Chapter XII

[Toronto]

It is believed that the word Toronto is of Huron origin, and that it signified "Place of Meeting." This has been contested; in any case it should be spelled To-ron-tah. The word is also interpreted as "Oak Trees beside the Lake," a derivation rather divergent from the above version and we must leave this to the learned etymologists.

Glancing over maps of the middle of the eighteenth century designed after the Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle (1748), we see the names of many forts and posts intended to keep up "the communications" between Canada and Louisiana, and overawe the English colonies then confined to their narrow strip of territory on the Atlantic coast. Conscious of the mistake that they had made in giving up Acadia, the French at this moment claimed that its "ancient limits" did not extend beyond the isthmus of Chignecto—in other words, included Nova Scotia. Accordingly they proceeded to construct the forts of Gaspereau and Beauséjour on that neck of land, and also one on the St. John River, so that they might control the land and sea approaches to Cape Breton from the St. Lawrence, where Quebec, enthroned on her picturesque heights, and Montreal at the confluence of the Ottawa and the St. Lawrence, held the keys to Canada. The approaches from New England by the way of Lake Champlain and the Richelieu were defended by the fort of St. John, near the northern extremity of the lake, and by the more formidable works known as Fort Frederick or Crown Point—to give the better known English name—on a peninsula at the narrows towards the South. The latter was the most advanced post of the French until they built Fort Ticonderoga or Carillon on a high, rocky promontory at the head of Lake St. Sacrament. At the foot of this lake, associated with so many memorable episodes in American history, Sir William Johnson erected Fort William Henry, about fourteen miles from Fort Edward or Layman, at the great carrying place on the upper waters of the Hudson. Returning to the St. Lawrence and the Lakes, we find Fort Frontenac at the eastern end of Lake Ontario, where the old city of Kingston now stands.

Within the limits of the present city of Toronto, La Gallissonière then built Fort Rouille[38] as an attempt to control the trade of the Indians of the North, who were finding their way to the English fort of Oswego which had been commenced with the consent of the Iroquois by Governor Burnet of New York, and was now a menace to the French dominion of Lake Ontario. At the other extremity lay Fort Niagara. When the French were establishing this chain of forts or posts through the West and down the Mississippi valley Fort Rouille was founded on a site even then commonly called "Fort Toronto." It does not seem ever to have been a dominant strategic point; the probabilities are there was no force stationed here worth mentioning and, possibly, it was a mere dependency of Fort Niagara. It was destroyed in 1756 to prevent its fall into the hands of the English.

Little is known about the region of Toronto prior to Revolutionary times save the above records. It was untrodden wilderness. But when the fort was erected here the district in a general sense appears to have been known as "Toronto." Under French dominion it was a royal trading post and in the course of time the name attached itself to the fort and village at the neighbouring bay, which have grown to be the beautiful Capital City of Ontario. But the Toronto of the river Don and the great bay is strictly of English origin, and had for its Romulus Lieutenant-General Simcoe (1752-1806), first governor of Upper Canada.

Lieutenant-General Simcoe.

When John Graves Simcoe arrived in Canada in 1792, the site of the present city of Toronto was covered by the primeval forest, its only human tenants being two or three families of wandering savages who had happened to select the spot for the erection of their temporary wigwams. One hundred years later we find at that very spot a magnificent city having a population of 250,000 people, a prosperous and enterprising community, possessed of all the comforts and appliances of modern civilisation and refinement,—and, instead of the sombre, impenetrable wilderness, the most wealthy and populous city of Upper Canada, with streets and private dwellings, and public edifices that will compare favourably with those of many other cities which have had centuries for their development. For its rapid rise to its present eminence Toronto is almost exclusively indebted to its admirable commercial position, its advantages in that respect having been appreciated by the far-seeing sagacity of Governor Simcoe, when selecting the site for a capital.

In 1791, when the former province of Quebec was divided into the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, Upper Canada contained about ten thousand inhabitants, chiefly Loyalists, who, as noted elsewhere, when the United States threw off allegiance to Great Britain, sought new hope in the wilds of Canada; where, though deprived of many comforts, they had the satisfaction of feeling that they kept inviolate their loyalty to their sovereign and preserved their connection with the beloved mother country.

In 1792 General Simcoe was appointed Lieutenant-Governor of Upper Canada; and in the summer of that year arrived in the colony. In the first instance the Government was established at Niagara, and there the first Legislature of Upper Canada was convened on the 17th of September, 1792. It was seen, however, that from its position on the frontier, Niagara was not well adapted for being the seat of government, and one of the first subjects which occupied the attention of Governor Simcoe was the selection of another site for a capital. On this point he very soon came into collision with the views of the Governor-General, Lord Dorchester, who was in favour of making Kingston the capital on account of its proximity to Lower Canada which he regarded as a matter of the first importance from a standpoint of trade, and also because of its possibility of defence, as, in the event of an invasion, troops from Lower Canada could be more easily forwarded to Kingston than to a more westerly point. Governor Simcoe, however, had visited Toronto Harbour, and had traversed the route thence to Penetanguishene on the Georgian Bay. He perceived that that was the most advantageous route for the then existing North-west trade,—the vast development of which since his time he may have dimly foreseen—and that so soon as a road was opened up to Lake Simcoe (then Lacaux Claics) merchandise from New York for the North-west, would be sent by Oswego to Toronto, and then via Lake Simcoe to Lake Huron, avoiding the circuitous passage of Lake Erie. Finally the Lieutenant-Governor's views prevailed, and the site of a town having been surveyed on the margin of Toronto Bay, his first step thereafter was to commence the construction of a road (Yonge Street) to Lake Simcoe. In recent years the idea which thus originated with the first governor has been completely carried out until to-day Toronto is, with Montreal, the chief railway centre and the second city of the Dominion. How long ere it will outrank its rival?

"York Harbor."
A drawing on bark by Mrs. Simcoe.

The very next year after his assumption of the government of Upper Canada General Simcoe ordered the survey of Toronto Harbour, and entrusted the task to Colonel Bouchette, the Surveyor-General of Lower Canada, who gives us our first historical glimpse of Toronto a hundred years ago, or so, in the following passage:

It fell to my lot to make the first survey of York Harbour in 1793. Lieutenant-Governor, the late General Simcoe, who then resided at Navy Hall, Niagara, having formed extensive plans for the improvement of the colony, had resolved upon laying the foundation of a Provincial capital. I was at that period in the naval service of the lakes, and the survey of Toronto (York Harbour), was entrusted by His Excellency to my performance. I still distinctly recollect the untamed aspect which the country exhibited when first I entered the beautiful basin which thus became the scene of my early hydrographical operations. Dense and trackless forests lined the margin of the lake, and reflected their inverted images in its glassy surface. The wandering savage had constructed his ephemeral habitation beneath their luxuriant foliage—the group then consisting of two families of Missassagas—and the Bay and neighbouring marshes were the hitherto uninvaded haunts of the wild fowl; indeed they were so abundant as in some measure to annoy us during the night. In the spring following, the Lieutenant-Governor removed to the site of the new capital, attended by the regiment of Queen's Rangers and commenced at once the realisation of his favourite project. His Excellency inhabited, during the summer and through the winter, a canvas house which he imported expressly for the occasion, but, frail as was its substance, it was rendered exceedingly comfortable, and soon became as distinguished for the social and urbane hospitality of its venerated and gracious host, as for the peculiarity of its structure.

Governor Simcoe gave the name of York to the capital he had selected, and the rivers on either side received the names of the Don and Humber. His own residence he built at the brow of the hill overlooking the valley of the Don, at the junction of what was a few generations later Saint James Cemetery with the property of F. Cayley, Esq., calling it "Castle Frank," the name which the property still retains.

While the gubernatorial residence was being erected Governor Simcoe returned to Niagara, where he opened the third session of the Upper Canada Parliament on June 20, 1794. In the fall of that year, orders were given for the construction of Parliament buildings at York on a site at the foot of what in 1857 was Parliament Street, adjoining the place where the "gaol stands." In 1795 the Duc de Rochefoucauld was in Upper Canada, and in his published Travels alludes to a visit paid to York by some of his companions:

During our stay at Navy Hall, Messrs. Du Petit Thouars and Guillemard, took the opportunity of the return of a gun-boat, to pay a visit to York. Indolence, courtesy towards the Governor (with whom the author was then residing at Navy Hall), and the conviction that I would meet with few objects of interest in that place, combined to dissuade me from this journey. My friends informed me on their return, that this town, which the Governor had fixed upon as the Capital of Upper Canada, has a fine, extensive bay, detached from the lake by a tongue of land of unequal breadth, being in some places a mile, in others only six score yards broad; that the entrance of this bay, about a mile in width, is obstructed in the middle by a shoal or sand-bank, the narrow passages on each side of which may be easily defended by works erected on the two points of land at the entrance, on which two block-houses have already been constructed; that this bay is two miles and a half long, and a mile wide, and that the elevation of its banks greatly increases its capability of defence by fortifications thrown up at convenient points. There have not been more than a dozen houses built hitherto in York, and these are situated in the inner extremity of the bay, near the river Don. The inhabitants, it is said, do not possess the fairest character. One of them is the noted Batzy, the leader of the German families, whom Captain Williamson accuses the English of decoying away from him, in order to injure and obstruct the prosperity of his settlement. The barracks which are occupied by the Governor's Regiment, stand on the bay near the lake, about two miles from the town. The Indians are for one hundred and fifty miles round the sole neighbours of York.

