INDEX and VOCABULARY

[A] [B] [C] [D] [E] [F] [G] [H] [I] [J] [K] [L] [M] [N] [O] [P] [Q] [R] [S] [T] [U] [V] [W] [Y] [Z]

A

Abalana, Abellana, hazelnut, see [Avellana]

Abbreviations, explanation of, p. [xv]

ABDOMEN, sow’s udder, belly, fat of lower part of belly, figur. Gluttony, intemperance

ABROTANUM, —ONUM, —ONUS the herb lad’s love; or, according to most Southernwood. ABROTONUM is also a town in Africa

Absinth. ABSINTHIUM, the herb wormwood. The Romans used A. from several parts of the world. ℞ [3], also APSINTHIUM

ABSINTHIATUS, —UM, flavored with wormwood, ℞ [3]

ABSINTHITES, wine tempered or mixed with wormwood; modern absinth or Vermouth, cf. ℞ [3]

ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM, ℞ [3]

ABUA, a small fish; see [APUA], ℞ [138], [139], [147]

ACER, ACEO, ACIDUM, to be or to make sour, tart

ACETABULUM, a “vinegar” cruet: a small measure, equivalent to 15 Attic drachms; see [Measures]

ACETUM, vinegar
—— MULSUM, mead

ACICULA, ACUS, the needle fish, or horn-back, or horn-beak; a long fish with a snout sharp like a needle; the gar-fish, or sea-needle

ACIDUM, sour; same as [ACER]

ACINATICIUS, a costly raisin wine

ACINOSUS, full of kernels or stones

ACINUS, —UM, a grain, or grape raisin berry or kernel

ACIPENSER, a large fish, sturgeon, ℞ [145]; also see [STYRIO]

ACOR, —UM, sourness, tartness; the herb sweetcane, gardenflag, galangale

ACRIMONIA, acidity, tartness, sourness; harshness of taste

ACUS, same as [ACICULA]

Adjustable Table, illustration, p. [138]

ADULTERAM, “tempting” dish, ℞ [192]

Adulterations of food in antiquity, pp. [33], [39], seq. [147]; ℞ [6], [7], [9], [15], [17], [18]. Also see [Cookery, deceptive]

Advertising cooked ham, ℞ [287]

Advertising ancient hotels, p. [6]

Aegineta, Paulus, writer on medicine and cookery, see Apiciana, No. [5-6]

AENEUM, a “metal” cooking utensil, a [CACCABUS], which see; AENEUM VAS, a mixing bowl; AENEA PATELLA, a pewter, bronze or silver service platter. Aeno Coctus, braised, sometimes confused with oenococtum, stewed in wine

AËROPTES, fowl, birds; the correct title of Book [VI], see p. [141]

Aethiopian Cumin ℞ [35]

“AFFE” (Ger.) Monkey; ℞ [55]; also see [Caramel Coloring]

AGITARE (OVA), to stir, to beat (eggs)

AGNUS, IN AGNO, lamb; AGNINUS, pertaining to L. ℞ [291] seq., [355], [364], [495]
—— COPADIA AGNINA, ℞ [355] seq.
—— AGNI COCTURA, ℞ [358]
—— ASSUS, ℞ [359]
—— AGNUM SIMPLICEM, ℞ [495]
—— TARPEIANUS, ℞ [363]

AGONIA, cattle sacrificed at the festivals: only little of the victims was wasted at religious ceremonies. The priests, after predicting the future from the intestines, burned them but sold the carcass to the innkeeper and cooks of the POPINA, hence the name. These eating places of a low order did a thriving business with cheaply bought meats which, however, usually were of the best quality. In Pompeii such steaks were exhibited in windows behind magnifying glasses to attract the rural customer

Albino, writer, p. [10]

ALBUM, ALBUMEN, white; —— OVORUM, the “whites” of egg; —— PIPER, white pepper, etc.

ALEX, (ALEC, HALEC), salt water, pickle, brine, fish brine. Finally, the fish itself when cured in A. cf. [MURIA]

Alexandria, the city founded by Alexander the Great, important Mediterranean harbor. A. was a rival of Rome and Athens in Antiquity, famous for its luxury

Alexandrine dishes ℞ [75], [348], seq.

ALICA, spelt. ℞ [200]

ALICATUM, any food treated with [ALEX], which see

ALLIATUM, a garlic sauce, consisting of a purée of pounded garlic whipped up with oil into a paste of a consistency of mayonnaise, a preparation still popular in the Provence today; finally, anything flavored with garlic or leeks

ALLIUM, garlic; also leek. Fr. AILLE

Almonds, AMYGDALA, peeling and bleaching of A. ℞ [57]

AMACARUS, sweet-marjoram, feverfew

AMBIGA, a small vessel in the shape of a pyramid

AMBOLATUS, unidentified term; p. [172]; ℞ [57], 59

Amerbach Manuscript, Apiciana [XIV]

AMMI, (AMMIUM, AMI, AMIUM), cumin

AMURCA (AMUREA), the lees of oil

AMYGDALA (—UM) Almonds, ℞ [57]; OLEUM AMYGDALIUM, almond oil

AMYLARE (AMULARE), to thicken with flour. AMYLATUM (AMULATUM) that which is thickened with flour. Wheat or rice flour and fats or oil usually were used for this purpose, corresponding to our present roux. However, the term was also extended to the use of eggs for the purpose of thickening fluids, thus becoming equivalent to the present liaison, used for soups and sauces. Hence AMYLUM and AMULUM, which is also a sort of frumenty

Anacharsis, the Scythian, writer. He described a banquet at Athens during the Periclean age. pp. [3], [7]

ANAS, a duck or drake; ℞ [212-17]. ANATEM, ℞ [212]; ANATEM EX RAPIS, ℞ [214]

Anchovy, a small fish; ℞ [147]; cf. [APUA]. —— forcemeat, ℞ [138]; —— sauce and [GARUM] (which see) ℞ [37]; —— omelette ℞ [147]

ANET(H)ATUM, flavored with dill; ANET(H)UM, dill, also anise

ANGUILLA, eel, ℞ [466-7], [484]. cf. [CONGRIO]

ANGULARUS, a “square” dish or pan

ANISUM, anise, pimpinella

ANSER, goose, gander; IN ANSERE, ℞ [234]; —— JUS CANDIDUM ℞ [228]

ANTIPASTO, “Before the Meal,” modern Italian appetizer; the prepared article usually comes in cans or glasses, consisting of tunny, artichokes, olives, etc., preserved in oil

APER, see [APRUS]

APEXABO, a blood sausage; cf. [LONGANO]

Aphricocks, ℞ [295]

APHROS, ℞ [295]

APHYA, see [APUA]

Apician Cheesecakes, p. [9]
—— cookery, influence, p. [16], [23]
—— Archetypus, p. [19]
—— manuscripts, p. [19], p. [253], seq.
—— Terminology, p. [22]
—— dishes, compared with modern dishes, p. [23]
—— sauces, p. [24]
—— Style of writing, p. [26]
—— research, p. [34] seq.

Apiciana, Diagram of, p. [252]

Apicius, pp. [7], [9]
—— The man, p. [9]
—— Athenaeus on, p. [9]
—— and Platina, p. [9]
—— Expedition to find crawfish, p. [9]
—— ships oysters, p. [10]
—— school, p. [10]
—— death, pp. [10], [11]
—— reflecting Roman conditions, pp. [14], [15]
—— authenticity of, pp. [18], [19]
—— writer, p. [26], ℞ [176], [436]
—— confirmed by modern science, p. [33]
—— editors as cooks, p. [34] seq.

Apion, writer, quoted by Athenaeus, p. [9]

APIUM, celery, smallage, parsley. ℞ [104]

APOTHERMA (—UM, APODERMUM) hot porridge, gruel, pudding. ℞ [57]; cf. [TISANA]

APPARATUS, preparation; —— MENSAE, getting dinner ready

Appetizers. ℞ [174] and others. According to Horace, eggs were the first dishes served. The “moveable appetizer” of Apicius is very elaborate, p. [210]

Appert, François, ℞ [24], father of the modern canning methods

Apples, ℞ [22], [171]

APRUS, APRUGNUS, wild boar. ℞ [329-38]. APRINA, PERNA, ℞ [338], also APER

APUA (ABUA, APHYA), a small kind of fish, anchovy, sprat, whiting, white bait, or minnow. ℞ [138-9], [146], cf. [Pliny]. Apua is also a town in Liguria; its inhabitants APUANI

AQUA, water; —— CALIDA, hot w.; —— CISTERNINA, well w.; —— MARINA, sea w.; —— NITRATA, soda w. for the cooking of vegetables; —— RECENS; fresh, i.e., not stale w.; —— PLUVIALE, rain w.

AQUALICUS lower part of belly, paunch, ventricle, stomach, maw

Archetypus Fuldensis, manuscript, see [Apiciana Diagram]

ARCHIMAGIRUS, principal cook, chef, cf. [Cooks’ names]

ARIDA (—US, —UM) dry; —— MENTHA, dry mint

ARTEMISIA, the herb mugwort, motherwort, tarragon

ARTOCREAS, meat pie

ARTOPTES, Torinus’ title of Book [II]; better: SARCOPTES, minces, minced meats

ARTYMA, spice; cf. [CONDIMENTUM]

Asa foetida, use of —— ℞ [15], p. [23]

ASARUM, the Herb foalbit, foalfoot, coltsfoot, wild spikenard

ASCALONICA CEPA, “scallion,” young onion

Asparagus, ASPARAGUS, p. [188], ℞ [72], —— and figpecker, ℞ [132], —— custard pie, ℞ [133]

ASSATURA, a roast, also the process of roasting. ℞ [266-270]

ASSUS, roast

ASTACUS, a crab or lobster

Athenaeus, writer, pp. [3], seq.
—— on Apicius, p. [10]

Athene, Dish illustration, p. [158]

ATRIPLEX, the herb orage, or orach

ATRIUM, living room in a Roman residence, formerly used for kitchen purposes, hence the name, “black room,” because of the smoky walls. Like all simple things then and now, the Atrium often developed into a magnificently decorated court, with fountains and marble statues, and became a sort of parlor to receive the guests of the house

ATTAGENA (ATAGENA), heath cock, a game bird. ℞ [218], seq.

AURATA, a fish, “golden” dory, red snapper. ℞ [157], [461], [462]

AVELLANA, hazelnut, filbert, Fr. AVELLINE
—— NUX, —— NUCLEUS, kernel of f. ℞ [297] and in the list of the [Excerpta]

AVENA, a species of bearded grass, haver-grass, oats, wild oats

AVIBUS, IN— ℞ [220], [21], [24], [27]

AVICULARIUS, bird keeper, poulterer

AVIS, bird, fowl; AVES ESCULENTAE, edible birds. —— HIRCOSAE, ill-smelling birds, ℞ [229-30], —— NE LIQUESCANT, ℞ [233]

B

BACCA, berry, seed. —— MYRTHEA, myrtle berry; —— RUTAE, rue berry; —— LAUREA, laurel berry, etc.

Bacon, ℞ [285-90]; see also [SALSUM]

BAIAE, a town, watering place of the ancients, for which many dishes are named. ℞ [205]. BAIANUM pertaining to BAIAE; hence EMPHRACTUM ——, FABAE, etc. ℞ [202], [205], [432]; Baian Seafood Stew, ℞ [431]

Bakery in Pompeii, illustration, p. [2]

Bantam Chicken, ℞ [237]

Barracuda, a fish, ℞ [158]

Barley Broth, ℞ [172], [200], [247]

BARRICA, ℞ [173]

Barthélemy, J. J., writer, translator of Anacharsis, p. [8]

Baseggio, G., editor, Apiciana, No. [13], p. [270]

BASILICUM, basil

Bavarian Cabbage, ℞ [87]

Beans, ℞ [96], [189], [194-8], [247]; Green —— ℞ [247]; —— sauté, ℞ [203]; —— in mustard, ℞ [204]
—— Baian style, ℞ [202]
—— “Egyptian,” see [COLOCASIUM]

Beauvilliers, A., French cook; cf. [Styrio]

Beef, p. [30]; shortage of —— diet, p. [30]
—— “Beef Eaters,” p. [30]
—— dishes, ℞ [351], seq.

Beets, ℞ [70], [97], [98], [183]
—— named for Varro, ℞ [70], [97], [98]

Bernardinus, of Venice, printer, p. [258]

Bernhold, J. M., editor, Apiciana, Nos. [2-3], [12-14], pp. [258], seq.

BETA, beet, which see BETACEOS VARRONES, ℞ [70]

Bibliographers of Apicius, see [Apiciana]

Birds, Book [VI], ℞ [210-227]; treatment of strong-smelling —— ℞ [229], [230]

BLITUM, a pot herb, the arrack or orage, also spinach, according to some interpreters

Boar, wild, ℞ [329-38], p. [314]

Boiled Dinners, ℞ [125]

BOLETAR, a dish for mushrooms, ℞ [183]

BOLETUS, mushroom, ℞ [309-14]

Bordelaise, ℞ [351]

Borrichius, Olaus, p. [268]

BOTELLUS, (dim. of BOTULUS) small sausage, ℞ [60]. BOTULUS, a sausage, meat pudding, black pudding, ℞ [60], [61], [172]

BOUILLABAISSE, a fish stew of Marseilles, ℞ [431], [481]

Bouquet garni, ℞ [138]

BOVES, Beef cattle; cf. [BUBULA]

Bowls for mixing wine, etc., see [Crater]
—— for fruit or dessert, illustration, p. [61]

Brain Sausage, ℞ [45]
—— Custard, ℞ [128]
—— and bacon, ℞ [148]
—— and chicken with peas, ℞ [198]

Brandt, Edward, Editor, Commentator, ℞ [29], [170], p. [273]

BRASSICA, cabbage, kale; —— CAMPESTRA, turnip; —— OLERACEA, cabbage and kale; —— MARINA, sea kale (?)

Bread, Alexandrine, ℞ [126]; Picentian ——, ℞ [125]. The methods of grinding flour and baking is illustrated with our illustrations of the Casa di Forno of Pompeii and the Slaves grinding flour, which see, pp. [142], [149]. Apicius has no directions for baking, an art that was as highly developed in his days as was cookery

BREVIS PIMENTORUM, facsimile, p. [234]

Brissonius, writer, quoting Lambecius, ℞ [376]

Broiler and Stove, illustration, p. [182]

Broth, see [LIQUAMEN]; Barley ——, ℞ [172], [200], [201]
—— How to redeem a spoiled, ℞ [9]

BUBULA, Beef, flesh of oxen, p. [30], ℞ [351], [352]

BUBULUS CASEUS, cow’s cheese

BUCCA, BUCCEA, mouth, cheek; also a bite, a morsel, a mouth-full; Fr. BOUCHÉE; BUCELLA (dim.) a small bite, a dainty bit, delicate morsel; hence probably, Ger. “Buss’l” a little kiss and “busseln,” to spoon, to kiss, in the Southern German dialect

BUCCELLATUM, a biscuit, Zwieback, soldier’s bread, hard tack

BULBUS, a bulbous root, a bulb, onion, ℞ [285], [304-8]

BULBI FRICTI, ℞ [308]

BULLIRE, to boil; Fr. BOUILLIR

BUTYRUM, butter. Was little used in ancient households, except for cosmetics. Cows were expensive, climate and sanitary conditions interfered with its use in the Southern kitchen. The Latin butyrum is said to derive from the German Butter

C

CABBAGE, ℞ [87-92], [103]; p. [188]
Bavarian, ℞ [87]
Ingenious way of cooking, ℞ [88]
Chartreuse, ℞ [469]

CACABUS, CACCABUS, a cook pot, marmite; see [OLLA]. Illustrations, pp. [183], [209], [223], [235]. Hence: CACCABINA, dish cooked in a caccabus. See also [SALACACCABIA], ℞ [468]. I Exc. [470]

CAELIUS, see [Coelius]

CAEPA, CEPA, onion; —— ARIDA, fresh onion; —— ROTUNDA, round onion; —— SICCA, dry o.; —— ASCALONICA, young o. “scallion;” —— PALLACANA or PALLICANA, a shallot, a special Roman variety

Calamary, cuttlefish, ℞ [405], p. [343]

CALAMENTHUM, cress, watercress

CALLUM, CALLUS (—— PORCINUM) tough skin, bacon skin, cracklings. ℞ [9], [251], [255]

CAMERINUM, town in Umbria, ℞ [3], where Vermouth was made

CAMMARUS MARINUS, a kind of crab-fish, ℞ [43]

CANABINUM, CANNABINUM, hemp, hempen

CANCER, crab

Canning, ℞ [23-24]

CANTHARUS, illustrations, p. [231]; p. [274]

CAPON, ℞ [166], [249]; CAPONUM TESTICULI, ℞ [166]

CAPPAR, caper

CAPPARA, purslane, portulaca

CAPPARUS, CARABUS, ℞ [397]

CAPRA, she-goat, also mountain goat, chamois; Ger. GEMSE; ℞ [346-8]

Caramel coloring, ℞ [55], [73], [119], [124], [146]

CARDAMOMUM, cardamom, aromatic seed

CARDAMUM, nasturtium, cress

Cardoons, ℞ [112-4]

CARDUS, CARDUUS, cardoon, edible thistle, ℞ [112-3]

Carême, Antonin, The most talented French cook of the post-revolution period; his chartreuses compared, ℞ [186], p. [35]

CARENUM, CAROENUM, wine or must boiled down one third of its volume to keep it. ℞ [35]

CAREUM, CARUM, Carraway

CARICA (—— FICUS) a dried fig from Caria, a reduction made of the fig wine was used for coloring sauce, similar to our [caramel color], which see

CARIOTA, CARYOTA, a kind of large date, figdate; also a wine, a date wine; ℞ [35]

CARO, flesh of animals, ℞ [10]; —— SALSA, pickled meat

CAROTA, CAROETA, carrot; ℞ [121-3]

Carthusian monks, inventors of the CHARTREUSE, ℞ [68], see also [Carême]

CARTILAGO, gristle, tendon, cartilage

CARYOPHYLLUS, clove

Casa di Forno, Pompeii, “House of the Oven,” illustration, p. [2]

CASEUS, cheese; ℞ [125], [303]; —— BUBULUS, cow’s cheese; —— VESTINUS, ℞ [126]

CASTANEA, chestnut, ℞ [183] seq.

