RECOVERING
Rules for recovering can be used only when books do not need to be resewed.
1. Remove cover from the main part of the book.
2. Remove with a dull knife the cloth from the outside and inside of the cover until the two boards are clean, being careful not to cut into the board itself. It is not worth while to remove old paper sides or end papers.
3. Remove superfluous glue, super, etc., from the back. If the book has been overcast, and small strips of leather have been placed over the back, paste the ends of these strips of leather to the end papers. Such a book will also have end papers guarded which will remain as an integral part of the book.
4. If the book has not been overcast, it will be necessary to add end papers. This can be done by using two sheets which when folded once will be the size of the leaves of the book. One of these should be a 60-pound and the other an 80-pound manila paper, both guarded entirely around the fold with jaconet. Whipstitch the 60-pound fly-leaves to the first and last sections of the book, then whipstitch the 80-pound, being careful to pass the needle back through the first section. Paste one of the fly-leaves and one of the end papers together.
If the book has been oversewed, cut the end papers of 80-pound manila or 60-pound kraft paper the size of the book and paste on the entire surface of the fly leaves which are integral parts of the book. It will not be necessary to guard these new end papers.
5. Trim the new fly leaves and end papers the exact size of the book.
6. Mark the boards and book with corresponding numbers so as to identify them.
7. Place boards on the book to within one-eighth of an inch of the back and mark the distance from the back.
8. Measure exactly the distance across the back between marks just made on the end papers.
9. Select the proper cloth with which to cover the book. Place the boards on the cloth, allowing the width necessary for the back as measured in No. 8.
10. Mark around boards on cloth.
11. Cut cloth, allowing approximately an inch and a quarter all around outside edge of the boards.
12. Glue the entire surface of the cloth.
13. Place boards on markings previously made, pressing down firmly on the glued cloth.
14. Put stiff paper, previously cut to the proper size, on the glued cloth between the boards, to prevent the glue from sticking to the back of the book. This should not be done if the book must have a tight back.
15. Turn in the corners as follows: Take the exact corner of the cloth and turn it straight in over the corner of the board. Next turn in the end and then the side. Rub down well with a bone folder.
16. With bone folder, round the corners, and crease the joints at the back.
17. Put the case so formed into a press for a few minutes.
18. Cut a strip of thin, tough muslin or canton flannel one-half inch shorter than the height of the book and wide enough to extend an inch on each side of the book.
19. Glue the back of the book and put on the muslin or canton flannel.
20. Glue the entire surface of the completed case.
21. With the fore edge in the right hand, lay book in its proper place on the right-hand cover, draw up the left-hand cover and lay it on top. Open the book, rub down the end papers well with bone folder, and rub down the back; also crease the joints.
22. Put book in press over night.
23. Letter by hand either with black or white ink as the case demands.