| | To face page |
| His Majesty the Shah of Persia | [Frontispiece] |
| The Baku Oil Wells | [20] |
| The Amir of Bokhara leaving Baku to return to his Country | [26] |
| Persian Wrestling | [38] |
| Fourgons on the Russian Road between Resht and Teheran | [50] |
| Making a Kanat | [74] |
| The Murderer of Nasr-ed-din Shah | [90] |
| Persian Cossacks (Teheran) Drilled by Russian Officers | [100] |
| The Eftetahié College, supported by Meftah-el-Mulk | [102] |
| H. E. Mushir-ed-Doulet, Minister of Foreign Affairs | [106] |
| Persian Soldiers—The Band | [112] |
| Recruits learning Music | [112] |
| The Arrival of a Caravan of Silver at the Imperial Bank of Persia | [126] |
| The Imperial Bank of Persia Decorated on the Shah's Birthday | [134] |
| A Typical Persian Window. (Mr. Rabino's House, Teheran.) | [140] |
| The First Position in Persian Wrestling | [158] |
| Palawans, or Strong Men giving a Display of Feats of Strength | [158] |
| Iman Jumeh. Head Priest of Teheran, and Official Sayer of Prayers to the Shah | [170] |
| Sahib Divan, who was at various periods Governor of Shiraz and Khorassan | [190] |
| Persian Woman and Child | [206] |
| A Picturesque Beggar Girl | [206] |
| Ruku Sultaneh, Brother of the present Shah | [218] |
| The Shah in his Automobile | [224] |
| The Sadrazam's (Prime Minister's) Residence, Teheran | [224] |
| In the Shah's Palace Grounds, Teheran | [230] |
| The Shah and his Suite | [240] |
| Rock Sculpture near Shah-Abdul-Azim | [244] |
| Author's Diligence between Teheran and Kum | [244] |
| The Track along the Kohrut Dam | [270] |
| Between Gyabrabad and Kohrut | [270] |
| The Interior of Chappar Khana at Kohrut | [272] |
| Chapparing—the Author's post horses | [278] |
| Persian Escort firing at Brigands | [278] |
| Jewish Girls, Isfahan | [292] |
| An Isfahan Jew | [292] |
| The Square, Isfahan | [298] |
| The Palace Gate, Isfahan | [304] |
| Boys Weaving a Carpet | [314] |
| Cotton Cleaners | [314] |
| Handsome Doorway in the Madrassah, Isfahan | [322] |
| One of Zil-es-Sultan's Eunuchs | [326] |
| The "Hall of Forty Columns," Isfahan | [326] |
| The Quivering Minarets near Isfahan | [330] |
| H.R.H. Zil-es-Sultan, Governor of Isfahan | [350] |
| Agriculture and Pigeon Towers near Isfahan | [352] |
| Persian Spinning Wheels and Weaving Looms | [366] |
| Halting at a Caravanserai | [380] |
| A Street in Yezd, showing High Badjirs or Ventilating Shafts | [380] |
| Ardeshir Meheban Irani and the Leading Members of the Anguman-i-Nasseri (Parsee National Assembly), Yezd | [394] |
| Parsee Priests of Yezd Officiating during Ceremony in their Fire Temple | [400] |
| Interior of Old Caravanserai with Central Water Tank | [410] |
| Typical Caravanserai and Mud Fort in the Desert between Yezd and Kerman | [414] |
| A Trade Caravanserai, Kerman | [414] |
| H. E. Ala-el-Mulk, Governor of Kerman, in his Palace | [432] |
| Tiled Walls and Picturesque Windows in the Madrassah, Kerman | [438] |
| Sirkar Agha's Son, the Head of the Sheikhi Sect, Kerman | [438] |
| The Interior of a Hammam or Bath—First Room | [442] |
| The Hot Room in a Persian Bath | [444] |
| The Kala-i-Dukhtar or Virgin Fort | [444] |
| Graveyard and Kala-i-Dukhtar or Virgin Fort, Kerman | [446] |
| Ruined Houses of Farmitan | [450] |
| Plan of House at Farmitan | [450] |
| A Steep Rock Climb, Kerman | [454] |
| A View of the Kerman Plain from the "Ya Ali" Inscription | [458] |
| Wives Returning from the Pilgrimage for Sterile Women | [458] |
| Map at the End of Volume. | [461] |
| Chapter | Paragraph Description | Page |
|---|
| [I] | Difficulties of crossing the Great Salt Desert—The trials of
arranging a caravan—The ways of camel-men—A quaint
man of the Desert—A legal agreement—Preparations for
the departure—"Kerman" and "Zeris," my two Persian
kittens and travelling companions—Persian cats—The
start—The charms of camel riding—Marching among
mountains. | [1] |
| [II] | Fifty miles from Kerman—Camels not made for climbing hills—The
Godar Khorassunih Pass—Volcanic formation—Sar-es-iap—A
variegated mountain—A castle—Rock
dwellings—Personal safety—Quaint natives—Women and
their ways—Footgear. | [11] |
| [III] | An abandoned caravanserai—Fantastic hill tops—No water—A
most impressive mountain—Sediments of salt—A dry river
bed—Curious imprints in the rock—A row—Intense heat—Accident
to our supply of eggs—The end of a meeting—Misleading
maps—Haoz Panch—The camel-man's bread—Lawah. | [19] |
| [IV] | Lawah or Rawar—A way to Yezd—The bazaar—Trade—Ruined