Nothing shows better than this that we must remember that Old World measurements of growth and cultural life cannot be applied to the condition of a new continent where every foot of land had to be taken from the aborigines, a continent in its agricultural infancy, devastated by wars, changing ownership thrice within one hundred years. The Indians in the district one hundred and fifty miles around Toronto have been replaced to-day by a million of people as enterprising as they can be found on the surface of the globe. In lieu of the dozen huts described by our noble writer in 1795, you will find to-day a city of a quarter million inhabitants, steamships, railroads, telegraph, electric light—the "City of Churches."

Toronto, as noted, owes the progress it has made almost entirely to its advantageous commercial position, which was the chief circumstance that originally weighed with General Simcoe in selecting this as a site for the capital of Upper Canada. The city is built on a slope, rising with a very slight inclination from the bay, sufficient to secure its salubrity, and to admit of a complete system of sewerage; but not enough to give its architectural beauties the advantage they deserve to gratify the æsthetic taste which would be disposed to seek on the shores of Lake Ontario for a parallel to the grand old cities of Europe.

Governor Simcoe's amenities and hospitalities, his simplicity, his cares and troubles are all parts of the early history of the province; his administration in Canada has been generally commended, despite the displays of prejudice against the United States. His schemes for improving the province were "extremely wise and well arranged." But his stay was abruptly cut short. It seems to-day that England was fearful he might involve the mother-country in a new war with the young Republic and he was rather hastily recalled to England in 1796, although at the same time promoted a full lieutenant-general in the army.

In 1804 a census of the inhabitants of Toronto was taken, and it was found that they numbered 456. At that time the town was bounded by Berkeley Street on the east, Lot, now Queen Street on the north, and New, now Nelson Street on the west. In 1806, Toronto or York was visited by George Heriot, Esq., Deputy Postmaster-General of British North America, and from the terms in which he speaks of it in his Travels through the Canadas, it appears that it had then made considerable progress. He says:

Many houses display a considerable progress. The advancement of this place to its present condition has been effected within the lapse of six or seven years, and persons who have formerly travelled in this part of the country, are impressed with sentiments of wonder, on beholding a town which may be termed handsome, reared as if by enchantment in the midst of a wilderness.

The Parliament buildings, when Heriot visited Toronto, were two buildings of brick, at the eastern extremity of the town, which had been designed as wings to a centre, and which were occupied as chambers for the Upper and Lower House of Assembly.

In 1807 the inhabitants numbered 1058, and continued slowly to rise till 1813, when the American War brought calamities on to Toronto, from the disastrous effects of which it took more than a decade to recover.

In 1813 the campaigns of the war centred, as we have seen, around Lake Erie. The Navy had lately restored American confidence, and a second invasion of Canada was a principal feature in the programme. At the middle of April Dearborn and Chauncey matured a plan of operations. A joint land and naval expedition was proposed, to first capture York, and then to cross Lake Ontario and reduce Fort George. At the same time troops were to cross the Niagara, from Buffalo and Black Rock, capture Fort Erie and Chippewa, join the fleet and army at Fort George, and all proceed to attack Kingston. Everything being arranged, Dearborn embarked about 1700 men on Chauncey's fleet, at Sacketts Harbour on the 22d of April, and on the 25th the fleet, crowded with soldiers, sailed for York. After a boisterous voyage it appeared before the little town early in the morning of the 27th, when General Dearborn, suffering from ill health, placed the land forces under charge of General Pike, and resolved to remain on board the Commodore's flagship during the attack.

The little village of York, numbering somewhat more than one thousand inhabitants at the time, was then chiefly at the bottom of the bay near a marshy flat, through which the Don, coming down from the beautiful fertile valleys, flowed sluggishly into Lake Ontario, and, because of the softness of the earth there, it was often called "Muddy Little York." It gradually grew to the westward, and, while deserting the Don, it wooed the Humber, once a famous salmon stream, that flows into a broad bay two or three miles west of Toronto. In that direction stood the remains of old Fort Toronto, erected by the French. On the shore eastward of it, between the present new barracks and the city, were two batteries, the most easterly one being in the form of a crescent. A little farther east, on the borders of a deep ravine and small stream, was a picketed block-house, some intrenchments with cannon, and a garrison of about eight hundred men under Major-General Sheaffe. On "Gibraltar Point," the extreme western arm of the peninsula, that embraced the harbour with its protecting arm, was a small blockhouse; another stood on the high east bank of the Don, just beyond a bridge at the eastern termination of King and Queen streets. These defences had been strangely neglected. Some of the cannon were without trunnions, others, destined for the war-vessel then on the stocks, were in frozen mud and half covered with snow. Fortunately for the garrison, the Duke of Gloucester was then in port, undergoing some repairs, and her guns furnished some armament for the batteries. These, however, only amounted to a few six-pounders. The whole country around, excepting a few spots on the lake shore, was covered with a dense forest.

On the day when the expedition sailed from Sacketts Harbour General Pike issued minute instructions concerning the manner of landing and attack.

It is expected [he said] that every corps will be mindful of the honour of the American, and the disgraces which have recently tarnished our arms, and endeavour, by a cool and determined discharge of their duty, to support the one and wipe off the other. [He continued:] The unoffending citizens of Canada are many of them our own countrymen, and the poor Canadians have been forced into the war. Their property, therefore, must be held sacred; and any soldier who shall so far neglect the honour of his profession as to be guilty of plundering the inhabitants, shall, if convicted, be punished with death. But the commanding general assures the troops that, should they capture a large quantity of public stores, he will use his best endeavours to procure them a reward from his government.

"The Garrison at York."
A drawing on bark by Mrs. Simcoe.

It was intended to land at a clearing near old Fort Toronto. An easterly wind, blowing with violence, drove the small boats in which the troops left the fleet full half a mile farther westward, and beyond an effectual covering by the guns of the navy. Major Forsyth and his riflemen, in two bateaux led the van, and when within rifle shot of the shore they were assailed by a deadly volley of bullets by a company of Glengary Fencibles and a party of Indians under Major Givens, who were concealed in the woods that fringe the shore. "Rest on your oars! Prime!" said Forsyth in a low tone. Pike, standing on the deck of the Madison, saw this halting, and impatiently exclaimed, with an expletive: "I cannot stay here any longer! Come," he said, addressing his staff, "jump into the boat." He was instantly obeyed, and very soon they and their gallant commander were in the midst of a fight, for Forsyth's men had opened fire, and the enemy at the shore were returning it briskly. The vanguard soon landed, and were immediately followed, in support, by Major King and a battalion of infantry. Pike and the main body soon followed, and the whole column, consisting of the Sixth, Fifteenth, Sixteenth, and Twenty-First Regiments of Infantry, and detachments of light and heavy artillery, with Major Forsyth's riflemen and Lieutenant McClure's volunteers as flankers, pressed forward into the woods.

The British skirmishes meanwhile had been re-enforced by two companies of the Eighth or King's Regiment of Regulars, two hundred strong, a company of the Royal Newfoundland Regiment, a large body of militia, and some Indians. They took position in the woods, and were soon encountered by the advancing Americans, whose artillery it was difficult to move. Perceiving this, the British, led by General Sheaffe in person, attacked the American flank with a six-pounder and howitzer. A very sharp conflict ensued, and both parties suffered much. Captain McNeil, of the King's Regiment, was killed. The British were overpowered, and fell back, when General Pike, at the head of the American column, ordered his bugler to sound, and at the same time dashed gallantly forward. That bugle blast thrilled like electric fire along the nerves of the Indians. They gave one horrid yell, then fled like frightened deer to cover, deep into the forest. That bugle blast was heard in the fleet, in the face of the wind and high above the voices of the gale, and evoked long and loud responsive cheers. At the same time Chauncey was sending to the shore, under the direction of Commander Elliott, something more effective than huzzas for he was hurling deadly grape-shot upon the foe, which added to the consternation of the savages, and gave fleetness to their feet. They also hastened the retreat of Sheaffe's white troops to their defences in the direction of the village, while the drum and fife of the pursuers were briskly playing Yankee Doodle.

The Americans now pressed forward rapidly along the lake shore in platoons by sections. They were not allowed to load their muskets, and were compelled to rely upon the bayonet. Because of many ravines and little streams the artillery was moved with difficulty, for the enemy had destroyed the bridges. By great exertions a field-piece and a howitzer, under Lieutenant Fanning, of the Third Artillery, was moved steadily with the column. As that column emerged from thick woods, flanked by McClure's volunteers, divided equally as light troops under Colonel Ripley, it was confronted by twenty-four pounders on the Western Battery. Upon this battery the guns of some of Chauncey's vessels which had beat up against the wind in range of the enemy's works were pouring heavy shot. Captain Walworth was ordered to storm it with his grenadiers, of the Sixteenth. They immediately trailed their arms, quickened their pace, and were about to charge, when the wooden magazine of the battery, that had been carelessly left open, blew up, killing some of the men, and seriously damaging the defences. The dismayed enemy spiked their cannon, and fled to the next, or Half-Moon, Battery. Walworth pressed forward; when that, too, was abandoned and he found nothing within but spiked cannon. Sheaffe and his little army, deserted by the Indians, fled to the garrison near the Governor's house, and there opened a fire of round and grape-shot upon the Americans. Pike ordered his troops to halt, and lie flat upon the grass, while Major Eustis, with his artillery-battery moved to the front, and soon silenced the great guns of the enemy.

