APPLICATION OF FANCY NEEDLEWORK TO USEFUL PURPOSES.
Lace.—This imitation is used as an elegant finish for carriage bags, sofa pillows, &c.; and also for ladies’ work bags, to which it is both ornamental and becoming.
Princess Royal.—This pattern is especially proper for bags or small stands.
Point Stitch, is well adapted for working covers for hassocks, as well as for bags of a considerable size.
Basket Stitch.—This kind of work is very elegant for flower, fruit, or work baskets; or any other of an ornamental character.
German Pattern, is well adapted for slippers, as, when worked, it is found to be very durable, and its appearance peculiarly fits it for this application.
Embroidery, is of almost universal application: that with chenille is much used in the ornamental parts of dress, and is productive of a most pleasing effect. Embroidery in wool is also much in use for the same purpose.
Rug Borderings.—These may be considered as articles of domestic economy; and besides the pleasure which arises from seeing the parlor, or the side-board, adorned with the elegant productions of a daughter, or a sister, this kind of work is at all times, when properly executed, superior, considered merely as work, far superior to any similar productions emanating from the loom.
Gentlemen’s Waistcoats and Braces.—By being able to perform this kind of work, it is at all times in the power of the fair sex to offer an elegant present to a father, husband, or brother, and thus to increase the hallowed pleasures of the domestic circle. This reason is amply sufficient to induce our lovely countrywomen to cultivate this department of fancy needlework.
Wire Work.—This is a lovely material for baskets, and various kinds of ornamental fabrications.
Working Figures.—This delightful application of the needle may be rendered subservient to numerous useful and interesting purposes. By it the sister arts of painting and design may be materially promoted: the scenes of former days may be delineated on the historic canvas, or the portrait of a departed friend may be placed before us, as when blooming in all the living lustre of angelic loveliness. Let this portion of the art be especially and assiduously cultivated.
Armorial Bearings.—These are proper for screens, and may be made of a high moral utility, by exciting in the minds of the young, an ardent desire to become acquainted with the events of history, and with the actions and principles of former times.
Mosaic Work, and Perforated Card.—These are used for note books, ornamental card cases, hand screens, book marks and a variety of other useful purposes.
Braid Work.—The application of this kind of work is well known, and is so general, that no particular cases need be pointed out.
Applique.—This is very elegant, as employed for table covers, sofas, chairs, &c.; indeed it always looks pretty, and to whatever it is applied it has a pleasing effect.
Star Patterns, are proper for sofa cushions, bottle stands, or any piece of work that is small.
Medallion Pattern.—Where the work is coarse, or large, these may be introduced with good effect; but especial attention must be paid to a proper combination of colors and shades.
CHAPTER XI.
FANCY NEEDLEWORK.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
Instructions in Grounding.—Care must be taken in grounding to make the effect of contrast very conspicuous. Thus, if you ground in dark colors, your pattern should be worked in shades of a light and lively tint; for those in which dark shades predominate, a light ground is indispensible. The canvas for white grounding should be white; and if for dark grounding, a striped fabric is employed. The stripes will sometimes appear through the wool. To prevent this it will be necessary to rub over the surface with a little Indian ink water previous to commencing working, but care must be taken not to let the mixture run into the edges of the work, and it must be quite dry before you commence grounding. A camel’s hair brush is best for this purpose. In working in cross stitch, it is best to do so on the slant, working from right to left across the canvas, and then back again. This is preferable to crossing each stitch as you proceed, and gives an improved appearance to the work.
If you work in tent stitch, work straight, or your performance will be uneven when taken out of the frame. In all cases begin to go round from the centre, and work outwards, taking care to fasten off as you finish with each needleful, which should not be too long, as the wool is liable to get rough and soiled. It is also necessary to have them irregular as to length, to prevent the fastenings coming together which they will be apt to do if this suggestion is not attended to. For working in tent stitch with single wool, the canvas must not have more than fourteen threads to an inch; for cross stitch you must have a canvas not coarser than twenty-two threads to an inch; for the former, you will for every two and a half square inches require a skein of wool; in the latter case a skein will cover two inches. Following this calculation, you can easily ascertain the quantity of wool required for any piece of work; and it is advisable to purchase all your wool at the same time, otherwise you will have much trouble in matching the shades. An attention to these instructions will soon make you a proficient in the grounding department of the art.
Working Figures.—This is at once one of the most difficult, and at the same time one of the most pleasing tasks which the votary of fancy needlework will have to perform; they generally produce the best effect when worked in wool and silk, with a judicious mixture of gold and silver beads. The hair and drapery should be worked in cross stitch; and the face, neck, and hands, in tent stitch; working four of the latter for one of the former. To obtain the proper tints for the face, &c., is no easy task; but it must be carefully attended to, as almost the whole beauty of the work depends upon it. The shades in these parts of the figure must be extremely close; indeed upon shading of the features the perfection of the performance mainly depends. The drapery also demands considerable care: the shades must be very distinct, particularly the lighter ones in the folds of the dress; and the back ground should be subdued as much as possible, that a proper prominence may be given to the figure: this object will be aided considerably by working in the lighter shades in silk: any representation of water or of painted glass, should be worked in the same material. The intention of the fair worker should be to give to her performance as near an approximation to oil painting as possible.
Raised Work.—This should be done with German wool, as it more nearly resembles velvet. For working flowers, you must have two meshes, one-seventh of an inch in width, and the pattern must be worked in gobelin stitch. Be careful not to take one mesh out, until you have completed the next row. You work across the flowers; and in order to save an unnecessary waste of time, as well as to facilitate your work, it will be best to thread as many needles as you require shades, taking care not to get the various shades mixed together. This is more needful, as you cannot, as in cross stitch, finish one shade before commencing another. When the pattern is worked, cut straight across each row, with a pair of scissors suitable to the purpose, and shear the flower into its proper form.
For working animals or birds, you must have three meshes; the first, one quarter; and the third, one seventh of an inch: the second must be a medium between these two. You will require the largest for the breast, and the upper parts of the wings. Cross stitch may be employed in working the beak, or feet, and is indeed preferable. You may work leaves, either in cross stitch or in gobelin stitch, as taste or fancy may direct. You may work either from a drawing on canvas, or from Berlin pattern; but the latter is decidedly to be preferred.
Working Berlin Patterns.—For these patterns, it will be necessary to work in canvas, of eighteen or ten threads to the inch, according as you may desire the work to be a larger, or of the same size as the pattern: and, it must be borne in mind, that all the patterns are drawn for tent stitch, so that if you work in cross stitch, and wish to have it the same size as the pattern, you must count twenty stitches on the canvas, for ten on the paper. The choice of colors, for these patterns, is a matter of essential importance as the transition from shade to shade, if sudden and abrupt, will entirely destroy the beauty of the design. A natural succession of tints, softly blending into each other, can, alone produce the desired effect. In working flowers, five or six shades will be required: in a rose, or other large flower, six shades are almost indispensible; of these, the darkest should form the perfect centre, then the next (not prominently, though perceptibly) differing from it, and the next four to the lightest tint; the whole, to be so managed, as to give to the flower that fulness, and distinctness, which its position in the design demands. For small flowers, so many shades are rarely necessary. The two darkest shades should be strong, the others soft; this secures sufficiency of contrast, without impairing that harmony of tints, which is so indispensible. You must recollect, that for work done in tent stitch, a greater contrast of shade is required, than for that done in cross stitch. This remark should never be lost sight of. A proper attention to the shading of leaves, is indispensible; the kinds of green required, for this purpose, are bright grass green, for a rose; Saxon green, for lilies, convolvolus, peonies, &c.; French green, for iris, marigold, narcissus, &c.; and for poppies, tulips, &c.; a willow green, which has a rather bluer tint than French green is generally; and for leaves which stand up above the flowers, or near them, it is proper to work the tips in a very light green, as reflecting the rays of light: the next shade should be four times darker, or three at the least; the next two; then the fourth shade, two darker than the third; and the fifth, two darker than the fourth: take care that the veins of leaves be distinctly marked, and those which are in the shade should be darker than those upon which the light falls; and if of a color having a bluish tint, a few worked in olive green will have a fine effect. The stalks of roses, &c., should be worked in olive brown or a very dark green. White flowers are often spoilt, by being worked of too dark a shade; if you do not work with silk, you may obtain two distinct shades of white, by using Moravian cotton and white wool; these combined with three shades of light stone color—the second two shades darker than the first, and the third darker than the second, in the same proportions—will produce a beautiful white flower, which if properly shaded, by leaves of the proper tints, will have a most beautiful appearance. The lighter parts of all flowers, in Berlin patterns, may be worked in silk; and in many cases that is a decided improvement; but it should never be introduced in the leaves; here it would be out of place. We again repeat, beware of servile copying: try to engage your own judgment in this work, and, remember, that to become used to think and to discriminate, is one of the most valuable acquisitions that a young lady can attain.
We have now, we trust, placed before the young student of fancy needlework, such plain directions, in all things essential to the art, as cannot fail, if a proper degree of thought and attention is bestowed upon them, to make her a proficient in this delightful employment. With one or two additional remarks, we will conclude this portion of our labors. The young votary of the needle must recollect that, if she allows her fondness for this accomplishment to draw off her attention from the more serious or useful business of life, she will act decidedly wrong and had far better never learn it at all. Another thing to be especially guarded against, is, not to devote too much time to this, or any other engagement, at once; the mind and body are both injured, to a serious extent, by dwelling too long on a single object. Let it never for a moment be forgotten, relaxation and exercise are indispensible, if you wish to enjoy good health, or an even and pleasant temper. Again, take care that you never become so absorbed in the object of your pursuit, as to allow it to interfere with the calls of friendship, benevolence, or duty. The young lady who can forget her moral and domestic duties, in the fascinations of the embroidery frame, gives but little promise of excellence, in the more advanced stages of life.
Let neatness, and order, characterize all your arrangements.
Cut your silks and wools into proper lengths, and fold them in paper, writing the color on each, and numbering them according to their shades, 1, 2, 3, &c., beginning with the darkest.
Dispose all your materials so as to come at them without trouble or inconvenience, and use every possible care to prevent your work from being spoiled in the performance.
We advise every young lady to pay particular attention to painting and design; and to render every accomplishment subservient to some high and moral development of the heart, and of the character.
CHAPTER XII.
KNITTING.
EXPLANATION OF STITCHES.
Before entering upon the immediate subject of this chapter, we wish to make a few remarks; which, we trust, will be acceptable to our fair readers.
The art of knitting is supposed to have been invented by the Spanish; and would doubtless form, in connection with needlework, an agreeable relaxation, amid the stiff formality and unvarying mechanical movements which made up, for the most part, the lives of the ancient female nobility of that peninsula. The Scotch also lay claim to the invention, but we think upon no sufficient authority. Knitted silk-hose were first worn in England by Henry VIII., and we are told that a present of a pair of long knitted silk stockings, of Spanish manufacture, was presented to the young prince (Edward VI.), by Sir Thomas Gresham, and was graciously received, as a gift of some importance. Clumsy and unsightly cloth-hose had been previously worn: and, though we are told by Howel, that Queen Elizabeth was presented with a pair of black knitted silk stockings, by Mistress Montague, her silk-woman, yet her maids of honor were not allowed to wear an article of dress, which her royal pride deemed only suited to regal magnificence. We believe the first pair of knitted stockings, ever made in England, were the production of one William Rider, an apprentice, residing on London Bridge; who, having accidentally seen a pair of knitted worsted stockings, while detained on some business, at the house of one of the Italian merchants, made a pair of a similar kind, which he presented to the Earl of Pembroke, 1564. The stocking-frame was the invention of Mr. W. Lee, M. A., who had been expelled from Cambridge, for marrying, in contravention to the statutes of the university. Himself and his wife, it seems, were reduced to the necessity of depending upon the skill of the latter, in the art of knitting, for their subsistence; and as necessity is the parent of invention, Mr. Lee, by carefully watching the motion of the needles, was enabled, in 1589, to invent the stocking-frame; which has been the source of much advantage to others, though there is reason to believe the contrivance was of little service to the original proprietor. Since its first introduction, knitting has been applied to a vast variety of purposes, and has been improved to an extent almost beyond belief. It has furnished to the blind, the indigent, and almost destitute Irish cottage girl, the means, pleasure and profit at the same time. Many ladies, including some in the rank of royalty, have employed their hours of leisure in the fabrication of articles, the produce of which have gone to the funds of charity, and have tendered to the alleviation of at least some of
“The numerous ills that flesh is heir to;”
and amongst those, the labors of the Hon. Mrs. Wingfield, upon the estates of Lord de Vesci, in Ireland, ought not to be forgotten.
To Cast on the Loops or Stitches.—Take the material in the right hand, and twist it round the little finger, bring it under the next two, and pass it over the fore finger. Then take the end in the left hand, (holding the needle in the right,) wrap it round the little finger, and thence bring it over the thumb, and round the two fore fingers. By this process the young learner will find that she has formed a loop: she must then bring the needle under the lower thread of the material, and above that which is over the fore finger of the right hand under the needle, which must be brought down through the loop, and the thread which is in the left hand, being drawn tight, completes the operation. This process must be repeated as many times as there are stitches cast on.
Knitting Stitch.—The needle must be put through the cast-on stitch, and the material turned over it, which is to be taken up, and the under loop, or stitch, is to be let off. This is called plain stitch, and is to be continued until one round is completed.
Pearl Stitch.—Called also seam, ribbed, and turn stitch, is formed by knitting with the material before the needle; and instead of bringing the needle over the upper thread, it is brought under it.
To Rib, is to knit plain and pearled stitches alternately. Three plain, and three pearled, is generally the rule.
To cast over.—This means bringing the material round the needle, forward.
Narrowing.—This is to decrease the number of stitches by knitting two together, so as to form only one loop.
