The Philippine Islands, 1493-1898—Volume 34 of 55, 1519-1522; 1280-1605 / Explorations by early navigators, descriptions of the islands and their peoples, their history and records of the Catholic missions, as related in contemporaneous books and manuscripts, showing the political, economic, commercial and religious conditions of those islands from their earliest relations with European nations to the close of the nineteenth century

by Antonio Pigafetta

RELATION OF THE PHILIPINAS ISLANDS

The islands of the West, which are commonly called Philipinas, are so numerous that no number can be assigned to them, and most of them are inhabited. They begin almost at Maluco and run in a general north and south direction to the island of Luzon, which is the northernmost and the nearest to China and Japon. This island of Luzon, the one where we are settled, is the principal one of the islands, and the richest and largest. It is about four hundred leguas in circumference. It was formerly circumnavigated by Captain Juan de Salzedo and then after the year 80 by Captain Don Juan de Arze at the order of Governor Francisco de Sande. It extends northwest and southeast. This island has many different peoples and languages quite distinct one from the other. The principal ones, however, are the Tagálogs, whom the Spaniards commonly call Moros, though without any right or reason, for they are not nor have ever been Moros. Others are the Pampangos, Zambales, Ylocos, and Camarines. The remaining peoples can be reduced to the above.[1] This island has four large wealthy provinces where the Spaniards are colonized at present.

The first is the province of the Tagálogs and Pampangos. It is near the city of Manila which was founded by Adelantado Miguel Lopez del Gaspi. The governors [of the islands] now reside here. It is located in a latitude of fourteen and two-thirds degrees. The people of this province are the best of all these islands. They are the most civilized and are truly our friends. They are better clothed than the others, both men and women. They are a light-complexioned people, well-built and even-featured, and are very fond of adorning themselves with jewels, of which they have a great plenty. They also reap large harvests of rice and of cotton, and weave considerable cloth which is exported to Nueva España; while there is wax in great abundance. They are keen traders, and have traded with China for many years, and before the advent of the Spaniards, they sailed to Maluco, Malaca, Hazian,[2] Parani, Burnei, and other kingdoms. These peoples had no kings in these islands, but their method of government was by chiefs, who were the ones who were most powerful and possessed more property. Those chiefs were tyrannical to a degree, and treated all the other people like slaves, seizing their possessions and children whenever they pleased. They were very much inclined to wars and one village was constantly waging war against another, so that there were very few that were at peace, and they acted like barbarians in those wars. At the death of any chief, they had to cut off many heads in order to avenge his death, and they made many feasts and dances in honor of those heads. As a sign of mourning they ate no cleaned rice for a whole year, but only herbs and vegetables.

Their houses were filled with wooden and stone idols (which they called Taotao and Lichac) for they had no temples. They said that the soul entered into one of those idols at the death of any of their parents or children. Consequently, they reverenced them and asked them for life, health, and riches. Those idols were called anitos. When they were sick they cast lots to ascertain which anito had caused them the sickness, and thereupon made great sacrifices and feasts for that anito. Their feasts always ended in drunken revels, for they were much given to the vice of drinking, and it has happened that they will drink constantly for two or three days. However, they have one characteristic, namely, that although they are drunk, they do not entirely lose their senses, and I have never seen any of them fall down because he was drunk. We believe the reason to be because the wine, although powerful at the beginning, soon loses its strength. They worshiped idols which were called Alpriapo, Lacapati, and Meilupa, but God has, in His goodness, enlightened them with the grace of His divine gospel, and they worship the living God in spirit. All these people have abandoned all their superstitions and alone profess the holy Catholic faith.[3] To the glory of the Lord, most of them are Christians, and for those who are not it is for no other lack than that of ministers, which is one of the greatest pities and miseries that has ever been seen. All this people give tribute in gold, silver, and other things, both to the king our sovereign and to others [who are] private persons, by whom they are seized and betrayed and compelled to perform services, both in the raids and wars which are made, and in other services, and do not receive instruction. Those people observe that fully and declare it. There are many excellent churches, and the people are eager to serve them. The boys are very clever and bright, and very easily learn how to write, read, sing, play, and dance. They are taught all those things so that the church may be better served and so that they may be incited to become good Christians upon seeing how to serve God. I have always lived in this province, where I have baptized many with my own hand—more, I believe, counting little and big, than one thousand. I trust, God helping, from what I have learned of them, that many of them are saved. The boys especially will become excellent Christians; for they have lively understanding and take very earnestly to the things of our holy faith and become such that our Spaniards are astonished at it. I have confessed many, both men and women, and I have been astonished to see with what contrition they confess, and how well they know how to accuse themselves—much better than many Spaniards. There are very few in this province who are not Christians although they have not heard the preaching for more than ten years, for before that time there was enough to do in pacifying the land. They hold the holy water in great devotion and always keep it in their houses. They take it to their fields and whatever their necessity, they immediately go to the church for water. They even bathe their swellings with holy water, and always take it on entering and leaving the church so that it is necessary to replenish the founts two or three times a week.