The firing from the garrison ceased, and the Americans expected every moment to see a white flag displayed from the block-house in token of surrender. Lieutenant Riddle, whose corps had brought up the prisoners taken in the woods, was sent forward with a small party to reconnoitre. General Pike, who had just assisted with his own hands in removing a wounded soldier to a comfortable place, was sitting upon a stump conversing with a huge British sergeant who had been taken prisoner, his staff standing around him. At that moment was felt a sudden tremor of the ground, followed by a tremendous explosion near the British garrison. The enemy, despairing of holding the place, had blown up their powder magazine, situated upon the edge of the water at the mouth of a ravine, near where the buildings of the Great Western Railway now stand. The effect was terrible. Fragments of timber and huge stone of which the magazine walls were built were scattered in every direction over a space of several hundred yards. When the smoke floated away the scene was appalling. Fifty-two Americans lay dead, and one hundred and eighty others were wounded. So badly had the affair been managed that forty of the British also lost their lives by the explosion. General Pike, two of his aids, and the British sergeant were mortally hurt, while Riddle and his party were unhurt, the missiles passing entirely over them. The terrified Americans scattered in dismay, but they were soon rallied by Brigade-Major Hunt and Lieutenant-Colonel Mitchell. The column was re-formed and the general command was assumed by the gallant Pennsylvanian colonel, Cromwell Pearce, of the Sixteenth, the senior officer. After giving three cheers, the troops pressed forward toward the village, and were met by the civil authorities and militia officers with propositions of a capitulation in response to a peremptory demand for surrender made by Colonel Pearce. An arrangement was concluded for an absolute surrender, when, taking advantage of the confusion that succeeded the explosion, and the time intentionally consumed in the capitulation, General Sheaffe and a large portion of his regulars, after destroying the vessels on the stocks, and some storehouses and their contents, stole across the Don, and fled along Dundas Street toward Kingston. When several miles from York they met a portion of the King's Regiment on their way to Fort George. These turned back, covered Sheaffe's retreat, and all reached Kingston in safety. Sheaffe (who was the military successor of Brock) was severely censured for the loss of York. He was soon afterward superseded in command in Upper Canada by Major-General De Rottenburg and retired to Montreal to take command of the troops there.

On hearing of the death of General Pike, General Dearborn went on shore, and assumed command after the capitulation. At sunset the work was finished; both Chauncey and Dearborn wrote brief despatches to the government at Washington; the former saying: "We are in full possession of the place," and the latter: "I have the satisfaction to inform you that the American flag is flying upon the fort at York." The post, with about two hundred and ninety prisoners besides the militia, the war vessel Duke of Gloucester, and a large quantity of naval and military stores, passed into the possession of the Americans. Such of the latter as could not be carried away by the squadron were destroyed. Before the victors left, the public buildings were fired by some unknown hand, and consumed.

Four days after the capitulation, the troops were re-embarked, preparatory to a descent upon Fort George. The post and village of York, possessing little value to the Americans, were abandoned. The British repossessed themselves of the spot, built another block-house, and on the site of the garrison constructed a regular fortification.

The loss of the Americans in the capture of York was sixty-six killed and two hundred and three wounded on land, and seventeen killed and wounded on the vessels. The British lost, besides the prisoners, sixty killed and eighty-nine wounded. General Pike was crushed beneath a heavy mass of stones that struck him in the back. He was carried immediately after discovery to the water's edge, placed in a boat, and conveyed first on board the Pert, and then to the Commodore's flagship. Just as the surgeons and attendants, with the wounded general, reached the little boat, the huzzas of the troops fell upon his benumbed ears. "What does it mean?" he feebly asked. "Victory," said a sergeant in attendance. "The British union-jack is coming down from the blockhouse, and the Stars and Stripes are going up." The dying hero's face was illuminated by a smile of great joy. His spirit lingered several hours, and then departed. Just before his breath ceased the captured British flag was brought to him. He made a sign for them to place it under his head, and thus he expired. His body was taken to Sacketts Harbour, and with that of his pupil and aid, Captain Nicholson, was buried with military honours within Fort Tompkins there.

Captain Sowers's drawings of Fort Niagara, 1769.
From the original in the British Museum.

It was not till 1821 that the town recovered from these disasters, and then the population only amounted to 1559. In 1830 it was 2860; but in 1834, a strong tide of emigration into Canada having set in, the population increased to 9254. In that year the town was incorporated as a city, and Mr. William Lyon Mackenzie was elected the first mayor of Toronto, April 3, 1834. In 1838 the inhabitants numbered 12,571; in 1848, 15,336; in 1861, they had increased to 44,821; in 1871, to 56,039; in 1881, 86,415; in 1891, 181,220; and finally, in 1903, to 266,989.

In 1821, E. A. Talbot, the author of some works of travel[39] visited the town. He states that the public edifices at that time were a Protestant Episcopal Church ("a wooden building with a wooden belfry"), a Roman Catholic Chapel (a brick building "not then completed, but intended to be very magnificent"—the present St. Paul's Church in Power Street), a Presbyterian Meeting House (a brick building, occupying the site of what is now Knox's Church), a Methodist Meeting House, situated in a field, nearly on the present site of the Globe office, the Hospital (the brick building on King Street now known as the Old Hospital, and occupied as Government offices), which Talbot describes as the most important building of the province, "bearing a very fine exterior," the Parliament House (a brick building erected in 1820 on the former site, and destroyed by fire in 1824), and the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor, a wooden building, "inferior to several private houses of the town, particularly that of Rev. Dr. Strachan," says Talbot. The streets, he adds, are regularly laid out, but "only one of them is in a finished state, and in wet weather those of them which are unfinished, are if possible more muddy than the streets of Kingston."

How different to-day, when Toronto has been called the "City of Churches," because of the large number of fine churches that have been erected in it! The distinctive feature of church architecture in Toronto consists in the fact that all denominations have built a considerable number of fine churches instead of concentrating their efforts on the erection of a few of greater magnificence. The large churches are not confined to the central portion but are found widely distributed throughout. Toronto to-day is the see of both Anglican and Roman Catholic archbishops. The city has suffered from destructive conflagrations, notably in 1890, and in April, 1904, when more than one hundred buildings in the wholesale business section were burned down, some five thousand persons were thrown out of work, and about eleven millions' worth of property was destroyed.

The year 1866 is a memorable one in the history of Toronto as well as all Canada as the year of the Fenian raids. The Toronto regiments of volunteers were promptly sent to drive the Fenians out of the Niagara peninsula. The "Queen's Own" met the enemy at Ridgeway, and sustained a loss of seven killed and twenty-three wounded. The beautiful monument erected to the memory of those who fell at Ridgeway is decorated each year on June 2d by their comrades and by the school children of the city. Another monument in Queen's Park commemorates the loyalty and bravery of Toronto volunteers. It records the gallantry of those who were killed during the North-west rebellion of 1885.

Toronto is a notable educational centre. The university is one of the best equipped in America. The first step towards its establishment was taken as early as 1797, but the university was not founded until 1827, chartered and endowed somewhat later, and opened for students in 1843. Until then it had rather a sectarian character, but nowadays it embraces, besides the four principal faculties, the following institutions: Ontario Agricultural College, Royal College of Dental Surgeons, the College of Pharmacy, the Toronto College of Music, the School of Practical Science, and the Ontario Veterinary College. The students in 1905-06 numbered 2547. The University buildings, it is said, are the best specimen of Norman architecture in America. The most beautiful other public buildings of Toronto are: the new Parliament buildings, the new City Hall, Osgood Hall, the Seat of the Provincial Courts and Law School, Trinity University, McMaster University, the Normal School, Upper Canada College, and the Provincial Asylum.

Toronto is pre-eminently a city of homes. It claims to have a larger proportion of good homes and a much smaller proportion of saloons than any city of its size in America. One of the gratifying features of Toronto that distinguishes it from most large cities is the fact that there is no part of the city that can be fairly regarded as a "slum" district.

The city covers a very large area so that there is no overcrowding. Working men have no difficulty in obtaining homes with separate gardens, and it is a common practice to use these gardens in growing both flowers and vegetables.

The Park System is extensive and beautiful, possessing about 1350 acres, the chief being Queen's Park, adjoining the university, and the extensive High Park on the west of the city. But the most popular is probably Island Park, on Hiawatha Island, which lies immediately in front of the city in the form of a crescent about three miles in length.

The following great Canadians were born in Toronto: Professor Egerton Ryerson; Sir John MacDonald; Sir Daniel Wilson; Reverend Wm. Morley Puncheon; Hon. George Brown; Sir Oliver Mowat; but the most widely known Toronto citizen is probably Goldwin Smith, the great historian and economist. Toronto has ever shown itself fervently British in sentiment. Its later history has been purely civic without other interest than that attaching to prosperous growth. A pleasant society and an attractive situation make it a favourite place of residence.

In the first quarter of the nineteenth century, there was a certain Mr. Hetherington in Toronto, one of the clerks of St. James. Now the music of those primitive times seems to have been managed altogether after the old country village choirs. Mr. Hetherington was wont, after giving out the Psalm, to play the air on a bassoon; and then to accompany with fantasias on the same instrument, when any vocalist could be found to take the singing in hand. By-and-by the first symptoms of progress are apparent in the addition of a bass-viol and clarinet to help Mr. Hetherington's bassoon—"the harbinger and foreshadow," as Dr. Scadding says, "of the magnificent organ presented in after-times to the congregation of the 'Second Temple of St. James' by Mr. Dunn, but destroyed by fire, together with the whole church, in 1839, after only two years of existence."