Raising.—This is to increase the number of stitches, and is effected by knitting one stitch as usual, and then omitting to slip out the left hand needle, and to pass the material forward and form a second stitch, putting the needle under the stitch. Care must be taken to put the thread back when the additional stitch is finished.
To Seam.—Knit a pearl stitch every alternate row.
A Row, means the stitches from one end of the needle to the other; and a ROUND, the whole of the stitches on two, three, or more needles. Note, in casting on a stocking, there must always be an odd stitch cast on for the seam.
To bring the thread forward, means to pass it between the needles toward the person of the operator.
A Loop Stitch, is made by passing the thread before the needle. In knitting the succeeding loop, it will take its proper place.
A Slip Stitch, is made by passing it from one needle to another without knitting it.
To fasten on.—This term refers to fastening the end of the material, when it is necessary to do so during the progress of the work. The best way is to place the two ends contrarywise to each other, and knit a few stitches with both.
To cast off.—This is done by knitting two stitches, passing the first over the second, and so proceeding to the last stitch, which is to be made secure by passing thread through it.
Welts, are rounds of alternate plain and ribbed stitches, done at the top of stockings, and are designed to prevent their twisting or curling up.
Sometimes knitting is done in rows of plain and pearl stitches, or in a variety of neat and fanciful patterns. Scarcely any kind of work is susceptible of so much variety, or can be applied to so many ornamental fabrics or uses in domestic economy. The fair votary of this art must be careful neither to knit too tight or too loose. A medium, which will soon be acquired by care and practice, is the best, and shows the various kinds of work to the best advantage. The young lady should take care to preserve her needles entirely free from rust, and to handle the materials of her work with as delicate a touch as possible.
Having thus given instructions in the common rudiments of this useful art, we proceed to give plain directions for some of the most beautiful.
FANCY STITCHES IN KNITTING.
Bee’s Stitch.—In knitting a purse in this stitch, you must cast the loops on three needles, having twenty on each. The two first rows in plain knitting. The third is thus worked. Having brought the silk in front, a stitch is to be slipped, and you knit the next, pulling the one you slipped over it; you knit the next, and the succeeding one is pearled; proceed in this manner for one round. The next round you knit plain; the next is to be executed like the third. Proceed thus in alternate rounds, and you can introduce two colors, highly contrasted, knitting six or eight rounds of each.
Berlin Wire Stitch.—The stitches cast on must be an even number. Knit three, four, or five plain rows. Then begin the work by taking off the first stitch, knit one stitch, knit off two stitches together, and make a stitch; repeat this process to the end of the row; the next row is to be knitted plain, and so on alternately.
This work may be done either with large pins and lamb’s wool, if it be intended for shawls, &c., or with fine needles and thread, in which case it forms a beautiful kind of insertion work for frocks, capes, collars, and other articles of dress. If it is intended for insertion work, the number of stitches cast on are eight, and one pattern is formed by each four stitches.
Common Plait.—This is employed for muffatees, coverlets, and various other articles. You cast on the stitches in threes: the number is unlimited. Knit one row plain, then proceed as follows. Row first, three plain stitches and three pearled. Second row the same, taking care to begin where the last is finished, that is, if you ended with plain stitches, you begin with the pearled. Proceed in the same way with the third row, and you will have a succession of squares, of inside and outside knitting, alternately. The fourth row is to be begun with the same kind of stitches as completed the first row; continue as before, and the work will be in squares, like those of a chess board. This stitch is extremely pretty.
Chain Stitch.—The number of loops to be cast on is thirteen. Knit the first two rows plain, and in beginning the third, knit three plain stitches, and bring the material in front, then pearl seven stitches; the material is then to be turned back, and you knit the other three stitches plain. The next row is plain knitting, and then you proceed as in the third row, and so on alternately, until you have completed sixteen rows. You then knit three stitches plain, and take off the four succeeding ones upon a spare pin. The next three stitches from behind the pin, are to be knitted so as to miss it completely, and the material is to be drawn so tight, as that the pins may be connected together as closely as possible. This done you knit the four stitches of the third pin, which completes the twist. The remaining three stitches are then to be knitted, and a fresh link begun, by knitting three stitches, pearling seven, knitting three, and so proceeding for sixteen rows, when another twist is to be made.
Crow’s-foot Stitch.—This stitch may be worked in two ways. If it be for a shawl, begin at the corner, and raise at the beginning and end of each row.
In the other method, you cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by three, and you must cast on one additional for the commencement. You knit the first row plain and then proceed according to the following directions: First, knit a stitch. Second, make a stitch. Third, slip the next. Fourth, knit two stitches together. Fifth, put the stitch you slipped over the two last knitted; this is to be repeated, with the exception of the first knitted stitch, to the end of the row. The next row is composed entirely of pearled stitches. This stitch is neat and elegant.
Double Knitting.—Of this stitch there are three kinds, now in general use. In executing them proceed as follows. Having cast on any even number of stitches, knit a few rows in plain knitting; then, for the double stitch, begin the row by knitting a stitch, and pass the material in front, between the knitting pins. Then a stitch is to be taken off, being careful to put the needle inside the loop, and to pass the material back again. You then knit another stitch, and so proceed to the end of the row.
For the second kind of double knitting, you cast on an even number of stitches, as before, and the first stitch is knitted plain; the material being put twice over the pin. Then, as in the first kind, pass the material between the needles; a stitch is to be slipped, and the material passed again behind. This process is repeated in every stitch to the end of the row. In the next row, you reverse the work, knitting the stitches that were before slipped, and slipping the knitted ones. The third kind is very simple, and can be done quicker than the others. It is worked on the wrong side, and when completed must be turned inside out; hence it is necessary to knit plain at the sides or ends. The number of stitches must be even, as in the previous methods. No plain row is needed; but you commence by putting the material in front of the pins, and being careful to keep it constantly in that position. Turn the first stitch, take off the second, and so on alternately, till the row is finished.
Dutch Common Knitting.—This is the common knitting stitch, performed in a more expeditious manner than that in general practised. The needle filled with stitches, is held in the left hand, and the material also, which is to be wrapped round the little finger once or twice. It passes to the needles over the fore finger. To form the loop on the needle held in the right hand, it is only necessary to put it into the stitch from behind, and knit off by putting the material round the needle.
Embossed Diamond.—You cast on any number of stitches which can be divided by seven. The first row is plain: for the second, pearl one stitch, knit five, and pearl two; thus proceed, alternately, to complete the row: for the third, knit two, pearl three, and knit four, and so proceed. The fourth row you pearl three, knit one, and pearl six, alternately. The fifth row is plain knitting. The next row you pearl two, knit two, pearl five, and so on to the end. Next knit two, pearl four and knit three, alternately. Next knit six, and pearl one, successively. Reverse the next, pearling six, and knitting one. Then in the succeeding row, knit five and pearl three, and knit four in succession. Next knit three, pearl two, and knit five, alternately. The succeeding row is plain.
Embossed Hexagon Stitch.—You can work with any number of stitches you choose, which can be divided by six. The first row is plain, the next pearled throughout; the third row is plain. For the first knit four stitches, and slip two at the end; then pearl a row, taking care to slip the stitches that were slipped before. Next knit a row slipping the two stitches as before. The next row is pearled still slipping the two stitches. The succeeding two rows are knitted and pearled like the others, and the two stitches are still to be slipped. The next row is pearled, and you take up all the stitches; then a row is to be knitted plain, and a row pearled, which completes the pattern. In beginning the next pattern, you pearl a row, slipping the fifth and sixth stitches, so that they shall be exactly in the centre of the previously worked pattern; you then proceed as before.
Elastic Rib.—This as its name implies, is the proper stitch for garters, or any kind of an article which is wanted to fit easily yet firmly. You are to set on any number of loops you please, and knit one row plain; the next is pearled, the two next are plain; then one pearled, and so on alternately to the end.
Fantail Stitch.—The application of this stitch is in the preparation of mitts, gloves, &c., and sometimes it is used for purses, in which it looks extremely pretty. The material generally employed is cotton, and you begin by setting on any even number of stitches you require. A loop is made, by throwing the cotton over the pin; you then knit a loop, and make and knit alternately; each of the two last are knitted plain, and you narrow the commencement and conclusion of each row, at the second and third loops, until you have reduced it to the number originally cast on. The usual number of stitches cast on is fourteen.
French Stitch.—You set on the loops in fours, and must have two over. The first stitch is pearled, then turn the thread back, and knit two stitches together. Form a new stitch by bringing the thread in front, and knit a stitch; the thread is again to be brought in front, and the last stitch pearled, which completes the pattern. The next row is begun in a similar manner, the thread is turned back, two stitches are knitted together at the end, the thread is turned, and you knit the last stitch.
German Knitting.—You cast on twenty-one stitches, and proceed as follows. First row, the material is to be passed forward, one stitch slipped, then knit one, and pass the slipped one over; three stitches are then to be knitted, and two taken as one; again pass the material forward, and knit one stitch. Second row, the same, except that when in the first you knitted three stitches, knit one; and when one, you knit three. For the third row, you pass the material as before, and slip one stitch, then two are taken as one, and the slipped one is passed over again; repeat this, except that in taking two stitches together, you knit one, and pass the slipped one over; finish by knitting two stitches.
Honeycomb Stitch.—This is also often used for shawls. It is knitted as follows. You knit the first stitch, and pass the other to make a loop over the needle. Two stitches are then knitted together, and you thus continue making the loops, and knitting two stitches together, until you have completed the row. You knit every second row thus; the alternate ones plain.
Herring-bone Bag Stitch.—You cast on the stitches by fours, and the material used is silk. Knit two plain stitches, and then make a large one, by turning the silk twice over the needle; after which, knit two stitches together, and repeat this, until you have completed the work.
Imitation Net-work Stitch.—You set on any number of stitches you please, but you must have no odd ones. The first row is plain knitting. The next row you commence by bringing the wool upon the first pin, and twisting it round it by bringing it over from behind, and putting it behind again. You are then to knit two loops together, and the pin must be put first into the one nearest to you, and the wool is to be twisted round the pin as before. Then again, knit two together, and so on to the end. Each row is done in the same manner.
Knit Herring-bone Stitch.—Any number of stitches you please may be cast on, observing to have three for each pattern, and one over at each end. The first row must be plain: then, in beginning the second, take off the first stitch, and knit two together in pearl stitch. Next make one, by passing the material before, and knitting one, pearl two stitches together, and make and knit a stitch as before. Every row is the same.
Lace Wave Stitch.—The number of stitches must be even. The first stitch is to be slipped; then knit one, and make one, by casting the material over the pin. Narrow, by knitting two stitches together, and again knit a stitch; then make one, and again narrow; and so on till you complete the row. The next row is done plain. The third row is as follows: two stitches knitted plain; make one stitch, and narrow two in one; then knit one stitch; make and narrow, as before to the end; then knit a row plain. For the fifth row, knit three stitches plain, and thus proceed as in the third row. The sixth row is done plain; and the seventh one commences by knitting four stitches plain, and then proceeding as before. The eighth row is plain; and the ninth is begun by knitting five plain stitches, and proceed as above; then knit two rows plain, and the pattern is complete. This can be continued to any length required.
Moss Stitch.—This is easily done. Cast on any even number of loops, and for the first row, the first loop is slipped, the material brought in front; the stitch is pearled, and repeat so to the end. The next row is so worked, that the stitches knit in the proceeding row, must be pearled in this.
Open Hem.—The number of stitches is unlimited, but they must be capable of being divided by four. At the beginning of each row you slip the first stitch, and knit the second. Then make a stitch by putting the cotton over the pin; knit two loops together; knit one stitch, make a stitch, and so proceed. You must have very fine pins and sewing cotton.
Open Cross Stitch.—This is done in the following manner. Two colors are to be employed, and the first row of each is done in pearl stitch. In working the second row of each, the following is the order of procedure: first, knit a stitch: second, make a stitch; third, slip one; fourth, two are to be knitted together, and the one slipped is to be drawn over the knitted ones; thus you proceed to the end of the row. The two next are to be commenced with the other color; and thus you work two rows with each color, successively. The fresh color is always to cross from beneath the last one, or otherwise a hole would be left in the work. In the making of shawls, this stitch is often adopted, and it looks well, but, of course, requires to be bordered with some other pattern.
Ornamental Ladder Stitch.—The stitches are to be set on in elevens. Commence by knitting two stitches plain, then knit two together, and repeat the same, drawing the first loop over the second; proceed thus to the end. Commence the second row by pearling two stitches; pass the material over the pin twice; again pearl two stitches, and so proceed to the end. In the next row, knit two; pass the material round the pin twice, knit two, and so continue. Thus you proceed with alternate rows of knitted and pearled stitches, being careful to slip the stitches made by throwing the material round the pin, without knitting them.
Pine Apple Stitch.—For a bag you must cast on thirty-six loops on three needles, and proceed thus: First row, knit one plain, raise one by throwing the silk over the pin, knit one plain, then raise, knit two plain, you knit the next two together, drawing the last loop over the first; you will then have six loops. In the second row, knit the first raised loop, then raise, knit the next one plain, then raise, knit plain till you come to the next raising, and omit knitting the two together as in the first row. Third row, you knit plain to the raising, and then proceed as in the first row. You knit the fourth as the second; and so proceed alternately, until you have twelve rows. Then in the stitches you had previously narrowed, you must raise, and introduce a bead upon each plain loop, with a thread, and again raise. Where you had previously raised, you must narrow with the bead you have upon the silk. In this manner proceed raising and narrowing alternately, until you have twelve rows as before. You then reverse, and again work as in the first part of the pattern.