Catesby, writer, ℞ [322]

Catfish, ℞ [426]

CATTABIA, see [Salacaccabia]

Caul Sausage, Kromeski, ℞ [45]

CAULICULOS, ℞ [87-92]; also Col— cul— and coliclus

Cauliflower, ℞ [87]

Caviare, see [STYRIO]

Celery, ℞ [104]

Celsinus, a Roman, ℞ [376-7]

CENA, COENA, a meal, a repast; CENULA, a light luncheon; —— RECTA, a “regular” meal, a formal dinner, usually consisting of GUSTUS, appetizers and light ENTRÉES, the CENA proper which is the PIÈCE DE RESISTANCE and the MENSÆ SECUNDAE, or desserts. The main dish was the CAPUT CENAE; the desserts were also called BELLARIA or MENSAE POMORUM, because they usually finished with fruit. Hence Horace’s saying “AB OVO USQUE AD MALA” which freely translated and modernized means, “Everything from soup to nuts.”

—— AUGURALIS, —— PONTIFICALIS, —— CAPITOLINA, —— PERSICA, ——SYBARITICA, —— CAMPANAE, —— CEREALIS, —— SALIARIS, ——TRIUMPHALIS, —— POLINCTURA are all names for state dinners, official banquets, refined private parties each with its special significance which is hard to render properly into our language except by making a long story of it

—— PHILOSOPHICA, —— PLATONICA, —— LACONICA, —— RUSTICA, ——CYNICA are all more or less skimpy affairs, while the —— ICCI is that of a downright miser. —— HECATES is a hectic meal, ——TERRESTRIS a vegetarian dinner, —— DEUM, a home-cooked meal, and a —— SATURNIA is one without imported dishes or delicacies, a national dinner

—— NOVENDIALIS is the feast given on the ninth day after the burial of a dead man when his ashes were scattered while yet warm and fresh. —— DUBIA, ℞ [139], is the “doubtful meal” which causes the conscientious physician Lister so much worry

The CENA, to be sure, was an evening meal, the PRANDIUM, a noon-day meal, a luncheon, any kind of meal; the JENTACULUM, a breakfast, an early luncheon; the MERENDA was a snack in the afternoon between the meals for those who had “earned” a bite

There are further CENAE, such as —— DAPSILIS, —— PELLOCIBILIS, —— UNCTA, —— EPULARIS, —— REGALIS, all more or less generous affairs, and our list of classical and sonorous dinner names is by no means exhausted herewith. The variety of these names is the best proof of how seriously a meal was considered by the ancients, how much thought was devoted to its character and arrangements

CEPA, same as [CAEPA], onion

CEPAEA, purslane, sea-purslane, portulaca

CEPUROS, Gr., gardener; title of Book [III]

CERASUM, cherry, Fr. CERISE; Cerasus is a city of Pontus (Black Sea) whence Lucullus imported the cherry to Rome

CEREBRUM, CEREBELLUM, brains, ℞ [46]

CEREFOLIUM, CAEREFOLIUM, chervil, Ger. KERBEL, Fr. CERFEUILLE

Cereto de Tridino, printer, see [Tacuinus]

CERVUS, stag, venison, ℞ [339-45]

Cesena, a town in Italy where there is an Apicius Ms.; Apiciana [XII]

CHAMAE, cockles

Chamois, ℞ [346] seq.

Charcoal used for filtering, ℞ [1]

CHARTREUSE, ℞ [68], [131], 145a, [186], [469-70]; also see [Carthusian monks] and [Carême]

“Chasseur,” ℞ [263]

Cheese, cottage, ℞ [303]; also see [CASEUS]

Cheltenham codex, Apiciana [I]

Cherries, ℞ [22], see [CERASUS]

Chestnuts, ℞ [183-84a]

Chicken, PULLUS
—— forcemeat, ℞ [50]; —— broth, [51]; —— fricassé, [56]; —— boiled, [235], [236], [242]; —— and dasheens, [244]; —— creamed, with paste, [247]; —— stuffed, [248], [199], [213-17], [235]; —— in cream, [250]; —— disjointed, [139], note 1; —— Bantam, [237]; —— cold, in its own gravy, [237]; —— fried or sauté, [236]; —— Guinea hen, [239]; —— Fricassé Varius, [245]; —— à la Fronto, [246]; —— Parthian style, [237]; —— and leeks, [238]; —— with laser, [240]; —— roast, [241]; —— and pumpkin, [243]; —— galantine, [249]; —— fried with cream sauce, [250]; —— Maryland, Wiener Backhähndl, [250]

Chick-peas, ℞ [207-9]; p. [247]

Chimneys on pies, ℞ [141]

Chipolata garniture, ℞ [378]

CHOENIX, a measure,—2 SEXTARII, ℞ [52]

Chops, ℞ [261]

CHOUX DE BRUXELLES AUX MARRONS, ℞ [92]

Christina, Queen of Sweden, eating Apician dishes, pp. [37], 38

CHRYSOMELUM, CHRYSOMALUM, a sort of quince

CIBARIA, victuals, provisions, food; same as [CIBUS]. Hence CIBARIAE LEGES, sumptuary laws; CIBARIUM VAS, a vessel or container for food; CIBARIUS, relating to food; also CIBATIO, victualling, feeding, meal, repast

CIBARIUM ALBUM, white repast, white dish, blancmange. Fr. BLANC MANGER, “white eating.” A very old dish. Platina gives a fine recipe for it; in Apicius it is not yet developed. The body of this dish is ground almonds and milk, thickened with meat jelly. Modern cornstarch puddings have no longer a resemblance to it; to speak of “chocolate” blancmange as we do, is a barbarism. Platina is proud of his C.A. He prefers it to any Apician dessert. We agree with him; the incomplete Apicius in Platina’s and in our days has no desserts worth mentioning. A German recipe of the 13th century (in “Ein Buch von guter Spise”) calls C.A. “Blamansier,” plainly a corruption of the French. By the translation of C.A. into the French, the origin of the dish was obliterated, a quite frequent occurrence in French kitchen terminology

CIBORIUM, a drinking vessel

CIBUS, food, victuals, provender

CICER, chick-pea, small pulse, ℞ [207-209]

Cicero, famous Roman, ℞ [409]

CICONIA, stork. Although there is no direct mention of the C. as an article of diet it has undoubtedly been eaten same as crane, egrets, flamingo and similar birds

CINARA, CYNARA, artichoke

CINNAMONUM, cinnamon

CIRCELLOS ISICATOS, a sausage, ℞ [65]

CITREA MALA, citron; see [CITRUM]

CITREUS, citron tree

CITRUM, CITRIUM, the fruit of the CITREUS, citron, citrus, ℞ [23], [81], [168]. The citron tree is also MALUS MEDICA. “MALUS QUAE CITRIA VOCANTUR”; CONDITURA MALORUM MEDICORUM, Ap. Book [I].; Lister thinks this is a cucumber

CITRUS, orange or lemon tree and their fruits. It is remarkable that Apicius does not speak of lemons, one of the most indispensable fruits in modern cookery which grow so profusely in Italy today. These were imported into Italy probably later. The ancients called a number of other trees CITRUS also, including the cedar, the very name of which is a corruption of CITRUS

Classic Cookery, pp. [16-17]

CLIBANUS, portable oven; also a broad vessel for bread-making, a dough trough

CNECON, ℞ [16]

CNICOS, CNICUS, CNECUS, bastard saffron; also the blessed thistle

CNISSA, smoke or steam arising from fat or meat while roasting

COCHLEAE, snails, also sea-snails, “cockles,” periwinkles, [323-25]. —— LACTE PASTAE, milk-fed snails. COCHLEARIUM, a snail “farm,” place where snails were raised and fattened for the table. Also a “spoonful,” a measure of the capacity of a small shell, more properly, however, COCHLEAR, a spoon, a spoon-full, ¼ cyathus, the capacity of a small shell, also, properly, a spoon for drawing snails out of the shells. COCHLEOLA, a small snail

COCOLOBIS, basil, basilica

COCTANA, COTANA, COTTANA, COTONA, a small dried fig from Syria

COCTIO, the act of cooking or boiling

COCTIVA CONDIMENTA, easy of digestion, not edible without cooking. COCTIVUS, soon boiled or roasted

COCTOR, [cook], which see; same as [COQUUS]

COCULA, same as [COQUA], a female cook

COCULUM, a cooking vessel

COCUS, COQUUS, [cook], which see

Coelius, name of a person, erroneously attached to that of Apicius; also Caelius, p. [13]

COLADIUM, —EDIUM, —ESIUM, —OESIUM, variations of [COLOCASIUM], which see

Colander, illustration of a, p. [58]

COLICULUS, CAULICULUS, a tender shoot, a small stalk or stem, ℞ [87-92]

COLO, to strain, to filter, cf. ℞ [73]

COLOCASIA, COLOCASIUM, the dasheen, or taro, or tanyah tuber, of which there are many varieties; the root of a plant known to the ancients as Egyptian Bean. Descriptions in the notes to the ℞ [74], [154], [172], [200], [244] and [322]

COLUM NIVARIUM, a strainer or colander for wine and other liquids. See illustration, p. [58]

COLUMBA, female pigeon; COLUMBUS, the male; COLUMBULUS, —A, squab, ℞ [220]. Also used as an endearing term

Columella, writer on agriculture; —— on bulbs, ℞ [307]; —— mentioning Matius, ℞ [167]

COLYMBADES (OLIVAE), olives “swimming” in the brine; from COLYMBUS, swimming pool

Combination of dishes, ℞ [46]

Commentaries on Apicius, p. [272]

Commodus, a Roman, ℞ [197]

Compôte of early fruit, ℞ [177]

CONCHA, shellfish muscle, cockle scallop, pearl oyster; also the pearl itself, or mother-of-pearl; also any hollow vessel resembling a mussel shell (cf. illustration, p. [125]) hence CONCHA SALIS PURI, a salt cellar. Hence also CONCHIS, beans or peas cooked “in the shell” or in the pod; and diminutives and variations: CONCHICLA FABA, (bean in the pod) for CONCHICULA, which is the same as CONCHIS and CONCICLA; ℞ [194-98], [411]. —— APICIANA, ℞ [195]; —— DE PISA, ℞ [196]; —— COMMODIANA, ℞ [197]; —— FARSILIS, ℞ [199]

CONCHICLATUS, ℞ [199]

CONCRESCO, grow together, run together, thicken, congeal, also curdle, etc., same as CONCRETIO, CONCRETUM

CONDIO, to salt, to season, to flavor; to give relish or zest, to spice, to prepare with honey or pepper, and also (since spicing does this very thing) to preserve

CONDITIO, laying up, preserving. CONDITIVUS, that which is laid up or preserved, same as [CONDITUM]

CONDITOR, one who spices. Ger. Konditor, a pastry maker

CONDIMENTARIUS, spice merchant, grocer

CONDIMENTUM, condiment, sauce, dressing, seasoning, pickle, anything used for flavoring, seasoning, pickling —— VIRIDE green herbs, pot herbs; cf. [CONDITURA]. —— PRO PELAMIDE, ℞ [445]; —— PRO THYNNO, ℞ [446]; —— IN PERCAM, ℞ [447]; —— IN RUBELLIONEM, ℞ [448]; —— RATIO CONDIENDI MURENAS, ℞ [449]; —— LACERTOS, ℞ [456]; —— PRO LACERTO ASSO, ℞ [457]; —— THYNNUM ET DENTICEM, ℞ [458]; —— DENTICIS, ℞ [460]; —— IN DENTICE ELIXO, ℞ [461]; —— AURATA, ℞ [462]; —— IN AURATAM ASSAM, ℞ [463]; —— SCORPIONES, ℞ [464]; —— ANGUILLAM, ℞ [466]; —— ALIUD —— ANGUILLAE, ℞ [467]

CONDITUM, preserved, a preserve; cf. [CONDIO]; —— MELIRHOMUM, ℞ [2]; —— ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM, ℞ [3]; —— PARADOXUM, ℞ [1]; —— VIOLARUM, ℞ [5]
—— Paradoxum, facsimile of Vat. Ms., p. [253]

CONDITURA, a pickle, a preserve, sauce, seasoning, marinade; the three terms, C., CONDITUM and CONDIMENTUM are much the same in meaning, and are used indiscriminately. They also designate sweet dishes and desserts of different kinds, including many articles known to us as confections. Hence the German, KONDITOR, for confectioner, pastry cook. Nevertheless, a general outline of the specific meanings of these terms may be gathered from observing the nature of the several preparations listed under these headings, particularly as follows: —— ROSATUM, ℞ [4]; (cf. No. [5]) —— MELLIS, ℞ [17]; —— UVARUM, ℞ [20]; —— MALORUM PUNICORUM, ℞ [21]; —— COTONIORUM, ℞ [19]; —— FICUUM, PRUNORUM, PIRORUM, ℞ [20]; —— MALORUM MEDICORUM, ℞ [21]; —— MORORUM, ℞ [25]; —— OLERUM, ℞ [26]; —— RUMICIS, ℞ [27]; —— LAPAE, ℞ [27]; —— DURACINORUM, ℞ [29]; —— PRUNORUM, etc., ℞ [30]
—in most of these instances corresponds to our modern “preserving”

CONGER, CONGRIO, CONGRUS, sea-eel, conger. CONGRUM QUEM ANTIATES BRUNCHUM APPELLANT,—Platina, cf. [ANGUILLA]. Plautus uses this fish name to characterize a very cunning person, a “slippery” fellow. A cook is thus called CONGRIO in one of his plays

CONILA, CUNILA, a species of the plant ORIGANUM, origany, wild marjoram. See [SATUREIA]

CONYZA, the viscous elecampane

Cook, COCUS, COQUUS is the most frequent form used, COCTOR, infrequent. COQUA, COCULA, female cook; though female cooks were few. The word is derived from COQUERE, to cook, which seems to be an imitation of the sound, produced by a bubbling mess

The cook’s work place (formerly ATRIUM, the “black” smoky room) was the CULINA, the kitchen, hence in the modern Romance tongues CUISINE, CUCINA, COCINA. Those who work there are CUISINIERS, COCINEROS, the female a CUISINIÈRE, and so forth

The German and Swedish for “kitchen” are KÜCHE and KÖKET, but the words “cook” and “KOCH” are directly related to COQUUS

A self-respecting Roman cook, especially a master of the art, having charge of a crew, would assume the title of MAGIRUS, or ARCHIMAGIRUS, chief cook. This Greek—“MAGEIROS”—plainly shows the high regard in which Greek cookery stood in Rome. No American CHEF would think of calling himself “chief cook,” although CHEF means just that. The foreign word sounds ever so much better both in old Rome and in new New York. MAGEIROS is derived from the Greek equivalent of the verb “to knead,” which leads us to the art of baking. Titles and distinctions were plentiful in the ancient bakeshops, which plainly indicates departmentisation and division of labor

The PISTOR was the baker of loaves, the DULCIARIUS the cake baker, using honey for sweetening. Martial says of the PISTOR DULCIARIUS, “that hand will construct for you a thousand sweet figures of art; for it the frugal bee principally labors.” The PANCHESTRARIUS, mentioned in Arnobius, is another confectioner. The LIBARIUS still another of the sweet craft. The CRUSTULARIUS and BOTULARIUS were a cookie baker and a sausage maker respectively

The LACTARIUS is the milkman; the PLACENTARIUS he who makes the PLACENTA, a certain pancake, also a kind of cheese cake, often presented during the Saturnalia. The SCRIBLITARIUS belongs here, too: in our modern parlance we would perhaps call these two “ENTREMETIERS.” The SCRIBLITA must have been a sort of hot cake, perhaps an omelet, a pancake, a dessert of some kind, served hot; maybe just a griddle cake, baked on a hot stone, a TORTILLA—what’s the use of guessing! but SCRIBLITAE were good, for Plautus, in one of his plays, Poenulus, shouts, “Now, then, the SCRIBLITAE are piping hot! Come hither, fellows!” Not all of them did eat, however, all the time, for Posidippus derides a cook, saying, CUM SIS COQUUS, PROFECTUS EXTRA LIMEN ES, CUM NON PRIUS COENAVERIS, “What? Thou art a cook, and hast gone, without dinner, over the threshold?”