Incidents of a different character no less strongly mark the changes which a period of only ninety years has witnessed. In 1811, namely, we find William Jarvis, Esq., His Excellency's Secretary, lodging a complaint in open court against a negro boy and girl, his slaves. The Parliament at Newark had, indeed, enacted in 1793—in those patriarchal days already described, when they could settle the affairs of the young province under the shade of an umbrageous tree—that no more slaves should be introduced into Upper Canada, and that all slave children born after the 9th of July of that year should be free on attaining the age of twenty-five.

But even by this creditable enactment slavery had a lease of life of fully a quarter of a century longer, and the Gazette Public Advertiser, and other journals, continue for years thereafter to exhibit such announcements as this of the Hon. Peter Russell, President of the Legislative Council, of date, February 19, 1806: "To be sold: a black woman, named Peggy, aged forty years, and a black boy, her son, named Jupiter, aged about fifteen years." The advertisement goes on to describe the virtues of Peggy and Jupiter. Peggy is a tolerable cook and washerwoman, perfectly understands making soap and candles, and may be had for one hundred and fifty dollars, payable in three years, with interest, from the day of sale. Jupiter, having various acquirements besides his specialty as a good house servant, is offered for two hundred dollars, but a fourth less will be taken for ready money. So recently as 1871, John Baker, who had been brought to Canada as the slave of Solicitor-General Gray, died at Cornwall, Ontario, in extreme old age. But before that the very memory of slavery had died out in Canada; and it long formed the refuge which the fugitive slave made for, with no other guide than the pole-star of our northern sky.

The history of Toronto, as already noted, is necessarily to a great extent that of the province, and of the whole region of Canada.

Upper Canada [says Dr. Scadding], in miniature, and in the space of a century, curiously passed through conditions and processes, physical and social, which old countries on a large scale, and in the course of long ages passed through. Upper Canada had its primeval and barbaric, but heroic age, its mediæval and high prerogative era; and then, after a revolutionary period of a few weeks, its modern, defeudalised, democratic era.

[Index]

A

Abbott, Francis, the "Hermit of Niagara,"

[40]

Abercrombie, Sir Ralph, Brock under,

[232]

Allen, Ethan, mentioned,

[222]

Allen, Sadie, shoots the Rapids,

[139]

"American Blondin," the, see Calverly

American Canals, Great

, see Hulbert

American Civic Association mentioned,

[119]

Amherst, Sir Jeffrey, campaign of 1759,

[209]

Anderson, M. B., on first Niagara Commission,

[80]

"Angevine place," building-site of

Griffon

,

[181]

B

Bakewell's estimate of Niagara's age,

[65]

Balleni, tight-rope artist,

[130]

Barton, J. L., reminiscences of early Buffalo,

[7]

Bath Island,

[76]

Biddle Stairs,

[32]

Bird Island,

[30]

,

[76]

Black Rock, origin of name,

[8]

Blondin, career of,

[123]

-

[129]

;

W. D. Howells's description of, [127]-[128]

Blossom, I. A., agent of Holland Land Co.,

[7]

Bourinot, Dr., quoted,

[159]

-

[160]

,

[288]

-

[291]

Braddock, plans to capture Ft. Niagara,

[206]

-

[207]

Brock, Gen. Isaac, sketch of life,

[231]

-

[238]

;

replies to Hull's Proclamation, [244]-[246];

captures Hull, [246]-[253];

relations with the Indians, [252]-[253];

death, [256] ;

eulogies, [257]-[262];

monuments to, [48] , [259]-[262]

Brodie, "Steve," goes over the Falls,

[137]

Browne, G. W., on St. Lawrence,

[4]

,

[161]

;

on De Nonville at Niagara, [187]-[189]

Brulé on Niagara frontier,

[165]

Buckley, A. B.,

Fairyland of Science

, cited,

[168]

Buffalo, N. Y., growth of,

[4]

-

[8]

Buffalo Historical Society mentioned,

[6]

Burnt Ship Bay,

[10]

,

[212]

Burton Act for preservation of Niagara,

[116]

-

[120]

C

Calverly, C. M., the "American Blondin,"

[132]

Campbell, W. G., Niagara crank,

[149]

Canada

(

Story of the Nations

), see Bourinot

Canadian Niagara Falls Power Co.,

[104]

,

[112]

,

[117]

Canals, Great American

, see Hulbert

Cantilever bridge,

[46]

Caroline

, the, incident,

[291]

Cassier's Magazine

quoted,

[121]

Cataract House, the,

[75]

"Cave of the Winds," the,

[28]

,

[31]

-

[33]

Cayuga Creek mentioned,

[10]

Céloron at Niagara,

[203]

Century Magazine

quoted,

[29]

,

[42]

-

[44]

Champlain on Niagara frontier,

[158]

-

[163]

Chippewa Creek,

[46]

; battle of,

[279]

seq.

Chrystie, Col., in War of 1812,

[264]

Church's "Niagara" mentioned,

[14]

Clark, George Rogers, compared with Brock,

[249]

Clark, Dr. John M., on "destruction of Niagara,"

[117]

Colcourt, Henry, Blondin's assistant,

[125]

Colour of Niagara water explained by Mrs. Van Rensselaer,

[42]

-

[44]

Commissioners of N. Y. State Reservation, first report of,

[82]

seq.

Crystal Palace, Blondin at,

[128]

Cutter, O. W., Niagara committeeman,

[89]

D

Dallion, Father, at Niagara,

[166]

"Darting Lines of Spray" explained,

[45]

Day, D. A., report,

[17]

Dearborn, Gen., in War of 1812,

[274]

seq.

De Leon, "Prof.," Niagara crank,

[131]

De Nonville, Gov., on Niagara frontier,

[186]

-

[194]

"Destruction of Niagara" discussed,

[110]

-

[120]

De Troyes at Fort Niagara,

[190]

-

[194]

"Devil's Hole,"

[49]

;

massacre, [214]-[215]

Dittrick, W., Niagara crank,

[148]

Dixon, S. J., tight-rope artist,

[132]

Dogs go over Falls,

[151]

-

[152]

Dorsheimer, William, on first Niagara Commission,

[80]

;

presents the park to New York State, [92]

Dufferin Islands,

[46]

E

Electrical Development Co.,

[117]

Ellicott, Andrew, estimates Niagara's age,

[63]

Erie Canal, importance to Niagara frontier,

[6]

Evershed, Thomas, devises wheel-pits,

[101]

F

Farini, Signor, tight-rope artist,

[129]

Flack, R. W., killed in race in Niagara River,

[148]

Fool-Killer

, see Nissen

Forts: Chippewa,

[46]

;

Drummond, [48] ;

du Portage, [15] ;

Erie, [8] ;

battle of, [285] seq.;

Frontenac, [17] , [170] ;

George, [50] , [274]-[276];

Niagara, the first, [189]-[194];

building, [197]-[202];

during French War and Revolution, [204]-[229];

Sir William Johnson captures, [278] ;

Rouille, [293] ;

Schlosser, [15]

Fuller, Margaret, describes Niagara by night,

[12]

;

on Goat Island flora, [18] ;

quoted, [28]

G

Galinee on Niagara frontier,

[166]

Geology of Niagara,

[52]

seq.

Goat Island,

[16]

-

[19]

,

[25]

,

[29]

,

[40]

,

[74]

Golden Book of Niagara

, names in the,

[79]

Gorge of Niagara, its history,

[63]

seq.

Graham, C. D., performs at Niagara,

[137]

Gravelet, see Blondin

Gray, Dr. Asa, on Goat Island flora,

[16]

Great Lakes, drainage,

[3]

Green, A. H., on first Niagara Commission,

[80]

Green Island,

[30]

Griffon

, the, built at La Salle, N. Y.,

[180]

-

[186]

. See Remington

Gull Island,

[40]

H

Hall, Capt. Basil, experiment at Niagara,

[34]

Hall, Prof. James, survey of Falls,

[65]

Hardy, J. E., tight-rope artist,

[132]

Hazlett, George, Niagara crank,

[139]

"Heart of Niagara,"

[38]

,

[45]

Hennepin, Father, Narrative, quoted,

[168]

,

[173]

-

[184]

Hennepin's View,

[21]

Heriot, George, quoted,

[300]

"Hermit of Niagara," see Abbott

"Hermit's Cascade,"

[40]

Hill, Gov. D. B., signs Niagara Reservation Bill,

[81]

Historic Highways of America

, cited,

[206]

Historic Towns of the Middle West

, quoted,

[5]

Holland Land Co., mentioned,

[7]

Hooker, Sir J., on Goat Island,

[16]

Houghton, George, "The Upper Rapids," quoted,

[13]

How Niagara was Made Free

, see Welch

Howells, W. D., quoted,

[28]

,

[29]

,

[72]

-

[73]

,

[74]

,

[127]

-

[128]

Hulbert, A. B.,

The Ohio River

, cited,

[3]

,

[4]

;

Great American Canals, cited, [6] ;

Historic Highways, cited, [206]

Hull, General, surrenders to Brock,

[243]

,

[277]

-

[279]

Hunt, William M., painting of Niagara,

[14]

Hunter, Colin, view of Niagara rapids,

[11]

I

Ice Age, Niagara in the,

[58]

-

[59]

Ice Bridge,

[39]

Inspiration Point,

[44]

International Railway Co.,

[117]

Iris Island, see Goat Island

Iroquois, dominate Niagara frontier,

[153]

seq.