Plain Open Stitch.—The stitches set on must be an even number. The two first rows are plain. Then commence the third row, by knitting one stitch; pass the material in front, and form a new stitch, by knitting two together. This is to be repeated, until you come to the last stitch, which must be knit. Then knit two plain rows and proceed as before.
Porcupine Stitch.—This is proper for a purse, and when properly executed, is extremely pretty. You cast on, upon each of three needles, thirty-six loops, and knit one plain round. For the next, you knit four stitches: and, having brought the silk forward, knit one loop: this will form the middle stitch of the pattern. Then, again bringing the silk forward, knit fourteen stitches; after which, slip one, and leaving the under part, knit two together, and draw the stitches, last slipped, over it. Then knit four stitches, as at the commencement, and so proceed for six rounds, increasing before and after each middle stitch. You knit till within one of where you decreased. The stitch thus left is to be slipped, and you then knit two together, and draw the slipped loop over it. You are then to knit one plain round, and the next row is also plain, except the loops which are over the middle stitches, where you are to insert a bead, by bringing it through the stitches. You next knit a round plain, and must be careful to keep the beads on the outside of the purse, or rather in the inside while knitting, as this purse is done the wrong side out. You are to knit, until you come within one loop of the bead, which must be slipped, and you knit the next two together. You are then to increase six rounds on each side of the stitch decreased as in the proceeding pattern, which will make that the middle or bead stitch. The material should be done in middle sized purse silk, on needles, No. 18.
Rough-cast Stitch.—Any odd number of stitches may be cast on. Each row is begun with a plain stitch, and the others are plain and pearled alternately. This is very suitable for borders, as it is firm and looks neat.
Wave Knitting.—This is proper for a pin-cushion, and looks extremely neat. Commence by casting on seventy-nine loops. Then proceed as follows. First row, knit four loops plain, pearl one, knit nine plain, and repeat to the end of the row, finishing with four plain loops. Commence the second row with three pearled stitches, knit three plain, pearl seven, repeat as before. Third row, knit two plain, pearl five, knit five plain, repeat. Fourth row, pearl one, knit seven plain, pearl three, repeat. Fifth row, pearl nine, knit one plain, pearl nine, and repeat to the end. This finishes the pattern.
CHAPTER XIII.
KNITTING.
EXAMPLES IN KNITTING.
A Biroche.—The stitch is very simple. You bring the wool forward, slip one, and knit two together. This elegant cushion is made up of sixteen narrow rows, and sixteen broad stripes, which decrease gradually toward the centre. It may be made in double German wool, or other material, with No. 19 ivory or wooden pins. Cast on ninety stitches, and knit two turns; then in gold color three turns, and again two in black: this forms the narrow stripe. Then form the broad stripe thus: knit two stitches, and turn; then knit two of the black, and turn; this must be continued, taking every time two additional stitches of the black, until you are within two stitches of the top, and then turn. You will now find the wool has descended to the wide part of the stripe. You then again commence a narrow stripe, and so go on, until the whole is completed. When the last wide stripe is finished, knit it to the first narrow stripe, and make up the biroche in any manner you please.
A Baby’s Cap.—Cast on 240 stitches, on three pins; knit twelve rounds, and be sure you pearl every alternate stitch: in the succeeding round you must pearl the stitches which were left plain in the preceding ones. Then take in eighty stitches, namely; one at every fourth, which will form a full border; then proceed to knit the cap thus: one row plain, the next open, then three plain, and twenty-four double knitting; again knit three rows plain, one open, repeat the three plain rows, again repeat the double knitting, and the plain and open rows as before; you next proceed to form the hinder part of the cap, by casting on twenty-four stitches at each end of the pins; knit forty-eight rows of double knitting, take in to the size of the crown, and knit three rows plain, one open, and repeat the three plain rows; then fasten off at top, unite the open space at the back, and repeat the plain and open rows as before. You form the crown, by casting on sixteen loops; then increase a loop at each end, for sixteen rows; then knit sixteen, and decrease as you increased, and thus the circle becomes regularly formed.
Baby’s Hood.—Use No. 18 needles, and double German wool; cast on fifty stitches, and knit eighty rows plain; roll up sixty, to form the front. Three inches of the cast off part are to be sewed together, and the rest is to be drawn up for the crown. Then cast on fifty stitches to form the foundation of the hood, and knit forty rows plain. Line with white silk, and trim with satin ribbon.
Baby’s Shoe.—Work with two colors, in stripes. You cast on twenty-eight stitches, in blue, and knit one row plain; then knit a plain row in white, adding one stitch at the end to form the heel, and turn; then a similar row in blue, to increase and turn, repeat this without increasing, and changing the colors each time, until you have ten stripes. Then knit one row in blue, and turn, casting off seventeen stitches. You begin from the heel. The remaining thirteen stitches are knitted with white; turn; knit a row with blue; turn: and so continue, until you have five rows of one color, and four of the other. The thirteen stitches are then to be done in blue, and seventeen to correspond, are to be added; turn: this side is finished like the other, decreasing from the heel. You then sew up the heel and toe, so as to form a shoe. You are then, with four needles, to pick up the stitches round the ankle and fore foot, putting an equal number upon each of the three needles, and knit five rows plain; make a stitch by bringing the wool forward, then slip one; knit the next two, and pass the slip-stitch over them; again bring the wool forward, and repeat the process for one round: knit eighteen rows, five plain, four pearled; repeat and finish, bringing the wool forward, knitting two together; then knit two rows plain, and cast off. You must use No. 14 needles, and double German wool.
A Beautiful Fringe and Border.—This can be applied to a variety of useful purposes. It is executed as follows. The number of stitches must be even, and of any depth you deem desirable. Begin, by making a stitch, laying the material over the needle; put it through two loops, and knit them as one; repeat to the end of the row; thus continue to knit as many rows as you please, and when the stripe is of sufficient length, fasten off, letting from four to ten stitches fall off the needle to unravel for the fringe.
A Comforter.—On a moderate sized pin, cast on forty stitches; and in knitting, carry the wool twice round the pin for each stitch. The comforter is to be done in double knitting, and may be finished with a fringe and border at the end. Without the fringe, you will require a quarter of a pound of six-thread untwisted lamb’s wool; for the fringe a little more will be required.
Another Comforter.—You are to cast on thirty stitches, and knit plain sixty-four ribs, knitting them backwards and forwards; then take twenty-two stitches from the middle of the side, and you will have twenty-one left one each end. Form a chest-piece, by knitting as before, twenty-two ribs, and fasten off: you have only to sew up the end, and it is done.
Zephyr.—This is a light shawl for a baby, and may be made either of a half-handkerchief form, or a square. Cast on about 130 loops, and knit in French or honey-comb stitch, which you like; or any other pretty pattern you prefer, as embossed hexagon, &c. You may add a fringe and border, which gives to the zephyr a rich and finished appearance.
An Over-shoe.—These are useful to wear in the house, or to slip over a satin shoe, when occasion requires. The number of stitches to be cast on is thirty-four. Knit a square, plain, which is to be doubled, and sewn up on one side, to the heel; then sew up three inches for the instep, and form the toe by puckering in the end.
A Knitted Muff, in imitation of Sable.—You cast on seventy or eighty stitches. Knit the first three rows plain; then, for the fourth row, bring the wool forward, and taking two stitches at the back, knit them; repeat to the end: these four must be repeated, until the piece is about half a yard long, taking care that the shading is as correct as possible. You must here use No. 19 needles, and double German wool. The shades required are four, and you begin with the lightest, proceeding to the darkest, and then reversing them. The muff must be stuffed, and lined with silk.
A Strong Knitted Purse.—Any number of stitches, that can be divided by three, will do. First and third row: The wool is to be brought forward, then slip one, knit two, and pass over them the slip stitch; repeat second and fourth row plain. Third and fifth row: knit two, before commencing the pattern; the holes will then fall in a diagonal direction: It will require to be well stretched.
Barege Knitting, for Shawls.—In this kind of work, you commence with any number of stitches you require: and, after knitting one row plain, you begin the second, by knitting three stitches; then, bring the wool forward, and knit three together, taking them off at the back; again you bring the wool forward, and knit three, as before. The third row is pearled; and the fourth is the second repeated, only beginning by knitting three stitches together. Fifth row, the same as the third; and thus proceed with any number of rows you choose. You may introduce any patterns in flowers, &c., you may desire, by breaking off the ground color, and fastening on that which is designed for the pattern, by means of a slip knot, made at the end of the wool. All flowers, &c., must be done in plain knitting.
Checked Patterns.—Any number of stitches may be cast on, that can be divided by six. Then knit the first three rows three pearl stitches, and three plain; second three rows, knit three stitches plain, and three pearl. This pattern may be worked for children’s socks, bags, mats, (if done in coarse materials,) &c.
Close Stitch, for a Waistcoat.—This is to be done in two colors, and cast on any odd number of stitches. First and fifth row, with one color; knit one, and slip one, in succession. Second and sixth row, with the same color; knit one, bring the wool forward, and slip one; pass the wool back, knit one, repeat. The third is the first reversed, and the fourth is worked exactly as the second, omitting the first stitch.
Pine Apple Purse.—The material is purse twist, and you will require two colors; one skein of green, and one and a half of orange. Cast on 159 stitches, and proceed as follows. Knit the first row, and turn it, then knit two rows, and again turn. To have ten points you must narrow and widen alternately every seven stitches. Proceed in this way with the green twist for fifteen rounds; then with the orange knit one plain row and turn, knit seven rows as before, knit one plain row and turn, then reverse the narrowings, so as to take up the loops at the beginning of every row of points, and make a loop on each side: you are to have eight rows of points. You make no loops in the second row, but having counted when you have finished the points, you seam in the first row of green and reverse the narrowings without taking up the loops, proceed to knit twelve rows; after which, you must narrow until you have but four loops on each pin, then knit the stalks, and narrow off.
Star, with Eight Points.—This is proper for the bottom of a bag or purse. In working it, proceed according to the following directions. You work with five needles, on each of four of which you cast on two stitches, eight in whole, knit one plain round. Then, first row, raise, knit one, raise, knit one, and put on one bead at every knitted loop. Second row, you knit a plain round. Third row, raise, knit two plain, raise, two plain; the raising is at the beginning and middle of each needle; and you thus proceed, until you have fifty beads on a needle, for a bag, and eighteen for a purse. To take off the points, proceed as follows: first row, raise one, knit one, raise one, slip one off needle as in knitting, knit one, and draw the one not knitted over it; knit plain, and put on beads until you come to the middle of the needle; thus proceed with each pin, and the star will be completed.
Knee Caps.—You commence with casting on eleven loops, and knitting eight rounds; then begin to raise every alternate round until you have forty-seven loops on the pins, knit eleven rounds plain, and then narrow until you have reduced the loops to eleven. Take off.
Knitting Footing.—The material is fine cotton, and you cast eleven stitches. Knit one row plain. Second row, knit one, make one, knit two together, knit three plain, make one, knit two together knit three plain. Third row, is the second row reversed; the fourth is the same as the second; and you thus proceed with each row, alternately, for any length you please. A bag knitted the same way, and put over blue or crimson silk, looks extremely handsome. The material for a bag is fine worsted, and you may cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by eleven, taking care to have one additional stitch for each twenty-two; that is, for four elevens, cast on forty-six.
Double Nightcap.—You will find five needles are required. You must cast on two stitches on each of four needles, and in the first row increase two, and in the second one plain stitch in each. In the third row, the centre stitch on each needle must be seamed, and you must increase on each side of it every other row, until you have attained the width required. You then knit the fourth and every succeeding row plain, until the cap is of a sufficient length, say twenty-four to twenty-eight inches, then decrease the first row, and make the other end to correspond with the one first knitted.
Dotted Knitting, for Baby’s Shoes, &c.—Cast on and knit as many rows as you desire, knitting one stitch plain, and the next pearled. Begin every other row with a pearled stitch. An odd number of stitches are required, and No. 8 needles.
Knitted Fringe.—This may be made of any material deemed most suitable for the purposes to which it is to be applied. Cast on eight stitches. First knit two, then make one by bringing the cotton round the needle, and knitting it when it occurs in the next row; then knit two stitches together, knit one, make one as before, knit two together, knit eight, and so proceed to the end of the row. When you have knitted as many rows as you require, cast off five stitches and leave three, to be unravelled, for the fringe. They may be knitted in two or more colors, taking care to knit them in equal spaces; that is, with an equal number of stitches in each color.
Gentleman’s Travelling Cap.—You first cast on an even number of stitches, and thus proceed; the first row is plain; then slip off the first stitch in each row, and make one, by bringing the material in front; then slip a stitch the contrary way, knit the next, and so proceed to the end of the row: you commence the next by slipping a stitch as before; then knit two stitches together to the last, which is to be knitted plain: repeat these rows alternately.
Herring-bone Purse.—The number of stitches must be so as to be divided by four. The silk is to be brought forward, then slip one, knit one, and bring the slip stitch over it. Knit one, again bring the silk forward, pearl one, and so repeat. This purse should be knitted with second sized netting silk, No. 13.
Half Handkerchief.—This is extremely pretty, when properly executed. Begin with one stitch to form the point, and knit as many rows, increasing one each row as is required to give you seven loops upon the pin. You must increase always at the same end: then commence the pattern. Make one stitch, slip one, and knit two stitches together, putting the slipped stitch over the two knitted as one. Repeat this until you have got to four stitches from the end; then again make a stitch, and knit the remainder plain. The next row is to be done in pearl stitch, and the succeeding one as the first pattern. Every row of pearl stitch must be increased one, and the three last stitches are to be knitted plain. This handkerchief must be one yard and a quarter long on the straight side. When completed, fasten off.