It is a temperate land and not so hot as is thought there [in España]; especially for eight months of the year when no cold or heat is felt. The city of Manila is located near the sea, whose waves beat against the houses, on the shore of a very large and full river. That river flows from a lake located about six leguas from the city. That lake is of fresh water, is thirty leguas in circumference, and its marge and [surrounding] mountains are densely populated. There are twelve convents with their churches which are very large and well built of wood in the vicinity of that lake. Eight of them are of discalced friars[4] (and two of those convents are now built of stone), and the other four belong to the Augustinian fathers. There are also many other churches in the villages which are the visitas of the capitals where the convents are located. That lake is divided among ten encomenderos[5] and they live very well, for it is a rich land and abounds in all kinds of food, especially game and fish, more than one would believe possible, and also buffaloes, deer, and [wild] swine. The city of Manila is well supplied from there.

The people of this island are very skilful in their handling of gold. They weigh it with the greatest skill and delicacy that has ever been seen. The first thing that they teach their children is the knowledge of gold and the weights with which they weigh it, for there is no other money among them. This province, as well as all the others, has the greatest abundance of cocoa palms. This is one of the most fruitful and profitable trees that has ever been found hitherto for [the sustenance of] human life. The things that are obtained from this tree seem incredible to one who has not seen it. For, first, the wood is used in the construction of houses, and the leaves are used for tiles. The fruit is the cocoanut which is good to eat. They have a liquor inside, from which is made milk for cooking rice and other things. Oil is obtained from it which is medicinal like the oil of aparicio. Drinking vessels are made from the shells and a considerable number of them are taken to España. Wine is also made from it (and it is so good that that of España is no better), as well as brandy, vinegar, honey, preserves, and other things that I do not remember. Consequently from the palm the people get whatever they wish. This province contains a very great abundance of game such as buffaloes (which the other islands do not have), many deer, wild boars, a great abundance of goats, and many waterfowl. Many swine and fowl are raised in the houses, eight of the latter being sold for four reals. A very great abundance of fish including sardines are caught in all the settlements of this island, and those people relish it more than meat.

Province of Ylocos

The second part of the island of Luzon is the province of Ylocos, which is located more northerly than Manila. That province contains a Spanish settlement called Villa Fernandina, which was founded by Captain Juan de Salzedo by order of Governor Guido de Labazares. It is seventy leguas from Manila and lies in eighteen degrees of latitude. That province is densely populated and contains larger settlements than the other provinces. The people are however more barbarous, and they are not so well clad or so light complexioned as the others. They are husbandmen and possess very large fields. Consequently, it is a land abounding in rice and cotton.[6] There is also considerable gold, for the chief mines of these islands are situated in the mountains of that province. Those people enjoy it for they have more communication with the miners than anyone else. The Spaniards have endeavored often to colonize the mines in order to work them; but it has as yet been impossible, although Governor Gonçalo Ronquillo was very hot after it, and it cost him many men as the land is very rude and food is scarce. That province of Ylocos is a very unhealthful land and consequently poorly populated by Spaniards. It contains many churches and Christians, and all the people are not wholly Christian because of the lack of ministers. They desire and beg to be made Christians. They are a very simple, domestic, and peaceful people, large of body and very strong. They are a most cleanly race, especially the women in their houses, which they keep very neat and clean. They have a practice of going three or four times a day to bathe in the river.[7]