forts—Opium smoking and its effects—Beggar's
ingenious device—In a local gentleman's home—The
Tokrajie—Buying fresh provisions—Water skins—An
unhealthy climate—A fight—When fever is contracted—Wolves
in camp—Fever stricken—A third cat purchased. | [27] |
| [V] | Salt sediments as white as snow—Brilliant stars—Plaintive
songs of the camel men—An improvisatore—Unpleasant
odour of camels—A large salt deposit—No water and no
fuel—A device to protect oneself against great heat—Amazing
intelligence of cats—Nature's ways and men's
ways—A hot climb—A brilliantly coloured range—Sea
shells and huge fossils. | [36] |
| [VI] | A long detour—Mount Darband—A water-cut gorge—Abandoned
watch towers—Passes into the desert—A wall-like
mountain range—The tower and fortified caravanserai
at camp Darband—Brackish water—Terrific heat—Compensating
laws of nature better than absurd patents—Weird
rocks—Cairns—Chel-payeh salt well—Loss of half our
supply of fresh water—Camels and men overcome by the
heat. | [44] |
| [VII] | Fortress-like cliffs—A long troublesome march—Sixteen hours
on the saddle—All our fresh-water supply gone!—Fever—Electricity
of the desert—Troublesome camel men—A
small oasis—An ancient battered tower—A giant—Naiband
mountain and village—Rock habitations—A landmark in
the desert. | [53] |
| [VIII] | A visit to the eight-towered village—A hostile demonstration—Quaint
houses—Stoned—Brigand villagers—A device—Peculiar
characteristics of natives—Picturesque features—Constant
intermarriage and its effects—Nature's freaks—Children—Elongating
influence of the desert—Violent
women—Beasts of burden—Photography under difficulty—Admirable
teeth of the natives—Men's weak chests—Clothing—A
farewell demonstration—Fired at. | [60] |
| [IX] | Misfortunes—Suffocating heat—An expected attack—Electricity—Strayed
camels—A barber and his ways—A track
to Meshed—Pilgrim husband and wife across the desert—Another
long march—A salt stream—Brackish well. | [70] |
| [X] | Intense cold—Dulled sense of taste—Characteristics of the
country—Beautiful stones—Clouds of the desert—A salt
stream—Icicles on the moustache and eyelashes—Longing
for sunrise—Prayers of the camel men—Fedeshk—Ali
Murat meets his wife—Opium dens and opium smokers—Effects
of smoking opium in excess—Fever-stricken people—Dwellings—An
official visitor—Science reduced to
practice—Sadek's idea of sunset and sunrise—"Keshk"
cheese—Arrival in Birjand. | [77] |
| [XI] | My caravan disbanded—Birjand—Ruined fortress—The city—Number
of houses—Population—The citadel—Artillery—Trade
routes—Birjand as a strategical position—A
trading centre—No fresh water—The Amir—Indian
pilgrims—Birjand carpets—Industries—A pioneer British
trader—Imports and exports—How business is transacted—Russian
and British goods—Long credit—A picturesque
caravanserai—Afghan soldiers—Beluch camel men. | [90] |
| [XII] | A loud explosion—Persian military officers—Dr. Abbas Ali
Khan, British Agent in Birjand—His excellent work—Gratefulness
of the natives—A quaint letter—The Russian
Agent—A Russian temporary score—More British Consulates
needed—Visits returned—Altitude and temperature
of Birjand—Cossacks and their houses—A bright scene in
a graveyard—Departure of Indian pilgrims for Meshed—British
Consular postal service—Russian post—Making up
a second caravan. | [103] |
| [XIII] | Departure from Birjand—A cloud like a skeleton hand—A
downpour—The village of Muht—A ruined fortress—A
beautiful sunset—A pass—Besieged by native callers—Two
towers at Golandeh—Strayed—Curious pits—Sahlabad—The
impression of a foreign bed—Fujiama's
twin. | [112] |
| [XIV] | Suspicious characters—A trap—Held up—No water—The
haunt of robbers—Fierce daily winds—Volcanic formation—A
crater—Wall-like barriers—A salt stream—A caravan
from Quetta. | [122] |
| [XV] | Sadek's wastefulness—Meeting two enterprising English traders—Another
circular crater—Wind and electricity in the air—Their
effects—A fortress—Soldiers and brigandage—Zemahlabad—Windmills—Bandan—Ancient
tombs—Picturesque
women—Lost our way—A welcome messenger—Nasirabad—"Ruski"
or "Inglis"—Several miles of
villages and houses—English maps and foreign names—Greeted
by Major Benn. | [131] |
| [XVI] | English fancy geographical names—Sher-i-Nasrya—The main
street—The centre of the city—Reverence of the natives
for Major Benn—A splendid type of British official—Indian
and Russian goods—The Shikin Maghut cloth—Steadily
increasing trade of the Nushki route—Khorassan
horses for remounts—Husseinabad—Russian Vice-Consulate—Mr.