From the FOCARIUS, the scullion, the FORNACARIUS, the fireman, or furnace tender, and the CULINARIUS, the general kitchen helper to the OBSONATOR, the steward, the FARTOR to the PRINCEPS COQUORUM, the “maître d’hôtel” of the establishment we see an organization very much similar to our own in any well-conducted kitchen

The Roman cooks, formerly slaves in the frugal days of the nation, rose to great heights of civic importance with the spread of civilization and the advance of luxury in the empire. Cf. “The Rôle of the Mageiroi in the Life of the Ancient Greeks” by E. M. Rankin, Chic., 1907, and “Roman Cooks” by C. G. Harcum, Baltimore, 1914, two monographs on this subject

Cookery, Apician, as well as modern c., discussed in the critical [review] of the Apicius book
—— examples of deceptive c. in Apicius, ℞ [6], [7], [9], [17], [229], [230], [384], [429]
—— of flavoring and spicing, ℞ [15], [277], [281], [369]
—— deserving special mention for ingenuity and excellence, ℞ [15], [21], [22], [72], [88], [177], [186], [212], [213], [214], [250], [287], [315], [428]
—— modern Jewish, resembling Apicius, ℞ [204] seq.
—— examples of attempts to remove disagreeable odors, ℞ [212-14], [229], [230], [292]
—— removing sinews from fowl, ℞ [213]
—— utensils, p. [15]

Coote, C. T., commentator, pp. [19], [273]

COPA, a woman employed in eating places and taverns, a bar maid, a waitress, an entertainer, may be all that in one person. One of the caricatures drawn on a tavern wall in Pompeii depicts a COPA energetically demanding payment for a drink from a reluctant customer, p. [7]

COPADIA, dainties, delicate bits, ℞ [125], [179], [180], [271], [276], seq., [355]

Copper in Vegetable Cookery, ℞ [66]

Copyists and their work, p. [14]

COQUINA, cooking, kitchen. COQUINARIS, —IUS, relating to the kitchen. COQUO, —IS, COXI, COCTUM, COQUERE, to cook, to dress food, to function in the kitchen, to prepare food for the table. See [cook]

COR, heart

CORDYLA, CORDILLA, ℞ [419], [423]

CORIANDRUM, the herb coriander; CORIANDRATUM, flavored with c.; LIQUAMEN EX CORIANDRO, coriander essence or extract

Corn, green, ℞ [99]

CORNUM, cornel berry; “CORNA QUAE VERGILIUS LAPIDOSA VOCAT”—Platina

CORNUTUS, horn-fish, ℞ [442]

CORRUDA, the herb wild sparrage, or wild asparagus

CORVUS, a kind of sea-fish, according to some the sea-swallow. Platina describes it as a black fish of the color of the raven (hence the name), and ranks it among the best of fish, cf. [STURNUS]

COTANA, see [COCTANA]

COTICULA (CAUDA?), minor cuts of pork, either spareribs, pork chops, or pig’s tails

COTONEA, a herb of the CUNILA family, wallwort, comfrey or black bryony

COTONEUM, COTONEUS, COTONIUS, CYDONIUS, quince-apple, ℞ [163]

COTULA, COTYLA, a small measure, ½ sextarius

COTURNIX, quail

COSTUM, COSTUS, costmary; fragrant Indian shrub, the root of burning taste but excellent flavor

Court-bouillon, ℞ 37, [138]

Cow-parsnips, p. [188], ℞ [115-122], [183]

COXA, ℞ [288]

Crabs, ℞ [485]; crabmeat croquettes, ℞ [44]

Cracklings, p. [285], ℞ [255]

Crane, ℞ [212], [213], p. [265]. Crane with turnips, ℞ [214-17]

CRATER, CRATERA, a bowl or vessel to mix wine and water; also a mixing bowl and oil container—see illustrations, p. [140]

CRATICULA, grill, gridiron; illustration, p. [182]

Crême renversée, ℞ [129], [143]

CREMORE, DE—, ℞ [172]

CRETICUM HYSOPUM, ℞ [29], Cretan hyssop

CROCUS, —OS, —ON, —UM, saffron; hence CROCEUS, saffron-flavored, saffron sauce or saffron essence. CROCIS, a certain herb or flavor, perhaps saffron

Croquettes, ℞ [42], seq.

Cucumber, CUCUMIS, ℞ [82-84]

CUCURBITA, pumpkin, gourd, ℞ [73-80], [136]

CULINA, kitchen; CULINARIUS, man employed in the kitchen; pertaining to the kitchen

CULTER, a knife for carving or killing; the blade from 9 to 13 inches long

CUMANA, earthen pot or dish; casserole, ℞ [237]

Cumberland sauce, ℞ [345]

CUMINUM, CYMINUM, cumin; CUMINATUM, —US, sauce or dish seasoned with cumin, ℞ [39], [40]. Aethiopian, Libyan, and Syriac cumin are named, ℞ [178]

CUNICULUS, rabbit, cony

CUNILAGO, a species of origany, flea-bane, wild marjoram, basilica

CUPELLUM, CUPELLA, dim., of CUPA, a small cask or tun. Ger. KUFE; a “cooper” is a man who makes them

CURCUMA ZEODARIA, turmeric

Custard, brain, ℞ [27]; —— nut, ℞ [128], [142]; —— of vegetables and brain, ℞ [130]; —— of elderberries, ℞ [134]; —— rose, ℞ [135]; see also ℞ [301]

Cutlets, ℞ [261], [471-3]

Cuttle-fish, ℞ [42], [406-8]

CYAMUS, Egyptian bean

CYATHUS, a measure, for both things liquid and things dry, which according to Pliny 21.109, amounted to 10 drachms, and, according to Rhem. Fann. 80., was the 12th part of a SEXTARIUS, roughly one twelfth pint. Also a goblet, and a vessel for mixing wine, ℞ [131]

CYDONIIS, PATINA DE, ℞ [163], see also [Malus]

CYMA, young sprout, of colewort or any other herb; also cauliflower, ℞ [87-9-92]

CYPERUS, CYPIRUS, a sort of rush with roots like ginger, see [MEDIUM]

CYRENE, a city of Africa, famous for its Laser Cyrenaicum, the best kind of [laser], which see. Also [Kyrene]

D

DACTYLIS, long, “finger-like” grape or raisin; —US, long date, fruit of a date tree, ℞ [30]

DAMA, a doe, deer, also a gazelle, antilope (DORCAS). In some places the chamois of the Alps is called DAMA

DAMASCENA [PRUNA], plum or prune from Damascus, ℞ [30]. Either fresh or dried

Danneil, E., editor, pp. [33-34], [35], [271]

Dasheen, ℞ [74], [152], [172], [216], [244], [322]

Dates, stuffed, ℞ [294]

DAUCUM, —US, —ON, a carrot

DE CHINE, see [Dasheen]

“Decline of the West,” p. [17]

DECOQUO, to boil down

DEFRUTARIUS, one who boils wine; CELLA DEFRUTARIA, a cellar where this is done, or where such wine is kept

DEFRUTUM, DEFRICTUM, DEFRITUM, new wine boiled down to one half of its volume with sweet herbs and spices to make it keep. Used to flavor sauces, etc., see also [Caramel color]

DENTEX, a sparoid marine fish, “Tooth-Fish,” ℞ [157], [459-60]

Dessert Dishes, illustrations, pp. [61], [125]

Desserts, absent, p. [43]

Desserts, Apician, ℞ [143], [294], seq.

DIABOTANON PRO PISCE FRIXO, ℞ [432]

Diagram of Apician editions, p. [252]

Didius Julianus, ℞ [178]

Dierbach, H. J., commentator, p. [273]

Dining in Apician style, modern, p. [37]
—— in Rome, compared with today, pp. [17], [18]

Diocles, writer, ℞ [409]

Dionysos Cup, illustration, p. [141]

Dipper, illustrated, p. [3]

DISCUS, round dish, plate or platter

Disguising foods, ℞ 133, pp. [33-4]

Distillation, see [Vinum]

Dormouse, ℞ [396]

Dory, ℞ [157], [462-5]

Doves, p. [265]

Drexel, Theodor, collector, pp. [257-8]

Dubois, Urbain, chef, p. [16]

Duck, p. [265], ℞ [212-3]; —— with turnips, ℞ [214-7]

DULCIA, sweets, cookies, confections, ℞ [16], [216], [294-6]
—RIUS, pastry cook, ℞ [294]

Dumas, Alexandre, cooking, p. [24]

Dumpling of pheasant, ℞ [48]; —— and HYDROGARUM, ℞ [49]; —— with broth, plain, ℞ [52], [181]

DURACINUS, hard-skinned, rough-skinned fruit; —— PERSICA, the best sort of peach, according to some, nectarines, ℞ [28]

E

Early fruit, stewed, ℞ [177]

ECHINUS, sea-urchin, ℞ [412-17]

Economical methods: flavoring, ℞ [15]

EDO, to eat; great eater, gormandizer, glutton

EDULA, chitterlings

Eel, ℞ [466-7]

Egg Dish, illustration, p. [93]

Eggs, ℞ [326-28]; —— fried, ℞ [336]; —— boiled, ℞ [327]; —— poached, ℞ [328]; —— scrambled with fish and oysters, ℞ [159]

Eglantine, ℞ [171]

Egyptian Bean, ℞ [322]; also see [CYAMUS]

EIERKÄSE, ℞ [125], [301]

ELAEOGARUM, ℞ [33]

Elderberry custard, ℞ [135]

ELIXO, to boil, boil down, reduce. —US, —UM, boiled down, sodden, reduced. According to Platina an ELIXUM simply is a meat bouillon as it is made today. ELIXATIO, a court-bouillon, liquid boiled down; ELIXATURA, a reduction

EMBAMMA, a marinade, a pickle or sauce to preserve food, to give it additional flavor; same as [INTINCTUS], ℞ [344]

EMBRACTUM, EMPHRACTUM, a dish “covered over”; a casserole of some kind. E. BAIANUM, ℞ [431]

Endives, ℞ [109]

Enoche of Ascoli, medieval scholar, cf. [Apiciana]

Entrées, potted, ℞ [54], [55]; —— sauces, ℞ [56]; —— of fish, poultry and sausage, ℞ [139]; —— of fowl and livers, ℞ [175]

EPIMELES, careful, accurate; choice things. Title of Book [I]

Erasmus of Rotterdam, Dialogue, p. [273]

ERUCA, the herb rocket, a colewort, a salad plant, a mustard plant

ERVUM, a kind of pulse like vetches or tares

ESCA, meat, food, victuals; ESCO, to eat

Escoffier, A. modern chef, writer, ℞ [338]

ESCULENTES, things good to eat

ESTRIX, she-glutton

ESUS, eating

Every Day Dishes, ℞ [128], [142]

EXCERPTA A VINIDARIO, p. [235]

Excerpts from Apicius by Vinidarius, pp. [21], [234]

EXCOQUO, to boil out, to melt, to render (fats)

F

FABA, bean, pulse. —— AEGYPTIACA, ℞ [322]; —— IN FRIXORIO, string beans in the frying pan, Fr.: HARICOTS VERTS SAUTÉS; —— VITELLIANA, ℞ [189], [193]

FABACIAE VIRIDES, green bean, ℞ [202]; —— FRICTAE, ℞ [203]; —— EX SINAPI, ℞ [204]

Fabricius, Albertus, bibliographer, pp. [258], seq., [268]

“Fakers” of manuscripts, p. [13]

FALSCHER HASE, ℞ [384]

FAR, corn or grain of any kind, also spelt; also a sort of coarse meal

Farce, forcemeat, ℞ [131]

FARCIMEN, sausage, ℞ [62-64]

FARCIO, to fill, to stuff; also to feed by force, cram, fatten

FARINA, meal, flour, ℞ [173]; —OSUS, mealy

FARNEI FUNGI, ℞ [309]

FARRICA, ℞ [173]

FASEOLUS, PHASEOLUS, a bean; Ger.: Fisole, ℞ [207]

FARSILIS, FARTILIS, a rich dish, something crammed or fattened, ℞ [131]

FARTOR, sausage maker; keeper of animals to be fattened, ℞ [166], [366]

FARTURA, the fattening of animals; also the dressing used to stuff the bodies in roasting, forcemeat, ℞ [166], [366]

FATTENING FOWL, ℞ [166], [366]

FENICOPTERO, IN, ℞ [220], [231]

FENICULUM, FOENI—, fennel

FENUM GRAECUM, FOEN—; the herb fenugreek, also SILICIA, ℞ [206]

FERCULUM, a frame or tray on which several dishes were brought in at once, hence a course of dishes

FERULA, a rod or branch, fennel-giant; —— ASA FOETIDA, same as [LASERPITIUM]

FICATUM, fed or stuffed with figs, ℞ [259-60]

FICEDULA, small bird, figpecker, ℞ [132]

FICUS, fig, fig tree, FICULA, small fig

Field herbs, ℞ [107]; Field salad, ℞ [110]; a dish of field vegetables, ℞ [134]

Fieldfare, a bird, ℞ [497]

Fig-fed pork, p. [285], ℞ [259]

Figpecker, a bird, ℞ [132]

Figs, to preserve, ℞ [22]

Filets Mignons, ℞ [262]

Filtering liquors, ℞ [1]

Financière garniture, ℞ [166], [378]

Fine ragout of brains and bacon, ℞ [147]

Fine spiced wine, ℞ [1]

Fish cookery, “The Fisherman,” title of Book [X]; —— boiled, ℞ [432], [4], [5], [6], [455]; —— fried, herb sauce, ℞ [433]; —— to preserve fried fish, ℞ [13]; —— with cold dressing, ℞ [486]; —— baked, ℞ [476-7]; —— balls in wine sauce, ℞ [145], [164]; —— fond, ℞ [155]; a dish of any kind of ——, ℞ [149], [150], [156]; —— au gratin, ℞ [143]; —— loaf, ℞ [429]; —— liver pudding, ℞ [429]; —— pickled, spiced, marinated, ℞ [480]; —— oysters and eggs, ℞ [157]; —— salt, any style, ℞ [430], [431]; stew, ℞ [153], [432]; —— sauce, acid, ℞ [38-9]

FISKE BOLLER, ℞ [145], [41], seq.

Flaccus, a Roman, ℞ [372]

Flamingo, ℞ [220], [231-2]

Flavors and spices, often referred to, especially in text; instances of careful flavoring, ℞ [15], [276-77]. Flavoring with faggots, ℞ [385], seq.

Florence Mss. Apiciana [VI], [VII], [VIII], [IX]

FLORES SAMBUCI, elder blossoms

Fluvius Hirpinus, Roman, ℞ [323], [396]; a man interested in raising snails, dormice, etc., for the table

FOCUS, hearth, range; unusually built of brick, on which the CRATICULA stood. Cf. illustrations, p. [182]

FOLIUM, leaf, aromatic leaves such as laurel, etc. —— NARDI, several kinds, nard leaf. The Indian nard furnishes nard oil, the Italian lavender

FONDULI, see [SPHONDULI], ℞ [114], [121]

Food adulterations, pp. [33], [34]

Food disguising and adulteration, p. [33], ℞ [6], [7], [134], [147];
—— displayed in Pompeii, p. [7]

Forcemeats, ℞ [42], [172]

Fowl, p. [265]; a dish of, ℞ [470]; —— and livers, ℞ [174]; various dishes and sauce, ℞ [218], seq. Picking ——, ℞ [233]; Removing disagreeable odors from ——, ℞ [229-30]

French Dressing, ℞ [112]

French Toast, ℞ [296]

FRETALE, FRIXORIUM, FRICTORIUM, frying pan, illustrations, pp. [355], [366]; cf. [SARTAGO]

FRICTELLA, fritter; “A FRICTO DICI NULLA RATIO OBSTAT”—Platina. Ger. “Frikadellen” for meat balls fried in the pan. “De OFFELLIS, QUAS VEL FRICTELLAS LICET APPELLARE”—Platina

FRICTORIUM, FRIXORIUM, same as [FRETALE], frying pan

FRISILIS, FRICTILIS, FUSILIS, ℞ [131]

FRITTO MISTO (It.), ℞ [46]

Friture, (Fr.) frying fat, ℞ [42], seq.

