The turner's companion /

by Anonymous

THE VERTICAL, OR UNIVERSAL CUTTER.

Plate 7.

This cutter, which also fits into the slide rest, is different from the others; and, as its name denominates, the patterns it can cut are almost endless, for it may be turned in any direction. The bed of the slide is the same as with the drill; at the end, No. 1, is a screw, which, when turned by the key, B, inclines the tool-holder, 2, to any angle that may be required, and it is regulated by the lines on the brass plate, 3, which are marked by a small steel point; so that if you wish to cut out a pattern slanting to the right, and another to correspond slanting to the left, you have only to mark the number on the plate, where you cut the first, and then with the key move the cutter to the same position on the opposite side. When the tool-holder, 2, stands straight, as in the plate, the tool cuts horizontally: when it is screwed down to the last line on the plate, it cuts perpendicularly, but the cut always scoops out; and by putting the tool as far out of the holder as you can, the cut will be larger, and the scoop deeper. The back support of the pulley, 4, moves with the tool-holder; and the pulleys, 5, correspond with each; the back one is turned in the same direction as the front one, by unloosing the screw, 6. The gut, after passing over the pulley on the over-head frame, comes through the two back pulleys of the cutter and round the front one, as in the plate; but when the cutter is screwed flat, a short cord, the same as that used for the drill, is sufficient; and the back pulleys are then not necessary. This tool requires constant oiling at D D, for the friction is very great; it also demands much care and delicacy in using it, as it must not be incautiously thrust against the wood, or it will stick fast, and not turn round. There are about four dozen tools, all of the shapes given in the plate, but of various sizes. This cutter slides into the slide rest, and the depth of the cut is, as usual, regulated by the screws at the end, and the cutter is brought to the work by the aid of the same lever as is used for the drill and eccentric cutter. The patterns cut by this tool are counted and regulated by the numbers on the brass wheel, as with the others. When the turner has once tried it, he will readily discover its advantages for all kinds of ornamental work, particularly for the sides of boxes, needle-cases, and many other articles; but it is needless to give many drawings of the patterns, as they much depend upon the taste of the turner.

One beautiful design for a lighter case, or small basket, is worked with this cutter with a flat-ended tool. Turn the work very thin, chuck it firmly, make one cut deep enough to allow the tool just to cut through, and no more. Count thirty on the brass wheel of the lathe every time; the next row make the cut deeper, so that the opening will be larger, then move 60. By this means a piece of ivory will be left standing out, with openings cut between, which, when lined with coloured velvet, looks light and elegant. This row count sixty every time; the next, thirty, as at the beginning.

Plate 9.

The needle-case in [plate 9], fig. K, is entirely ornamented with this cutter in a variety of patterns. Figs. 1, 3, 4, and 8, are worked with the flat and round-ended tools; 2, with the tool No. 6; 5 with the tool 3; 7, with 4; and 6 with No. 6.

The bottle, B, is also ornamented with the same tools. It is hollow down the neck, and is intended to contain a tin or glass of water; in the stopper is glued a small camel’s-hair brush, which rests in the water, and is meant to be used for wetting postage-stamps, and fastening them upon letters. The bottom of the neck unscrews at fig. 1, and the part below it is hollowed out like a box, to hold the stamps. The neck is ornamented in steps. Set the cutter quite flat, facing the side of the work; use the tool No. 5; cut one line, move the brass wheel of the lathe just far enough to make the second cut join the first, and the same all round. In the next row make the first cut half-way between the others; thus, if you have begun at the numbers, 1, 6, 12, in the second row begin at 3, then go to 9, then to 15, and so on. Every row of steps begins half-way through the former ones, and for each row move the cutter on the slide rest the breadth of the tool. The convex moulding at the bottom of the neck is done by putting one of the hollow tools of the sliding rest into a handle, and rounding the ornament with it. The other patterns are all done with the same cutter, by placing the tools at different angles. In the same [plate, 9], the two patterns F and G are very beautiful, they are worked with the eccentric cutter. F resembles the scales of fish lying one over another: put the most angular tool, No. 5, (of the cutter tools), into the cutter; describe a circle from the edge of the middle line to the outer one; cut one circle very deep, move ten numbers on the brass wheel of the lathe, and so on to the end.

The pattern, G, is worked exactly the same, only a less angular tool, No. 4, is used, and fewer numbers are counted: it resembles leaves, one lying over the other.

The stopper of the bottle, B, is also ornamented with this cutter, and with an angular tool. First turn the stopper quite circular, (the knob at the top must be glued in afterwards). Set the sliding rest at a convenient distance, and place under it one of the slide-rest tools, so as to raise it in an uneven manner; screw the rest firmly, and set the circle just large enough to encircle half the stopper. By this means the tool cuts the UNDER part of the circle, and passes over the other half: this pattern must be cut very deep, and about five numbers be counted between each cut on the brass wheel of the lathe.

D is another pattern for a stopper; it is worked with a round-ended drill. Cut the holes rather deep, and as near as you can to one another, only leaving a very little thin shell of ivory between them, and the pattern will resemble a honeycomb. The lighter case, E, is ornamented with the drill and vertical cutter. Turn the upper part very thin, then drill long lines quite through the ivory, leaving a space between each; this looks light and elegant, if lined with coloured paper. The base is cut in steps with the vertical cutter; count twenty for each cut; the second row, make each cut between the former ones, moving for each row the breadth of the tool. The top is cut out in leaves with the drill tool No. 8.

To sharpen all these tools, use the goneometer, taking care that you fix it exactly at the proper angle, by counting the position by the numbers. If you do not place the tool just at the right angle, it will cut the patterns quite crooked.