Habit Shirt.—These are worn under a shawl, and are extremely comfortable: they protect the chest from cold. The material most proper for them is floss wool, and they should be knitted with steel pins. You knit the front first, and begin by casting on as many loops as will form the length required. As it is necessary that one end should be a good deal more sloped than the other, you must be careful to increase at the end most sloped, at each end of the row; but at the other, you are only to increase at the end, and not at the beginning: having knitted one of the fronts, knit the other to match it, and then begin the back. Commence at the bottom, or narrow part of the waist, and increase at each end of every row, until it is wide enough to reach from one shoulder to the other, and then decrease at both ends of each row for the neck. You then finish the centre stitches, and knit up first on one side and then the other, decreasing each row, until a proper hollow is obtained. You then knit the collar straight, and of any depth you please. Make up, by sewing the various parts together, and set on a ribbon to the back, to tie round the waist, and another to secure it at the throat.
Harlequin Quilt, with Tucks.—This is done in double knitting stitch, with six threads fleecy. The pieces are six inches square. Each square consists of about 24 stitches, and they are to be sewn together with a tuft of wool, black or white, at each corner. The square should be knitted in at least three colors, including white; in a quilt one yard and a half square, there will be 225 pieces, 113 of which should be white. Make the tufts as follows: wind four-thread fleecy about 12 times round a grooved wooden mesh, one inch in width: then slip a coarse thread in the groove, and tie the wool quite tight, but taking care that an end is left to it, which can be drawn through and fastened to the quilt. The loops of wool are to be cut through on the other side of the mesh; after which it is to be combed and dressed as neatly as possible.
Pattern for a Light Scarf.—Cast on the number of stitches required upon No. 18 needles, and any kind of material you choose; three-threads fleecy is generally preferred. Knit one plain stitch, then two together, and so on alternately, to the end of the row: each succeeding one is but a repetition of the first: it may be done in stripes, with various colors.
Plain Knitted Muffatees.—For these you will require four needles. On three of these cast on an equal number of stitches, according to the size required, and knit each round three pearl and three plain: finish with one plain and two pearl rows.
Stockings.—Cast on first size 73, second 85, third 91, fourth 99, fifth 109, sixth 133. Then knit rounds to the commencement of the narrowings, 40, 52, 54, 56, 60, and 74, respectively, according to the sizes given above. The narrowings in the leg are according to the size, 8, 10, 12, 13, 14, and 21. After which you knit 18, 20, 25, 27, 30, or 45 rounds to the heel, which is to be formed in the following manner. The stitches are to be divided in half, taking care to have the seam stitch for the middle, and the heel is to be knitted in alternate turns of plain and pearled stitches. The length, of course, varies in proportion to the size, being 12 turns for the first and second, 13 for the third, 14 for the fourth, 15 for the fifth, and 20 for the sixth. The heel is finished by knitting the nine middle stitches in rows, the same as the heel, and taking up one of the others with the last loop of each row, till all is taken off. There will thus be nine stitches when the heel is finished. Having got thus far, you proceed to form the foot as follows. You take up sixteen on each side of the heel, in the second row, and taking them up, you make a seam on each side of the instep, knitting another stitch in the loop under the first and last, which prevents holes in the corners, that would otherwise occur. Then narrow every second round on the heel sides of the seam until the number of stitches are the same as those in the instep, or what is commonly called the fore foot needle. You will have for the instep 28, 32, 34, 40, or 46, as the case may be; and the rounds between the heel and toe narrowings, will be 14, 18, 23, 26, 30, and 34, respectively; and the narrowings for the feet will be 6, 8, 8, 8, 9, and 10, on each side, according to the measurement given. You begin the toe by narrowing double at the seams, leaving only the seam stitch between, and narrowing twice with three, and twice with two rounds left between each narrowing: then narrow twice, leaving but one round between, and then every round until sixteen stitches only are left. Finish by putting the two needles having stitches on them together. And when two stitches are done in this manner, cast them off, the first over the last, until the whole is taken off the needles. It should be noted, that the stitches in the heel vary with the size of the stocking, and are as follows: first size 29, second 33, third 33, fourth 37, fifth 41, and sixth 45.
Some workers take off the heel, in the same manner as the toe is here directed to be finished.
Open-work Stockings.—On each needle cast on 52 stitches with fine cotton, knit the welts and raise one stitch for the seam. When you arrive at the narrowings, narrow every eighth row, and when you have 38 stitches on each needle, cease, and knit until the article is completed; then take half the stitches to form the heel, knit 23 loops, and narrow on each side of the seam for three rows. In forming the heel, narrow every row once the fourth loop from the seam, and then the loops must be taken up, the end one as close as possible. Take three stitches from each side of the fore foot needle to the other, and knit a round plain; after which, widen every fifth stitch on both sides of the heel. Alternate rows of the heel needles are then to be narrowed until only 36 loops remain on each. The stitches to be narrowed are the fifth and sixth from the ends. Knit the feet of a proper length, and then narrow at the ends of the needles every other row, until only ten remain on each; narrow every row until you have only three, which you cast off in the usual manner. The open pattern is produced by knitting every fifth round thus: take two stitches in one, and bring the cotton in front of the needle, that it may form a stitch before taking the succeeding two into one. The more open you desire the work to be, the fewer stitches and the finer needles you will require.
A Night Stocking.—This is easily done: cast on 54 stitches on large needles, and pearl every other stitch, narrowing gradually toward the end.
Socks.—These are very useful articles, and are easy of execution. In the first size there are 49 stitches, in the second 55, and in the third 85; they have 16, 23, or 24 turns to the heel, in which there are 25, 29, or 43 stitches, as the size may require. The instep has 24, 25, or 42 stitches; and the length of the heel is 10, 12, or 14 turns. The length of the foot between the narrowings, is 10, 15, and 28 rounds.
Corner for a Shawl.—This, if properly executed, according to the directions, looks extremely handsome. Begin by casting on two loops, to form the point; knit them, and proceed as follows. First row, make a loop, knit the two original ones together, make a loop; you will then have three loops upon the pin; knit four additional rows in plain and pearled alternately, increasing a stitch at the beginning and end of each row, and then on the fifth row you will have eleven stitches. In the next row commence the pattern thus. Sixth row begin with six plain stitches, pearl one, knit six plain. Seventh row plain knitting. Eighth row, knit six plain, pearl one, knit two together, pearl one, knit two together, pearl one, knit six plain. Ninth row plain. Tenth, knit six plain, pass the material in front to make a stitch, knit two together, again make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, knit six plain. Eleventh row plain. Twelfth, knit six plain, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, knit six plain. Thirteenth row plain. Fourteenth, knit six plain, pearl three, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, knit two together, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, pearl three, knit six plain. Fifteenth row plain. Sixteenth, knit six plain, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl five, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, knit six plain. Seventeenth row plain. Eighteenth, six plain, pearl three, knit two together, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, knit five plain, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, knit two together, pearl three, knit six plain. Nineteenth row plain. Twentieth, knit six plain, knit two together, pearl three, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl four, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl four, make a stitch, knit two together, pearl three, knit two together, knit six plain. The twenty-first row is plain, and you then decrease as you increased, knitting the twenty-second row as the twentieth, and so proceed until you have two loops on the pin. The square is then complete.
Border for the Shawl.—Having finished the corner, pick up the twenty-one stitches on one side, and knit one row plain; the second row, knit two plain, three pearled, three plain, again pearl three, then three plain, pearl three, knit four plain. The third row knit plain; the fourth row, pearl one stitch, knit one, pearl one, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three together, knit one, pearl one, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl four, knit four plain. Fifth row plain. Sixth row knit one, pearl one, knit one, pearl one, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, knit one, pearl one, knit one, pearl one, knit two together, make a stitch, knit six plain. Seventh row plain. Eighth row, same as the sixth. Ninth plain. Tenth as the fourth. Eleventh plain. Twelfth as the second, repeat the first three rows, and re-commence the pattern. The shawl must be knitted on the same sized pins as the border and corner, and must have as many loops as there are stitches in the length of the border. The border and corner may be done in two colors, which must harmonize well with each other, and form a good contrast to the shawl itself.
CHAPTER XIV.
NETTING.
EXPLANATION OF STITCHES.
Netting is another employment, to which the attention of the fair has been directed from the remotest times. Specimens of Egyptian network, performed three thousand years since, are still in existence; and, from that time, the art, in connection with that of spinning flax, was there carried to its highest state of perfection. With these specimens, are preserved some of the needles anciently used in netting. They are to be found in one of the museums at Berlin. The Egyptian nets were made of flax, and were so fine and delicate, that according to Pliny, “they could pass through a small ring, and a single person could carry a sufficient number of them to surround a whole wood. Julius Lupus, while governor of Egypt, had some of these nets, each string of which consisted of one hundred and fifty threads.” But even this fineness was far exceeded by the thread of a linen corslet, presented by Amasis, king of Egypt, to the Rhodians, the threads of which, as we learn from the same authority, were each composed of three hundred and sixty-five fibres. Herodotus also mentions a corslet of a similar texture.
In connection with other elegant female accomplishments, netting has continued to claim the attention of the ladies of Europe, in every advanced state of civilization, and, in the present day, is cultivated with considerable success. Netting was a favorite employment of the late Queen Charlotte, during the latter years of her life.
Plain Netting.—Take the mesh in the left hand, (having previously made a long loop with twine, and fixed it to any convenient support,) between the two first fingers and the thumb. The netting needle must be threaded with the material, and fastened by a knot to the long loop before spoken of, and the mesh must be held up as close as possible to this knot under the twine. The silk is to be held in the right hand between the fore finger and the thumb and must be passed under and around the left hand, so that the material may be formed into a slack loop, passing over all the fingers, except the little one. In this position, the silk must be held between the upper side of the mesh and the left-hand thumb, and the needle must be passed back, round the pin or mesh, allowing the material to form a larger loop, so as to include the little finger. The needle will thus be brought round, in front of the mesh, and must pass under the first loop, between the mesh and the fingers, and thus through the loop called the foundation loop, and thence over that portion of the material which goes backward for the purpose of forming the second loop. The needle must be kept in its position, till the right hand is so brought round as to be able to pull it through, and then the needle being drawn out and held in the right hand, the worker must disengage all the fingers of the left except the last, which is to retain its hold of the second loop, which was formed by passing the material round it. By means of this hold, retained by the little finger, the material is to be drawn to the mesh, and the knot thus formed be drawn tight to the foundation. This process is to be repeated, until a sufficient number of stitches are formed as are necessary, according to the width of the net desired. As the mesh is filled, some of the loops must be suffered to drop off; and when the row is completed, it must be drawn out, and a row of loops will be found suspended from the foundation by their respective knots, and moving freely onwards. The work is then to be turned over, which will cause the ends of the rows to be reversed; and in netting a second row, it will be done as before from left to right. In commencing the second, and all the succeeding rows, the mesh must be so placed as to come up close to the bottom of the preceding row or loops, and the former process with the needle must be repeated. It will be needful, to have a sufficient quantity of material always wound on the needle, or otherwise it will not move freely round, as it is indispensible it should do.
Bead Stitch.—To execute this stitch properly, requires care, but it is very ornamental. Beads of all kinds, may be introduced. In order to net with beads, you must procure a long taper darning needle: the stitch is as follows; string a bead upon the thread or silk you net with: this bead is to be brought to the front of the mesh, and held there until the knot is made; at the back of the mesh, bring the needle and thread, passing the point through the bead which is upon the front of the mesh. The needle and thread are then to be drawn through it, by which means the bead will be brought quite up to the knot just made. By working the beads in this manner, they will be kept stationary upon the thread, and so remain in their places, and impart much beauty to the work.
Diamond Netting.—This kind of netting is easy of execution, and looks extremely pretty. It is done by making every other stitch a loop stitch, in order to effect which, the silk must be put twice round the mesh, instead of once, as in plain netting. Treble diamond netting is similar, only the process is rather more difficult in execution. After netting three rows plain, at the beginning, the first row is to be composed of one loop stitch, and three plain stitches, repeated until the row is finished: then in working the second row, commence with a plain stitch, then follow with a loop, then two plain stitches, and repeat as before. For the third row begin with one or two plain stitches, make a loop, then net a stitch plain, and repeat the two loops and the plain stitch to the end of the row. For the fourth row you net three stitches in plain netting, then make a loop stitch, and repeat as in previous rows. An attention to this arrangement, will soon enable the young student in net-work, to net in as many stitches as may seem desirable.
Diamond Netting, of Five Stitches.—Commence with a long loop, then net five loops plain, repeat to the end of the row, finishing with a long loop. Second row, begin with a plain loop, make a loose stitch to meet the short loop in the previous row, and withdraw the mesh before commencing the next loop, work four loops plain, and so proceed. Third row is commenced as the second: withdraw the mesh as before, and work three plain loops. Begin the fourth row with a plain stitch, work a long loop, then a loose stitch; withdraw the mesh, and work two plain stitches; again withdraw the mesh, work a plain stitch, and so proceed to the end. The fifth is begun with two plain stitches; then form a loose stitch, withdraw the mesh, work one plain loop, again withdraw the mesh, and finish with two plain stitches. The sixth row commences with three stitches plain, then make one loose stitch, and finish with two plain ones. For the seventh row, commence as in the last case; make a long loop, and finish with two plain stitches. The eighth row begins with three stitches in plain netting; withdraw the mesh, net one stitch plain, make a loose stitch, again withdraw the mesh, and finish the row with a plain stitch. In doing the ninth row net two stitches plain, withdraw the mesh, net two more plain stitches, make a loose stitch, again withdraw the mesh, and finish with a plain stitch. The tenth row is begun as the last, but instead of the loose stitch, net a plain one, then make the loose stitch, and withdraw the mesh. The mesh proper for this kind of netting is No. 18, and the silk called second-sized purse twist, is the best adapted for this kind of work.