FRIXUS, roast, fried, also dried or parched, term which causes some confusion in the several editions

Frontispice, 2nd Lister Edition, illustration, p. [156]

Fronto, a Roman, ℞ [246], [374]

FRUGES, farinaceous dishes

Fruit dishes, ℞ 64, 72; Fruits, p. [210]; —— dried, Summary, p. [370]
—— Bowl illustration, pp. [61], [125]

FRUMENTUM, grain, wheat or barley

Frying, ℞ [42], seq.

Frying pans, illustrated, cf. [FRETALE] and [SARTAGO]

Fulda Ms., cf. [Apiciana]

FUNGUS, mushroom; —ULUS, small m.; see [BOLETUS] —— FARNEI, ℞ [309], seq.

FURCA, a two-pronged fork; —ULA, —ILLA (dim.) a small fork. FUSCINA, —ULA, a three-pronged fork. Cf. “Forks and Fingerbowls as Milestones in Human Progress,” by the author, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, Chicago, Aug., 1933, pp. 84-87

FURNUS, oven, bake oven. See illustration, p. [2]

G

Galen, writer, ℞ [396], [410]

GALLINA, hen; —ULA, little hen; —ARIUS, poulterer

GALLUS, cock

Game of all kinds, sauce for, ℞ [349]
—— birds, ℞ [218], seq.

GANONAS CRUDAS, fish, ℞ [153]

GARATUM, prepared with [GARUM], which see

Gardener, The—Title of Book [III], ℞ [377]

GARUM (Gr.: GARON) a popular fish sauce made chiefly of the scomber or mackerel, but formerly from the GARUS, hence the name, cf. p. [22], ℞ [10], [33], [471]

Mackerel is the oiliest fish, and plentiful, very well suited for the making of G.

G. was also a pickle made of the blood and the gills of the tunny and of the intestines of mackerel and other fish. The intestines were exposed to the sun and fermented. This has stirred up controversies; the ancients have been denounced for the “vile concoctions,” but garum has been vindicated by modern science as to its rational preparation and nutritive qualities. Codfish oil, for instance, has long been known for its medicinal properties, principally Vitamin D; this is being increased today by exposure to ultraviolet rays (just what the ancients did). The intestines are the most nutritious portions of fish

G. still remains a sort of mystery. Its exact mode of preparation is not known. It was very popular and expensive, therefore was subject to a great number of variations in quality and in price, and to adulteration. For all these reasons GARUM has been the subject of much speculation. It appears that the original meaning of G. became entirely lost in the subsequent variations

In 1933 Dr. Margaret B. Wilson sent the author a bottle of GARUM ROMANUM which she had compounded according to the formulae at her disposal. This was a syrupy brown liquid, smelled like glue and had to be dissolved in water or wine, a few drops of the G. to a glass of liquid, of which, in turn, only a few drops were used to flavor a fish sauce, etc.

—— SOCIORUM, the best kind of G.; ALEXGARI VITIUM, the cheap kind of G., cf. [ALEX], HALEC. OENOGARUM, G. mixed with wine; HYDROGARUM, G. mixed with water; OLEOGARUM, G. mixed with oil; OXYGARUM, G. mixed with vinegar

GARUS, small fish from which the real GARUM was made

GELO, cause to freeze, to congeal; GELU, jelly
GELU IN PATINA, gelatine: “QUOD VULGO GELATINAM VOCAMUS”—Platina

Georg, Carl, Bibliographer, p. [257]

Gesamt-Katalog, bibliography, p. [261]

Gesner, Conrad, Swiss scientist, bibliographer, polyhistor, see [Schola Apitiana], p. [206]

GETHYUM, —ON, same as [PALLACANA], an onion

Giarratano, C., editor, Apiciana, pp. [18], [19], [26], [271], [273]

GINGIBER, ginger; also ZINGIBER, faulty reading of the “G” by medieval scribes

GINGIDON, —IUM, a plant of Syria; according to Spengel the French carrot. Paulus Aegineta says: “BISACUTUM (SIC ENIM ROMANI GINGIDION APPELLANT) OLUS EST SCANDICI NON ABSIMILE,” hence a chervil root, or parsnip, or oysterplant

GLANDES, any kernel fruit, a date, a nut, etc.

Glasse, Mrs. Hannah, writer, ℞ [127]

GLIS, pl. GLIRES, dormouse, a small rodent, very much esteemed as food. GLIRARIUM, cage or place where they were kept or raised, ℞ [396]

Gluttons, p. [11]

Goat, wild, ℞ [346], seq. —— liver, ℞ [291-3]

Gollmer, R., editor, Apiciana, pp. [18], [35], [270]

GONG for slaves, illustration, p. [151]

Goose, p. [265]; white sauce for, ℞ [228]

Grapes, to keep, ℞ [19]

Greek influence on Roman cookery, p. [12], seq.
—— Banquet, by Anacharsis, p. [8]

Greek monographs, p. [43]

Green beans, p. [247], ℞ [202], [206]

Greens, green vegetables, ℞ [99]

Grimod de la Reynière, writer, p. [4], cf. [Mappa]

Gruel, p. [210]; ℞ [172], [200-1], seq. —— and wine, ℞ [179-80]

GRUS, crane; GRUEM, ℞ [212-3]; —— EX RAPIS, ℞ [215-6]

Gryphius, S., printer, Apiciana No. [6], facsimile of title, p. [263]

Guégan, Bertrand, editor, p. [271], seq.

Guinea Hen, ℞ [239], cf. “Turkey Origin,” by the author, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, for February and March, 1935, Chicago

GULA, gluttony

GUSTUS, taste; also appetizers and relishes and certain entrées of a meal, Hors d’oeuvres. Cf. [CENA], ℞ [174-77]

H

Habs, R., writer, p. [18]

HAEDUS, HAEDINUS, kid, ℞ [291-3], [355], seq.
—— SYRINGIATUS, ℞ [360]; —— PARTHICUM, ℞ [364]; —— TARPEIANUM, ℞ [363]; —— LAUREATUM EX LACTE, ℞ [365]; —— LASARATUM, ℞ [496]

HALEC, see [ALEC]

HALIEUS, HALIEUTICUS, pertaining to fish; title of Book [X], p. [356]

Ham, fresh, p. [285], ℞ [287-9]

HAND-MILL, operated by Slaves, illustration, p. [60]

HAPANTAMYNOS, ℞ [497]

Harcum, C. G., writer, see [COQUUS]

Hard-skinned peaches, to keep, ℞ [28]

Hare, B. [VIII], ℞ [382], seq. —— imitation, ℞ [384]; —— braised, ℞ [382-3]; —— different dressings, ℞ [383]; —— Stuffed, ℞ [384], [91]; —— white sauce for, ℞ [385]; —— lights of, ℞ [386-7]; —— liver, ℞ [170]; —— in its own broth, ℞ [388]; —— smoked Passenianus, ℞ [389]; —— tidbits, kromeskis, ℞ [390]; —— boiled, ℞ [393]; —— spiced sauce, ℞ [393]; —— sumptuous style, ℞ [394]; —— spiced, ℞ [395]

Haricot of lamb, ℞ [355]

HARPAGO, a meat hook for taking boiled meat out of the pot, with five or more prongs; hence “harpoon.” Cf. [FURCA]

“Haut-goût” in birds, to overcome it, ℞ [229-30]

Headcheese, ℞ [125]

Heathcock, ℞ [218], seq.

HELENIUM, plant similar to thyme(?); the herb elecampane or starwort

Heliogabalus, emperor, p. [11]

HEMINA, a measure, about half a pint

Henry VIII, of England, edict on kitchens, p. [156]

HERBAE RUSTICAE, ℞ [107]

Herbs, pot herbs, to keep, ℞ [25]

Hildesheim Treasure, found in 1868, a great collection of Roman silverware, now in the Kaiser Friedrich Museum, Berlin, our illustrations show a number of these pieces, p. [43]

Hip, dog-briar, ℞ [171]

HIRCOSIS AVIBUS, DE, ℞ [229-30]

Hirpinus, Fluvius, Roman, ℞ [323], [396], who raised animals for the table

HISPANUM, see [Oleum]

HOEDUS, see [HAEDUS]

HOLERA, pot herbs, ℞ [25], [66]; also OLERA and HOLISERA, from HOLUS

HOLUS, OLUS, kitchen vegetables, particularly cabbage, ℞ [99]

Home-made sweets, ℞ [294]

Honey cakes, ℞ [16]

Honey Refresher, ℞ [2]; —— cake, ℞ [16]; —— to renew spoiled, ℞ [17]; testing quality of, ℞ [18]; —— pap, ℞ [181]; see also Chap. [XIII], Book [VII]

Horace, writer, pp. 3, [4], [273], ℞ [455]

HORDEUM, barley

Horned fish, ℞ [442]

Hors d’oeuvres, ℞ [174]; cf. [GUSTUS]

HORTULANUS, gardener, Hortolanus, pork, ℞ [378]

Horseradish, ℞ [102]

House of the Oven in Pompeii, illustration, p. [2]

Humelbergius, Gabriel, editor, ℞ [307]; title page of his 1542 edition, p. [265]

Hunter style, ℞ [263]

HYDROGARATA, foods, sauces prepared with [GARUM] (which see) and water, ℞ [172]

HYDROMELI, rain water and honey boiled down one third

HYPOTRIMA, —IMMA, a liquid dish, soup, sauce, ragout, composed of many spiced things, ℞ [35]

HYSITIUM, ISICIUM, a mince, a hash, a sausage, forcemeat, croquette, ℞ [41-56]. The term “croquette” used by Gollmer does not fully cover H.; some indeed, resemble modern croquettes and kromeskis very closely. The ancients, having no table forks and only a few knives (which were for the servants’ use in carving) were fond of such preparations as could be partaken of without table ware. The reclining position at table made it almost necessary for them to eat H.; such dishes gave the cooks an opportunity for the display of their skill, inventive ability, their decorative and artistic sense. As “predigested” food, such dishes are decided preferable to the “grosses-pièces,” which besides energetic mastication require skillful manipulation of fork and knife; such exercise was unwelcome on the Roman couches. Modern nations, featuring “grosses-pièces” do this at the expense of high-class cookery. The word, H., is probably a medieval graecification of INSICIUM. Cf. [ISICIA]

HYSSOPUS, the herb hyssop; H. CRETICUS, marjoram. Also Hysopum creticum, hyssop from the island of Creta, ℞ [29]

I

IECUR, JECUR, liver; ℞ [291-3]. IECUSCULUM, small (poultry, etc.) liver

Ihm, Max, writer, p. [19]

Ill-smelling fish sauce, ℞ [9]; ditto birds, ℞ [229-30]

Indian peas, ℞ [187]

Ink-fish, ℞ [405]

INSICIA, chopped meat, sausage, forcemeat, dressing, stuffing for roasts, ℞ [42]; see [Hysitia] and [Isicia]; —ARIUS, sausage maker

INTINCTUS, a sauce, seasoning, brine or pickle in which meat, etc., is dipped. See [EMBAMMA], ℞ [344]

INTUBUS, INTYBUS, —UM, chicory, succory, endive, ℞ [109]

INULA HELENIUM, the herb elecampane or starwort

ISICIA, see [HYSITIA], ℞ [41-54], [145]
—— AMULATA AB AHENO, ℞ [54]; —— DE CAMMARIS, ℞ [43]; —— DE CEREBELLIS, ℞ [45]; —— DE LOLLIGINE, ℞ [42]; —— DE SPONDYLIS, ℞ [46]; —— DE PULLO, ℞ [50]; —— DE SCILLIS, ℞ [43]; —— HYDROGARATA, ℞ [49]; —— PLENA, ℞ [48]; —— SIMPLEX, ℞ [52]; —— DE TURSIONE, ℞ [145]

Italian Salad, ℞ [123]

IUS, JUS, any juice or liquid, or liquor derived from food, a broth, soup, sauce. IUSCELLUM, more frequently and affectionately, IUSCULUM, the diminutive of I.
—— DE SUO SIBI, pan-gravy; such latinity as this proves the genuineness of the Apicius text, ℞ [153]; —— IN DIVERSIS AVIBUS, ℞ [210-228]; —— IN ELIXAM, ℞ [271-7]; —— IN VENATIONIBUS, ℞ [349], seq. —— DIABOTANON, ℞ [432]; —— IN PISCE ELIXO, ℞ [433-6]; —— ALEXANDRINUM, ℞ [437-9]; —— CONGRO, ℞ [440]; —— IN CORNUTAM, ℞ [441]; —— IN MULLOS, ℞ [442-3]; —— PELAMYDE, ℞ [444]; —— IN PERCAM, ℞ [446]; —— IN MURENA, ℞ [448], [449-52]; —— IN PISCE ELIXO, ℞ [454]; —— IN LACERTOS ELIXOS, ℞ [455]; —— PISCE ASSO, ℞ [456]; —— THYNNO, ℞ [457]; —— ELIXO, ℞ [458]; —— IN DENTICE ASSO, ℞ [459-60]; —— IN PISCE AURATA, ℞ [461-2]; —— IN SCORPIONE, ℞ [463]; —— PISCE OENOGARUM, ℞ [464-5]; —— ANGUILLAM, ℞ [466-7]

J

Jardinière, ℞ [378]

JECINORA, ℞ [291]

Jewish Cookery, compared with Apician, ℞ [205]

Johannes de Cereto de Tridino, Venetian printer, p. [261]

John of Damascus, see [Torinus edition] of 1541, Basel

Julian Meal Mush, ℞ [178]

K

Keeping meat and fish, ℞ [10-14], seq.

Kettner, writer, p. [38]

Kid, p. [314], ℞ [355], seq. —— liver, ℞ [291-93]; —— stew, ℞ [355-8]; —— roast, ℞ [359-62]; —— boned, ℞ [360-1]; —— Tarpeius, ℞ [363-4]; —— Prize, ℞ [365]; —— plain, ℞ [366]; —— laser, ℞ [496]

Kidney beans, ℞ [207-8]

King, Dr. W., writer, quoted: [Introduction], pp. [38], [267]

Kromeskis, ℞ [44], [47], [60]; cf. [ISICIA] and [HYSITIA]

Kyrene, Cyrene, City of Northern Africa, see [Laser]

L

Labor item in cookery, pp. [18], [24]

LAC, milk; —— FISSILE, cottage cheese

LACERTUS, a sea-fish, not identified, ℞ [147], [152], [455-7]

LACTARIS, having milk, made of milk; —IUS, dairyman

LACTES, small guts, chitterlings

LACTUA, LACTUCULA, lettuce, ℞ [105], [109-11]

LAGANUM, a certain farinaceous dish; small cake made of flour and oil, a pan cake

LAGENA, —ONA, —OENA, —UNA, flask, bottle

Lamb, ℞ [291-3], [355-65], [495-6]; preparations same as [Kid], which see

Lambecius, Petrus, writer, on “The Porker’s Last Will,” ℞ [376]

Lanciani, Rodolfo, writer, pp. [29], [30]

Lancilotus, Blasius, co-editor, 1498-1503 editions, pp. [27-30], [41]
—see also [Tacuinus]
—facsimile of opening chapter, 1503, p. [232]

Langoust, ℞ [485]

LANX, broad platter, dish, charger, ℞ [455]

LAPA, LAPATHUM, LAPADON, same as [RUMEX], ℞ [26]

Larding, ℞ [394]

LARIDUM, LARDUM, ℞ [147], [290]; cf. [SALSUM]

LASER, LASERPITIUM, —ICIUM, the juice or distillate of the herb by that name, also known as SILPHIUM, SYLPHIUM, Greek, SYLPHION. Some agree that this is our present asa foetida, while other authorities deny this. Some claim its home is in Persia, while others say the best LASER came from Cyrene (Kyrene), Northern Africa. The center picture of the so-called Arkesilas-Bowl of Vulci at Paris, Cab. d. Méd. 189, represents a picture as seen by the artist in Kyrene how King Arkesilas (VI. saec.) watches the weighing and the stowing away in the hold of a sailing vessel of a costly cargo of sylphium. It was an expensive and very much esteemed flavoring agent, and, for that reason, the plant which grew only in the wild state, was probably exterminated

There is much speculation, but its true nature will not be revealed without additional information

[15], [31], [32], [34], [100]; p. [22]

Method of flavoring with laser-impregnated nuts, ℞ [15]

LASERATUS, LASARATUS, prepared or seasoned with LASER, or SILPHIUM

Latin title of Vehling translation, [opposite title page]

LAUREATUM, prepared with LAURUS; also in the sense of excellence in quality, ℞ [365], [373]

LAURUS CINNAMOMUM, cinnamon; —— NOBILIS, laurel leaf, bay leaf

La Varenne, French cook, p. [16]

Laws, sumptuary, p. [25], ℞ [166]

Laxatives, ℞ [4], [5], [6], [29], [34]

Leeks, p. [188], ℞ [93-6]; —— and beans, ℞ [96]

LEGUMEN, leguminous plants; all kinds of pulse-peas, beans lentils, etc., Book [V]

LENS, LENTICULA, lentils, ℞ [183-4]

LEPIDIUM SATIVUM, watercress

LEPOREM MADIDUM, ℞ [382], seq. —— FARSUM, ℞ [384]; —— PASSENIANUM, ℞ [389]; —— ISICIATUM, ℞ [390]; —— FARSILEM, ℞ [391]; —— ELIXIUM, ℞ [392]; —— SICCO SPARSUM, ℞ [394]; —— LEPORIS CONDITURA, ℞ [393-5]

LEPUS, hare; LEPUSCULUM, young hare; LEPORARIUM, a place for keeping hare; LEPORINUM MINUTAL, minced hare, Hasenpfeffer, ℞ [382-395]

Lettuce, B. [V], ℞ [105], [109-111]; —— and endives, ℞ [109]; —— purée of, ℞ [130]

LEUCANTHEMIS, camomile

LEUCOZOMUS, “creamed,” prepared with milk, ℞ [250]

Lex Fannia, ℞ [166]

Liaison, lié, ℞ [54]; cf. [AMYLARE]

LIBELLI, little ribs, spare ribs, also loin of pork, ℞ [251]

LIBRA, weight, 1 pound (abb. “lb.” still in use); LIBRAE, balances, scales

LIBURNICUM, see oil, [oleum]

LIGUSTICUM, lovage (from Liguria) also LEVISTICUM; identical with garden lovage, savory, basilica, satury, etc.