Miller—Characteristic windmills—"The wind of
120 days"—Benn Bazaar. | [142] |
| [XVII] | The British Bazaar—The pioneer traders of Sistan—Sistan
a half-way house and not the terminus of the route—Comfortable
route—Protection and redress—Indian tea in
Persia—Persian market overstocked—Enterprise of Indian
tea traders—Which are the markets worth cultivating—Articles
mostly wanted in Sistan and Meshed—Exports—A
problem to be faced—Ways of communication needed to
cities of central Persia. | [151] |
| [XVIII] | Sistan's state of transition—British Consul's tact—Advancing
Russian influence—Safety—A fight between Sistanis and
Afghans—The Sar-tip—Major Benn's pluck and personal
influence—Five Afghans seriously wounded—The city
gates closed—The Customs caravanserai—A British
caravanserai needed—Misstatements—Customs officials—Fair
and just treatment to all—Versatile Major Benn—A
much needed assistant—More Consulates wanted—Excellent
British officials—Telegraph line necessary—A much-talked-of
railway—The salutary effect of a garrison at Robat
frontier post. | [161] |
| [XIX] | The history of the Sistan Vice-Consulate—Major Chevenix
Trench—Laying the foundation of the Consulate—Hoisting
the British flag—Major Benn—A terrible journey—A
plucky Englishwoman—The mud Consulate—Its evolution—The
new buildings—Ka-khanas—Gardening under
difficulties—How horses are kept—The enclosing wall—The
legend of Trenchabad city—The Consulate Mosque—Dr.
Golam Jelami—The hospital—Successful operations—Prevalent
complaints of Sistan—The Sistan Sore. | [171] |
| [XX] | Laid up with fever—Christmas Day—A visit to the Amir—Hashmat-ul-Mulk—An
ancient city over eighty miles long—Extreme
civility of Persian officials—An unusual
compliment—Prisoners—Personal revenge—"An eye for
an eye, a tooth for a tooth"—Punishments and crime—Fines—Bastinado—Disfigurement—Imprisonment—Blowing
criminals from a gun—Strangling and decapitation. | [183] |
| [XXI] | The London of the East—A city eighty-six miles long—The
village of Bunjar—An ancient tower—Iskil—The Kalantar
of Sistan—Collection of ancient jewellery from the buried
city—Interesting objects—A romantic life and tragic death—A
treacherous Afghan—Strained relations between the
Sistan and Afghan Governors—Sand-barchans—Flat roofs
and gable roofs—The pillar of Mil-i-Zaidan—A conical
ice-house—The imposing fort of Zaidan—A neighbouring
modern village. | [194] |
| [XXII] | An ancient city as big as London—The citadel—Towers—Small
rooms—The walls—Immensity of the city—Sand drifts—Why
some parts are buried and some are not—An extensive
wall—Great length of the city—Evidence that the habitations
were continuous—The so-called Rud-i-Nasru—Its position—A
double outer wall—A protected road—Interesting
structures—An immense graveyard—Tombs—Sand drifts
explained—A former gate of the city—The Chil-pir or
tomb of forty saints—Interesting objects found—Beautiful
inscriptions on marble and slate—Marble columns—Graceful
lamps—Exciting digging—A tablet—Heptagonal tower—A
ghastly figure. | [205] |
| [XXIII] | A short historical sketch of Zaidan city—How it was pillaged
and destroyed—Fortresses and citadels—Taimur Lang—Shah
Rukh—Revolutions—The Safavi dynasty—Peshawaran,
Pulki, Deshtak—Sir F. Goldsmid's and Bellew's
impressions—The extent of the Peshawaran ruins—Arabic
inscriptions—A curious ornamentation—Mosques and
mihrab—Tomb of Saiyid Ikbal—The Farah Rud and
Harut Rud—The "Band" of the Halmund—Canals and
channels old and new of the Halmund delta—The Rud-i-Nasru
and the Rud-i-Perian—Strange temporary graves—Ancient
prosperity of Eastern Persia. | [219] |
| [XXIV] | Departure from Sistan—Dadi—Not one's idea of a pasture—The
