VALE OF GLAMORGAN,
so justly styled the Garden of South Wales: the rapid Taff forms an almost continued uproar for many miles; on the opposite side the mountains rose almost perpendicularly in a massy wall, and sometimes to the water’s edge, finely clothed with wood. Every circumstance conspired to heighten the solitary grandeur of the scene, and to prolong the luxurious melancholy which the views inspired. In this celebrated vale is found the famous Pont-y-prid, or New Bridge, about three quarters of a mile from the Duke of Bridgewater’s Arms. This wonderful bridge of one arch is the segment of a circle; the chord of it is one hundred and forty feet, and the height of the key-stone from the spring of the arch, thirty-two feet and a half. It was erected in the year 1750, by William Edwards, a country mason, who failed in his attempt three times, till he lightened the abutments; it has resisted for many years the torrents of the Taff.
This bridge, which in its present state is nearly useless, might, at a very trifling expense, be made as useful as it is wonderful; but the river, which is at most times fordable, renders this perhaps unnecessary. Till this bridge was erected, the Rialto at Venice was esteemed the largest arch in Europe; its span or chord being ninety-eight feet: but this bridge is forty-two feet wider; being, it is supposed, the largest arch in the world.
Wales is generally remarkable for its white-washed cottages, the origin of which custom is attributed to Glamorganshire: the cleanliness, as far as this county is concerned, is chiefly on the outside; but so great is their attachment to lime white, that even the stone garden-wall, the pig-sty, or any stone within moderate distance of the cottage, receives its due share of attention; in some parts even the blue slate roof, which to the eyes of an Englishman forms a happy contrast to the whitened wall, is offensive to the eyes of the Welsh, and the roof undergoes the same process as the walls.
The intrusion of art in this romantic valley, where nature has been so lavish of her beauties, is much to be lamented. A canal, for the purpose of conveying the iron from the Merthyr works to Cardiff, renders that a place of frequent business and confusion, which was originally so well adapted to retirement and reflection.
Not only the road from hence to Merthyr, but all the way from Cardiff to that place, the road is esteemed amongst the best in Wales; the views along it are likewise such as to keep the attention alive, nature and art combining to give effect: in one place the rapid Taff is seen breaking its way through the woody cliffs, to the lowest level of the vale, and in the next instant the boats are seen navigating the canal, which winds its course most strangely round the mountain’s brow, three hundred feet above the current of the Taff.
Long before you reach Merthyr, the blackened atmosphere points out the site; but when immediately upon it, you are obliged to inquire where it is, and the way to it: from Cardiff you approach it by the Plymouth works, belonging to Mr. Hill: these lie wide and scattered, and are still extending, the road passing through them for a considerable distance; they are altogether worked by water, forming various fine falls from the same source, viz. the Taff.
After passing these, you appear entering on an extended suburb to a large town; but the town itself is nowhere visible: it is without form or order; in short, to get to your inn you can scarcely find your way along the main road; for to dignify it with the name of street, is more than it merits; yet here is collected together a larger and more bustling population than any other town in the principality can boast; its markets are large, well attended, and more than reasonable; its shopkeepers are numerous and thriving; and all that seems to be required to make this town one of the most respectable in the principality is a little attention to order and cleanliness: the lower classes, it is true, are miserably poor; still, even about the iron-works, there are so many better provided for, and so much money is monthly put into circulation, that but little trouble would be wanted to make it assume the appearance, as well as enjoy the reality, of being a populous busy town of trade.
The largest works at Merthyr are the Cyfartha, belonging to Mr. Crawshay: these now consist of six blast furnaces, and two near the town, with fineries, air and puddling furnaces, mill forges, &c. in proportion. The blast is furnished by a steam engine of eighty-horse power and an immense overshot water-wheel, fifty feet in diameter, by seven feet in width: this wheel rests on gudgeons, which weigh one hundred tons: it consumes about twenty-five tons of water per minute; part of the water is brought a considerable distance along a trough supported by stone pillars; the rest is furnished from the Taff.
The gudgeons of all the wheels, and of such parts of the machine where there is any friction, have water continually running over them, to prevent their taking fire. It is the particular office of one man to grease every part of the machine whilst in motion; to accomplish which, he is frequently obliged to ride on an iron bar, similar to the lever of a pump when in motion, a considerable way from the ground. The whole of this machinery is worked by water, not more than a foot deep, which is conveyed by a long spout to the top of the wheel, where it discharges itself. The ore, lime-stone, and coals, which they use to promote the fusion of the ore, are all found on the spot. The ore, previous to its being thrown into the furnace, is burnt in a common lime-pit; the goodness of it is afterwards proved, by its adhesion to the tongue: the coal is all charked, and continually put into the furnace with certain proportions of ore. From the pigs, the iron is rolled into flat plates by a cylinder; this is performed with the greatest despatch. The gaunt figures of the workmen excite both pity and terror, and the sallow countenances and miserable air of the people prove it is a labour very prejudicial to their health.
