BEAUMARIS,
the largest and best built town in Anglesea, is pleasantly situated on the western shore of the bay of that name, and commands a fine view of the sea and the Caernarvonshire mountains. Its original name was Porth Wygyr. Its harbour is well sheltered, and affords ample protection for coasters and ships of considerable burthen, which, during northerly winds, are driven there in great numbers, to avoid the dangers of a lee shore. As no manufactures of consequence are carried on in its neighbourhood, it is rather calculated for great retirement than for active bustle; but being the county town it is now and then enlivened by the gaieties attendant upon assizes, elections, and other public meetings.
The castle, built by Edward I. in 1295, stands in the estate of Richard Bulkeley Williams Bulkeley, Esq. close to the town, and covers a considerable space of ground; but from its low situation it was always inferior in point of strength to the castles of Conway and Caernarvon.
Close above the town is Baron Hill, the seat of R. B. Williams Bulkeley, Esq. delightfully situated on the declivity of a richly wooded bank, and possessing a complete command of every object which can add to the charms of picturesque scenery. The park extends to, and nearly surrounds, the west and north sides of the town; whilst the rising ground, upon which the mansion stands, shelters the town from the rude blasts that would otherwise assail it; thus giving it that protection from the raging elements which the last noble owner ever afforded to its inhabitants, when sorrow and adversities assailed their domestic peace. To enumerate all the acts of Lord Bulkeley’s munificence and kindness would be impossible, but a few of them may be seen in the neighbourhood of Beaumaris.
The beautiful road of four miles and a half, along the shore of the Menai to the suspension bridge, was made at the expense of Lord and Lady Bulkeley, in 1804: it cost about 3000l. and, when completed, was presented to the public, and kept in repair by the owner of Baron Hill until 1827, when an act of parliament was obtained, making it a public road, and commissioners appointed, who have erected a turnpike-gate thereon, and under whose inspection and influence it has been considerably improved in width, and the precipices reduced. A road possessed of greater picturesque beauty is not to be found in Britain.
The church was kept in repair by the late Lord Bulkeley, to which he presented a new organ, a set of elegant communion plate, a clock, and a peal of six fine toned bells; together costing about 1200l. He also gave a good house to the rector for the time being. The national school, as well as the master’s house, was built by public subscription, on land given by the late Lord Bulkeley, and the master’s and mistress’s salaries were paid by him and his lady.
Many more acts of their liberality might be enumerated, but these are sufficient to prove them zealous protecting friends and kind neighbours. Their numerous deeds of private charity ought not to be blazoned to the world, but they will live long in the grateful remembrance of those around them.
Beaumaris, situated 249 miles from London, had, in 1811, 249 houses, and 1,810 inhabitants; and in 1821 a population of 2,205. It is governed by a mayor, recorder, two bailiffs, twenty-four capital burgesses, and several inferior officers. It formerly possessed an extensive trade; but has declined since the rise of Liverpool.
From Beaumaris we proceeded, by Dulas and Red Wharf Bay, to Amlwch; the distance is about sixteen miles, through a pleasant country, in parts greatly resembling England. About a mile from Red Wharf Bay you pass the village of Pentraeth, The End of the Sands. The situation is pleasant; and Mr. Grose was so taken with the picturesque beauty of its small church, as to give a view of it in his Antiquities.
Near this, in a field at Plâs Gwynne, the seat of the Panton family, are two stones, placed, as tradition says, to mark the bounds of an astonishing leap, which obtained for the active performer of it the wife of his choice; but it appears, that as he leaped into her affections with difficulty, he ran away from them with ease; for going to a distant part of the country, where he had occasion to reside several years, he found, on his return, that his wife had, on that very morning, been married to another person. Eenion, on hearing this, took his harp, and, sitting down at the door, explained in Welsh metre who he was, and where he had been resident. His wife narrowly scrutinized his person, unwilling to give up her new spouse, when he exclaimed:
Look not, Angharad, on my silver hair,
Which once shone bright of golden lively hue:
Man does not last like gold:—he that was fair
Will soon decay, though gold continue new.If I have lost Angharad, lovely fair!
The gift of brave Ednyfed, and my spouse,
All I’ve not lost, (all must from hence repair),
Nor bed, nor harp, nor yet my ancient house.I once have leap’d to show my active power,
A leap which none could equal or exceed,
The leap in Aber Nowydd, which thou, fair flower!
Didst once so much admire, thyself the meed.Full fifty feet, as still the truth is known,
And many witnesses can still attest;
How there the prize I won, thyself must own:
This action stamp’d my worth within thy breast.Bingley’s North Wales.
At Llanfair, which is about a mile distant from this road, was born the celebrated scholar and poet, Goronwy Owen, who, notwithstanding his acknowledged and admired abilities, was, after a series of hardships and struggles, obliged to expatriate himself to the wilds of Virginia, where he was appointed pastor of the church. He was well versed in the Latin, Greek, and oriental languages, was a skilful antiquary and an excellent poet. His Latin odes are greatly admired; but his Welsh poems rank him among the most distinguished bards of his country.
About five miles west of Beaumaris is Peny-mynydd, the birth-place of Owen Tudor, a private gentleman, who, having married Catherine of France, the Dowager of our Henry V. in 1428, became the ancestor of a line of monarchs. They had three sons and one daughter. The daughter died in her infancy: Edmund was created Earl of Richmond, and marrying a daughter of the Duke of Somerset, had Henry, afterwards Henry VII. Jasper was created Earl of Pembroke; and Owen became a monk. By means of his marriage, therefore, Owen Tudor not only became father to a line of kings, but in his son, as Gray says, Wales came to be governed again by their own princes.
The Tudor family became extinct in Richmond Tudor, who died in 1657, and the estate belongs to R. B. Williams Bulkeley, Esq. In the church is one of their monuments, removed from Lanvaes Abbey at its dissolution.