;

Hennepin's embassy to, [177]-[180]

J

Jay's treaty,

[225]

-

[226]

Jenkins, I. J., tight-rope artist,

[131]

Johnson, Sir William, captures Fort Niagara,

[211]

-

[213]

;

treaty at Fort Niagara, [215]-[216]

Joncaire, Chabert, erects "Magazine Royale,"

[197]

-

[200]

K

Kendall, W. I., swims Niagara rapids,

[136]

King, Alphonse, performs at Niagara,

[136]

-

[7]

L

La Belle Famille

, see Youngstown, N. Y.

La Salle, on Niagara frontier,

[170]

-

[186]

La Salle N. Y., the

Griffon

built at,

[183]

Lewiston Heights,

[50]

,

[264]

-

[265]

Life and Correspondence of Major-General Sir Isaac Brock, K. B.

, see Tupper

Life and Times of General Brock

, see Read

Luna Island,

[31]

Lundy's Lane,

[46]

;

battle of, [282]

Lyell, Sir Charles, estimates Niagara's age,

[65]

M

Mackenzie, William Lyon, Bourinot describes,

[288]

"Magazine Royale," Joncaire builds,

[197]

-

[200]

Mahany, R. B., in

Historic Towns of the Middle States

,

[5]

Maid of the Mist

,

[44]

;

voyage through lower rapids, [144]-[146]

Manchester, see Niagara Falls, N. Y.

Mars, Tesla's project to signal,

[120]

Marshall, O. H., mentioned,

[157]

,

[187]

,

[194]

-

[195]

,

[219]

Matheson, James, advocates reclamation of Niagara,

[77]

Michigan

, brig, sent over the Falls,

[133]

Milet, Father, at Fort Niagara,

[193]

Mohawk River in the Ice Age,

[60]

Montresor, Capt., blockhouse,

[15]

Morgan, William, mentioned,

[202]

N

Nation, The

, on the "desecration of Niagara,"

[78]

Neuter Nation first inhabit Niagara frontier,

[156]

seq.

Newark, see Niagara-on-the-Lake

"New Jerusalem," Major Noah's,

[9]

New York State Reservation, history of,

[77]

-

[96]

New York Times

, on opening of New York Reservation,

[94]

-

[95]

Niagara Book, The

, cited,

[28]

Niagara Falls, N. Y., described,

[96]

-

[98]

Niagara Falls Hydraulic Power and Manufacturing Co.,

[102]

,

[104]

,

[110]

,

[111]

-

[112]

,

[118]

-

[119]

Niagara Falls Power Co.,

[101]

,

[104]

,

[111]

-

[112]

,

[118]

-

[119]

Niagara, Lockport, and Ontario Power Co.,

[114]

-

[115]

Niagara-on-the-Lake,

[50]

,

[227]

-

[230]

Niagara Reservation Act,

[79]

-

[82]

,

[84]

Niagara River, historic importance,

[2]

;

drainage area, [2]-[4];

description of the upper, [8]-[22];

upper rapids of, [10]-[15];

islands of, [12]-[22];

historic sites of upper, [14]-[16];

Falls of, [20] seq.;

bridges over, [21] seq.;

music of, [24]-[27];

Howells on repose of, [28] ;

air pressure at Falls of, [34]-[37];

when dry, [38] ;

in winter, [39] ;

changes in, [41]-[42];

Mrs. Van Rensselaer on colour of, [42]-[44];

view of, from Queen Victoria Park, [44] ;

a tour around, [20]-[51];

the lower, described, [46]-[51];

the geology of, [52]-[71];

recession of Falls of, [63]-[71];

George Frederick Wright on age of, [66]-[70];

during era of private ownership, [72]-[77];

struggle for passage of "Reservation Act," [77]-[82];

Golden Book of, names in, [79] ;

as producer of power, [99]-[122];

volume of, [99] ;

tunnel beneath, [106] ;

manufacturing companies, use of, [111]-[113], [117] ;

use of water of, discussed, [111]-[122];

Burton Act concerning, Taft on, [117]-[120];

Blondin, career on, [123]-[129];

performances of cranks on, [129]-[152] (see Farini, Dixon, Webb, Graham, etc.),

Maid of the Mist sails lower, [144]-[146];

controlled by Iroquois, [153]-[156];

Neuter Nation inhabit banks of, [156]-[157];

French occupation of, [158]-[213];

Cartier hears of, [165] ;

described by Galinee, [166]-[167];

Hennepin describes, [167] seq.;

reached by La Salle, [173]-[186];

the Griffon built on, [181] seq.;

first fort built on, [189] ;

sufferings of first French troops on, [191]-[194];

name of, discussed by Marshall, [194]-[195];

Joncaire on, [197]-[198];

in Old French War, [200] seq.;

French lose, [209]-[212];

in Revolutionary War, [217]-[226];

fixed as international boundary line, [223]-[226];

Loyalists settle upon, [227] seq.;

in the War of 1812, [263] seq.

Nissen, Peter, exploits at Niagara,

[149]

-

[151]

Noah, Maj. N. N., "New Jerusalem,"

[9]

O

Official opening of New York Reservation,

[85]

-

[95]

Ohio River, The

, see Hulbert

"Old Indian Ladder,"

[46]

Old Stone Chimney mentioned,

[15]

Olmsted, F. A., on Goat Island flora,

[16]

-

[18]

;

mentioned, [77]-[78], [119]

Ontario Power Co.,

[104]

,

[108]

,

[112]

,

[117]

Ottawa River, in Ice Age,

[63]

P

Papineau in Patriot War,

[290]

Parkman's works quoted,

[171]

,

seq.

Patch, Sam, jumps at Niagara,

[133]

Patriot War, Bourinot on the,

[288]

-

[291]

Peere, Stephen, tight-rope artist,

[131]

Percy, C. A., goes through rapids,

[146]

-

[149]

Perry, Lieut. O. H., captures Fort George,

[274]

-

[276]

Pike at the capture of York,

[302]

seq.

Pittsburg Reduction and Mining Co.,

[118]

Platt, John J., mentioned,

[80]

Portage, old Niagara,

[15]

,

[18]

Porter's Bluff,

[33]

Porter, Judge,

[37]

,

[38]

,

[96]

Porter, Hon. Peter A.,

Guide Book

,

[11]

;

Old Fort Niagara, [11] , [197] , [200] , [207]-[209], [213] ;

Goat Island, [11] , [19] ;

on proposed attack on Fort Niagara in 1755, [207]-[209];

on commercial importance of Fort Niagara, [213]-[214]

Potts, William, Niagara crank,

[139]

Pouchot, Gen., surrenders Fort Niagara,

[209]

-

[213]

Poughkeepsie Eagle

quoted,

[80]

Power development at Niagara,

[99]

-

[122]

Prideaux, Gen. John, captures Fort Niagara,

[209]

seq.

Prospect Point,

[20]

,

[21]

Q

"Quebec Act," effect of,

[217]

-

[218]

Queen Victoria Park,

[44]

,

[108]

Queen's Royal Hotel,

[51]

Queenston,

[50]

Queenston Heights,

[48]

;

battle on, [263] seq.

R

Rapids of Niagara,

[11]

-

[15]

,

[22]

,

[45]

,

[46]

,

[49]

-

[50]

;

Hunter's painting of, [11] , [14]

Read, D. B.,

The Life and Times of General Brock

, cited,

[232]

Red Jacket, anecdote of,

[22]

Reed, Andrew, suggests reclamation of Niagara,

[77]

Remington, C. K., on the building-site of the

Griffon

,

[183]

Road to Frontenac, The

, mentioned,

[162]

Robb, J. H., on first Niagara Commission,

[80]

Robinson, Joel, sails the

Maid of the Mist

through lower rapids,

[144]

-

[146]

Rogers, Sherman S., on first Niagara Commission,

[80]

S

St. Davids, Ont., in the history of geologic Niagara,

[63]

St. Lawrence drainage,

[3]

St. Lawrence River, George Waldo Browne on,

[4]

Schlosser, Capt.,

[15]

,

[213]

;

see Fort Schlosser

Scott, Gen. Winfield, in War of 1812,

[267]

seq.

Scribner's Monthly

quoted,

[25]

Senecas dominate Niagara frontier,

[5]

Severance, F. H.,

Old Trails of the Niagara Frontier

,

[6]

,

[219]

-

[222]

Sheaffe, Gen., mentioned,

[268]

seq.

Ship Island,

[30]

"Shipyard of the

Griffon

," the, see Remington

Shirley, Gov., plans Niagara attack,

[207]

"Shoreless Sea," the,

[45]

Silliman, Prof., Basil Hall writes,

[34]

-

[35]

Simcoe, Gov., John Graves, mentioned,

[229]

,

[294]

seq.

Smyth, Gen., in War of 1812,

[271]

seq.