Dotted Netting.—This is easily done. Cast on the number of loops you require, and proceed as follows. Begin with long loop, in which you next increase two stitches; repeat to the end of the row. None of the rows are at all varied; and you must carefully preserve its uniform appearance, as in that consists its principal beauty.
Shaded Silk Netting.—This is beautiful, when the shades blend well together. Of course, each row must be worked in one shade, and the next needful must be matched with the utmost care. It is not possible to give minute rules on such a subject: but, in this, as in other things, practice will insure success.
Grecian Netting.—This is beautiful, and should be worked with fine silk, and with two meshes, No. 9 and 18; one plain row is to be netted with the large mesh, and then in the next row employ the small one. The silk is twisted round the fingers as in plain netting, and the needle must pass through the finger loop into the first stitch, and thence into the second. Then let the second be drawn through the first, and the first through the second, finishing the stitch by releasing your fingers and pulling the material tight. The succeeding stitch is a small loop, that appears to cross the stitches twisted together. These three kinds of stitches form the pattern, and are to be repeated until the work is completed. Grecian netting may be employed for a variety of purposes, and you can, of course, vary both the material and the meshes as best accords with the design you are intending to accomplish.
French Ground Net.—You must have an even number of loops on the foundation, then proceed. First row, plain stitches and long loops, alternately; second row plain; make a loose stitch, and repeat. Begin the fourth with a loose stitch, net one plain, repeat to the end; commence the fifth row by netting one plain loop, make a long loop, and the little loop as in the third row; in coming after the last long loop, the little loop must be exchanged for a plain stitch.
Another kind of Honeycomb Netting.—Use a mesh No. 17, and set on an even number of stitches. Net the first row plain, having the silk round the mesh twice. For the second row you put the silk once round the mesh and net the second loop, having previously half twisted it. Then net the first loop plain, net the fourth as the second, again net a stitch plain, and thus proceed with plain and half-twisted stitches, alternately. The third row is the same as the first, and the fourth as the second. These kinds of netting are very pretty for purses, bags, &c., and may be done in different colors if the purse is worked in four or five rows of plain, and the same number of honeycomb netting.
Honeycomb Netting.—You are to make an even number of loops, putting the silk twice round a No. 18 mesh, for the second row net with the silk once round the mesh, and put the first stitch through the second at the back, and net it; then the second stitch is pulled through the middle of the first and netted: you do the same with each two of the other stitches, and must be careful not to burst them. For the third row, the silk is put twice round the mesh, and the netting is plain. You proceed thus in alternate rows until the work is done.
Honeycomb Netting, with two Meshes.—The meshes proper are No. 9 and 16. Cast on an even number of stitches, and net the first row plain, with the No. 9 mesh. With mesh No. 16 net the second row, working the second stitch first and the first second, and so proceed netting the fourth stitch, and then the third, and so on to the end. Work the third row with No. 9 as before, and the fourth row as the second, only netting the first loop plain, and then taking, first the third, and then the second, and so on to the end, finishing with a loop in plain netting. The next row is done plain with No. 9, the next with No. 16, exactly as the first twisted row. The odd stitch netted plain, only occurs at the commencement of each alternate row of netting done with No. 16. This kind of netting is proper for a veil.
Leaf Netting.—This is pretty when executed properly. You should work with cotton, and No. 14 mesh. Five loops are required for each pattern. Commence the first row by netting two plain loops for the edge, then net three plain, in the next loop increase four, and repeat this operation to the end of the row; finish with two plain loops. Begin the second row as before, and collect all the loops increased in each of the twice four loops formed in the last row, into one; then net four loops plain; repeat this to the end of the row, and net two plain as before. The third row is plain netting. The fourth row has two loops netted plain, then two more plain; you then increase four on each of the next two loops, net one plain, and repeat the operation to the end of the row; finish by netting two stitches plain. Fifth row, commence as before, net one plain loop, collect the increased loops as the second row, net three plain, and so repeat; net two plain to finish the row. The next row is netted plain. Repeat these rows as often as your work requires it to be done.
Net with Points.—This is done by making a foundation of, say, ninety stitches. Net on this foundation with any color you please. Net fifty stitches and return back again, proceed as before, only decreasing ten stitches, and so go on, until the required point is gained. Two colors are required.
Maltese Netting, in Spots.—This is neat and elegant: it is done as follows. The first two rows are netted plain: you commence the third row by netting seven stitches; the silk is then to be passed round the mesh, and the needle brought under the knot in the second row, but without netting it; that is between the stitch you last netted and the one you are about to net. A loop is then made, which is not to be netted separately, as that would increase a stitch in the next row; but it is to be taken up with the last of the seven stitches previously netted. If you desire the spots to appear very distinct and prominent, let the silk pass twice round the mesh, and afterwards through the loop, and repeat the operation to the end. You may do this spotting, either as it appears in the pattern, or in almost any form you please.
Plain Open Netting.—This is pretty, and easy of execution. The operation is performed by netting three rows plain, then a row of loop stitches, then three rows plain, and a row of loops as before. You may net to any length you please. The direction here given is all that is necessary, and if duly attended to will enable any young lady to attain proficiency.
Round Netting.—You commence making the loops, as in common netting, by twisting the silk round the fingers, then pass the needle and the silk through the finger-loop, and bring it up on the back side of the mesh, between it and the fore finger; the fingers and loop are still to be kept on them as before; the middle is then to be reversed, and brought down through the first loop, (on the foundation,) and taking a slanting direction over the mesh. Having drawn it entirely through, you withdraw your finger from the loop, as in ordinary netting. You every succeeding loop in the same way.
CHAPTER XV.
NETTING.
EXAMPLES IN NETTING.
A Purse, with China Silk.—Make as many stitches on the foundation as you please. Net three rows with plain colors, then five with China silk. Repeat.
A Seam Purse, with Beads.—You will need four skeins of fine silk, and a mesh, No. 8. On a foundation of one hundred stitches, net one plain row. Then in the next row, net a plain and a bead stitch successively. Net the third row plain, and begin the next with a bead stitch. Proceed thus till the purse is completed.
A Netted Bag, with Ring.—On a foundation of sixty stitches, net the bag to half the length required; then net in a gilt ring, and finish the bag. Draw it up with ribbon, and place a gilded or silk tassel at the bottom. You will require coarse netting silk, and a No. 16 mesh. You may use union cord, or gilt twist, if you prefer it.
Dice Pattern Purse.—This is done in two colors, highly contrasted. You must have two skeins of second sized silk, and a No. 10 mesh. On a foundation of ninety-eight stitches, net seven with the darkest color. You net seven rows. Then introduce the lighter silk, by joining it to the seventh stitch of the first row of the dark color, and net seven rows upon the succeeding seven stitches of the foundation. You must be careful to loop in the last dark stitch on each row: repeat this process until the purse is of the length you require; of course reversing the squares. In cutting off the silk, you must leave sufficient to make a weaver’s knot, with which is to be fastened to the succeeding color.
Honeycomb Mittens.—You commence by casting on fifty stitches; the first four rows are to netted plain: after which, you net one row with the silk, twice round the mesh; again net two rows with the silk round the mesh once: you then commence netting rounds, and net rows as before. The first row is to be netted with the silk twice round the mesh, the second is in honey-comb pattern; the third round is executed as the first, and the fourth as the second; for the fifth round you net eleven stitches with the silk, round the mesh, as in the first row, and make two increased stitches in the twelfth loop; in the next row, you are to net five stitches and increase two, netting the whole, as in the first row; net the seventh like the second, and let this be repeated for the four succeeding rounds, a plain and a pattern round alternately; in the next round, which is plain, pass the silk twice round the mesh, and net seven stitches; increase two stitches in the eighth round and net seventeen in plain and pattern, alternate rounds; in the eighteenth increase two, and net five rounds; again increase two, and net five; and on each side again increase two; net three rounds after the last increase, continuing to net till you arrive at the stitch over the last stitch you increased, and net it to the one corresponding to it on the other side of the thumb; if it does not fit as it ought to do, you must decrease, until that object is secured; you are to finish the thumb, by netting a round with the silk, put twice round the mesh, and two rounds in plain netting; the silk is to be fastened to the side of the thumb, in order to finish the hand: and you are to net plain and pattern rounds successively. When the mitten is nearly the length you wish, finish in the same manner you did the thumb, using double silk.
Netted Cuffs.—The materials are German wool and French floss silk, and the work is executed with a mesh, No. 11, and a small steel one, No. 15. You commence on a foundation of fifty-four loops; and in order to form the right side, you net one row of wool with the large mesh, and three rows of silk with the small one, alternately, till you have netted twenty four rows. Then you form the wrong side, by netting one row of wool with the larger mesh, and two rows of the same material with the small one. You will require nine rows netted with the wide mesh, with two narrow rows between each. Then net one wide row with wool, having in each loop three stitches; above this, knit one narrow row of silk, and do the same at the other end. You have only to double the cuffs, turning the plain side inmost, and the rows of wool and silk will form a kind of border and finish to the whole.
Netted Cuff with Silk and Wool.—On a foundation of ninety-six stitches, and with a No. 11 mesh, net one row plain in floss silk. Second row the same. Then with an ivory mesh of half an inch in width, net one row in German wool. The fourth row is to be done two stitches in one, with wool, using a small mesh. Then for the inside half of the cuff, net fourteen rows with the large and small meshes, successively. These to be done in silk and wool alternately. The next three rows to be netted in dark wool. Then with the small mesh net two rows in silk, the same color as at the commencement, alternately, with seven rows of wool, in proper shades, and finish with an edge to correspond with the beginning.
Netted Fringe.—Use a mesh No. 18, and net the required length, dropping off the stitches on the left. Net the next row the same. Then with a flat mesh, the width of the fringe, placing the grooved edge downward, net one row. These latter loops are to be cut, and either left as they are, or knitted two and two together, as the taste of the worker may dictate.
Netted Opera Cap.—Work with one mesh, half an inch wide; and another, smaller, of steel; and begin on a foundation of seventy-four stitches. You must procure in double German wool, two colors that contrast well: commence with the darkest shade, and net with the wide mesh one row; the second is to be netted with the narrow one, and so on alternately: the sixth and seventh are both worked with the narrow mesh: then net five more rows with the wide and narrow meshes alternately: this done, you commence with the other color, and net one row, having three stitches on each loop of the row preceding: you now introduce silk of the same color as that of the wool first used, and net one row with the narrow mesh; in that row all the stitches of the last row, netted in wool, must be taken up separately; the foundation is now to be removed, and rows of the lighter colored wool and silk, are to be netted to correspond. Net another piece of work in exactly the same manner as the former, and taking one of the pieces, fold it in the middle, and net one row with the narrow mesh in the centre row of knots; in the piece thus doubled, proceed to net a row with the wide mesh, then two with the narrow one, and again one with the wide mesh. The other piece is then to be folded in the same manner, and united to the former one by netting a row, taking up as before the centre row of knots. This makes the front of the cap appear in four pieces. At the back, in the centre row of knots, net a row with the narrow mesh, to keep it on an even fold. You draw up the cap at the end, and put the strings on. This completes it.
Netted Scollop Edging.—You work this with a flat mesh, and set on as many stitches as you intend to have scollops. The flat mesh should be No. 3; and you will also require two round ones, one No. 14 and the other No. 18. Begin the work as follows. Net the first row with the flat mesh, and increase eighteen stitches into each of the loops on the foundation. For the second row, use the mesh No. 14, and net a plain stitch into each loop. Then, with the mesh No. 18, net the third row in long loops, by passing the material twice round the mesh; you are to increase two stitches in the same loop, and so continue to the end of the row. In the fourth row you use the mesh No. 14 and leaving all the increased stitches without netting them, net the long loops plain. The fifth and sixth rows are netted plain with the mesh No. 14, which finishes the scollop.
Plain Netted Gentleman’s Purse.—Of coarse netting silk, you will require five skeins, and a mesh, No. 13. You must have a foundation of eighty stitches on which to commence, and you net to the length of ten inches. Net up the sides and damp it slightly, after which it is put upon a purse stretcher, where it is to be left for a few hours, then take it off and trim it as you please.
A Lady’s Purse.—Net in the same manner seventy stitches on the foundation, and nine inches in length is sufficient. Employ a mesh No. 10, and fine netting silk. Two colors may be used, netting five rows with one, and four with the other.
Plain Netted Mittens.—Begin on forty-eight stitches as a foundation, and net four rows plain; then form the loops, for the ribbon, with a mesh double the size of that you work with. Then five rows more are to be netted plain; and in the next you must join both ends, and net one plain round, taking care in the twelfth stitch to increase. Again net round, and increase as before. Net the remaining stitches. You must then net sixteen rounds, increasing two stitches, to form the thumb, in the same place as the other increased stitches, every other round. Join the thumb stitches, and net seven rounds, which is the length of the thumb, decreasing a stitch or two in every round. With the larger mesh you are to net two stitches in every loop, and then net one round, taking the two together. Net two or three rounds with a finer mesh: this finishes the thumb. Net as many rounds as are wanted for the hand, and finish as before. Run in the ribbon, and edge with lace. You must have a No. 12 mesh, and five skeins of silk.
A Plain Scollop.—You must cast on one stitch for each scollop: this is the first row. For the second, use a flat mesh No. 1, and increase twenty stitches in each loop. Net the third with a round mesh No. 14, netting all the increased loops plain. The two next rows are netted plain, with the same mesh, which finishes the pattern.
Cap Border Scollop.—You commence with one stitch for each scollop, as in last pattern. For the second row, use the flat mesh No. 1, and increase in each loop twelve stitches. Net the third round with the round mesh No. 15, and be careful to net the increased stitches plain. The last row is netted plain, with the same mesh as the preceding one. The cotton used in the netting of these scollops, should be about the size of what is called third-sized purse twist.
