title of Ynys Dowyll, or the Shady Island; for those sacred groves, those venerable oaks, which fell not under the harsh mandates of its Roman, Saxon, or English invaders, have yielded to the hand of time, or the avarice of man; and the late appearance of the island was unsheltered and exposed, almost with the exception of the respected hallowed shades of Plas-Newydd and Baron Hill; but numerous and thriving plantations are now springing up, doing away with that sterile appearance; and the better and more speedily to accomplish this desirable end, public nursery grounds have been established in the centre of the island, to afford facilities for, and to encourage planting. It has had the desired effect; and by an improvement in smelting the ore, and extracting the sulphur from it, vegetation is no longer injured, even where there is any soil on the Parys Mountain.
It was formerly divided into seven districts, or comots, but at present its divisions are only six. It contains about two hundred thousand acres of land; is in length, from north-west to south-east, about twenty miles; in breadth, from north-east to south-west, about sixteen miles; and in circumference, about seventy-six miles: has seventy-four parishes, and four market towns, and is in the diocese of Bangor. The number of houses are estimated at 7183; the inhabitants at 37,045. It sends two members to parliament; one for the county, and one for Beaumaris.
From its too great deficiency of wood, and live fences, the sterility of the Parys Mountain and its vicinity, and the rocky appearance of the soil, there was formerly no semblance of that exuberant fertility that would allow this small partially cultivated island to export to the extent it does, both in live stock and grain, viz. about 15,000 head of black cattle, about 5000 hogs, great numbers of sheep, and nearly 4000 quarters of corn, besides numerous other articles of produce and manufacture. Its climate is more mild than that of Wales generally, but it is at the same time subject to fogs and damp; the advantage and disadvantage both attributable to the sea breezes. It is well watered by numerous rivulets, and has abundance of harbours: among the first is that well known and highly useful one of Holyhead, which has of late been greatly improved: that of Beaumaris is likewise good, and capable of carrying on considerable trade; besides these, there are the minor ones of Red Wharf Bay, Dulas Bay, Amlwch, from which the copper ore, &c. obtained from Parys Mountain is shipped, and which might be greatly improved, Cemlyn, Aberfraw, &c.: most, or all of them, might, at a small expense, be rendered still more safe and useful. Besides its exports in corn and cattle, this small island carries on great trade in copper, ochre, sulphur, mill-stones, lead, &c. &c. It likewise produces various specimens of marble, (well known in London as Mona marbles) and amongst others, the asbestos: it yields potters clay and fullers earth, as well as coals, which are now worked in the neighbourhood of Llangafni. Neither is the sea less bountiful than the land; affording a bill of fare that would not disgrace the table of a London alderman.
On account of the great thoroughfare which this island has become since the Union, from the exertions made by government to afford safety and facility in the forwarding the principal Irish mails and despatches, the roads are kept in excellent order.
BEAUMARIS,
the largest and best built town in Anglesea, is pleasantly situated on the western shore of the bay of that name, and commands a fine view of the sea and the Caernarvonshire mountains. Its original name was Porth Wygyr. Its harbour is well sheltered, and affords ample protection for coasters, and ships of considerable burthen, which, during northerly winds, are driven there in great numbers, to avoid the dangers of a lee shore. As no manufactures of consequence are carried on in its neighbourhood, it is rather calculated for great retirement, than for active bustle; but being the county town, it is now and then enlivened by the gaieties attendant upon assizes, elections, and other public meetings.
The castle, built by Edward I. in 1295, stands in the estate of Lord Bulkeley, close to the town, and covers a considerable space of ground; but from its low situation it was always inferior in point of strength to the castles of Conway and Caernarvon.
Close above the town is Baron Hill, the seat of Lord Viscount Warren Bulkeley, delightfully situated on the declivity of a richly wooded bank, and possessing a complete command of every object which can add to the charms of picturesque scenery. The park extends to, and nearly surrounds, the west and north sides of the town; whilst the rising ground, upon which the mansion stands, shelters the town from the rude blasts that would otherwise assail it; thus giving it that protection from the raging of the elements which the noble owner ever affords to its inhabitants, when sorrow and adversities assail their domestic peace. To enumerate all the acts of Lord Bulkeley’s munificence and kindness would be impossible, but a few of them may be seen in the neighbourhood of Beaumaris.
The beautiful road of four miles and a half, along the shore of the Menai to Bangor Ferry, was made at the expense of Lord and Lady Bulkeley in 1804: it cost about £3000, and, when completed, was presented to the public and has since been maintained at his lordship’s expense. A road possessed of greater picturesque beauty is not to be found in Britain.
The church is kept in repair by his lordship, to which he has presented an excellent organ, a set of elegant communion plate, a clock, and a peal of six fine toned bells; together, costing about £1200. He has also given a good house to the rector for the time being. The national school, as well as the minister’s house, was built by public subscription, on land given by Lord Bulkeley; and the master’s and mistress’s salaries have since been paid by him and his lady.
Many more acts of their liberality might be enumerated, but these are sufficient to prove them zealous protecting friends, and kind neighbours. Their numerous deeds of private charity ought not to be blazoned to the world, but they will live long in the grateful remembrance of those around them.
Beaumaris, situated 249 miles from London, had, in 1811, 249 houses, and 1,810 inhabitants; and in 1821 a population of 2,205. It is governed by a mayor, recorder, two bailiffs, twenty-four capital burgesses, and several inferior officers. It formerly possessed an extensive trade; but has declined since the rise of Liverpool.
