Transcribed from the 1834 Whittaker & Co. edition by David Price.
THE
CAMBRIAN TOURIST,
OR,
POST-CHAISE COMPANION
THROUGH
WALES;
CONTAINING CURSORY SKETCHES OF THE
WELSH TERRITORIES,
AND
A DESCRIPTION OF THE MANNERS, CUSTOMS, AND GAMES
OF THE NATIVES.
EIGHTH EDITION.
THE WHOLE CORRECTED, AND CONSIDERABLY ENLARGED.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR WHITTAKER & CO.
AVE MARIA LANE.
1834.
ACCOUNT OF THE WELSH LANGUAGE.
The force of the Letters—List of Primitive Words—Character of the Language and of the Poetry.
It is supposed that there were anciently, in the Welsh or British Language, [0] no less than thirty-six letters, sixteen of which were radicals, that expressed the primary sounds; and the rest, modulations or dependents on them. For each of these, it is probable that there was formerly a simple appropriate character; but, since the invention of printing, and the introduction of Roman letters, it has been necessary, for want of a sufficient variety of cast for the purpose, to adopt two, and in one instance even three, of those letters, to express one sound or character, by which much of the simplicity and beauty of the proper alphabet has been lost.
The present printed books contain only twenty-seven characters: A, B, C, Ch, D, Dd, E, F, Ff, G, Ng, H, I, L, Ll, M, N, O, P, Ph, R, S, T, Th, U, W, and Y; having neither J, K, X, nor Z. C answers the purpose of K, when joined with W or Q; and when placed with S, of X. It is said that Z is used in the Armorican language, which is a dialect of this; but the Welsh disown it.
No letter has any variation of sound, except the accented vowels, â, ê, î, ô, û, ŵ, ŷ, which are lengthened, or otherwise, according to the power of the accent, and all are pronounced, as there are no mutes.
A has the same sound as the English open a in the word bard.
C is always hard as k.
Ch, which is accounted but as one consonant, is a guttural, as Chi in Greek, or ch, Cheth, in Hebrew.
Dd is an aspirated d, and has the sound of th in the words this, that. Dda, good, is pronounced Tha.
F has the sound of an English v.
I is sounded as in the Italian, or like our ee in been; thus cîl, a retreat, is pronounced keel.
Ll is an aspirated l, and has much the sound of thl. Llangollen is pronounced Thlangothlen.
R, as in the Greek language, is always aspirated at the beginning of a word.
U sounds like the i in limb, him, &c.
W is a vowel, and has the power of oo in soon.
Y is in some words pronounced like i in third; in others like o in honey: and again, in others as the u in mud, must, &c.
V is sometimes used instead of f. B and P, C and G, and U and Y, are used promiscuously, as were formerly V and M.
The following is a list of primitive words, which, as they very commonly occur in the names of places, &c. the tourist may find them of use.
Aber, a confluence; the fall of one river into another or into the sea, as Aberdovey, the conflux of the Dovey.
Avon, what flows; and from thence a stream or river.
Allt, a cliff; the steep of a hill.
Ar, upon; bordering or abutting upon.
Bach, and Bychan, little: these are of the masculine gender, and Vychan and Vechan are feminine.
Bôd, a dwelling, residence, or station.
Bryn, a hill.
Bwlch, a gap or pass between rocks.
Cader, a keep, fortress, or strong hold.
Caer, a fort, or fortified place, generally constructed with stones and mortar.
Castell, a castle.
Coed, a wood.
Carnedd, a heap of stones.
Cefen, a ridge; or high ground.
Clawdd, a ditch, dike, or trench; and sometimes a wall or fence.
Clogwyn, a precipice.
Craig, a rock: from this the English word Crag is derived.
Cwm, a great hollow or glen; sometimes a valley.
Dinas, a fort, or fortified place, constructed in general with a rampart of loose stones and earth without any cement.
Dôl, a meadow or dale in the bend of a river.
Drws, a door, pass, or opening.
Dû, black.
Dyffryn, a wide cultivated valley.
Ffynnon, a spring, well, or source.
Garth, a mountain that bends round, or that incloses.
Glan, a bank or shore.
Glyn, a deep vale, through which a river runs:—from hence was derived our word Glen.
Gwern, a watery meadow.
Gwydd, a wood; woody or wild.
Gwyn, white.
Goch, or Coch, red.
Llan, a smooth plot; a place of meeting; the church, place, or village; and figuratively the church.
Llech, a flat stone, or crag; a smooth cliff.
Llwyn, a grove or copse.
Llyn, a pool, pond, or mere.
Maen, a stone.
Maes, an open field.
Mawr, great:—Vach, little.
Moel, fair; bald; a smooth mountain.
Mynydd, a mountain.
Pant, a narrow hollow, or ravine.
Pen, a head, top, or end.