Net Cravat.—This is netted with German wool, and with a mesh No. 9. Having cast on 400 stitches, in the color you intend first to use, net twenty-three rows in plain netting. Then introduce the other color, or white; and again, in the same manner, net twenty-three rows. Proceed thus, till you have three stripes of each color: then net the two sides together, and draw up the ends. You may add tassels, if you choose.
A Net Scarf.—This is to be worked with two flat needles, No. 8 and No. 2, and in that kind of silk called dockers. You are to commence, by casting on 210 stitches, and netting four rows with the smaller mesh, and thirty or thirty-two with the larger one. These repeated, six times, completes the scarf. You must add the four narrow rows, which will complete the edge. The scarf is to be drawn up at each end, and have tassels attached.
A Long Purse, in Points.—Upon your foundation loops, put sixty stitches in one of the colors you intend to use, and return on them. Then, in the next row, put on forty stitches, the next forty, and so on to ten, always returning on the number last put on, and leaving the ten unnetted. You then, with another needle, introduce your other color, and put on ten stitches upon the foundation loops, commencing ten loops from the sixty of the first color. When you have reached the last of the sixty, which you will do when you have put on the ten, you must draw the mesh out, and pass the needle with the second color, through the concluding stitch of the first, working back upon the second color the ten stitches last introduced. The rest of the row is increased ten; and you must then decrease, as you did with the first color. One pattern is then complete; and you re-commence and proceed as before.
CHAPTER XVI.
CROCHET.
STITCHES IN CROCHET.
Crochet has been long known, but it has only become a favorite with the fair votaries of the needle, during the last few years. It is very difficult to describe, though easy of execution, and can be applied to a variety of useful and ornamental purposes. It is most frequently adopted in working shawls, table covers, pillows, mats, slippers, carriage mats, and a great variety of other things of elegance and utility. Silk, cotton, and wool, are employed, and the work is so easy, that a moderate share of attention to details, will make an expert workman.
Stitches.—These are called plain single crochet, plain double crochet, plain stitch open crochet, and open crochet, with a variety of stitches. It is not easy to describe the manner of working crochet stitch, though it is easy of execution: perhaps the following will be found tolerably correct. Take a skein of wool, and having wound it, make a loop at one end, like the first link in a chain; through this draw another, and so on, until the chain is of the length required. Each must be made rather tight as it is drawn through its preceding loop. This forms the foundation, and the young worker may then proceed with the article she intends to make. She must pass the needle through the last loop of the foundation, and catching the silk or other material from behind, draw it through and so proceed with every succeeding loop of the foundation, until the row is completed. Having thus formed the first row, she must proceed as before to form a second, and so on from right to left, and from left to right, until she has all the rows required. This is the most effectual way we know of for the learner to pursue and she will find that her work is the same on both sides, producing raised and depressed rows in alternate succession. In working she must not generally work backward and forward, but must finish each row separately.
Plain Crochet.—Make only one loop in each stitch. In making common purses in crochet, this is the stitch generally employed.
Plain Double Crochet.—Keep two loops on the needle before finishing the stitch. This stitch is more generally in use than any of the others described.
Plain Stitch Open Crochet.—This stitch is done in the following manner. To the last link of the foundation chain, crochet five stitches, which must be again crocheted in the fifth stitch of the chain. This is to be repeated to the foundation. The rest of the rows are to be done in the same way, attaching every fifth stitch to the centre one of each loop in the row preceding. This looks extremely well for purses, and it can be varied by employing two or more colors as taste or fancy may direct.
Open Crochet.—This stitch is difficult to describe; an attention to the following rules will, we hope, enable the reader to understand it. First make a chain of the length required for the foundation; then work one stitch plain, and bring the material round the needle, which must be passed through the first loop of the chain, through which bring the material, and you will thus have three stitches on the needle. Through the two first of these the material must be drawn, which will leave two; through these the material must be again drawn, and that will leave one, through which you are to make one stitch plain, as at the commencement. You then put the material over the needle, and through the fourth link of the chain, and proceed as before. You will thus have one plain stitch between each two double ones, which will leave an open space.
Double Open Crochet.—This is a similar stitch, only the single stitch is omitted, and the two long stitches are made together, by passing the needle through the next loop without making a stitch. Thus you will have two long stitches and one open stitch in succession.
Treble Open Crochet.—This is exactly like the last, only making three long stitches, instead of two, before every plain stitch. It looks neat and elegant, and may have beads introduced, which produce a charming effect. The following directions will enable the novice to work with beads with freedom and accuracy. Thread the beads on a strong silk, and pass one on to the middle stitch of each of the three long ones.
This will, of course, place a bead in the centre of each square. Beads of various colors may be introduced, so as to form a diamond. A gold or polished steel one should form the centre of each diamond.
Double Stitch Crochet.—To work this you have only to take both meshes of the chain, instead of one, as in common crochet.
Plain Stitch Elastic Crochet.—Work backward and forwards, first taking one mesh of the chain, and then the other. The upper mesh must be taken first.
Bead Stitch.—If you wish to work with beads, you must thread all you intend to use, before you begin to work. Then when you wish to insert a bead, no matter what the pattern is you are executing, you have only to pass a bead down to the last stitch you have worked, and to fasten it on by working the stitch as usual; but this will leave it on the wrong side; to prevent which, you must bring the crocheting thread to the front, having it on the fore finger of the left hand: by thus keeping the bead in front, and inserting the needle from the back of the stitch you are about to work, you can draw the thread through the back, and make the finishing loop in the common way: you will then find that the bead is on the right side.
Edge Stitch.—To work this stitch you are to draw a loop through the first stitch on the row, or on the round, if you work in rounds, then draw a second loop through the one last made. Thus the edge stitch is formed. It is of importance to attend to the regular working of this stitch, because if it is not done, you will lose in each row a stitch. On a round, it is not necessary to work the edge stitch; but when the work has to be turned to work round the contrary way, the edge stitch is indispensible.
A Raised Stitch.—Make this by passing the needle through, both meshes of the chain, and working two stitches instead of one, in the same space or hole.
To increase or decrease a Stitch.—In the former case, make two stitches in the mesh; and in the latter, take two stitches together as one, or miss one.
True Stitch.—This means to keep the stitches exactly over each other, when working in different colors, so as to conceal the half stitch. This must be done with care: and the more attention is paid to it, the more beautiful will the work appear.
To fasten on or off.—The former is done by laying the two ends of the material contrary wise, and working a few stitches with both. The latter process is performed by drawing the material through the last stitch, which must be fastened at the back.
A Dividing Line.—The most general form is that of working two stitches up and down alternately, between the stripes in the groundings; but it can be varied according to taste.
What is called making a stitch, at the beginning and end of a row, means making one stitch of a chain before the first and after the last, which new stitches are to be crocheted in the succeeding row.
To Carry on a Thread in Double Crochet.—It is a very common thing to work a pattern in crochet, in more than one color; when this is the case, it is necessary that the colors, not required, should be so managed, as not to make loops, or stitches, at the back. To accomplish this, they must be worked in the following manner. Let the threads, that are not required, be laid along the fore finger of the left hand; and the crochet needle must be inserted in the usual manner, into the stitch; you are to let it go below the threads you are carrying on, and the thread with which you are working is to be drawn at the back, through the stitch, into which you inserted the needle or hook. Make the finishing loop as usual, which you carry over the threads, and pull through the two loops you have upon the needle. Thus you will make one stitch, and the process is to be repeated as often as your work requires it.
Joining the Threads.—In order that threads may be united neatly and properly, observe the following directions. Do not work up the thread quite to the end, but leave a small portion; then, on the fore finger of the left hand, by the end of the thread you are about to commence working with, the end to be toward the tip of the finger, the ball will of course be toward the arm; work over it for about six stitches, proceeding as you do in carrying over the threads; then by the thread you worked with, but on the same finger, and continue with the thread you have last fastened on, and work over it, in the same manner, for about six stitches. The ends are then to be cut, and you work on as usual, with the thread just joined. This is the best method we know, of making the work appear neat, and, at the same time, of securing the required degree of fineness.
To Increase a Stitch in Crochet.—The process by which this is done, is as follows. First, make the stitch as usual, then work it again from the hinder or back part of the stitch. This prevents a hole, which would otherwise occur.
To take in a Stitch.—To do this, two stitches are taken on the needle at the same time, and you work them off as one.
We have given the fullest explanation of the various stitches in crochet, that our limited space will allow; and we hope that the directions are so plain that no one will be at a loss to comprehend their meaning. But we cannot promise any votary of this delightful employment, even tolerable success, unless she will assiduously apply her own mind to the various directions. “No one can become an expert needlewoman, who does not think, and think deeply, too.”
CHAPTER XVII.
CROCHET.
EXAMPLES IN CROCHET.
Crochet Edging, for Collars, &c.—Ascertain the length you will require, and cast on the necessary number of chain stitches; you must use a steel hook No. 19. You will find your labor facilitated by sewing a piece of tape at the beginning and the end of the foundation-row of chain stitch. If the tops be an inch wide, it will form a good beginning and termination. The foundation of chain stitch forms the first row; the second is worked thus; the hook is inserted through the first loop of the foundation; (this will be on the tape,) through which, a loop is to be brought in the usual manner; directly above this, a second loop is worked, which forms the beginning. You now leave the tape, and work two chain stitches; after which, you throw a stitch on the needle, by casting the material over it. Then, taking the third loop on the foundation, counting from the one last worked, you insert the hook, passing two loops without working them, and catching the thread from behind, pull it through. Thus, you will have on the needle three loops; and you must now throw a stitch on the hook, which is, in like manner, to be pulled through the first loop, near the point. By this, you will still have three loops on the hook. Again, throw on a stitch as before, which draw through the two first loops on the end of the hook; then throw on another stitch, which must be pulled through the two loops remaining on the hook. You will then have only one loop upon the needle; and thus one stitch is completed. Make two chain stitches, as before, and then perform another stitch; and so proceed, as in the former row, but instead of inserting the hook in the third loop, as before, pass it into the first open portion of the work, and work the stitch over the two chain stitches of the second row, as follows. The needle being inserted into the open space, you are to catch the material in from behind, and draw it through, by which you will have three loops on the hook: then throw a loop on as before, and let it be drawn through the first loop, on the point of the hook. Another loop is next to be thrown in, and drawn through the two loops nearest the hook, on which you will now have two loops. You thus complete the stitch, as in the previous row, and so proceed to the end. The next row is the same in all respects; and the fifth is to form a Vandyke edge: it is worked in the following manner: the needle is inserted into the open space, and work a double tambour stitch round the chain stitches of the fourth row; then seven chain stitches are to be made and fastened to the two chain stitches of the last row, in the same manner as before. Thus one scollop or vandyke is completed, and you work all the others in the same way.
Petticoat Crochet Edging.—Work this in the following manner. First row like the last pattern. The second like the second of the last; and finish with the fifth row of the same pattern. Persian cotton, No. 6, is the best material; and you work with a long steel crochet needle, having an ivory screw handle.
Crochet Edging, Handkerchiefs.—This is done in three rows, worked as the first, second, third, and fifth rows of crochet edging, for collars. The material is Persian thread, No. 12; and you work with a fine steel crochet needle, with a screw handle.
Insertion, or Crochet Beading.—You work this, if narrow, as first and second rows of the first pattern; if you have it wider, work it as the third row. It may be either worked with No. 8 or No. 12 cotton, and looks neat and handsome.
The following remarks on crochet should be carefully attended to. It is necessary to work this kind of work, rather loose than otherwise, as it is liable to cut, if done over tight. The size of the stitch depends, of course, upon that of the needle; and, therefore, care should be taken, to have them gauged. If a needle will go into the slit, opposite No. 4, but not into No. 5, then it is a No. 4 needle.
Sofa Pillow.—Work in six threads fleecy, and with a good sized crochet needle; work as follows. For the first stripe, commence with two rows of the same color; the three next rows, in different shades, of a color that will contrast well with that of the two first; the sixth row must be of a different color, or it may be white. The next five rows are to correspond, reversing the colors and shades. The second stripe is composed of seven rows: the first, three distinct shades of the same color; the middle one, a contrast; and the other three, the same shades as the first, but reversed as before. The third stripe is the same, but, of course, the colors are different. A white row in the middle of each stripe, is, in our opinion, the best. The fourth stripe is a repetition of the first, omitting the color in the first two rows, the fifth of the second, and the sixth of the third. The last stripe is to correspond exactly with the first.
Turkish Pattern, for a Table Cover.—Use a steel needle, and six threads fleecy. Form the dividing line of two shades of the same color, say claret, and have four stripes, namely, white, gold color, blue, and scarlet. Then, on the white stripe, work the pattern in two greens, two scarlets, two blues, a brown, and a yellow. On the gold color, in two blues and one claret, white, lilac, and green. On the blue, in two scarlets, two greens, one drab, white, brown, and orange. And on the scarlet, one green, one white, two blues, a claret, and a bright yellow. We have merely given the colors in the above, as a specimen, and to assist the youthful artist in the formation of habits of arrangement. She can, of course, adopt any colors and shades she pleases; and the more she employs her own thought and judgment, the more original will her work appear.
A Plain Crochet Bag, in Silk.—Begin at the top with a chain, of one hundred and fifty stitches. The material to work with, may be any kind of silk that is proper for the purpose, and of any color that may be deemed desirable. On this foundation, a plain row is to be worked, and then a row in two colors, in two stitches of each alternately. The second color is employed to form the ground of the pattern. Work one plain row, and then work large stars, in a color to contrast with the plain ground. Between the large stars, work small ones, in a different color. One row of plain ground is to be crocheted on each side of the pattern; and before commencing the second stripe, repeat the row of two colors in two stitches of each. The ground of the next stripe is to contrast highly with that of the former one. The larger stars should also be well contrasted; but, all in the same stripe, must be of the same color; all the small stars should be alike. The stripes are to be repeated successively, until the bag is completed.
