THE DRILL.

The drill is a most useful auxiliary to the eccentric cutter, not only for drilling holes, which it does with great nicety and speed, but also for making mouldings and patterns of various kinds. Unlike the cutter, which moves either in a large or small circle, the drill can only work upon its own centre, and therefore the size of the pattern depends upon the tool placed in it, its position being regulated by the screw in the sliding rest, into which it slips like the cutter. It is turned by a rope exactly the same as in the directions already given for the eccentric cutter, and greatly resembles it in shape, except at the end, A, [plate 7], which is made just to receive the tool, and a small screw keeps it firm. Suppose you wish to ornament anything—say, the pen-holder, [plate 9]—with concave mouldings, as in A. Having set the rest, by the aid of the T square, exactly in the same slanting direction, put a round-ended tool, No. 3, into the drill, set it to the proper distance, fix the brass wheel at 360, cut a round hole; move the wheel to 72, cut another, and so on till five are drilled; then, without altering the rest, put in a smaller round-ended drill, hold it by means of the lever well up to the work, make the large wheel go very quick, and slowly turn the screw of the slide rest, so as to impel the drill which ever way you wish. Do not cut too deep at first, or you will break the tool; if a great depth is required, go over in the same line three or four times. This done, count 72, as before, and proceed the same; the pattern will have the appearance of the pen-holder in the drawing. The end, B, after being turned to the shape, is ornamented in small holes, that resemble a honeycomb, in the same manner, with a round-ended drill; counting so as to make them fit nicely between each other. To do this, you must be able to subdivide your first numbers. Thus, suppose you drill a round hole at 1, 40, 80, and so on till you come to 360, these numbers can be divided by beginning the next row (which must be begun the breadth of the tool from the former one, by turning the slide-rest screw half, or a whole turn, according to the breadth of the tool) at 20, then count forty numbers as before; but if you had taken forty-five instead of forty for your number, you could not have divided it evenly in the second row, so as to make the holes intersect each other. Be very careful to remember how many times you turn the slide-rest wheel, that each cut may be of equal length. There are generally about four dozen tools belonging to the drill, of various sizes, but of the shapes given in [plate 7.] Nos. 1 and 2 drill large or small holes, as for instance, round the sides of a turned pincushion, or needle-book, for the stitches to go through; 3 is used to make concave mouldings, or to cut quite through the work in straight lines, as in the lighter case, E, [plate 9]. This pattern looks very pretty, and is quite easy, if your work is turned sufficiently thin; it should be lined with coloured velvet. No. 4 makes concave mouldings flat at the bottom; these tools are also used to cut round dots: 5, cuts small or large beadings, which give great lightness and finish to the work. Having made a moulding with the hollow tool No. 2 of the slide rest, choose a beading tool that just fits the moulding, put it in your drill, set it to cut sufficiently deep to be quite round at the top; having cut one, count by the brass wheel the proper distance, to make them fit close, but without one spoiling the shape of the other; the round dots on the bottom of the lighter case are intended to represent these beads. Tool No. 6 cuts mouldings of the same shape as the drawing. In using this and the tools Nos. 7 and 8, be careful, after the first cut, where you place them for the second, to make them fit; and in using all the drill tools, make the lathe go as quick as you can, but move your tool very slowly, and keep the drill slide well oiled.

LIST OF NUMBERS ON THE SMALL WHEEL AND
ECCENTRIC CHUCK.

LATHE WHEEL.CHUCK WHEEL.
No. of divisions for one cut.No. of cuts to complete the circle.Odd numbers.No. of divisions for one cut.No. of cuts to complete the circle.Odd numbers.No. of divisions for one cut.No. of cuts to complete the circle.Odd numbers.
 1360— 196— 1120—
 2180— 248— 2 60—
 3120— 332— 3 40—
 4 90— 424— 4 30—
 5 72— 519 1 5 24—
 6 60— 616— 6 20—
 7 51 3 713 5 7 17 1
 8 45— 812— 8 15—
 9 40— 910 6 9 13 3
10 36—10 9 610 12—
11 32 811 8 811 1010
12 30—12 8—12 10—
13 27 913 7 513  9 3
14 251014 61214  8 8
15 24—15 6 615  8—
16 22 816 6—16  7 8
17 21 317 51117  7 1
18 20—18 5 618  612
19 181819 5 119  6 6
20 18—20 41620  6—
21 17 321 41221  515
22 16 822 4 822  510
23 151523 4 423  5 5
24 15—24 4—24  5—
25 141025 32125  420
26 132226 31826  416
27 13 927 31527  412
28 122428 31228  4 8
29 121229 3 929  4 4
30 12—30 3 630  4—
31 111931 3 331  327
32 11 832 3—32  324
33 103033 23033  321
34 102034 22834  318
35 101035 22635  315
36 10—36 22436  312

Plate 7.

These tools are also useful for cutting out the edges of work in vandykes, as in the top of the lighter case, E, for which pattern the tool No. 8 was used, the gimped edge being cut with No. 2; the end of the needle-case, D, in [plate 9], is done with a round-ended drill, No. 3, in the same manner as directed for the end of the pen-holder. In the patterns Nos. 1 and 6 of [plate 11], the straight lines near the centre are cut with the round-ended drill.