Spelterini, Signorina, tight-rope artist,

[130]

Spencer, J. W., estimates Niagara's age,

[66]

Spouting Rock,

[41]

Steadman Bluff,

[30]

Steadman, John, first owner of Goat Island,

[18]

Steel arch bridge, built by Roebling,

[46]

Story of Canada, The

, by Bourinot, quoted,

[288]

-

[291]

Sullivan's campaign of 1779,

[223]

T

Table Rock,

[38]

,

[45]

Taft, Sec'y William H., on the "destruction of Niagara,"

[117]

-

[120]

Talbot, E. A., description of early Toronto,

[308]

Taylor, Mrs. A. E., barrel-fiend,

[141]

-

[143]

Tempest Point,

[104]

Terrapin Rocks,

[33]

,

[37]

-

[38]

Terrapin Tower,

[33]

,

[37]

Tesla, Nikola, on Niagara electrical power,

[120]

Thayer, Eugene, on the music of Niagara,

[25]

-

[26]

Thompson, Sir William, prophesies era of electricity,

[77]

Three Sister Island,

[40]

Tonawanda, N. Y., mentioned,

[10]

Toronto, Ont.,

[51]

;

history of, [292]-[313]

Toronto and Niagara Power Co.,

[104]

,

[105]

,

[112]

,

[121]

Tupper, Ferdinand Brock,

The Life and Correspondence of Major-General

Sir Isaac Brock, K. B., cited, [232]

Tyndall, Prof., on Terrapin Rocks,

[33]

U

United Empire Loyalists,

[228]

Upper Canada, and Lower, divided,

[295]

V

Van Rensselaer, Mrs. Schuyler, on Niagara, quoted,

[24]

,

[27]

,

[42]

-

[44]

Van Rensselaer, Col. Solomon,

[264]

-

[266]

Van Rensselaer, Gen. Stephen,

[263]

Victoria Falls compared with Niagara Falls,

[13]

W

Wagenfuhrer, Martha E., barrel-crank at Niagara,

[140]

War of 1812,

[263]

-

[291]

Webb, Capt. Matthew, drowned at Niagara,

[134]

-

[135]

Welch, Thomas V., labours to enfranchise Niagara,

[79]

;

How Niagara was Made Free, cited, [79]-[82];

mentioned, [81] , [89]

Whirlpool, the,

[47]

,

[50]

Whitney, Gen. P.,

[40]

Willard, Maud, Niagara crank, killed,

[140]

Woodward, Prof., surveys Niagara Falls,

[65]

Wool, Capt., hero of Queenston Heights,

[265]

seq.

Wright, Dr. Geo. Frederick, makes new estimate of Niagara's age,

[66]

-

[70]

Y

York, Ont., Americans capture,

[300]

-

[306]

York Harbour, early description,

[296]

-

[297]

Youngstown, N. Y.,

[50]

;

skirmish at, [211]

FOOTNOTES:

[1] The Ohio River; A Course of Empire, p. 359.

[2] Frank H. Severance in his delightful Old Trails of the Niagara Frontier has several most interesting chapters relating to the Buffalo neighbourhood. Mr. Severance has done, through the Buffalo Historical Society, much good work in keeping warm the affection of the present generation for the memory of the past, its heroes and its sacrifices.

[3] See A. B. Hulbert, The Great American Canals, vol. ii., p. 111.

[4] Congressman Peter A. Porter's Guide Book may be recommended highly; its use to the present writer, taken in addition to its author's personal assistance and advice, must be acknowledged in the most unreserved way. Numerous references to Mr. Porter's various monographs, especially his Old Fort Niagara and Goat Island, in addition to his Guide, will be met with frequently in this volume. To one really interested in Niagara history Old Fort Niagara will be found most attractive and comprehensive; its numerous references to authorities put it quite in a class by itself among local histories.

[5] Frederick Almy in The Niagara Book, p. 51. This volume has been of perennial interest to the author because of the contributions of the venerable William Dean Howells and E. S. Martin. No one who in early life has essayed the life of journalist and correspondent can read Mr. Howells's article in this little book without immense relish: its humour is contagious, and its descriptions of Niagara in 1860, fascinating.

[6] Goat Island, p. 28. This most interesting pamphlet by Mr. Porter will be found quite a complete guide to a study of Niagara Falls, and is most worthy the perusal of those who care to examine more than the mere surface of things at Niagara.

[7] Scribner's Monthly, vol. xxi., pp. 583-6.

[8] The Niagara Book, p. 15.

[9] The Century Magazine, vol. xxxvi., p. 197.

[10] The Century Magazine, xxxvi., 198-201.

[11] The Nation, No. 84 (September 1, 1881).

[12] Mr. Thomas V. Welch, loc. cit.

[13] Senate Document, No. 35, Albany, N. Y.