A Greek Cap, in coarse Chenille.—With a chain of six or eight stitches, begin at the top, and having united the ends, work round and round, in rows, until it is eight inches across. You must increase your stitches, in each row, so as to preserve the work flat. Work the stitches in open crochet, and between every two rows, it will be best to introduce a few plain lines, in black and gold. This cap is extremely elegant.
A Crochet Neck Chain.—Commence with fine plain stitches; then put the needle through the back of the second, and make one stitch plain. By twisting the chain, after every stitch, you will find that one stitch appears to cross; that stitch is the one to be next taken, and crocheted.
A Plain Crochet Purse.—This purse is made with middle-sized netting silk, and is strong and durable. A chain is to be made of one hundred and forty stitches, of any color you prefer, on which, you are to crochet three rows plain in the same color. Then, five rows, in a color making a good contrast. Repeat these stripes as many times as are requisite, and crochet up the sides. Draw up the ends, and trim the purse.
We deem it unnecessary to add more examples in crochet, as without engravings, they would not be understood. This kind of work is capable of being applied to an almost indefinite number of purposes; but in almost all cases, though easy of execution, the patterns are not easy to be described in writing. We have, however, done all that is required, to afford an insight into this kind of needlework; and have shewn that for purses, bags, caps, neck chains, &c., it can be readily brought into requisition. Much care and judgment are required in the arrangement of colors, as on this, almost the whole beauty of the work depends.
CHAPTER XVIII.
TATTING.
EXPLANATION OF STITCHES.
Tatting Open Stitch.—Take your tatting needle, and, having threaded it with the appropriate material make a knot at the end. In order to make the loops, put the knot just made on the fore finger of the left hand, and form also a loop round the second, third and fourth fingers, extending them for that purpose. These loops are made by carrying the thread round the back of them, bringing it to the fore finger again, so as to pass over the knot. In this position they must be held tightly down by the pressure of the thumb. You will observe that the thumb and fore finger are never to be moved while you form the scollop, but you are to bring the needle and thread toward you in a straight direction from the fore finger and thumb, between the second and third fingers: the needle is then to be inserted from behind the finger loop, up through the middle, between the thread which is on the needle, and the thread round the fingers. You must be careful to have the thread (on the needle) between you and the needle, after you have drawn it through. From the right hand to the left the needle must be extended as tight as possible, leaving loose the loop which is round the finger as you make the stitch with the loop, and not with that portion of the thread which is next the needle. You are to withdraw the second finger, and allow the loop round the fingers to form round the thread. The fingers are then to be again inserted, and form the stitch with the second finger by drawing it up to its proper place, close to the thumb. This will finish the stitch. For the next, cast the thread over the back part of the hand, instead of bringing it to you as in the former stitch, and let the needle be inserted down through the finger loop, between the first and second fingers; then draw it up through between the two threads over the back part of the fingers, and form the stitch with the second one, as in the previous stitch. You work the third stitch the same as the first, only longer, that it may form a long loop. Repeat the second stitch, then the long loop; and thus proceed until you have seven loops: after this, the thread is to be drawn up, so as to form the scollop.
Star Tatting.—The material for this kind of work is bobbin, such as is generally used for children’s caps. You have only to work six scollops and draw them up close, so as to form a star. When made with precision and regularity, they present a neat appearance. Star tatting is well adapted for trimmings to a great many articles of apparel and ornament.
Common Tatting Edging.—Make the loops, and work the first stitch as in the first pattern; then work twenty stitches the same way to form the scollop. When it is finished, you must draw up the thread tight, and then commence another. If it has been properly done, the scollop will draw freely.
CHAPTER XIX.
CONCLUDING REMARKS.
In bringing the Ladies’ Work-Table Book to a close, we cannot persuade ourselves to dismiss the subject, without a word or two to our fair friends, as to the use, necessary to be made, of all the useful or ornamental accomplishments their circumstances and situations may enable them to acquire. We should never, for one moment, suffer the utile to be absent from our thoughts: she who has no definite aim in what she does, can never have any good ground of hope, that, in her progress through life, she can attain to excellence.
These remarks apply principally to that large class, who are dependent upon exertion of some kind, for the means of comfort and respectability, in their respective stations. But, as those ladies, whose circumstances render a practical acquaintance with the arts here treated of, a matter of indifference, a knowledge of them is, by no means, unnecessary. In many ways indeed, a lady, blessed with affluence, may render an acquaintance with the details of needlework extensively useful.
It is often the case that young persons are engaged in families, whose education has been, from some cause or other, lamentably neglected. In those cases, the lady who feels her obligations, and is actuated by a true Christian spirit, will consider herself as standing in the place of a mother to her humble dependents; and, under a deep sense of her high responsibilities, will endeavor to improve, and fit them, by suitable and kindly-imparted instructions, for the proper discharge of the duties of that station, which it may be presumed they will in after days be called upon to fill. In this case, how useful will the kind and careful mistress find a knowledge of that art, which teaches the proper method of making those articles of dress which are so essential to every family who, however humble, are desirous of securing the respect of the wise and the good, by judicious economy, and a neat and respectable appearance.
Those ladies who are in the habit of devoting a portion of their time to the superintendence of our female charity schools, will also find such knowledge extremely beneficial. To those who are disposed to follow the example of the holy Dorcas, in providing garments for the deserving and destitute poor, an acquaintance with plain needlework is indispensible; and indeed, it will, in every walk of life, be found useful to her who is, by the animating love of the Lord Jesus, disposed
“To seek the wretched out,
And court the offices of soft humanity.”
Another advantage may also be gained, by a manifestation of the kindly solicitude for the improvement of domestics, here pointed out. In cases where the secular tuition of young persons has been neglected, it will be generally found that their religious and moral training has been equally uncared for. Let the Christian lady evince a real desire to improve the temporal condition of those beneath her influence, and she will soon find that the best affections of the heart are opened to the reception of instructions of a higher and still more important character. Hard indeed must be that heart which can resist the influence of genuine kindness exercised in a friendly Christian spirit. We once had the pleasure of seeing a young servant baptized in the faith of Christ, while those in whose service she was, and two others, highly respectable persons, answered for her at the font. This beautiful meeting together of the rich and the poor, took place in one of the most splendid parish churches in England, and left on our minds an impression which will never be effaced.
In the foregoing pages we have endeavored to lay before the young votary of the needle, such instructions as we hope will be found sufficiently clear to enable her to produce many a delightful specimen of her assiduity, taste, and judgment. We have sought to be concise, without being obscure; and to give plain directions, without making our readers mere imitators, or copyists. One fault which is to be found in all the books on these subjects, which we have seen, we have carefully avoided; that is, the giving a list of the various colours to be employed in the fabrication of each example given. Nothing can be more absurd, and mischievous than this. The young work-woman can only exercise her judgment, to any extent, in this department of her labors. The various stitches she must form according to the prescribed rule; because, in most instances, they can be performed in no other manner; but in the choice of materials, and colors, she should have free scope: here judgment, taste, and fancy, should range untrammelled by rules and forms; and yet this is rarely done, because the lady is taught to rely upon her patterns, and scarcely ever to consult her own sense of beauty or propriety. We see the effect of this, in the sameness, and monotonous appearance of almost all kinds of fancy-work: and we have endeavored to do our best, to introduce a more correct taste and principle into this department of the elegant arts, in which females are engaged. We know that much native genius exists among our fair countrywomen; and we wish to see it expand, as freely as the refreshing breeze, that sweeps over our native hills.
We have before alluded to the various and interesting uses to which the needle can be applied, and the high moral ends it is so well calculated to promote: and if such be its importance, then it will be readily admitted by all, that he who has made the most improvements, and produced the most finished specimens of this all-important instrument, has conferred a real benefit upon his race.
We have a higher end in view, than promoting the acquisition of accomplishments, however elegant or pleasing. We wish to direct the minds of those whom we are thus endeavoring to interest and instruct, to the immortal beauties of moral excellence. These works may be made conducive, in a high degree, to the development of family affection, and the promotion, to a vast extent, of the purposes of genuine charity, benevolence, and friendship. But there is yet a higher kind of use, to which we would apply them. We would have the young lady, who is becoming expert and clever at her needle to reflect, as the beautiful fabric grows beneath her forming hand, that her work, and the power and skill to plan and execute it, is an emanation of the Immortal Mind; of that Mind, whose creative powers are a faint, but legible transcript of the Omnipotent Wisdom of the Deity. This thought gives a permanency to what would, in any other light be only transitory as the summer cloud. It is Omnipotent Wisdom and Power, which has contrived and executed all the beautiful wonders of creation; and that Wisdom and Power were called into activity by Omnipotent Love. We wish to impress this sublime truth upon the mind of our young readers, because we wish them to place their Heavenly Father before them—as their pattern and example—in all that they take in hand; and to remember that, as He formed the universe by Wisdom, from Love—so all their actions and elegant contrivances should be the result of judgment, guided by affection—that they may thus become like their Father, who is in Heaven.
Indeed, it is only when accomplishments are rendered subservient to the development of moral goodness, that they may become pursuits at all worthy of an accountable being. We were not sent into this world to flutter through life, like the gaudy butterfly, only to be seen and admired. We were designed to be useful to our fellow beings; and to make all our powers and capabilities, in some way or other conducive to the happiness and welfare of our co-journeyers on the path of time. To this end, we wish our fair countrywomen to devote their best attention; and, in its attainment, to exert every energy which they possess. We wish them to make all the knowledge which they may acquire subserve some noble purpose; which will outlive the present hour. But to do this, the well-spring of the purest affections must be opened in the soul; and the elegant productions of taste and genius become vitalized, and animated, by the spirit of love. Thus, and thus only, can the occupations of a leisure hour be converted into efficient ministers of good; and such they will assuredly be found, if practised from right motives, and placed in due subordination to the right exercise of more important duties. The young votaress of the needle, of drawing, or of music, should ever bear in mind, that the time employed in those pursuits, will be accounted lost or improved, by the impartial Judge of all—just in proportion as they have been made to serve the purposes of selfish gratification, or to minister to the development of an elevated moral character—generous and warm affections—and the cultivation of those virtues, which, as essentials of the Christian character, shall outlive the ravages of time, and qualify the soul for all the beatitudes of a coming eternity.
In all then that the young lady aims to learn, or to accomplish, let her place a high and moral standard before her, and resolve to render every transaction of her life conducive to her preparation for a higher state of being. Our various faculties and powers were not given us to be wasted, but to be used to the honor of our Creator—the comfort and welfare of those around us—and, as a consequence of our faithful discharge of our several obligations, conducive, in an eminent degree, to our happiness. No mistake can be more fatal, than an idea that, for what we call trifles, we shall have no account to render. What we call trifles, may be, in their consequence, both to ourselves and others, the most important acts of our lives. It is not by great events that our characters are formed; but by the neglect or performance of our duties in that state of life, into which the Wisdom of our Heavenly Father has seen fit to call us. To elevate the sufferings, soothe the sorrows, increase the comforts, and enhance the joys of all around us, should be the highest aim of a laudable ambition—and every endeavor should be most assiduously devoted to the accomplishment of these important ends. It is, in fact, only when we thus employ our various talents and capabilities, that they are really useful, in any other case, they are only ministers to our personal pride, and selfish gratification, instead of becoming links in that golden chain, by which the faithful performance of appointed duties is elevated to the possession of “a crown of righteousness, that fadeth not away.”
Let, then, the youthful female, as she plies her needle, or exercises her judgment or ingenuity, in the choice of colors or materials, or in the invention of new developments of creative genius, ever remember to exercise those powers as a Christian—let her cultivate, in her inmost soul, the conviction, that all her skill and power is imparted from on high—and let her be careful to make all she does, a sacrifice, acceptable to her God, by doing all in the spirit, and under the influence of that sacred charity—that boundless benevolence—which ever rejoices, in making its various capabilities subservient to the good of others, and thus gives to the otherwise perishable occurrences of time, an endurance and a continuity, that shall endure for ever.
INDEX.