Province of Cagayan

About thirty leguas farther on from that Villa Fernandina and past the cape called Boxeador and in a latitude of nineteen degrees lies the province and river of Cagayan. It is a very large province and very densely populated and exceedingly well supplied with rice, cotton,[8] very large fowls, deer, buffaloes, and a great quantity of wax. The shore of that river which is called Tajo is very large. About two leguas from the sea is settled the city of [Nueva] Segovia. It was colonized by Captain Juan Pablo de Carrion by order of Governor Don Gonçalo Ronquillo. That river is about eighty leguas distant from China, less rather than more. Inasmuch as it is so near, and also because it contains so many people and is so rich and well supplied with food, the effort has been made often to completely subdue it and settle it, but that effort has not as yet been successful. I believe the cause is the few Spaniards and the few religious that can enter it at one time. That land is very fitting for commerce with China as that country is so near, and has excellent rivers for galleys and ships. One can cross to China in one and one-half days, and the mainland of China is often reached at night. In the month of March of the year 82, Captain Juan Pablo de Carrion went to colonize that province, and since then many more people than before live there.[9] When he reached that place he found a fleet of Japanese pirates who desired to settle there and had taken possession of the river. Passing through their midst without receiving any harm, he went up higher on the river and with the greatest haste made a sort of fort from an old galley that he had, in which he mounted his artillery as well as possible. The Japanese general wrote him a letter, in which he said that he knew well that they were robbers like himself, but that he was there first, and had come at his king’s command; consequently, if Carrion wished him to go away and leave him the river he was to give him a large sum of gold. The captain replied to him that he came only to protect the natives and to take from the Japanese the gold that they had seized from them and drive them out of the country. When the Japanese found that nothing would be given them, more than six hundred men came one morning at dawn to attack the fort, armed with excellent muskets and weapons. Our men numbered about eighty but they were defended by their small fort of old stakes. A great number of the Japanese were killed while not more than one of our men was killed, and it is even said that he was killed by accident by those who were inside the fort. When the Japanese saw how evilly the day was going for them and tasted of the skill of the Spaniards, they determined to retreat, and leave not only the fort, but also our men and return to their country. I was told by Father Francisco Cabral,[10] of the Society of Jesus, who was then provincial in Japon, that he had talked with them and that they were afraid of the Spaniards, and said that such people [as the Spaniards] had never been seen. They were astonished above all else at the rapidity and skill with which the Spaniards discharged their weapons. Surely they had good reason to be afraid, for I believe that there is now no better soldiery than that of the Philipinas, especially the arquebusiers. The people of the province cf Cagayam resemble those of Ylocos. They are very vile, and poorly dressed, but are fine husbandmen. Christianity has not entered there to any extent, but there are some fathers there. They have begun to build churches although the land is not entirely quiet. It will be pacified soon, our Lord willing, as in the other parts, especially if there are priests to send.

Signature of Martin Ignacio de Loyola (author of the Itinerario in Mendoza’s Historia de ... China—see VOL. VI, pp. 134–153, this series); et al.

[Photographic facsimile of original MS. in Archivo general de Indias, Sevilla]

Province of Camarines

The other cape of this island of Luzon lying to the southeast is called Buza y Gan.[11] It lies in a latitude of thirteen and one-third degrees. There is a port there which is at times made by the ships from Mexico. Twenty leguas from the cape of Buza y Gan inland is the village of [Nueva] Caceres. That village was colonized by Captain Don Juan de Arze at the order of Governor Francisco Sande.