Plâs, a hall, or mansion.
Pont, a bridge.
Porth, a port.
Rhiw, an ascent.
Rhôs, a moist plain, or meadow.
Rhyd, a ford.
Sarn, a causeway.
Tal, the front, head, or end.
Traeth, a sand on the sea-shore.
Tref, a township.
Ty, a house.
Ynys, an island.
The Welsh language is possessed of numerous beauties. Its copiousness is very great; and it has no rival in the variety of its synonymous forms of expression, principally arising from the rich combinations of its verbs; for every simple verb has about twenty modifications, by means of qualifying prefixes; and in every form it may be conjugated, either by inflexions, like the Latin, or by the auxiliaries, as in English. It rivals the Greek, in its aptitude to form the most beautiful derivatives, as well as in the elegance, facility, and expressiveness of an infinite variety of compounds. The author of letters from Snowdon has justly remarked, that it has the softness and harmony of the Italian, with the majesty and expression of the Greek. Of these I will give two singular and striking instances, one of which is an Englyn, or epigram on the silk-worm; composed entirely of vowels.
O’i wiw y ŵi weu ê â, a’i weuau
O’i ŵyau y weua;
E’ weua ei ŵe aia’,
A’i weuau yw ieuau iâ.“I perish by my art; dig mine own grave:
I spin my thread of life; my death I weave.”
The other a distich on thunder, the grandeur of which is scarcely to be surpassed in any language.
Tân a dŵr yn ymwriaw,
Yw’r taranau dreigiau draw.“The roaring thunder, dreadful in its ire,
Its water warring with aërial fire.”
The metre of the Welsh poetry is very artificial and alliterative, possessing such peculiar ingenuity in the selection and arrangement of words, as to produce a rhythmical concatenation of sounds in every verse. The old British language abounded with consonants, and was formed of monosyllables, which are incompatible with quantity; and the bards could reduce it to concord by no other means than by placing at such intervals its harsher consonants, so intermixing them with vowels, and so adapting, repeating, and dividing the several sounds, as to produce an agreeable effect from their structure. Hence the laws of poetical composition in this language are so strict and rigorous, that were it not for a particular aptitude that it has for that kind of alliterative melody, which is as essential as harmony in music, and which constitutes the great beauty of its poetry, the genius of the bard must have been greatly cramped. To the ears of the natives, the Welsh metre is extremely pleasing, and does not subject the bard to more restraint than the different sorts of feet occasioned to the Greek and Roman poets. From the reign of Llywelyn to that of Elizabeth, the laws of alliteration were prescribed, and observed with such scrupulous exactness, that a line not perfectly alliterative was condemned as much by the Welsh grammarians, as a false quantity was by the Greeks and Romans.
THE
CAMBRIAN TOURIST.
These are the haunts of Meditation, these
The scenes where ancient bards th’ inspiring breath
Ecstatic felt.Thomson.
As a centrical situation from which to undertake a Tour to either North or South Wales, and to which conveyances are now established from all parts of England and Scotland, I fixed on Oxford. And should the Tourist’s undertaking be commenced early in the season, and his time to enjoy it be ample, he will have the opportunity of viewing this seat of learning and nursery of the arts to advantage; the elegant piles of building which Oxford exhibits, the stores of learned wealth which it possesses, and the beautiful paintings which adorn its halls and colleges, are so cheaply and so fully described in the Oxford Guides, that to attempt to do it in this work would be superfluous, if not ridiculous: still I may be excused for pointing out to those whose period of stay may be limited, the objects more particularly worthy their attention. The three churches generally viewed are St. Mary’s, All Saints, and St. Peter’s in the East. St. Mary’s is the church used by the University on Sundays and holidays: All Saints is a beautiful modern structure, in the High-street: St. Peter’s in the East is very ancient; it was formerly the University Church, and is now, during Lent, attended by the members of it for afternoon service.
The Bodleian or University Library, one of the largest in Europe, as well as the Picture Gallery, are to be seen in summer, from eight to two o’clock, and from three to five; in the winter only till three in the afternoon. The Arundel marbles are placed in a large room on the north side of the Schools. The Theatre, in which are held the Public Acts, called the Comitia and Encænia, and Lord Crewe’s annual commemoration, in June or July, of the benefactors to the University, when the prizes adjudged to particular performances are publicly recited, is a superb edifice, and was built by Sir Christopher Wren, at the expense of Archbishop Sheldon: it cost 16,000l.; its roof has been greatly admired. Near this, on the west, stands the Ashmolean Museum of natural curiosities, coins, &c. &c. and on the other side of the Theatre, the Clarendon Printing-house. Southward of the Schools stands in a fine area the celebrated Radcliffe Library, a noble building with a handsome dome.