Mr. Crawshay employs upwards of five thousand men in his works only; but to form an estimate of the numbers employed, and the produce of iron afforded, I subjoin the following list of the principal works in the vales from Abergavenny to Neath, each furnace producing, on an average, from forty-five to seventy tons of iron per week. The two large furnaces, belonging to Messrs. Crawshay, near to Merthyr, are said to have furnished, for a short period, upwards of one hundred tons each per week.
FURNACES.
Clydac, or Llanelly (in the parish of latter) | |
Freer | 2 furnaces |
4 | |
The Varteg | 2 |
Nant eglo, Bayley | 4 |
Beaufort, Kendal | 3 |
Ebro Vale, Harford | 2 |
Sirhowy, Harford | 2 |
Tredegar, S. Homfray and Co. | 5 |
Romney, Mrs. Hall | 2 |
Dowlass, Guest and Co. | 8 |
Penydarran, Forman and Thompson | 5 |
Cyfartha, Crawshays | 8 |
Plymouth, R. I. and A. Hill | 5 |
Aberdare, formerly Thompson and Scales, now Scales andCo. | 3 |
Abernant, ditto, Tappendens | 1 |
Hirwaen | 2 |
Myers and company, four miles short of Neath,charcoal furnace, &c. | |
The immense collections of cinder, or refuse from the ore, astonish the beholder: it appears almost incredible, that the labour of man could transport such quantities of materials; but when, added to this, you reflect that nearly the whole has passed through the furnaces, and been moved two or three times, how much is the wonder increased! In short, to witness what immense capitals, indefatigable industry, and human ingenuity can accomplish, in dragging forth the bowels of the earth, the vales of the Taff from Brecon to Cardiff, and the very numerous vales running parallel with the Taff, betwixt Abergavenny and Neath, should be explored, both above ground, and in the mines; the value of the inclined planes and rail-roads only would be immense.
About three miles to the north-east of Merthyr are the remains of Castle Morlais, an extensive and singular ruin: it was originally a British post, afterwards rebuilt by Gilbert, Earl of Gloucester, in the reign of Edward I., and the source of a quarrel betwixt that nobleman and Humphrey de Bohun, Earl of Hereford, which brought down the anger of the monarch on both their heads to such extent, as to subject them to fine and imprisonment: it was so completely destroyed by the Parliamentary army in the seventeenth century, that its form and extent are difficult to trace; a small keep, or look-out, on the most elevated part of its site, still, however, remains: its upper story is much dilapidated; and the walls as well as roof nearly destroyed, except the door-way and window, which are of freestone: from the top of one of these the view of the Black Mountains, &c. is most extensive: the lower apartment (part of the vaulted roof of which has at length yielded to time, and the injuries of the animals who have resorted to the upper apartment for shelter) has once been curious; the arches, twelve in number, which supported its roof sprang from a pillar in the centre; the rib of the arch is freestone, and shows good masonry; the wall is likewise rubbed stone, part of which has been defaced, apparently to see if it communicated with any other part of the castle, or contained any thing worthy the searching for. The pleasantest way for an active person to ascend to this ruin, is at the bridge above the Cyfartha works, to take the right bank, ascending the little Taff: for some distance you pass along the quarries, and at length reach a path cut through the woods, along the banks of this romantic stream: the termination of the path obliges you to incline to the right, and passing two fields, you begin to ascend the hill between a stone wall and extensive lime-stone quarries, belonging to the Pendarren works. The ascent is steep; but if fine, you are amply repaid, on reaching the summit, by the extensive views you command. Dowlass works, which, as well as Cyfartha, have eight furnaces, are seen from here to great advantage. The descent to Merthyr, along the rail-road from the lime-stone quarries you passed in ascending, is easy and pleasant, running alongside the beautiful grounds of Mr. Forman, formerly belonging to Mr. S. Homfray, and which a former tourist describes as containing all of elegance or comfort that Merthyr can boast of. From hence we travelled the road to Pont Neath Vechan, the first part of which is hilly, rough, and through a barren country; but the latter half is rich in scenery, sublime and awful, from pendent rocks and gushing cataracts, and worthy the time and observation of the admirer of nature’s beauties.