That province is called Camarines and is very large and densely populated. It contains many small provinces in its confines. The people are well featured and are excellent husbandmen, and therefore they have considerable rice. There are many gold mines in that province and many excellent goldsmiths after their fashion. Those men roam throughout the island in order to gain their living. Many interesting things made by them are taken to Mexico, especially filigree work. It is a very healthful land, has good air, and is well populated by Spaniards. That province also contains many Christians. Its people are very ready to receive our holy faith, and are of considerable intelligence; but they are not all Christians for lack of ministers.[12] It is a cause for pity to see so much ready for the harvest in these islands and to see how few workers there are, although they are full to overflowing in the convents of España. The above is what occurs to me to tell briefly of the island of Luzon and of the city of Manila. Manila is of great importance viewed in any light, and must become very great and a general center for many parts. The distance from this city of Manila to the city of Macan in China is one hundred and sixty leguas. The Japanese also are slightly farther away from the upper point of this island, namely, the cape of Boxador. The island of Burnei is one hundred and eighty leguas from Manila and extends northeast and southwest from Manila. It is a very large island and densely populated. Doctor Francisco de Sande went to that island in the year 78, with three royal galleys and some other small ships and less than four hundred men, to summon the king of the island to make peace and friendship with us; for the natives of Luzon were daily threatening us with the coming of the king of Burney. When Sande arrived near the island he sent two Indian interpreters with a message to the king, but the latter refused to listen to the message, and with great fury ordered the ambassadors to be killed. However, it was the Lord’s will that one of them should escape as by a miracle, for he made a vow when he beheld himself in that predicament to become a Christian if the Lord would save him. The Lord saved him and he afterward performed his vow and is now an excellent Christian, and has produced much fruit among his fellow-natives, as I am a good witness. When the governor learned of the insult that the king of Burnei had shown him, he resolved to gain by force what they refused to give him willingly. The king of Burneo sailed out into the sea with a great number of galleys and galliots and a considerable quantity of good artillery. But when our artillery was discharged, and the Borneans saw that it had so long a range, while their own had no effect, they began to turn and flee. The small ships went in pursuit of them and captured their galleys which they had abandoned and a quantity of their artillery, although much of the latter was also thrown into the water. The governor followed up his victory, and entered the city where he pillaged a great part of wealth. Almost all the people fled to the mountains. That city was very large and rich, and was built on a very broad and deep river, and had the appearance of another Venecia.[13] The buildings were of wood, but the houses were excellently constructed, many of them being constructed with stone work and gilded, especially the king’s palaces which were of huge size. That city contained a very sumptuous mosque, a very large and interesting building quite covered with half-relief and gilded. When the governor returned to Manila he ordered that mosque to be burned. That king of Burnay is a Moro from Meca and is the ruler of the seaports and rivers of that island where he has settlements of Moros. The natives of the island however are heathen as are all the other peoples of the Philipinas. The governor sent a message to the king in order to get him to make peace with him, but it was impossible to find him for he refused to put in an appearance. More than five hundred Indians came to make peace, among them an uncle of the king who acted as his master-of-camp. At that juncture it was the Lord’s will that all the men of our camp commenced to fall sick so that there was almost no man in the camp who could perform sentinel duty, and many died. It was thought to be caused by an herb which the natives put into the food or which they had thrown into the water. The governor was, therefore, forced to abandon the settlement and return to Manila. The Moro king returned to his city and rebuilt his mosque and fort. He has many galleys and a quantity of artillery at present, but it will be of no avail if the Spaniards return thither. It is reported that he had his uncle killed as well as the other leaders who made peace. Burney is a way-station of great importance, for it is on the way from Malaca to Meluco, and Manila, while it is an excellent harbor for the fleets which sail to Malaca destined far Patan, Sian, and other kingdoms. From Manila toward the south lies Maluco at a distance of three hundred leguas, and in the midst of the way lie the islands called Philipinas. The latter are densely populated, well supplied with food, and rich in gold. Among them are Mindanao, Sebu, Panay, and others which I do not name although they are large. All the above-named islands are inhabited by Pintados, whom we call Vizayos. They exhibit but few differences among themselves. They are a robust and energetic race, and more inclined to war and pillage than to work. They are not traders as are those of Manila nor so wealthy, for they are satisfied if they have a bit of rice and wine. The island of Zebu is one of these islands. It is the province where the Spaniards were stationed, and where they established the oldest colony on the seashore on one of the finest harbors in the world. It was colonized by Adelantado Miguel Lopez de Legazpi, and was called the city of Nombre de Jesus; for, when our men went thither, they found a very beautiful child Jesus there, which had been there since they had killed the famous Magallanes. The Indians reverenced that image highly and commended themselves to it in their necessities. Especially at times of drought they took it and bathed it in the sea, whereupon the Lord gave them rain in plenty. It is now kept in the convent of the Augustinian fathers of that city. That was the first church in these islands. The Lord works many miracles at present by means of that image. The Spaniards were living in that island when a vast Portuguese fleet composed of galleys and galleons came to take them to India. Its captain was a certain Gonçalo Pereira Marromaquez, and notwithstanding that our men were so few[14] and had no fort, they managed so discreetly and the Lord (who knew the great benefit that must follow from their permanence), aided them so well that the Portuguese retired in confusion seemingly with their hands to their heads. That island [of Cebú] is small but very healthful. All its inhabitants are Christians, being the oldest Christians of all the islands. That island lies on the way and route to Malaca. The adelantado went to the island of Panay from that island as it was inadequate, after leaving a sufficient number of Spaniards there, and settled on a large river called by the same name [of Panay]. He stayed there until he went to Manila where even to this day is the settlement of the Spaniards, and where I believe that it will always be as it is a fine center. That island of Panay is the best of those under his Majesty’s dominion except the island of Luzon. Its inhabitants are Pintados like the others. It abounds in all sorts of provisions, and has quantities of cotton cloth. It has an excellent Spanish colony at the present, although it is not in the same location as at first. That settlement is called the city of Arevalo. Panay is a healthful and temperate island and contains many Christians, for there are a number of convents of the Augustinian fathers in nearly all parts of it. There are many other islands which are of quite large size and densely populated. They are under the dominion of his Majesty and pay an annual tribute. However, they have no Spanish colonies, and cannot have any, because the Spaniards are few in number and have much to which to attend. If his Majesty should send more men here to these islands, they are located in a center where great things can be undertaken and success assured, for finally as abovesaid all of the inhabitants are Indians.