St. Mary Magdalen College at the east end of the city, near the river Cherwell, is particularly worthy of attention, were it only to see the picture of our Saviour bearing his cross; supposed to be painted by Guido. Such is the awful solemnity of the place, and the impressive beauty of this painting, as well as of the windows, particularly of that representing the last judgment, that none can be better calculated to give a favourable bias to the mind of youth; for should religion waver in the mind, the sweet benignity of Him who died to save mankind
Shall on the heart impress such grateful love,
That Atheist ne’er can shake, or Deist move.
The Cloister of this College, which remains in its primitive state, is the most venerable of the University; the interior is ornamented with curious hieroglyphics, the key to which is very fully given in the Oxford Guide, from an ancient manuscript in the College.
Passing by numerous other Colleges and Halls, all interesting, if the time and inclination of the Tourist permit him to visit them, I shall proceed to Christ Church, which merits particular attention. This College consists of four courts: 1. The great Quadrangle; 2. Peckwater square; 3. Canterbury court; 4. The Chaplain’s court; and some other buildings. The noble west front is 382 feet in length. Over the great gate in the middle of this front is a beautiful tower, designed by Sir Christopher Wren, erected by Dr. Fell, in which is hung the great bell, called Tom, the weight of which is eight tons and a half: on the sound of this bell, the scholars of the University are to retire to their respective Colleges.
The great quadrangle is 264 by 261 feet in the clear. The Hall takes up more than half the south side: we ascend to it by a spacious and stately staircase of stone, the roof of which, supported by a single pillar, is beautiful. The staircase, lobby, and entrance into the hall, have been altered under the direction of Mr. Wyatt. The Hall is by far the most magnificent room of the kind in Oxford. There are near 300 compartments in the cornice, which are embellished with as many coats of arms, carved and blazoned in their proper colours. At the upper end of the hall the beautiful gothic window merits attention.—For the long list of portraits of eminent persons that adorn the walls, vide Oxford Guide.
Christ Church, which is the cathedral of the diocese, formerly belonged to St. Frideswide’s Monastery; for the roof of the choir, which is of beautiful stone-work, it was indebted to Cardinal Wolsey.
The east window was painted by Mr. Price, senior, of London, from a design by Sir James Thornhill. The window at the north corner of the west end is curiously painted, representing St. Peter delivered out of prison by the angel. It was executed by Oliver, in his eighteenth year. The fine ring of ten bells in the steeple, as well as Tom before described, were brought from Oseney Abbey. Choral service is performed every day at ten and five; except on Sundays and holidays, when it is at eight in the morning.
Three sides of Peckwater court are uniform, designed by Dr. Aldrich. On the fourth side is the Library, 141 feet long, built in the Corinthian order. In the lower apartments to the right and left are deposited the celebrated collection of pictures, given to the College by Gen. Guise. Amongst these is the celebrated performance of Annibal Caracci, representing his family in a butcher’s shop. St. Francis in a vision supported by angels, by ditto. A Medusa’s head, by Rubens. Two Nativities, by Titian. A Nativity, by Raphael. The flight into Egypt, by Guido Rini. Two half-lengths of women, by Dominichino. Jesus and Saint John embracing, by Raphael, &c. &c.
For a farther account of the various beauties of Oxford, I must again recommend the Tourist to refer to the Oxford Guide, as well as for information with respect to Heythrop, the seat of the Earl of Shrewsbury, 17 miles N. of Oxford; Ditchley, the seat of the Right Honourable Lord Dillon, about four miles and a half from Heythrop; and Nuneham Courtney, the seat of the late Earl Harcourt, which affords the richest treat to the admirers of fine paintings that the country affords.
But if a soldier’s ardour warms his soul, and he would fain be led to deeds of arms, pursue the road to honour, and seek the pinnacle of fame, to Blenheim’s towers let him turn his steps; and let the gentle Rosamond’s hard fate midst Woodstock’s bowers beguile him of a sigh; for love and war should still go hand in hand. Here well-earned honours have been well repaid; and great as Marlborough’s noble deeds in arms shall shine in the historic page, still shall a sovereign’s and a nation’s gratitude outvie the hero’s deeds.
Blenheim, the princely residence of his grace the Duke of Marlborough, is situated about eight miles from Oxford, to the west of Woodstock, from which town you enter the Park by a spacious portal of the Corinthian order. The noble view of the house of Blenheim, the extent of the park, the lake, valley, and richly varied scenery, are from hence highly impressive. The architecture of this noble pile of building, the interior finish and display of the arts, increase rather than diminish the first impression. The circumference of the park is about eleven miles: the gardens are tastefully displayed, owing much to nature, whose beauties are here happily blended with art.
The distance from Woodstock to Witney is eight miles and three quarters, by a turnpike road; thence to Burford, seven miles and a quarter; Northleach, nine miles; Cheltenham, twelve miles and three quarters.