LIQUORIBUS, DE, p. [370]

LIQUAMEN, any kind of culinary liquid, depending upon the occasion. It may be interpreted as brine, stock, gravy, jus, sauce, drippings, marinade, natural juice; it must be interpreted in the broadest sense, as the particular instance requires. This much disputed term has been illustrated also in page [22]. Also see ℞ [9], [42]

Liquids, Summary of, p. [370]
—— thickening of, by means of flour, eggs, etc., called Liaison, cf. [AMYLARE]

Lister, Dr. Martinus, editor, edition of 1705, title page, ditto, verso of, ditto of 1709, p. [38]; [frontispice]
—— quoted in many foot notes, ℞ [8], seq.
—— assailing Torinus, p. [13], ℞ [15], [26], [100], [205]
—— edition, 1709, facsimile, p. [250]

Liver kromeskis, ℞ [44]; fig-fed, of pig, ℞ [259-60]; —— and lungs, ℞ [291-3]; —— hash, ℞ [293]; —— of fish, see [GARUM] and [Pollio]

Lobster, ℞ [398], [399], [400], [401], [2]; in various ways

LOCUSTA, a langoust, spiny lobster, large lobster without claws; ℞ [397-402], [485]; —— ASSAE, ℞ [398]; —— ELIXAE, ℞ [399], [401-2]

Loins, p. [285], ℞ [286]

LOLIGO, LOLLIGO, calamary, cuttle-fish, ℞ [42], [405]

LOLIUM, LOLA, darnel, rye-grass, ray-grass, meal. The seeds of this grass were milled, the flour or meal believed to possess some narcotic properties, as stated by Ovid and Plautus, but recent researches have cast some doubt upon its reported deleterious qualities. Apicius, ℞ [50], reads LOLAE FLORIS

LONGANO, a blood sausage, ℞ [61]. The LONGANONES PORCINOS EX IURE TARENTINO in ℞ [140] is a part of the PATINA EX LACTE; a pork sausage made in Tarent of the straight gut, the rectum. Lister says they are cooked in Tarentinian sauce and are not unlike the sausage called APEXABO and HILLA. These sausages were in vogue before the Italians learned to make them; it was in Epirus, Greece, that they were highly developed. Their importation into Rome caused quite a stir, politically. Lister, ℞ 50, p. 119, describes the sausage and calls the inhabitants of Tarent “most voluptuous, soft and delicate” because Juvenal, Sat. VI, v. 297, takes a shot at Tarent

This part of Italy, and especially Sicily, because in close contact with Greece was for many years much farther advanced in art of cookery than the North

Lucania, district of lower Italy whence came the Lucanian sausage, p. [172], ℞ [61]; see also [LONGANO]

LUCIUS FLUVIALIS, a river fish, perch, or pike, according to some; Platina also calls it LICIUS. Cf. [MERULA]

Lucretian Dish, ℞ [151]

Lucullus, Roman general, proverbial glutton, has a place here because of his importation into Rome of the cherry, which he discovered in Asia Minor. He cannot be expected to be represented in the Apicius book because he died 57 B.C.

LUCUSTA, see [LOCUSTA]

LUMBUS, loin, (Ger. LUMMEL), ℞ [286]; LUMBELLI, ℞ [255]

Lung, ℞ [291-2]

LUPINUS, lupine

LUPUS, fish, ℞ [158]

M

MACELLARIUS, MACELLINUS, market man, butcher

MACELLUM, market

MACERO, to soak, soften, steep in liquor, macerate; MACERATUM, food thus treated

MACTRA, trough for kneading dough

MAGIRUS, MAGEIROS, cook, see [COQUUS]

MALABATHRUM —THRON, ℞ [32], [399]

Mallows, ℞ [86]

MALUS, fruit tree, apple tree; —— PUNICORUM, pomegranate; —— ASSYRIA, —— CITRUS DECUMANA, one of the larger citrus fruits; —— MEDICA, citron tree; —— CYDONIA, quince tree

MALUM, fruit, an apple, but quinces, pomegranates, peaches, oranges, lemons, and other fruits were likewise designated by this name. ℞ [18], [20]. See also [CITRUM]

It is remarkable that Apicius does not specifically speak of lemons and oranges, fruits that must have grown in Italy at his time, that are so indispensable to modern cookery

MALUM PUNICUM, ℞ [20], [21]; —— CYDONIUM, ℞ [21]; —— GRANATUM, ℞ [20]; —— MEDICUM, ℞ [24]; —— ROSEUM, ℞ [178], [171]. This name, which according to Schuch simply stands for a rose-colored apple, has led to the belief that the ancients made pies, etc., of roses. Today a certain red-colored apple is known as “Roman Beauty.” We concur in Schuch’s opinion, remembering, however, that the fruit of the rose tree, namely the hip, dog-briar, or eglantine, is made into dainty confections on the Continent today. It is therefore quite possible that MALUM ROSEUM stands for the fruit of the rose

MANDUCO, to chew, to munch, to enjoy food by munching; a glutton

MAPPA, table napkin (Fr. nappe). M. is a Punic word, according to Quintil. 1, 5, 57

Each banquet guest brought with him from his own home such a napkin or cloth which he used during the banquet to wipe his mouth and hands. The ancients, evidently, were conscious of the danger of infection through the common use of napkins and table ware. Sometimes they used their napkins to wrap up part of the meal and to give it to their slaves to carry home in. Horace, Martial, Petronius attest to this fact. The banquet guests also employed their own slaves to wait on them at their Host’s party. This custom and the individual napkin habit have survived until after the French revolution. Grimod de la Reynière, in his Almanach des Gourmands, Paris, 1803, seq., describes how guests furnished their own napkins and servants for their own use at parties to which they were invited

This rather sensible custom relieved the host of much responsibility and greatly assisted him in defraying the expenses of the dinner. On the other hand it reveals the restrictions placed upon any host by the general shortage of table ware, table linen, laundering facilities in the days prior to the mechanical age

Marcellus, a Roman physician, ℞ [29]

Marinade, pickle; a composition of spices, vegetables, herbs, and liquids, such as vinegar, wine, to preserve meats for several days and to impart to it a special flavor, ℞ [11], [236], [244], [394]; cf. [EMBAMMA]

MARJORANA, marjoram

Marmites, illustrated, pp. [264], [284], [312], [342]

MARRUBIUM, the plant horehound

Martial, writer, p. [10], ℞ [307], [461] (on bulbs)

Martino, Maestro, p. [3], cf. Vehling: Martino and Platina, Exponents of Renaissance Cookery, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, Chicago, October, 1932, and Platina, Maestro nell’arte culinaria Un’interessante studio di Joseph D. Vehling, Cremona, 1935

Mason, Mrs., a writer, ℞ [126]

MASTIX, MASTICE, MASTICHE, the sweet-scented gum of the mastiche-tree; hence MASTICATUS, MASTICINUS for foods treated with M.

Matius, a writer, was a friend of Julius Caesar. His work is lost, ℞ [167]; apples named after him, ibid.

MAYONNAISE DE VOLAILLE EN ASPIC, ℞ [126], [480]

Meal mush, Book [V], ℞ [178]

Measures, liquid. The following list is confined to terms used in Apicius
PARTES XV equal 1 CONGIUS
CONGIUS I equal 6 SEXTARII (1 S. equals about 1½ pt. English)
SEXTARII II equal 1 CHOENIX
SEXTARIUS I equal 2 HEMINAS
HEMINA I equal 4 ACETABULA
ACETABULUM I equal 12 CYATHI (15 Attic drachms)
CYATHUS I equal 1/12 SEXTARIUS (a cup)
COCHLEAR I equal ¼ CYATHUS (a spoonful)
COTULA, COTYLA, same as [HEMINA], same as ½ SEXTARIUS
QUARTARIUS I equal ¼ pint

Meat ball, ℞ [261], seq. —— with laser, ℞ [472-3]; meat, boiled, stewed, ℞ [271]; keeping of, ℞ [10], [13]; how to make pickled meat sweet, ℞ [12]; to decorate or garnish, ℞ [394], (see [marinade]); meat pudding, ℞ [42]; —— loaf, ℞ [384], 172

Meat displayed in windows, p. [73]; ancient —— diet, p. [31]; ancient —— supply, p. [31]

Meat diet, ancient, pp. [30], [31]

Meat supply, ancient and modern, p. [31]

Medicinal formulae in Apicius, ℞ [4], [5], [6], [29], [34], [67], [68], [68], [70], [71], [108], [111], [307]

MEDIUM, an iris or lily root which was preserved (candied) with honey, same as ginger, or fruit glacé

Medlar, ℞ [159]; see [MESPILA]

Megalone, place where Torinus found the Apicius codex, p. [266]

MEL, honey; MELLITUM, sweetened with honey
—— PRAVUM, ℞ [15]; —— PROBANDUM, ℞ [16]; —— ET CASEUM, ℞ [303]

MELCAE, ℞ [294], [303]

MELEAGRIS, Turkey; cf. Vehling: “Turkey Origin,” Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, Chicago, February-March, 1935

MELIRHOMUM, MELIZOMUM, ℞ [2]

MELO, small melon, B. [III], ℞ [85]; MELOPEPO, muskmelon

Melon, ℞ [85]

MENSA, repast, see [CENA]

MENTHA, MINTHA, mint; —— PIPERITA, peppermint

“Menu,” cf. [Brevis Ciborum], Excerpts of Vinidarius, p. [235]

Merling, see [MERULA]

MERULA, MERLUCIUS, cf. [LUCIUS], a fish called merling, whiting, also smelt; Fr. MERLAN; also blackbird. Platina discussed MERULA, the blackbird, the eating of which he disapproves. “There is little food value in the meat of blackbirds and it increases melancholia,” says he. Perhaps because the bird is “black,” ℞ [419]

MERUS, MERUM, pure, unmixed, “mere,” “merely”; hence MERUM VINUM, —— OLEUM, pure wine, oil, etc.

MESPILA, medlar; Ger. MISPEL

Milan edition, Colophon, p. [260]

Milk Toast, ℞ [171]

Mill operated by slaves, illustration, p. [60]

Minced dishes, Book [II]

Mineral salts in vegetables, ℞ [71], [96]

MINUTAL, a “small” dish, a “minutely” cut mince; —— MARINUM, ℞ [164]; —— TARENTINUM, ℞ [165]; —— APICIANUM, ℞ [166]; —— MATIANUM, ℞ [167]; —— DULCE, ℞ [168]; —— EX PRAECOQUIS, ℞ [169]; —— LEPORINUM, ℞ [170]; —— EX ROSIS, ℞ [171]; —— of large fruits, ℞ [169]

MITULIS, IN, ℞ [418]

Mixing bowls, see [Crater]

Monk’s Rhubarb, ℞ [26]

“Monkey,” ℞ [55]

Moralists, ancient, see [Review]

MORETUM, salad, salad dressing of oil, vinegar, garlic, parsley, etc., cf. ℞ [38]

Morsels, ℞ [261], seq., [309], seq.

MORTARIA, foods prepared in the mortar, MORTARIUM, ℞ [38], [221]

MORUS, mulberry; —— ALBA, white m. —— NIGRA, black m. Platina, DE MORIS, has a very pretty simile, comparing the various stages of ripening and colors of the mulberry to the blushing of Thysbes, the Egyptian girl, ℞ [24]

Moulds, ℞ [384], [126]

MUGIL, sea-mullet, ℞ [159], [419], [424], [425]

Mulberries, ℞ [24]

Mullet, see [MULLUS], ℞ [148], [428], [443-4]

MULLUS, the fish mullet, ℞ [148], [427], [442], [443], [482-4]

MULSUM, mead, honey-wine; —— ACETUM, honey-vinegar

Munich Ms. [XVIII] Apiciana

MURENA, MURAENA, the sea fish murena, p. [356], ℞ [448-53], [484]

MUREX, shellfish, purple-fish

MURIA, brine, salt liquor, p. [22], ℞ [30]; cf. [ALEC]

Mush, ℞ [178]

Mushrooms, B. [III], ℞ [121], [309-14]; —— Omelette, ℞ [314]

Muskrat, ℞ [396]

Mussels, ℞ [418]

MUSTEIS PETASONEM, ℞ [289]

MUSTEOS AFROS, ℞ [295]

MUSTUM, fresh, young, new; —— VINUM, must, new wine; —— OLEI, new oil

MYRISTICA, nutmeg

MYRRHIS ODORATA, myrrh, used for flavoring wine

MYRTUS, myrtle berry, often called “pepper” and so used instead of pepper

MYRTUS PIMENTA, allspice

N

NAPKINS, individual, see [MAPPA]

NAPUS, p. [188], a turnip, navew, ℞ [100-1]

NARDUS, nard, odoriferous plant; see [FOLIUM]

NASTURTIUM, the herb cress

NECHON, ℞ [16]

Neck, roast, ℞ [270]

NEPATA, cat-mint; —— MONTANA, mountain mint; see [MENTHA]

Nero, emperor, p. [11]

Nettles, ℞ [108]

New York codex, No. [I], Apiciana

Newton, Sir Isaac, scientist, Apiciana No. [8], p. [268]

NITRIUM, ℞ [66]

Nonnus, writer, ℞ [307], [396]

NOVENDIALES, see [CENA]

NUCEA LASERIS, ℞ [16]; also see [LASER]

NUCLEUS, nut, kernel, ℞ [92]

NUCULA, dim. of NUX, small nut; also a certain muscular piece of meat from the hind leg of animals, Fr. NOIX DE VEAU, as of veal, Ger. KALBSNUSS, and a certain small part of the loin of animals, Fr. NOISETTE

NUMIDICUS, PULLUS, [guinea hen], which see

Nut custard, turn-over, ℞ [129], [143]; —— porridge, ℞ [297-9]; —— pudding, ℞ [298], [299], [230]; —— meal mush, ℞ [300]

Nuts, Summary of, p. [236]

NUX, p. [236], a nut, both hazel nut and walnut; —— JUGLANDIS, walnut; —— PINEIS, —— PINEA, pine nuts, pignolia; —— MUSCATA, nutmeg

O

OBLIGABIS, ℞ [83]; also see [AMYLARE]

OBSONARE, to provide, to buy for the table; to prepare or to give a dinner; from the Greek, OPSON

OBSONATOR, steward

OBSONIUM, OP—, a dish, a meal, anything eaten with bread

OCIMUM, —YMUM, —UMUM, OCINUM, basil, basilica; also a sort of clover

OENOGARUM, wine and [GARUM] (which see), a wine sauce, ℞ [33], [146], [465]; OENOGARATUM, a dish prepared with O.

