Terra-Cotta.

—Yellow ochre, 100lbs.; Venetian red, 17lbs.; zinc, 25lbs.; whiting, 70lbs.

Maroon or Indian Red.

—Indian red, 100lbs.; Venetian red, 50lbs.; zinc, 25lbs.; whiting, 25lbs.

Light Brown.

—Yellow ochre, 100lbs.; whiting, 70lbs.; mineral brown, 15lbs.; zinc, 25lbs.; Venetian red, 6lbs.

DIPPING PAINTS.

This class of paints is much used in the United States, the article that is to be painted being dipped into the paint so as to save the labour of applying it with a brush in the ordinary manner.

Black Dipping Paint.

—In this case two separate dippings are required, first with the following mixture which acts as a primer. Take 100lbs. of dry ground slate, 100lbs. of whiting, 50lbs. of zinc white, 2 gallons of linseed oil, 20 gallons of gloss oil, and 5 gallons of benzine. These being properly mixed form a priming coat which dries fairly quickly. When dry dip the article into a paint made of the following mixture: 25lbs. of drop black, 312 gallons of grinding japan, half gallon of turpentine, 712 gallons gloss oil, and one gallon of turpentine.

Yellow Dipping Paint.

—A primer is made by grinding together 14lbs. of golden ochre, 112 gallons of grinding japan, 2 gallons of gloss oil, and half gallon of turpentine. The paint is made of 30lbs. of medium chrome yellow, 2 gallons of grinding japan, 112 gallons of turpentine, and 7 gallons of gloss oil. This makes 12 gallons of paint.

Red Dipping Paint.

—Grind together 80lbs. of bright scarlet or Turkey red, 80lbs. best Paris white, 38 gallons gloss oil, 4 gallons of benzine, 2 gallons of linseed oil, and 2 gallons of benzine japan. This makes 50 gallons of paint.

Machinery Dipping Paint.

—Grind together 100lbs. of dry ground slate, 25lbs. zinc white, 1 gallon of linseed oil, 2 gallons of gloss oil, and 1 gallon of japan drier.

Dipping White.

—Grind 100lbs. of zinc white with 90lbs. of Paris white in 2 gallons of linseed oil, 32 gallons of gloss oil, and 11 gallons of benzine. This makes 50 gallons of paint.

The above recipes for dipping paints have been modified from recipes which originally appeared in “Drugs, Oils and Paints,” of Philadelphia.

PAINT FOR IRON.

There has been a very considerable amount of difference of opinion as to the best paint for iron. An elaborate course of experiments were made and the results reported in the columns of the “Engineer” some time since. The results of these experiments showed that no rust whatever resulted from either of the following mixtures, which may therefore be recommended as good paints for iron.

Red Lead Paint.

—Red lead, 88 parts; raw linseed oil, 12 parts.

Cheaper Red Lead Paint.

—Cheaper red lead, 45 parts; barytes, 45 parts; raw linseed oil, 10 parts.

Red Lead Paint, Cheaper Still.

—Very cheap red lead, 22 parts; barytes, 66 parts; raw linseed oil, 12 parts.

Vermilionette Paint.

—Barytes, 33 parts; deep vermilionette, 44 parts; pale vermilionette, 14 parts; raw linseed oil, 7 parts.

Permanent Red Paint.

—Permanent red, 88 parts; raw linseed oil, 7 parts.

PUTTY RECIPES.

Although an ordinary putty is made of dry whiting with raw linseed oil, a modification of this mixture is often necessary and desirable.

Soft Putty.

—One pound of white lead mixed with 10lbs. of whiting and ground with the necessary quantity of boiled linseed oil makes an excellent putty. About half a gill of best olive oil or cotton seed oil added, prevents the white lead from hardening and preserves the putty in a state sufficiently soft to adhere at all times.

Export Putty.

—The above recipe answers for putty that is to be sent abroad, the cotton oil preventing it from going hard. Sometimes the white lead is omitted.

Putty for Exposed Positions.

—A very strong putty is made of boiled oil and whiting and is suitable for exposed positions, such as skylights. It is not adapted for keeping, as it gets too hard. Putty for inside work that is ground in raw linseed oil may be made by adding a little white lead.

Hard Putty.

—Mix dry red lead with boiled oil and turpentine varnish. This may be used immediately, as it soon gets hard.

French Putty.

—Boil 7 parts of linseed oil with four parts of brown umber for two hours. Then add 512 parts of whiting and 11 parts of white lead and mix the whole. This putty is very durable and adheres well to wood.

Imperishable Putty.

—Various recipes for a so-called imperishable putty have been given. The one published above, named French putty, is very durable, but it may be varied by boiling together for two hours 312lbs. of linseed oil and 2lbs. of brown umber. Stir in one ounce of beeswax, take off the fire, and mix 2³⁄4lbs. of whiting and 512lbs. of white lead.

Wood and Glue Putty.

—Dissolve glue in water and add as much very fine sawdust as may be required.


Blackboard Paint.

—Mix 5 oz. of lamp black and 3 oz. of superfine flour of emery in half a gallon of shellac varnish or patent knotting. This gives a fine slating. Shellac varnish may be made by dissolving 1lb. of orange shellac in half a gallon of methylated spirits. Another recipe is: Dissolve 1lb. shellac in one gallon of methylated spirits. When dissolved add 1lb. best ivory black, 5 oz. of best flour of emery. Mix and put in a stoppered bottle, shake well before using. In applying this it must be done rapidly, and only a little of the paint should be poured out at a time, as the spirit rapidly evaporates. In applying it to old blackboards one coat is usually sufficient.

Whitewash for Poultry Houses.

—In order to prevent the breeding of vermin the whitewash used for poultry houses should be mixed with a little gas tar—not coal tar. It may be obtained at any gas works, and should be used in the proportion of about a quarter of a pint to the pailful of ash. To bind the whitewash, flour made into a paste with hot water may be used, and is better than glue size as it does not decay and will not injure the fowls.