From Beaumaris we proceeded, by Dulas and Red Wharf Bay, to Amlwch; the distance is about sixteen miles, through a pleasant country, in parts greatly resembling England. About a mile from Red Wharf Bay you pass the village of Pentraeth, The End of the Sands. The situation is pleasant; and Mr. Grose was so taken with the picturesque beauty of its small church, as to give a view of it in his Antiquities.
Near this, in a field at Plâs Gwynn, the seat of the Panton family, are two stones, placed, as tradition says, to mark the bounds of an astonishing leap; which obtained for the active performer of it the wife of his choice; but it appears, that as he leaped into her affections with difficulty, he ran away from them with ease; for going to a distant part of the country, where he had occasion to reside several years, he found, on his return, that his wife had, on that very morning, been married to another person. Einson, on hearing this, took his harp, and, sitting down at the door, explained in Welsh metre who he was, and where he had been resident. His wife narrowly scrutinized his person, unwilling to give up her new spouse, when he exclaimed:
Look not, Angharad, on my silver hair,
Which once shone bright of golden lively hue:
Man does not last like gold:—he that was fair
Will soon decay, though gold continue new.If I have lost Angharad, lovely fair!
The gift of brave Ednyfed, and my spouse,
All I’ve not lost, (all must from hence repair)
Nor bed, nor harp, nor yet my ancient house.I once have leap’d to show my active power,
A leap which none could equal or exceed,
The leap in Aber Nowydd, which thou, fair flower!
Didst once so much admire, thyself the meed.Full fifty feet, as still the truth is known,
And many witnesses can still attest;
How there the prize I won, thyself must own:
This action stamp’d my worth within thy breast.Bingley’s North Wales.
At Llanfair, which is about a mile distant from this road, was born the celebrated scholar and poet, Goronwy Owen, who, notwithstanding his acknowledged and admired abilities, was, after a series of hardships and struggles, obliged to expatriate himself to the wilds of Virginia, where he was appointed pastor of the Church. He was well versed in the Latin, Greek, and oriental languages, was a skilful antiquary, and an excellent poet. His Latin odes are greatly admired; but his Welsh poems rank him among the most distinguished bards of his country.
About five miles west of Beaumaris is Peny-mynydd, the birth-place of Owen Tudor, a private gentleman, who, having married Catherine of France, the Dowager of our Henry V., in 1428, became the ancestor of a line of monarchs. They had three sons and one daughter. The daughter died in her infancy: Edmund was created Earl of Richmond, and marrying a daughter of the Duke of Somerset, had Henry, afterwards Henry VII. Jasper was created Earl of Pembroke; and Owen became a monk. By means of his marriage, therefore, Owen Tudor not only became father to a line of kings; but in his son, as Gray says, Wales came to be governed again by their own princes.
The Tudor family became extinct in Richmond Tudor, who died in 1657, and the estate belongs to Lord Bulkeley. In the Church is one of their monuments, removed from Lanvaes Abbey at its dissolution.
LLANELIAN
is about two miles east of Amlwch, near the coast: Mr. Bingley’s account of which, and the superstitious ceremonies still attaching to it, is both curious and entertaining:
“The Church is by no means an inelegant structure; and adjoining to it is a small chapel of very ancient foundation, that measures in its interior twelve feet by fifteen, called Myfyr, the confessional. A curious closet of wood, of an hexagonal form, called St. Elian’s closet, is yet left in the east wall; and is supposed to have served both the office of communion table, and as a chest to contain the vestments and other utensils belonging to the chapel. There is a hole in the wall of the chapel, through which the priests are supposed to have received confessions: the people believe this hole to have been used in returning oracular answers to persons who made enquiries of the saint respecting future events. Near the door is placed Cyff Elian, Elian’s chest, or poor-box. People out of health, even to this day, send their offering to the saint, which they put through a hole into the box. A silver groat, though not a very common coin, is said to be a present peculiarly acceptable, and has been known to procure his intercession, when all other kinds of coin have failed! The sum thus deposited, which in the course of a year frequently amounts to several pounds, the church-wardens annually divide among the poor of the parish.
“The wakes of Llanelian were formerly held on the three first Friday evenings in August; but they are now confined to only one of those days. Young persons from all parts of the adjacent country, and even from distant counties, assemble here; most of whom have along with them some offering for the saint, to ensure their future prosperity, palliate their offences, and secure blessings on their families, their cattle, and corn.
“The misguided devotees assemble about the chapel, and having deposited their offerings, many of them proceed to search into their future destiny in a very singular manner, by means of the wooden closet. Persons of both sexes, of all ages and sizes, enter the small door-way, and if they can succeed in turning themselves round within the narrow limits of the place, (which measures only betwixt three and four feet in height, about four feet across the back, and eighteen inches in width) they believe that they shall be fortunate till at least the ensuing wake; but if they do not succeed in this difficult undertaking, they esteem it an omen of ill-fortune, or of their death within the year. I have been told, that it is curious enough to see a stout lusty fellow, weighing perhaps sixteen or eighteen stone, striving to creep into these narrow confines, with as much confidence of success as a stripling a yard high; and when he fails in the attempt, to see him fuming and fretting, because his body, which contains in solid bulk more than the place could hold, were it crammed into all corners, cannot be got in. But when we consider, that superstition and enthusiasm have generally little to do with reason, we must not wonder at this addition to the heap of incongruities that all ages have afforded us.
“Llanelian was formerly a sanctuary, or place of refuge for criminals. In digging a grave in the churchyard, about sixteen years ago, a deep trench was discovered, which extended about twenty yards in a transverse direction across. It was found to contain a great quantity of human bones; and is supposed to have been the place of interment of a number of sailors, who perished in a storm that drove them upon this coast.”