OENOMELI, wine and honey

OENOPOLIUM, wine shop; a wine dealer’s place, who, however, did a retail business. The TABERNA VINARIA seems to have been the regular wine restaurant, while the THERMOPOLIUM specialized in hot spiced wines. Like today in our complicated civilization, there were in antiquity a number of different refreshment places, each with its specialties and an appropriate name for the establishment

OENOTEGANON, ℞ [479], [81]

OFFA, OFFELLA, OFELLA, a lump or ball of meat, a “Hamburger Steak,” a meat dumpling, any bit of meat, a morsel, chop, small steak, collop, also various other “dainty” dishes, consisting principally of meat

“INTER OS ET OFFAM MULTA INTERVENIUNT”—Cato; the ancient equivalent for our “’twixt cup and lip there is many a slip”

[261]; —— APICIANA, ℞ [262]; —— APRUGNEA MORE, ℞ [263]; —— ALIAE, ℞ [264-5]; —— LASERATA, ℞ [271]; —— GARATAS, ℞ [471-74]; —— ASSAS, ℞ [472], [473]

Oil substitute, ℞ [9]; —— oil, to clarify for frying ℞ [250]
—— Liburnian, ℞ [7]

OLEUM, oil, olive oil; —— LIBURNICUM, ℞ [7]; HISPANUM, Spanish olive oil
OLEATUS, moistened, mixed, dressed with oil, [103]; —— MOLLE, vegetables strained, a purée, ℞ [103-106]; also HOLUS, etc.

OLIFERA, OLYRA, a kind of corn, spelt, ℞ [99]; see [OLUS]

OLIVA, olive, ℞ [30], [91]; to keep olives green, ℞ [30]

OLLA, a cook pot, a terra-cotta bowl; see also [CACCABUS]. OLLULA, a small O., a casserole, or cassolette. Sp. OLLA PODRIDA, “rotten pot”

OLUS, OLUSATRUM, OLUSTRUM, OLUSCULUM, OLERA, OLISERA, OLIFERA, OLISATRA, any herb, kitchen greens, pot herbs, sometimes cabbage, from OLITOR, the truck farmer, ℞ [25], [67], [99], [103]
OLUS ET CAULUS, cabbage and cale, ℞

OLUSATRUM, see [OLUS]

Omelette with sardines, ℞ [146]; —— with mushrooms, ℞ [314]; —— Soufflée, ℞ [302]

OMENTUM, caul, the abdominal membrane, used for sausage-making or to wrap croquettes (kromeskis) which then were OMENTATA, ℞ [43], [47]

Onions, ℞ [304-8]

OPERCULUM, a cover, lid, or dish with a cover

Opossum, ℞ [396]

ORIGANUM MARJORANA, marjoram; —— origany; —— VINUM, wine flavored with O.

ORYZA, rice, rice flour; see [RISUM]

OSPREON, OSPREOS, OSPRION, legumes, Title of Book [V]

Ostia, town, harbor of Rome; the OFFELLAE OSTIENSIS, ℞ [261], are the ancient “Hamburgers”; this seems to confirm the assumption that the population of sea-port towns have a preference for meat balls

OSTREA, oyster, ℞ [15], [410]; —RIUM, oyster bed or pit, or place for keeping oysters

Ostrich, ℞ [210-11]

Oval pan, illustration, p. [159]

Oval service dish, p. [43]

Oven, ancient bakery in Pompeii, illustration, p. [2]

OVIS SYLVATICA, OVIFERO, wild sheep, ℞ [348-50]

OVUM, egg; OVA SPHONGIA EX LACTE, ℞ [302]

OXALIS, sorrel

OXALME, acid pickle, vinegar and brine

Oxford Mss., Apiciana [X], [XI]

OXYCOMIUM, pickled olive

OXYGALA, curdled with curds

OXYGARUM, vinegar and [GARUM], which see, ℞ [36], [37]

OXYPORUS, easily digested, ℞ [34]

OXYZOMUM, seasoned with acid, vinegar, lemon, etc.

Oyster sauce, CUMINATUM, ℞ [41]

Oysters, how to keep, ℞ [14], [410], [411]
—— shipped by Apicius, p. [10]

P

PALLACANA CEPA, shallot, young onion; cf. [CEPA]

Pallas Athene Dish, The Great, illustration, p. [158]

PALMA, PALMITA, palm shoots

PALUMBA, wood pigeon, ℞ [220]

Pan with decorated handle, p. [73]

Panada, ℞ [127]

PANAX, PANACEA, the herb all-heal; it contains a savory juice like [LASER] and [FERULA]

PANDECTES, —ER, a book on all sorts of subjects; Title of Book [IV]

PANIS, bread, PICENTINUS, ℞ [126]

Pans, kitchen, see illustrations, pp. [155], [159]

Pap, ℞ [172-3], [182]

PAPAVER, poppy-seed; —— FICI, fig-seed

PARADOXON, CONDITUM, ℞ [1]

Parboiling, ℞ [119]

Paris Mss., Apiciana [III], [IV]

Parrot, ℞ [231-2]

Parsnips, ℞ [121-3]

PARTHIA, ℞ [191], [237], [364]; a country of Asia

Partridge, ℞ [218], seq., [499]

Passenius, —anus, an unidentified Roman, ℞ [389]

PASSER, a sea-fish, turbot; also a sparrow which Platina does not recommend for the table

PASSUM, raisin wine

PASTINACA, —CEA, parsnip, carrot, ℞ [121-3]; also a fish, the sting-ray

Pastry, absent, p. [43]

PATELLA, a platter or dish on which food was cooked and served, corresponding to our gratin dishes; a dish in general. In this sense it is often confused with [PATINA], which see, so that it has become difficult to distinguish between the two terms
—— THIROTARICA, ℞ [144]; —— ARIDA, ℞ [145]; —— EX OLISATRO, ℞ [145a]; —— SICCA, ℞ [145]

PATELLARIUS, pertaining to a PATELLA; also one who makes or sells dishes, and, in the kitchen, also a dishwasher; cf. [PATINARIUS]

PATINA, PATENA, a pot, pan, dish, plate; also food, eating, a dish, or cookery in general in which sense it corresponds to our “cuisine”

PATINARIUS, a glutton, gormandizer, also a pile of dishes, also the craftsman who makes and the merchant who sells dishes as well as the scullion who washes them

PATINA APICIANA, ℞ [141]; —— APUA, ℞ [138-9], [146]; —— DE ASPARAGIS, ℞ [132-33]; —— DE CYDONIIS, ℞ [163]; —— EX LACTE, ℞ [140]; —— EX LARIDIS ET CEREBELLIS, ℞ [147]; —— FRISILIS, ℞ [131]; —— EX RUSTICIS, ℞ [134]; —— DE ROSIS, ℞ [136]; —— DE LACERTIS, ℞ [152]; —— DE LUPO, ℞ [158]; —— DE PERSICIS, ℞ [160]; —— EX URTICA, ℞ [162]; —— EX SOLEIS, ℞ [154]; —— EX PISCIBUS, ℞ [155-7], [486]; —— MULLIS, ℞ [148]; —— QUIBUSLIBET, ℞ [149]; —— ALIA PISCIUM, ℞ [150]; —— SOLEARUM EX OVIS, ℞ [487]; —— QUOTIDIANA, ℞ [122], [142]; —— VERSATILIS, ℞ [129], [143]; —— ZOMORE, ℞ [153]; —— DE PIRIS, ℞ [161]; —— DE SORBIS, ℞ [159]; —— DE SAMBUCO, ℞ [135]; —— DE CUCURBITIS, ℞ [137]

PAVO, peacock, ℞ [54]

Peaches, a dish of, ℞ [160]

Peacock, Book [VI], ℞ [54]

Pears, ℞ [22], [161]

Peas, p. [247], ℞ [185-6], [190-2]; —— a tempting dish of, ℞ [192]; —— Indian, ℞ [187]; —— purée of peas, cold, ℞ [188]; —— or beans à la Vitellius, ℞ [189], [193]; —— in the pod, Apician style, ℞ [194-6]; —— in the pod à la Commodus, ℞ [197]; purée of peas with brains and chicken, ℞ [198]

PECTINE, scallop, ℞ [52]

Peeling young vegetables, ℞ [69]

PELAMIS, young tunny, ℞ [426], [444]

Pennell, Elizabeth R., writer, pp. [17], [18], [257-58]

PEPON, a kind of gourd, melon or pumpkin, ℞ [85]

Pepper, ℞ [1]; —— for other spices, ℞ [143], [177], [295], seq.

PERCA, perch, ℞ [446]

Perch, ℞ [446]

PERDICE, IN, ℞ [218]

PERDRIX, partridge, ℞ [218], seq., [499]

PERNA, ham; pork forequarter or hindquarter, ℞ [287], [288]
—— APRUGNA, ℞ [338]

PERSICUM, peach, ℞ [29], [160]; —US, peach-tree

Persons named in recipes, pp. [11], [21]

PETASO, fresh ham, hind leg of pork, ℞ [289]

Petits pois à la française, ℞ [185]

Petits salés, ℞ [41], [147], [149], [150], [151]

Petronius Arbiter, writer, pp. [3], [7], [11], [15]

PETROSELINUM, parsley

PHARIAM, UVAM PASSAM, ℞ [197]

PHASEOLUS, FASEOLUS, green string beans, kidney bean, young bean and pod, both green and wax bean varieties. Ger. FISOLE and FASOLE, ℞ [207]

PHASIANUS, pheasant; —ARIUS, one who has care of or who raises pheasants, game-keeper, ℞ [49], p. [265]

Pheasant, dumplings of, ℞ [48]; — plumage as decoration, ℞ [213]

Phillipps, bibl. Apiciana [I]

PHOENICOPTERUS, Flamingo, ℞ [220], [231-2]

Picentinian bread, ℞ [126]

Pichon, Baron J., collector, pp. [257-8], Apiciana, Nos. [21-22], p. [272]

Picking birds, ℞ [233]

Pie chimneys, ℞ [141]

Pig, see [PORCELLUM]

PIPER, pepper; —— NIGRUM, black p.; —— VIRIDUM, green p., ℞ [134]; “pepper” for other spices, ℞ [143], [177], [295], seq. —ATUS, prepared with p.

PIPERITIS, pepperwort, Indian pepper, capsicum

PIPIO, a young bird, a squab; from the chirping or “peeping” sounds made by them; —— EXOSSATUS, boned squab

PIRUM, pear, ℞ [160-1]

PISA, —UM, peas, pea, ℞ [185], seq., [190-2], [195-8]; —— FARSILIS, ℞ [186]; —— INDICAM, ℞ [187]; —— FRIGIDA, ℞ [188]; —M VITELLIANAM, ℞ [189], [193]; —— ADULTERAM, ℞ [192]

PISCINA, fish pond, fish tank, which was found in every large Roman household to keep a supply of fresh fish on hand

PISCIS, fish; PISCES FRIXOS, ℞ [476-7]; —— SCORPIONES RAPULATOS, ℞ [475]; —— ASSOS, ℞ [478]; —— OENOTEGANON, ℞ [479], [81]; —— IN PISCIBUS ELIXIS, ℞ [486]; —— IN PISCE ELIXO, ℞ [433], [434], [435], [436], [454]; —— AURATA, ℞ [461]; —— ASSA, ℞ [462]; —— OENOGARUM, ℞ [464-5]

PISTACIUM, —EUM, pistache

PISTOR, baker, pastry cook, confectioner, see [COQUUS]

Pitch, for sealing of vessels, ℞ [25]

PLACENTA, a certain cake, a cheese cake

Plaster in bread, p. [39]
—— for sealing of pots, ℞ [23]

Platina, Bartolomeo, humanist, writer, pp. [8], [9], [19], Apiciana No. [6], and often quoted in this index. Author of first printed Cookery book. Cf. Martino and Platina Exponents of Renaissance Cookery, by J. D. Vehling. Cf. [Cibarium], [Cornum], [Corvus], [Frictella], [Merula], [Morus], [Passer], [Ranae], [Risum], [Sturnus], [Styrio], [Thinca], [Thymus], [Zanzerella]

Plato, writer, p. [12]

Platters, Roast, p. [219]; Athene, p. [158]

Plautus, writer, p. [147]; —— naming cooks, ℞ [484]; Plautian Latinity, ℞ [153]

Pliny, writer, p. [31], ℞ [307], [396], [410]

Plumage of birds as a decoration, ℞ [213]

Plums, ℞ [22]

Plutarch, writer, pp. [3], [66], 128

Poggio, medieval scholar, at Fulda, p. [20]

POLEI, POLEGIUM, PULEIUM, penny-royal, flea-bane, flea-wort

POLENTA, peeled or pearled barley, ℞ [178]

Pollio, Roman, feeding human flesh to fish, ℞ [484]

POLYPODIUM, the herb fern or polypody

POLYPUS, the fish polypus, ℞ [410]

POLYTELES, POLI—, fine dishes, trimmed, set off; “Recherché” food; Title of Book [VII]

Pomegranates, to keep, ℞ [20]

Pompeii: Casa di Forno. See p. [2]
—— destroyed, p. [3], seq.
—— Wine Room, illustration, p. [124]

Pompeii, city, description of, see [Review]. Innkeeper at —— advertising ham, ℞ [287]; objects, table ware, etc., found at P., see [list of illustrations]

POMUM, fruit of any tree, as apples, pears, peaches, cherries, figs, dates, nuts, also mulberries and truffles. Cf. [MALUM], p. [370]

PONTUS, Black Sea Region

PORCA, PORCUS, female and male swine; PORCELLUS, PORCELLINUS, young s., pig, ℞ [336-81], [488-94]; —— PORCELLUM FARSILEM, ℞ [366], [367]; —— ASSUM, ℞ [369]; —— ELIXUM, ℞ [368]; —— APICIANUM, ℞ [370]; —— VITELLIANUM, ℞ [371]; —— LAUREATUM, ℞ [373]; —— FRONTINIANUM, ℞ [374]; —— CELSINIANUM, ℞ [376], [377]; —— HORTULANUM, ℞ [378]; —— ELIXUM IUS FRIGIDUM, ℞ [379]; —— TRAIANUM, ℞ [380]; —— CORIANDRATUM, ℞ [488]; —— FLACCIANUM, ℞ [372]; —— OENOCOCTUM, ℞ [489]; —— EO IURE, ℞ [490]; —— THYMO SPARSUM, ℞ [491]; OXYZOMUM, ℞ [492]; —— LASARATUM, ℞ [493]; —— IUSCELLATUM, ℞ [494]; —— ASSUM TRACTOMELINUM, ℞ [369]; —— LACTE PASTUM, ℞ [370]; —— IN PORCELLO LACTANTE, ℞ [381]

Pork, p. [285]; —— and onions à la Lucretius, ℞ [151]; —— skin, cracklings, ℞ [251-55]; —— udder, ℞ [251]; —— tenderloin, ℞ [251-255]; —— tails and feet, ℞ [251]; —— fig-fed, ℞ [259]; —— cutlets, Hunter Style, ℞ [263]; —— paunch, ℞ [285]; —— loin and kidneys, ℞ [286]; —— shoulder, ℞ [287-88]; —— fresh ham, ℞ [289]; —— bacon, ℞ [290]; —— Salt —— ℞ [290]; —— forcemeat, ℞ [366]

Porker, The ——’s Last Will and Testament, ℞ [376]

Porridge, Books [IV], [V], ℞ [172], [178]; —— and wine sauce, ℞ [179]; —— another, ℞ [180]

PORRUM, —US, leek, ℞ [93], [96]; “SECTILE ——”—Martial

PORTULACA, PORCILACA, purslane

POSCA, originally water and vinegar or lemon juice. It became an acid drink of several variations, made with wine, fruit juice, eggs and water

Pot Roast, ℞ [270]

Potherbs, to keep, ℞ [25], [188], see [OLUS]

Potted Entrées, ℞ [54]

POTUS, drink

PRAECOQUO, —OCTUS, —OCIA, “cooked beforehand,” also ripened too early, but the present kitchen term is “blanching,” or “parboiling.” Cf. [PRAEDURO]

PRAEDURO, to harden by boiling, to blanch, ℞ [119]

Preserves, several in Book [I]

Preserving (keeping of) meats, ℞ [10-12]; —— fried fish, ℞ [13]; —— fruit, figs, prunes, pears, etc., ℞ [19-24], [28], 29, [30]; —— grapes, ℞ [19]; —— honey cakes, ℞ [16]; —— mulberries, ℞ [24]; —— oysters, ℞ [14]; —— pomegranates, ℞ [20]; —— pot herbs, ℞ [25]; —— quinces, ℞ [21]; —— sorrel, sour dock, ℞ [26]; —— citron, ℞ [23]; —— truffles, ℞ [27]; —— vegetable purée, ℞ [106]

Press, wine illustration, p. [92]

Processing, ℞ [19-24]

PRUNA, live, burning coal

PRUNUM, plum; —— DAMASCENUM, p. from Damascus, ℞ [22]; this variety came dried, resembling our large prunes. —— SILVESTRIS, sloe berry, which by culture and pruning has become the ancestor of plums, etc.