[14] Resolved, That this board hereby selects and locates the lands hereafter described, situate in the village of Niagara Falls, and the County of Niagara and State of New York, as in the opinion of this board proper and necessary to be reserved for the purpose of preserving the scenery of the falls of Niagara, and restoring the said scenery to its natural condition, and does hereby determine to take such land for the purposes aforesaid, and which said land is bounded and described as follows, to-wit: All that certain piece or parcel of land situate in the village of Niagara Falls, town and County of Niagara, State of New York, distinguished in part as part of lots numbers forty-two (42), forty-three (43), and forty-four (44) of the mile strip, as the same was surveyed and conveyed by the State of New York, in part as islands known as Goat island, Bath island, the Three Sisters, Bird island, Luna island, Chapin island, Ship island, Brig island, Robinson's island, and other small islands lying in Niagara river adjacent and near to the islands above-named, and in part as lands lying under the Niagara river, bounded and described as follows, to-wit:
Beginning at a point on the easterly bank of the Niagara river, where the same is met and intersected by the division line between lands now or formerly occupied by Albert H. Porter, and lands now or formerly owned or occupied by the Niagara Falls Hydraulic and Manufacturing Canal Company; running thence on a course north three degrees forty-nine and one-fourth minutes west; along said last mentioned division line, one (1) chain and ninety-five (95) links to a stone monument standing in the southerly line of Buffalo street, in the village of Niagara Falls; thence on a course south eighty-six degrees forty-five and one-fourth minutes west along said southerly line of Buffalo street ninety and nine-tenths (90.9) links to a point in the division line between lands now or formerly owned or occupied by Albert H. Porter, and lands now or formerly owned or occupied by the estate of Augustus S. Porter; thence on a course south eighty-six degrees forty-five and one-fourth minutes west along said southerly line of Buffalo street ninety and nine-tenths (90.9) links to a point in the division line between lands now or formerly owned or occupied by the estate of Augustus S. Porter and lands owned or occupied by Jane S. Townsend; thence on a course south eighty-six degrees forty-five and one-fourth minutes west, along said southerly line of Buffalo street, two (2) chains and seventy (70) links to the intersection of the same with the easterly line of Seventh street; thence on the same course south eighty-six degrees forty-five and one-fourth minutes west, across said Seventh street, one (1) chain and three-tenths (.3) of a link to the westerly boundary thereof; thence along said westerly boundary of Seventh street and on a course south three degrees forty-nine and one-half minutes east, one (1) chain and fifty-four and seventy-seven one-hundredths (54.77) links to a point in said westerly line of Seventh street, distant seventy-six (76) links northerly, measuring on said westerly line of Seventh street, from the intersection of the same with the northerly line of River street; thence on a course south fifty-seven degrees forty-seven and one-fourth minutes, west one (1) chain and sixteen (16) links to a point in the division line between lands now or formerly owned or occupied by Albert H. Porter and lands now or formerly owned or occupied by Mrs. George W. Holley, which said point is distant northerly measuring along said division line seventy (70) links from the northerly line of River street; thence on a course south fifty-six degrees fifty-five and one-half minutes west, one (1) chain and sixteen (16) links to a point; thence south fifty-eight degrees forty minutes west, one (1) chain and fifteen (15) links to a point; thence south sixty-three degrees forty-three and one-fourth minutes west one (1) chain and eleven (11) links to a point; thence south sixty-seven degrees nineteen and one-fourth minutes west, one (1) chain and sixty (60) links to a point in the division line between lands owned or occupied by Mrs. George W. Holley and lands owned or occupied by Jane S. Townsend distant sixty (60) links northerly measured on said division line from the northerly boundary of River street; thence on a course south seventy-two degrees nineteen minutes west, two (2) chains and ten (10) links to a point in the division line between lands owned or occupied by Jane S. Townsend, and lands owned or occupied by Josephine M. Porter, distant, measuring on said division line sixty-four (64) links northerly from the northerly boundary of River street; thence on a course south seventy-three degrees thirty-four and one-half minutes west, one (1) chain and four (4) links to a point; thence south seventy-six degrees twenty-eight and one-half minutes west, one (1) chain and two (2) links to a point; thence south eighty-two degrees four and three-fourths minutes west, one (1) link to a point, thence south eighty-six degrees forty-three and one-fourth minutes west, one (1) chain to a point; thence south eighty-nine degrees fifty-six minutes west, one (1) chain to a point; thence north eighty-eight degrees forty-three minutes west one (1) chain and one (1) link to a point in the easterly boundary of Fourth street, distant ninety (90) links northerly, measuring on said easterly boundary of Fourth street, from the intersection of the same with the northerly boundary of River street; thence across said Fourth street and on a course north eighty-two degrees thirty-two and one-half minutes west, one (1) chain and one (1) link to a point in the westerly boundary of Fourth street, distant eighty-six (86) links northerly measuring on said westerly boundary of Fourth street; from the intersection of the same with the northerly line of River street: thence on a course north seventy-eight degrees fifty-three minutes west, two (2) chains and six (6) links to a point in the division line between lands owned or occupied by Peter A. Porter, and land owned or occupied by S. M. Whitney, which point is distant seventy (70) links northerly, measuring on said division line, from the northerly line of River street; thence on a course north seventy-nine degrees seventeen and three-fourths minutes west, one (1) chain and three (3) links to a point; thence north seventy-six degrees eight minutes west, one (1) chain and four (4) links to a point; thence north seventy-three degrees seven and one-fourth minutes west, ninety-five (95) links to a point; thence north seventy-one degrees twenty-five and one-fourth minutes west, fifty (50) links to a point in the division line between lands owned or occupied by S. M. Whitney, and lands owned or occupied by Albert H. Porter which point is distant northerly, measuring on said division line, seventy (70) links from the northerly line of River street; thence on a course north sixty-eight degrees thirty-five and one-fourth minutes west, sixty-eight (68) links to a point; thence north sixty-three degrees thirty-eight and one-fourth minutes-west, ninety-eight (98) links to a point; thence north fifty-three degrees fifteen and one-fourth minutes west, one (1) chain and thirteen (13) links to a point in the division line between lands owned or occupied by Albert H. Porter and lands owned or occupied by Jane S. Townsend, which point is distant northerly, measuring on said division line, ninety-two (92) links from the northerly line of River street; running thence on a course north forty-eight degrees fifty-six and one-fourth minutes west, eighty-nine (89) links to a point; thence north fifty degrees one and one-half minutes west, one (1) chain and two (2) links to a point; thence north fifty-five degrees two and one-half minutes west, one (1) chain and one (1) link to a point; thence north sixty degrees ten minutes west, fifty (50) links to a point in the division line between lands owned or occupied by Jane S. Townsend and lands owned or occupied by the heirs of Augustus S. Porter, which point is distant northerly, measuring on said division-line, one (1) chain and fifty-six (56) links from the northerly line of River street; thence on a course north sixty degrees fifteen and one-half minutes west, fifty (50) links to a point; thence north sixty-seven degrees ten and one-half minutes west, ninety-nine (99) links to a point; thence north sixty-eight degrees nineteen and three-fourths minutes west, one (1) chain to a point; thence north seventy-one degrees forty-five and one-fourth minutes west, one (1) chain to a point distant one (1) chain and twenty-eight (28) links, measuring on a course north twenty-seven degrees east from the northerly line of River street; thence on a course north sixty-three degrees fifty-five and one-half minutes west, one (1) chain and eleven (11) links to a point; thence north fifty-five degrees one and one-fourth minutes west, one (1) chain to a point; thence north fifty-one degrees forty-one and one-half minutes west, eighty-nine (89) links to a point; thence north forty-seven degrees fifty minutes west eighty-three (83) links to a point; thence north forty-five degrees forty-two minutes west, one (1) chain and two (2) links to a point; thence north forty-two degrees twenty-five minutes west, two (2) chains and two (2) links to a point; thence north forty-three degrees seventeen and three-fourths minutes west, one (1) chain and nine (9) links to a point in the easterly boundary of Mill street, distant northerly, measuring along said easterly boundary of Mill street, twenty (20) links from the intersection of the same with the northerly boundary of River street; thence on a course north twenty-eight degrees nineteen and one-fourth minutes east, and along said easterly boundary of Mill street, two (2) chains and thirty (30) links to the intersection of said easterly line of Mill street with the southerly line of Buffalo street; thence on a course north sixty-two degrees forty-five minutes west, across said Mill street, one (1) chain to the westerly boundary line thereof, and to the point of intersection of the westerly line of Mill street with the southerly line of Buffalo street; thence on a course north sixty-one degrees thirty-two minutes west, along the southerly boundary of Buffalo street, five (5) chains and thirty-two (32) links to the point of intersection of the southerly line of Buffalo street with the easterly boundary line of the Mill slip (so called), which point is distant northerly measuring on said easterly line of the Mill slip, seventy-one (71) links from the intersection of the same with the northerly line of River street; thence on a course north sixty-one degrees thirty-two minutes west, across said Mill slip, fifty-one and forty-two one-hundredths (51.42) links to a point in the westerly boundary line thereof, distant northerly, measuring along said westerly line of said Mill slip, seventy-five and twenty-three one-hundredths (75.23) links from the intersection of the same with the northerly line of River street; thence along said westerly boundary line of said Mill slip and on a course south fifty-four degrees four and three-fourths minutes west, seventy-five and twenty-three one-hundredths (75.23) links to the intersection of said westerly boundary line of said Mill slip with the northeasterly boundary line of River street; thence on a course north thirty-three degrees ten minutes west, along said north-easterly boundary line of River street, five (5) chains and seventy-four and two-tenths (74.2) links to a point in said northeasterly line of River street, where the same is intersected by the southerly line of Bridge street, which point is marked by a stone monument erected at the intersection of said lines of said streets; thence on a course north six degrees thirty-six and one-fourth minutes east, across said Bridge street, one (1) chain and three (3) links to the northerly boundary line thereof, and to the point of intersection of the northerly boundary line of Bridge street with the northeasterly line of Canal street; thence on a course north thirty-seven degrees thirty-three and one-half minutes west, and along said northeasterly boundary line of Canal street four (4) chains and eighty-seven (87) links to the intersection of said northeasterly line of Canal street with the southerly line of Falls street; thence on a course north thirty-seven degrees thirty-six and three-fourths minutes west, one (1) chain and eighty-two (82) links across Falls street to the northerly boundary thereof; thence on a course north thirty-seven degrees thirty-six and three-fourths minutes west, and along said north-easterly line of Canal street, one (1) chain and twenty-two (22) links to an angle in said north-easterly line of Canal street; thence on a course north two degrees thirty-eight and one-fourth minutes west, and along the easterly line of Canal street, ten (10) chains and one and eighty-five one-hundredths (1.85) links to the intersection of the easterly line of Canal Street with the southerly line of Niagara street; thence on a course south eighty-seven degrees fourteen minutes west, across said Canal street, one (1) chain and fifty and thirty-four one-hundredths (50.34) links to the westerly boundary line thereof; thence on a course south two degrees fifty-one minutes east, along said westerly boundary line of Canal street, two (2) chains and sixty-seven and twelve one-hundredths (67.12) links to a point in the westerly line of Canal street, supposed to be the northeasterly corner of Prospect Park (so called); thence on a course south eighty-six degrees nineteen and one-half minutes west, along the north boundary of said Prospect Park, one (1) chain and three (3) links to an angle in said boundary line; thence on a course north fifty-two degrees eighteen minutes west, along said northerly boundary of said Prospect Park, six (6) chains and eighty-five (85) links to the water's edge of the Niagara river; thence along said line prolonged into said river, and on a course north fifty-two degrees eighteen minutes west, more or less, to the boundary line between the United States of America and the Dominion of Canada; thence along said boundary line up the middle of said river to the Great Falls; thence up the falls through the point of the Horse Shoe, keeping to the west of Iris or Goat island and the group of small islands at its head, and following the bends of the river, and along said boundary line to a point at which said boundary line meets, and is intersected by the prolongation of the line running north three degrees forty-nine and one-fourth minutes west, first above mentioned; thence following said line, and on a course north three degrees forty-nine and one-fourth minutes west, more or less, to the point or place of beginning.
Together with all the right, title, and interest of all persons or corporations of, in, and to the premises embraced within said boundary lines, including all water-rights, made-land (so called), débris, titles, or claims (if any) to lands lying under the Niagara river, rights of riparian owners, easements, and appurtenances of every name and nature whatsoever, including all the rights of, in, and to all streets, or portions of streets, embraced and included within said boundary lines.

[15] Vol. lvi., p. 106, seq.

[16] Canada, p. 72, Story of the Nations Series.

[17] A very excellent account of the battle of Lake Champlain is found in The St. Lawrence River, Ch. vi., by George Waldo Browne.

[18] The Old Northwest, p. 25. A novel, The Road to Frontenac, presents a clear picture of French-Iroquois hostility on the St. Lawrence.

[19] Hennepin's exaggerations add a spice to his marvellous stories as is true of Arabella B. Buckley's The Fairyland of Science (p. 122) wherein we read: "The river Niagara first wanders through a flat country and then reaches the Great Lake Erie in a hollow plain. After that it flows gently down for about fifteen miles and then the slope becomes greater and it rushes on to the Falls of Niagara." Every age has its Hennepins!

[20] Discovery of the West, pp. 115-16.

[21] The exact spot of building is the subject of a monograph The Shipyard of the Griffon by Cyrus Kingsbury Remington (Buffalo, N. Y. 1891), in which the author, while advocating his own theory, presents liberally views held by those in disagreement with himself. We find O. H. Marshall in accord with Mr Remington that what is known as the "Old Ship Yard" or Angevine place, at La Salle, was the site of the building of the Griffon.

[22] The Narrative is given in full with careful introduction and explanations in Marshall's Writings, pp. 123-186.

[23] A most thrilling account of this fort-building effort at the mouth of the Niagara is to be found in Severance, Old Trails of the Niagara Frontier, on which the present writer has based his description here given.

[24] Colonial Documents of New York, vol. ix., p. 773; in the history of the French régime at Niagara special acknowledgment must be made to Porter's Brief History of Old Fort Niagara (Niagara Falls, 1896), which is particularly rich in references to the important sources of information concerning the French along and at the mouth of the Niagara River.

[25] Colonial Documents of New York, vol. ix., pp. 952, 958.

[26] Logstown?

[27] In the author's Historic Highways of America, vol. iv., chap. 2, this whole problem is discussed and Cumberland's instructions quoted.