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[1] See the excellent “History of the population” of the Philippine Islands, by Dr. David P. Barrows, in Census of Philippine Islands, pp. 411–491; and the succeeding articles on population, pp. 492–585. [↑]

[2] Possibly the state of Achen in Sumatra is meant. [↑]

[3] Cf. Loarca’s account of the beliefs of the Visayas Islands, VOL. V, pp. 121–141, 163, 165, of the Tagálogs, pp. 171–175; Plasencia’s account of the worship of the Tagálogs, VOL. VII, pp. 185–196. [↑]

[4] That is Franciscans, who first went to the islands in 1577. Salazar in his relation (VOL. VII, p. 39), says also that there were twelve religious houses in the province of La Laguna—ten Franciscan, one Augustinian, and one secular. This would indicate that Salazar’s relation is the later, for the tendency would be for the Franciscans to increase. [↑]

[5] Loarca (VOL. V, pp. 87, 88) mentions the names of the ten encomiendas about the lake of Bay. Salazar (ut supra) allows but eight encomenderos to this district. [↑]

[6] The production of cotton in the Philippines has been almost entirely confined to the island of Luzón, and was formerly much more important than now. Ilocos (Norte and Sur) produced in 1902, 64.2 per cent of the cotton grown in the archipelago (the cotton area in the two provinces constituting 73.2 per cent of all the cotton area of the island). The cotton area of Ilocos Norte for that year was 1,591 hectares, and the crop, 605,021 kilograms; and the cotton land of Ilocos Sur, 645 hectares, and the crop, 244,140 kilograms. The greatest rice-producing province in the Philippines is Pangasinán, which produced 1,454,601 hectoliters in 1902, while Ilocos Norte is fifth in order with 483,520 hectoliters, and Ilocos Sur eighth with 425,231 hectoliters. The archipelago does not raise enough rice to meet domestic wants, as it is more profitable to raise other crops, especially abacá. See Census of Philippine Islands, iv, pp. 209, 218, 219. [↑]

[7] Cf. Loarca’s account of the province of Ilocos, VOL. V, p. 103, and Salazar’s, VOL. VII, p. 37. [↑]

[8] The cotton area of Cagayan did not reach 100 hectares in 1902, and the rice crop for that year was only 89,285 hectoliters. In 1902 Cagayan was the third province in the production of corn (11,598 hectoliters) and sweet potatoes (5,415,626 kilograms). The total area of that province is 1,308,468 hectares, of which 138,166 hectares or 10.6 per cent is agricultural. Of this 35,430 hectares or 25.6 per cent are cultivated and 102,736 hectares uncultivated. See Census of Philippine Islands, iv. [↑]

[9] Montero y Vidal (Hist. de Filipinas, i, p. 84) says of this incident: “A Japanese pirate, called Tayfusa or Taizufa, having made himself master of Cagayán, was committing many depredations among its natives. Ronquillo sent Juan Pablo Carrión to oppose him, who succeeded, although not without difficulty, in driving him from the province. Then Carrión pacified the whole territory after defeating the native chiefs. He founded the city of Nueva Segovia in Lal-lo. He was accompanied in that expedition by the Dominican father Fray Cristóbal de Salvatierra and the Augustinian Francisco Rodríguez.” [↑]

[10] Francisco Cabral was born at Covilham Portugal, in 1528, and entered his novitiate in the Society of Jesus at Goa in 1554. He professed philosophy and theology, and later became master of novices, and rector of the colleges of Goa, Baçaim, and Cochim. Later he went to Japan, where he was vice-provincial for some years. Going thence to China, he returned later to the Indies, where he was visitor, provincial, and an official in the professed house at Goa, where he died April 16, 1609. Many of his letters have been published. See Sommervogel’s Bibliothèque. [↑]

[11] The author probably includes in the term Camarines the modern provinces of Ambos Camarines, Albay, and Sorsogón, and possibly Tayabas. In 1902 Ambos Camarines was fourth in the production of abacá, the provinces of Leyte, Albay, and Sorsogón, preceding it. Its total area is 849,261 hectares, of which 106,371 hectares or 12.5 per cent are agricultural. Of this 59,683 hectares or 56.1 per cent are cultivated. Cf. the above account with that of Loarca, VOL. V, pp. 93–101. See Census of Philippine Islands, iv. [↑]

[12] This is the Bucaygan of Loarca (see VOL. V, p. 99), and must be the point on the southeastern extremity of Sorsogón. [↑]

[13] See Pigafetta’s description of the city of Brunei, ante, VOL. XXXIII, p. 221; see also VOL. IV, p. 160 ff. [↑]

[14] Literally: “Notwithstanding that our men were four cats.” [↑]