PTISANA, (better) TISANA, barley broth, rice broth, a gruel, ℞ [173-3], [200-1]; —— TARICHA, ℞ [173]

Pudding, ℞ [60]

PULLUS, PULLULUS, young animal of any kind but principally a pullet, chicken, ℞ [51], [2-7], [213], [235-6], seq.; —— RAPTUS, note 1, ℞ [140]

PULLUM PARTHICUM, ℞ [237]; OXYZOMUM, ℞ [238]; —— NUMIDICUM, ℞ [239]; —— LASERATUM, ℞ [240]; —— ELIXUM, ℞ [242]; —— CUM CUCURBITIS, ℞ [243]; —— CUM COLOCASIIS, ℞ [244]; —— VARDANUM, ℞ [245]; —— FRONTONIANUM, ℞ [246]; —— TRACTOGALATUM, ℞ [247]; —— FARSILIS, ℞ [248]; LEUCOZOMUM, ℞ [250]

PULMENTARIUM, any food eaten with vegetables, pulse or bread, or a dish composed of these ingredients, ℞ [67-71]

PULMO, lung, ℞ [29]

PULPA, —MENTUM, ℞ [42], [134]; also PULMENTUM

PULS, —E, PULTICULUM, Books [IV], [V], a porridge, polenta, ℞ [178], seq.; PULTES JULIANAE, ℞ [178]; —— OENOCOCTI, ℞ [179]; —— TRACTOGALATAE, ℞ [181]

PULTARIUS, a bowl, a “cereal” dish, ℞ [104]

Pumpkin, B. [III], ℞ [73-80]; —— pie, ℞ [137]; —— fritters, ℞ [176]; —— like dasheens, ℞ [74]; —— Alexandrine Style, ℞ [75]; —— boiled, ℞ [76]; —— fried, ℞ [77]; —— [78]; —— mashed, ℞ [79]; —— and chicken, ℞ [80]

Purée of lettuce, ℞ [130]

PYRETHRUM, —ON, Spanish camomile, pellitory

Q

QUARTARIUS, a [measure] (which see), ¼ pint

Quenelles, ℞ [131]

Quinces, ℞ [21], [162]

R

Rabbit, ℞ [54]

Radishes, ℞ [102]

Ragoût of brains and bacon, ℞ [147]; —— financière, ℞ [166]

RAIA, the sea-fish ray, or skate; also whip-ray; p. [343], ℞ [403-4]; Raie au beurre noir, ℞ [404]

Raisins, ℞ 30

RANAE, frogs, have been an article of diet for ages. Platina gives fine directions for their preparation. He recommends only frogs living in the water. RUBETAS ET SUB TERRA VIVENTES, UT NOXIAS REJICIO! AQUATILAS HAE SUNT DE QUIBUS LOQUOR

Platina skins the frogs, turns them in flour and fries them in oil; he adds fennel flower garnish and SALSA VIRIDA (green sauce, our ravigote or remoulade) on the side. No modern chef could do different or improve upon it. The fennel blossom garnish is a startling stroke of genius

Rankin, E. M., writer, see [COQUUS]

RAPA, RAPUM, rape, turnip, navew, ℞ [26], [100-1]

RAPHANUS SATIVUS, Horseradish, ℞ [102]

Ray, fish, ℞ [403-4]

RECOQUO, RECOCTUM, re-heated, warmed-up

Redsnapper, ℞ [448]

Réduction, ℞ [145], [168]

Reference to other parts of the book by Apicius, ℞ [170], [166]

Relishes, ℞ [174-5]

RENES, ℞ [286]

Reynière, Grimod de la —— writer, p. [3], see [MAPPA]

RHOMBUS, fish, turbot

RHUS, a shrub called SUMACH, seed of which is used instead of salt

RISUM, rice, also ORYZA. The word RISUM is used by Platina who says: “RISUM, QUOD EGO ANTIQUO VOCABULO ORIZAM APPELLATUM PUTO.” This is one of the many philologically interesting instances found in Platina and Aegineta of the evolution of a term from the antique to the medieval Latin and finally emerging into modern Italian. What better proof, if necessary, could be desired than this etymology for the authenticity of the Apicius book? Its age could be proven by a philologist if no other proof were at hand

Roasts, Roasting, p. [285], ℞ [266-70]

Roman Beauty Apple, ℞ [136]
—— excesses, p. [15]

Roman Cook Stove, illustration, p. [182]
—— economic conditions, p. [15]

Roman Vermouth, ℞ [3]

ROSATUM, ROSATIUM, flavored with roses; —— VINUM, rose wine, ℞ [4-6]; —— without roses, ℞ [6]

Rose pie, see [MALUM ROSEUM], also ℞ [136], [171]
—— custard, ℞ [136]; —— pudding, ℞ [136]; —— apple, ℞ [136]

Rose wine, ℞ [4-6]

ROSMARINUS, rosemary

Round sausage, ℞ [65]

Roux, ℞ [172], see [AMYLARE]

RUBELLIO, fish, ℞ [447]

RUBRA TESTA, red earthen pot

RUMEX, sorrel, sour dock, monk’s rhubarb, ℞ [24]

Rumohr, B., writer, pp. [3], [18]

Rumpolt, Marx, cook, cf. [Styrio]

RUTA, rue; —— HORTENSIS, garden r.; —— SYLVESTRIS, wild r.; —— RUTATUS, prepared with r. Rue was very much esteemed because of its stimulating properties

Rye, ℞ [99]

S

SABUCO, see [SAMBUCO]

SACCARUM, SACCHARUM, sugar; distillate from the joints of the bamboo or sugar cane, coming from India, hence called “Indian Salt.” It was very scarce in ancient cookery. Honey was generally used in place of sugar. Only occasionally a shipment of sugar would arrive in Rome from India, supposed to have been cane sugar; otherwise cane and beet sugar was unknown in ancient times. Any kind of sweets, therefore, was considered a luxury

SAL, salt. Laxative salt, ℞ [29]; “For many ills,” ibid.

Sala, George Augustus, writer, p. [38]

SALACACCABIA, SALACATTABIA, “salt” food boiled in the “caccabus,” ℞ [125-7], [468-70]

Salad, ℞ [109-11]; —— dressing, ℞ [112-3]; Italian —— ℞ [122]

Salcisse, ℞ [41]

SALINUM, salt cellar

Salmasius, Codex of ——, see Apiciana, [III]

SALPA, a sea-fish like stock-fish

SALSAMENTUM IN PORCELLO, ℞ [381]

Salsicium, ℞ [41]

SALSUM, pickled or salt meat, especially bacon; ℞ [10], [41], [147], [149], [150], [428], seq.; —— CRUDUM, ℞ [151], cf. [petits salés]

Salt, laxative, ℞ [29]; “for many ills,” ibid.; —— meat, to make sweet, ℞ [12]; —— fish, ℞ [144], seq., [427], seq.; —— balls, ℞ [145]

SALVIA, SALVUS, sage

SAMBUCUS, elder-tree, or e.-berry; ℞ [135]

Sanitary measures, see [MAPPA]

SAPA, new wine boiled down

SAPOR, taste, savor, relish; —— ROSELLINUS, rose extract, prepared rose flavor

SARCOPTES, title of Book [II]

SARDA, SARDELLA, small fish, sardine, anchovy, ℞ [146], [419], [420], [480]; —— CONDITAE, ℞ [480]; SARDAM FARSILEM, ℞ [419]; —— Sardine omelette, ℞ [146]

Sarinus, Pompeiian innkeeper, p. [7]

SARTAGO, frying pan, flat and round or oblong, of bronze or of iron; some were equipped with hinged handles, to facilitate packing or storing away in small places, in soldiers’ knapsack, or to save space in the pantry. This, as well as the extension handle of some ancient dippers are ingenious features of ancient kitchen utensils. See also [FRICTORIUM], and the illustrations of pans, pp. [155], [159]

[SATUREIA], savory, satury

Sauce pans, illustrations, pp. [155], [159], [73], [231]

Sauces, ancient compared with modern, pp. [22], [24], [26], [27]; —— for roasts, ℞ [267-70]; —— for partridge, ℞ [499]; —— crane and duck, ℞ [215]; —— for fowl, ℞ [218-28]

Sauces. Bread Sauce, ℞ [274]; Brine, ℞ [284]; —— for broiled fish, Alexandrine style, ℞ [437-39]; —— for boiled fish, ℞ [433-6], [454]; —— for broiled mullet, ℞ [442-3]; —— boiled meats, ℞ [271-3]; —— for roasts, ℞ [267], seq.; English ——, ℞ [267]; —— for broiled murenas, ℞ [448-51]; Dill ——, ℞ [283]; Herb —— for fried fish, ℞ [432]; —— for Horned fish, ℞ [441]; —— for lacertus, ℞ [455-7]; —— perch, ℞ [446]; —— redsnapper, ℞ [447]; —— dory, ℞ [461-2]; —— for suckling pig, ℞ [379]; —— young tunny, ℞ [444-5], [459]; —— for tooth-fish, ℞ [460-1], [486]; —— shellfish, ℞ [397]; —— for venison, ℞ [339], [349]; —— for wild sheep or lamb, ℞ [350]; White ——, ℞ [276], [277]; Wine —— for fish, ℞ [464]; Tasty —— for conger, ℞ [441]; —— for tidbits, ℞ [276-82]; —— for sea-scorpion, ℞ [463]; —— for eel, ℞ [440], [466-7]

Saucisse, ℞ [41]

Sauerbraten-Einlage, ℞ [11]

Sausage, p. [172], ℞ [41], [45], [60-65], [139], [165]

Savonarola, Michaele, p. [273]

Scalding poultry, ℞ [233]

Scallops, ℞ [46]

SCANDIUS, chervil

SCARUS, a certain sea-fish esteemed as a delicacy, a parrot-fish

SCHOLA APITIANA, Apiciana, Nos. [21], [22], [23], facsimile, p. [206]

Schuch, C. Th. editor, Apiciana, Nos. [16-17], p. [34], [25], [270] seq.

Science confirming ancient methods, p. [32]

SCILLA, SCYLLA, SQUILLA, a shell-fish, a sea-onion, ℞ [43], [485]

SCORPIO, a sea-scorpion, ℞ [463], [475]

SCRIBLITA, SCRIBILITA, pastry, some kind of pancake, extra hot. Plautus and Martial, hence Scriblitarius, cake baker, cf. [Coquus]

SCRUPULUM, SCRI—, a [weight], which see

Sealing vessels to prevent air from entering, ℞ [23], [25]

Sea Barb, ℞ [482-3]; —— Bass, ℞ [158], [447]; —— Eel, ℞ [484]; —— food, p. [343]; —— stew, Baian style, ℞ [432]; —— mullet, ℞ [157]; —— nettles, ℞ [162]; —— perch, ℞ [447]; —— pike, ℞ [158]; —— urchin, ℞ [413-4]; —— scorpion, ℞ [475]

Sea-scorpion with turnips, ℞ [475]

Sea water, ℞ [8]

Seasoning, see [flavoring]

Secrecy in recipes, pp. [29], [30]

Seeds, Summary of, p. [236]

SEL, see [SIL]

SEMINIBUS, DE, p. [236]

Seneca, Roman philosopher, pp. [3], [11], [15]

SEPIA, cuttle-fish, ℞ [406-9]

SERPYLLUM, wild thyme

Service berry, ℞ 159
—— pan with decorated handle, illustration, p. [73]
—— dish for eggs, p. [93]

SESAMUM, sesame herb or corn

SESELIS, SEL, SIL, hartwort, kind of cumin

SETANIA, a kind of medlar, also a certain onion or bulb

SEXTARIUS, a [measure], which see, ℞ [1]

Sforza Ms. Apiciana [XIII]

Shellfish, ℞ [397], [412]

Shell-shaped Dessert Dish, p. [125]

Shircliffe, Arnold, Dedication, p. [273]

Shore Dinner, ℞ [46]

Sicardus Ms. Apiciana [XIV]

Signerre Rothomag., editor, pp. [258], seq., also see [Tacuinus]

Signerre, Colophon, p. [260]

SIL, see [SESELIS]

SILIGO, winter wheat, very hard wheat

SILIQUA, shell, pod, husk

SILPHIUM, SYLPHIUM, same as [LASERPITIUM], which see, ℞ [32]

SILURUS, supposed to be the river fish sly silurus, or sheat-fish, also called the horn-pout, or catfish, ℞ [426]

SIMILA, —AGO, fine wheat flour

SINAPIS, mustard

Singe,” ℞ [55]

SION, —UM, plant growing in the marshes or on meadows, water-parsnip

SISYMBRIUM, water cress

SITULA, hot water kettle

Skate, ℞ [403-4]

Slang in ancient text, p. [19]

Slaughter, cruel methods of, ℞ [259], [260]

Slaves grinding flour, illustration, p. [60]

Sloe, see [PRUNUM]

Smelts, ℞ [138-39]

SMYRNION, —UM, a kind of herb, common Alexander

Snails, ℞ [323-5]

Soda, use of —— to keep vegetables green, ℞ [66]

Soft cabbage, ℞ [103-6]

SOLEA, flat fish, the sole, ℞ [154], [487]; SOLEARUM PATINA, ibid.

SORBITIO, from SORBEO, supping up, sipping, drinking, drought; any liquid food that may be sipped, a drink, a potion, a broth, a sherbet, Fr. SORBET

Sorrel, ℞ [26]

Sour Dock, ℞ [26]

Soups, ℞ [178], seq.

Sow’s womb, matrix, udder, belly, ℞ [59], [172], [251-8]

Soyer, Alexis, chef, [35]

Sparrow, see [PASSER]

Spätzli, ℞ [247]

Spelt, ℞ [58-9]

Spengler, O., writer, p. [17]

SPICA, a “spike,” ear of corn, top of plants, the plant spikenard, SPICA NARDI

Spiced Fruit, ℞ [177]

Spices, Summary of, pp. [234-5]; spicing, ancient and modern, ℞ [15], [276-77], [385], seq.

Spiny lobster, ℞ [54], [485]

Spoiling, to prevent food from—see Book [I], and Preserving, to prevent birds from spoiling, ℞ [229-30], [233]

SPONDYLIUM, —ION, a kind of plant, cow-parsnip, or all-heal. Also called SPHONDYLIUM and FONDULUM. It is quite evident that this term is very easily confused with the foregoing, a mistake, which was made by Humelbergius and upheld by Lister and others. For comparison see ℞ [46], [115-21], [183], [309], [431]

SPONDYLUS, the muscular part of an oyster or other shellfish, scallop, for instance; also a species of bivalves, perhaps the scallop, ℞ [46]

SPONGIOLA, rose gall, also the roots of asparagus, clottered and grown close together

SPONGIOLUS, fungus growing in the meadows, a mushroom, cf. [SPONDYLIUM] and notes pertaining thereto

Sprats, ℞ [138-9]

Sprouts, cabbage ——, ℞ [89-92]

Squab, ℞ [218-27], cf. [Pipio]

Squash, ℞ [73-80]

Squill, ℞ [485]

Squirrel, ℞ [396]

Stag, ℞ [339-45]

Starch, in forcemeats, sausage, etc., ℞ [50]

Starr, Frederick, see [introduction]

STATERAE, steelyards for measuring

Sternajolo, writer, Apiciana, No. [28], p. [273]

Stewed Lacertus, ℞ [152]; —— meats, p. [285], ℞ [356], seq.