[28] The record of these bloody years is hinted in the number of prisoners brought to Niagara. On this topic Frank H. Severance writes [In Old Trails on the Niagara Frontier, pp. 89-91. Mr. Severance, Secretary of the Buffalo Historical Society, has ably taken the place of the eminent scholar of the Niagara country O. H. Marshall. In his volume above quoted Mr. Severance provides a most interesting, scholarly series of papers which no one who loves New York's old frontier should miss. Our story of the famine at De Nonville's fort was written with Mr. Severance's book open before us.]:
"Just how many American prisoners were brought into Fort Niagara during this period I am unable to say, though it is possible that from the official correspondence of the time figures could be had on which a very close estimate could be based. My examination of the subject warrants the assertion that several hundred were brought in by the war-parties under Indian, British, and Tory leaders. In this correspondence, very little of which has ever been published, one may find such entries as the following:

"Guy Johnson wrote from Fort Niagara, June 30, 1781:
"'In my last letter of the 24th inst. I had just time to enclose a copy of Lieut. Nelles's letter with an account of his success, since which he arrived at this place with more particular information by which I find that he killed thirteen and took seven (the Indians not having reckoned two of the persons whom they left unscalped). . . .'
"Again:
"'I have the honour to transmit to Your Excellency a general letter containing the state of the garrison and of my Department to the 1st inst., and a return, at the foot, of the war parties that have been on service this year, . . . by which it will appear that they have killed and taken during the season already 150 persons, including those last brought in. . . .'
"Again he reports, August 30, 1781:
"'The party with Capt. Caldwell and some of the Indians with Capt. Lottridge are returning, having destroyed several settlements in Ulster County, and about 100 of the Indians are gone against other parts of the frontiers, and I have some large parties under good leaders still on service as well as scouts towards Fort Pitt. . . .'
"Not only are there many returns of this sort, but also tabulated statements, giving the number of prisoners sent down from Fort Niagara to Montreal on given dates, with their names, ages, names of their captors, and the places where they were taken. There were many shipments during the summer of '83, and the latest return of this sort which I have found in the archives is dated August 1st of that year, when eleven prisoners were sent from the fort to Montreal. It was probably not far from this time that the last American prisoner of the Revolution was released from Fort Niagara. But let the reader beware of forming hasty conclusions as to the cruelty or brutality of the British at Fort Niagara. In the first place, remember that harshness or kindness in the treatment of the helpless depends in good degree—and always has depended—upon the temperament and mood of the individual custodian. There were those in command at Fort Niagara who appear to have been capable of almost any iniquity. Others gave frequent and conspicuous proofs of their humanity. Remember, secondly, that the prisoners primarily belonged to the Indians who captured them. The Indian custom of adoption—the taking into the family circle of a prisoner in place of a son or husband who had been killed by the enemy—was an Iroquois custom, dating back much further than their acquaintance with the English. Many of the Americans who were detained in this fashion by their Indian captors, probably never were given over to the British. Some, as we know, like Mary Jemison, the White Woman of the Genesee, adopted the Indian mode of life and refused to leave it. Others died in captivity, some escaped. Horatio Jones and Jasper Parrish were first prisoners, then utilised as interpreters, but remained among the Indians. And in many cases, especially of women and children, we know that they were got away from the Indians by the British officers at Fort Niagara, only after considerable trouble and expense. In these cases the British were the real benefactors of the Americans, and the kindness in the act cannot always be put aside on the mere ground of military exchange, prisoner for prisoner. Gen. Haldimand is quoted to the effect that he 'does not intend to enter into an exchange of prisoners, but he will not add to the distresses attending the present war, by detaining helpless women and children from their families.'"
In justice to Col. Guy Johnson's administration at Fort Niagara, as well as to give one of the clearest (if biased) views of the trials and perplexities of those hard days, we reproduce a "Review of Col. Johnson's Transactions"; as Mr. Severance notes, this review shows "the real state of affairs at Fort Niagara towards the close of the Revolutionary war" better than does almost any other document [I quote Mr. Severance's copy from _Canadian Archives_, Series B, vol. 106, p. 122, _et seq._]:

"Montreal, 24th March, 1782.

"Before Colonel Johnson arrived at Niagara in 1779 the Six Nations lived in their original possessions the nearest of which was about 100 and the farthest about 300 miles from that post. Their warriors were called upon as the service required parties, which in 1776 amounted to about 70 men, and the expenses attending them, and a few occasional meetings ought to have been and he presumes were a mere Trifle when compared with what must attend their situation when all [were] driven to Niagara, exposed to every want, to every temptation, and with every claim which their distinguished sacrifices and the tenor of Soloman [solemn] Treaties had entitled them to from Government. The years 1777 & 1778 exhibited only a larger number occasionally employed and for their fidelity and attachment to Government they were invaded in 1779 by a rebel army reported to be from 5 to 600 men with a train of Artillery who forced them to retire to Niagara leaving behind them very fine plantations of corn and vegetables, with their cloathing, arms, silver works, Wampum Kettles and Implements of Husbandry, the collection of ages of which were destroyed in a deliberate manner and march of the rebels. Two villages only escaped that were out of their route.

"The Indians having always apprehended that their distinguished loyalty might draw some such calamity towards them had stipulated that under such circumstances they effected [expected] to have their losses made up as well as a liberal continuation of favours and to be supported at the expence of Government till they could be reinstated in their former possessions. They were accordingly advised to form camps around Niagara which they were beginning to do at the time of Colonel Johnson's arrival who found them much chagrined and prepared to reconcile them to their disaster which he foresaw would be a work of time requiring great judgment and address in effecting which he was afterwards successful beyond his most sanguine expectations, and this was the state of the Indians at Colonel Johnson's arrival. As to the state and regulation of Colonel Johnson's officers and department at that period he found the duties performed by 2 or three persons the rest little acquainted with them and considered as less capable of learning them, and the whole number inadequate to that of the Indians, and the then requisite calls of the service, and that it was necessary after refusing the present wants of the Indians to keep their minds occupied by constant military employment, all which he laid before the Commander in Chief who frequently honoured his conduct with particular approbation."

[29] Here, the story runs, the brother of Sir Walter Scott concocted the plots and outlines of Sir Walter's famous novels and sent them on to England to be polished up for publication—a story worthy of a Hennepin.

[30] The Life and Correspondence of Major-General Sir Isaac Brock, K.B., by Ferdinand Brock Tupper, p. 16. This most interesting volume has furnished very much of the material for this chapter. D. B. Read's Life and Times of General Brock is an excellent book for popular use and will be found quoted herein.

[31] One cause of desertion seems to have been the ubiquitous American girl. In a later letter Brock wrote:

"Not a desertion has been attempted by any of the 49th for the last ten months, with the exception, indeed, of Hogan. He served Glegg, who took him with him to the Falls of Niagara, where a fair damsel persuaded him to this act of madness, for the fellow cannot possibly gain his bread by labour, as he has half killed himself with excessive drinking; and we know he cannot live upon love alone."

[32] A letter from Colonel Kempt runs: "I have just received a long letter . . . giving me an account of a splendid ball given by you to the beau monde of Niagara and its vicinity, and the manner in which she speaks of your liberality and hospitality reminds me of the many pleasant hours I have passed under your roof. We have no such parties now, and the indisposition of Sir James having prevented the usual public days at the castle, nothing more stupid than Quebec now is can be imagined."

[33] British Ambassador to the United States.

[34] In the face of the fact here divulged concerning Proctor's attitude toward Brock's determination to move upon Detroit it is interesting to remember Brock's very high praise of Proctor in his report of the capture. His words, so characteristic of the gentleman, were: "I have been admirably supported by Colonel Proctor. . . ."

[35] P. 60.

[36] The reference here is to the failure of the British to assist the Indian confederacy withstand General Wayne's invasion of the Maumee Valley which ended in the victory of Fallen Timber.

[37] That Brock feared the Indians when acting in unison, that is, when not "interspersed" among the troops, is perfectly plain from his letter to General Prevost of July 3d.

[38] Named in honour of a French Minister of Colonies. The Rouillés are a celebrated family, later on styled Rouille-de-Marboeuf. The above-named Rouille is highly praised by St. Simon as a statesman of ability and integrity.

[39] Five Years' Residence in the Canadas.

Transcriber's Notes:

original hyphenation, spelling and grammar have been preserved as in the original

various "Denonville" changed to "De Nonville" [Ed. for consistency]

Page xii, "Fort Missisagga" changed to "Fort Mississauga"

Page 2, "Lake Superior. 381 miles" changed to "Lake Superior, 381 miles"

Page 3, "length. the Niagara" changed to "length, the Niagara"

Page 50, "Fort Mississagua" changed to "Fort Mississauga"

Page 82, "Albany, N Y" changed to "Albany, N. Y."

Page 88, "with the nortnerly" changed to "with the northerly"

Page 95, "made to day." changed to "made to-day."

Pages 124,126,127 "tight rope" changed to "tight-rope" [Ed. for consistency]

Page 169, "Raddison" changed to "Radisson"

Page 179, "Belief to the fame." changed to "Belief to the same."

Page 187, "Writings, 123-186." changed to "Writings, pp. 123-186."

Page 210, "Mississaga" changed to "Mississauga"

Page 262, "this Monuument" changed to "this Monument"

Page 268, 269, "Scheaffe" changed to "Sheaffe"

Page 278 plate, "Fort Missisagua" changed to "Fort Mississauga"

Page 281, "Mississaga" changed to "Mississauga"

Page 317, "Magazine Royale" changed to "Magazine Royale,"

Page 317, "MagazineRoyale," changed to "Magazine Royale,"

Page 317, "see Niagara-on-the Lake" changed to "see Niagara-on-the-Lake"