- Algerine Work, [69]
- Angular Stitch, [33]
- Applique, [84], [89]
- Apron, Girl’s, [40]
- ——, Morning, [40]
- ——, Vandyke, [40]
- —— for a young person, [40]
- Aprons, [38]
- ——, Dress, [39]
- Armorial Bearings, [83], [89]
- Baby’s Cap, [111]
- —— Hood, [112]
- —— Shoe, [112]
- Barege Knitting for Shawls, [115]
- Basket Stitch, [66], [88]
- Bathing Gown, [40]
- Bead Stitch, [127], [145]
- Bead Work, [84]
- Beaufort Star, [71]
- Beautiful Fringe and Border, [113]
- Bed-room Linen, [54]
- Bee’s Stitch, [101]
- Berlin Wire Stitch, [101]
- Biassing, [35]
- Binding, [59]
- Biroche, A, [111]
- Blankets, [54]
- Border for a Shawl, [124]
- Braces, [85]
- Braiding, [59]
- Braid Work, [84], [89]
- Brief Description of Wools, [22]
- Bustles, [41]
- Button-hole Stitch, [31]
- Cap Border Scollop, [140]
- Caps, [41]
- Cashmere Shawl, [49]
- Cast off, To, [100]
- Cast on, To, [98]
- Cast over, To, [99]
- Chain Stitch, [32], [102]
- —— —— on Gathers, [34]
- Checked Patterns, [115]
- Chenille Embroidery, [80]
- Chess Pattern, [71]
- Child’s Collar, [41]
- Cloaks, [42]
- Close Stitch for Waistcoats, [115]
- Comforter, A, [113]
- Comforter, Another, [113]
- Common Plait, [101]
- Common Tatting Edging, [155]
- Coral Pattern, [35]
- Corner for a Shawl, [122]
- Corners, To fill up, [69]
- Cravats, [42]
- Crochet Edging, for Collars, [148]
- —— —— for Hdkfs., [150]
- —— Neck Chain, [152]
- Cross Stitch, [65]
- Crow’s-foot Stitch, [102]
- Diagram, [61]
- Diamond Netting, [128]
- —— —— 5 stitches, [128]
- Dice Pattern, [72]
- —— —— Purse, [135]
- Dinner Napkins, [56]
- Dividing Line, A, [146]
- Dotted Knitting, Baby’s shoe, [117]
- —— Netting, [129]
- Double Cross Stitch, [65]
- —— Diamond, long stitch, [72]
- —— Herring-boning, [34]
- —— Knitting, [103]
- —— Nightcap, [117]
- —— Open Crochet, [144]
- —— Plait Stitch, [69]
- —— Stitch Crochet, [144]
- —— Straight Cross Stitch, [65]
- Dressing Table Covers, [55]
- Dress Shawl, [49]
- Dutch Common Knitting, [104]
- Edge Stitch, [145]
- Elastic Rib, [105]
- Embroidery, [88]
- —— in Wool, [80]
- —— with Silk, [79]
- Embossed Diamond, [104]
- —— Hexagon Stitch, [104]
- Fancy Bobbin Edging, [34]
- —— Button-hole Stitch, [31]
- —— Chain Stitch, [31]
- —— Herring-boning, [33]
- Fantail Stitch, [105]
- Fasten on, To, [100]
- —— off, To, [146]
- Feather Stitch, [67]
- French Ground Net, [130]
- —— Stitch, [105]
- Frills, [42]
- Frame, to Dress for Cloth Work, [82]
- ——, to Dress for Cross Stitch, [82]
- ——, to Dress for Tent Stitch, [83]
- Gathering, Double, or Puffing, [30]
- ——, [30]
- Gem, or Set Patterns, [85]
- Gentlemen’s Belts, [43]
- —— Braces, [89]
- —— Collars, [43]
- —— Fronts, [43]
- —— Travelling Cap, [118]
- —— Waistcoats, [85], [89]
- German Knitting, [105]
- —— Pattern, [72], [88]
- Gobelin, [85]
- —— Stitch, [66]
- Grecian Netting, [130]
- Greek Cap, coarse Chenille, [152]
- Habit Shirt, [119]
- Half Handkerchief, [118]
- Harlequin Quilt, with Tufts, [119]
- Heart Pattern, [73]
- Hemming, [29]
- ——, German, [29]
- Herring-bone Bag Stitch, [106]
- —— Purse, [118]
- Herring-boning, [33]
- Honeycombing, [36]
- Honeycomb Mittens, [136]
- —— Netting, [131]
- —— ——, with two Meshes, [131]
- ——, Another kind, [130]
- —— Stitch, [106]
- Horse-shoe Stitch, [34]
- Housemaid and Kitchen Linen, [57]
- Imitation Net-work Stitch, [106]
- Indian Scarf, [49]
- Insertion, Crochet Beading, [150]
- Instructions in Grounding, [91]
- Irish Diamond, [73]
- —— Stitch, [66]
- Knee Caps, [116]
- Knit Herring-bone Stitch, [107]
- Knitted Footing, [117]
- —— Fringe, [117]
- —— Muff, [114]
- Knitting Stitch, [99]
- Lace, [73], [88]
- —— Wave Stitch, [107]
- Ladies’ Drawers, [43]
- —— Flannel Waistcoats, [44]
- —— Night Jackets, [44]
- —— Purses, [139]
- —— Walking Shawls, [50]
- Landscapes, [85]
- Leaf Netting, [132]
- Long Purse, in Points, [141]
- Loop Stitch, [100]
- Making Buttons, [60]
- Maltese Netting in Spots, [133]
- Mantuamaker’s Hem, [29]
- Materials for Plain Needlework, [17]
- —— for Embroidery, [21]
- —— for Fancy Needlework, [20]
- —— for Knitting, Netting and Crochet, [21]
- Marking, [59]
- Medallion Pattern, [90]
- Mosaic Work, [86], [89]
- Moss Stitch, [107]
- Mourning Shawls, [50]
- Narrowing, [99]
- Necessary Implements in Crochet, [26]
- Necessary Implements in Fancy Needlework, [25]
- Necessary Implements in Knitting, [25]
- Necessary Implements in Netting, [25]
- Neck and Pocket Handkerchiefs, [45]
- Net Cravat, [141]
- —— Scarf, [141]
- —— with Points, [132]
- Netted Bag, with Ring, [135]
- —— Cuffs, with Silk and Wool, [137]
- —— Cuffs, [137]
- —— Fringe, [138]
- —— Opera Cap, [138]
- —— Scollop Edging, [139]
- Night Gowns, [45]
- —— Stockings, [122]
- Open Cross Stitch, [108]
- —— Crochet, [143]
- —— Hem, [107]
- —— Work Stockings, [121]
- Ornamental Ladder Stitch, [108]
- Over Shoe, [114]
- Pantry Linen, [56]
- Pattern for a Light Scarf, [120]
- Patterns on Canvas, [86]
- Pearl Stitch, [99]
- Perforated Card, [86], [89]
- Petticoat Crochet Edging, [149]
- Petticoats, [46]
- ——, Flannel, [46]
- Pillow Covers, [54]
- Pinafore, [47]
- Pincushion Covers, [55]
- Pine Apple Purse, [115]
- —— —— Stitch, [108]
- Piping, [60]
- Plain Crochet, [143]
- —— Crochet Bag, in Silk, [151]
- —— —— Purse, [152]
- —— Double Crochet, [143]
- —— Knitted Muffatees, [120]
- —— —— Gentleman’s Purse, [139]
- —— Netted Mittens, [139]
- —— Netting, [126]
- —— Open Netting, [133]
- —— —— Stitch, [109]
- —— —— Elastic Crochet, [144]
- —— Stitch Open Crochet, [143]
- —— Scarf, [48]
- —— Scollop, [140]
- Plaiting, [60]
- Pockets, [48]
- Point Stitch, [68], [88]
- Porcupine Stitch, [109]
- Princess Royal, [74], [88]
- Pudding Cloth, [58]
- Purse, with China Silk, [135]
- Raised Embroidery, [80]
- —— Stitch, A, [145]
- —— Work, [93]
- Raising, [99]
- Rib, To, [99]
- Ribbon Scarf, [48]
- Roman Pattern, [74]
- Round Netting, [133]
- Rough Cast Stitch, [110]
- Row, A, [99]
- Rug Bordering, [87], [88]
- Running, [29]
- Russian Pattern, [74]
- Scale of Canvases, [21]
- Seam, To, [99]
- Seam Purse, with Beads, [135]
- Serpentine Stitch, [35]
- Sewing and Felling, [29]
- Shaded Silk Netting, [129]
- Sheets, [54]
- Shifts, [50]
- Shirts, [51]
- Single Plait Stitch, [68]
- Slip Stitch, [100]
- Socks, [122]
- Sofa Pillow, [150]
- Star Pattern, [90]
- —— Tatting, [154]
- —— with Eight Points, [116]
- Stitches in Crochet, [142]
- Stitching, [30]
- Stitch, To take in a, [147]
- ——, To increase or decrease a, [145]
- ——, To incr. in Crochet, [147]
- Stitches, To cast on the Loops or, [98]
- Stockings, [120]
- Straight Cross Stitch, [65]
- Strong Knitted Purse, [114]
- Suggestions as to Patterns, [77]
- Table Cloths, [56]
- —— Linen, [56]
- Tatting, Open Stitch, [153]
- Tent Stitch, [64]
- Thread, To bring forward a, [100]
- ——, To carry on a, in Double Crochet, [146]
- Towels, [55]
- Travelling Shawl, [50]
- Treble Open Crochet, [144]
- True Stitch, [145]
- Tucks, [60]
- Turkish Pattern for a Table Cover, [151]
- Wave Pattern, [75]
- —— Knitting, [110]
- Welts, [100]
- Whipping, [31]
- Windsor Pattern, [76]
- Wire Work, [87], [89]
- Working Berlin Pattern, [93]
- —— Figures, [89], [92]
- Zephyr, A, [114]
THE END.
The following typographical errors were corrected:
| Page | Error | Correction |
| [iv] | human felicity | human felicity. |
| [v] | fair one | fair one. |
| [v] | then, how, to fabricate | then, how to fabricate |
| [vi] | form and utilty | form and utility |
| [ix] | netting of a purse, | netting of a purse. |
| [18] | very difficult t | very difficult to |
| [19] | both sides, This | both sides. This |
| [20] | MATERIALS FOE | MATERIALS FOR |
| [21] | Knitting Netting, | Knitting, Netting, |
| [22] | than others | than others. |
| [22] | Wool.—This | Wool.—This |
| [22] | yarn, for mitts, | yarn, for mitts. |
| [24] | her to devise | her to devise. |
| [25] | Tissue Paper | Tissue Paper. |
| [27] | extacy;” | extacy; |
| [27] | native sky. | native sky.” |
| [28] | principal stiches | principal stitches |
| [29] | thread with out | thread without |
| [30] | Gathering | Gathering. |
| [30] | are gathered, Then | are gathered. Then |
| [33] | appropriate situations | appropriate situations. |
| [34] | intricate to describle | intricate to describe |
| [36] | must take grest | must take great |
| [38] | visiter | visitor |
| [41] | colico, ore | calico, are |
| [44] | adies’ Night Jackets. | Ladies’ Night Jackets. |
| [48] | wrong, side | wrong side |
| [48] | Plain Scarf | Plain Scarf. |
| [51] | Another meth d | Another method |
| [55] | into the other, | into the other. |
| [60] | in the middle | in the middle. |
| [60] | like a star | like a star. |
| [64] | painting in oil, | painting in oil. |
| [65] | Cross Stitch | Cross Stitch. |
| [65] | This is a stich | This is a stitch |
| [66] | arrangment | arrangement |
| [67] | same color | same color. |
| [70] | unavailable repentance | unavailable repentance. |
| [71] | increas-increasing | increasing |
| [72] | inprovement | improvement |
| [76] | is complete | is complete. |
| [76] | ane xtremly | an extremely |
| [fn 79-*] | The footnote marker was missing on the footnote | |
| [80] | Chenille Embroidery | Chenille Embroidery. |
| [81] | perseverence | perseverance |
| [83] | restored to | resorted to |
| [84] | braided with ther | braided with their |
| [85] | lavendar | lavender |
| [88] | CHAPTER X | CHAPTER X. |
| [88] | considerable size | considerable size. |
| [89] | assidously | assiduously |
| [93] | the, first | the first |
| [96] | forgotton | forgotten |
| [96] | incovenience | inconvenience |
| [98] | Lee., M. A, | Lee, M. A., |
| [98] | first intoduction | first introduction |
| [98] | the means | the means, |
| [99] | Pearl Stitch | Pearl Stitch. |
| [100] | Note, in cas tingon | Note, in casting on |
| [102] | other three stiches | other three stitches |
| [102] | that tbe pins | that the pins |
| [103] | previous methods | previous methods. |
| [104] | stitches, you choose | stitches you choose |
| [104] | taking careto | taking care to |
| [106] | loops, and kniting | loops, and knitting |
| [107] | knit three siitches | knit three stitches |
| [111] | preceeding | preceding |
| [112] | five rows o | five rows of |
| [113] | ancle | ankle |
| [113] | each stitch; The | each stitch. The |
| [114] | fringe and borber | fringe and border |
| [115] | knitting three stiches | knitting three stitches |
| [118] | when it ouccurs | when it occurs |
| [120] | Pattern for a Light Scarf | Pattern for a Light Scarf. |
| [120] | generaly | generally |
| [122] | every other stich | every other stitch |
| [123] | Eleventh row plain | Eleventh row plain. |
| [123] | make a siitch | make a stitch |
| [123] | knit two togteher | knit two together |
| [124] | twenty-seeond | twenty-second |
| [127] | bottom of the preceeding | bottom of the preceding |
| [128] | For the fouth | For the fourth |
| [129] | principal beauty | principal beauty. |
| [131] | the end Work | the end. Work |
| [134] | You every is missing a word, probably work. This change was not made in the text | |
| [134] | succeding | succeeding |
| [135] | ninety-eight stiiches | ninety-eight stitches |
| [136] | net seven stiches | net seven stitches |
| [137] | double silk | double silk. |
| [137] | to the whole, | to the whole. |
| [140] | loop Net | loop. Net |
| [143] | can be be varied | can be varied |
| [144] | each square, | each square. |
| [145] | back or the | back of the |
| [145] | loose in each | lose in each |
| [145] | To increase or decrease a Stitch. | To Increase or Decrease a Stitch. |
| [145] | conceal the the half | conceal the half |
| [146] | means meaking | means making |
| [150] | This is done it | This is done in |
| [152] | same color | same color. |
| [153] | Take you tatting | Take your tatting |
| [157] | of a highe | of a higher |
| [160] | puposes of selfish | purposes of selfish |
| [161] | sooth | soothe |
| [163] | Bedroom | Bed-room |
| [163] | —— on Gathers | —— —— on Gathers |
| [164] | Tatting Edging | Tatting Edging, |
| [164] | Fan-tail | Fantail |
| [165] | Travelling Cap | Travelling Cap, |
| [165] | Imitation Network | Imitation Net-work |
The Index has been standardized to have a , between the index entry and the page number.
The following words had inconsistent spelling and hyphenation.
- cross-way / crossway
- honey-comb / honeycomb
- indispensible / indispensable
- needle-woman / needlewoman
- needle-work / needlework
- net-work / network
- pin-cushion / pincushion
- vitalized / vitalised