Stewpots, illustrated, pp. [183], [209], [223], [235]

String beans and chick-peas, ℞ [209]

STRUTHIO, ostrich, ℞ [210-11]

Studemund, W., writer, p. [19]

Stuffed pumpkin fritters, ℞ [176]; —— chicken or pig, ℞ [199]; —— boned kid or lamb, ℞ [360]

STURNUS, a starling, stare; Platina condemns its meat as unfit, likewise that of the blackbird (cf. [MERULA]); he pronounces their flesh to be “devilish.” “STURNI, QUOS VULGO DIABOLICAM CARNEM HABERE DICIMUS.” Yet three-hundred years later, French authorities recommend this sort of food. Viger, La Nouvelle Maison Rustique, Paris, 1798, Vol. iii, p. 613, tells how to catch and fatten STURNI. “After a month [of forced feeding] they will be nice and fat and good to eat and to sell; there are persons who live of this trade.” He praises the crow similarly

These instances are cited not only as a commentary upon the taste of the Southern people and their habits which have endured to this day but also to illustrate the singular genius of Platina. Also the following notes to [STYRIO] tend to show how far advanced was Platina in the matter of food as compared with the masters of the 18th century in France

STYRIO, STIRIO, STURIO, ℞ [145], sturgeon; probably the same fish as known to the ancients as ACIPENSER or STURIO. (A. SIVE S. OBLONGO TEREDEQUE—Stephanus à Schonevelde, in Ichthyologia, Hamburg, 1624). There can be no doubt that the sturgeon or sterlet is meant by this term, for Platina calls the eggs of the fish “caviare.” “OVA STIRIONIS CONDITUM QUOD CAUARE UOCANT.” Eloquently he describes his struggle with the changing language. The efforts of this conscientious man, Platina, to get at the bottom of things no matter how trivial they may appear, are highly praiseworthy

He writes “DE STIRIONE. TRAHI PER TENEBRAS NŪC MIHI VIDEOR, QUANDO HORŪ, DE QUIBUS, DEINCEPS DICTURUS SUM, PISCIŪ, NULLUS CERTUS UEL NOMINIS, UEL NATURAE EXISTAT AUTOR. NEGLIGENTIAE MAIORUM & INSCITIAE ID MAGIS, QUÀM MIHI ASCRIBENDUM EST. VTAR EGO NOUIS NOMINIBUS NE DELICATORUM GULAE PER ME DICANT STETISSE, QUO MINUS INTEGRA UTERENTUR UOLUPTATE.”

As for the rest, Platina cooks the sturgeon precisely in our own modern way: namely in water, white wine and vinegar. And: “SALEM INDERE MEMENTO!—don’t forget the salt!”

Compare him with France 350 years later. As for caviare, A. Beauvilliers, in his L’Art du cuisinier, Paris, 1814, treats this “ragoût” as something entirely new; yet Beauvilliers was the leading restaurateur of his time and a very capable cook, save Carême, the best. Beauvilliers has no use for caviare which he calls “Kavia.” Says he: “LES RUSSES EN FONT UN GRAND CAS ET L’ACHETENT FORT CHER [The Russians make a big thing of this and buy it very dearly] CE RAGOUT, SELON MOI, NE CONVIENT QU’ AUX RUSSES—this stew, according to my notion, suits only the Russians or those who have traveled thereabouts.”

Shakespeare, in speaking about “Caviare to the General” apparently was more up-to-date in culinary matters than this Parisian authority. A search of the eight volumes (Vol. I, 1803) of the famous Almanach des Gourmands by Grimod de la Reynière, Paris, 1803, seq., fails to reveal a trace of caviare

A German cook, a hundred years after Platina, Marx Rumpolt in “Ein new Kochbuch, Franckfort am Mayn, bey Johan Feyrabendt, 1587” on verso of folio XCVII, No. 9, gives an exact description of caviare and its mode of preparation. He calls it ROGEN VOM HAUSEN. The HAUSEN is the real large sturgeon, the Russian Beluga from which the best caviare is obtained. Rumpolt, whose book is the finest and most thorough of its kind in the middle ages, and a great work in every respect, remarks that caviare is good eating, especially for Hungarian gentlemen

“... SO ISSET MAN JN ROH / IST EIN GUT ESSEN / SONDERLICH FÜR EINEN VNGERISCHEN HERRN.”

SUCCIDIA a side of bacon or salt pork

SUCCUM, SUCUM, ℞ [172], [200]

Suckling Pig, see [PORCELLUS]

Sugar and pork, ℞ [151]; use of —— in ancient Rome, see [SACCARUM]

Suidas, writer, p. [11]

SUMEN, ℞ [257]; —— PLENUM, ℞ [258]

Sumptuary laws, p. [25], ℞ [166]

Sumptuous dishes, ℞ [285]

Sweet dishes, home-made, ℞ [294-6]

Sweet MINUTAL, ℞ [168]

SYRINGIATUS, ℞ [360]

T

TABLE, adjustable, illustration, p. [138]; —— round, id., p. [122]

Tacuinus, editor-printer, p. [258]; quoted in recipes [8] seq.; Facs. of Title Page, 1503, p. [262]; Facs. of opening chapter, p. [232]

TAMNIS, —US, TAMINIUS, wild grape

TANACETUM, tansy

Taranto, Tarentum, city, ℞ [165]; —ian sausage, ℞ [140]; —— Minutal, ℞ [165]; see also [LONGANO]

Taricho, Tarichea, town, ℞ [427], seq.

Taro, dasheen, ℞ [74], [154], [172], [200], [244], [322]; see [COLOCASIA]

Tarpeius, a Roman, ℞ [363]

TEGULA, tile for a roof, also a pan, a plate of marble or of copper; Ger. TIEGEL

Tempting Dish of Peas, A ——, ℞ [192]

TERENTINA, ℞ [338]

Tertullian, writer, p. [3]

TESTA, —U, —UM, an earthen pot with a lid, a casserole

TESTICULA CAPONUM, ℞ [166]

TESTUDO, TESTA, turtle, tortoise. Platina praises the sea-turtle as good eating

TETRAPES, —US, four-footed animals; title of Book [VIII]

TETRAPHARMACUM, a course of four dishes, or a dish consisting of four meats. In modern language, a “Mixed Grill,” a “Fritto Misto,” a “Shore-Dinner”

THALASSA, the sea; title of Book [IX], treating of fish

Theban ounce, ℞ [3]

THERMOPOLIUM, a tavern, specializing in hot drinks

THERMOSPODIUM, a hot-plate, a hot dish carrier, a BAIN-MARIS, illustrations, pp. [72], [90]

THINCA, a fish, moonfish (?) “OLIM MENAM APPELLATAM CREDIDERIM”—Platina

Thudichum, Dr., writer, p. [18]

THUS, TUS, frankincense, or the juice producing incense, Rosemary (?); also the herb ground-pine, CHAMAEPITYS, ℞ [60]

Thrush, p. [265], ℞ [497]

THYMBRIA, savory; see [SISYMBRIUM], [SATUREIA] and [CUNILA]; also see [THYMUS]

THYMUS, thyme. Platina describes THYMUS and THYMBRIA with such a love and beauty that we cannot help but bestow upon him the laurels worn by the more well-known poets who became justly famous for extolling the fragrance of less useful plants such as roses and violets

THYNNUS, tunny-fish, ℞ [426], [457-8]

Tidbits, p. [285], ℞ [261], seq.; —— of lamb or kid, ℞ [355]

TISANA, see [PTISANA], ℞ [172-3], [200-1]

Title pages, Venice, 1503, p. [262]; Lyons, p. [263]; Zürich, p. [265]; London, p. [267]

Toasting, ℞ [129]

Tooth-fish, ℞ [157]

Torinus, Albanus, editor of the Apicius and Platina editions of 1541, text, p. [14]
—— quoted, ℞ [1], [2], [8], seq., assailed by Lister, see [L.]
—— facsimile of Title page 1541, p. [220]

TORPEDO, —IN, —INE, ℞ [403-4]

TORTA, cake, tart; —— ALBA, cheese cake

Toulouse garnish, compared, ℞ [378]

TRACTOGALATUS, a dish prepared with milk and paste (noodles, spätzli, etc.); —— PULLUS, a young chicken pie

TRACTOMELITUS, a dish prepared with honey paste; a gingerbread or honeybread composition

TRACTUM, ℞ [181]

Traianus, a Roman, ℞ [380]; also Traganus, Trajanus

Traube, writer, p. [19]

Trimalchio, fictitious character by Petronius, whose “Banquet” is the only surviving description of a Roman dinner, unfortunately exaggerated because it was a satire on Nero, pp. [8], [11]

Tripod, illustration, p. [40]

TRITICUM, —EUS, —INUS, wheat, of wheat

TROPHETES, erroneously for AËROPTES, Gr. for fowl, title of Book [VI]

Truffles, ℞ [27], [33], [315-321], 333; cf. [TUBERA]

TRULLA, any small deep vessel, also a dipper, ladle

TUBERA, “tubers”; TUBER CIBARIUM, —— TERRAE, truffle, a fungus, mushroom growing underground, ℞ [27], [35], [315], seq., [321]; T. CYCLAMINOS, “sow-bread,” because swine, being very fond of T. dig them up. The truffle defies cultivation, grows wild and today is still being “hunted” by the aid of swine and dogs that are guided by its matchless aroma

TUCETUM, a delicate dish; particularly a dessert made of prunes

Tunny, fish, ℞ [427], [458], [459]; Baby, ℞ [420], [424], [425], [426]; Salt, ℞ [427]

TURDUS, thrush, ℞ [497]

Turkey, probably known to the ancients. See [Guinea Hen] and [Meleagris]

Turnips, ℞ [100], [101]

Turnover dish, ℞ [129]

TURTUR, “turtle” dove, ℞ [218], seq., [498]; —— ILLA, young t., an endearing term

TURSIO, TH—, ℞ [145]

TYROPATINA, ℞ [301]

TYROTARICUS, a dish made of cheese, salt fish, eggs, spices—ingredients resembling our “Long Island Rabbit,” ℞ [137], [143], 180, 439; see [TARICA], ℞ [144], [428]

U

UDDER, ℞ [251]

UNCIA, ounce, equals 1/12 lb.; also inch, -/12

UNGELLAE, ℞ [251-5] foot

Urbino, Duke of, p. [269]

URNA, urn, pitcher, water bucket; —ULA, small vessel; also a liquid measure, containing half of an AMPHORA, of four CONGII, or twelve SEXTARII; see [measures]

URTICA, nettle; also sea-nettle, ℞ [108], [162]

U. S. Dept. of Agr. on Dasheens, ℞ [322]

UVA, grape, ℞ [19]; Uvam passam Phariam, ℞ [97]

V

Vaerst, Baron von, a writer, pp. [3], [8]

Vanilla, ℞ [15]

VARIANTES LECTIONES, Apiciana No. [12]

Varianus, Varius, Varus, Vardanus, Roman family name, ℞ [245]

Varro, a writer, ℞ [70], [307], [396], p. [21]

VAS, a vase, vat, vessel, dish, plate; —CULUM, a small v.; —— VITREUM, glass v., ℞ [23]

Vasavarayeyam, ancient Sanscrit book, p. [13]

Vatican Mss. Apiciana, p. [254], seq., Incipit facsimile, p. [253]

Veal Steak, p. [314], ℞ [351], [2]; —— Fricassée, ℞ [353], [4]

Vegetable Dinner, ℞ [67-9], [71], [145], 188; —— purée, ℞ [103-6]; —— peeling of young v., ℞ [66]; to keep v. green, ℞ [67], 188; —— and brain pudding, ℞ [131]

Vehling, J. D., see [Introduction]; V. collection, p. [257]

VENERIS OSTIUM, ℞ [307]

Venison, ℞ [339-45]

VENTREM, AD ——, ℞ [68], [69], [70], [71]; —ICULUM, ℞ [285]

VERMICULI, “little worms,” noodles, vermicelli

Vermouth, Roman, French, and Black Sea, different kinds of, ℞ [3], seq.

VERVEX, a wether-sheep, mutton

VESTINUS, see [Caseus], ℞ [126]

Vicaire, Georges, bibliographer, p. [18]

VICIA, a kind of pulse, vetch

VICTUS, way of life, diet; —— TENUIS, reduced diet

Vinaigrette, ℞ [113], [336], [341]

Vinidarius, Excerpts of, pp. [12], [21], [234]

VINUM, wine; —— CANDIDUM FACIES, ℞ [8]; many technical terms are given to wines, according to their qualities, such as ALBUM, CONDITUM, FUSCUM, NIGRUM, LIMPIDUM, ATRUM, DURUM, FULVUM, SANGUINEM, RUBENS, FIERI, BONUM, DULCE SUAVUM, FIRMUM, SALUBRE, DILUTUM, VAPIDUM, etc. These, as our modern terms, are employed to designate the “bouquet,” color and other characteristics of wine. Then there are the names of the different brands coming from different parts, too numerous to mention. Furthermore there are wines of grapes, old and new, plain or distilled, raw or cooked, pure and diluted, natural or flavored, and the many different drinks made of grape wine with herbs and spices

V. NIGRUM, “black wine,” may be muddy wine in need of clarification; there is some slight doubt about this point. It appears that the vintner of old was much more tempted to foist unworthy stuff upon his customers than his colleague of today who is very much restricted by law and guided by his reputation

VINUM also is any drink or liquor resembling grape wine, any home-made wine fermented or fresh. There is a V. EX NAPIS, —— PALMEUM, —— EX CAROTIS, —— EX MILII SEMINE, —— EX LOTO, —— EX FICO, —— EX PUNCICIS, —— EX CORNIS, —— EX MESPILIS, —— EX SORBIS, —— EX MORIS, —— EX NUCLEIS PINEIS, —— EX PIRIS, —— EX MALIS, (cf. [Pliny]), resembling our cider, perry, berry wines and other drink or liquor made of fruit, berries, vegetables or seeds

VIOLATIUM and ROSATIUM, ℞ [5], are laxatives; —— ORIGANUM is wine flavored with origany; etc., etc.

It is doubtful, however, that the Romans knew the art of distillation to the extent as perfected by the Arabs centuries later and brought to higher perfection by the medical men and alchymists of the middle ages

Violet Wine, ℞ [5]

Virility, supposed stimulants for, ℞ [307], [410]

VITELLINA, VITULINA, calf, veal, ℞ [351-4]

Vitellius, emperor, p. [11], ℞ [189], [193], [317]

VITELLUS OVI, yolk of egg; also very young calf. “Calf’s sweetbreads”—Danneil

Vollmer, F., editor, commentator, Apiciana No. [21], [23], [27], pp. [13], [18], [19], [273]

Vossius, G. J., philologist, on Coelius, p. [266]

VULVA, sow’s matrix, womb; —ULA, small v., ℞ [59], [251-54], [256]. Was considered a delicacy. Pliny, Martial and Plutarch wrote at length on the subject. The humane Plutarch tells of revolting detail in connection with the slaughter of swine in order to obtain just the kind of V. that was considered the best

Cf. Pliny, Hist. Nat., VIII, 51; XI, 37, 84, 54; Plutarch’s essay on flesh eating, Martial, Ep. XII, 56 and VII, 19

W

WEIGHTS. LIBRAE, scale, balance. LIBRA—pound—lb—12 ounces, equivalent to one AS
UNCIA, an ounce, properly the twelfth part of any unit, also any small bit
SCRIPULUM, or SCRU—, 1 scruple, 288 to 1 lb.
SELIBRA for SEMILIBRA, half a pound
Theban ounce, cf. ℞ [3]

Weighing fluids, ℞ [471]

Welsh rabbit, see [ZANZERELLA]

Whiting, ℞ [419]

Wild Boar, ℞ [329], seq., [338]; —— sheep, ℞ [348]; —— goat, ℞ [346], seq.

Wilson, Dr. Margaret B., collector, cf. [Preface], p. [37]; cf. Apiciana [I], pp. [254], [257]; cf. [Garum]

Wine, fine spiced, ℞ [1]; Rose, ℞ [4]; —— without roses, ℞ [6]; —— Violet, ℞ [5]; —— To clarify muddy, ℞ [8]; —— New—boiled down, DEFRITUM, ℞ [21]; —— sauce for truffles, ℞ [33]; —— Palm, ℞ [35]; —— of Carica figs, ℞ [55]; —— sauce for fig-fed pork, ℞ [259], [260]; —— fish, ℞ [479]; cf. [VINUM]

Wine pitcher, illustration, p. [208]; —— press, illustration, p. [92]; —— storage room in Pompeii, illustration, p. [124]; —— Dipper, p. [3]; —— Crater, p. [140]

Wolf, Rebekka, writer, ℞ [205], seq.

Wolley, Mrs. Hannah, writer, ℞ [52]

Woodcock, ℞ [218], seq.

Wood-pigeon, ℞ [218], seq.

Writers, ancient, on food, pp. [3], [4]

Y

YEAST, ℞ [16]

Young cabbage, p. [188], ℞ [87]

Z

ZAMPINO, ℞ [338]

ZANZERELLA, a “Welsh rabbit.” “CIBARIUM QUOD VULGO ZANZERELLAS UOCANT”—Platina

ZEMA, ZU—, ZY—, a cook pot for general use

ZINZIGER, GINGIBER, ginger; the latter is the better spelling

ZOMORE, ZOMOTEGANON, ZOMORE GANONA, ZOMOTEGANITE—a dish of fish boiled in their own liquor, resembling the modern bouillabaisse, ℞ [153]. The GANON, —A, —ITE, is the name of an unidentified fish, the supposed principal ingredient of this fish stew. Cf. [Oenoteganon]

[End of Index and Vocabulary]

[INDICIS FINIS]