Kuh-i-Kwajah—Its altitude—The "City of roars of
laughter"—Interesting ascent to the summit—A water
reservoir—Family graves—Dead-houses—A grave with
thirty-eight compartments—The Gandun Piran Ziarat—Scrolls
and inscriptions—Priest's house—Modern graves—Skulls
and their characteristics—A smaller Ziarat—The
Kuk fort—A bird's-eye view of Kala-i-Kakaha city—Strange
legends about the city—Why Kala-i-Kakaha is
famous. | [233] |
| [XXV] | Villages between Sher-i-Nasrya and Kuh-i-Kwajah—The last
of the Kayani—Husena Baba—Thousands of sheep—The
Patang Kuh—Protecting black walls—A marsh—Sand
dunes—Warmal—Quaint terraces—How roofs are built—A
spacious residence built for nine shillings—Facial
characteristics of natives—Bread making—Semi-spherical
sand mounts—Natural protections against the northerly
winds. | [251] |
| [XXVI] | Sand accumulations—A round tower—Mahommed Raza Chah—A
burial ground—Rustam's city—An ancient canal—Rustam's
house—The Persian hero's favourite room—A
store room—Reception hall—The city wall—Where
Rustam's son was impaled—The stable of Rustam's gigantic
horse—More dry canals—An immense graveyard—Sand
and its ways—A probable buried city—A land-mark—Sadek's
ways—A glorious sunset—Girdi—Beluch greeting. | [261] |
| [XXVII] | Girdi-chah, a desolate spot—Its renowned water—Post-houses
and Persian Customs soldiers—Nawar-chah and its well—The
salt river Shela—Its course—Beautiful colours in salt
crystals—Tamarisks—The Kuh-i-Malek-Siah—The loftiest
mountain—Afghans—Hormak, a picturesquely situated
post station—A natural pyramid of rock—Natural fortresses—The
Malek-Siah Ziarat—Where three coveted countries
meet—The hermit—The evolution of a sand hill—Parallel
sand dunes—In Beluchistan—Robat, the most north-easterly
British post. | [277] |
| [XXVIII] | The Lahr Kuh—Robat thana and bungalow—Saïd Khan—Persian
and Beluch music, songs and dancing—Beluch
musical instruments—Beluch melodies, love and war songs—Comic
songs—Beluch voices—Persian melodies—Solo
songs—Ululations—Persian instruments—Castanets—Persian
and Beluch dancing—The chap. | [293] |
| [XXIX] | An excellent track—A quaint rock—A salt rivulet—Laskerisha—Mahommed
Raza-chah—Beluch encampment—The
horrors of photography—Maternal love—A track to
Mirjawa—Kirtaka—Direct track to Sher-i-Nasrya—Track
to Cabul—Sand-hills—A wide river bed—A high yellow
pillar—Undulating track—Ten sharp-pointed peaks. | [307] |
| [XXX] | An excursion into Afghanistan—The salt deposits of God-i-Zirreh—Sand
hills—Curious formation of hill range—Barchans
and how they are formed—Alexander's march
through the country—The water of Godar-i-Chah—Afghans
and their looks. | [316] |
| [XXXI] | Saindak—Beluch prisoners—Thana and Bungalow—Beluch
bread—The Saindak mountain and its mineral resources—The
Daftan volcano—Surmah and lead—Mukak and its
strong man—A sick camel—Gypsum—Regheth—Where
the track will deviate in future—Difficulty in obtaining
drinkable water—Wells made attractive—Sahib chah—A
well ventilated rest-house. | [324] |
| [XXXII] | Sick men and camels—What came of photographing Sahib
Chah—Losing the track—Divided opinions—Allah versus
the compass—Sadek's way of locating positions—Picked up
hungry and thirsty by sensible Mahommed who had come
in search—Curious scenery—Trouble at Mirjawa—Mythical
Perso-Beluch frontier—Gypsum and limestone—Mushki
Chah. | [336] |
| [XXXIII] | Mushki-Chah—A Ziarat—Beluch dwellings—The Beluch and
the camera—Characteristics of Beluch—Three wells of
good water at Kundi—The Kuh-i-Sultan and the "Spear
of the Sultan"—A big Ziarat at Kundi—Nineteen hours
on the saddle—Tretoh—Cold wind—Parallel rows of sand
barchans—Startling effect of mirage—Chah Sandan—Brahui
salutation—Belind Khan and his good points—A
respected officer—Praying at the Ziarat. | [346] |
| [XXXIV] | The picturesque Gat mountain—Strange-looking mountains—Mirui—White
covered country—Sotag—Desolate shed at
Chakal—The Karenghi rirri deadly plant—The Mesjid or
Masit—Their characteristics—The religion of Beluch—Sects—Superstitions—The
symbol of evil—A knife "possessed"—A
Beluch's idea of a filter. | [358] |
| [XXXV] | Captain Webb-Ware, C.I.E.—The Nushki route—An excellent
track—Bungalows built and in course of construction—The
water—Postal service—Important Government concession—The
Nushki route and the railways—Hints to traders—Quaint
official formalities—Pilgrims and their ways—An
amusing incident. | [367] |
| [XXXVI] | The Beluch-Afghan boundary—Substantial advantages obtained—The
Afghans driven from Chagai—Who owns Beluchistan?—How
Beluchistan is subdivided—Treaties and
engagements with the Kahn of Kelat—The Brahui and
Nhauri—When British political connection with Kelat
began—Intrigue—The treaty of 1839—The treaty stolen—Kelat
stormed by the British—A revolution—Protection
of caravans—Treaty of 1841—At the death of Nasir Khan—Boundary
matters settled in 1887—A Brahui rebellion—British
mediation—A state of chaos—The Marris and
Bugtis—Reconciliation of the Sardars with the Khan of
Kelat—Treaty of 1876—British agents at the Khan's court—Railways
and telegraphs—Subsidies—British troops
stationed in the country—Major Sandeman, agent to the
Governor-General—The agreement of 1883—Transfer of
dues and tolls—The chiefship of Kharan—The chief of
Las Bela—Troublesome Marris—British Beluchistan—The
occupants of Zhob. | [376] |
| [XXXVII] | The evolution of Nushki—The Zagar Mengal tribe—Tribal
feuds—Competition in trade—Venturesome caravans—Pasand
Khan—Dalbandin and its geographical situation—Game
big and small—Dates—A famous Ziarat—A Beluch
burial ground—Preparing corpses for interment—How
graves are cut into the ground—Beluch marriages—Beluch
thoughtfulness towards newly married couples—A mark of
respect. | [395] |
| [XXXVIII] | A long march—Karodak—Sandstorm—A salt plain—Yadgar—Padag—Beluch
huts—Fierce wind—Plants—Kuchaki chah—Another
double march—Mall—Two tracks—Peculiar
cracks—A gigantic geological fault—An old Beluch fort—Nushki. | [407] |
| [XXXIX] | A new city—The Bungalow—Numerous Beluch villages—Nomads—Beluch
architecture—Weaving looms—Implements—Beluch
diet—Cave dwellers of Nushki—Beluch
dress—Children—The salaam of the chiefs—An impressive
sight—The Kwajah Mahommed Ziarat—Shah Hussein's
Ziarat and its legend—A convenient geographical site. | [414] |
| [XL] | The fast growing city of Nushki—The Tashil—the Tashildar—Beluch
law—Hospital—Pneumonia and consumption—Lawn
tennis—The Nushki Bazaar—Satisfactory trade
returns—The projected Quetta-Nushki Railway—A great
future for Nushki—An extension to Sistan necessary—Also
a telegraph—Preferable routes for a railway to Sistan—From
Nushki to Kishingi—A curious Mesjid—Mudonek
Ateng Mountain—A fast of twenty-five days—The Chiltan
and Takatu Mts.—The Gurghena tribe—Huts and tents—Beluch
hospitality—Villages. | [425] |
| [XLI] | Morad Khan Kella—The horrors of a camera—Seven high
dunes—Three tracks—Where the railway will be laid—A
fine old tamarisk turned into a Ziarat—Pagoda-like rest-houses—Science
versus comfort—Kanak—Afghan women—The
Kandahar road—How we butcher foreign names—Quetta
and Chaman—The horse fair and Durbar at Sibi—Arrival
in Calcutta—The first mishap—The death of
faithful Lawah—The end. | [436] |
| | [APPENDIX] | [444] |
| | [INDEX] | [447] |